EV Digest 5427
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: EV Charging station (sizing)
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Power/Electric Meter
by "Dale Curren" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Power/Electric Meter
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: EV Charging station (sizing)
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Power/Electric Meter
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: EV Charging station
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Power/Electric Meter
by Wayne <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: EV Charging station
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: What is it with CVTs?
by "Death to All Spammers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Hi There! (Introduction)
by "Death to All Spammers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Exploding batteries in an E-8 (yikes!)
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Motor Blowers - do you use them? how?
by "Death to All Spammers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: article: Modec Electric Van Now on the Road
by "Evan Tuer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Power/Electric Meter
by "Ryan Stotts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Regs, 0.3
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: What is it with CVTs?
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: What is it with CVTs?
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: EV Charging station
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Hi There! (Introduction)
by nikki <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) LA Times: Plug-in Hybrids Now!
by Marc Geller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: What is it with CVTs?
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Tire Pressure
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: What is it with CVTs?
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) RE: Zilla DAQ 4 mode questions or how to graph a race?
by Steven Ciciora <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: What is it with CVTs?
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: What is it with CVTs?
by Stefan Peters <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Even a modest industrial instal
has more Watts than most of can take on.
This substation has Giga Watts passing through it.
This would serve a Fleet of super high power chargers.
I think most of us need to realise the power flow out there is enormous.
Madman
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan Stotts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2006 8:19 PM
Subject: Re: EV Charging station (sizing)
> Is this an issue of amps availability? How many amps are on tap at a
> local substation? What kind of voltages are in there?
>
> Example: http://www.co.orange.nc.us/ems/photos/electric-substation-01.jpg
>
> How easy(hard?) would it be to make a DC converter to siphon off some
> amps from one of those and put it into the pack in rapid fashion?
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
** Reply to message from Wayne <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> on Sat, 29 Apr 2006
09:01:05 -0500
> Where can one find a reliable (and inexpensive) electric/power
> meter? I'm looking for a plug-through, re-settable device for
> recording KWH usage...
you probly want a Kil-a-wat meter. I got mine from supermediastore.com. 27
bucks IIRC.
Dale Curren
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
http://cgi.ebay.com/Kill-A-Watt-electricity-usage-meter-save-monitor-energy_W0QQitemZ6052914689QQcategoryZ3188QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
or just type in "kill A watt" in the search bar.
I also bought one for home and a couple for work.
I used it once to measure charge current for a Sparrow
(156V pack of batteries) It was pulling about 14 amps
from the 120Vac wall outlet for about 6 minutes. It
was pretty warm after this load test, so definately
not rated for continuous use at these power levels
(although the ratings on the sticker are
Max voltage: 125AC, 50/60 Hz
Max current: 15A
Max power: 1875VA
It measures Volts, Amps, Watts, VA, Hz, Power Factor,
Kwhour and hours
Rod
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Starts???
We have scratchings at 500Kw.
No checks yet... but talk....
The Reg buss.. with Evil buss running on it.. has charged more than a few
cycles of the Fiero.
With Even the reg Buss doing analog feedbacks, you really don't need to set
the charger. The Regs them selves haul back the current.
So we have done high power with just the Regs doing all the work of
regulating the current and voltage of each battery.
There is Rj Silver Ribbon cable every where in the shop... about 50 ft of
cables from the charger to the EV and then over to the Laptop doing data
logging.
Pretty amazing.. This is now normal every day Ev work for me now. And stacks
of Regs under every elbow...
Rich Rudman
Manzanita Micro
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cor van de Water" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2006 12:26 AM
Subject: RE: EV Charging station (sizing)
> Jeff,
>
> >How do we prevent someone from dump chargeing into an almost
> >full pack with the wrong charger setting
>
> Simple - use the technologies already available.
> For example, the AVCON connector has a duty-cycle variable
> pilot signal, indicating the amount of current available
> from the outlet to the (onboard) charger.
>
> In case of dump charging, I suppose the charger is offboard
> and only the BMS is onboard, so the BMS can send a duty-
> cycle controlled signal to the dump charger to indicate
> how much current to provide.
> The BMS measures and knows the SOC, the charger follows.
> Only issue is make a good definition and standardize it.
>
> Pack voltage differences are not a problem with an approach
> like Rich has - provide a fixed current into any voltage level
> by using a buck converter and current feedback.
> Only limit is the *max* voltage that can be delivered.
> Any lower voltage will be established automatically by
> plugging in - that is the beauty of a "current source".
>
> 1000A into a 96V pack will simply use half the power of the
> same current into a 192V pack, because the buck converter
> needs twice the current input at the same input voltage
> (from the grid) for the second case compared to the first.
>
> So Rich, when starts the 400kW development? ;-)
>
> Regards,
>
> Cor van de Water
> Systems Architect
> Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
> Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
> Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
> Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
> Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of Jeff Shanab
> Sent: Friday, April 28, 2006 8:01 PM
> To: EV Charging station
> Subject: Re: EV Charging station (sizing)
>
>
> ok, lets assume for the dump charge scenario we want to go with a
> professional and safe setup.
> lets also asume for the sake of calculation that a person would want or
> need 10 miles of "boost" .
>
> Given 300Wh/mile that is 3kwh
> if we compress that to 10 min it is only 18kw, that is 75 amps @
> 240Volt. a pfc50 can handle this?( or is that only to a lower packV)
> >From a consumers viewpoint 10 min is actually a lot, enought that i
> would classify it as fast chargeing not dump chargeing.
> I am just trying to be realistic for the NON-EV people trained in the
> art of 3 min pumping.
>
> So trying for 5min makes that 150Amps
> Since we would want to also either minimize grid draw to keep costs down
> it seems like we would either need a 480V 3 phase hookup to pull about
> 60Amps(reasonable) at 480 3Phase to push 150A 240V into a pack
> requireing a 1/0 charge port(Anderson SB175)
>
> or a dump pack of 4-6 48V forklift batteries and a boost version of the
> charger
>
> How do we prevent someone from dump chargeing into an almost full pack
> with the wrong charger setting, ie 300V charger setting and 244V pack
> (opps, i changed the pack since last charged at this station....)
>
> Measure voltage prior to activating charger and monitor current and rate
> of voltage change to estimate SOC?
> ie
> connect
> press start
> charger measures voltage
> charger applies 10amp load and measures voltage again
> SOC is estimated and decision to charge is made (will this work?)
> current limit is imposed during charge and accumulated estimate of SOC
> is updated
> System shuts down when 80% SOC is estimated or timer runs ourt,
> whichever is first.
>
>
> or we could require acces to a regbus?
>
> or is amps of dump charge = factor * (acceptance - actual voltage)
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Again;
Just Google Kill A Watt, I just Did,and it will take ya right there. Nice
writup on it on one site. They don't have a 240 volt one, though.
Seeya
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2006 10:32 AM
Subject: Re: Power/Electric Meter
> Hi Wayne;
>
> I got a cheepo Chinesy Kil A Watt thing on line, surfed around or maybe
> somebody on the List pointed it out. It reads amps, volts HZ and kwh, a
bit
> of over kill, but I hasve used it to read KWH charging.NOT for KWH
driving.I
> paid about 29 bux as I remenber.
>
> Seeya
>
> Bob
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Wayne" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "EV" <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2006 10:01 AM
> Subject: Power/Electric Meter
>
>
> > Where can one find a reliable (and inexpensive) electric/power
> > meter? I'm looking for a plug-through, re-settable device for
> > recording KWH usage...
> >
> > Large thanks...
> >
> > Wayne White
> >
> > If those of us who "can", "do" then those of us who "can't" won't
> > suffer as much from the high prices of excess.
> >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
All 4 of them...
wound on 6.5 inch cores... You feel like Popey when you wind one of these
with #1 Gage welding cable.
We have done 150 amps into Goldie once.. I am gearing up for a 200 amp run
into the Fiero.
Rich Rudman
Manzanita Micro
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2006 11:25 PM
Subject: Re: EV Charging station
> Rich has a charger designed for 400 Amps and it has been demonstrated into
> resistors. He does not have big enough wires in any battery packs to
charge
> a battery. IIRC the wires are expected soon.
>
> You do not want to use taps. It seriously unbalances the battery pack and
it
> is tough to get the pack back into balance.
>
> The inductor is about the size of a golf car tire.
>
> Joe Smalley
> Rural Kitsap County WA
> Fiesta 48 volts
> NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jeff Shanab" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2006 9:44 PM
> Subject: Re: EV Charging station
>
>
> > Please send the pictures.
> >
> >
> > About the SAE specs, cool.
> >
> > Cor van de water said "Dump charging should preferably still use a
charger
> "
> >
> > What charger? Even rich doesn't have a charger that does
200-400A...yet.
> It is why I mentioned using a zilla or a curtis. maybe an altrax.
> >
> >
> > About ultracaps. Caps are for 100,000 of cycles with large voltage
> > swings just not even what we want here, it would require a really
> > special dc-dc.
> > A bunker of submarine batteries at larger stations, banks of large
> > flooded bats for smaller stations.AGM would be nice, but $$$
> >
> >
> > The choice between taps or a controller.
> >
> > Lets say I was gonna use a controller for the dump charger. How much
> > inductance and capacitance would I need? would this inductor be huge or
> > what?
> >
> > Would a twistlock plug be ok for the 220V charge plug? How do we
> > establish a standard? what about what is commonlyavailable at boat
> > shops? (BTW, i have found thes places to have a great selection of
> > quality connectors, better than rat shack or battery places, they have
> > water sensitive autonomy issues )
> >
> >
>
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product/10001/-1/10001/145251/10001/311/310/9
> >
> >
>
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/categoryg/10001/-1/10001/311/310/9/man/asc/15/grid
> >
> > some of the stuff is reasonable
> >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Bob,
I've seen a couple of what-I-assume-to-be-similar devices on the
net...Most, if not all, are limited to 15 amps, at least this one:
(http://www.ahernstore.com/p4400.html) ...Do yer think this'd work as
a monitor for 110 v charging (120vdc)?
Wayne
At 09:32 AM 4/29/2006, you wrote:
Hi Wayne;
I got a cheepo Chinesy Kil A Watt thing on line, surfed around or maybe
somebody on the List pointed it out. It reads amps, volts HZ and kwh, a bit
of over kill, but I hasve used it to read KWH charging.NOT for KWH driving.I
paid about 29 bux as I remenber.
Seeya
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "EV" <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2006 10:01 AM
Subject: Power/Electric Meter
> Where can one find a reliable (and inexpensive) electric/power
> meter? I'm looking for a plug-through, re-settable device for
> recording KWH usage...
>
> Large thanks...
>
> Wayne White
>
> If those of us who "can", "do" then those of us who "can't" won't
> suffer as much from the high prices of excess.
>
If those of us who "can", "do" then those of us who "can't" won't
suffer as much from the high prices of excess.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Errr we will see about that...
AGMs can take this level for a couple of minutes, on cold lead and with a
really well buildt charge port.
I bet Gone Postal could hammer down 400 amps.
I have a client that has 3 strings of 95 amp hour Concords at 144 volts..
they would take it.
Hi Po Lithium.. and the battery packs and conductor racks to take this
level... Nobody makes anything close to it yet.
400 amps into and out of a "C" cell battery... is something I don't belive
yet. Nice propaganda.. it has not yet met my testers.
It would be nice.... Some day.....most likely.
Madman
----- Original Message -----
From: "Danny Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2006 1:03 AM
Subject: Re: EV Charging station
> Neato, but how many batteries can take 400 amp charge rates?
> OK, these nanoelectrode lithium batteries could, if they were really
> huge. But currently they're pretty much Unobtanium for EVs.
>
> Danny
>
> Joe Smalley wrote:
>
> >Rich has a charger designed for 400 Amps and it has been demonstrated
into
> >resistors. He does not have big enough wires in any battery packs to
charge
> >a battery. IIRC the wires are expected soon.
> >
> >You do not want to use taps. It seriously unbalances the battery pack and
it
> >is tough to get the pack back into balance.
> >
> >The inductor is about the size of a golf car tire.
> >
> >Joe Smalley
> >Rural Kitsap County WA
> >Fiesta 48 volts
> >NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
> >[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> I have read that they can be over 99% efficient. But I believe that
might
> be optimized for running at a fixed load/rpm. Otherwise I've seen 98+%
>
> When people quote 90% for CVTs, I believe that is /supposed/ to read "up
> to" 90%. Sort of like saying a particular ICE can develope "up to" 150
> hp.
>
If this is true, would a CVT-equipped parallel hybrid be that much
more efficient than a series hybrid that totally eliminates the tranny
and uses a direct motor and big controller? After all, if the Atkinson
cycle works in such a narrow rpm band, wouldn't it be perfect for this?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> You can save some weight and space by not bothering with the spare
tyre.
> If we assume your car ends up with 50 miles range, then you'll seldom be
> more than 25 miles from home. In the unlikely event of a flat tyre, if
> you can't limp home, you are still close enough to have a friend
fetch the
> spare out to you.
>
> Cheers, Pete.
The EV Ranger keeps its spare *in the bed itself*, so I never carry
one (but then, I have the Premium AAA membership that allows towing up
to 100 miles).
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Was the battery that exploded low on water, so the plates were exposed?
The best way I know to explode a battery is to load/charge it at high
current when the plates are exposed. All it takes is a tiny spark
between the edges of those closely spaced plates, and a little H2 in the
air space above, and KABANG!
The other good way is to dead short the battery. Within seconds, the
electrolyte starts boiling, and the battery bursts from steam pressure.
This isn't an "explosion" per se, but is VERY messy! The short can also
melt an interconnect, which creates that nice spark inside the battery,
again resulting in a delayed-reaction time explosion.
In your case, since the battery was physically separate from where you
connected the load, there must have been a spark inside the battery.
This implies that a cell had problems; one or more plates that had
broken or corroded free, and were barely touching by the thinnest little
thread. The pulse of load current was enough to open this thread,
creating a spark, and setting off the H2 left over from charging.
Everything in the tractor may have been off, but there could still be a
momentary capacitive surge of current to charge a capacitor or move the
voltmeter, etc. You did say you saw a spark when you connected to the
tractor, so *something* was drawing current.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> >If you were talking about me, I do have this available:
> >
> >http://www.evsource.com/tls_blowers.php
> >
> >It's not real cheap, but they're new and reliable.
>
> What kind of motor is that?
>
> John
>
The description says "shaded pole" - now, if someone can tell me what
that means...
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I think it uses a couple of Zebra batteries?
"Developing an impressive 102bhp and 300Nm of torque, Modec vans can
carry two tonnes up to one hundred miles at fifty miles an hour with
zero emissions... all from a single charge."
Weighs 3500kg. They should fit a large chrome bumper and export it to the US ;)
On 4/29/06, Paul Wujek <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Unfortunately only available in England:
http://www.treehugger.com/files/2006/04/modec_electric.php
--
Paul Wujek ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
http://froogle.google.com/froogle?sourceid=navclient&ie=UTF-8&rls=GGLJ,GGLJ:2006-08,GGLJ:en&scoring=p&groupby=p&q=kill+A+watt&lmode=online&brand=Watt&lnk=brsugg
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Christopher Zach wrote:
> Well, the parts all arrived today... grumbled... made 50 sets...
Yeah, it's tedious.
> Now I need to figure out a way to secure this mess to the battery
> without it vibrating apart. The potting compound will take 48 hours to
> cure, and I don't think I want to make these a part of the batteries.
I'd say just pot them right to the batterys. Why would you want to take
them off?
Or, if you want them removable: I don't have any 26ah Hawkers, but I do
have 13ah at 38ah sizes. On each, there is a rectangular space between
batteries where the lamp could go. Make a wooden block to fit this
space. Use it to make a simple female mold (heat up and stretch a piece
of polyethylene milk jug over it). Use the mold to make all your potted
lamp holders.
Hint; you can add sand or other fillers to the potting compound so you
need less. The lamp and resistor don't care about heat.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Ray Wong wrote:
> I like the simplicity of the CVT and am currently using one on my
> EZE Sport Bike (Honda F4 conversion). It has two Etek motors,
> Comet CVT and 96 volts of Hawker Odyssey. I was planning to try
> the series parallel switching but the CVT has worked surprisingly
> well so I have stuck with the CVT.
That sounds very similar to what I would like to try on a small
(Sundancer size) EV. Two Etek/Lynch/Lemco type high-efficiency PM
motors, each with a belt-type CVT driving each back wheel independently.
The high efficiency of the motors make up for the low efficiency of the
CVT, and the CVT makes up for the lower torque of the PM motor.
What are you using for a controller? As I understand them, the Comet CVT
cannot be manually shifted; it shifts automatically based on rpm. I was
wondering if one could use a simpler 2-step or 3-step contactor
controller and shift the transmission itself to provide smooth speed
control between step. Imagine a "stick shift lever" that is really a big
mechanical series/parallel switch, and the accellerator pedal
controlling the CVT ratio.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lee Hart wrote:
>> Personally, I think the PM motor, contactor controller, and variable
>> speed belt transmission setup looks the most promising for an
>> inexpensive, efficient EV.
Peter VanDerWal wrote:
> I suppose this would be true...if any of those items were readily
> available at low cost. (Talking about car size components)
I'm thinking of something like McKee's Sundancer; a 1600 lbs 2-seat
sports car, about the size of an MGA, MGB, Midget, Bug-Eyed Sprite, or
other classic british sports cars. Twin Etek motors, each driving a rear
wheel separately via a snowmobile belt-type CVT, with a contactor
controller. A dozen 6v golf cart batteries for power. Switch them in
parallel for charging, so you can use a 36v golf cart charger.
Everything here is simple, cheap, and available.
> Seems like a whole lot of work and expense to end up with a not very
> good solution.
No, it's not a "great" solution in the sense of being the ultimate in
efficiency, performance, or range. But, it's a very simple,
straightforward, and inexpensive solution. Think of it as an NEV that's
actually *fun* to drive!
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Danny Miller wrote:
> Neato, but how many batteries can take 400 amp charge rates?
Essentially any battery used in a road-going EV. Any battery that can
deliver 400 amps can *charge* at 400 amps. The key point is that you can
only apply this kind of charging current when the cells are well away
from "full".
Assume you're fast-charging something like a golf cart battery. You can
apply ANY charging current you like as long as you don't force the
voltage over 2.4v per cell. This means it will accept 400 amps until it
reaches about 70% charged. You can't "fill it" in 5 minutes, but you can
put in enough charge to get you back home.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Apr 28, 2006, at 7:13 PM, Roger Stockton wrote:
Actually, the process may be different because the vehicle would be
accompanying Nikki as she immigrates to Canada. This can be different
from a Canadian buying and importing a vehicle (with luck, the vehicle
will be considered part of Nikki's personal effects and will be exempt
from taxes/duties).
See "RC4151 Settling In Canada":
<http://www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/E/pub/cp/rc4151/rc4151-e.pdf>
And "RC4140 Importing a Vehicle into Canada":
<http://www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/E/pub/cp/rc4140/rc4140-05e.pdf>
It appears that the main thing headache limiter is that the vehicle be
at least 15yrs old (not a problem in this case!).
Thankfully so! She's 41 this year and hope that by the time we're
done with the conversion she'll be 43!
Don Cameron wrote:
BTW each province is a little different, so what
applies in BC or Alberta may not apply to Ontario.
This is entirely true. For instance, BC (where Don & I live)
requires a
safety inspection on vehicles imported from out of province, but does
not seem to require one on vehicles after they've been registered
in BC.
Some sort of paranoia about vehicles being more prone to rust away if
they've been previously registered outside of BC, I suppose ;^>
They're also the only province which lets me convert my UK driving
license without forcing me to retest! ;)
Ontario, however, is less elitist and requires a safety inspection (a
"mechanical") to be performed on every vehicle before it can be
licensed
for road use. A mechanical is not required on a brand new vehicle,
but
is required anytime the ownership changes hands (and presumably when a
non-new vehicle is to be first licensed).
I'm hoping that the safety inspection will be easy since the car will
be in a newly restored state when we move and the UK MOT test is
really strict - so as long as it's not as hard as that I'll be okay! :)
Certainly worth researching though. I'd hate to have egg on my face
with an unregistrable car when I arrive in ON!
I purchased a 68 Mini a few years back. It was an out of
province vehicle (like the New Beetle). The inspection
was done at a local certified garage.
They check everything from safety equipment to rust, to
structural soundness, to suspension - and **must** have
seatbelts (regardless of year).
This bit about seatbelts may be specific to BC, or Don may be
mistaken.
When I lived in Ontario (and worked in my father's shop, a licensed
vehicle inspection facility), the requirement was that vehicles had to
have seatbelts if they were originally fitted. As I recall, our '67
Volvo 122 had no problem passing the safety inspection (in the early
'80s) despite lacking rear seatbelts, because they were not part of
its
original equipment
Great! That's easy for me. Of course I'll go through all this when
we're ready to move and double-check the laws haven't changed :)
You might want to have a read through the relevant section(s) of the
Ontario Highway Traffic Act (which seems to be section VI):
<http://www.e-laws.gov.on.ca/DBLaws/Statutes/English/90h08_e.htm>
To get a feel for what the Ontario safety instpection is looking for.
One thing to note is that pretty much anywhere you settle in
Ontario you
will find that quite a lot of salt is used on the roads in winter, and
so you might well not want to drive your restored Minor during the
winter months so as to preserve its life.
We use tons of salt here. I'm hoping to get the whole body dipped
prior to painting. Glass fibre wings should also help reduce the
weight. Luckily for me all of these parts are produced in the UK by
someone that I trust to make good quality parts.
Since you are doing a restoration and conversion, depending upon the
time available before you move you might opt to ship the Minor
restored
but not converted. I don't believe that you can have the vehicle
inspected until it is drivable anyway (my memory is failing me, but I
believe a road test is part of the inspection), but if you opt to do a
DC conversion you might find it more economical to buy the conversion
bits here rather than importing them to the UK from the US and then
exporting them back here.
Of course, the other option would be to restore the shell and then
import the car with the intention to fit the motors when it's there.
I wonder if that's possible. I wouldn't want to import the car with
the ICE as the ICE is pretty much destroyed. Can I import a car to
Canada with it off the road?
Finally, speed limits on 2 lane undivided highways tend to be 80 or
90kph, while limits on divided highways are 100 or 110kph.
Assuming you
settle in southern Ontario (e.g. metro Toronto area), drivers
prefer to
travel at least 120-130kph, congestion permitting.
Cool. That's about what people get up to here. It's reassuring as
I've driven in the DC area in the US and the traffic really motors
much much faster! Apparently Ontario has one of the lowest accident
rates in the world for traffic incidents!
Cheers and good luck,
Thanks again everyone. It's so nice to be part of a group who are so
open with their ideas and experience! I'm now really confident that
I'll be able to finish this all!
Nikki
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--- Begin Message ---
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 2006 11:10:57 -0700
From: Stefan Peters <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: What is it with CVTs?
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Peter VanDerWal wrote:
>
> A custom two speed transimission would offer the best all around
> efficiency and you could automate the shifting for less effort and expense
> than adapting a CVT.
>
>
Urr?
... Or even a GearVendors overdrive/underdrive unit used with a suitably
geared rear-end ...
Why would someone need a custom two speed? There is a solution readily
available, at least for rear wheel drive vehicles. You can flip the
GearVendors unit around and have a 1.28:1 low gear, and a 1:1 high gear.
Given most rear-ends are setup for 60MPH at 2 - 3K input speed (whatever
the original car did in 4th gear), that sounds about right.
Doesn't one of the EV suppliers also have a two speed for FWD vehicles?
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