While some in this forum marvel at the way things go together in this radio, I 
was not pleased with the standoff situation.  Using screws to attach standoffs 
in later to be inaccessible locations, and adjusting standoff lengths with 
stacks of washers is acceptable in a homebrew or prototype radio, but I think 
that in a production piece they should be of the correct length and permanently 
staked into place.

Flame away.

Wes  N7WS

--- On Wed, 12/30/09, Brett Howard <br...@livecomputers.com> wrote:

From: Brett Howard <br...@livecomputers.com>
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Bottom Front Panel Issues
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Cc: pa...@elecraft.net
Date: Wednesday, December 30, 2009, 3:29 AM

Ok I know I need to buy new screwdrivers.  I'm in the process of buying
a set of Whia drivers.  I feel that the driver I've been using fits
fairly well but the Whia set I have at work seem to fit a little
better.  

Anyway I'm starting to have issues with my bottom front panel after
getting into this radio as many times as I have...  After the DVR, the
audio low pass filter, several additions of filters, the sub RX, and
every mod on the website (except for the resistor change for the P3)
I'll be doing it when the P3 arrives...

Anyway the center most screw position was the one giving me the most
fits before.  This wasn't near as big of an issue when I didn't have the
sub receiver.  But now that I have that piece in place being able to put
a screwdriver on the top side has become much more work intensive. 

I've also tried using lock-tite to hold the standoffs onto the screws
from the board side so that Its very easy to remove the screws from the
bottom and I figured if I ever had to replace the RF board that
replacing a few standoffs at the same time would be easy...

Anyway I've cammed out of some of the flat head screws ever so slightly
here and there and Elecraft graciously provided me with a few
replacements to get rid of the ones that were starting to look bad.  But
this other issue is starting to get really quite ugly.

I've gotten to the point where I no longer want to even try opening it
because of how far I have too take it apart because of these issues.  I
got an FM filter for Xmas and because the left front screw and the
center most screw wouldn't come out of the bottom I ended up having to
pull the front panel and the sub RX in order to install a filter.
(granted the Sub RX had to come out partially to get the filter in place
but had to come out all the way for the other work).  

Anyway I think I'd like to replace some of these parts with new ones as
the excessive use and attempts with lock-tite have been less than
successful.  I'm wondering if I should try to make up a BOM of what I
need from the Elecraft manual (using elecraft part numbers of course)
and then place an order or if I should just head to my parts catalog
house and try there.  

Finally my last question quite concerns me....  I've noted that from
several applications on and off that the board has gotten scratched here
and there around the screw holes.  Being that these are commonly ground
points I'm quite worried that I'm not getting the grounding that I
should...  Just after installing the FM filter I noted that when I plug
my mic into the front panel that I get about a .5S unit drop in noise
level when the mic is plugged in.  Granted I think this is the first
time I've even listened to the radio w/ the mic unplugged (even though I
rarely ever use it)...  But this makes me wonder what may be up here....
FWIW I have put shorting wires around the L's in the back for the
"Improving the immunity of the Rear-Panel RS232 and Audio Connectors to
RF" modification.  

I greatly appreciate any advice.  Sorry for asking these questions in
this format with so much unfounded fear but I ask as I don't really have
the time to do a lot of trial an error and documentation/testing like
I'd like in order to make the right decision.  I kinda figure that those
with many of these around would be able to much more quickly answer to
questions such as what happens if some of those ground connections are
less than optimal...  If all else fails and the compromised grounds
causes issue I think with some exacto and copper tape work I can make
those areas very robust to lock washers.

Greatly appreciated gentlemen.

~Brett (KC7OTG)  

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