EV Digest 5378
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Baby Blue Rides Again...cross country in an EV!
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Some problems to solve
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Some problems to solve
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Dead e-meter
by Mark Farver <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Some problems to solve
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Questions that should get me going, I hope
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: How to silence 60 cycle transformer buzz?
by Joel Hacker <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: How to silence 60 cycle transformer buzz?
by Joel Hacker <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) 88 Mitsu 4WD pickup update???
by mike golub <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) RE: Otmar's motor speed sensor - where to buy?
by Mike & Paula Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: How to silence 60 cycle transformer buzz?
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: license for electric bike in washington state?? tell me it aint
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: How to silence 60 cycle transformer buzz?
by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: How to silence 60 cycle transformer buzz?
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Questions that should get me going, I hope
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Genny
by Joel Hacker <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: How to silence 60 cycle transformer buzz?
by Joel Hacker <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) RE: 88 Mitsu 4WD pickup update???
by Mike & Paula Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Some problems to solve
by "Electric Man" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Anyone know about status of EMB's ?
by "peekay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Question about attaching Curtis 1221c to heatsink
by "Electric Man" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Crazy DC regen idea, thoughts, comments
by "Robert Chew" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Ok boy charger!
by "Robert Chew" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Freedom EV progress
by "jerryd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: How to silence 60 cycle transformer buzz?
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Another Tilley motor? Patent 6,246,561
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) EV Grin Coming Back
by <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to All,
I had written:
>I had also made it possible for Marko's Fiat to be equipped with the
same prototype group 31s, in fact, these two vehicles were the only >EVs
on the street with these hard-to-get batteries."
I heard from Rod who was quick to point out the following details:
>Actually we ran Group 31 Optimas in the British Land Rover with the
large and very prominent "P"s on them at Moab. There were >pictures of
the batteries in two major magazines, "Four Wheeler" and LRM (Land Rover
Magazine) from England.
I stand corrected...sort of :-) If I recall correctly, Rod got his group
31 YTs several months after I did, so at the time that Baby Blue and
Fiamp were running on them, we were indeed 'the only EVs using them'. If
you go to the photo at the following link, you can see that the two
center mounted group 31 YT's shown in Rod's EV have the retail
production lot labels on them, something that took a couple of months
for Optima to get around to doing after the initial prototype offer to me.
http://www.evparts.com/about/images/roverFaceOff/H18.jpg
I'm certain Rod will re-correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm pretty sure by
the time Rod figured out what I was up to, Optima had run out of enough
prototype batteries to fill his request for a full set of them, hence
the two later production batteries mixed in with the prototype models.
Ah, the good 'ol days back when Rod and I were EV rivals...now, it's
almost boring being good friends :-)
See Ya.....John Wayland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Multiple questions, Answers inserted.
2) There is a configuration problem between the regs and the charger. The
regs have the digital feedback modification but the charger is configured
for analog feedback regs. The best thing to do is change the components on
the charger control board to match the regs rather than change the regs to
match the charger. That way you only need to change one thing instead of
dozens of places. If you tell me (or Rich) the production configuration or
production date of the control board, we can tell you what components need
to be changed. If you are uncomfortable making the changes yourself, you can
send us the charger and we can make them for you.
Yes, the 1 amp is the amount of current necessary to fire the first
regulator. When the reg flashes, it turns off the charger instead of just
turning it down.
Yes, the 1 amp is probably going into the DCDC converter.
Yes, the problem manifests itself in a much larger way when it gets colder.
4) Yes, the emeter needs the charger to hold the 'charged parameters' for at
least a minute at end of charger before it considers the battery to be
charged. With the charger popping on and off, the charged parameters are
never met. You need to get the charger to stop banging on and off in order
for the emeter to be happy.
Yes, the lights dimming in unison with the reg light is another indication
you have digital cutback regs with an analog cutback charger.
The easiest way to make sure the engine compartment is safe is to have two
contactors between the battery compartment and the engine compartment. If
both the positive and negative pack leads are disconnected, nothing is hot
in the compartment and no shielding is needed.
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Shanab" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2006 8:47 AM
Subject: Some problems to solve
> I have a few problems to solve in my EV
> 2) Charger no longer lights the blue LED. It's acceptance voltage is set
> for 350 (14.7*24 would be 354) and the regs come on flashing, the
> charger output switches on and off rapidly unless I go turn down the
> current control and then I can't put more than 1 amp into the pack and
> the voltage with the green led's flashing about 1/sec. Voltage just
> hangs at 340 while 1 amp goes into pack, Is this 1 amp just going into
> heating? It seems as if the max bypass current of the regs is preventing
> the charger from pushing hard enough and it is just a push. My DC-DC
> converter is always connected to the pack, could that be the problem?
> It seemed to show up when the weather got colder...
>
> 4) Emeter has been useless, never resetting, never accurate, I am gonna
> go thru all the programming today and check all the regulator voltages
> when the start flashing.
>
> 5) lights on same circuit as charger in the house flicker in unison with
> reg flashes, Is this normal?
>
> I really should cover the
> entire hood opening with plexiglass to keep someone from getting shocked.?
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yes, equalization is a manual process.
It is not part of the profile.
To equalize:
Turn amps knob to zero.
Write down which switches are on.
Turn all switches off.
Turn Switch 6 on to set regs to equalize mode.
Turn voltage setpot up one turn.
Turn on charger.
Turn amps knob to 1 to 2 amps.
Measure voltage every 15 minutes.
Turn amps knob to zero when voltage stops rising.
Turn off charger.
Turn voltage setpot back down one turn.
Return switches to original positions.
You cannot run reg wires very far without having problems with the voltage
drops in the wires. There is a Kelvin connection on the regs. Remote
mounting regs requires all wires to be fused AT THE BATTERY using pack
voltage rated fuses. Don't share fuses. If a shared fuse blows, both regs
connected to that fuse will fail even if they were good when the fuse blew.
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Shanab" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2006 3:06 PM
Subject: Re: Some problems to solve
> So, the way I am understanding it, equalizing is a manual process done
> by us users, it is not part of the profile?
> How often should I do this on a pack of orbitals?
>
> Why not mount all the regs in a box inside the cabin, like behind the
> seat and run wires. It will take individual calibration to compensate
> for the voltage drop, or a kelvin connection, but it would work.
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I think I killed my Emeter.
To its credit, I did something stupid, and I probably deserve it. The
MR2 lacks good places to mount the emeter where the front panel buttons
are accessible. I've had the emeter unattractively ty-wrapped to the
top of the left dash pod as a stop gap for too long. So I gutted the
stock instrment cluster, and replaced the useless guages with a piece of
lexan for mounting the emeter on. Since the cluster will not allow me
to reach the front panel buttons I soldered one wire to each button and
carried them out of the case. A little testing showed that each button's
opposite side is common with the negative input terminal. So in theory
by grounding each wire to the emeter's ground (not the 12v frame ground)
I would be able to use remote buttons. The cruise control stalk has two
that might be ideal..
To make a long story short, I think one of the leads came in contact
with the chassis while I was hooking it up and now the emeter lights up
for a second and goes blank. The emeter makes a high pitched noise,
which leads my to suspect a power supply problem, but I measure +5v at
pins 1 and 2 of the connector leading to the display board. (and I
think I remember it always being noisy)
Can someone suggest something to test? Or should I give up?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The following discussion discusses only switches 1, 2, and 3.
Switches 4 through 8 are not discussed.
Turning 2 on takes precedence over turning 1 or 3 on.
Turning switch 1 on makes the timer run when the pack voltage setpoint is
reached.
Turning switch 3 on makes the timer run when the regs start regulating.
Typically you turn switch 1 on when you do not have regulators. Turning
switch 3 on will have no effect if you do not have regulators.
A couple cautions:
If you have 1) the pack voltage set too high and 2) you have regulators
holding the pack voltage down and 3) only switch 1 is on, then the timer
will never start because the pack never reaches pack voltage to start the
timer.
If you have 1) the pack voltage set too low and 2) you have regulators and
3) only switch 3 is on, then the timer will never start because the
regulators do not get activated to start the timer.
You should have both switches 1 and 3 on if you want the timer to run if
either the pack voltage regulation is holding the charger current down or
the regulators are holding the charger current down.
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Shanab" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2006 3:06 PM
Subject: Re: Some problems to solve
> PS I think you meant if I was NOT using the MK2s keep 1,2,3 on and maybe
> that is even "1 or 2 or 3" ??
> I have the manual, but some of it I found confusing.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The charger will need to supply your watt hours per mile times the speed of
the vehicle.
For example: if you use 300 watt hours per mile and travel at 60 MPH, then
the charger will need to provide 18000 watts plus about 10 to 20% to make up
for the Charging Efficiency Factor of the battery. You will also need a pack
capable of soaking up energy at this rate.
If you travel slower, the charger can be smaller.
If you need to travel 10 minutes on a 20 minute charge, the charger will
need to be only half as large.
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2006 6:51 PM
Subject: Questions that should get me going, I hope
> How fast a charger could I make? (If it could do 10 miles on 10 minutes of
> charge that would be lovely, or even something like 10 miles on 20 minutes
> of charge.)
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Check your power factor...if you are supplying an all
inductive load, there may be ways to correct it.
Ryan Stotts wrote:
I have some audible transformers. What are my options to silence them?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
What is vacuum bag epoxy, and how do you use it
to "deaden" the sound of the transformer?
James Massey wrote:
At 05:17 PM 16/04/06 -0500, Ryan wrote:
I have some audible transformers. What are my options to silence them?
Depending on how big they are, how heavily loaded, etc, there are a few
things, but the most effective for smaller transformers seem to be:
1) Vacuum bag epoxy or
2) fully potting the transformer (put the transformer into a plastic box
and fill the rest of the space with a potting compound - wax, bitumen,
epoxy, or a proprietary potting resin)
The down side of potting is the transformer can overheat if it is
running at the limit as it is.
Hope this helps
James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mike,
I was wondering if ever got that adaptor plate back
from www.electroauto.com.
Later...
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
This is bolt on if you don't have a tail shaft. If you have a tail shaft
you'll have to build a plate and stand it off from the face of the motor in
a way that you can still run the accessories you have planned for the tail
shaft.
Has anyone done this?
Mike
Anchorage, Ak.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Nick
Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2006 11:08 AM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Otmar's motor speed sensor - where to buy?
Thanks!
Ryan Stotts wrote:
> Nick wrote:
>
>> Does
>> anyone know how I can order one of these, or if there is another source?
>
> Here:
>
> http://www.evsource.com/tls_speedsensor.php
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
YOu have to send them to a motor shop and have them revarnished. My
solution however was to put the offending charger in my sub basement.
Lawrence Rhodes.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan Stotts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2006 3:17 PM
Subject: How to silence 60 cycle transformer buzz?
I have some audible transformers. What are my options to silence them?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> Ahh, so 1kW = 1HP? Still not used to converting electric power ratings
> to HP.
Not exactly. 1hp = aproximately 746 watts.
However, assuming average efficiency, a motor with 1kw of electrical imput
power will produce approximately 1hp of mechanical output power.
>
> I'm sure there are some cops that will give you a hard time until you
> show that the power level is below 1HP.
Actually, the chances are they won't know and won't care. If you don't
make a nuisance of yourself then they will probably leave you alone.
Up until they came out with the federal definition of an e-bike Arizona
had no allowance for them. ANYTHING with a motor on it was considered a
moped and required a drivers license.
None of the cops in my town were aware of this nor was anyone at the DMV.
There were numerous unregistered e-bikes, e-scooters, etc. around and the
cops couldn't care less.
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Mon, 17 Apr 2006 01:07:10 -0500, Joel Hacker <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
>What is vacuum bag epoxy, and how do you use it
>to "deaden" the sound of the transformer?
The correct term in the motor and transformer industries is "VPI" or
Vacuum-Pressure Impregnation. This involves putting the device in a
tank, pulling a vacuum on the tank, introducing the impregnant, then
pressurizing the tank to force the impregnant into all voids.
One can substitute a plastic bad for the tank but the results aren't
nearly as satisfactory.
Epoxy as the impregnant is hugely overkill for this type of problem.
As is VPI at all.
The most simple method of eliminating vibrational noise is to take the
transformer to a motor repair shop and have it "dipped and baked" or
if you have an oven in your shop (don't even think about doing this
inside the house!), dipped only and baked at home.
This involves dipping the object in a special thermoset motor varnish
that is in turn cured by baking in an oven. The resulting rock-hard
varnish glues everything together and very nicely dampens all the
vibrations. Any motor repair or transformer rewinding shop will have
a large tank of this stuff.
This is my standard treatment for high noise rated ballasts that are
going to be used indoors.
Note that this does NOT completely quiet the noise caused by
magnetostriction. Since that is a characteristic of the core material
itself, you're pretty much stuck with that noise. Dipping and baking
will dampen it a lot but not get rid of it.
John
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds.-Ralph Waldo Emerson
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
You might wanna look carefully at some of this stuff. Transformers can
get pretty hot. Their power rating was for its original condition. A
lot of this stuff can dramatically affect the rating, particularly if
it's thick.
Also something like wax can't withstand the max operating temp of the
transformer itself either. It can even become quite flammable. I'd
stick with a professional process.
But also, as mentioned, power factor is something else to consider.
Danny
James Massey wrote:
Depending on how big they are, how heavily loaded, etc, there are a
few things, but the most effective for smaller transformers seem to be:
1) Vacuum bag epoxy or
2) fully potting the transformer (put the transformer into a plastic
box and fill the rest of the space with a potting compound - wax,
bitumen, epoxy, or a proprietary potting resin)
The down side of potting is the transformer can overheat if it is
running at the limit as it is.
Hope this helps
James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Beggin your pardon Joe, but the speed of the vehicle has absoultely
NOTHING to do with the size of the charger.
It depends on the watts hrs per mile and the DISTANCE traveled, times how
fast you want to charge.
In the example of the Fetish (10 miles for a 10 minute charge) if we
assume the vehicle uses 200 whr/mile, then for 10 miles we need approx
2kwh. Assuming or batteries are 80% charge efficient, and our charger is
80% efficient then we need to draw 3.125 kwh from the outlet. To do this
in 10 minutes (1/6 of an hour) we need to draw 18.75 kw from the outlet.
I believe the NEC requires that the average draw on the outlet not exceed
80% of the outlet's max current rating, so that means we need an outlet
rated for at least 23.5 kw.
That's almost 15 times as much as your average 110V outlet is rated for,
over twice as much power as a 220V / 50 amp dryer outlet is rated for. In
fact it's more than the main service panel on many US homes can handle.
You are going to need a 220V 100 amp service panel just to handle the
charger. Of course this isn't going to be any problem for someone than
can afford a Fetish or a Scion or even the $40,000 for a LiIon battery
pack.
> The charger will need to supply your watt hours per mile times the speed
> of
> the vehicle.
>
> For example: if you use 300 watt hours per mile and travel at 60 MPH, then
> the charger will need to provide 18000 watts plus about 10 to 20% to make
> up
> for the Charging Efficiency Factor of the battery. You will also need a
> pack
> capable of soaking up energy at this rate.
>
> If you travel slower, the charger can be smaller.
>
> If you need to travel 10 minutes on a 20 minute charge, the charger will
> need to be only half as large.
>
> Joe Smalley
> Rural Kitsap County WA
> Fiesta 48 volts
> NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Alan Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2006 6:51 PM
> Subject: Questions that should get me going, I hope
>
>
>
>> How fast a charger could I make? (If it could do 10 miles on 10 minutes
>> of
>> charge that would be lovely, or even something like 10 miles on 20
>> minutes
>> of charge.)
>>
>
>
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I don't think there is anything confusing about it. It is
not common to see them here in the U.S. because NEC specifies
that ONLY one wire/side/leg can be "HOT" and the other "leg"
MUST be neurtral, and must always remain at 0 volts in a standard
110 volt AC setup.
Until this post, I had not yet heard of a 55/55 or 60/60 volt
system. The only center tapped (residential) systems that are
commonly familiar with is when two 120 volt lines (180 degres
apart in phase) enter your house and are "ganged" together to
form 240 VAC at 60Hz.
Evan Tuer wrote:
What's confusing about it exactly?
Centre-tapped 110V windings are universal and standard (and required)
for building site generators. It means that there is 55VAC to
"ground" on each "leg".
On 4/13/06, Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
This is a confusing answer,
centre-tapped implies that twice the voltage is available.
Since this persion is in Europe and explicitly states it is 110V,
not 230V, my guess it that it is not in the gen head.
You could buy it if it goes for cheap and rewind the head or
even use a 110:230V transformer if you do not like tearing into
the set.
Last resort ;-) is to ask the seller which type he is selling and
looking up the specs.
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Evan Tuer
Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2006 4:35 AM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Genny
On 4/12/06, John Luck Home <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I wonder if anyone on the list is familiar with the 3Kva Honda Generator
on
ebay - item 7609509034.
It says there are two 110v sockets but I want to know if I can series
these
up to produce 220volts or whether they are simply two parallel sockets.
I would have though Honda would have made just one type of generator for
both European and the US market where they could run the output windings
as
two separate 110volt outputs or one 220volt output.
It's a site generator. They have a single 110V winding,
centre-tapped. I sincerely doubt that the generator is made or
assembled by Honda anyway, only the engine is.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The only reason that I mention power factor is that I have
recently seen a little self imposed correction has worked
on motors (and transformers) in my own home, and recently
I helped a friend fix a 480 volt telco rectifier that
quieted down as soon as we added some capacitance to cancel
compensate for the lagging current in some non-related
inductive motors...just something to think about...what
else is on that circuit that you are using?
A. A refrigerator
B. A dehumidifier
C. A blower
Danny Miller wrote:
You might wanna look carefully at some of this stuff. Transformers can
get pretty hot. Their power rating was for its original condition. A
lot of this stuff can dramatically affect the rating, particularly if
it's thick.
Also something like wax can't withstand the max operating temp of the
transformer itself either. It can even become quite flammable. I'd
stick with a professional process.
But also, as mentioned, power factor is something else to consider.
Danny
James Massey wrote:
Depending on how big they are, how heavily loaded, etc, there are a
few things, but the most effective for smaller transformers seem to be:
1) Vacuum bag epoxy or
2) fully potting the transformer (put the transformer into a plastic
box and fill the rest of the space with a potting compound - wax,
bitumen, epoxy, or a proprietary potting resin)
The down side of potting is the transformer can overheat if it is
running at the limit as it is.
Hope this helps
James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
uh...no. But I just filled up the gasser and so have two more weeks of
fuel.
I got the PFC-20 and Zilla mounted in tonight and am still wiring the HEPI
pedal. Batteries are in place and strapped but not yet wired to the Zilla.
I forgot to show you the drop in replacement LED signal/tail lamps when you
were over. They're just as bright as the originals. You don't realize
there is actualy a noticable delay for the brake lights to come on until you
drop an LED in one side and compare them.
Once my adaptor plate comes in I'll get the motor in and be happy to start
passing gas, stations :-O
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of mike golub
Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2006 10:11 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: 88 Mitsu 4WD pickup update???
Mike,
I was wondering if ever got that adaptor plate back
from www.electroauto.com.
Later...
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Jeff wrote:
> Emeter, well, we shall see. It still didn't reset I will do it manually
> since I have changed a parameter and see if that takes care of it. It
> meats the criteria they say in their book, so Ther must be more to the
> story than they are letting on.
Remember that the e-meter will not reset automatically unless 10% or more of
the charge is used.
Bob
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
joined there
tks 4 the info
i guess i will be able to get info on EMB's from there for sure
..peekay
(this thread ends here on this list !)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan Stotts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2006 8:03 AM
Subject: Re: Anyone know about status of EMB's ?
> On 4/15/06, James Massey wrote:
>
> > (except I've mislaid the subscibe information to EVtech list, link
someone?)
>
>
> http://evtech.org/
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.4.1/312 - Release Date: 14/04/2006
>
>
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I have a five gallon pail with about 4 gallons in it. I also have very nice
black anodized enclosure / heatsinks of extruded aluminum (modular design).
The heatsinks are 26.25" long and are drilled and tapped for the 1221, as
well as various other devices. I originally designed the housing to contain
all of the electronics required for a EV (NEV's to light road cars) to
create a 'plug and play' situation for production and ease of service. Now I
use them in various configurations and lengths to suit many needs (because
they are essentially surplus inventory and convenient). If you are
interested contact me off list.
I prefer to mount the Curtis upside down. Aside from better thermal
efficiency, chance of water or dropped hardware accumulating near the bus
bars is reduced.
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Freidberg" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2006 12:16 PM
Subject: Re: Question about attaching Curtis 1221c to heatsink
1. Where can below-mentioned heatsink compound be purchased?
2. Okay to install Curtis upside down so heatsink is on top?
(Reason for doing this would be to make it easier to draw air across the
heatsink fins with a fan.)
Mark
Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Mark Freidberg wrote:
> Is heatsink compound necessary? I've never used it before, is it an
adhesive or just a thermal transfer agent?
It isn't necessary, but it will work better with it. Neither the controller
nor the heatsink will be all that flat. If you just stick them together,
there will be a small air space between them in all but a few spots. Air is
a lousy conductor of heat; almost anything is better.
Heatsink compound is basically grease with powdered "something" to act as a
filler; typically zinc oxide or gypsum. Using it will greatly
reduce the temperature difference between the heatsink and controller (i.e.
it makes the controller run cooler).
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Fixed problem!!
Yes, it was the small inductance i had. I now have a 9mH air core inductor.
And finally forked out $1 for a TO-220 heatsink and some heatsink grease.
Damn, i could have saved $30 worth of MOSFETs.
Worked well, got the 58watt Suntech panel to charge up 24 volt SLA at 1 amp
output. Don't know where the current output of the models are, but i
adjusted the voltage at the panel to around 16.5 volts, very close to MPP
current output, but it was sunset time so i don't think the current output
would have been huge or near its rated 3.12 amps.
Will try 36 volt nominal output from panels to my 72 volt nominal to my car
tommorow morning. Hopefully all goes well.
Thanks for your input guys!
Cheers
From: Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Crazy DC regen idea, thoughts, comments
Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2006 00:43:23 -0500
Better place to take this off-topic problem:
http://www.electro-tech-online.com/index.php
But to answer your question, one of three things is likely happening. If
your inductance value is too low and the required on-time at this freq is
so high that the current rises to an unnecessarily high level this can
happen, and/or the inductor is saturating. When the DC value of the
current reaches the inductor's saturation current level, the inductor will
basically stop being an inductor and is like a dead short. The current
will get high.
Also too slow a switching time is a very typical and likely problem. You
need to see the output on a scope.
You have a tricky situation. A solar panel is a constant current output
and a battery is a dynamic load, really you don't care about output voltage
so much as maximizing the output current as long as the charge state is
under 100%. This is why the maximum power point tracker was designed.
Also if it's a boost converter as you mention, the input stage is not just
a filter but has to be an energy buffer to fully utilize the solar panel's
energy output. If you only take current off the panel during the on-state
of the dc/dc, the current the panel could have produced during the
off-period is ignored. A large LC filter is very helpful, this is a design
concern that needs to be integrated into the other issues.
There are actually quite a few issues, perhaps too much to discuss here.
Danny
Robert Chew wrote:
Hi Lee,
I have designed and built a DC boost convertor for my solar panel charging
of my traction pack.
Driving the gate of the IRF540N mosfet with a 6 amp mosfet driver IC and
using a PWM chip. The gate drive voltage is 12.4 volts which is higher
than the Vgs value of 10 volts to achieve the minimum drain to source
resistance.
However, my mosfet is overheating like mad, i have totalled four mosfets
already by passing only 400ma to the batteries.
What could be going wrong. I have got a 4.7 ohm gate resistor in there to
minimise the ringing, although at such low frequencies, 20 kHz there is
minimal ringing.
Could it be the value of my inductor, i simply choose any inductor i could
get my hands on.
If so what would be a method to size my inductor for my needs.
Cheers for your help.
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Hi All,
I am trialling my Ok boy charger for my EV. Well, it was sorta a bad, but
not so bad boy charger before i had put the filter caps on them.
I used two toroid transformers, rated at 300 VA each, 36 volt and 8.33 Amps
each. I had shorted two previous transformers out due to my stupidity and my
cheap skateness of not having a cooling fan.
Damn, thank god for warranties!
But with the massive 120mm 240Vac cooling fan on top of the overcrowded
chassis i built on, the unit has been working fine for the three weeks since
its been installed.
They run at 800-850 watts combined during the bulk phase of charging, not
bad, considered they are rated at 300 VA, just need cooling, the secret
ingredient.
Other than that, a simple bridge rectifier and couple of chassis mount caps
is all you need for a good reliable charger. Oh and a mains operated
timer....very important!
At the moment everything is just wired pretty messy in the back seat till i
am satisfied with its reliability.
When the batteries are full, the charger puts out 4-5amps, is that too
high??
Cheers...Go toroids.
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Hi Bob and All,
Things have been rather slow getting the
Freedom EV going lately though it keeps inching along.
The chassis mold is now done though I've
changed the composite layup, structural several times. While
I have done a lot of composite work, it's the first time
doing a road vehicle chassis other than wood/epoxy so still
having a debate raging in my head over exactly how to do it.
The main problem is supporting 800 lbs or so of batteries
between the front wheels in a 550lb EV that bounces down the
highway!!!
Why doing it right the first time is if I
blow it, it will cost money I don't have. But by the end of
the week there should be a chassis ready to epoxy the body
too. This also goes for how, where to cut the doors, hood,
windshield where a wrong cut could ruin it.
My welder has returned from his travels so
the suspension will be built soon though I still have to
decide just which motor(s) to use for the rear trailing arm
drive/suspension design.
Other progress is tracking down all that
little stuff you need to build an EV from scratch. The EV
actually is the easy parts thanks to our excellant EV supply
houses.
Probably the biggest problem is the doors
and how to open the windows. I now have 2 good ways to go so
a big relief there.
Thanks,
Jerry Dycus
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James Massey wrote:
Ryan wrote:
> I have some audible transformers. What are my options to silence them?
Lots of good comments on this, but before you go to the trouble of
vacuum varnish dipping the transformer, there are some simpler things to
try.
First, what is holding the core of the transformer together? Screws or
bolts? Make sure they are tight. Is it just a simple pressure clamp, as
found on small inexpensive transformer? It may well be loose.
Second, are the windings and/or bobbin loose and rattling on the core?
They should not move at all; they are supposed to be a tight fit, or
glued in place by the varnish dip, or wedged tight with shims.
Third, is the transformer weakly mounted, so that it can vibrate the
case or mounting surface like a sounding board? If this is the problem,
leaning on the case or lifting one corner will significantly affect the
sound. Tighten screws, add braces, or make other structural improvements
to the case to fix it.
Is the transformer being overloaded? Transformer noise goes up FAST if
you overload it, as the core goes into saturation.
Is the transformer already varnish-dipped? It should be, but cheap
transformers sometimes omit this step to save money. If you don't see
any evidence that it's been dipped, then this will indeed help to "glue"
everything together and quiet it down. A full-blown vacuum impregated
oven cured dip in transformer varnish is ideal, but even a dunking in a
bucket of household varnish and a week to air-dry will do 90% of the
job.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
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I just seen this in www.e-driveonline.com from Flynn
Research,
http://www.flynnresearch.net/our_patent.htm
they even have an independent yahoo group,
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/parallelpath/
thought some of the motor designers would be
interested.
Rod
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Hi EVerybody;
FINALLY got the Rabbit back together to take it out for a spin last nite!
Been EV less for a few months, as I HAD to do some remedial work to get the car
reasonably presentable again. Like fix the cabin floor, so it didn't resemble
the Fred Flintstone mobile!Restructuring wall to wall floors was a major
project if you E Ver did any rust repair, you start out like your friendly
dentist to " drill" out the old rot to fil the space with new structure. The
cutting grinder and Saber saw unveil a dismaying amount of blight pretty quick!
Well, actually it wasn't too bad. Braized in new steel, I don't weld , gas,
worth a hoot , so just used coted brass brazing rods. the temps are a tad more
dbenein than gas welding. Electric, well with my old AC Buzz box? 'Aint THAT
good. Needless to say I'm very pleased with how it turned out. It is sorta fun
"Tacking a new steel piece, heating it cherry red and " Molding" it to fit the
wierd contours of a car floor.
Well, maybe I'm breating a dead horse? But the car had been a faithful
runner for 6 years, and I just want a basic daily dribver again. Not sop
demanding, now, as being retired I won't be pushing it 60 miles or more EVery
day.While it was up on blox, went after OTHER nagging issues; The Damn
VIBRATION thing! Car was beginning to sound like a Diseasel Rabbit again, as
the car had started out life as a Diesel, well, you know. But that silken ride
you EVer's take for granted? It isn't only John Wayland that had balancing
issues with a driveline. Tore down the motor/tranny and found 8 mm of play in
the Moytor shaft and inner bearing race! Doesn't sound like a lot, but just
running the motor on the garage floor? Gees! What a grinding racket! Had my
local machinist build up and cut the shaft down to 35mm, as ADV had built it
years ago, so I have to PREEE on the bearing, like EVerybody else.What a
differance, motor just whispers along, had him cut the between the brushes
ridges !
down, and polish the comm, brushes, plenty left.Would leave the motor running
on 12 volts to reseat the brushes and forget about it, it was so quiet!
Then to do my flywheel magic. We chucked it into the big lathe and started
cutting. It went on it's weight loss program, from 14 to 6 lbs! While on a roll
here talked to my local VW Garu and to address my clutch slipping issue we
went to a Sirraco pressure plate and disc. Wow! the clutch is stronger now!
Have to PUSH harder to shift, but I'll get used to that, I'm sure?Put a newer 5
speed in, filled her with the Red auto tranny fluid, to let it turn easier. Hey
John Wayland? What was that stuff you sent me to get for the Zombie's rear
end??It was at your local Speed Shop, was rather pricy, but was supposed to do
good stuff in a Ford Rear end?? I figure that if it is strong enough to lube
Zombies' gears, It would handle Rabbit gears, just fine? Amzoil? Purple
something?It was about 8 bux a quart, but maybe ya get what you pay for?
Well, after the family Easter Dinner, I decided to push for getting the
wheels to turn again. Hooked up the hypowr cables, controller, charger, FINALLY
built thre PFC 20 in after redecorating under the hood, so both the Rapter AND
trhe PFC live closly together, AND I can close the hood<g>!They are damn BIG
boxes to stuff in there. A new plywood mounting board went in. I HATE that
setup, but I need SOMETHING to stop the water from splashing into the
controller and charger. Like the motor is TOTALLY covered. You can'tr point to
the big black, round thing and say" That's the Motor" any more.I hope
controller maker/ s will build more water resistant stuff, like Alltrax, they
say ya can hose off one of their controllers? Well, I wouldn't go quite THAT
far. It's a harsh environment under the hood on Any car , for sure!
Poped the fuses in and turned the key! Ah! the familiar windup of a Rapture!
(Rapter) Line switch pulls in and it TURNS! Almost silently. Gotta go for a
spin, to break in the T 145's! Off down the road, did about 3 miles at about
100 amps or less. Grees when the car doesn't have to fight an inbalance thing,
it just wafts along effortlessly. Nio traffic out I could creep along, 25-30,
letting the battery come to life, well AFTER a long daze equilazation charge,
to start with. Bring it in to the garage, plugitin a few hours and do another
couple of miles. I will do my "Thing" with it today, run some erands, that I
woulda used the Gas Rig, Prius, for.
Lottsa loose ends to do; clean up the wiring a bit, hook up the DC to dc
converter, the vacuum pump, put the cover on the rear battery box, but the
thousand of little details that I had thought I'd wanted to do, but didn't want
to take the car out of service to work on.Gees! the battery's are all covered!
No more short circuses throwing a bike in back, anymore or steel garbage cans
to go to the dump!Have a few holy garbage cans from them rolling onto the
battery posts!Now I have a flat cargo, pass. carrying area in back, now.
Hava 'bout a weak to get it detailed out to show at a Earth Day(remember
those?) Show that WPKN Radio is doing over in Woodbury CT, just west of
Waterbury. We may be able to round up an EV or two. Bill Glickman wuill have
his 120 volt VW bug ready, too.Any OTHER takers? I know I can count the number
of operating electric cars in CT on the fingers of ONE hand! Sigh. But we are
working on that. Now idf somebody will give Jack Gretta's MG Midget a loving
home. It WAS up on E bay, did anybody on the List buy it?The ONLY one for sale
in Chester, CT.
So , after taking it for a spin, cleaned up the garage, vacuumed the
carpet. What? You don't have a carpeted garage? With an EV you can, mo
drippies, Ah! the luxury! Yeah, your wife may not go for NEW stuff at 45 bux a
square yard, but I did my shopping at our friendly dump, which has a no
questions asked exchange policy. Picked up a 12 by 14 or so navy blue, Soooo
nice when working on a car to be on the soft carpet to crawl under with, and
becides, adds a touch of class to any garage<g>!
On the Joliet thing, thinking of bringing the Rabbit now. The more the
merrier! John Wayland just chimed in with a" whose coming from Out West."
Howbout the REST of the country. Matt Greham? Gunna b ring yours up?Would be
cool to see the steller cars from ALL over thre place on one trak!?Bob Salem,
ya GOTTA be there, too?The Shawn Lawless " Fleet" The Netgain Guyz? I know it's
a bit far for Dennis and the Current Eliminater? If I had Osama's money I would
send a charter Cargo Plane all around the country to do a pickup run<g>! Get
Rob Neighbours, our resident pilot, to drive it!
It's morning now, gotta go do a few soft miles 'round the block to wake up
the batteries, do some more " Detail" stuff. It'ssorta like starting all over
witha new EV. It sure is nice to HAVE the EV running again. With gas at 3 bux
plus for the good stuff, regular is still a 285 as I write this, but with
spring here. AHHH, It is beautiful today, in the 60's with 70's promised
tomorrow, i'm SURE gas will easily pass 3 bux a gal.
Just reading our local Paper the New Haven Register, big article on the local
CT power chrisis. Seems that they the dundereheads that Deregulated
electricity, forcing the power Co's to SELL their power plants, are having
second thoughts/ DUH! Nobody can build powerplants here in NIMBY land, so
NOBODY did,Christ! You ought to see the fights JUST to string new Hy tension
lines, arounfd here!! to give the local setup any competition. So now Gasp! It
has been suggested that C L, and P, That;'s Conn. Light and Power,to you
tourists, to build some NEW power plants. And if they owned/ ran them, they
could provide power at a lesser cost? Well, it workred just fine since the dawn
of the electric age, in Corrupticut or CA or anywhere else people made
electricity, for commercial use. WHYTHEHELL do we have to repeat history
again?With 16 cents , and counting,a KWH nowadaze an EV will be a costly mode
of travel, when ya figure in battery replavcement and whatnot. After all, we
are flyi!
ng under the radar, as Neon John puts it.Hell in OR you have an extra tax on
Hybrids and EV's because they are , well, economical, God forbid! What next? A
tax on the square footage of your solar roof array? :"Revinuers ", in choppers
looking for your solar panels?
Back on topic a bit. I KNOW it's a BIG drive for anyvbody to Illinous,
especially from the far Left Coast. Really appreciate all yuouse guyz are doing
for the Family. Grindingly long daze on the road and 3 bux a gal gas, but you
will still make it. My hat's off to you all and a big THANKS for putting up
with the Drive and doing it.We Least Coasters, Hell, Chicago IS East coast for
you guyz from the Electric Triangle area.That trip is a pleasure in a Prius,
but in a tow rig? Well, long daze on the road!
Looking forward to a BIG EV time mext month!
Seeya there
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