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The oppression of 'untouchables' is modern India's shame

Thousands of Indians have found a way of escaping their destiny as an outcast
By Andrew Duke

NOON IN Karimnagar, central India, and already it's over 40 degrees. A
queue of 2000 wedding guests wait patiently in the sun outside a
covered courtyard decorated with lotus flowers and ornate drapes. The
women wear brightly coloured saris and fan themselves as they chat;
the men, clad in sharp, 1970s-cut suits, dab at their foreheads. From
time to time, a VIP is whisked along to the front of the line. I know
these people are important because they have bodyguards, and their
bodyguards are carrying sub-machine guns.

Everyone here knows who these people are, and why this wedding
ceremony is so significant. Before the betrothed marry, they will
undergo a controversial religious conversion and the congregation of
well-wishers, family members, politicians, academics and writers are
here to show their support.

Deekonda Tirupathi and his bride-to-be, Sucharitha, are converting to
Buddhism because they are Dalits, members of society rooted below even
the bottom rung of India's complex hierarchical system. Above them,
four main Hindu classes, or varnas, occupy their own places in life:
the priestly Brahmins; then the ruling class, the Kshatriyas; next are
the Vaishyas, the artisans and traders; then follow the Shudras,
labourers and servants. Those born without varna are seen as
sub-human, or, as they used to be referred to, "untouchable", their
lives restricted to menial jobs and duties deemed impure in Hinduism:
they alone work leather, dispose of dead bodies, handle carcasses,
clear human and animal excrement.

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Our wedding couple are the latest in a long line of Dalits who hope to
rid themselves of the stigma of "untouchability" and be accepted as
equals by adopting a new religion. They follow in the footsteps of one
of the country's greatest thinkers, Bhimrao Ramji Ambedkar, a Dalit
lawyer and scholar who went on to become the main architect of India's
constitution.

Ambedkar's attempts to reform the system in the 1940s and 1950s came
under attack from an unlikely source: Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi -
later Mahatma Gandhi, celebrated peace campaigner, spiritual leader
and father of the nation.

Gandhi's hope of finding a solution to the problem of untouchability
without dividing Hindu society sat at odds with Ambedkar's intention
of direct political action: Ambedkar's demands that Dalits should form
separate electorates were initially accepted by the ruling British but
he was forced to back down after Gandhi began to starve himself to
death in protest.

Ambedkar did, however, manage to ensure that a quota system was
introduced in education, politics, the law and public service before
his disdain for caste-based Hinduism led him to convert to Buddhism in
the late 1950s. "Ambedkar said if a Dalit is to be empowered, the only
true way is to leave Hinduism," Tirupathi tells me. "Since Ambedkar
converted to Buddhism and I follow him, I am leaving Hinduism and
embracing Buddhism."

But for the vast majority of the estimated 180 million Dalits (16% of
India's population), everyday life is about basic survival.

"What can we do?" asks Vimalemma Mari, a widow since 1983. "We have
families to support and no choice of what work we do." I meet Mari as
she starts work in a northern suburb of Hyderabad. Every day, seven
days a week, the 52-year-old mother of six joins an army of women
across India in the unending task of sweeping litter and dust from the
nation's roads. A gangmaster - her boss - circles the neighbourhood on
a motorbike checking all the sweepers are pulling their weight.

A couple of metres beneath Mari's feet, 27-year-old Padma Rao begins
his job of clearing the drains of human waste with his bare hands.
Once the task is complete, his colleagues pull him out. He lets me
take his photograph but, as a friend explains, he doesn't want to talk
to me about his life because he is too embarrassed. He looks at me
apologetically, gulps some fresh air and is lowered into another
drain.

For their efforts, Mari and Padma will be paid around £1 a day.

Discrimination against Dalits, although outlawed, is deeply ingrained.
"In rural areas it is still very dangerous for a Dalit to allow his
shadow to fall across an upper-caste man - it is the biggest crime a
Dalit can commit," says Moses Vattipalli, himself a Dalit. "It results
in very severe punishment, sometimes death. In villages, all Dalits
live together on the east side because the wind flows from the west.
This way, members of the upper caste will not have any wind or sound
coming in from the direction of the Dalits."

Vattipalli, 31, manages a website documenting the problems faced by
Dalits. Much of the site catalogues violence - the beatings, acid
attacks, rapes and murders - as well as day-to-day discrimination. "At
my village school," says Moses, "I was told again and again that I was
a Dalit boy, and so I was unfortunate. In class we would sit
separately and couldn't share anything. Teacher would abuse me and
beat me with sticks - when the upper-caste boys got something wrong, I
got the beating. We weren't allowed to drink in the same place and I
had to bring my own tumbler. I was always angry, always asking, Why
was I born a Dalit' ... thinking it would have been better if I hadn't
been born."

Despite everything, Vattipalli made the most of his education and left
his village to work overseas. But moving away from the rural areas
does not guarantee acceptance. "Discrimination in the city is
different and can be more severe," says Vattipalli, who now lives with
his wife and daughter in Secunderabad. "In the villages you know what
is happening and can be careful; here it is psychologically oppressive
and dehumanising. They always ask your name: they find out you are a
Dalit, then treat you differently."

But that doesn't stop thousands seeking work in the major IT and
industrial centres each year, especially places like Hyderabad,
nicknamed Cyberabad, home to Hitec (Hyderabad Information Technology
Engineering Consultancy) City. Here, confidence in India's future is
reflected in the mirrored buildings housing the likes of General
Electric, Microsoft and Dell. In the shadow of these multinationals,
small shanty towns of itinerant workers have grown up, providing
temporary shelter for those lucky enough to be given work.

Others fall into the trap of bonded labour. A few miles north of
Hyderabad is a settlement unofficially known as Pipe Village. The
encampment consists of discarded pipes beside the factory that
produced them. Inside the pipes live the factory's Dalit workers.
Mostly from rural villages, they were enticed by the prospect of a
job, accommodation and a loan to help with the move. What they got was
a 12-hour day, a pipe to live in and a long-term debt that ensures
they stay put.

According to a 2006 survey by the Hindustan Times, 48% of villages
still deny Dalits access to water, while three-quarters of villages do
not permit Dalits to enter non-Dalit homes. Meanwhile, a third of
public health workers refuse to visit Dalit homes. It's perhaps
unsurprising that the contentious process of religious conversion
appeals.

"Every day thousands of Dalits choose to embrace a new religion," says
Dr Joseph D'souza, international president of the Dalit Freedom
Network. "Dalits are primarily choosing Buddhism or Christianity,
although some have chosen Islam. Changing their religion means they -
and more important, their children - think of themselves differently.
Instead of following holy texts which say they were created only for
one role in life and are of lesser value than others, now they learn
about a creator who made them equal and truly free. This mental change
impacts on their behaviour as they attempt new careers or fight for
dignity by embracing their legal rights."

This growth in confidence has, however, set those with a vested
interest in preserving the status quo on a collision course with
reformers. "Just 7% of the population rules the majority of India,"
says Moses Vattipalli. "When the 93% gain empowerment, the minority
fear they will lose everything."

Realising the threat, the right-wing Bharatiya Janata Party's Hindu
heartlands of Rajasthan, Madhya Pradesh and Tamil Nadu introduced laws
to severely restrict conversions, while others, including the state of
Gujarat, have attempted to reclassify other faiths and bring them into
the fold of Hinduism.

"When the small number of fundamentalist Hindus who want to rule all
India and continue to oppress Dalits saw these conversions to
Buddhism, Sikhism and Jainism, they feared they were losing manpower
and growing weaker," says Vattipalli, himself a convert to
Christianity. "They realised that soon they would become the minority
and said that the other three religions were in fact branches of
Hinduism."

But that assertion met with little sympathy. "The other religions said
no, we are not part of Hinduism so long as there is the caste
system,'" says Vattipalli.

As their strength has increased, Dalit leaders and support groups have
taken their battle further afield to help shift domestic policy.

"The Dalit movement is at a turning point in history," says D'souza.
"Most Westerners have never heard of Ambedkar, Phule, or Periyar, who
were great Dalit leaders and writers. But since 2000, influential
bodies such as the United Nations, the US Congress, the UK parliament
have issued statements condemning caste discrimination. We are gaining
momentum. We are gaining recognition that caste is similar to
apartheid and deserves the involvement of the international
community."

Unsurprisingly, the talk over lunch at the wedding in Karimnagar is
dominated by the topic of change. But any transition from such deeply
entrenched positions may prove painful. If the caste system were to be
abolished folowing next year's crucial elections then, according to
Vattipalli: "There may be clashes with Hindu fundamentalists because
the Hindu scriptures are everything for them."

His words seem to be have been born out after recent conflict in the
states of Orissa, Karnataka, Tamil Nadu, Kerala and Madhya Pradesh.
Trouble in Orissa alone left 13,000 people without homes when
Anti-Christian violence flared up after local Hindus accused Christian
Dalits of murdering a controversial holy man. Claims of forced
conversions were also levelled at the Christians. (Both allegations
have been vehemently denied). During the most recent clashes, one
Christian woman was left dead and scores of others were injured.

So far the outbreaks have been relatively contained, given the size
and population of the country, but Moses Vattipalli fears that Dalit
empowerment may prompt reprisals.

"Dalits will be angry because of injustices and oppression spread over
the last 3000 years," he warns. "There could be bloodshed, even civil
war."

But Dalit campaigner D'souza takes a different view. "Of course, any
group of people that has been oppressed for thousands of years is
tempted to take revenge, but I'm confident that Dalit leaders will
follow the example of Gandhi and, even more so, BR Ambedkar," he says.
"They will respond with a firm but peaceful defence of their rights
and human dignity."

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