EV Digest 6823
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Another new member consulting list - now, DC-DC 's
by "Adrian DeLeon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) New member from Ward, Colorado
by "Zeke Yewdall" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Another new member consulting list on a first time project
by "Adrian DeLeon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Was Re: Another new member cons. now DCDC
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Copper tubing & Silver Plating for bussbars ?
by "Roy LeMeur" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Starting business...
by "damon henry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) This is only a test, had it been a true emergency.........
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Copper tubing & Silver Plating for bussbars ?
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Copper tubing & Silver Plating for bussbars ?
by "Roy LeMeur" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Another new member consulting list - now, DC-DC 's
by "Adrian DeLeon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Last minute Power of DC stuff #2
by Chip Gribben <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: EV digest 6822
by Chip Gribben <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Charging batteries in parallel (Rescue GEM)
by Ricky Suiter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Another new member consulting list - now, DC-DC 's
by "Phil Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Another new member consulting list - now, DC-DC 's
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Another new member consulting list - now, DC-DC 's
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Another new member consulting list - now, DC-DC 's
by "joe" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Another new member consulting list - now, DC-DC 's
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: New member from Ward, Colorado
by "joe" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
On Tue, 29 May 2007 16:00:46 -0700, "Phil Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
Electro Automotive lists a Sevcon with that range ( 96 - 144, acording to
their description). I was lucky enough to find one on Ebay a couple of
years ago. it says "128/12V" on the side.
Their price list doesn't include the Sevcon - it shows a CC Power unit at
$580. I'd need TWO of them to cover my 400W minimum (600W preferred) power
requirement. Both the Sevcon and CC Power websites only show products that
operate up to 80V nominal input.
Vicor has a 450W MegaMod (paralleled VI-J00 and VI-200 units) for $437.
I just ended a thread about DC/DC converters that use 96-120V inputs. If I
find anything new I'll be sure to post. Until then I'll keep my eye out
for some 128/12V units.
-Adrian
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On Tue, 29 May 2007 16:00:46 -0700, Paul "neon" G. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Do you want a convertible in the winter? I'm not
familiar with the reality of your climate but I know that are a
questionable choice in western WA. (winter rain most days of the week
- *all* leaks *will* be found
It's nothing but winter rain here in coastal OR, too. The rain makes a
cool vibrating "thump" on the drum tight top :) I do have problems with
rain dripping onto the driver's seat when the door is open. There isn't
much of a channel on the side of the convertible top to divert accumulated
water - and my 4 year old doesn't know the meaning of the words HURRY UP
AND GET OUT!
That said, I worry more about water getting into my Zilla and DC/DC than
the convertible top leaking! I still need to put a belly pan (splash
guard) under the front half of the car.
<lots of great donor advice snipped...>
The front radiator bulkhead can be reinforced by the front battery rack. I
had to gently tap mine in with a small sledge hammer... But if it's rusted
out, the rest of the car's probably not in good shape either.
-Adrian
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--- Begin Message ---
> If you have a battery pack over 96V and under 120V
> it is difficult to find
> a DC/DC converter that will operate at the fully
> charged voltage AND still
> provide enough output when the battery pack voltage
> drops. I'm still looking for a good solution.
Try Belktronix.com. I'll grant it has been a month,
but his gear is weatherproof, and puts out WAY more
amps (60, at my 144V).
>
Converting a gen. 5 Honda Civic? My $20 video/DVD
has my '92 sedan, as well as a del Sol and hatch too!
Learn more at:
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
____
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'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
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--- Begin Message ---
Folks...
I have to agree with Bill's take on this one instead of John's as to solid
as opposed to flexible buss bars.
Have always made it a habit to never connect two heavy lead batteries
together with a rigid bar in a _customer's_ vehicle.
I always do what it takes to make any given battery interconnect flexible.
For racing? A pack that gets looked at and swapped regularly? OK. Maybe. But
for daily driver reliability I believe they need to be flexible.
Joe Sixpak is not gonna check his interconnects on a regular basis.
Yes, some of us pay extreme attention to the details. But... folks who are
not savvy can screw up fairly easily using solid interconnects.
I have jammed a lot of coroplast between a lot of batteries. They _will_
move no matter what you do.
When in doubt, make a loop. It will last longer.
HTH!
~~~~~~
Roy LeMeur
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The case is not important to me, as I will have different mounting
requirements in different vehicles. My main display requirement is that it
is readible while driving in full day light. Translation... it needs to be
large enough and bright enough. When this type of device has been discussed
in the past it has also been pointed out that cars have some challanging
temperature extremes which may adversely effect some display types. My
emeter has a very acceptable LED segment display.
damon
From: Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Starting business...
Date: Tue, 29 May 2007 20:58:31 -0500
I can do a great one right now, better than e-meter for sure. At least I
can do the electronics. The case is actually kind of tricky. Making
somethat that mounts to an aluminum front panel is easy enough. How big a
display do you want? I prefer doing graphical LCDs myself.
Danny
damon henry wrote:
I have a suggestion. Build me an affordable amp hour counter. That is the
only function an e-meter gives me that I can't easily get elsewhere, and
the e-meters are just too darn fragile. Even experienced EV'rs who have
been using them for years destroy one every once in a while. I've
purchased two. The first was DOA, the second has an annoying habit of
constantly adding .6 ahrs to my pack no matter what I try.
Getting an appropriate volt meter and ammeter are simple as they come off
the shelf in all different shapes and sizes, but since I am using NiCads I
really need an amp hour counter, and the only option besides an emeter
that I am aware of are the expensive Brusa ones that Victor sales. How
hard can it be to read the voltage off my shunt and and keep track of what
is happening?
thanks
damon
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Starting business...
Date: Tue, 29 May 2007 09:03:39 -0400
Hey all, this is a bit premature, but I thought I would throw this out
there for some feedback.
I am starting a business producing electronic stuff for EVs. My intention
is to help the EV world and build myself a retirement business. It will
certainly take some time because I still have a "day job", but, this is
what I have been doing at my "day job" since the 80's.
I have named it Hot Juice Electric and have started a "beginners"
website. http://www.hotjuiceelectric.com.
Comments, suggestions, advice???
Ken
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Reset E mail, no more "Truncated" shit??
Bob
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--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Barkley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 3:55 PM
Subject: Re: Copper tubing & Silver Plating for bussbars ?
I soldered mine, at least cables that are going to the
controller, motor, but still haven't done away with
the lead terminal clamps at the batteries. Looking for
a good source of braided cable.
Hi Marty;
Yeah! Me, too. I solder the 2 ought cables into #3 ought terminals, I
like the loose fit as it is easier to get all the cut frizzies into the
terminal by being oversize a bit. I heat everything up with an Oxy Actelene
outfit, Dip cable end in hot flux and fill in with solder or what PASSES for
solder, nowadaze, Ya get the hang of it in a bit. Too much heat and the damn
solder wicks up the cable. Practice makes perfect. Terminals can be had from
Del City in Milwaukee for 1.65 each. I bought a bag full of them, only took
a few daze for shipping.This is assuming you can get or HAVE automotive type
posts, the kind batteries have come with since Christ was a kid? Those
THINGS that they come up with now! Just bought a bunchj of used batteries
and I will have to cast on new posts. Pain in the ass, but those shallow
terminals with the SS bolt cast inside are functionally USELESS!Braided
cable? Hit up welding suppluy places, 2# is common, they may have scraps
around? I had been lucky, found a big BOX of the stuff at a tag sale, lady
was glad to take my 10 bux to getitouttahere! Found a coil in the metal
dumpster at the dump. Sonebody had actuall thrown it away! Boy! Nowadaze
like throwing away GOLD! Priced any BX cable at Blows or Home Despot
lately?You are in for a shock, pun intended! Picked a old battery load
tester out of the dumpster, today. Has heavy cable and clamps. Sez that it
will do a few hundred amps, not like those wimpy Harbor Fright ones!Other
treasures was a Toro Snowthrower WITHOUT the gas engine, but there is only
so much ya can carry in a Prius!Sigh!
Seeya at PODC?
Bob
--- Marty Hewes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Does anybody solder the terminals on the end of
their cables, or are they
all just crimped?
Marty
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11:40 AM
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Other things concering interconnect longevity.
When I fabricate a cable for a customer's vehicle, (generally 2/0) I am
thinking of a twenty-year service life as I am assembling the cable.
You try and use the best materials available, bring up bright metal, and
hope for the best.
Generally, the assembly includes- some heavily tinned cable ends from
Quickcable, some fine-stranded cable crimped correctly, and some heavy-duty
shrinkwrap to keep the time bandits out.
Got Shelf-life?
~~~~~~
Roy LeMeur
_________________________________________________________________
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On Tue, 29 May 2007 20:35:33 -0700, Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
I sure like my Belktronix so far!
The Belktronix specs look good to me, but the manual says it needs to be
hooked up to the traction pack permanently OR ELSE it requires "soft
start" (precharge) circuitry.
In my case I'd need precharge circuitry. ALL connections to my traction
pack are made after a circuit breaker. The circuit breaker has a manual
pull from the cabin that gets used whenever I do battery maintenance. It
would be a real pain (and I'd probably forget) to precharge the DC/DC
every time the breaker needed to be turned back on.
Maybe a secondary breaker/disconnect?
Time to e-mail belktronix...
-Adrian
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey all,
Here is a quick update on the Dinner locations for Saturday and
Sunday with thanks to Tracy Wolfe and Joe Lado.
SATURDAY DINNER - approx. 6:30 pm
Richardson's Restaurant
710 Dual Hwy, Hagerstown, MD
301-733-3660
Buffet for $11.99 and we have a back room reserved
SUNDAY DINNER - approx. 6:30 pm
Ledo Pizza (our usual haunt after the Power of DC)
1423 Dual Hwy, Hagerstown, MD
301-766-4900
Glad to hear all the cool updates with everyone's vehicles for the
race. Can't wait to see them and the latest upgrades! Shawn's
machines are an awesome sight and can tear down the track. And Darin
now has wheelie bars on his upgraded 96 volt Pirahna motorcycle.
Dave Erb called today and said Bob Salem's outrageous Rabbit Truck
will be at the race. Dave is bringing it down on Friday. The tire
squealing you hear in the Flash Animation of the Power of DC website
is actually from Bob's truck when he drag raced it at the Power of DC
in 2002.
Dave also wanted to let folks know he has space at his room at the
Hampton Inn for Friday and Saturday nights if someone needs a room.
Just let me know and I will forward Dave's phone number.
I also heard from Dave Cover and he is putting the finishing touches
on his Porsche 944 and getting it registered.
Thanks to John Wayland for sending the Blue Spyder box and some White
Zombie T-shirts. Those arrived today. It's a relief we now have
distribution panel coverage for both Saturday and Sunday. Darin built
a new panel we will use on the drag strip on Sunday.
And I can't wait to see the incredible motor Jim Husted has built. It
should be arriving within the next couple days. Can't wait to try it
in my new scooter. The electric blue Jim painted matches the blue of
my scooter perfectly . . . just kidding Jim :-) I will keep it safe
and secure. Brian Hall also donated a motor. An Etek which will also
be given away.
Bob Rice has confirmed he will be there as well. So things are really
shaping up.
Larry Jarboe and the NEDRA record breaking team from Great Mills High
School is bringing a new 144 volt MR2 conversion and of course West
Virginia University with their Formula 1 racer and the Aztec Solar
racer from EVA/DC.
Chip Gribben
http://www.powerofdc.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey Shawn!
Thanks for the update. Cool, new Lemcos for OJ and V28 batteries for
AGNus. Wow!! And the Electropolitan should be bulletproof with that
new driveshaft. Good luck on your trip!
Chip
On May 29, 2007, at 11:35 PM, Electric Vehicle Discussion List wrote:
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: May 29, 2007 9:34:23 PM EDT
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Lawless vehicles ready for PODC- (Almost)
Chip and all,
All of us at Lawless Industries and OJ racing are looking forward
to this Sunday at PODC in Hagerstown.
Vehicle status is as follows:
OJ-2:
New batteries arrived today and should be in and wired by tomorrow
night.
2 Zillas are in and wired.
8 New experimental LMC brush gears should be here tomorrow.
Chassis is ready except for a big hole in the rear cover where a
lithium battery spent the night in Florida a few months ago.
Class: DR-B 240 volts
Electropolitan:
Machining apart and welding a new thicker walled driveshaft
together tomorrow.
Stealing batteries back from AGNS that were borrowed.
Class: ?
AGNS:
Conservatism tells me to let her be and run 144 volts of Hawkers in
MD.
That seams a little boring so I "borrowed" some battery clips from
a friend of mine and I think we are going to feed AGNS a dose of 36
V28 batteries.
For once the 28 volt numbers multiply out right and 6 x 6 x 28
should put us in the MT- 168 volt class.
The real reason for LI is that Denis has been crying to do burnouts
with the big boys.
Hope to do some nice ones at PODC!!!
All this is great and we were planning on testing OJ tomorrow night
at Thompson and cycle the bats a few times until I found out today
that I'm headed to Hong Kong tomorrow. I'm going to miss the
festivities at PODC on Saturday but barring any Castaway type event
I will be there on Sunday vehicles in tow. Should be interesting,
3 vehicles with no prior testing in their current configuration. I
can't promise what will happen but my bet is it will be a good time!
See you There,
Shawn
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
If the batteries have been left uncharged for 2 years
I wouldn't keep much hope to get more than a couple of
blocks worth of range out of the pack, especially if
they are the original 2002 batteries. The original
Trojan batteries are good for max 3 years if that if
they are treated well.
What you can do is get the batteries to hold enough of
a charge to make sure the car works properly then put
a new pack in it when everything else is confirmed
good.
First, if you haven't make sure there is enough water
in the batteries to cover the plates then hit them
individually with your charger. Letting them simmer at
~15.5 volts each for a while might regain some
capacity, but likely it won't be much. After a while
they will just be burning off water.
I pulled a GEM out of a garage that was left to sit
for probably 2 years at least, and the maximum range I
could coax out of the batteries was about 4 blocks and
even that was at about 12mph max (several totally dead
cells), but that did let me know the car was in decent
working shape. A few things I would recommend, first
replace the brake fluid. No one ever services the
brake fluid in these cars, it absorbs water and
corrodes parts over time. On top of that the system
doesn't even have that great of a seal so it's likely
there's plenty of absorbed water in there, and be
great full if the brake system is in good shape, the
one I pulled out of a garage has needed two wheel
cylinders thus far.
The other consideration, the original Zivan charger
didn't charge aggressively enough from the factory,
and there was also a known issue with the input fuse
holder which tends to melt. The simple fix for both of
these is to send the charger to the US distributor
Elcon (www.zivanusa.com), and they will reprogram it.
There is even a new "chip" they can install which will
automatically restart the charger every week so you
can store the car without worrying too much about it.
As for the fuse holder, they can do the fix for that
as well. If you are confident in your soldering skills
the fix is to de-solder the plastic fuse holder and
solder in a permanent fuse. You can also ignore the
fuse holder too, but there's a really good chance at
some point you will have this problem happen (I did at
least). The reprogram and fuse holder fix will run you
about $100, but it will pay for itself with longer
battery life. Of the ones I've had reprogrammed it
seems we're getting about an extra year of life out of
the battery packs!
One other consideration, if you'd like to put gel
batteries in the car they can reprogram the charger
for gel batteries as well, although a proper gel pack
itself (which is the Deka 8G31) will run you in the
neighborhood of $1200 alone!
One last thing, right now GEM is running an upgrade
special for $2007 plus labor they will give you all
the latest electronics and a pack of gel batteries.
This may sound like a lot, but it's really a good deal
because they give you a new DeltaQ charger, new
controller if necessary and the new sealed DC/DC
converter (This part is part of a recall now). So
depending on which route you want to go about to
revive this car you might want to consider this. Just
call GEM and ask about it, you will probably also want
to get the car registered in your name in their system
too while your at it.
If you need a good GEM car resource check out
www.evtrader.com, I frequent there.
Later,
Rick
92 Saturn SC conversion
AZ Alt Fuel Plates "ZEROGAS"
Glendale, AZ
> > From: "EV List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> Subject: Charging batteries in parallel (Rescue GEM)
> Date: Tue, 29 May 2007 12:08:46 -0400
>
> I'm trying to rescue a 2002 GEM. The poor thing had
> been left uncharged for 2 years (per
> registration info) without a charge. (The genius
> operator thought the GEM was struck by
> lightening when it wouldn't charge, but the problem
> was only that the building ground fault
> protection had tripped!) That and they didn't tell
> me about it.
>
> When I tested it, the 72V pack was at a whopping 3V
> (across all 6 batteries)! However, the
> batteries seem OK so far. I'd been charging the
> batteries like a human battery balancer by
> charging the lowest battery each time I visited.
> Since I don't visit often, I finally grabbed
> the 4 batteries from under the back seat and brought
> them home. With the 4 batteries out, I've
> been able to charge them in parallel. (Remember
> they were all at about the same low voltage.)
>
> More details:
> I've been looking at the lead acid charging charts
> in the battery FAQ
> (http://www.batteryfaq.org/; Section 9, Sb/Sb). I'm
> using a 12V charger with only a 10 Amp
> maximum charging output. I determined that the
> total Ah in each phase (Bulk, Absorption) should
> be the same whether I'm pushing 10 Amps into each
> battery separately or the 4 batteries in
> parallel. Unfortunately the chart is created for a
> 20 Amp charger and I'm only using 10 Amps
> across all 4 batteries (or 2.5 Amps each). Note:
> The batteries are 130 Ah batteries and the
> chart is for a typical 50 Ah battery.
>
> Finally my questions:
> Q1) Even though the total Ah in (under the curve)
> should be the same (correct me if I'm wrong),
> it looks as if I'll never have a true Bulk or
> Absorption phase as I'm sitting on the charger
> output limit (rather than the Bulk battery current
> limit, followed by the Absorption 14.5V
> limit) during the entire time I'm driving to a
> temperature corrected 14.5 volts. Is this
> correct?
>
> Q2) Because they are being charged in parallel, the
> 4 batteries seem to be getting balanced in
> the process. (The lowest battery has the greater
> potential driven through it.) Is this
> correct?
>
> Q3a) Being that the batteries have been SO
> discharged for so long, should I do an equalization
> charge on them? (In other words should I charge
> them to more than a temperature compensated
> 14.5 volts?
>
> Q3b) If so, to what voltage? Plus 5 to 10 %?
> Recomendations?
>
> Q4) Being that the batteries have been SO discharged
> (I was reading an average 1/2 volt per
> battery initially), does it make sense that I should
> have to put in 900 to 1200 Ah into this 4 x
> 130 Ah pack to bring it back?
>
> Some reassurances:
> R1) Yes, I do know about the other 2 batteries in
> the car.
>
> R2) I have connected my charger to the parallel pack
> correctly. (I.e. one lead on the first
> battery and the other lead on the last battery.) I
> learned this method on the EVList. Thanks.
>
> R3) I will balance the SOC (or at least nearly so)
> of the last 2 batteries to the rest of the
> pack before I let them charge with the on-board
> charger.
>
> Thanks for any and all help
> Donald
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Bob-
I thought he only sold complete systems. Did you buy your DC-DC from him by
itself? What did it cost?
Thanks
Phil Marino
From: Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Another new member consulting list - now, DC-DC 's
Date: Tue, 29 May 2007 16:41:17 -0700 (PDT)
I sure like my Belktronix so far!
--- Phil Marino <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Adrian -
>
> Electro Automotive lists a Sevcon with that range (
> 96 - 144, acording to
> their description). I was lucky enough to find one
> on Ebay a couple of
> years ago. it says "128/12V" on the side.
>
> Is Electro Auto out of stock on these?
>
> Or, are you looking for one used? ( that probably
> would be hard to find)
>
> Phil Marino
>
>
> >From: "Adrian DeLeon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> >To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> >Subject: Re: Another new member consulting list on
> a first time project
> >Date: Tue, 29 May 2007 11:11:21 -0700
> >
>
> >
> >If you have a battery pack over 96V and under 120V
> it is difficult to find
> >a DC/DC converter that will operate at the fully
> charged voltage AND still
> >provide enough output when the battery pack voltage
> drops. The IOTAs won't
> >work, the Zivan NG1 is only ok, Sevcons in that
> range are impossible to
> >find. I'm still looking for a good solution.
> >
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
> Like the way Microsoft Office Outlook works? Youll
> love Windows Live
> Hotmail.
>
http://imagine-windowslive.com/hotmail/?locale=en-us&ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_mini_outlook_0507
>
>
Converting a gen. 5 Honda Civic? My $20 video/DVD
has my '92 sedan, as well as a del Sol and hatch too!
Learn more at:
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering
wheel? Are you saving any gas for your kids?
____________________________________________________________________________________Shape
Yahoo! in your own image. Join our Network Research Panel today!
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--- Begin Message ---
You can buy single products as well. It was $395.
--- Phil Marino <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Bob-
>
> I thought he only sold complete systems. Did you
> buy your DC-DC from him by
> itself? What did it cost?
>
> Thanks
>
> Phil Marino
>
>
> >From: Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> >To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> >Subject: Re: Another new member consulting list -
> now, DC-DC 's
> >Date: Tue, 29 May 2007 16:41:17 -0700 (PDT)
> >
> >I sure like my Belktronix so far!
> >
> >--- Phil Marino <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > > Adrian -
> > >
> > > Electro Automotive lists a Sevcon with that
> range (
> > > 96 - 144, acording to
> > > their description). I was lucky enough to find
> one
> > > on Ebay a couple of
> > > years ago. it says "128/12V" on the side.
> > >
> > > Is Electro Auto out of stock on these?
> > >
> > > Or, are you looking for one used? ( that
> probably
> > > would be hard to find)
> > >
> > > Phil Marino
> > >
> > >
> > > >From: "Adrian DeLeon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > >Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> > > >To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> > > >Subject: Re: Another new member consulting list
> on
> > > a first time project
> > > >Date: Tue, 29 May 2007 11:11:21 -0700
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > >If you have a battery pack over 96V and under
> 120V
> > > it is difficult to find
> > > >a DC/DC converter that will operate at the
> fully
> > > charged voltage AND still
> > > >provide enough output when the battery pack
> voltage
> > > drops. The IOTAs won't
> > > >work, the Zivan NG1 is only ok, Sevcons in that
> > > range are impossible to
> > > >find. I'm still looking for a good solution.
> > > >
> > >
> > >
>
>_________________________________________________________________
> > > Like the way Microsoft Office Outlook works?
> Youll
> > > love Windows Live
> > > Hotmail.
> > >
>
>http://imagine-windowslive.com/hotmail/?locale=en-us&ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_mini_outlook_0507
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >Converting a gen. 5 Honda Civic? My $20 video/DVD
> >has my '92 sedan, as well as a del Sol and hatch
> too!
> >Learn more at:
> >www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
> > ____
> > __/__|__\ __
> > =D-------/ - - \
> > 'O'-----'O'-'
> >Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came
> out of the steering
> >wheel? Are you saving any gas for your kids?
> >
> >
> >
>
>____________________________________________________________________________________Shape
>
> >Yahoo! in your own image. Join our Network
> Research Panel today!
>
>http://surveylink.yahoo.com/gmrs/yahoo_panel_invite.asp?a=7
> >
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
> More photos, more messages, more storageget 2GB
> with Windows Live Hotmail.
>
http://imagine-windowslive.com/hotmail/?locale=en-us&ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_mini_2G_0507
>
>
Converting a gen. 5 Honda Civic? My $20 video/DVD
has my '92 sedan, as well as a del Sol and hatch too!
Learn more at:
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
____________________________________________________________________________________Looking
for a deal? Find great prices on flights and hotels with Yahoo! FareChase.
http://farechase.yahoo.com/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I guess I'm missing something, b/c I'm after the
breaker, but before the main contactor, and only did
the pre-charge the first time I hooked up. Obviously,
I do batt. maintenance too.
let me know whtat you find out.
peace,
--- Adrian DeLeon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> On Tue, 29 May 2007 20:35:33 -0700, Bob Bath
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
>
> > I sure like my Belktronix so far!
>
> The Belktronix specs look good to me, but the manual
> says it needs to be
> hooked up to the traction pack permanently OR ELSE
> it requires "soft
> start" (precharge) circuitry.
>
> In my case I'd need precharge circuitry. ALL
> connections to my traction
> pack are made after a circuit breaker. The circuit
> breaker has a manual
> pull from the cabin that gets used whenever I do
> battery maintenance. It
> would be a real pain (and I'd probably forget) to
> precharge the DC/DC
> every time the breaker needed to be turned back on.
>
> Maybe a secondary breaker/disconnect?
>
> Time to e-mail belktronix...
>
> -Adrian
>
>
Converting a gen. 5 Honda Civic? My $20 video/DVD
has my '92 sedan, as well as a del Sol and hatch too!
Learn more at:
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
____________________________________________________________________________________Looking
for a deal? Find great prices on flights and hotels with Yahoo! FareChase.
http://farechase.yahoo.com/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I got a DC/DC from him also, but haven't used it yet. Looks like a good,
solid unit, but is going to need some ingenuity to mount it! He supplies
mounting hardware, but it is not intuitive, and I question whether it will
work the way he thinks it will!
Joseph H. Strubhar
Web: www.gremcoinc.com
E-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2007 5:26 AM
Subject: Re: Another new member consulting list - now, DC-DC 's
Bob-
I thought he only sold complete systems. Did you buy your DC-DC from him
by itself? What did it cost?
Thanks
Phil Marino
From: Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Another new member consulting list - now, DC-DC 's
Date: Tue, 29 May 2007 16:41:17 -0700 (PDT)
I sure like my Belktronix so far!
--- Phil Marino <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Adrian -
>
> Electro Automotive lists a Sevcon with that range (
> 96 - 144, acording to
> their description). I was lucky enough to find one
> on Ebay a couple of
> years ago. it says "128/12V" on the side.
>
> Is Electro Auto out of stock on these?
>
> Or, are you looking for one used? ( that probably
> would be hard to find)
>
> Phil Marino
>
>
> >From: "Adrian DeLeon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> >To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> >Subject: Re: Another new member consulting list on
> a first time project
> >Date: Tue, 29 May 2007 11:11:21 -0700
> >
>
> >
> >If you have a battery pack over 96V and under 120V
> it is difficult to find
> >a DC/DC converter that will operate at the fully
> charged voltage AND still
> >provide enough output when the battery pack voltage
> drops. The IOTAs won't
> >work, the Zivan NG1 is only ok, Sevcons in that
> range are impossible to
> >find. I'm still looking for a good solution.
> >
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
> Like the way Microsoft Office Outlook works? You'll
> love Windows Live
> Hotmail.
>
http://imagine-windowslive.com/hotmail/?locale=en-us&ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_mini_outlook_0507
>
>
Converting a gen. 5 Honda Civic? My $20 video/DVD
has my '92 sedan, as well as a del Sol and hatch too!
Learn more at:
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering
wheel? Are you saving any gas for your kids?
____________________________________________________________________________________Shape
Yahoo! in your own image. Join our Network Research Panel today!
http://surveylink.yahoo.com/gmrs/yahoo_panel_invite.asp?a=7
_________________________________________________________________
More photos, more messages, more storage-get 2GB with Windows Live
Hotmail.
http://imagine-windowslive.com/hotmail/?locale=en-us&ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_mini_2G_0507
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
It did take me 5 mins. to figure it out.
First, face the unit's heatsink fins away from you,
vertically. (Most effective for heat dissip).
Face the slot of the bracket _toward you_.
Bring the bracket (parallel with the fins) onto the
fins.
Stick the bolts into the bracket.
Those bolts will now go into a mounting plate, say 8 x
8" or so. In other words, the hole that was sealed
with rubber for exp./contraction due to temp. changes
will _face_ the mounting bracket you fabricate.
The heatsink will face _away_ from you.
peace,
--- joe <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I got a DC/DC from him also, but haven't used it
> yet. Looks like a good,
> solid unit, but is going to need some ingenuity to
> mount it! He supplies
> mounting hardware, but it is not intuitive, and I
> question whether it will
> work the way he thinks it will!
>
> Joseph H. Strubhar
>
> Web: www.gremcoinc.com
>
> E-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Phil Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2007 5:26 AM
> Subject: Re: Another new member consulting list -
> now, DC-DC 's
>
>
> > Bob-
> >
> > I thought he only sold complete systems. Did you
> buy your DC-DC from him
> > by itself? What did it cost?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Phil Marino
> >
> >
> >>From: Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >>Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> >>To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> >>Subject: Re: Another new member consulting list -
> now, DC-DC 's
> >>Date: Tue, 29 May 2007 16:41:17 -0700 (PDT)
> >>
> >>I sure like my Belktronix so far!
> >>
> >>--- Phil Marino <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >>
> >> > Adrian -
> >> >
> >> > Electro Automotive lists a Sevcon with that
> range (
> >> > 96 - 144, acording to
> >> > their description). I was lucky enough to find
> one
> >> > on Ebay a couple of
> >> > years ago. it says "128/12V" on the side.
> >> >
> >> > Is Electro Auto out of stock on these?
> >> >
> >> > Or, are you looking for one used? ( that
> probably
> >> > would be hard to find)
> >> >
> >> > Phil Marino
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > >From: "Adrian DeLeon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >> > >Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> >> > >To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> >> > >Subject: Re: Another new member consulting
> list on
> >> > a first time project
> >> > >Date: Tue, 29 May 2007 11:11:21 -0700
> >> > >
> >> >
> >> > >
> >> > >If you have a battery pack over 96V and under
> 120V
> >> > it is difficult to find
> >> > >a DC/DC converter that will operate at the
> fully
> >> > charged voltage AND still
> >> > >provide enough output when the battery pack
> voltage
> >> > drops. The IOTAs won't
> >> > >work, the Zivan NG1 is only ok, Sevcons in
> that
> >> > range are impossible to
> >> > >find. I'm still looking for a good solution.
> >> > >
> >> >
> >> >
>
>>_________________________________________________________________
> >> > Like the way Microsoft Office Outlook works?
> You'll
> >> > love Windows Live
> >> > Hotmail.
> >> >
>
>>http://imagine-windowslive.com/hotmail/?locale=en-us&ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_mini_outlook_0507
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >>Converting a gen. 5 Honda Civic? My $20 video/DVD
> >>has my '92 sedan, as well as a del Sol and hatch
> too!
> >>Learn more at:
> >>www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
> >> ____
> >> __/__|__\ __
> >> =D-------/ - - \
> >> 'O'-----'O'-'
> >>Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe
> came out of the steering
> >>wheel? Are you saving any gas for your kids?
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________Shape
>
> >> Yahoo! in your own image. Join our Network
> Research Panel today!
> >>
>
http://surveylink.yahoo.com/gmrs/yahoo_panel_invite.asp?a=7
> >>
> >
> >
>
_________________________________________________________________
> > More photos, more messages, more storage-get 2GB
> with Windows Live
> > Hotmail.
> >
>
http://imagine-windowslive.com/hotmail/?locale=en-us&ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_mini_2G_0507
> >
> >
>
>
Converting a gen. 5 Honda Civic? My $20 video/DVD
has my '92 sedan, as well as a del Sol and hatch too!
Learn more at:
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
____________________________________________________________________________________Boardwalk
for $500? In 2007? Ha! Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's updated for today's
economy) at Yahoo! Games.
http://get.games.yahoo.com/proddesc?gamekey=monopolyherenow
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi, Zeke - welcome to the list! I also have a Courier that I want to convert
sometime. Keep me posted what you decide to put in it! I will undoubtably go
DC, I don't have many hills to climb.
Joseph H. Strubhar
Web: www.gremcoinc.com
E-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Zeke Yewdall" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 9:04 PM
Subject: New member from Ward, Colorado
Hi everyone
Just wanted to introduce myself. I am a longtime EV fan, and am working
on
my first conversion this summer. A 1974 Ford Courier pickup. I've had
the
truck for 10 years, and it was always intended to become an EV from when I
got it -- finally got some funds and a place to work on it this summer.
http://server5.theimagehosting.com/image.php?img=courier1.JPG
Its a fairly good candidate. Light curb weight (2,600 before the engine
and
ICE stuff was removed) but good weight capacity (1400lbs stock), 4 speed
manual trans, no power steering or brakes, in almost brand new shape with
no
rust (36k miles, and was stored for about 14 years in a garage).
Still deciding now on what drivetrain I want to do. Regen would be very
nice, so I'm looking at the GE separately excited motors, or maybe the AC
systems (boy are those pricey though). And probably a set of some sort of
AGM batteries. My typical use with be short errands within 10 miles of my
house, but lots of hills. Not the easiest terrain, but I hope I can make
something acceptable.
On other stuff, I just got a large (3.4kW) grid tied photovoltaic array
hooked up at my house, which is producing about 3 times as much power as I
need -- and I'm adding a wind turbine this summer too. So I figure it's
about time to get the electrical vehicle running.
Zeke
--- End Message ---
