The BMW UUC Digest Volume 4 : Issue 164 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: [E30] half axle replacement Re: [E30] half axle replacement
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2008 19:07:03 -0500 From: Clarence <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com> Subject: [E30] half axle replacement Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> '87 325is w/260+k miles needs outer CV joint. After looking at what replacement entails and considering the miles, I'm thinking replacing the whole assembly may be the better route. Questions: removal requires removing the axle nut and getting the shaft out. Does this require anything special? Is removing the nut normally a struggle or will it typically loosen with a standard breaker bar? Once the nut is off, will the axle typically push out or does it normally need extra persuasion? My other higher miler is getting lots of professional care right now and I'm trying to save a few dollars. TIA Clarence West Bend, Wi ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2008 11:16:02 -0700 (PDT) From: Tammer Farid <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: [E30] half axle replacement Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Just did rear wheel bearings on my E36 yesterday. Rear axle nut is tightened to ~180 lb-ft, so get a meaty breaker bar and some pipe. Don't forget to push back the stakes on the nut before you loosen it. If you clean the visible threads beforehand, it should thread off easily once loosened. Once I dropped the drive axle-to-diff bolts and loosened the axle nut, I had to pound the crap out of it to get it out. I used a big, round, solid aluminum bar as a drift (brass is probably better, but aluminum was on hand in friend's garage). A heavy wooden dowel would work as well. Once out, I cleaned the splines (inside of hub and on the axle) well and it went back in fairly easily without lube. Just get enough threads through to start the nut, then draw it in gently. I used the old nut to pull the axle in, then took it off and installed the new one. Replace the nut. For an E30, you might want to have new bolts for the diff connection as well; those old internal-hex bolts are really easy to round out (I have an E28, so ask how I learned this). Finally, do the final torque with the car on the ground, then jack it back up, pull off the wheel, stake the new nut, and reinstall wheel. A big aZZ torque wrench is your friend, if you have one available. I borrowed one. -tammer E36 325i track rat, new bearings E28 535is c900t, the ugliest car ever --- Clarence <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > '87 325is w/260+k miles needs outer CV joint. After > looking at what > replacement entails and considering the miles, I'm > thinking replacing > the whole assembly may be the better route. > > Questions: removal requires removing the axle nut and > getting the shaft > out. Does this require anything special? Is removing > the nut normally > a struggle or will it typically loosen with a standard > breaker bar? > Once the nut is off, will the axle typically push out or > does it > normally need extra persuasion? > > My other higher miler is getting lots of professional > care right now and > I'm trying to save a few dollars. > > TIA > > Clarence > West Bend, Wi > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder > of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of > the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(2 messages) **********
