EV Digest 6820
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) RE: New Member and a Project
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) RE: What batteries to use?
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) set ev mail postpone
by "David Hrivnak" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Another new member consulting list on a first time project
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
5) Re: Copper tubing & Silver Plating for bussbars ?
by Steve Condie <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Anyone heard from Electro Automotive these days?
by Tim Kutscha <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) RE: Anyone heard from Electro Automotive these days?
by "Dustin Stern" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Another new member consulting list on a first time project
by "George Swartz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Another new member consulting list on a first time project
by Bill Dube <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Anyone heard from Electro Automotive these days?
by Tehben Dean <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Anyone heard from Electro Automotive these days?
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
12) Re: Another new member consulting list on a first time project
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Transmission Question
by "John J Januszewski" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Another new member consulting list on a first time project
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
15) Re: Another new member consulting list on a first time project
by "Marty Hewes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Another new member consulting list on a first time project
by "George Swartz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Zivan charger overvoltage?
by "Al" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Lots of KillaCycle News
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
19) Starting business...
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
20) Re: Starting business...
by Steve Peterson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) RE: Starting business...
by "damon henry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Starting business...
by Dave Stensland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: FW: Transmission Question
by Tim Humphrey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Timothy W. Foreman wrote:
> I like the looks of the Delta-Q QuiQ chargers. Any good place
> to buy them?
Off the top of my head, Canadian Electric Vehicles:
<http://www.canev.com/KitsComp/Components/Chargers.html>
And eTec:
<http://www.etecevs.com/>
(Note that while both advertise the QuiQ-dci model with integrated 400W
DC/DC in addition to the standard model, the -dci model is not presently
available as we are still waiting on a UL-approved connector for it.)
Cheers,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Chip Gribben wrote:
> So should I use Orbitals, Yellow Tops, Blue Tops, Hawkers or just
> stick with the 8-volt batteries again and do the usual swap
> out every year? Or I could just race with the 8-volters with a
> higher amp controller. The 8-volters do have some good pick-up
> after the pack is fully charged but they are heavy at about 67
> pounds each and a NEDRA record just is never going to happen with
> them.
What is your range with the 8V batteries (well, when they were healthy
;^)? (Ideally, how many Wh/mi does your Escort consume?)
You mention wanting 40mi minimum, and I wonder how much that differs
from what you have at present, and from how much you actually use on a
daily basis.
I could be mistaken, but I think the Raptor 600->1200 "upgrade" is of
the form you send in your 600A controller and receive a new 1200A unit
with some sort of credit for your old core. Unless you upgrade to AGMs,
I don't think you'll get enough benefit from the higher current limit to
make it worthwhile due to voltage sag with the 8V floodies. Even your
600A controller is capable of shortening their life if you take
advantage of it frequently.
With a Raptor 600, if you stick with the pack swap approach, you might
consider a lightweight racing pack of 16Ah or 26Ah Hawkers instead of
the heavier Optima or Exide batteries that you really can't fully
utilise. If you were to move up to a Z1K or Z2K, then a string of
Orbitals for racing might make sense (and then turn the screws back down
for daily driving with the flooded pack).
Cheers,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
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--- Begin Message ---
Hello!
After reading EV boards for about 4 months non-stop, I cannot keep buying
gasoline anymore. I live very close to all I need (well within EV range!) and
have been driving a 4 stroke honda scooter around during the warm months. I do
NOT want to have to drive my car this winter!
Its time to convert!
I have located 2 rabbit converts that have bad engines in my area (albany NY)
I am looking at them sometime this week...what should I look for in the donor
cars?
I am mildly mechanically inclined. Have been working on my ICE cars for 11
years. I will need to rent a garage in the area to do the entire conversion!
I am VERY excited...this summer project could be so worthwile!
Thanks,
Anthony
--- End Message ---
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--- Begin Message ---
I had the same problem reaching them back in February. I know Ken at KTA
basically retired from working the hobbyist market, maybe EA did too.
Dustin
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Tim Kutscha
Sent: Monday, May 28, 2007 10:00 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Anyone heard from Electro Automotive these days?
Hi All,
I hope your Memorial Day weekend went well.
I'm currently converting a Porsche 914 using the AC kit
from Electro Automotive.
Has anyone heard from them recently? I've sent three
e-mails and a phone call regarding status of the battery
racks/boxes and received no response. This has been
happening over the course of the last three weeks.
Does anyone know if EA is on vacation or otherwise
occupied?
Thanks for your response,
Tim
http://914ev.blogspot.com
____________________________________________________________________________
________Building a website is a piece of cake. Yahoo! Small Business gives
you all the tools to get online.
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/webhosting
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Anthony, Talk to someone else who has done a convertible conversion.
Unibody convertibles have weaker body shells than coupes or sedans. It sure
would be a fun car but the battery pack, if you use lead batteries, will be
quite heavy. For lead, you will need at lease 25% of the GVW in batteries
for minimum range and performance. It is better to have nearly 50% of GVW
in batteries. I am personally looking at small pick up trucks like the S10
or Ranger for the following reasons: 1. Batteries will be outside the
passenger compartment. 2. GVW can be kept within or only slightly exceeding
vehicle manufacturer's recommended limit. and 3. I plan to make a toneau
cover with solar cells. I believe I can accumulate at least one mile of
range for every hour of sunshine.
On Mon, 28 May 2007 16:58:55 -0700, anthony wrote
> Hello!
>
> After reading EV boards for about 4 months non-stop, I cannot keep
> buying gasoline anymore. I live very close to all I need (well
> within EV range!) and have been driving a 4 stroke honda scooter
> around during the warm months. I do NOT want to have to drive my
> car this winter!
>
> Its time to convert!
>
> I have located 2 rabbit converts that have bad engines in my area
> (albany NY)
>
> I am looking at them sometime this week...what should I look for in
> the donor cars?
>
> I am mildly mechanically inclined. Have been working on my ICE cars
> for 11 years. I will need to rent a garage in the area to do the
> entire conversion!
>
> I am VERY excited...this summer project could be so worthwile!
>
> Thanks,
>
> Anthony
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Look for a car that you would be proud to drive in exactly the
condition that it is in. Do NOT start with a crappy car. It will cost
more to fix up a crappy car than it would to simply buy a car in nice
condition.
You can buy a car with a good running engine and then sell the
engine. Be sure to sell the engine BEFORE you take it out. Folks will
want to drive the car to see how the engine runs.
I have a converted 1985 VW Rabbit convertible (Cabriolet) and I am
very happy with it.
There are a few pictures of it in the photos section of the
KillaCycle web page:
http://www.killacycle.com
Bill Dube'
At 05:58 PM 5/28/2007, you wrote:
Hello!
After reading EV boards for about 4 months non-stop, I cannot keep
buying gasoline anymore. I live very close to all I need (well
within EV range!) and have been driving a 4 stroke honda scooter
around during the warm months. I do NOT want to have to drive my
car this winter!
Its time to convert!
I have located 2 rabbit converts that have bad engines in my area (albany NY)
I am looking at them sometime this week...what should I look for in
the donor cars?
I am mildly mechanically inclined. Have been working on my ICE cars
for 11 years. I will need to rent a garage in the area to do the
entire conversion!
I am VERY excited...this summer project could be so worthwile!
Thanks,
Anthony
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I just go an email from them tonight.
It seems that Azure Dynamics is still producing the controller and
motor for the AC kits and they have a 1 year warranty.
Tehben
On May 28, 2007, at 6:14 PM, Dustin Stern wrote:
I had the same problem reaching them back in February. I know Ken
at KTA
basically retired from working the hobbyist market, maybe EA did too.
Dustin
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:owner-
[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Tim Kutscha
Sent: Monday, May 28, 2007 10:00 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Anyone heard from Electro Automotive these days?
Hi All,
I hope your Memorial Day weekend went well.
I'm currently converting a Porsche 914 using the AC kit
from Electro Automotive.
Has anyone heard from them recently? I've sent three
e-mails and a phone call regarding status of the battery
racks/boxes and received no response. This has been
happening over the course of the last three weeks.
Does anyone know if EA is on vacation or otherwise
occupied?
Thanks for your response,
Tim
http://914ev.blogspot.com
______________________________________________________________________
______
________Building a website is a piece of cake. Yahoo! Small
Business gives
you all the tools to get online.
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/webhosting
--- End Message ---
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--- Begin Message ---
Sorry, but I have just a couple of issues on the post:
1) The convertible VW Rabbit is actually _heavier_
than the equivalent hatch. The reason is that without
the top, it loses structural integrity. So someone
told me long ago that it had add'l steel underneath to
make up for it. Also, access to the batteries is more
limited, IIRC.
2) How one can get to nearly 50% GVW in batteries is
beyond me. Examples?
Good luck with your decision(s),
--- George Swartz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Anthony, Talk to someone else who has done a
> convertible conversion.
> Unibody convertibles have weaker body shells than
> coupes or sedans. It sure
> would be a fun car but the battery pack, if you use
> lead batteries, will be
> quite heavy. For lead, you will need at lease 25%
> of the GVW in batteries
> for minimum range and performance. It is better to
> have nearly 50% of GVW
> in batteries. I am personally looking at small pick
> up trucks like the S10
> or Ranger for the following reasons: 1. Batteries
> will be outside the
> passenger compartment. 2. GVW can be kept within or
> only slightly exceeding
> vehicle manufacturer's recommended limit. and 3. I
> plan to make a toneau
> cover with solar cells. I believe I can accumulate
> at least one mile of
> range for every hour of sunshine.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Mon, 28 May 2007 16:58:55 -0700, anthony wrote
> > Hello!
> >
> > After reading EV boards for about 4 months
> non-stop, I cannot keep
> > buying gasoline anymore. I live very close to all
> I need (well
> > within EV range!) and have been driving a 4 stroke
> honda scooter
> > around during the warm months. I do NOT want to
> have to drive my
> > car this winter!
> >
> > Its time to convert!
> >
> > I have located 2 rabbit converts that have bad
> engines in my area
> > (albany NY)
> >
> > I am looking at them sometime this week...what
> should I look for in
> > the donor cars?
> >
> > I am mildly mechanically inclined. Have been
> working on my ICE cars
> > for 11 years. I will need to rent a garage in the
> area to do the
> > entire conversion!
> >
> > I am VERY excited...this summer project could be
> so worthwile!
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Anthony
>
>
Converting a gen. 5 Honda Civic? My $20 video/DVD
has my '92 sedan, as well as a del Sol and hatch too!
Learn more at:
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
____________________________________________________________________________________Get
the free Yahoo! toolbar and rest assured with the added security of spyware
protection.
http://new.toolbar.yahoo.com/toolbar/features/norton/index.php
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Peter,
I have a T-5 in my kitcar. I put heavy oil in it at first and the syncros
wouldn't work. I drained the oil and put the ATF that is supposed to be in
it back and the syncros started working again. It sounds strange because it
is not an automatic but it was designed to have ATF in it.
If someone already told you this, I'm sorry for repeating. I haven't looked
at the other posts on theis thread.
Be Well,
John J Januszewski
www.jcomposites.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Adam McLeod" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, May 28, 2007 8:48 AM
Subject: Re: Transmission Question
Hello Peter,
To add to a few comments you already have. If it is indeed a T-5
transmission, 85WT gear oil is not what you should be running. The T-5
was designed to run with a lower viscosity oil, and the 85WT will likely
be compromising the lubrication in the transmission, and shortening it's
life. The heavy gear oil won't be able to go where it needs to. Also in
the design, many of the needle roller bearings don't have shells, the
rollers run right on the shafts and gears. If the lack of lubrication has
damaged the bearings, then it will be the shafts and gear bores that have
taken much of the abuse. In the rebuild kit I got for my transmission, it
comes with new rollers and cages, but that won't fix things if the races
are damaged.
If you decide to go ahead and rebuild the transmission, the end play on
the main shaft is CRITICAL. If the end play is too loose, then the main
shaft can deflect, skip a gear, then destroy the transmission. Been there
and done that.
Since T-5's are so common and so cheap, I would just get another one, and
install that. I can get a used T-5 around here for less than the price of
a rebuild kit. If the needle bearings are damaged, you can't fix them
anyways.
Best Regards,
Adam
----- Original Message -----
Subject: Transmission Question
Date: Sun, May 27, 2007 20:17
From: "Peter Eckhoff" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
May 27, 2007
Transmission question
There are many people on this listserv who know the mechanics of cars
better than I, and I ask for your advice. It's about the transmission
in my electric
truck.
I converted a 1988 Chevy S-10 pickup to electric in 2000. It had
about 120K miles when I did the conversion, and I have driven it about
25K miles since. The transmission is a 5-speed stick, made by
Borg-Warner, and I am
told
that it was a very common transmission for 1980's GM cars and small
trucks. This is good.
I did nothing with the transmission when I converted it. It was filled
with automatic transmission fluid, which a local mechanic said was OK.
However in a
couple years it started to leak through the rear seal and the gasket
between its two
main housings. To minimize the leak, I drained the AT fluid and
replaced it with 85-weight gear oil. This worked, reducing but not
eliminating the
leak, and I keep an eye on it never to let it get too low, though there
is a nice hard
oil spot in my gravel driveway now.
In the last year some things have gotten worse. First and second gears
are noisy,
while third and fourth are quiet. I
never use fifth. Reverse makes a grinding sound, louder than 1st or 2nd.
It is sometimes difficult to shift into 1st, 2nd, and reverse. 3rd and
4th are always easy.
I am unhappy with the noise it is making. One of the main
characteristics of an EV is its silence, and the transmission, in 1st
and 2nd, is as
noisy as a
small gas car.
I will to pull the motor-transmission-clutch disk assembly and inspect
it. Assuming I find nothing unusual, I am not sure what to do with the
transmission. So
here are several questions:
As an electrical engineer who has the usual mechanics tools, but
nothing special for a transmission, am I competent to rebuild the
transmission?
Should I?
Should I take the transmission to a transmission shop for an rebuild?
Is there one in the Chapel Hill-Durham-Raleigh area [of North Carolina]
that you
would recommend? Can you
speculate on the cost?
Should I buy a rebuilt transmission? A new one? Costs?
What are the consequences of doing nothing?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
EXCELLENT ADVISE
Thank you for your imput. There aren't any 4 or 2 door Rabbits around right
now.
Anthony
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Bath" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Subject: Re: Another new member consulting list on a first time project
> Date: Mon, 28 May 2007 20:11:09 -0700 (PDT)
>
>
> Sorry, but I have just a couple of issues on the post:
> 1) The convertible VW Rabbit is actually _heavier_
> than the equivalent hatch. The reason is that without
> the top, it loses structural integrity. So someone
> told me long ago that it had add'l steel underneath to
> make up for it. Also, access to the batteries is more
> limited, IIRC.
> 2) How one can get to nearly 50% GVW in batteries is
> beyond me. Examples?
> Good luck with your decision(s),
>
> --- George Swartz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> >
> > Anthony, Talk to someone else who has done a
> > convertible conversion. Unibody convertibles have weaker body shells than
> > coupes or sedans. It sure would be a fun car but the battery
> > pack, if you use
> > lead batteries, will be quite heavy. For lead, you will need at lease 25%
> > of the GVW in batteries for minimum range and performance. It is better to
> > have nearly 50% of GVW in batteries. I am personally looking at small pick
> > up trucks like the S10 or Ranger for the following reasons: 1. Batteries
> > will be outside the passenger compartment. 2. GVW can be kept within or
> > only slightly exceeding vehicle manufacturer's recommended limit. and 3. I
> > plan to make a toneau cover with solar cells. I believe I can accumulate
> > at least one mile of range for every hour of sunshine. On Mon,
> > 28 May 2007 16:58:55 -0700, anthony wrote
> > > Hello!
> > > > After reading EV boards for about 4 months
> > non-stop, I cannot keep > buying gasoline anymore. I live very close to all
> > I need (well > within EV range!) and have been driving a 4 stroke
> > honda scooter > around during the warm months. I do NOT want to
> > have to drive my > car this winter!
> > > > Its time to convert!
> > > > I have located 2 rabbit converts that have bad
> > engines in my area > (albany NY)
> > > > I am looking at them sometime this week...what
> > should I look for in > the donor cars?
> > > > I am mildly mechanically inclined. Have been
> > working on my ICE cars > for 11 years. I will need to rent a garage in the
> > area to do the > entire conversion!
> > > > I am VERY excited...this summer project could be
> > so worthwile!
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > Anthony
> >
> >
>
>
> Converting a gen. 5 Honda Civic? My $20 video/DVD
> has my '92 sedan, as well as a del Sol and hatch too!
> Learn more at:
> www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
> ____
> __/__|__\ __
> =D-------/ - - \
> 'O'-----'O'-'
> Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the
> steering wheel? Are you saving any gas for your kids?
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________________________Get
> the free Yahoo! toolbar and rest assured with the added security of spyware
> protection.
> http://new.toolbar.yahoo.com/toolbar/features/norton/index.php
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The Jeep CJ-7 I'm building is currently at 1600 lbs without the motor, trans
and batteries, but the frame, brakes and running gear are designed for 4300
lbs GVWR. 50% batteries should be easy without reaching the design limits,
even with my 200 lbs in it, if I can find room for the batteries, and enough
cash.
Marty
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Bath" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, May 28, 2007 10:11 PM
Subject: Re: Another new member consulting list on a first time project
Sorry, but I have just a couple of issues on the post:
1) The convertible VW Rabbit is actually _heavier_
than the equivalent hatch. The reason is that without
the top, it loses structural integrity. So someone
told me long ago that it had add'l steel underneath to
make up for it. Also, access to the batteries is more
limited, IIRC.
2) How one can get to nearly 50% GVW in batteries is
beyond me. Examples?
Good luck with your decision(s),
--- George Swartz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Bob, my hands on experience is pretty old, and I apologize for it. I have
built and worked on a number of conversions and a couple of groud up EV's
where we, as a goal, tried to get 50% GVW in batteries to maximize range.
Using old technology lead flooded batteries (hard rubber cases, no less) ,
we typically got 60 miles or more on a new set of batteries and we came
pretty close to the magic 50%. One interesting vehicle was a drivable
chassis made as a demo vehicle for Copper Development using an AC cobra
chassis and a 2000lb battery pack.
You can play mathematical games, and assume that the car weighs nothing and
is all battery. This yields the maximum theoretical performance of the
battery alone, which for lead, is kind of dismal.
I guess what I was trying to say, is that if one is making a conversion and
wants high performance, this means a higher percentage of GVW in batteries.
In my opinion only, convertibles are a higher risk than closed bodies when
manufacturers maximum GVW is going to be exceeded, even with the underbody
strengthening that convertibles receive. Its only one of many
considerations in choosing a body for ev conversion.
On Mon, 28 May 2007 20:11:09 -0700 (PDT), Bob Bath wrote
> Sorry, but I have just a couple of issues on the post:
> 1) The convertible VW Rabbit is actually _heavier_
> than the equivalent hatch. The reason is that without
> the top, it loses structural integrity. So someone
> told me long ago that it had add'l steel underneath to
> make up for it. Also, access to the batteries is more
> limited, IIRC.
> 2) How one can get to nearly 50% GVW in batteries is
> beyond me. Examples?
> Good luck with your decision(s),
>
> --- George Swartz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> >
> > Anthony, Talk to someone else who has done a
> > convertible conversion.
> > Unibody convertibles have weaker body shells than
> > coupes or sedans. It sure
> > would be a fun car but the battery pack, if you use
> > lead batteries, will be
> > quite heavy. For lead, you will need at lease 25%
> > of the GVW in batteries
> > for minimum range and performance. It is better to
> > have nearly 50% of GVW
> > in batteries. I am personally looking at small pick
> > up trucks like the S10
> > or Ranger for the following reasons: 1. Batteries
> > will be outside the
> > passenger compartment. 2. GVW can be kept within or
> > only slightly exceeding
> > vehicle manufacturer's recommended limit. and 3. I
> > plan to make a toneau
> > cover with solar cells. I believe I can accumulate
> > at least one mile of
> > range for every hour of sunshine.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On Mon, 28 May 2007 16:58:55 -0700, anthony wrote
> > > Hello!
> > >
> > > After reading EV boards for about 4 months
> > non-stop, I cannot keep
> > > buying gasoline anymore. I live very close to all
> > I need (well
> > > within EV range!) and have been driving a 4 stroke
> > honda scooter
> > > around during the warm months. I do NOT want to
> > have to drive my
> > > car this winter!
> > >
> > > Its time to convert!
> > >
> > > I have located 2 rabbit converts that have bad
> > engines in my area
> > > (albany NY)
> > >
> > > I am looking at them sometime this week...what
> > should I look for in
> > > the donor cars?
> > >
> > > I am mildly mechanically inclined. Have been
> > working on my ICE cars
> > > for 11 years. I will need to rent a garage in the
> > area to do the
> > > entire conversion!
> > >
> > > I am VERY excited...this summer project could be
> > so worthwile!
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Anthony
> >
> >
>
> Converting a gen. 5 Honda Civic? My $20 video/DVD
> has my '92 sedan, as well as a del Sol and hatch too!
> Learn more at:
> www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
> ____
> __/__|__\ __
> =D-------/ - - \
> 'O'-----'O'-'
> Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the
> steering wheel? Are you saving any gas for your kids?
>
>
_____________________________________________________________________________
_______Get the free Yahoo! toolbar and rest assured with the added security
of spyware protection.
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello fellow EVer's. While my truck was recharging the other day, I decided
to check the voltage across one of the T-125 batteries. I got a reading of
8.18 volts! That works out to 2.73 volts per cell! Isn't that too high? What
would be the proper finishing voltage across a pack of 20 T-125 batteries?
Thanks for any comments. Al
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
See!!!
It just keeps getting better and better!
See you at the Power of DC!!
Ken
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Dube <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Sent: Sun, 27 May 2007 11:09 am
Subject: Lots of KillaCycle News
We have been busy lately. I'm going to put this info up on the website
soon, but I thought I'd give you folks a sneak preview:
NEDRA Wayland Invitational July 13th-14th <<
We are all set to go to the Wayland Invitational at PIR July
13th-14th. We are very excited about this.
Wired NextFest Sept 13th - 16th <<
We have been invited to the Wired magazine "NextFest", Sept 13 - 16
in L.A. and we are gearing up to go. This is the ultimate "latest
technology" exhibit and we are honored to be invited.
http://www.wirednextfest.com/
NHRA Nationals Oct 24th - 28th <<
We still have some details to take care of, but it looks like we will
be running exhibition at the NHRA Nationals at Las Vegas October 24th
through the 28th. This is also a real honor to get a slot in this very
major drag racing event.
Newest KillaCycle Team member, Rebecca <<<
As you can see, things are really hopping for us lately. We have a
new team member that you will all get to meet at the Wayland
Invitational. Rebecca Bowering has joined on both as a pit crew member
and (thank god) to help us with the display type shows. We have been
turning down invitations to display the KillaCycle because we just
don't have the vacation time to spare to transport and display the bike
at all these events. In addition to being on the pit crew at racing
events, Rebecca is our new, self-appointed, "Road Show Princess". She
will take care of all our display type events, letting the rest of us
concentrate on making the bike go faster. She will book these events,
drive the rig to trade shows and car shows, set up the display, and man
the booth to tell folks all about the KillaCycle, the batteries, EV
drag racing, etc.
We are delighted to find such a charming, intelligent, and
knowledgeable person to take care of this end of the racing program for
us.
You can see a few snapshots of Rebecca in the team photos section of
the KillaCycle web page:
http://www.killacycle.com/photos/teamphotos/
and also in the calendar girls section of Electrifying Times:
http://www.electrifyingtimes.com/KillaCycle/rebecca_bowering_killacycle_pit.html
Bill Dube'
________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free
from AOL at AOL.com.
=0
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey all, this is a bit premature, but I thought I would throw this out
there for some feedback.
I am starting a business producing electronic stuff for EVs. My
intention is to help the EV world and build myself a retirement
business. It will certainly take some time because I still have a "day
job", but, this is what I have been doing at my "day job" since the
80's.
I have named it Hot Juice Electric and have started a "beginners"
website. http://www.hotjuiceelectric.com.
Comments, suggestions, advice???
Ken
________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free
from AOL at AOL.com.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Tue, 2007-05-29 at 09:03 -0400, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I have named it Hot Juice Electric and have started a "beginners"
> website. http://www.hotjuiceelectric.com.
>
> Comments, suggestions, advice???
>
First suggestion is: stick something other than "Home" in your title
section so that when people bookmark it they get something meaningful
for a bookmark label :-)
--Steve
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have a suggestion. Build me an affordable amp hour counter. That is the
only function an e-meter gives me that I can't easily get elsewhere, and the
e-meters are just too darn fragile. Even experienced EV'rs who have been
using them for years destroy one every once in a while. I've purchased two.
The first was DOA, the second has an annoying habit of constantly adding
.6 ahrs to my pack no matter what I try.
Getting an appropriate volt meter and ammeter are simple as they come off
the shelf in all different shapes and sizes, but since I am using NiCads I
really need an amp hour counter, and the only option besides an emeter that
I am aware of are the expensive Brusa ones that Victor sales. How hard can
it be to read the voltage off my shunt and and keep track of what is
happening?
thanks
damon
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Starting business...
Date: Tue, 29 May 2007 09:03:39 -0400
Hey all, this is a bit premature, but I thought I would throw this out
there for some feedback.
I am starting a business producing electronic stuff for EVs. My intention
is to help the EV world and build myself a retirement business. It will
certainly take some time because I still have a "day job", but, this is
what I have been doing at my "day job" since the 80's.
I have named it Hot Juice Electric and have started a "beginners" website.
http://www.hotjuiceelectric.com.
Comments, suggestions, advice???
Ken
________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free
from AOL at AOL.com.
_________________________________________________________________
Make every IM count. Download Messenger and join the im Initiative now.
Its free. http://im.live.com/messenger/im/home/?source=TAGHM_MAY07
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I wish you lots of luck. Here some quick suggestions...
1) Please turn off the pop-up ads on your website.
2) Add some additional contact info... city, state, etc.
3) More details about your products... availability, specs, prices, etc.
4) Add a title to your home page.
-Dave
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hey all, this is a bit premature, but I thought I would throw this out
there for some feedback.
I am starting a business producing electronic stuff for EVs. My
intention is to help the EV world and build myself a retirement
business. It will certainly take some time because I still have a "day
job", but, this is what I have been doing at my "day job" since the 80's.
I have named it Hot Juice Electric and have started a "beginners"
website. http://www.hotjuiceelectric.com.
Comments, suggestions, advice???
Ken
________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free
from AOL at AOL.com.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I recognize those symptoms...
You have a T-5 and the input shaft bearing is worn, shot, or missing.
I say missing because the "first" time I replaced mine we could only find one
half of one of the balls. The rest of the bearing had been pulverized by the
transmission. It is a common industrial bearing. Find a replacement by size at
a local merchant. It will be stronger and cheaper than getting a replacement
bearing from your local GM Dealer.
In my truck ('94 Silverado), the input shaft bearing was good for about 30,000
miles. It actually doesn't need the bearing. But, like you said it is noisy as
hell without it. Some will say that I am nuts suggesting it doesn't need the
bearing. But after the third bearing went bad I got the attitude that I am NOT
REPLACING that F..ing bearing again. Went well over 60,000 miles with it shot.
Yeah, it was noisy. Got rid of that truck a year ago with 207,000 miles on the
ticker. That bearing was the ONLY major malfunction up until I parted with it.
It's still on the road......
--
Stay Charged!
Hump
I-5, Blossvale NY
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> Behalf Of Peter Eckhoff
> Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2007 8:18 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Subject: Transmission Question
>
> May 27, 2007
>
> Transmission question
>
> There are many people on this listserv who know the mechanics of cars
> better than I, and I ask for your advice. It's about the transmission
> in my electric
> truck.
>
> I converted a 1988 Chevy S-10 pickup to electric in 2000. It had
> about 120K miles when I did the conversion, and I have driven it about
> 25K miles since. The transmission is a 5-speed stick, made by
> Borg-Warner, and I am told
> that it was a very common transmission for 1980's GM cars and small
> trucks. This is good.
>
> I did nothing with the transmission when I converted it. It was filled
> with automatic transmission fluid, which a local mechanic said was OK.
> However in a
> couple years it started to leak through the rear seal and the gasket
> between its two
> main housings. To minimize the leak, I drained the AT fluid and
> replaced it with 85-weight gear oil. This worked, reducing but not
> eliminating the
> leak, and I keep an eye on it never to let it get too low, though there
> is a nice hard
> oil spot in my gravel driveway now.
>
> In the last year some things have gotten worse. First and second gears
> are noisy, while third and fourth are quiet. I
> never use fifth. Reverse makes a grinding sound, louder than 1st or 2nd.
> It is sometimes difficult to shift into 1st, 2nd, and reverse. 3rd and
> 4th are always easy.
>
> I am unhappy with the noise it is making. One of the main
> characteristics of an EV is its silence, and the transmission, in 1st
> and 2nd, is as noisy as a
> small gas car.
>
> I will to pull the motor-transmission-clutch disk assembly and inspect
> it. Assuming I find nothing unusual, I am not sure what to do with the
> transmission. So
> here are several questions:
>
> As an electrical engineer who has the usual mechanics tools, but
> nothing special for a transmission, am I competent to rebuild the
> transmission? Should I?
> Should I take the transmission to a transmission shop for an rebuild?
> Is there one in the Chapel Hill-Durham-Raleigh area [of North Carolina]
> that you would recommend? Can you
> speculate on the cost?
>
> Should I buy a rebuilt transmission? A new one? Costs?
> What are the consequences of doing nothing?
>
> Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
--- End Message ---
