EV Digest 5377
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Otmar's motor speed sensor - where to buy?
by Nick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Knee Point - Does anyone understand this?
by "David Roden (Akron OH USA)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Question about attaching Curtis 1221c to heatsink
by Mark Freidberg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) 12V East Penn EV31
by "jmygann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: license for electric bike in washington state?? tell me it aint
by Stefan Peters <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: license for electric bike in washington state?? tell me it aint
by Nick Viera <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: High-Watts/Low-Watts
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Some problems to solve
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Fw: "Who Killed the Electric Car" NEWS April 2006
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) How to silence 60 cycle transformer buzz?
by "Ryan Stotts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) RE: Lee's Half-Pack Comparator
by "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: How to silence 60 cycle transformer buzz?
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Question about attaching Curtis 1221c to heatsink
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Some problems to solve
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: High-Watts/Low-Watts
by "Mark Grasser" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: EVers in Ohio
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
17) Re: EVers in Ohio
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
18) Re: High-Watts/Low-Watts
by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) RE: 12V East Penn EV31
by "John Foster" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Questions that should get me going, I hope
by "Alan Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Baby Blue Rides Again...cross country in an EV!
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: High Voltage Nationals
by "BFRListmail" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Cushman in need of conversion
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
24) Re: Question about attaching Curtis 1221c to heatsink
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: Questions that should get me going, I hope
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks!
Ryan Stotts wrote:
Nick wrote:
Does
anyone know how I can order one of these, or if there is another source?
Here:
http://www.evsource.com/tls_speedsensor.php
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I believe the knee point is the point in either the motor's RPM, or in
accelerator position (more likely the latter) when the controller starts the
field
weakening. (Stronger field => more torque; Weaker field => higher speed).
This is a matter of mating the motor and controller. Such a setting is not
normally something an end-user would change, or need to, unless he were
trying to use a motor that's different from the one the controller were set up
for. In that case it would require considerable knowledge and testing to set
it, so again something that one would do only with quite a bit of experience
and understanding of motor theory.
A shunt or sep-ex motor can't be used as a series motor. They are very
different beasts.
Sometimes you can use one >with a series motor controller< by providing
constant voltage to the field, but you have to make sure that the armature is
never powered before the field is energized. Your top RPM will usually be
lower when you do this, since the field weakening goes away.
Careful, you are tinkering with expensive bits there!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
1. Where can below-mentioned heatsink compound be purchased?
2. Okay to install Curtis upside down so heatsink is on top?
(Reason for doing this would be to make it easier to draw air across the
heatsink fins with a fan.)
Mark
Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Mark Freidberg wrote:
> Is heatsink compound necessary? I've never used it before, is it an
adhesive or just a thermal transfer agent?
It isn't necessary, but it will work better with it. Neither the controller nor
the heatsink will be all that flat. If you just stick them together, there will
be a small air space between them in all but a few spots. Air is a lousy
conductor of heat; almost anything is better.
Heatsink compound is basically grease with powdered "something" to act as a
filler; typically zinc oxide or gypsum. Using it will greatly
reduce the temperature difference between the heatsink and controller (i.e. it
makes the controller run cooler).
---------------------------------
Love cheap thrills? Enjoy PC-to-Phone calls to 30+ countries for just 2¢/min
with Yahoo! Messenger with Voice.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Any opinions on these for a 72 volt system ??
Used in the Dynasty EV
http://www.evworld.com/view.cfm?section=communique&newsid=8442
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Roy LeMeur wrote:
Basically there are only three qualifications to be a federally legal
electric bike which is a consumer product not subject to license,
registration, nor insurance.-
*at or less than 1 horsepower
*operational pedal drive
*no more than 20mph top speed without pedaling
That is it. And don't let any cop tell you otherwise :^D
Washington State is even more generous.
These links should do ya-
http://www.electricvehiclesnw.com/main/rcw.htm
http://www.electric-bikes.com/leglWA.htm
Good Luck!
Ahh, so 1kW = 1HP? Still not used to converting electric power ratings
to HP.
Sorry, my bad... I guess the lesson here is to check the power rating
and top speed before buying a two or three wheeled e-something in
Washington.
I'm sure there are some cops that will give you a hard time until you
show that the power level is below 1HP. The registration of a moped *is*
pretty minor, just thirty dollars and a VIN and you get a little sticker
to slap on the back. Kinda like permitting a boat. No vehicle excise
tax, either.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi,
Stefan Peters wrote:
Ahh, so 1kW = 1HP? Still not used to converting electric power ratings
to HP.
No.
746 Watts = 1 HP = 550 ft-lbs. per second
You can always Google for unit conversions...
--
-Nick
1988 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 EV
http://go.DriveEV.com/
http://www.ACEAA.org/
--------------------------
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to All,
Ricky Suiter wrote:
55Watt low, 65 watts high.... or 120 watts if you light both filaments at the
same time.
Bill Dennis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: In Pep Boys, the headlight replacement
bulbs say: 65W/55W. Does this mean
that low beams take 55W and high beams take 65W, or does it mean that low
beams take 55W, and high beams draw a combined 120W? Thanks.
Correct info on 55W low, 65W high, but do not try running both filaments
at the same time, as you're asking for the bulb to fail in short order.
The bulb is not designed to have both filaments on at the same time. You
can get away with it for short periods, but anything longer than a 10 or
15 seconds is asking for over-heating and burn-out.
When I had my '78 Porsche 911SC many years ago, I swapped out the stock
American market headlamps for the European slant lense aero types. These
came with twin H1 bulbs instead of the single dual filament style H4
style 55/65 bulbs. With separate bulbs physically spaced away from each
other, one for low beam, one for high beam, you can safely run both low
and high beam at the same time...cool. I rewired the factory harness
with 10 gauge and relayed-it all up appropriately, then installed 130
watt H1 rally bulbs. I adjusted the lows so that they did not shine in
oncoming driver's eyes but still really flooded the front with a blanket
of super white light, and adjusted the hi beams to start where the lows
faded out down the road. I also installed Cibe' model 35 high speed
driving lights with a bow tie projection pattern fitted with 100W H2
bulbs, that were nearly identical in size and shape to the funky factory
fog lights I had pulled, and again, had the appropriate heavy duty
wiring and relay. Finally, I used a beefed up 140 amp alternator to feed
the affair. I had the lights set up so that on high beam, the low beam
would stay on which gave 520 watts of lighting power and stunning high
beam coverage! If this wasn't enough, I also wired the factory fog lamp
switch, so that when pulled to the 'on' position, upon choosing high
beam, the driving lights would come on automatically, thus, 720 watts of
high beam photon torpedoes!
See Ya.....John Wayland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks roland, that nailed it
error codes were 1231 1223 1224 1133 and 1122
clearing those and she start right up. Kinda a good "feature", you can
tell there are codes but still drive. Of course that is what finishing
the wiring would be for.
I ran the DAQ so I could check stuff, like pot position and amperages
but I don't know the units 00-ff is 255 divisions but anyone know what
they map to? I'll go search the archives.
The default motor volt setting was 429 volts, yike. that should be 170.
On the charger I got the blue light again, it turns out 2 of the dips
switches were half way, i either bumped them or i gotta watch out for
those pot holes ;-)
So, the way I am understanding it, equalizing is a manual process done
by us users, it is not part of the profile?
How often should I do this on a pack of orbitals?
Emeter, well, we shall see. It still didn't reset I will do it manually
since I have changed a parameter and see if that takes care of it. It
meats the criteria they say in their book, so Ther must be more to the
story than they are letting on. Keep in mind, I may have another issue,
it is a link 1000 not a link 10. I don't know if that makes a difference.
PS I think you meant if I was NOT using the MK2s keep 1,2,3 on and maybe
that is even "1 or 2 or 3" ??
I have the manual, but some of it I found confusing.
Why not mount all the regs in a box inside the cabin, like behind the
seat and run wires. It will take individual calibration to compensate
for the voltage drop, or a kelvin connection, but it would work.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Message
----- Original Message -----
From: Who Killed the Electric Car News
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, April 15, 2006 10:57 PM
Subject: "Who Killed the Electric Car" NEWS April 2006
N E W S April 2006
Here is the latest news on "Who Killed the Electric Car?" Thanks for your
enthusiasm and patience (and sorry if this reaches you twice)...
The 2006 Sundance Film Festival was a blast. We showed an early cut of the
film to sell out crowds. Although we weren't showing the film for official
reviews, we got some early buzz. New York Times critic A.O. Scott wrote
that our screening was "one of the most passionate" he'd ever seen at
Sundance. (To read the article go to http://whokilledtheelectriccar.com
and click on "press"). And the online magazine GRIST us a nice nod too.
Nearly 1000 people saw this early edition including a large group of
highschool students. We listened to feedback, met lots of interesting
fired-up audience members, answered questions, and enjoyed stepping out of
the edit room into the theater.
The big news is that Sony Pictures Classics gave us an official release date
: June 28th, 2006! Sony is working on how a roll-out will work in major
markets. Your help in getting the word out will be vital around the release.
In the meantime, we've been accepted to some top rated film festivals
including San Francisco, Tribeca, Mountain Film and Seattle.
2006 film festival screenings (as of 4/10/06):
1) San Francisco Film Festival (April 21-22) http://fest06.sffs.org/
2) USA Film Festival, Dallas (April 29)
3) Tribeca Film Festival, New York City (May 2, 4, 5, and 6)
http://www.tribecafilmfestival.org/
4) Mountain Film Festival, Telluride, Co (tentative: May 28)
5) Seattle Film Festival (tentative: June 9)
6) Atlanta Film Festival (tentative: June 11)
US PREMIERE: JUNE 28, 2006
This is all moving very fast. Check the website in the coming weeks for more
announcements as we get closer.
As before, thank you in advance for your support. Your efforts to promote
the film (especially on its opening weekends) will make a big difference in
getting this film to wider audience.
Best regards ,
Chris and all of us at "Who Killed the Electric Car"
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have some audible transformers. What are my options to silence them?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Never mind, I found it: EVDL Archive for July 2002.
Bill Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Bill Dennis
Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2006 11:31 AM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Lee's Half-Pack Comparator
Anybody remember the link to Lee's half-pack battery comparator circuit that
uses three LEDs and two resistors? I thought I'd saved a reference to it,
but not can't find it. Thanks.
Bill Dennis
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 05:17 PM 16/04/06 -0500, Ryan wrote:
I have some audible transformers. What are my options to silence them?
Depending on how big they are, how heavily loaded, etc, there are a few
things, but the most effective for smaller transformers seem to be:
1) Vacuum bag epoxy or
2) fully potting the transformer (put the transformer into a plastic box
and fill the rest of the space with a potting compound - wax, bitumen,
epoxy, or a proprietary potting resin)
The down side of potting is the transformer can overheat if it is running
at the limit as it is.
Hope this helps
James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 12:16 PM 16/04/06 -0700, Mark wrote:
1. Where can below-mentioned heatsink compound be purchased?
Any electronics distributor - for a heatsink that big, a syringe quantity
(usually available in a small squeeze tube, a syringe about 5/8 diameter
and 2-1/2" long, or bulk).
Best way to apply heat transfer compound is to use a small hard rubber
roller - used to be readily available as printers' rollers for applying
ink, these days you may be forced to make your own from a section of an old
printer drive roller. Spread the compound as thin as you can push it out
over both surfaces, put them together and wriggle them a bit until they
'grab', then force them into the position the bolt holes line up, and do up
tight.
I'm sure others have their favorite ways, the point is to get as thin a
layer over as much of the mating faces as possible, without building up the
thickness too much. The best thermal transfer is between the places that
the faces actually touch, heat transfer compound is a second best by a long
shot, but gaps are far worse again. Ideally you are not seperating the
places that the surfaces are touching already when you put the compound on.
2. Okay to install Curtis upside down so heatsink is on top?
(Reason for doing this would be to make it easier to draw air across
the heatsink fins with a fan.)
Should be no problem, the electronics don't care what their orientation is.
Just try and ensure that you can keep the rain out of the airflow, as any
dribbles heading down may creep into the Curtis. If you have any concerns
about the possibility of dribbles of water, do something now, because if
you can see the possibility of moisture getting to the Curtis, you can be
sure it'll get there sooner or later, then *bang*.....
Hope this helps.
Regards
James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Jeff,
In my rig, I just have the #1 dip switch on.
About once a month, I take a voltage reading of the battery pack in the
following sequence for my battery pack of 180 volts. This may be a quick
test of reading across different sections to see if there is a very low
battery in the group.
At full charge and battery setting about 24 hours, my T-145's should be
about 6.38 volts per battery. Some may read 6.39 v and some may read 6.37.
This is only a 0.02 volt difference between the highest and the lowest
batteries and 0.01 volt difference to 6.38 volts.
Procedure for reading 30 6-volt batteries:
1. Volt reading across batteries no. 1 to 30 = 191.6 volts
2. Volt reading across 15 battery groups
a. batteries no. 1 to 15 = 95.8 volts
b. batteries no. 16 to 30 = 95.7 volts
-----
191.5 volts
3. Volt reading across 10 battery groups
a. batteries no. 1 to 10 = 63.8 volts
b. batteries no. 11 to 20 = 63.8 volts
c. batteries no. 21 to 30 = 63.9 volts
------
191.5 volts
I will normally stop the voltage test here if the
voltage difference is only this much and I will not apply
a balance charge.
If the voltage difference is greater than 0.4 volts
across these groups, I will then continue across 6 groups
in the pack and I always will find the lowest batteries in
the 6 group.
I will than charge the lowest battery to match the average voltage of 191.6
/ 30 = 6.38 volts.
About every six months, I will then charge all the lowest batteries to match
the highest batteries with the 6 volt smart charger, after the main battery
charger has charge the battery pack to about 90 %.
To charge the lower batteries takes only 30 to 60 seconds with a 40 amp
charger. After that is done, I will continue to charge the battery pack to
100%.
I have done this type of charging on cobalt industrial cells, Exides, and
now the Trojans. The first two set of battery packs had run about 10 years
and the Trojans are now going on 30 years and they are still perfect.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Shanab" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2006 4:06 PM
Subject: Re: Some problems to solve
> Thanks roland, that nailed it
> error codes were 1231 1223 1224 1133 and 1122
> clearing those and she start right up. Kinda a good "feature", you can
> tell there are codes but still drive. Of course that is what finishing
> the wiring would be for.
> I ran the DAQ so I could check stuff, like pot position and amperages
> but I don't know the units 00-ff is 255 divisions but anyone know what
> they map to? I'll go search the archives.
>
> The default motor volt setting was 429 volts, yike. that should be 170.
>
> On the charger I got the blue light again, it turns out 2 of the dips
> switches were half way, i either bumped them or i gotta watch out for
> those pot holes ;-)
>
> So, the way I am understanding it, equalizing is a manual process done
> by us users, it is not part of the profile?
> How often should I do this on a pack of orbitals?
>
>
> Emeter, well, we shall see. It still didn't reset I will do it manually
> since I have changed a parameter and see if that takes care of it. It
> meats the criteria they say in their book, so Ther must be more to the
> story than they are letting on. Keep in mind, I may have another issue,
> it is a link 1000 not a link 10. I don't know if that makes a difference.
>
> PS I think you meant if I was NOT using the MK2s keep 1,2,3 on and maybe
> that is even "1 or 2 or 3" ??
> I have the manual, but some of it I found confusing.
>
>
> Why not mount all the regs in a box inside the cabin, like behind the
> seat and run wires. It will take individual calibration to compensate
> for the voltage drop, or a kelvin connection, but it would work.
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I am running 55w/100w H4 headlamps (not legal, I already know that). When in
high beam I run them both. That's 310 watts of power, they are VERY bright.
I drive about 5 miles of quiet back roads every night to get home. They are
usually on all the way home. Been doing it for 3 years. They work fine. I
figured the same, that they would burn out, they haven't. Oh, before someone
comments. I use a pair of 40 amp relays on about 6 feet of #12 wire between
the under hood high current post and the headlights. I have never measured
it but would guess there is at least 13volts at the headlights.
Mark Grasser
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Wayland" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2006 5:33 PM
Subject: Re: High-Watts/Low-Watts
Hello to All,
Ricky Suiter wrote:
55Watt low, 65 watts high.... or 120 watts if you light both filaments at
the same time.
Bill Dennis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: In Pep Boys, the headlight
replacement bulbs say: 65W/55W. Does this mean
that low beams take 55W and high beams take 65W, or does it mean that low
beams take 55W, and high beams draw a combined 120W? Thanks.
Correct info on 55W low, 65W high, but do not try running both filaments
at the same time, as you're asking for the bulb to fail in short order.
The bulb is not designed to have both filaments on at the same time. You
can get away with it for short periods, but anything longer than a 10 or
15 seconds is asking for over-heating and burn-out.
When I had my '78 Porsche 911SC many years ago, I swapped out the stock
American market headlamps for the European slant lense aero types. These
came with twin H1 bulbs instead of the single dual filament style H4 style
55/65 bulbs. With separate bulbs physically spaced away from each other,
one for low beam, one for high beam, you can safely run both low and high
beam at the same time...cool. I rewired the factory harness with 10 gauge
and relayed-it all up appropriately, then installed 130 watt H1 rally
bulbs. I adjusted the lows so that they did not shine in oncoming driver's
eyes but still really flooded the front with a blanket of super white
light, and adjusted the hi beams to start where the lows faded out down
the road. I also installed Cibe' model 35 high speed driving lights with a
bow tie projection pattern fitted with 100W H2 bulbs, that were nearly
identical in size and shape to the funky factory fog lights I had pulled,
and again, had the appropriate heavy duty wiring and relay. Finally, I
used a beefed up 140 amp alternator to feed the affair. I had the lights
set up so that on high beam, the low beam would stay on which gave 520
watts of lighting power and stunning high beam coverage! If this wasn't
enough, I also wired the factory fog lamp switch, so that when pulled to
the 'on' position, upon choosing high beam, the driving lights would come
on automatically, thus, 720 watts of high beam photon torpedoes!
See Ya.....John Wayland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
David,
Are you ready to start a EAA Chapter ??
I think with Lawless, and you Akron foke
we might have enough people ??
Robert Salem
> On 16 Apr 2006 at 0:11, Dr. Polsinelli wrote:
>
> > I'm in the Cleveland area. Are there more people or a group
> > around here?
>
> A few here and there. A friend of mine in Bainbridge township (I think not
> a member of this list) is an EVer. Rod Hower is too; he's done some work
> for Myers Motors in Tallmadge (the folks trying to keep the Sparrow alive).
> Rod lives near me, south of Akron.
>
> There's been sporadic interest from a few others from time to time, but not
> much long term or consistent interest. Many years ago there were a couple
> of people in the Kent / Ravenna area who had C-cars. A musician in Kent
> used to have a converted Rabbit, but I think he's sold it.
>
> I've contacted some of these folks over the years and suggested that we form
> a EAA chapter, but haven't gotten much of a response.
>
>
> David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
> EV List Assistant Administrator
>
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation,
> or switch to digest mode? See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> Note: mail sent to "evpost" or "etpost" addresses will not reach me.
> To send a private message, please use evadm at drmm period net.
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Michael,
I am in Columbus. I have a 81 VW pickup.
What are you buying ??
Robert Salem
> I am new to EV's and am purchasing a used one. I noticed that David is
> in Akron. I'm in the Cleveland area. Are there more people or a group
> around here?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Michael
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Same here for 5 or so years on my 9C1.
On Sun, 16 Apr 2006 20:36:13 -0400, "Mark Grasser"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>I am running 55w/100w H4 headlamps (not legal, I already know that). When in
>high beam I run them both. That's 310 watts of power, they are VERY bright.
>I drive about 5 miles of quiet back roads every night to get home. They are
>usually on all the way home. Been doing it for 3 years. They work fine.
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds.-Ralph Waldo Emerson
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Sure, jmygann,
They work fine in a 72V system!
But you don't want to be making this a 72V system in a heavy car, nor for
highway use, unless it is ultra-light, streamlined, and has very low rolling
resistance tires.
The Dynasty IT cruises at only 40 to 50 Amps, and only pulls 200A up typical
hills. Acceleration bursts will take 400A, but only for a few tenths of a
second, then it drops rapidly to 200-odd, and you reach your speed limit in
seconds.
These batteries will last "for years" in this service, though unfortunately
I don't have any real data on how the range holds up.
We find customers have problems if they leave the cars parked for months or
years unplugged. These batteries self-discharge very unevenly, so when you
finally do plug in, they won't charge up evenly; some will go up over 16.5V
and get hot while the others vainly try to catch up. Then the charger stops,
and you go for a drive.
We now suggest people use the new power cheq modules to equalize these
batteries - they only bypass 3A, but they equilize even when the car is off.
One friend of Doug Hartley uses similar gel cells with great results, but
follows a special regime of equilizing. Every so often he discharges them
very low, very slowly, then charges them up immediately.
-John
John Foster
Manager, Production & Engineering,
Dynasty Electric Car Co,
www.itiselectric.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of jmygann
Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2006 12:51 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: 12V East Penn EV31
Any opinions on these for a 72 volt system ??
Used in the Dynasty EV
http://www.evworld.com/view.cfm?section=communique&newsid=8442
--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.4.1/312 - Release Date: 4/14/2006
--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.4.1/312 - Release Date: 4/14/2006
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.4.1/312 - Release Date: 4/14/2006
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi,
I want to make that ev more than EVer. I looked at the AC Propulsion Scion,
and it's tempting to buy one but my parents really don't want to buy a new
car. I also looked at the Venturi Fetish, beautiful, nice body design and
you plug it in for 10 minutes and you can drive 10 miles. That's impressive.
So, a few questions about building an ev.
What are the best batteries? (The Scion will use Lithium Ion, so that may be
the best, should find out what the Fetish uses.)
How fast a charger could I make? (If it could do 10 miles on 10 minutes of
charge that would be lovely, or even something like 10 miles on 20 minutes
of charge.)
What would be a good car to use as a donor? (We drive 30 miles into town and
30 out, and then some around town, it would need quite a bit of room for
batteries.)
Thanks, and I'm now constantly thinking about ways to make an ev :)
Alan
--
// Quotes from yours truly -------------------------
"You don't forget, you just don't remember."
"Maturity resides in the mind."
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to All,
I've always loved the 60's thru early 70's Datsun minitrucks, the
original models that started the minitruck revolution that was the big
thing for the 70's period. Sadly, today there are no more true
minitrucks as all have morphed into portly 'midsize' pickups. Anyway,
some may remember a fun EV I put together back in the late 90's, a '68
Datsun minitruck I called 'Baby Blue'. It was featured in a documentary
about EVs called 'Where the Rubber Meets the Road', where I had to
convert it from a gasser to electric in one day, on camera. Of course,
after that exhaustive 14 hour build, I improved the design. The end
product was a 192V, 1200 amp road terror that was super fun to drive.
The drive train consisted of an ADC 9 inch motor (properly timed), a Z
car 5 speed tranny, racing clutch, the first T-Rex high voltage
controller, thick 4/0 cabling, and 16 of the first prototypes of the
experimental group 31 Optima YTs. I had also made it possible for
Marko's Fiat to be equipped with the same prototype group 31s, in fact,
these two vehicles were the only EVs on the street with these
hard-to-get batteries. I had placed the batteries in a custom metal
enclosure mounted forward in the bed, leaving about 2/3 of open bed
space. The plan was to at a later date, do a tilt bed with the batteries
all mounted properly between the frame rails, out of sight and down
lower for a better CG. It was a fun little truck that one late night on
the freeway, handily smoked a 5 ohh Mustang at 80+ mph to 100 or so. I
enjoyed the truck for a couple of years, then reluctantly sold it to me
friend John Tuss. The truck is still available for viewing at the EV
Photo Album, and though he no longer owns it, is still listed as John
Tuss' truck:
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/039.html
Fast forward....several months ago, after 4+ years of simply driving
this tough little EV as his daily machine, John sold the truck to friend
Marko Mongillo of Fiamp fame (Marko's Fiat 600 sedan also listed at the
EV Photo Album). John's a very nice guy but is not totally into
maintaining an EV. The little truck had problems under his care and when
two batteries failed (blew up from cell reversal)...he simply dropped it
to a 168V truck and kept on driving. John drove the pickup way under its
capabilities performance wise, driving as if he had an egg under his
foot at all times (his normal mode of driving anything), so he noticed
little difference at the reduced pack voltage. The pack never received
regulators and pretty much was never equalized in any way. He simply
charged it and drove it, day by day, until its range fell lower and lower.
Marko, with a little help from yours truly, has other plans now that
he's the new owner. I handed him 276V worth of brand new Exide Orbitals
for the project. The past month or so we've been re-converting this nice
little truck. Marko out-did his metalworking capabilities and made
awesome stainless steel between-the-frame-rail battery boxes that
somehow, hold all 23 batteries beneath the bed where they are out of
sight. The truck looks like a stock, lowered minitruck with a fully
functional bed again....nice! I've done all the high current wiring. Jim
Husted just put some love on Marko's motor:
Being that the High Voltage Nationals are only a month away....Thursday consisted of tearing into multiple motors and a lot of prep work...Added was a need to get Marko his motor as he also intends to bring out to Joliet this May.
Ah Jim, you're letting the cat out of the bag! Oh well, time to let
everyone know what we're up to :-)
I had just returned from central Oregon earlier this week, and as Jim
posted, met up with Father Time and Jim on my way through Redmond back
to Portland over yummy Chinese food. This past weekend as we had all
planned, Father Time came back through town with Marko's motor in tow.
Madman Rudman too, was passing through on his way to Newberg, OR to have
Easter with his folks. On a previous trip to Jim's motor shop, I had
picked up the Husetedized front motor from Gone Postal and brought it
back to my place, as a service to Rod Wilde. You see, we Pacific
Northwest EVers tend to help each other out every chance we get. Why pay
hundreds of dollars in shipping costs sending 150+ lbs. of motor the 450
miles or so back and forth between Port Townsend, WA to Redmond, OR,
when you can piggy back the thing with your EV buddies? Why should Marko
pay to ship a heavy motor from Portland to Redmond and back (300 miles),
when John the forklift guy goes back and forth that way all the time? As
the commercial says 'It's the network'. The circle was complete for
Rod's motor, when Rudman was passing through Portland for the holiday
with his family, a guy who lives in Kingston across the woods from Rod's
hometown of Port Townsend. As a sidebar...I could have done an even
sweeter motor hand-off, as Tim 'Electric Monkey' Brehm left on Friday
for a weekend with his mom up in Port Townsend! He wanted to hook up
with Crazy Rod Wilde while he was up there, and I could have simply
handed Rod's motor to him and he could have delivered it in person. Oh
well, Friday was a hectic forklift wrenching day for me, and quite
frankly, I forgot all about asking Tim to take Rod's motor up there, but
with Rudman passing through right on schedule, it wasn't a big deal.
So here we all were, meeting up at Summit Sheet Metal...Father Time,
Madman Rudman, Plasma Boy, and Marko Mongillo.
More from Jim:
I’d really like to stress here that there are some folks out west that are really pushing to ready their EV’s for the May Illinois race and for any of you who might be teetering on the fence to make the effort and attend. Wayland I know has never been that far east with WZ, and I know EVeryone here is pumped about the Event!
Here's the deal. Marko is planning a major cross-country trip in Baby
Blue. The plan is to have the pickup all finished in time for a car show
Tim, he, and I are part of at Mt. Hood Community College on May 5th. For
the trip eastward, we'll place my 10 kw generator in the bed of Baby
Blue, along with a PFC 50 charger... a series hybrid for level ground
cruising, and relying on stout battery power for climbing the Rockies.
With all the recent talk here on EVDL about generators and all, this is
a pretty timely project, don't you think?
From David Roden:
When you add a genset, you have a series hybrid. The energy conversions
involved make it a real challenge to attain high fuel efficiency using this
scheme. It's not impossible, but a garden variety consumer genset -
intended to supply backup power for a few hours during a grid failure - is
probably not going to get anywhere close...
Good points, David. We'd certainly like to have a beefier unit, say a 15
kw model, but we have to use what we have available, so we're cutting it
thin with the 10 kw unit I have. To reduce rolling resistance and
minimize cruise current needed, we're going through the entire truck's
rolling gear and have already found thick, sticky grease caked in the
rear axle instead of slippery thin gear oil...yikes! The rear axle is
getting a thorough cleaning, all new bearings, and thin but effective
gear oil. The front hubs and bearings are also getting the work-over
with new bearings and all. The front end will be aligned. Finally,
thinner high pressure (lower rolling resistance) truck radials similar
to the kind Dick Finley and I used on Red Beastie, will replace the low
profile, fat street rod tires that don't roll so well right now. When
done, I expect the 276V truck will use about 35 amps (with the 250 lb.
generator in back) to cruise at 60 mph or so.
To plan for the worse, Rudman is allowing us to bring his T-Rex as a
drop-in backup controller, and I'll have my spank'n new PFC50X, my
experimental 75+ amp charger the Madman and Smalley have been tweaking
for me, as a backup to the PFC50 we'll be using. It should be quite an
eventful trek for Marko and his tough Datsun pickup. It will be fun to
see how well the truck can pull the steep mountain grades we'll encounter.
Once we're at our destination, the exciting electric races in Joliet,
Il, while Tim Brehm handles driving White Zombie, I'll have fun running
Marko's Baby Blue down the track. No, we don't expect it to set any new
records, but having yet another EV to actually race on the track will
add to the excitement of the races.
I'll be posting pictures of the reconversion process to the Plasma Boy
website soon.
See Ya......John Wayland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
John,
Here goes.
Driver/Owner/Builder Darin Gilbert
>From Warren Michigan, a suburb of Detroit
Original vehicle was a Chaparal Drit Bike
Bike is named Piranha
Front suspension is lowered with fork brace and aluminum front wheel
Rear suspension is solid, stretched 5 inches, with aluminum rear wheel and
slick race tire
Drivetrain is twin Eteks into a two speed electrically shifted transmission
Power is from twin strings of 48 volts of 13 amp-hour hawkers and
series/parallel contactor control
Currently the 48V motor cycle NEDRA record holder at 9.51 seconds @ 65 MPH
Thanks,
Darin Gilbert
BadFishRacing
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2006 12:26 PM
Subject: High Voltage Nationals
>
> Hello all
> At the High Voltage Nationals NEDRA EVent, we are planning to
> have a parade lap of the electric vehicles participating, in front of the
> grandstands before the actual racing EVent begins. The track will have
> an announcer with a wireless mike introducing each car or motorcycle and
> driver/owner as it passes by. Please prepare a short bio that can be put
> on a 3x5 card. These cards will also be used by the announcer during the
> EVent. We are professionally taping the whole EVent, so don't miss out on
> this.
>
> What we need :
> Driver/owner name
> Town and state
> Make and year of vehicle
> Picture (optional)
> Description of drive system (batteries, volts, controller etc.)
> What class is it registered as
> If a NEDRA record holder state class and record
> And a short blurb that you think would be interesting (optional)
>
> You can either e-mail this info to me ASAP or have it ready when you
> arrive at the track. If I get it now, I think it can be included in the
> program book and on the web site.
>
> See ya May 13th in Joliet, Il.
>
> Thanks
> John Emde
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> www.fveaa.org
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
This 3-wheeler needs someone to replace that motor:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4631985568
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mark Freidberg wrote:
> 1. Where can below-mentioned heatsink compound be purchased?
www.jameco.com part# 236822CK $4.95
> 2. Okay to install Curtis upside down so heatsink is on top?
Yes, that's fine. Any position is fine except with the terminals facing
up unless you are *sure* it will never ever get water on top.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> What are the best batteries? (The Scion will use
> Lithium Ion, so that may be
> the best, should find out what the Fetish uses.)
I suppose I'm coming in late to this post, but clearly
money is no object. The AC Prop. rig uses _matched_
LiPo batteries. They are significantly more expensive
than a $1,200 pack of flooded lead acid batts., but
they are currently the _best_. So that's what you're
up for? And you'll have no problem cranking out a
battery mgt. system (BMS).
>
> How fast a charger could I make? (If it could do 10
> miles on 10 minutes of
> charge that would be lovely, or even something like
> 10 miles on 20 minutes
> of charge.)
Most rigs use between 200-300 Wh per mile. If you
know your commute, you'll have the answer. 18 mi. for
me x 300 Wh = 5400 Wh, plus a little more to make up
for inefficiency. Making your own charger is do-able,
but the better chargers baby the batteries for longer
life (see "matched," above, and "BMS").
>
> What would be a good car to use as a donor?
Aerodynamic is best. Something that was cranked out
by the thousands, so that parts are easy to obtain
(I'm gathering you'll want to keep it awhile). Lotsa'
space for batteries? That's why I settled on a Civic.
(We
> drive 30 miles into town and
> 30 out, and then some around town, it would need
> quite a bit of room for
> batteries.)
>
> Thanks, and I'm now constantly thinking about ways
> to make an ev :)
> Alan
>
>
> --
> // Quotes from yours truly -------------------------
> "You don't forget, you just don't remember."
> "Maturity resides in the mind."
>
>
'92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V (video or DVD available)!
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
