The BMW UUC Digest 
Volume 2 : Issue 771 : "text" Format

Messages in this Issue:
  Re: BMW Certified Question
  E36 questions  / track car questions
  Re: E36 questions  / track car questions
  Re: E36 questions / track car questions
  Re: E36 questions  / track car questions
  Costco towels.
  Re: BMW Independent Repair on the SF Peninsula
  Re: BMW Independent Repair on the SF Peninsula
  Re: Costco towels
  Re: Track car options
  Re: Track car options
  Re: Track car options
  Re: Track car options

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 23:14:34 -0400
From: Brian Daley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
Subject: Re: BMW Certified Question
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Rich,
Given the smiley I'm going to assume that was meant to be read with a 
joking tone and respond accordingly.   No, I didn't charge my mother for 
the work.  My usual rate for plumbing, electrical work, landscaping, 
painting, etc. is mom's home cooking.  I guess it sounded bad the way I 
worded it.  Perhaps it would have sounded better if I had phrased it 
this way: "I'm not in a position to buy $800 of parts for her so while 
she was writing me a check for the parts she offered to share some of 
the savings with me and still saved $1000."  Considering I saved her at 
least $1300 and spent an entire weekend working on her car I was 
inclined to accept.   She knows what it would have cost to have the 
dealer do the work and she asked what I thought was fair so I came up 
with a number, thus "fair compensation for my time."  I was trying to 
point out that the $1000 savings wasn't because she was paying nothing 
for parts or labor.   She paid for the parts, and gave me something for 
my labor and still came out $1000 ahead.
You could try charging your wife for fixing her car, but if your 
marriage is typical whatever she paid you would still be *her* money 
after she gave it to you...
:-)

Brian


Rich Dorffer wrote:

>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Brian Daley
>>
>><snipped>
>>It's not just BMW dealers either.  I just saved my mother almost
>>$1000 on a brake job and new struts on her Toyota by buying the
>>parts and doing the work myself.  That's her net savings after I
>>took fair compensation for my time, and also includes a number of
>>parts the dealer would not have replaced at the estimated price
>>I'm basing her savings on.
>>    
>>
>
>Wow, you charge your mom for work down on her car? Did she charge you for
>giving birth to you?!?
>
>:-)
>
>I need to start charging for more of my work... I have a bunch of stuff
>planned for my wife's Accord...hey honey...break out your checkbook...
>
>Later,
>
>Rich
>  
>



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 23:22:22 -0500
From: "Matt Evans" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com>
Subject: E36 questions  / track car questions
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I want a budget track car.

I've been tracking my E28 M5 at HPDEs and have really really enjoyed it.  I
am at the point with this vehicle that I am not going to get any faster
without sticky tires or negative front camber, and I've started buying
budget tires and slowing down so I'm not evaporating street tires in a
weekend.  Finally, I do not want to start looking for additional 10ths on a
rare car that I happen to dearly love.

So, I've been looking at a wide variety of things, and recently an E36 325i
auto sedan became available.

However, this particular model is a 92, so it has a non-vanos motor.  I see
that the majority of engine upgrades for M50 cars are for vanos engines.  Is
that accurate?  Can I put a vanos cam in a non-vanos engine ?

My understanding is that auto->manual swaps are not especially tricky on the
E36, and in fact might be a good starting point since you get a faster rear
end.  No ECU / coding changes are necessary, correct ?

When I say budget, I really, really mean it.  This particular e36 sedan has
an asking price of $2800 and it runs and all that stuff.  That's on the high
side of my budget for car acquisition, since I know that eventually I'll
replace the seats, the brakes, all suspension components, all rubber
components, etc, so I don't want to pay for good examples of any of those
things - I just want the car safe enough to drive home for me to make a
proper assessment of it while I have it stripped/gutted.

Some very smart people are going to tell me "just buy an already built track
car.  It's cheaper"

Yeah.  I know.  My wife has said "I understand it will be more money in the
long run, but I'm ok with that.. As long as the initial cost is low and the
incremental costs are moderate and can be spaced out"

What I am ideally after is something that is lighter than E28 M5, $1000 or
less, runs under its own power, has good glass and structural metal, and is
based on a platform where new bodyshells are easy to come by (so when I
stuff the thing, I move the go fast bits that survived over to a new roller
and keep driving).  It has to be RWD and I really, really want it to be a
bmw but I'd bend on that if I had to :)

Bonus - the car easily slots into club racing or SCCA or NASA or something
along those lines a few years from now.

Any thoughts on my ramble?

Thanks,
Matt








------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2005 05:14:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Matt Evans <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
Subject: Re: E36 questions  / track car questions
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

--- Matt Evans <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Any thoughts on my ramble?

Jay H. posted a '93 325is that needs nothing to be a daily driver/track
car and it was $4,900.  You really can't get much cheaper than that
unless you go E30 and then you end up putting in so much money on
maintenance that again it goes beyond the $5K mark.

I'm sure a cheap ($2800) E36 is going to cost you more than the $5K
once you replace everything that it'll need to make it track worthy.

Carlos.


                
____________________________________________________
Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page 
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs 
 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2005 10:30:06 -0400
From: "Ken Arutunian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
Subject: Re: E36 questions / track car questions
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Matt, I went around and around with this same issue recently. IMHO, the 
closer you are to a "rolling chassis" type car...the more you end up 
spending!!! It would pay you to search for a car that already has Bilsteins 
as an example...since they can be valved and utilize the springs of your 
choice. IIRC, I think you can send the struts/shocks to Bilstein and for $50 
per unit they will valve to spec! Try to find a car that someone has already 
set up to run at the track. Chances are, they've done the bushings, sways 
and other things to make the car track worthy. It might not be a front 
runner in the beginning, but that's what setting up a budget is all about.
Jon Siccardi took the time to talk to me about the pros and cons of building 
a ready made racer vs. building a custom racer. The conclusion that I made 
is that there are things you want and things you might not necessarily want 
on cars that have been *fully* prepped for track usage. One main 
consideration is the rollcage! That is a big time expense and you want it 
done right the FIRST time. So, when you purchase a ready made racer...you 
might end up spending money for things you didn't want or need to further 
improve.
Back to the initial purchase,  I would humbly recommend that you purchase as 
much car as you can possibly afford. Spend a lot of fricken money on a cage 
so when you do *ball it up* your safety is not compromised!!! Your chasis is 
really not meant to be a "disposable" item. I hope that makes some sense.
Here's what I did to start the process of building a D-Mod club racer. I 
considered the e30 vs e36. Decided I'd build the e36. Then did a comparison 
of the 93-95 325is vs. '95 M3 vs. '96-97 328is.
I decided to spend more money up front for the e36m3...why???? Well, the car 
has takeoffs that can help recoup some money spent in acquiring the car. By 
the time I spent money for the 325 or 328...I'd end up having the same money 
or more to get the car up to M3 specs! So, I now have a car that gives me 
some options to sell parts and reduce my cost. The engine is worth quite a 
bit of money. I've not decided if I will detune the 3.0 to get me to the 
2980cc limitation of D-Mod or sell the 3.0 and purchase and build a 2.8. I'm 
trying to do a cost comparison on that process as well. My budget for 
acquiring a car went from spending as little up front as I possibly could 
(2000-4500), I ended up spending $8000 for a '95 M3! But again, I think I've 
got at least $4000 in take offs (including selling the engine)...which gives 
me a really good chassis from which to build a race car. The aesthetics were 
very important to me...the M3 fits that bill. Well, I'm sure I'm leaving off 
a lot to consider. But, hopefully I have helped shed a little light on this 
process. Oh yeah, auto tranny conversions can get quite costly. Find a car 
with a manual trans!
Good luck in your quest!

Ken Arutunian

>From: "Matt Evans" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com>
>Subject: [UUC]  E36 questions  / track car questions
>Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 23:22:22 -0500
>
>I want a budget track car.
>
>I've been tracking my E28 M5 at HPDEs and have really really enjoyed it.  I
>am at the point with this vehicle that I am not going to get any faster
>without sticky tires or negative front camber, and I've started buying
>budget tires and slowing down so I'm not evaporating street tires in a
>weekend.  Finally, I do not want to start looking for additional 10ths on a
>rare car that I happen to dearly love.
>
>So, I've been looking at a wide variety of things, and recently an E36 325i
>auto sedan became available.
>
>SNIP
>
>
>
>
>
>Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
>
>
>__________________________________________________________________________
>In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
>UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
>Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
>908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com

_________________________________________________________________
Don’t just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search! 
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2005 10:12:26 -0700
From: Brian Ghidinelli <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Matt Evans <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
Subject: Re: E36 questions  / track car questions
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


Matt Evans wrote:
> What I am ideally after is something that is lighter than E28 M5, $1000 or
> less, runs under its own power, has good glass and structural metal, and is
> based on a platform where new bodyshells are easy to come by (so when I
> stuff the thing, I move the go fast bits that survived over to a new roller
> and keep driving).  It has to be RWD and I really, really want it to be a
> bmw but I'd bend on that if I had to :)
> 
> Bonus - the car easily slots into club racing or SCCA or NASA or something
> along those lines a few years from now.

Spec E30 or Spec Miata.  Not as fast as an ///M car but cheaper to 
acquire and run.  Plus, having other drivers in similarly prepared cars 
gives you a wealth of available feedback on how you as a driver are 
doing when you're hunting for 10ths.  Both can be built in stages over 
time for (relatively speaking) not much money.

Cheers,


Brian

-- 
Brian Ghidinelli   >   http://www.MotorsportReg.com

MotorsportReg.com processes online registration and
payment for your track, autocross and social events


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2005 07:57:21 -0400
From: "Richard Sperry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com>
Subject: Costco towels.
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I would only use them for cleaning windows. There is a very big difference 
in microfiber towels. The ones from Costco will leave a lot of scratchs on 
your paint. I detail, and KNOW. 


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2005 06:40:47 -0700
From: Brad Houser <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "'test'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "'Raza Uddin'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
Subject: Re: BMW Independent Repair on the SF Peninsula
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Anyone been to Ray's Ultimate in Santa Clara? It is near work, and if he is
good, I will try him.

Brad H
 


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2005 09:58:29 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
Subject: Re: BMW Independent Repair on the SF Peninsula
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I'll second Joe's recommendation and add that Ramone at Bavarian
Motorsports is very knowledgeable about every model and can handle any
repair or upgrade work as far as I can tell. He's also a great supporter of
the Club's local events and autocrosses a 750iL.

Also, TC Design is just around the corner and fun to see what's happening
there and daydream.

-Kevin
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2005 07:41:29 -0700
From: "T WALROD" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "bmw digest" <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com>
Subject: Re: Costco towels
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Broken record here - found a new use for them as drying cloths.  They absorb 
an amazing amount of water after I squeegee the cars.  No contest with 
cotton towels or chamois I have used.  Apartment cleaner is singing their 
praises for wall, window, and bathroom cleaning (share them w/ your wife or 
use them yerself).  I've been passing them out to friends and relatives - at 
$8/20 buy them before Costco discontinues them.  I bought an extra batch to 
stick with my Y2K MREs - bet I use the rags first.
Tom (bought a frontally challenged '89 325iC for no good reason) 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2005 10:35:19 -0500
From: "Marc Plante" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
Subject: Re: Track car options
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Don't buy an auto for track use. You'll hate yourself in the morning...

Another Data Point

I sold my 1993 E36 325i with 220k on it last June for $3500.  The car had a 
very clean interior (I had the driver's seat out for the last 4 yrs replaced by 
a recaro SRD), a VERY clean body w/M3 nose, New brakes, BLSS w/ERC, new wheel 
bearings, control arms, radiator, preventative clutch at 140k (throwout bearing 
was tired though functional.  Pressure plate was fine). a Koni H&R OE 
suspension a B&B triflow exhaust, and I left in a set of aftermarket a/d/s 
front speakers and stealthboxes driven by an Eclipse 4 ch amp ( got too lazy to 
put the stock bits back in...stooopid!). 

I was asking $4k for the car with BBS RZ wheels in very good shape and sold it 
for $3500 w/o wheels (buyer supplied his own.

The car had a very small headgasket leak (not even fluid on the garage floor), 
and I figured it would be needing reasonably significant engine work given the 
miles on the motor (I'm an NCC instructor, and the car had 65 track days and 
some auto-X usage.  It sold to an employee of Bimmerworld. 

James at Bimmerworld heard a little bit of a tick on the motor and dropped in a 
new one (race teams can do that).  Turns out, a slight miss shift some time in 
the car's life had kissed one of the valves, leaving it a little noisy.  Short 
of a race team that could just drop in a motor, someone bying my car would have 
had to do a head gasket and valve job to get the car solid for the track.

Overall, I'd budget $5k-7k to buy and update something track worthy.  More if 
you want to be "competitive."  LOTS more if you want to race (that's an 
exponential equation, I believe).  Your dollars will go further with an E30 
than an E36, though the E36 is more car.  

Your decision also depends on your track ego.   Are you going to be OK working 
hard to keep up with E36M3s in DEs? or do you want more power to keep up more 
readily?  E30s and E36 2.5s will keep up in most instances (short of the Glen 
which is very wide-open) , though they need to be fairly modified or 
aggressively driven to keep up.

Also realize that as you work your way up the food chain,  Not only purchase 
price, but replacement parts cost a lot more.  I got rotors for my 325 for 
about $40 Ea, the floating rotors for the M3s cost double that + (I believe. 
I'm still on my first set of rotors).  brake pads, tires, all consumables tend 
to cost more.

Finally, if you plan to commute to tracks and don't want to trailer, a 4 DR E36 
gives you a lot of hauling capacity, and you can get the tires in the back seat 
very easily.  I was able to go on road trips to CAN from VA with my 325, 
hauling everything in the car. An E30 won't be that accomodating.  (Yeah, 
Woody, I know...it CAN be done).

There are lots of other points that people will raise. 

HTH,

Marc Plante
1997 E36 M3/4 66k
2005 "Child" (on order)
Vienna, VA


> --- Matt Evans <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > Any thoughts on my ramble?
> 



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2005 08:39:23 -0700
From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com>
Subject: Re: Track car options
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

buy an old beater truck and a shifter kart.

Marco
that's what I would do knowing what I know now ;-)

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Marc Plante
Sent: Thursday, August 11, 2005 8:35 AM
To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
Subject: Re: [UUC] Track car options


Don't buy an auto for track use. You'll hate yourself in the morning...

Another Data Point

I sold my 1993 E36 325i with 220k on it last June for $3500.  The car had a
very clean interior (I had the driver's seat out for the last 4 yrs replaced
by a recaro SRD), a VERY clean body w/M3 nose, New brakes, BLSS w/ERC, new
wheel bearings, control arms, radiator, preventative clutch at 140k
(throwout bearing was tired though functional.  Pressure plate was fine). a
Koni H&R OE suspension a B&B triflow exhaust, and I left in a set of
aftermarket a/d/s front speakers and stealthboxes driven by an Eclipse 4 ch
amp ( got too lazy to put the stock bits back in...stooopid!).

I was asking $4k for the car with BBS RZ wheels in very good shape and sold
it for $3500 w/o wheels (buyer supplied his own.

The car had a very small headgasket leak (not even fluid on the garage
floor), and I figured it would be needing reasonably significant engine work
given the miles on the motor (I'm an NCC instructor, and the car had 65
track days and some auto-X usage.  It sold to an employee of Bimmerworld.

James at Bimmerworld heard a little bit of a tick on the motor and dropped
in a new one (race teams can do that).  Turns out, a slight miss shift some
time in the car's life had kissed one of the valves, leaving it a little
noisy.  Short of a race team that could just drop in a motor, someone bying
my car would have had to do a head gasket and valve job to get the car solid
for the track.

Overall, I'd budget $5k-7k to buy and update something track worthy.  More
if you want to be "competitive."  LOTS more if you want to race (that's an
exponential equation, I believe).  Your dollars will go further with an E30
than an E36, though the E36 is more car.

Your decision also depends on your track ego.   Are you going to be OK
working hard to keep up with E36M3s in DEs? or do you want more power to
keep up more readily?  E30s and E36 2.5s will keep up in most instances
(short of the Glen which is very wide-open) , though they need to be fairly
modified or aggressively driven to keep up.

Also realize that as you work your way up the food chain,  Not only purchase
price, but replacement parts cost a lot more.  I got rotors for my 325 for
about $40 Ea, the floating rotors for the M3s cost double that + (I believe.
I'm still on my first set of rotors).  brake pads, tires, all consumables
tend to cost more.

Finally, if you plan to commute to tracks and don't want to trailer, a 4 DR
E36 gives you a lot of hauling capacity, and you can get the tires in the
back seat very easily.  I was able to go on road trips to CAN from VA with
my 325, hauling everything in the car. An E30 won't be that accomodating.
(Yeah, Woody, I know...it CAN be done).

There are lots of other points that people will raise.

HTH,

Marc Plante
1997 E36 M3/4 66k
2005 "Child" (on order)
Vienna, VA


> --- Matt Evans <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > Any thoughts on my ramble?
>


Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com


__________________________________________________________________________
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.

UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2005 11:46:07 -0400
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com>
Subject: Re: Track car options
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

With a 5x8 trailer, you don't even need the truck, or a garage.  An E30 can 
tow a shifter kart in its trailer anywhere you want to go.

Gary [broken record] Derian



> buy an old beater truck and a shifter kart.
>
> Marco
> that's what I would do knowing what I know now ;-)


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2005 08:53:07 -0700
From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com>
Subject: Re: Track car options
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

true - but I like beater trucks ;-)

Marco

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Gary Derian
Sent: Thursday, August 11, 2005 8:46 AM
To: Marco Romani; bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
Subject: Re: [UUC] Track car options


With a 5x8 trailer, you don't even need the truck, or a garage.  An E30 can
tow a shifter kart in its trailer anywhere you want to go.

Gary [broken record] Derian



> buy an old beater truck and a shifter kart.
>
> Marco
> that's what I would do knowing what I know now ;-)

Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com


__________________________________________________________________________
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.

UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com


------------------------------

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