Please continue to keep this one live on the reflector as I am also having
problems with mine and will use your findings to help me.

Bill

K9YEQ

K2-#35

KX1-#35

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of James Kern
Sent: Friday, August 26, 2005 10:09 AM
To: 'tom.w3qs'
Cc: 'Elecraft'
Subject: RE: RE: [Elecraft] KIO2 not working

Tom,
    Here at work I tried the cable with and without the jumper - no
difference. 

    I confirmed the 5th step on page 11. It is indeed set for U8-4 instead
of U6-25. 

    I also tried it here at work on another machine. It's a pIII something
or other. It's a desktop PC. It has two serial ports. I verified all the
port setings in device manager matches what is called for in the manual - no
dice. We use this machine all the time to connect hyperterminal to routers
and such, so I know the port is good. 

   I double checked the voltages on the KIO2 and everything looks as it
should... I'm pretty confused.. 

James Kern KB2FCV

-----Original Message-----
From: tom.w3qs [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Friday, August 26, 2005 11:02 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: RE: [Elecraft] KIO2 not working


Well James,

About the jumper, I doubt if it's your problem.  I put the jumper in and
have tried several programs and have no issues with it.  I don't, however,
key the transmitter from the keyboard.  Of course you could always lift one
side and check.  

You should also confirm that the 5th step on page 11 results in seeing U8-4
instead of U6-25.  Somehow mine got switched back to U6-25 and nothing
worked until I changed it back. 

At this point, I would definitely suspect your laptop.  How old is it?  The
last laptop I bought in 1999 didn't have a serial port.  Are you using a USB
emulator?

Tom

-----Original Message-----
From: James Kern [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Friday, August 26, 2005 8:53 AM
To: 'tom.w3qs'
Cc: 'Elecraft'
Subject: RE: RE: [Elecraft] KIO2 not working

Yeah everything at least appears to be ok on the K2. The voltages seem to
line up relatively close. I'm not sure if pin 2 of J1 is supposed to change
from -9 volts to +13 volts when anything is changed on the k2 (frequency,
mode, etc).. But it appears to be doing something. 

My only bit of confusion is whether having the jumper on pin 7 & 8 of the PC
side serial cable connector has anything to do with my problem?

James Kern
Network Administrator
Kurt S. Adler, Inc.
1107 Broadway
New York, NY 10010
212-924-0900 x222 (work)
212-807-0575 (fax)
908-451-6801 (cell)
800-209-7438 (pager)
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


-----Original Message-----
From: tom.w3qs [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, August 26, 2005 7:36 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: RE: [Elecraft] KIO2 not working


Hi James,

If everything on the K2 side is OK and you wired up the serial cable
correctly, the problem pretty much has to be in your laptop.

First, check Device Manager to see if you have any COM ports listed (it's
not enough to just have a physical serial connector on the laptop).  While
you are there, if any are listed, make a note of the numbers - probably 1.
Then in the set up for whatever program you are using, make sure that that
number is selected.

Hope the simple approach works.

Tom, W3QS  

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2005 11:11 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: 'Elecraft'
Subject: Re: RE: [Elecraft] KIO2 not working

Alright, 
   I got the choke installed and I now get voltage out to the pins. I still
cannot connect with my laptop, but I'm going to bring the K2 into work
tommorrow. The voltages I get on J1 are as follows:

Pin 1: 0
Pin 2: -9.96 or 13.68 (It changes as I move the dial or change anything on
the K2) Pin 3: .01 Pin 4: 5.59 Pin 5: 0 Pin 6: 5.71 Pin 7: 0.01 Pin 8: 14.24
Pin 9: 8.07

I had a 14V Supply in the K2 and had nothing connected to the J1. I can
still hear the oscillation at 16.292 mhz.

I did install the jumper between pins 7 and 8 on the PC side of the serial
connector if that makes any difference. Do I have to change anything on the
computer for that? I see this choice was optional..

Thanks,

James KB2FCV

----- Original Message -----
From: James Kern <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Thursday, August 25, 2005 3:42 pm
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KIO2 not working

> Well the replacement choke arrived here at the office today. I'll post 
> an update when I get home tonight (The soldering iron will be warming 
> up the second I walk through the door!.. Alright.. Well, after I say 
> hello to my
> wife!)
> 
> James Kern
> Network Administrator
> Kurt S. Adler, Inc.
> 1107 Broadway
> New York, NY 10010
> 212-924-0900 x222 (work)
> 212-807-0575 (fax)
> 908-451-6801 (cell)
> 800-209-7438 (pager)
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tom Hammond [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Thursday, August 18, 2005 7:28 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KIO2 not working
> 
> 
> James:
> 
> If you want, and are really 'antsy', you can temporarily replace L2
> with a jumper and continue with your testing. Just remember to REPLACE 
> it when the new RFC arrives.
> 
> When you install the new RFC... bend it's leads with your fingers and 
> solder it in place quickly... 2-3 seconds, max.
> 
> 73,
> 
> Tom   N0SS
> 
> At 08:29 PM 8/17/2005, you wrote:
> >Wow you guys are good! Heh, can't believe I missed that, but then
> again
> >I build better than I diagnose! It was L2. No continuity at all.
> I
> >checked the other inductors and they are fine. I called up
> Elecraft and
> >tommorrow they will be sending a new one (or two) in the mail. 
> >Hopefully that will solve the problem as everything else voltage-
> wise
> >checks out as it should. Thanks to all and I will update when I
> get the
> >replacement part installed. 73,
> >
> >James KB2FCV
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: Jack Brindle <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Date: Wednesday, August 17, 2005 12:38 pm
> >Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KIO2 not working
> >
> > > I agree with Don's analysis. Everything looks good around the
> > > MAX1406 transceiver. Since you have -9 volts or so at the
> output
> > > (pin 5), and
> > > zero on the pin it feeds, there must be something amiss in
> between.> >
> > > The small inductors are easy to break - this might be the
> problem,
> > > as could be missing or 'bad' solder joints on either side of the 
> > > inductor or at J1 pin 2 itself. Use a VOM or ZDVM to make sure
> that> >
> > > L2 has continuity (might as well check L3 and L4 at the same
> time),> >
> > > then recheck the solder joints. If the inductor is bad, I'm
> sure
> > > Scott will be happy to get you going with a good one...
> > >
> > > Good luck!
> > >
> > > - Jack Brindle, W6FB
> > > ---------------------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > > ----
> > > ---------------------
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
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