EV Digest 6737
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: '71 VW Super Beetle Adaptor Plate
by "FRED JEANETTE MERTENS" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: FW: AGNS bike sets new NEDRA record
by "BadFishRacing" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Rectactor Controller Suggestions
by Jack Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Cheap regen/DC-DC eliminator
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Jay Leno no friend of electric cars
by Marvin Campbell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Mechanical PWM Was: Building your own, Commercial Contactor
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Automatic or Manual?
by "Jack Knopf" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: FW: Jay Leno no friend of electric cars.
by "George Swartz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: FW: Jinxed! ( Now - Belktronix)
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Mechanical PWM Was: Building your own, Commercial Contactor
by "damon henry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Wierd EV Prototype
by "Simon Chambers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: AC Questions - Just got my donor pickup!!!-
by "Dmitri" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: FW: Jay Leno no friend of electric cars.
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Mechanical PWM Was: Building your own, Commercial Contactor
by "FRED JEANETTE MERTENS" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) unsubscribe
by "FRED JEANETTE MERTENS" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Mostly off topic - Basic Stamp kits for sale
by "damon henry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Mechanical PWM Was: Building your own, Commercial Contactor
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Mechanical PWM Was: Building your own, Commercial Contactor
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Wierd EV Prototype
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Wierd EV Prototype
by "Michael Perry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Batteries and Other Stuff. WASRe: Battery model/brand comparison chart
by Michael Barkley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Batteries and Other Stuff. WASRe: Battery model/brand comparison chart
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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My local track has let kids drive motorcycles on the track. I've seen 4
wheelers competing with junior dragsters. Hagerstown doesn't seem too up
tite.
Darin
BadFishRacing
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Humphrey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "EV" <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2007 10:55 AM
Subject: Re: FW: AGNS bike sets new NEDRA record
In light of receiving recent information, I would like to redirect the
below comments to Denis Stanislaw.
Also with the appropriate amount of accolade going to Shawn for his
dedication, inspiration and encouragement.
It goes beyond your shop.....
3 days, wow.
I have a 14 yr old son drooling about building something from scratch...
and PoDC is just weeks away...
Is there a minimum age limit at the track, for other than Jr. Dragsters.
Can a 14yr old drive a bike, how about a Legends car? Will Hagerstown let
me run a 50mph Elec-trak? ;-)
--
Stay Charged!
Hump
I-5, Blossvale NY
I read Shawn's post and thought.. "Hey cool! Way to go Shawn"
Then I read John's post and thought.. "HOLY SHIT!! Way to GO Shawn!!!"
--
Stay Charged!
Hump
I-5, Blossvale NY
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of John Wayland
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2007 10:11 AM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: AGNS bike sets new NEDRA record
Hello Shawn and All,
Wow, congrats on the new record!
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
On Wednesday evening the Lawless Industries AGNS (All Go No Show)
motorcycle set a new NEDRA 72 volt record for the 1/8th mile of 8.86
seconds @ 77.11 MPH on good old fashion, 3 year old Hawker
AGM's....with a stiff head wind and 54 degree temp but the little bike
didn't seem to mind on it's way to a 14.1 @ 87 mph 1/4 mile.
To put this into perspective, this little 72V bike ran a quicker 1/4
mile than an original 396 Chevelle big block muscle car. Here's another
comparison....though today's low 12 second White Zombie runs the 1/8
mile in the mid-7s, in 2001 at the Las Vegas NEDRA drags the low 14
--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/787 - Release Date: 5/3/2007
2:11 PM
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Jack Murray wrote:
The LEV200 can be purchased here:
http://www.onlinecomponents.com/product/3205172
I remind you that 3 of the last 4 I bought were defective, have another
3 coming today, we'll see if they work.
good news, all 3 replacements work :)
The diodes Lee mentioned are $20 on digikey, not in stock.
It should also be noted that the diodes have a 1.25v drop. This isn't a
big deal for a 100 volt connection, but if used for 12v, that's a 10% hit.
I'm most interested in having the contactor controller setup as a backup
in case the electronic controller fails. It would be nice to be able to
drive the car home if that happens. Swap a few cable connects and get
back on the road.
Jack
Chet Fields wrote:
Thanks Lee! That's exactly what I was looking for. Much better
arrangement with 2 Diodes and 1
contactor per block and I can build up using those blocks. I also like
the fact that I can get
regen at full voltage if I want.
Another question in regards to the AW80 contactor. Would it work for
me? As long as I watched the
amp draws carefully? I guess I am more worried about the voltage. The
LEV200 is a newer Kilovac
contactor. Around $60 I think. Not sure where to get them though.
12-900VDC and 500Amps. Would
that be better?
Thanks again,
Chet
--- Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
The rectactor circuit for *loading* the batteries has two diodes and
one SPST contactor per stage. Like this:
_______________B+
| |
_|_ D1 __|__+
/_\ ___ 18v
| S1 / | -
|____/ ____|
| |
__|__+ _|_
___ 18v /_\ D2
| - |
|__________|____B-
This is the basic building block you use to produce larger arrays.
Treat B+ and B- as the two terminals of a "battery" that has two
switchable voltages.
> I was hoping that I could get a bit more specific advice in regards
> to which components would be appropriate for this arrangement. I was
> thinking of the LEV200.
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--- Begin Message ---
Lee, if the regulator is totally bypassed and full pack voltage
applied to the field, my understanding is that output voltage will
try to rise very high (depending on RPM).
Peter VanDerWal wrote:
Yup, right up to the point where the field coils fry.
You don't connect the field to the (now) high voltage alternator output;
you connect it to the 12v battery (usually through a rheostat). You
manually adjust the field current to get the desired output voltage.
This is how those cheap "120v from a car alternator" converters work.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
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My favorite part was:
> My Baker still has some original alkaline batteries. These have lead plates
and use acid.
Sounds like he had an assistant write it up, and he didn't proof it.
Even Jay Leno can't be THAT stupid.
Marv
> From: Bill Dennis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: Fri, 04 May 2007 12:14:08 -0600
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Subject: Re: Jay Leno no friend of electric cars.
>
> It's from an article that Jay wrote for this month's Popular Mechanics.
>
> Bill Dennis
>
> GWMobile wrote:
>> Where did you get the jay leno quote and what quote do you have on his
>> steam car?
>>
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At 05:51 PM 4/05/07 -0500, Fred wrote:
a make before break with resistor will stop arcing ????
OK, make before break, so we have current flow from battery+, through the
motor to the closed switch, to B-. Now you close the suppression switch
that is across the motor so you have from battery+ through the suppression
switch, through the (still closed) power switch to battery-. Hmm, I think I
see a little problem with that...
so will arc shield suppressors !!!
Arc shields, like are used on large breakers to guide out the arc blast
away from things that would be damaged? Bzzzt, sorry, still not a useable
answer..
why the mystry ?
No mystery, but how much do you really learn when you are just told an
answer, rather than when you have to figure it out? Way back in the dim
dark ages past before any electronics were available, the answer was
something that very clever electrical engineers spent weeks or months in
calculating and tuning to get their design right.
Today there is an easy answer, hint: we have electronic parts today (Tim
has already 'let the cat out of the bag' as to the type of part). Work it
out and you'll remember it a lot better than if you are just told it. In
the discussion that we had a few months ago on mechanical PWM it was
something that I took as an essential part, just 'assumed' it was there as
it 'has' to be there, the obvious practical solution.
BTW, I am reasonably certain that a brushed mechanical PWM controller will
tend to burn its' brushes, so need brushes that are a lot bigger than the
brushes in the motor that it is controlling. This is due to as the brush
gets closer and closer to the 'break' point, the current is concentrated
more and more onto a smaller and smaller area of brush (so the longer and
thinner the brush is, the better) so that just before break all the current
is concentrated along a tiny edge of brush, overheating that edge and
burning it away - the longer that edge, the better the performance will be.
It is something that should work, I'd love to make one but time is not my
friend. It'll mean getting a commutator that is a lot bigger (longer) than
what we have in on-road DC motors, so Jim doesn't have suitable commutators
in his collection to use as donor parts.
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Humphrey
Research, and Think about what an electronic controller (EC) uses to
prevent "arcing" from destroying the FET's the first time they shut off.
A contactor/rectactor/drum controller doesn't require this device, but an
EC would immediately die without one.
Regards
[Technik] James
--- End Message ---
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I have learned much from you Roland,
and enjoy your posts.
Jack.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2007 5:49 PM
Subject: Re: Automatic or Manual?
Hello Marty,
This was not in the El Camino at the time which I transfer the motor,
controller and battery charger from a EV name Transformer I which was a
1975 Chevelle that I still have today in exact concurs perfect condition.
Transformer I had 90 each proto type 2 volt 300 ah cobalt lead acid cells
that were install in two heavy 1/4 inch thick aluminum cases that weigh
about 1500 lbs each. One in the front and one in the rear.
The total car weight was 7850 lbs. My daily driving was 2.54 miles to
work which 1.5 mile of it was a very steep hill. We at the time did not
have a speed limit here in Montana, so to attack this hill, I roller coast
it like you say truckers do. I had about 200 feet of drive to the inner
state exit entrance. From there it was a slight down hill run of about 1
mile before the base of this hill.
I would run up to 70 mph pulling about 600 amps at the time, and when
going up this hill, I would ever so slightly reduce the pressure on the
accelerator as to maintain 600 amps, slowing down to about 50 mph at the
start of a exist, which was still another 1/2 mile up which had a speed
limit of 35 mph.
The down hill run of this road took a different path, which went under the
uphill side of this road. I then have a longer 2 mile down hill run,
which I could coast all the way to my garage with out any additional
power.
Maybe, this is were the heavy 2 inch thick, 14 inch diameter may have
help. I do not make this run any more, because I retire from that job and
move another two miles further from this hill.
Once in a while I may go up this hill, which is now 1 mile of down hill, 1
mile of level driving, another mile of downhill and the last miles up this
hill. Coming down, I can still go the entire 5 miles which is a different
way down hill run, coasting all to way to and into my garage.
I did this run for 10 years, before I converted the EL Camino in 1986 to a
EV. I use the same motor, controller, battery charger, but use a 6 volt
Exide 235 AH battery. This El Camino ran for 15 years to 2000 which I
completely recondition it using air suspension, Mark Williams rear axle
and install Trojan T-145 260 AH batteries in April 2002, a Zilla 1K and a
PFC-50 charger which I am still running today.
The EV now weighs 6860 lbs which lost about 1000 lbs and plan to replace
the batteries and body panels with carbon fiber in 2012 April which will
drop it to about 5500 lbs which is the original gross weight of this
vehicle.
The El Camino Store in California which I get a lot of parts from, makes
complete carbon body panels and with a chrome moly frame, they have drop
there demo El Camino to 1800lbs with a 800 hp engine!!!
Now, how about that.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marty Hewes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2007 2:44 PM
Subject: Re: Automatic or Manual?
Hi Roland,
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Hello Marty,
>
> I have never push my accelerator on purpose to the floor, because I am
> scare that I would break something which I did one time when my foot
> slip
> off the break peddle onto the accelerator.
I can see that. You've got kind of an unstoppable force trying to move a
nearly immovable object thing going on there with the weight of your El
Camino. I wouldn't want to be in the middle. I'm hoping with only about
3000 lbs, my tires would break loose before anything breaks. The Jeep
rear
axle might be iffy, but I've got a spare Ford 9" around just in case.
> The motor coupler shear in half which was a large flange one that was
> turn
> down engine crank shaft. The motor amp meter peg at 800 amps and had a
> lot of battery post shrink back. The EV felt like it was hit in the
> back
> at 60 mph with a semi.
I was thinking about using the end of a Chevy crank as a core for a motor
hub, but you know, most Chevy cranks, small block V8's anyway, are only
cast
nodular iron. I don't know that it would be all that strong once I
drilled
out the center. The few forged steel Chevy cranks that I know of aren't
so
easy to find without paying big bucks. Do you know which yours was, cast
or
forged?
> Leaving my manual transmission in final gear with a axle ratio of
> 5.57:1,
> I can keep the motor ampere down below 500 amps at a normal
> acceleration
> and it will come down to 300 amps at a speed of 30 mph.
>
> I normally drive in 2nd gear which is a 13.5:1 overall ratio which I
> can
> keep it at 125-150 motor amps.
How often do you find yourself shifting to third in order to bring down
the
RPM to get more amps for a power boost for passing or something? I'm
wondering if gearing for 1 to 1 for cruising (best efficiency), and
having
an overdrive for passing would be a good idea?
>
> Roland
Marty
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GW Mobile,
I would have to go back to my high school chemistry book, but I think the
Edison alkaline battery uses potassium hydroxide electrolye, which is not an
acid. Also the metals involved are iron and nickel, but I do not know the
actual chemistry going on here. Lead is not involved at all.
I like and respect Jay Leno, and if, in fact, he has an old electric car,
more "power" to him. He has done a lot for the car hobby.
On Fri, 4 May 2007 10:52:58 -0700, GWMobile wrote
> What do you mean new?
> Don't all alkaline batteries use acid electrolyte?
>
> On Fri, 4 May 2007 9:58 am, George Swartz wrote:
> > Well, this is a new one: Alkaline battery that uses acid electrolyte.
> > Some
> > instantaneous high energy there!
> >
> > On Fri, 4 May 2007 10:29:22 -0600, Tim Humphrey wrote
> >> His agenda is really pretty simple.... Ratings!
> >>
> >> But this is kin to political so, 'nuff said.
> >>
> >> >
> >> > -----Original Message-----
> >> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> >> > Behalf Of Lawrence Rhodes
> >> > Sent: Friday, May 04, 2007 12:22 PM
> >> > To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List;
> >> > [EMAIL PROTECTED]; ETList; SFEVA;
> >> > [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED];
> >> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >> > Subject: Jay Leno no friend of electric cars.
> >> >
> >> > I'm not too bullish on electric cars as the way of the future.
> >> Modern
> >> > electric cars go roughly 100 miles on a charge, about the same as my
> >> > Baker;
> >> > so I don't see much progress there. I think electricity is a great
> >> power
> >> > source for a car. But the problem is, how do you get it?
> >> >
> >> > Thomas Edison invented the alkaline battery. My Baker still has some
> >> > original alkaline batteries. These have lead plates and use acid;
> >> we wash
> >> > them out and refill them regularly and I'll use them indefinitely.
> >> But
> >> > even
> >> > Edison realized the future of the automobile was elsewhere. Legend
> >> has it
> >> > that back in 1896, at a dinner party, he passed a note to his friend
> > Henry
> >> > Ford. Essentially it said, "The electric car is dead."
> >> >
> >> > How prophetic was that?
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > I can't believe Jay Leno (the ultimate car geek) compares a Baker
> > Electric
> >> > to a Rav4 EV. They may have the same range but not the same speed
> >> or
> >> > convienences. I'm sure he's taken a ride in a Tzero or Tesla. He
> >> at
> >> > times
> >> > acts like a spokesman for GM & then crows the 0 emmissions standard
> >> of
> > his
> >> > steam car. He is so contrary sometimes I just don't understand his
> >> > agenda.
> >> > Lawrence Rhodes....
> >> --
> >> Stay Charged!
> >> Hump
> >> I-5, Blossvale NY
>
> www.GlobalBoiling.com for daily images about hurricanes,
> globalwarming and the melting poles.
>
> www.ElectricQuakes.com daily solar and earthquake images.
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On 4 May 2007 at 9:14, Tim Humphrey wrote:
> But there is another EV'r building "less than Zilla"
> controllers and associated EV electronics.
>
> www.evcraft.com
>
> I have not dealt with him so cannot give a "rating" of craftmanship, just
> pointing out another option.
A friend of mine bought one of their chargers a few years ago. Here's what
he says about his experience :
"They have sent me 3 so far and the best one ran for about 10 seconds! I
have to pay for AIR MAIL back each time - $50.00. They absolutely will NOT
send a refund and there is no apparent way to get my $$ back."
As they say, your mileage may vary.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Administrator
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why the mystry ?
No mystery, but how much do you really learn when you are just told an
answer, rather than when you have to figure it out? Way back in the dim
dark ages past before any electronics were available, the answer was
something that very clever electrical engineers spent weeks or months in
calculating and tuning to get their design right.
Today there is an easy answer, hint: we have electronic parts today (Tim
has already 'let the cat out of the bag' as to the type of part). Work it
out and you'll remember it a lot better than if you are just told it. In
the discussion that we had a few months ago on mechanical PWM it was
something that I took as an essential part, just 'assumed' it was there as
it 'has' to be there, the obvious practical solution.
Cmon guys, the answer is soooo easy. OF COURSE I KNOW IT. I'll even
tell... you right after you figure it out on your own. Isn't this fun.
Really now, could there be anything more annoying than someone phishing for
an answer to something that they don't have a clue about by pretending they
know the answer but want everyone else to figure it out first. This is just
silly... (BTW I don't really think the original poster or James don't have
a clue. I'm sure they both have good answers although I doubt they are the
same.)
If you have a clever idea you think is worth sharing then share it, that is
what this list is all about. How many times has someone on this list shared
something freely with you even if it took them months or years to learn and
they had to do it the hard way. Did they make you play twenty questions
first...
damon
_________________________________________________________________
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Just spotted while browsing EBay!
I have no idea what this is or even if it will be road legal. Maybe it would
be a good starting point for someone building an EV from scratch?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ELECTRIC-CAR-VEHICLE-IMPORTED-A-C-MOTOR-1-IN-EUROPE_W0
QQitemZ120116419186QQihZ002QQcategoryZ18308QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Regards,
Si
___________________________________________________________
All new Yahoo! Mail "The new Interface is stunning in its simplicity and ease
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But, the truck will weigh more after conversion.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dale Ulan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2007 2:27 PM
Subject: RE: AC Questions - Just got my donor pickup!!!-
You might need to go with a DC system for that. AC systems with 150+ HP
don't look cheap.
Not cheap but nicer IMHO. Roughly 80-90kW (peak shaft power) ACIM
should be similar in performance to a 112kW ICE. If you have the
torque curve of the ACIM in question (and your ICE) you
should be able to use one of those acceleration simulators
to see how you're doing for performance.
AC55 is heavy but has lots of torque, it should out-pull
your ICE in most driving - your existing peak torque value
happens with this motor all the way from zero up to around
3000 RPM - it should out-pull your ICE up to this point. Above
that, torque will drop, and power will remain at around 100hp
'till redline. If you mostly drive your ICE below around 3500 RPM
or so, the AC55 should be more powerful than your ICE. Above that,
it'll pull less than your ICE. This assumes you can provide
312 volts (after sag) to the controller, but that should be easy
because you only have to do it for 250 amps.
-Dale
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George Swartz wrote:
GW Mobile,
I would have to go back to my high school chemistry book, but I think the
Edison alkaline battery uses potassium hydroxide electrolye, which is not an
acid. Also the metals involved are iron and nickel, but I do not know the
actual chemistry going on here. Lead is not involved at all.
Yep, Nickel-Iron is very similar to Nickel Cad. Which is what I'm
running in my truck these days with pretty good results.
I estimate that if I treat the batteries badly they might only last 50
years or so. Not sure if I could get 100 years, but then again Jay's
batteries were designed with replaceable separator material (pig intestine)
But the key is NiFe and NiCd batteries transfer power via ionic exchange
as opposed to Lead acid where the plates actually change from Lead to
lead oxide. Nothing really changes in a Nickel battery.
Chris
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I might be able to pass this off as legitimate by calling these mini EV's,
or pointing out that I have been clearing out alot of my precious piles to
raise funds for my new EV, but I won't try. I'll just say that I always
like to offer a bargain to list members before I sale to the general public,
and these actually do have some relevance for EVrs.
I have half a dozen New In Box Parallax BOE-Bot kits that I am planning on
listing on Ebay for $90 each with free shipping. I also have a couple of
opened kits. These are a lot of fun to play with, and the Basic Stamp that
comes with the kit can easily be used for all kinds of fun EV monitoring
circuits. This is a very nice educational kit. If you've ever wanted to
take a look at how to use microprocessors, these provide an engaging,
methodical approach. If you would like to have one send me what you think
is a reasonable offer. I will start listing them on Ebay in a few days.
Here is a link of what I am selling.
http://www.parallax.com/detail.asp?product_id=28132
damon
_________________________________________________________________
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>> why the mystery?
> No mystery, but how much do you really learn when you are just
> told an answer, rather than when you have to figure it out?
I agree! I do this with my BEST kids. Instead of answering their questions
directly, I give them hinds and lead them toward solving it themselves. One of
two things generally happens.
1. They accept it as a riddle, or game of 20 questions, and try to
solve it. When they succeed, there is a big "Aha!" They are happy,
and they remember it.
2. They refuse to think, and won't play the game. "Just tell me the
answer!" And if I do, they usually forget it anyway.
It's interesting that the younger the person, the more likely they are to do #1
-- and older the person, the more likely to do #2.
> Way back in the dim dark ages past before any electronics were
> available, the answer was something that very clever electrical
> engineers spent weeks or months in calculating and tuning to get
> their design right...
Actually, I know of at least 8 solutions to this problem that have been widely
used. There are a dozen solutions if you count ones that don't work very well,
but got used anyway by the ignorant, cheapskates, or poor designers.
--
I would not waste my life in friction when it could be turned into momentum. --
Frances Willard
--
Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
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At 08:19 PM 4/05/07 -0500, Fred wrote:
you may not like other peoples answer however we are NOT E.E. 'S SO IF YOU
WANT TO PLAY GAMES DO IT WITH OTHER EE'S YOU WILL NOT get anywhere
playing smarter than thou after all you are a genus . and we aren't
OK Fred, sorry for using a way to try to help you learn something that
isn't a way you liked. For what it is worth I am NOT an electrical or
electronic engineer, I am technical college trained as an electronics
technician. I've learned a lot by working things out and doing things, and
I understand a lot of things (as opposed to knowing a bit about them)
because I HAD to figure it out from basics. Because of this I have a
preference for trying to make people think things out for themselves -
including the technicians working for me, some of whom are becoming very
versatile technicians because of this.
You want the answer to the question without thinking through things, OK,
the answer is a diode, installed as a free-wheel diode, just the same as
pretty much all electronic PWM controllers use. We have discussed the
how-it-works of controllers often enough on this list, I thought that to
give you some hints would be enough to help you to think it through, I
guess I offended you by assuming that, sorry.
I'll shut up now, before I offend anyone else.
[Technik] James
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Maybe another Chinese NEV? With only 7kW in the drive it won't go very
fast. Even if not NEV limited, I doubt that it would exceed 35-40 mph.
Odd, it looks like it has a place for taillights, but they're not fitted.
It's left hand drive, but she's trying to sell it in the UK. Hmm.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Administrator
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Yep... and looks pretty grungy for a car imported a month ago. Very odd.
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2007 6:50 PM
Subject: Re: Wierd EV Prototype
> Maybe another Chinese NEV? With only 7kW in the drive it won't go very
> fast. Even if not NEV limited, I doubt that it would exceed 35-40 mph.
>
> Odd, it looks like it has a place for taillights, but they're not fitted.
>
> It's left hand drive, but she's trying to sell it in the UK. Hmm.
>
>
> David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
> EV List Administrator
>
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> Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation,
> or switch to digest mode? See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> Note: mail sent to "evpost" or "etpost" addresses will not reach me.
> To send a private message, please obtain my email address from
> the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ .
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
>
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Sorry it took me so long to post back an answer for
you. The TROJAN, T-105's cost $32.00 + $8.00 core
charge, since it's a new conversion, and I didn't have
any batteries to give the dealer. Anyhow, $40 each,
I'll see how they do. I just finished wiring them
into the car this evening, and hope to get out and try
them out tomorrow.
I'm going to keep a very close eye on each battery,
especially after what some have posted about BLEM's.
The vendor did say that if I ever had a problem, he'd
replace them at anytime, no questions asked. Now how
long he'll do this, who knows........
--- Rush <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Could you let us know what 'cost' is?
>
> Rush
> Tucson AZ
> www.ironandwood.org
> www.TEVA2.com
> www.Airphibian.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Michael Barkley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 12:21 PM
> Subject: Re: Batteries and Other Stuff. WASRe:
> Battery model/brand comparison chart
>
>
> > Thanks for all your help folks, I went ahead and
> > ordered 12ea of the BLEMISHED, T105's, he couldn't
> get
> > enough T145's all at once. The dealer gave them
> to me
> > at cost since I'm the first he'd ever heard of in
> the
> > area, doing an EV conversion. I'll let you all
> know
> > how BLEM's work out.
>
>
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Barkley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2007 12:02 AM
Subject: Re: Batteries and Other Stuff. WASRe: Battery model/brand
comparison chart
> Sorry it took me so long to post back an answer for
> you. The TROJAN, T-105's cost $32.00 + $8.00 core
> charge, since it's a new conversion, and I didn't have
> any batteries to give the dealer. Anyhow, $40 each,
> I'll see how they do. I just finished wiring them
> into the car this evening, and hope to get out and try
> them out tomorrow.
>
> I'm going to keep a very close eye on each battery,
> especially after what some have posted about BLEM's.
> The vendor did say that if I ever had a problem, he'd
> replace them at anytime, no questions asked. Now how
> long he'll do this, who knows........
> Hi Mike an' All;
Good deal! Especially he sez that he will replace a bum one! I, too,
never had any issues with Bum Blem Badd-eries, ether. My first pak, USED T
105's lasted me through a very abusive 20k miles. Blems are NEW, usually
have gouges or dings or(Gasp!) posts knocked off in shipping. We got good at
fixing that!One OTHER stupid thing was "BLEM" branded on the top a bit over
enthusiasticly, so it leaked there. The damn plastic is pretty thin
skinned!They mark them like cattle with a "Bleming" iron. Sorry, couldn't
resist! When this guy is "outed" he will sell all the blems quick!Bless your
Windfall!
Core(Corpse) charges are going UP like mad, wish the recycler would do
better than 2 bux a badd-ery!Maybe I should save all the dead ones to play
the market? Weeded about 3 out of the Jetta so far! Boy! I had one a real
Trojan Teakettle, sagging to below 90 volts just going down the road at
about 150 amps! Dumped that one and WOW! A rock solid 115 volts @ 150-200
amps and going right along.What a difference! Voltage sag Kills your Ride!
Don't just live with 10-15 Volts drop! FIX IT! You will thank yurself, and
me! Of course I don't know HOW fast? Godamn Speedo doesn't work! But running
with the traffic.As I have said it is a work in progress. I LOVE the power
steering! When parking ya slip the clutch to keep the motor running to pump
the PS fluid. A quirk ya get used to.I'm sure the ride and handling will
improve with the rear end off the blox?In all, the Jetta makes a nice doner
AFTER I get all the built in Jokes Wagen electrical issues streightened out.
Lights, Radio(it USED to work) Instrument panel lights, like whacking moles
you fix one thing and........But car sat a few years BEFORE I worked it
over, worst thing you can do to ANY car. Same think killed my Cursit
controller, the Sentra car sat outside for awile til I built a garage over
it. Too late, inside the controller it looked like it was salvaged off the
Titanic!Only Jay Leno can afford climatically controlled "Weather" garages.
Sigh. I remember Mad Magazine YEARS ago an home improvement article about
"How to convert your Family Room to a Garage" 25cents, cheap daze! Had I
taken the godamn controller OUT of the car and , say, put it on a bookshelf
in the warm dry house?Or used it for a doorstop or industrial "object de
art?"Sigh!I have a smattering of EV parts around the house, anyhow!
Seeya
Bob
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