Dave Green:
I am not a plant pathologist, but with so few apples to treat, I
would try physical exclusion.
Can you keep the moisture from the fruits by enclosing them
individually in a plastic bag?
It may be too late if infection has already initiated, but what do
you have to loose if you try
it on a few apples? Maybe Tyvek, or some other "breathable" material
would be better than
plastic.
David Kollas
Kollas Orchard
Tolland, CT
On Aug 19, 2010, at 8:15 PM, Dave and Janice Green wrote:
I am experimenting with low-chill apples at my home in coastal
South Carolina, and have felt that these had some possiblities. I
know I'm stretching the limits of apple range, but I love my apples.
The oldest tree, a Pink Lady semi-dwarf, is loaded with apples this
year. After some tree training last year, it blossomed well this
spring and I got good pollination. I did some hand thinning,
probably not enough.
I've not felt it necessary to spray - no insect damage on the
fruit, and minimal insect damage on the leaves. The fruit has sized
up nicely, and other than cosmetic green spots on the skins (which
I can live with), I had reason to expect a couple bushels of fruit
from this tree.
It is just starting to show color. However many of the fruits are
getting a lesion, which turns into a rot spot very quickly and
spreads throughout the apple within 3-4 days. I can see my
anticipated crop evaporating...
I did some Internet searching, and find the symptoms are very
similar to those described at http://orgprints.org/13668/ on
organic fruit in Europe. So I wonder if it could be Diplodia
seriata causing my problem as well.
While the description fits, there was little remedy suggested for
the problem.
Is it too late to save the remainder with a fungicide? What
material would I use?
Weather has been mid-90's, occasionally 100, high humidity, with
quick and heavy showers once or twice a week.
There are some other questions I'd like to run by the experts, but
this one is urgent...
Dave Green
Retired beekeeper/horticultural junkie
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