EV Digest 5350

Topics covered in this issue include:

  1) NiCad questions, tools and stuff...
        by "Richard Acuti" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  2) Re: Fry's AV addition
        by Ricky Suiter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  3) Re: NiCads (was: Greetings)
        by "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  4) Re: Charging Dead Flat AGMs
        by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  5) Re: Anybody near Atlanta?
        by Dave <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  6) Subject: last "This New Car" Radio Show now on-line
        by M Bianchi <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  7) Re: Fry's AV addition
        by Nick Austin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  8) RE: Charging Dead Flat AGMs
        by "David Sharpe" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  9) Re: Hybridize-yourself?
        by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 10) RE: Hybridize-yourself?
        by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 11) Working on an acceleration calculator
        by "Erik Bigelow" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 12) Re: Hybridize-yourself?
        by "damon henry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 13) Re: Thermal measurements
        by "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 14) Re: AC vs DC; Newbie Question
        by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 15) Chevy Luv burnouts?
        by DM3 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 16) Re: Thermal measurements
        by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 17) Monster Garage
        by Ricky Suiter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 18) MONSTER GARAGE
        by "Don Davidson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 19) Re: NiCad questions, tools and stuff...
        by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 20) Re: Plug-in Prius question
        by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 21) Re: Monster Garage
        by Mike Phillips <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 22) MPV EV Conversion
        by "Brian Kardell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 23) Re: Monster Garage
        by "Don Davidson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 24) Re: Hybridize-yourself?
        by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 25) Re: Monster Garage
        by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 26) Re: Thermal measurements
        by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 27) Re: 300zx for sale 
        by bruce bogusz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 28) Mazda conversion advice
        by "Brian Kardell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 29) Re: NiCad questions, tools and stuff...
        by "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
I have some general questions as I'm still a newbie:

1. What do you all typically use to insulate your tools for working around high voltage? I came within a millimeter of blowing myself across the parking lot and smoking my controller. I suppose I could wrap with electrical tape but is there anything better?

2. Flooded NiCads were recommended to me by a list member. I have some questions but I don't think he's in town or my email isn't making it past his spam filter. So....

a) What are NiCad's flooded with? I don't imagine you add water as with PbA batteries.
 b)  What is the expected life span of a NiCad pack?
c) Will my old Lestermatic PbA battery charger work with NiCads? (220v 40 amp charger) d) My (imperfect) understanding is that the NiCads will deliver the rated current right up until they are completely discharged unlike PbA's which drop in output even before the rated time (Puerket's Effect?) Am I understanding this correctly? e) What effect does cold weather have on NiCad's vs. PbA batteries? Does the range still decrease? How much?

Thanks in advance,

Rich A.
81' Comuta Van
Maryland

_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE! http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
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Granted, but the normal outlet would be the cheapest way to do it hands down. I 
think a new Avcon unit is over $1,000, but if the EAA has a stash of them you 
could possibly do it cheaper.
   
  In my experience too, and I'm running a conversion here, is the Avcon's 
eventually require service. Here in Arizona we have some charging 
infrastructure left from the late 90's and they put Avcon's in because the 
power companies had Rangers. I don't know if it's from lack of use or what, but 
there are a couple of them I can't get to work no matter what, and the power 
company shows little to no interest in fixing them even though they are still 
there. The outlet wouldn't have these issues. 
   
  Just trying to keep things simple.

Nick Austin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  On Mon, Apr 10, 2006 at 04:55:23PM -0700, Ricky Suiter wrote:
> Or how about this, foreget the Avcon all together, and don't remove the SPI.
> Just add a 14-50 outlet to the circuit that one of the paddle chargers is on.

So, isn't it true that the Avcon heads have GFCI, auto resetting over current
protection, and pull away protection?

Seems like you want one of these if you can get it, right?

> and that way anyone could charge there. 

If you need a simple outlet, you could just use an Avcon converter box.

> If someone had say a Ranger EV they
> could have their own portable Avcon box and use it,
> you could plug your force in

I have one of the old NJ transit forces. They have only Avcon input. :(

> and the Rav4's could still use the paddle chargers. Just don't try
> and charge 3 at a time.

Is there an availability problem with the SPI chargers at Fry's today? Will 
there be if one is removed?

Thanks!



                
---------------------------------
Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls.  Great rates 
starting at 1&cent;/min.

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You can see mine here and solution i used to avoid leakage

http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/images/BatSaxo
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/images/BatSaxo2
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/images/BatSaxo3

If you have the right diameter and use plastic harness on all connections
there is no more problem.

some picture of my renault Clio car here (yes it use Saft nicad also :^)

http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/images/ClioAvD.jpg
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/images/ClioArG.jpg
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/images/ClioCoffre.jpg
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/images/CliocapotMoteur.jpg
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/images/ClioIntConducteur.jpg
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/images/ClioSiegesAr.jpg
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/images/ClioJaugeDigitale.jpg
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/images/ClioUbatAuxAutonomie.jpg
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/images/ClioTempExt.jpg
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/images/ClioVbatIbat.jpg

cordialement,
Philippe

Et si le pot d'échappement sortait au centre du volant ?
quel carburant choisiriez-vous ?
 http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr
Forum de discussion sur les véhicules électriques
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, April 10, 2006 12:38 AM
Subject: NiCads (was: Greetings)


> I have the SAFT MRE-100's in my Wabbit. So far, so good.
>
> Water cooling is the way to go, but a pain to implement.
>
> If I had it to do all over again, I think I would buy super high
> quality rubber hose and drill just the right size holes in the side
> of it to push onto the barbs on the batteries. Maybe lube up the
> holes with RTV to be sure of a good seal.
>
>          I may actually do it this way when I get tired of fixing
> leaky connections. :-)
>
>          I bought these when the Euro was about equal to the dollar.
> That is no longer the case now. :-(
>
> Bill Dube'
>
> At 03:21 PM 4/9/2006, you wrote:
> >As many of you know, I kind of slipped out of the EV world (and
> >arguably out of any world) for the past two years. However, I'm
> >back, and I'm determined to install a NiCad or NiMH battery pack in
> >quantum mechanic.
> >
> >(alter ego sez: He just doesn't give up, does he folks)
> >
> >I'm currently in negotiations with SAFT, but if anyone has any other
> >suggestions for NiMH/NiCad, please let me know.
> >
> >My NiZn b
> >
> >Minimum requirements:
> >
> >55Ah
> >capable of sustained 100A/2C, bursting to 250A/5C
> >
> >I'm willing to install a water cooling system if that turns out to
> >be advisable.
> >
> >I will attempt to read this list regularly again. Sorry that I went
> >away.. bad things happened in my personal life.
> >
> >Sheer
> >
>

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--- Begin Message ---
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 
> Slightly off topic        I have had 1 hurt hawker in the Current Eliminator
> for a long time now and did receive a replacement for it.This weekend I have
> started to cycle this battery on the bench and on one of the cycles the 
> voltage
> went to 6.75 under a 16 amp load.I did get a charger on the battery within 3
> minutes,did I hurt this battery?                          Dennis Berube

We can't tell now. At the time you did it, you could have removed the
16-amp load and watched what happened to the voltage. If you hadn't
reversed a cell, then the voltage would very quickly go back up to
almost 11.x volts. If you *did* reverse a cell, then it would only come
up to 8-10 volts. If you reversed *two* cells, it would be ~2v lower
yet, etc.

But on a new Hawker, the cells are probably matched well enough that
they all went dead at about the same time. So, the odds are that you
shortened its life, but didn't kill it on the spot.
-- 
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in    --    Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net

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-----Original Message-----
>From: Dmitri Hurik <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Sent: Apr 10, 2006 7:05 PM
>To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
>Subject: Anybody near Atlanta?
>
>Anybody here around Atlanta?
>


Quite a few.

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The FINAL episode of "This New Car" is now on-line (MP3 recording) at
        http://www.wicn.org/programs/thisnewcar/schedule.htm

Podcast/RSS support for "This New Car" is available on the same page.

The episodes are 30 minutes each and almost all meat, very little fat compared
to most talk shows.  Listen and see if you agree.

The entire schedule of 13 weeks ...

Available ...
  #1 Pros and Cons of Hybrid Vehicles
  #2 Pros and Cons of Alternative-Energy Vehicles
  #3 Hydrogen-combustion vehicles
  #4 Fuel-cell vehicles
  #5 Electric & plug-in vehicles
  #6 New-technology vehicles
  #7 What makes a hybrid a hybrid?
  #8 Saving fuel with computers
  #9 Detroit: Can the Motor City be hybrid-ized?
 #10 "Green" vehicles: What are they and does the average consumer really care?
 #11 What can be done about the cars currently on the road to make them
     cleaner and more environmentally friendly?
 #12 Are the state and federal governments doing enough to promote and support
     "green" vehicles?

 #13 Does everyone need to own a vehicle?

        In the April 2 show, "This New Car" explores: Does Everyone Need To
        Own A Car?  In the U.S., patronage of mass transit grew steadily from
        1900 (six billion passengers per year) to 1927 (over 17 billion), but
        plummeted during the Great Depression.  Patronage grew again during
        War II, peaking in 1946 at 23 billion riders, but then dropped
        steadily every year until the mild renaissance of public transit in
        the early 1970s.  However, the total number of riders in 1970 was
        still less than that of 1910. The reasons for these declines are
        complex and often political.  Los Angeles, for example, had over 1,000
        miles of trolley and interurban lines before 1930 - but this system
        was taken over by a private company, dismantled, and replaced with
        noisy, polluting, and comparatively slow buses.  Since few people
        chose to ride them, costs rose, thereby cutting the number of
        passengers further.  To reduce costs, private companies eliminated
        outlying branches and smaller stations.  These trends, along with
        inexpensive gasoline, suburban and highway development, the
        deterioration of older subway lines, and the greater freedom cars
        offered, have helped turn the U.S. into a car culture.  However, as
        the public has grown increasingly concerned over the impact of cars on
        the environment and the quality of life in urban areas, there is
        growing support for the development of more efficient and comfortable
        mass-transit systems.

 "This New Car", is a special 13-week edition of "The Business Beat", on
 WICN/90.5 FM and at WICN.org in Worcester, MA, the National Public Radio
 affiliate serving Central New England.

 The experts for this lively, informative discussion on hybrid and
 alternative-fuel vehicles are

   Jim Dunn             the NASA Center for Technology Commercialization

   Gilles Labelle       the Hybrid Center of Massachusetts at Westboro Toyota

   Craig Van Batenburg  the Automotive Career Development Center

                all in Westboro Massachusetts.

"This New Car" is hosted by Steven Jones-D'Agostino of Best Rate Of Climb in
 Worcester, MA, and sponsored exclusively by Westboro Toyota.

-- 
 Mike Bianchi
 Foveal Systems

 973 822-2085   call to arrange Fax

 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 http://www.AutoAuditorium.com
 http://www.FovealMounts.com

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--- Begin Message ---
On Mon, Apr 10, 2006 at 05:39:49PM -0700, Ricky Suiter wrote:
> Granted, but the normal outlet would be the cheapest way to do it hands down.
> I think a new Avcon unit is over $1,000, but if the EAA has a stash of them 
> you could possibly do it cheaper.

Yea, I think the EAA has a few at least.

<..snip..>

While I concede that an Avcon head may require more maintenance then a simple
outlet, I'm afraid that the first person who connects a charger with the power
turned up too high will put us out of business until we can get somebody to
flip a breaker. 

> The outlet wouldn't have these issues. 

I worry tripped breakers, and cars with ground faults shocking patrons.

It seems like a single "I got shocked" report could end our charging at
Fry's days...

That and a simple outlet would make it less convenient for me. :)

>    
>   Just trying to keep things simple.

Always a good plan!

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The cell ran at about 2V but when I attempted introducing a low voltage
source, a variable 0-14V 20A power supply the cell volts "broke free" and
went to O/C volts again requiring an increase of volts from the other source
in series with the light bulb to re-establish the cell. Ill try longer times
at low current and perhaps my old trick to remove shorts in NiCd cells- a
blast from a 10000uF cap charged to 50V.
David 

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Lee Hart
Sent: Tuesday, 11 April 2006 3:38 AM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Charging Dead Flat AGMs

David Sharpe wrote:
> I have tried this. The cells are not defective. They have been neglected
> for about 5 years. There are 12 300 Ahr cells in total. I suspect they
> are massively sulphated. Procedures for wet cells don't seem to work
> on AGMs. Any other ideas?

What did happen when you applied a higher voltage for several days?

5 years dead is a *long* time! You may have the face the possibility
that they are not just slightly dead, but permanently dead.
-- 
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in    --    Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net



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Hello to All,

damon henry wrote:

Yes, the only time the Honda system moves with the gas motor turned off is if gravity and/or momentum are on your side. The electric drive will not work without the ICE running.

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

I know the Toyota setup uses a separate motor, but doesn't the Honda "IMA"
system have to have the engine running to use electric drive?


Damon, you disappoint me :-( You need to get up to speed, dude! The 2006 Honda hybrids will in fact, run on battery power alone. They do it, just the way I predicted they would 5 years ago. They close the valves in the engine, cut off the injectors, and let the stuff all spin along with the electric motor. Having all the valves closed amounts to the same thing as having them all open, in that there is very little drag against the electric motor, probably not any more drag than the Prius' drag caused by the planetary arrangement they use.

See Ya....John Wayland

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--- Begin Message ---
but....It might make a bitching range extender trailer!

Just wire that motor as a DC genhead and keep the batteries and bms for
the peak shaving.

It would have pretty low emmisions.

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi all,
 
I've been playing with Uve's EV calculator for a while now (thanks for
making it if you're reading Uve!) and I've found I have the range I need
for commuting, but am trying to make a decision between 6V and 8V
batteries and felt the need for an acceleration calculator. Borrowing
the motor constants from Uve's page, I think I have a reasonably
complete model, complete enough to at least give realistic relative
performance between different battery, motor and controller choices. I
do have a couple of gaps that I'm hoping some of the more experienced
can help fill in. Any estimates, wildass guesses or sources would be
fantastic!
 
Overall resistance of battery wiring, contactors, fuses. (I think I
recently saw 50-100 mOhms in a post)
 
Motor and controller efficiency at different operating points - I think
I've heard that WZ's motor would be running at 50-60% efficiency. Is
this because of massive current? I think I remember hearing that motors
and controllers are less efficient at lower speeds and a lower duty
cycle. Again I'm just looking for numbers to help make it more accurate
so anything would be great.
 
I'm doing this in Excel so hopefully a lot of people will be able to
open it and I'll be happy to pass it around as soon as I'm done. Thanks!
 
Erik

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--- Begin Message --- Well, I have to admit I did not know that (I quit following the Honda Hybrid list a few years ago), but in my defense the particular engine being sold appears to be from an 05 Civic :-)


From: John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Hybridize-yourself?
Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2006 18:57:12 -0700

Hello to All,

damon henry wrote:

Yes, the only time the Honda system moves with the gas motor turned off is if gravity and/or momentum are on your side. The electric drive will not work without the ICE running.

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

I know the Toyota setup uses a separate motor, but doesn't the Honda "IMA"
system have to have the engine running to use electric drive?


Damon, you disappoint me :-( You need to get up to speed, dude! The 2006 Honda hybrids will in fact, run on battery power alone. They do it, just the way I predicted they would 5 years ago. They close the valves in the engine, cut off the injectors, and let the stuff all spin along with the electric motor. Having all the valves closed amounts to the same thing as having them all open, in that there is very little drag against the electric motor, probably not any more drag than the Prius' drag caused by the planetary arrangement they use.

See Ya....John Wayland


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A 3 lead part and only two leads on the Emeter?

Mike



--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> James Massey wrote:
> > So that implies it's a solid state part of sorts.
> 
> Mike Phillips wrote:
> > Actually 1N2535 is just their part number structure. Here's the link.
> 
> Danny Miller wrote:
> > It is likely this is a simple thermistor.
> 
> > The implication is that they have used a normal part number, that
> > part is a silicon diode, something like 50V 1A
> 
> No, no, no... we've been over this many times before.
> 
> The temperature sensor for an E-meter or Link-10 is a National
> Semiconductor LM35, a precision centigrade temperature sensing IC.
> Inside the potted module that Xantrex sells is the LM35, a 200-ohm
> resistor, and some noise filter capacitors. The circuit is right off the
> LM35 data sheet.
> -- 
> Ring the bells that still can ring
> Forget the perfect offering
> There is a crack in everything
> That's how the light gets in    --    Leonard Cohen
> --
> Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
>





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On Mon, 10 Apr 2006 00:33:09 -0600, "[EMAIL PROTECTED]"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>
>But an AC motor with a shorted controller doesn't lock up. It just 
>gives max torque with saturated rotor. The tires may, or may not, 
>slip. The tires will certainly continue to turn. If they stop 
>turning, the motor torque goes to zero.

First let's define "shorted controller" as one where pack voltage is
applied to one phase.

Under those conditions, the induction motor most certainly will lock
up.  OK, to split hairs, not quite.  It might turn maybe a revolution
per second but through the gears, that's as good as a lockup.

if you don't believe me, try it.  Pick up any AC motor you have
sitting around.  Put as little as 12 volts on any winding.  Now try to
turn it.  You can but just barely.  Now imagine the full operating
voltage as DC on that winding.

John
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds.-Ralph Waldo Emerson

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Has anyone converted a c1979 chevy luv pu for drag racing?  It is a pretty
stout little truck and I was wondering how much of the stock drive train
can be used.  Also, are the GE 9 inch motors too heavy for the amount of
torque they deliver?  Has anyone paired some up?
Thanks,
Jimmy

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--- Begin Message ---
On Mon, 10 Apr 2006 15:36:54 -0000, "Mike Phillips"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>Actually 1N2535 is just their part number structure. Here's the link.
>It looks like a potted part of some kind.
>
>http://www.evparts.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=435&product_id=1542

Does anyone have one of these who can actually meter it and see what
it is?  We have 3 versions on record now.

a) Lee awhile back said that it is an LM-10 temperature transmitter.

b) This stock number looks like a diode part number.  Reasonable, as a
forward biased diode is a very good temperature sensor.

c) I started using 10kohm thermistors before I was told anything
different.  From 0-25 deg C, the E-meter display agrees with the
temperature on the sensor within a degree or two.

I suspect that b) is probably correct and c) is close enough for the
current  the E-meter subjects the sensor to.  I'm certainly going to
try a diode as soon as I can AND measure the current to the sensor.

If you have one of these sensors and a DVM, check it on either low
ohms or "diode check".  If it conducts one direction (perhaps reading
about "0.6xx on the display) and infinite the other then it's probably
a diode.  If it reads the same resistance (about 10kohms) both
directions then it is a thermistor.  If it reads more resistance one
way than the other then it might be an LM-10.
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds.-Ralph Waldo Emerson

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Well, just got done watching it, and it was awsome! Poor Rich got picked on by 
Jesse a lot though. Getting all the work done that they did in a week is 
deffinitely impressive, of course a lot of it got done magically like the dual 
coupled motors just appearing.
   
  My single favorite part was when Shaun Lawless was tightening a cable to a 
buss bar on their battery racks with the batteries in the box. He shorted two 
with a wrench creating a nice big spark at which point he just goes back to 
tightening it some more, creates an even larger spark, throws the wrench on the 
floor and yells that he needs a new wrench!
   
  There was also a lot of technical stuff that was left on the cutting room 
floor. You don't get to see really any of the wireing of the car happen, you 
barely see Rich put the controllers in the car. I suppose this stuff isn't a 
big deal to the average viewer. 
   
  Rich and Shaun, I give you guys (and the others on the show of course) credit 
for getting that build done on time. Plus it was pretty cool they had the Tzero 
on there for a few minutes and let Rich drive it.
   
  I still gotta go check my other computer, which has my tv tuner card, but I 
should have it recorded.


Later,
Ricky
02 Insight
92 Saturn SC2 EV 144 Volt
Glendale, AZ USA
                
---------------------------------
New Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Call regular phones from your PC and save big.

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On 10 Apr 2006 at 20:22, Richard Acuti wrote:

> 1. What do you all typically use to insulate your tools for working around 
> high
> voltage? 

Good quality 3M electrical tape.  Others probably have better ideas.  You 
might try large-diameter heatshrink tubing.

>   a)  What are NiCad's flooded with? I don't imagine you add water as with PbA
> batteries.

The electrolyte is a solution of Potassium Hydoxide.  When it's low, you add 
distilled water, just as with a lead battery.  You should maintain 
completely separate watering tools for lead and nicad, as any acid 
contamination will ruin the nicads.

>   b)  What is the expected life span of a NiCad pack?

It depends on how it's used, but typically 2-4 times the life of an 
equivalent lead battery.  Some nicads have served for 10 - 15 years, even 
more.

>   c)  Will my old Lestermatic PbA battery charger work with NiCads? (220v 40
> amp charger)

It would require modification.  The charge control algorithm is wrong for 
nicads.  

>   d)  My (imperfect) understanding is that the NiCads will deliver the rated
> current right up until they are completely discharged unlike PbA's which drop
> in output even before the rated time (Puerket's Effect?) Am I understanding
> this correctly?

Nicads' voltage doesn't fall off very much until they are almost completely 
discharged.  Then it plummets.  This is both good and bad.  ;-)

Peukert's effect refers to how current drawn affects the apparent capacity 
of lead batteries.  It says nothing about their voltage on discharge.  It 
also doesn't apply to nicads.

>   e) What effect does cold weather have on NiCad's vs. PbA batteries? Does the
> range still decrease? How much?

Nicads have appreciably less capacity diminution with cold weather.  
However, most nicads are more sensitive to damage when operated in very hot 
climates, as are NiMH.  This makes them most suited to use in cooler 
climates.

Hope this helps.


David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator

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I understand that some may not want to join the Yahoo group.  But believe me 
there is a LOT of serious study going on and the members of Prius Technical 
Stuff are very knowledgable.  

If you're keen to hack a Prius, PTS is a much better source of info than 
this list, which after all is aimed mostly at true EVs, not at the Prius.  
I'm a member of PTS, and I find it very interesting.  Highly recommended.


David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator

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--- Begin Message ---
That was very cool. As a bonus a favorite local Mopar Master Ron
Jenkins brought a Hemi for some TSB's. Not to mention Tom Gage and the
Tzero were showcased. Those guys rock.

We got to get Shaun some EV wrenching lessons ;)

Rich, you were tolerant of all the crap for sure.

Mike





--- Ricky Suiter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Well, just got done watching it, and it was awsome! Poor Rich got
> picked on by Jesse a lot though. Getting all the work done that they
> did in a week is deffinitely impressive, of course a lot of it got
> done magically like the dual coupled motors just appearing.
>    
>   My single favorite part was when Shaun Lawless was tightening a
> cable to a buss bar on their battery racks with the batteries in the
> box. He shorted two with a wrench creating a nice big spark at which
> point he just goes back to tightening it some more, creates an even
> larger spark, throws the wrench on the floor and yells that he needs
> a new wrench!
>    
>   There was also a lot of technical stuff that was left on the
> cutting room floor. You don't get to see really any of the wireing of
> the car happen, you barely see Rich put the controllers in the car. I
> suppose this stuff isn't a big deal to the average viewer. 
>    
>   Rich and Shaun, I give you guys (and the others on the show of
> course) credit for getting that build done on time. Plus it was
> pretty cool they had the Tzero on there for a few minutes and let
> Rich drive it.
>    
>   I still gotta go check my other computer, which has my tv tuner
> card, but I should have it recorded.
> 
> 
> Later,
> Ricky
> 02 Insight
> 92 Saturn SC2 EV 144 Volt
> Glendale, AZ USA
>               
> ---------------------------------
> New Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Call regular phones from your PC and
> save big.
> 
> 


Here's to the crazy ones. 
The misfits. 
The rebels. 
The troublemakers. 
The round pegs in the square holes. 
The ones who see things differently
The ones that change the world!!

www.RotorDesign.com

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--- Begin Message ---
My family has owned a 1997 Mazda MPV for many years, but we blew the engine
about a year ago and it has been sitting in our driveway ever since.  We
decided to look into converting it into an alternative energy vehicle rather
than just buying a new engine or scrapping it.  Our kids are homeschooled
and we thought that it would be very educational all around, we would get to
keep our beloved mini-van, save the planet from a little pollution and
potentially wrestle ourselves from the soaring cost of petro-fuels.  As we
are newbies to this subject, we are sort of in the dark.

We were (are) very interested in BioDiesel, but from the data that we've
found, it seems that it is not possible to convert a gasoline powered car by
simply installing a diesel engine - so apparently that is not an option with
the MPV. Ethanol seems like a good option since the conversion looks fairly
straightforward and cheap, but is really predicated on having a reliable,
working engine.  Since the MPV is old and heavy I am a little concerned
about investing so much money to get it running well again.  EV seems like a
_great_ option in terms of being maintenable, but I am concerned that it is
too heavy.  Given the size of the vehicle, however, I am wondering how much
of the weight is currently in hardware that we would be removing anyway.

Can anyone give us some advice.

Thanks!

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have to agree with Ricky's assessment of this episode of Monster Garage. I 
recorded it from DirecTV and have edited out the commercials. It has been 
burned to DVD and saved to my pc hard drive.

Not sure how one would go about "sharing" this via the internet or if it is 
100% copyright free.  Check out Orb.com  I use it for accessing my files over 
the internet
Don Davidson
spaces.msn.com/dbd3

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Ricky Suiter<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
  To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu<mailto:ev@listproc.sjsu.edu> 
  Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2006 12:28 AM
  Subject: Monster Garage


  Well, just got done watching it, and it was awsome! Poor Rich got picked on 
by Jesse a lot though. Getting all the work done that they did in a week is 
deffinitely impressive, of course a lot of it got done magically like the dual 
coupled motors just appearing.
     
    My single favorite part was when Shaun Lawless was tightening a cable to a 
buss bar on their battery racks with the batteries in the box. He shorted two 
with a wrench creating a nice big spark at which point he just goes back to 
tightening it some more, creates an even larger spark, throws the wrench on the 
floor and yells that he needs a new wrench!
     
    There was also a lot of technical stuff that was left on the cutting room 
floor. You don't get to see really any of the wireing of the car happen, you 
barely see Rich put the controllers in the car. I suppose this stuff isn't a 
big deal to the average viewer. 
     
    Rich and Shaun, I give you guys (and the others on the show of course) 
credit for getting that build done on time. Plus it was pretty cool they had 
the Tzero on there for a few minutes and let Rich drive it.
     
    I still gotta go check my other computer, which has my tv tuner card, but I 
should have it recorded.


  Later,
  Ricky
  02 Insight
  92 Saturn SC2 EV 144 Volt
  Glendale, AZ USA

  ---------------------------------
  New Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Call regular phones from your PC and save 
big.

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--- Begin Message ---
Hello to Damon and All,

damon henry wrote:

Well, I have to admit I did not know that (I quit following the Honda Hybrid list a few years ago)

You don't have to follow the Honda Hybrid list, all you have to do is stay current with regular car magazines. Pretty much all of them have featured the latest improvements and changes of the new hybrids. The big news is that Honda's latest version of the Civic Hybrid can run a few miles on electric power only, just like the Prius does. Compared to Toyota's complex trio of an electric motor-generator, a generator, and an ICE all coupled together via sun-planetary gears, Honda gets it done in a far simpler, more elegant way with their IMA system (integrated motor assist) with just the one motor-generator (less than 3 inches thick) sandwiched between the tranny and the flywheel and sharing the ICE crankshaft...no extra gears, no convoluted electrical-mechanical swapping of power and loads.

>...but in my defense the particular engine being sold appears to be from an 05 Civic :-)

That's why I qualified that my comments were for the new 2006 model.

See Ya...John Wayland

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Tue, 11 Apr 2006 00:48:35 -0400, "Don Davidson"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>I have to agree with Ricky's assessment of this episode of Monster Garage. I 
>recorded it from DirecTV and have edited out the commercials. It has been 
>burned to DVD and saved to my pc hard drive.
>
>Not sure how one would go about "sharing" this via the internet or if it is 
>100% copyright free.  Check out Orb.com  I use it for accessing my files over 
>the internet

Could I talk you out of a copy of that file?  http://www.yousendit.com
works very well for anything under a gig.

Thanks,
John
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds.-Ralph Waldo Emerson

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Tue, 11 Apr 2006 00:23:57 -0400, Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:

>On Mon, 10 Apr 2006 15:36:54 -0000, "Mike Phillips"
><[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>>Actually 1N2535 is just their part number structure. Here's the link.
>>It looks like a potted part of some kind.
>>
>>http://www.evparts.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=435&product_id=1542
>
>Does anyone have one of these who can actually meter it and see what
>it is?  We have 3 versions on record now.
>
>a) Lee awhile back said that it is an LM-10 temperature transmitter.

Blew that one, didn't I?  LM-35.

I've been sitting here doing some calculating while looking at the
LM-35 app note (lee, is it Fig 5 or Fig 8?) and I can see why a 10k
thermistor would work well in the ambient temperatures we have around
here.

I use those cheapo indoor/outdoor electronic thermometers on my
refrigeration in the restaurant.  With semi-trained gorillas as
employees, they live hard lives and get replaced often.  Thus, I have
a large collection of temperature sensors, AKA thermistors.  The
thermometer usually has a 15 ft or more lead on the thermistor which
is perfect for use in a car.  On my MH, I encapsulated the sensor in
some 6mm glass tubing, bored a hole through one cap and inserted it
into the electrolyte.  It agrees within a degree of a
silicone-encapsulated thermocouple stuck into the same electrolyte.

John
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds.-Ralph Waldo Emerson

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---

steve clunn <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  I have a 300 zx , conversion with 25 
golfcart batteries , 1k zilla , 9 " net 
gain , power steering , power brakes . . The owner has moved and I have it 
up for sale at www.grassrootsev.com . I'm looking for somebody to be 
partners on this car while I keep it up for sale ( or buy it ) . It has 
almost new batteries , and sitting not the best for them . There are a few 
ods and ends that need attition , wiper motor , door handle , power window . 
I'm ready to make almost any deal , but will pick the best offer that comes 
along . I'd like to see this car in the Fort Pierce rally , diving in the 
distance comatition . steve clunn 772-971-0533 


Isn't diving usually for submarines?
                
---------------------------------
New Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Call regular phones from your PC and save big.
                
---------------------------------
How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messenger’s low  PC-to-Phone call rates.

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
 My family has owned a 1997 Mazda MPV for many years, but we blew the engine
about a year ago and it has been sitting in our driveway ever since.  We
decided to look into converting it into an alternative energy vehicle rather
than just buying a new engine or scrapping it.  Our kids are homeschooled
and we thought that it would be very educational all around, we would get to
keep our beloved mini-van, save the planet from a little pollution and
potentially wrestle ourselves from the soaring cost of petro-fuels.  As we
are newbies to this subject, we are sort of in the dark.

We were (are) very interested in BioDiesel, but from the data that we've
found, it seems that it is not possible to convert a gasoline powered car by
simply installing a diesel engine - so apparently that is not an option with
the MPV. Ethanol seems like a good option since the conversion looks fairly
straightforward and cheap, but is really predicated on having a reliable,
working engine.  Since the MPV is old and heavy I am a little concerned
about investing so much money to get it running well again.  EV seems like a
_great_ option in terms of being maintenable, but I am concerned that it is
too heavy.  Given the size of the vehicle, however, I am wondering how much
of the weight is currently in hardware that we would be removing anyway.

Can anyone give us some advice.

Thanks!

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 06:22 PM 4/10/2006, you wrote:
I have some general questions as I'm still a newbie:

1. What do you all typically use to insulate your tools for working around high voltage? I came within a millimeter of blowing myself across the parking lot and smoking my controller. I suppose I could wrap with electrical tape but is there anything better?

I wear thin blue rubber gloves while working on the pack. These prevent about 99% of the shocks you would get otherwise.

        Taped tools work surprisingly well.

Bill Dube'


2. Flooded NiCads were recommended to me by a list member. I have some questions but I don't think he's in town or my email isn't making it past his spam filter. So....

a) What are NiCad's flooded with? I don't imagine you add water as with PbA batteries.
 b)  What is the expected life span of a NiCad pack?
c) Will my old Lestermatic PbA battery charger work with NiCads? (220v 40 amp charger) d) My (imperfect) understanding is that the NiCads will deliver the rated current right up until they are completely discharged unlike PbA's which drop in output even before the rated time (Puerket's Effect?) Am I understanding this correctly? e) What effect does cold weather have on NiCad's vs. PbA batteries? Does the range still decrease? How much?

Thanks in advance,

Rich A.
81' Comuta Van
Maryland

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