EV Digest 5347
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Episode 77: Battery-Powered Dragster on Monster Garage Tonight!
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: [solectria_ev] A Force broken in San Francisco Back on the Road
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) RE: Charging Dead Flat AGMs
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: [solectria_ev] A Force broken in San Francisco Back on the Road
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Charging Dead Flat AGMs
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
6) towing....an EV
by Seth Rothenberg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: [solectria_ev] A Force broken in San Francisco Back on the Road
by "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Misbehaving Variac
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Prius Classic pack burn out.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Thermal measurements
by "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: DC safety circuit
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Thermal measurements
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Lube
by Mike Phillips <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Thermal measurements
by Mike Phillips <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) S-10 oem on eBay
by Jim Coate <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Crazy DC regen idea, thoughts, comments
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: how to : determine weight from photo .. weight of images for 3
square yards ( 9 square feet) .. and car cutout .. same rat
by "Clyde R. Visser, P.E." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: S-10 oem on eBay
by "Mike Ellis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Conversion questions
by "kapeli80" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) (no subject)
by Chris <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: S-10 oem on eBay
by "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Thermal measurements
by "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Thermal measurements
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Hybridize-yourself?
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
25) Re: Thermal measurements
by Mark Farver <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: coastdown rally Was: Porsche 911 Was: How many amps driving my
EV?
by Robert Baertsch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to All,
Just wanted to remind everyone who receives the Discovery channel, that
our own Rich Rudman and Shawn Lawless will be on TV tonight on the
Monster Garage show. Should be a hoot! My local TV listing has it on at
8:00 pm west coast time.
I met the guy who does the voice over for the show while we had White
Zombie on display at the Rod & Custom show this past February. He was
excited to tell me that he was scheduled to do his part for the show the
following Monday. He was pretty pumped up over doing this episode, and
told me seeing White Zombie and the drag racing videos of it jerking the
tires off the ground and blowing off muscle cars took him by surprise. I
think we helped prime the pump for him to be really excited about the
electric Chevy Rich and Shawn helped build.
See Ya.....John 'Monster Garage rejectee' Wayland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
From my quick look at the gears when the motor came out I noticed that the
gears were angled. Could this suck/pull the motor shaft back and forth when
under power or regen. Seems that it would put the bearings at risk. What
is the reason for the angle on gear sets anyway? I never understood it.
I've seen it. I've seen some stright and some angled. Is it a noise
thing? Lawrence Rhodes....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Danny Ames" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Sunday, April 09, 2006 6:47 AM
Subject: Re: [solectria_ev] A Force broken in San Francisco Back on the Road
Mike Phillips wrote:
Nice Job!
Does this happen much to Force motors?
If the bearings in your motor were toasted, what about the input shaft
bearing to the transmission? It spins the same speed as the motor and
was designed for half the rpm that the electric motor was running at.
Mike
I gather that its dependent on the amount of driving on steep hills and
the design of the Force.
The motor acts as a break when in regen and that places a large strain on
the bearings in the opposite direction.
The car is constantly stressing the motor bearings because the gear that
engages the rotor tugs on it when in breaking/regen then tugs the opposite
way on acceleration. I was not aware of this design arrangement when I got
my Force last year. But personally feel the car is better suited for flat
lander use.
I can not say if this happens much to Force motors since I 'am only
finding out about this now for the first time.
The bearing life will be severely diminished if one heavily loads it in
this fashion and think Solectria could have done a better job in this area
of the car if cost was not a factor.
Danny
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 10 Apr 2006 at 16:50, David Sharpe wrote:
> I have tried this. The cells are not defective. They have been neglected for
> about 5 years. There are 12 300 Ahr cells in total. I suspect they are
> massively sulphated.
I take it you mean "batteries," not "cells." Cells are the 2-volt
individual units which make up a battery.
I've observed this phenomenon only once, on an ancient gel battery that had
been sitting for many years uncharged.
In general, if you apply enough voltage, you can get a tiny current to flow.
It may then take days before you get enough charge into the battery for the
series light bulb to begin to light, but in almost all cases it will work.
I have applied as much as 50 volts to a 12 volt battery - again with a
series resistance to limit current.
Note though that, even if you get them to take a charge, those batteries
will probably never have much usable capacity.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yes the worm gear. That's what it's called. Angled gears. What is the
point? Why not a stright cut? Seems to me this type of gear arrangement
would suck and push the bearings(regen/normal) causing extra lateral force
which in this case rubbed the timing marks off the timing plate when the
bearings have slop. Am I wrong? Lawrence Rhodes.....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Will Beckett (becketts)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Sunday, April 09, 2006 1:54 PM
Subject: RE: [solectria_ev] A Force broken in San Francisco Back on the Road
Might be better for Danny to describe this but in basic terms, there is a
lot of stress at the worm gear connection to the gear box. This causes an
increase in the amount of play on the motor shaft and that will cause the
speed sensor to freak out. In Danny's case, the car stopped and wouldn't
start up again.
- Will
323 Los Altos Drive
Aptos, CA 95003
(831) 688-8669
http://becketts.ws/Will
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Lawrence Rhodes
Sent: Sunday, April 09, 2006 12:54 PM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Re: [solectria_ev] A Force broken in San Francisco Back on the
Road
I talked to Danny Saturday afternoon & he said the car wasn't yet running.
He must have gotten it going Saturday evening. Good job. As far as the
Gear box I saw when the motor came out I liked it. I don't know how it
runs
but it is small and puts the motor in a nice place to extract. Is there
some issue worth discussing here? Lawrence Rhodes.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Will Beckett (becketts)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Sunday, April 09, 2006 12:03 AM
Subject: RE: [solectria_ev] A Force broken in San Francisco Back on the
Road
Good to hear. Any word about making improvements to the gearbox based
on what you found?
- Will
323 Los Altos Drive
Aptos, CA 95003
(831) 688-8669
http://becketts.ws/Will
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Danny Ames
Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2006 8:46 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; EV SEND MSG; SFEAA
Subject: Re: [solectria_ev] A Force broken in San Francisco Back on
the Road
Wanted to share my good news.
Just completed the final repair work today and its working great.
With all the rain storms here in soggy California and my limited time
available to work on the car it has been a challenge.
Fortunately I was able to get a new sensor and get the motor in and
out ok between dry times.
Motor bearings were replaced due to excessive axial play.
The sensor board was also bad due to it getting banged.
Runs like a top.
Danny
Danny Ames wrote:
After several months of carefree driving we have now been down for
several weeks.
I have bee reluctant to post my story and a bit depressed and needed
to do some checking.
In my several calls to various people feel ready to run this by those
on the list.
What happened is the car starting bucking on de-acceleration and got
progressively worse till finally it stopped moving in downtown rush hour.
I examined the speed sensor disk and could see the lines scratched off
where the detector pair on the speed sensor is placed.
I re-inked the disk lines with a sharpie and tried to makes several
adjustments but could not get it going at all and had the car towed home.
Jacked up the front end so the wheels could turn freely.
Completely backed off the sensor and the motor would turn smoothly and
slowly.
In testing I adjusted the sensor closer in small increments to the
disk and then the motor started to respond in a very erratic and rough
stepping motions. The axial motion of the motor armature starting
jumping about at what appears to be .125 inch so the disk is moving
to and fro in this sputtering effect to the sensor and is very choppy
The motor bearings seem noise free but the armatures axial movement
maybe to great and the trouble possibly.
When the motor is at rest the disk is about flush to the motor face.
I can see the motor mounts with 3 bolts, so does one remove these and
simply slide the motor out.
Also how does the motor shaft engage to the transmission?
Hopefully I am on the right track to fixing this.
Danny
Yahoo! Groups Links
<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/solectria_ev/
<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Slightly off topic I have had 1 hurt hawker in the Current Eliminator
for a long time now and did receive a replacement for it.This weekend I have
started to cycle this battery on the bench and on one of the cycles the voltage
went to 6.75 under a 16 amp load.I did get a charger on the battery within 3
minutes,did I hurt this battery? Dennis Berube
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
(anecdote, as I was driving this am, I saw
a Saturn like mine tailgating an RV...ha...
you guessed it, he wasn't tailgating, it was a toad,
as they call them...So I pulled alongside, and I saw
that in fact his tow bar used an adaptor that went under
the bumper. I thought I would ask what people
think (or if they have direct experience..)
Yesterday, I looked closely at my Saturn and at
the tow bar that I bought (a bargain from ebay with
5000lb rating).
It seems that there is a sturdy beam that runs behind
the bumper (and behind the foam :-)....That I could
unbolt the bumper, and squeeze in an adaptor.
It would be behind the "grille". The bolts from
the tow bar would go through the grille into the
adaptor. If I am really smart, the adaptor would
be tapped, I would get better (machine grade) bolts,
and it would be like having braze ons on a bike...
unbolt it, and it's the plate is almost invisible.
Does anyone have experience just how heavy the adaptor
plate would need to be? I'm thinking I should be
able to find solid scrap steel, however, if angle iron
or the like would be strong enough, it might be
easier to work with (I actually have galvanized angle
iron in the garage, but it is not thick material)
A friend is a retired machinist, may help me get the
taps done right (if I am using solid bar)
I also know a fellow who builds race cars,
I could just bring him a drawing.
Of course, it might be more expensive than
the "gold-plate" Blue Ox tow bar $300,
but I like to try to go forward once I am going.
Thanks
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
It's about increased gear strength 1st, noise 2nd. The tradeoff is
that they now sideload the bearings. They also have more parasitic
drag than straight cut gears.
Mike
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Yes the worm gear. That's what it's called. Angled gears. What is
the
> point? Why not a stright cut? Seems to me this type of gear
arrangement
> would suck and push the bearings(regen/normal) causing extra lateral
force
> which in this case rubbed the timing marks off the timing plate when
the
> bearings have slop. Am I wrong? Lawrence Rhodes.....
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Will Beckett (becketts)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Sunday, April 09, 2006 1:54 PM
> Subject: RE: [solectria_ev] A Force broken in San Francisco Back on
the Road
>
>
> > Might be better for Danny to describe this but in basic terms,
there is a
> > lot of stress at the worm gear connection to the gear box. This
causes an
> > increase in the amount of play on the motor shaft and that will
cause the
> > speed sensor to freak out. In Danny's case, the car stopped and
wouldn't
> > start up again.
> >
> >
> > - Will
> >
> > 323 Los Altos Drive
> > Aptos, CA 95003
> >
> > (831) 688-8669
> > http://becketts.ws/Will
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> > Behalf Of Lawrence Rhodes
> > Sent: Sunday, April 09, 2006 12:54 PM
> > To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
> > Subject: Re: [solectria_ev] A Force broken in San Francisco Back
on the
> > Road
> >
> > I talked to Danny Saturday afternoon & he said the car wasn't yet
running.
> > He must have gotten it going Saturday evening. Good job. As far
as the
> > Gear box I saw when the motor came out I liked it. I don't know
how it
> > runs
> > but it is small and puts the motor in a nice place to extract. Is
there
> > some issue worth discussing here? Lawrence Rhodes.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Will Beckett (becketts)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Sent: Sunday, April 09, 2006 12:03 AM
> > Subject: RE: [solectria_ev] A Force broken in San Francisco Back
on the
> > Road
> >
> >
> >> Good to hear. Any word about making improvements to the gearbox
based
> >> on what you found?
> >>
> >>
> >> - Will
> >>
> >> 323 Los Altos Drive
> >> Aptos, CA 95003
> >>
> >> (831) 688-8669
> >> http://becketts.ws/Will
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >> On Behalf Of Danny Ames
> >> Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2006 8:46 PM
> >> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; EV SEND MSG; SFEAA
> >> Subject: Re: [solectria_ev] A Force broken in San Francisco Back on
> >> the Road
> >>
> >> Wanted to share my good news.
> >> Just completed the final repair work today and its working great.
> >> With all the rain storms here in soggy California and my limited time
> >> available to work on the car it has been a challenge.
> >> Fortunately I was able to get a new sensor and get the motor in and
> >> out ok between dry times.
> >> Motor bearings were replaced due to excessive axial play.
> >> The sensor board was also bad due to it getting banged.
> >> Runs like a top.
> >> Danny
> >>
> >> Danny Ames wrote:
> >>
> >>>After several months of carefree driving we have now been down for
> >>>several weeks.
> >>>I have bee reluctant to post my story and a bit depressed and needed
> >>>to do some checking.
> >>>In my several calls to various people feel ready to run this by those
> >>>on the list.
> >>>What happened is the car starting bucking on de-acceleration and got
> >>>progressively worse till finally it stopped moving in downtown
rush hour.
> >>>I examined the speed sensor disk and could see the lines
scratched off
> >>>where the detector pair on the speed sensor is placed.
> >>>I re-inked the disk lines with a sharpie and tried to makes several
> >>>adjustments but could not get it going at all and had the car
towed home.
> >>>Jacked up the front end so the wheels could turn freely.
> >>>Completely backed off the sensor and the motor would turn
smoothly and
> >>>slowly.
> >>>In testing I adjusted the sensor closer in small increments to the
> >>>disk and then the motor started to respond in a very erratic and
rough
> >>>stepping motions. The axial motion of the motor armature starting
> >>>jumping about at what appears to be .125 inch so the disk is moving
> >>>to and fro in this sputtering effect to the sensor and is very choppy
> >>>The motor bearings seem noise free but the armatures axial movement
> >>>maybe to great and the trouble possibly.
> >>>When the motor is at rest the disk is about flush to the motor face.
> >>>I can see the motor mounts with 3 bolts, so does one remove these and
> >>>simply slide the motor out.
> >>>Also how does the motor shaft engage to the transmission?
> >>>Hopefully I am on the right track to fixing this.
> >>>Danny
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>Yahoo! Groups Links
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Maybe a brush adjustment is needed. I used contact cleaner and running at
different voltages. I zapped mine once at high voltage and amps on a really
big pack and now it works smoothly. If you really broke a winding it would
stop working altogether. Lawrence Rhodes.......
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Hastings" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, April 10, 2006 5:32 AM
Subject: Misbehaving Variac
I have been using what is listed to be a 10 amp isolated variac for about 6
months either on my truck or my electric tractor. Recently It is very
finicky about where it will turn on and not turn on when I adjust the dial.
The indicator on the front always stays lit and the voltage displays on the
analog gauge but it doesn't put out any amps and when I use my DMM their is
no voltage on the outputs. Yesterday it actually would only work if if I
pushed down on the dial. I only used it for a few minutes like this and
then unplugged it.
I don't use it for more than 5-6 amps A/C with a 35amp full bridge. Is
there anything I can do to revive it or is it a loss? Can I use it with
say a rock on it until that part of the coil burns out too?
Thanks,
Mark Hastings
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
There is a Classic Prius on the toyota-prius list that has a burnt out pack
& the dealer will give 3k for it.(that means in my book the car is still
wort 10k) Seems to me this is a great time to make it plug in. What is the
option now? Anyone done this surgery? Maybe I should contact another list.
Thanks for any info.
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
Vegetable Oil Car.
415-821-3519
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Actually 1N2535 is just their part number structure. Here's the link.
It looks like a potted part of some kind.
http://www.evparts.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=435&product_id=1542
Mike
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> At 05:34 AM 10/04/06 +0000, you wrote:
> >Excellent! So that implies it's a solid state part of sorts. Have you
> >compared it to a reliable source?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Mike
> >
> > > > > terminal strip on the back of the Link-10. The part No. for
this
> > > > sensor is 1N2535.
>
> Hi Mike, Roland and all
>
> The implication is that they have used a normal part number, that
part is a
> silicon diode, something like 50V 1A (IIRC, without getting out the
> databook). If that is so, pretty much any silicon diode of this sort of
> size should substitute, i.e. a 20 cent part (if that), the rest is the
> housing. No problems with cold junction compensation or wire
resistance,
> but a very small signal that is easy to interfere with - hence the
twisted,
> shielded instrument grade (expensive) cable. Roland, does this sound
like
> what you have?
>
> Regards
>
> James
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Ideally the controller should look for a level of current which is
inappropriate for the level of throttle applied. The controller
originates the PWM signal so it can certainly come up with current
expectations.
If the motor is drawing too much current but the gas is being pressed,
then it should reduce the PWM duty cycle. Perhaps the person is on a
hill or thought it would be fun to see if he could pull a trailer. In
this case the only reason to reduce PWM current should be if it exceeds
the current rating of the controller (or motor brushes/windings) and is
in danger of damaging a component.
If the controller is not driving the output- which would happen if the
pedal were not depressed- then as far as I can see any current indicates
failure. However inductive (noncontact, non-shunt) sensors do have an
offset error so that device itself can make a false reading,
particularly after a very large current. A shunt's amplifiers have some
degree of offset too. It would be necessary that the properties of the
sensing device be well understood.
Danny
Evan Tuer wrote:
On 4/10/06, Michaela Merz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Since I read about how bad DC controllers might fail (well, I kind of knew
that before but .. ) I was driving down the road with my foot on the
clutch. And I was thinking: It can't be too complicated to have some sort
of fail safe that would 'kick in' if a controller breaks down.
A micro switch on the potbox would have to be combined with a voltage
sensing circuit at the motor. If the foot is off the gas pedal and there's
still voltage supplied to the motor: Throw the contactor.
I've tried this, and it works, but you have to be careful to avoid
"false alarms". The motor voltage does not vanish immediately, so I
disovered that if you let your foot off the pedal very quickly while
moving fast, it would drop out the contactor. But, if you set the
voltage triggering too high (or add a delay) it might not be sensitive
or fast enough to prevent some damage if the controller really did
fail on, and it's hard to test. So, a circuit that senses current
might be a better idea.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
It is likely this is a simple thermistor. The thermistor itself is
available for basically nothing (usually under $1) if you want to
fabricate an appropriate mount and wire length. In many cases this may
be better than their one-size-fits-all solution anyways.
We need the thermistor's base resistance and B-value. Actually B-value
is not all that descriptive though, really the profile of resistance vs
temp would help. It is likely the exact same thermistor is readily
available, just a matter of figuring out which one it is.
Danny
Mike Phillips wrote:
Actually 1N2535 is just their part number structure. Here's the link.
It looks like a potted part of some kind.
http://www.evparts.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=435&product_id=1542
Mike
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
At 05:34 AM 10/04/06 +0000, you wrote:
Excellent! So that implies it's a solid state part of sorts. Have you
compared it to a reliable source?
Thanks,
Mike
terminal strip on the back of the Link-10. The part No. for
this
sensor is 1N2535.
Hi Mike, Roland and all
The implication is that they have used a normal part number, that
part is a
silicon diode, something like 50V 1A (IIRC, without getting out the
databook). If that is so, pretty much any silicon diode of this sort of
size should substitute, i.e. a 20 cent part (if that), the rest is the
housing. No problems with cold junction compensation or wire
resistance,
but a very small signal that is easy to interfere with - hence the
twisted,
shielded instrument grade (expensive) cable. Roland, does this sound
like
what you have?
Regards
James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
What do folks use for lube in their gearboxes and rear ends on their
EV's?
0W-20 Mobile One is what was recommended to me for gearboxes due to
lowest drag.
Mike
Here's to the crazy ones.
The misfits.
The rebels.
The troublemakers.
The round pegs in the square holes.
The ones who see things differently
The ones that change the world!!
www.RotorDesign.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Understood. We need a brave soul to grind one apart and hopefully the
part number is not gone. It's a $33-$50 offering to the EV gods.
I suppose some experimentation might turn up the answer as well.
Mike
--- Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> It is likely this is a simple thermistor. The thermistor itself is
> available for basically nothing (usually under $1) if you want to
> fabricate an appropriate mount and wire length. In many cases this
> may
> be better than their one-size-fits-all solution anyways.
>
> We need the thermistor's base resistance and B-value. Actually
> B-value
> is not all that descriptive though, really the profile of resistance
> vs
> temp would help. It is likely the exact same thermistor is readily
> available, just a matter of figuring out which one it is.
>
> Danny
>
> Mike Phillips wrote:
>
> >Actually 1N2535 is just their part number structure. Here's the
> link.
> >It looks like a potted part of some kind.
> >
>
>http://www.evparts.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=435&product_id=1542
> >
> >Mike
> >
> >
> >
> >--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> >
> >>At 05:34 AM 10/04/06 +0000, you wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>Excellent! So that implies it's a solid state part of sorts. Have
> you
> >>>compared it to a reliable source?
> >>>
> >>>Thanks,
> >>>
> >>>Mike
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>>>terminal strip on the back of the Link-10. The part No. for
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >this
> >
> >
> >>>>>sensor is 1N2535.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>Hi Mike, Roland and all
> >>
> >>The implication is that they have used a normal part number, that
> >>
> >>
> >part is a
> >
> >
> >>silicon diode, something like 50V 1A (IIRC, without getting out the
>
> >>databook). If that is so, pretty much any silicon diode of this
> sort of
> >>size should substitute, i.e. a 20 cent part (if that), the rest is
> the
> >>housing. No problems with cold junction compensation or wire
> >>
> >>
> >resistance,
> >
> >
> >>but a very small signal that is easy to interfere with - hence the
> >>
> >>
> >twisted,
> >
> >
> >>shielded instrument grade (expensive) cable. Roland, does this
> sound
> >>
> >>
> >like
> >
> >
> >>what you have?
> >>
> >>Regards
> >>
> >>James
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Here's to the crazy ones.
The misfits.
The rebels.
The troublemakers.
The round pegs in the square holes.
The ones who see things differently
The ones that change the world!!
www.RotorDesign.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
1997 S-10 EV on eBay in Holland, MA:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4629840591
As a 1997, it would have been built with PbA batteries, so I think the
posted range was optimistic in '97, and very optimistic now if it still
has the original 9 year old pack in it. I have sent a question to the
seller asking if the batteries have been replaced. The truck itself
looks to be nice. These finds always leave me wondering where the truck
has been hiding for the past 9 years.
--
Jim Coate
1970's Elec-Trak's
1997 Solectria Force
1998 Chevy S-10 NiMH BEV
1997 Chevy S-10 NGV Bi-Fuel
http://www.eeevee.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Electric Man wrote:
> What about adding an isolated winding to the field coils of small
> gauge wire with many turns, and then controlling it with a low
> current controller.
Yes, that works. It's called a compound motor.
Note that the small-gauge wire has to be heavily insulated. It and the
main series field form a transformer with a high step-up ratio.
Let's say the series field is wound for 1v drop, and the added shunt
field for a 100v drop. Then you have a 100:1 step-up transformer.
When you put power the series field with a PWM controller that is
switching at a 50% duty cycle between 100v and 0v, this is putting 50vac
across the motor (plus the 50vdc average, which is what is doing the
work). The series field has most of the inductance (like 80%), so it
gets 40vac. This is stepped up by transformer action to become 4000
volts on your shunt field winding!
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 10 Apr 2006 at 1:03, Neon John wrote:
> As an aside, I've had a life-long hobby/avocation (since about the age
> of 6, anyway) of collecting old technical, scientific and mathematical
> books. My library now numbers in the thousands of volumes and is one
> of the most valuable resources I have, right behind the net.
>
<snip>
>
> I only wish I had the time and money to scan these old books and put
> them on the net. Meanwhile, the used book stores are the engineer's
> best friends.
I use www.abebooks.com and www.addall.com to find reference texts. They allow
used book
stores to place their inventory on the net. Additionally, if the text is
sufficiently recent, I plug
the ISBN into the eBay search engine to let me know when a text that I'm
searching for is
listed.
Clyde
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
He posted his response, they batts are dead.
So tempting.
-Mike
On 4/10/06, Jim Coate <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 1997 S-10 EV on eBay in Holland, MA:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4629840591
>
> As a 1997, it would have been built with PbA batteries, so I think the
> posted range was optimistic in '97, and very optimistic now if it still
> has the original 9 year old pack in it. I have sent a question to the
> seller asking if the batteries have been replaced. The truck itself
> looks to be nice. These finds always leave me wondering where the truck
> has been hiding for the past 9 years.
>
>
> --
> Jim Coate
> 1970's Elec-Trak's
> 1997 Solectria Force
> 1998 Chevy S-10 NiMH BEV
> 1997 Chevy S-10 NGV Bi-Fuel
> http://www.eeevee.com
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'm an ev newbie thinking about doing a old Beetle convertible
conversion and was hoping somebody could help me with a few questions
I haven't figured out yet. I want a car that could drive around 30-40
miles and reach at least 60+ mph. I can't seem to make sence out of
what it might take to make it do that but for a setup I was thinking
12 deep cycle batteries lead acids in 2 banks at 72v, probably the 9"
ACD motor or maybe a shunt, the pfc20 charger (you can charge 2 banks
with this right?), and I haven't figured what motor controller or
anything else out yet. Also how well does a Beetle convert to ev?
Will I be able to fit 12 batteries in there?
Thanks for you help,
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
set EV mail ack
set EV mail digest
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'd love to know more about the air conditioning and heating used for
the pack!
Mike
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], "Mike Ellis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> He posted his response, they batts are dead.
>
> So tempting.
>
> -Mike
>
> On 4/10/06, Jim Coate <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > 1997 S-10 EV on eBay in Holland, MA:
> >
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4629840591
> >
> > As a 1997, it would have been built with PbA batteries, so I think the
> > posted range was optimistic in '97, and very optimistic now if it
still
> > has the original 9 year old pack in it. I have sent a question to the
> > seller asking if the batteries have been replaced. The truck itself
> > looks to be nice. These finds always leave me wondering where the
truck
> > has been hiding for the past 9 years.
> >
> >
> > --
> > Jim Coate
> > 1970's Elec-Trak's
> > 1997 Solectria Force
> > 1998 Chevy S-10 NiMH BEV
> > 1997 Chevy S-10 NGV Bi-Fuel
> > http://www.eeevee.com
> >
> >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Could someone take a meter and measure the resistance of the part?
That would narrow down one variable.
Mike
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> It is likely this is a simple thermistor. The thermistor itself is
> available for basically nothing (usually under $1) if you want to
> fabricate an appropriate mount and wire length. In many cases this may
> be better than their one-size-fits-all solution anyways.
>
> We need the thermistor's base resistance and B-value. Actually B-value
> is not all that descriptive though, really the profile of resistance vs
> temp would help. It is likely the exact same thermistor is readily
> available, just a matter of figuring out which one it is.
>
> Danny
>
> Mike Phillips wrote:
>
> >Actually 1N2535 is just their part number structure. Here's the link.
> >It looks like a potted part of some kind.
> >
>
>http://www.evparts.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=435&product_id=1542
> >
> >Mike
> >
> >
> >
> >--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], James Massey <ev@> wrote:
> >
> >
> >>At 05:34 AM 10/04/06 +0000, you wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>Excellent! So that implies it's a solid state part of sorts. Have you
> >>>compared it to a reliable source?
> >>>
> >>>Thanks,
> >>>
> >>>Mike
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>>>terminal strip on the back of the Link-10. The part No. for
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >this
> >
> >
> >>>>>sensor is 1N2535.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>Hi Mike, Roland and all
> >>
> >>The implication is that they have used a normal part number, that
> >>
> >>
> >part is a
> >
> >
> >>silicon diode, something like 50V 1A (IIRC, without getting out the
> >>databook). If that is so, pretty much any silicon diode of this
sort of
> >>size should substitute, i.e. a 20 cent part (if that), the rest is
the
> >>housing. No problems with cold junction compensation or wire
> >>
> >>
> >resistance,
> >
> >
> >>but a very small signal that is easy to interfere with - hence the
> >>
> >>
> >twisted,
> >
> >
> >>shielded instrument grade (expensive) cable. Roland, does this sound
> >>
> >>
> >like
> >
> >
> >>what you have?
> >>
> >>Regards
> >>
> >>James
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Anybody in Austin got one? If someone brings me one I can test it with
some digital temp sensors and figure out the exact match.
Danny
Mike Phillips wrote:
Could someone take a meter and measure the resistance of the part?
That would narrow down one variable.
Mike
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
It is likely this is a simple thermistor. The thermistor itself is
available for basically nothing (usually under $1) if you want to
fabricate an appropriate mount and wire length. In many cases this may
be better than their one-size-fits-all solution anyways.
We need the thermistor's base resistance and B-value. Actually B-value
is not all that descriptive though, really the profile of resistance vs
temp would help. It is likely the exact same thermistor is readily
available, just a matter of figuring out which one it is.
Danny
Mike Phillips wrote:
Actually 1N2535 is just their part number structure. Here's the link.
It looks like a potted part of some kind.
http://www.evparts.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=435&product_id=1542
Mike
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], James Massey <ev@> wrote:
At 05:34 AM 10/04/06 +0000, you wrote:
Excellent! So that implies it's a solid state part of sorts. Have you
compared it to a reliable source?
Thanks,
Mike
terminal strip on the back of the Link-10. The part No. for
this
sensor is 1N2535.
Hi Mike, Roland and all
The implication is that they have used a normal part number, that
part is a
silicon diode, something like 50V 1A (IIRC, without getting out the
databook). If that is so, pretty much any silicon diode of this
sort of
size should substitute, i.e. a 20 cent part (if that), the rest is
the
housing. No problems with cold junction compensation or wire
resistance,
but a very small signal that is easy to interfere with - hence the
twisted,
shielded instrument grade (expensive) cable. Roland, does this sound
like
what you have?
Regards
James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I know the Toyota setup uses a separate motor, but doesn't the Honda "IMA"
system have to have the engine running to use electric drive? Saw this on eBay
and thought you'd have to have a separate EV drive to the rear wheels to make
it a plug-in:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8053363420
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mike Phillips wrote:
Excellent! So that implies it's a solid state part of sorts. Have you
compared it to a reliable source?
From the archives:
----------------------------------------------------
Date: Sun, 28 Nov 2004 21:32:07 -0800
From: Lee Hart
To: ev.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: eMeter temp sensor
... I worked for Cruising Equipment (which designed the E-meter). I
can say for certain that we designed it for an LM35. A 10k thermistor
might work, but would be seriously less accurate.
----------------------------------------------------
Mark Farver
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The EPA numbers are very interesting.
perhaps the EV club should have a coastdown rally somewhere flat and see
if we can figure out what the EPA uses or come up with our own.
Are there any flat areas around Silicon Valley that would be suitable?
David Dymaxion wrote:
You do have to be careful. Some manufacturers want to make the Cd
sound as good as possible, so they'll just use the height*width of
the care for the area. I think one of the best sources for aero info
is <http://www.epa.gov/otaq/tcldata.htm>.
Unfortunately the fields are not well documented. In the earlier
years there is a column for effective frontal area, typical car
numbers run from about 7 to 11. In the later years there is a column
for coastdown time, but I haven't been able to find for what speed
range -- anyone know what that is?
About the effectiveness of a belly pan: I'm sure it would help,
especially on an electric. Electrics don't need to worry about hot
exhaust or radiator cooling. It would be nice if someone could do
some before-and-after coastdowns to see how much a bellypan would
help (I'm planning to do this). Just anecdotally, I've heard a
Corvette picked up 10 mph on the Salt Flats just by switching to
narrower tires, and about another car that picked up 7 mph just with
headlight covers.
If anyone would like to do coastdowns with their car, I have a
program that will calculate the rolling resistance and effective
area, I'd be happy to run the numbers.
--- Peter VanDerWal <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I'd meant to mention that CdA was a more important measurement, but
I
couldn't find any good info on the frontal area of the vehicles in
question (and using posted hight & width is highly misleading)
I was kind of wondering about the Camry. I still think a Saab
might make
a better candidate since it seems to me they have a better load
handling
capacity than the Porsches, and close to the same CdA.
I wonder what the CdA would be for a Porsche 914? As I recall the
Cd
wasn't all that great, but it seems to me that it has even less
frontal
area than a 911.
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--- End Message ---
