EV Digest 6853

Topics covered in this issue include:

  1) Re: Battery Venting
        by "Michael Perry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  2) Re: Thundersky
        by "Kaido Kert" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  3) Re: Battery - Fuel Cell Hybrid Idea
        by "(-Phil-)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  4) Re: Battery - Fuel Cell Hybrid Idea
        by "(-Phil-)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  5) Re: Thundersky and calculations
        by "Richard Acuti" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  6) Re: Motor Adapter plate
        by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  7) Re: Lawless Drag Race Update Weds Night
        by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  8) Twin Motors, forklifts and drive belts?
        by "childreypa" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  9) Siamese8 rub pics up
        by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 10) Re: aluminum wire for EVs?
        by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 11) Re: aluminum wire for EVs?
        by Jeff Major <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 12) New EVDL survey
        by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 13) A red motor is on its way to me :)
        by Eduardo Kaftanski <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 14) Re: Motor Adapter plate
        by "TrotFox Greyfoot" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 15) RE: Battery - Fuel Cell Hybrid Idea
        by "Michael Wendell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 16) Re: Thundersky
        by "Kaido Kert" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 17) Re: Thundersky
        by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 18) Re: Motor Adapter plate
        by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 19) Re: Battery - Fuel Cell Hybrid Idea
        by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 20) Re: Thudersky Real World Experience
        by "Paul Compton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 21) Re: Motor Adapter plate
        by MIKE WILLMON <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 22) Re: aluminum wire for EVs?
        by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 23) RE: Power of DC, BC EV Show,  & other misc. Race Stuff
        by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
If your batts are venting that heavily, doesn't it indicate they are
charging too quickly?
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Michaela Merz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 8:47 PM
Subject: Battery Venting


> My Zivan charger insists on balancing the pack after _every_ charge. That
> causes a lot of acid spray to end up on top of the batteries. I was
> wondering, if 'Water Miser' caps or even an a 'pro-fill' watering system
> would reduce the spillage? Where does the 'Pro-Fill' system vent the gas?

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 6/7/07, damon henry <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Besides pricing, proper BMS is high on my list of priorities, and as much as
I hate to admit it, I'm waiting for other people to spend their money

The guys i mentioned ( phet.com.tw ) actually offer complete packs
with BMS ( dont know about their exact functionality ) in at least
motorcycle sizes. They also offer engineering services to design a BMS
for larger packs.
Another one who offers the same is yesa.com.cn, they too have LiFEPo4
cells. Bear in mind that constructing an EV pack from LiFEPo4s ought
to be much easier than cobalt oxide or manganese ones, due to the
inherent safety of the chemistry.

both of them offered to do a complete pack with BMS for a motorycle
app at least. The price ( likely due to huge demand ) remains high,
though.

-kert

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- This won't do any good, as it costs electrical energy in the first place to split (electrolysis) the hydrogen out. When you put it back in later, and with efficiency losses, you end up in the negative.

This is akin to attaching a generator to a motor and wiring them together. AKA "Perpetual Motion".

I had a friend that knew some guy in Oklahoma that had invented a "water generator". He went and saw it. Here's how it supposedly worked:

There was a 5kw "skid" type generator. It was started on gasoline, then used to drive a "special" secret proprietary box that split ordinary tap water into hydrogen and oxygen. This was then fed into the motor and the gas was supposedly shut off once "warmed up". (he turned a valve) Then he proceeded to hook up a 60w light bulb to the generator. Supposedly it could run this forever as long as you kept feeding it water. Apparently it couldn't "quite" run a 100w. His goal was to solicit "investors" so he could make a much bigger one. He claimed if he could get the $ to convert a 500kw generator, he'd be able to pull around 6kw of totally "free" energy which could power a small house and heat it with hot water from the generator.

This is an "over-unity" claim. Not possible with the laws of physics as we know it.

Here's a similar one:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_fuel_cell

-Phil
----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Freidberg" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2007 3:07 PM
Subject: Battery - Fuel Cell Hybrid Idea


Check out my idea:

1. Manufacture battery to *maximize* generation of
Hydrogen when cycling, instead of maximizing
recombination as SLAs do.

2. Route the Hydrogen to the fuel cell side of the
device, which then generates more power.

3. Route waste water from fuel cell back into battery.

4. Charge battery with any excess electrical output
from fuel cell (like when's there's no other
application demand on fuel cell). Of course also
charge battery from wall as needed.


Thoughts?


Mark




____________________________________________________________________________________
Got a little couch potato?
Check out fun summer activities for kids.
http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=summer+activities+for+kids&cs=bz



--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- This is called a "reversible fuel cell", and it's basically what a normal fuel cell does, but will also work in reverse.... The efficiency is horrible for all existing devices. So far, Not even on the same planet as a good old SLA.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reversible_fuel_cell

Even if you used a "normal" fuel cell, the most efficient ones ever created so far, and the most efficient electrolysis system to make the fuel, you still end up with a inefficient system, and one that's ridiculously costly (so far).

-Phil
----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Hwang" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2007 3:32 PM
Subject: Re: Battery - Fuel Cell Hybrid Idea


I've thought of some sort of rechargable fuel cell, where the O and H are stored in tanks, and when discharged, you'd get water. Charging would seperate the water into O and H again. It would all be self contained.

        - Tony

----- Original Message ----
From: Mark Freidberg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Sent: Thursday, June 7, 2007 3:07:39 PM
Subject: Battery - Fuel Cell Hybrid Idea

Check out my idea:

1. Manufacture battery to *maximize* generation of
Hydrogen when cycling, instead of maximizing
recombination as SLAs do.

2. Route the Hydrogen to the fuel cell side of the
device, which then generates more power.

3. Route waste water from fuel cell back into battery.

4. Charge battery with any excess electrical output
from fuel cell (like when's there's no other
application demand on fuel cell). Of course also
charge battery from wall as needed.


Thoughts?


Mark




____________________________________________________________________________________
Got a little couch potato?
Check out fun summer activities for kids.
http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=summer+activities+for+kids&cs=bz





--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- I'm trying to understand the information below so I can calculate what I need to build an "equivalent" Lithium pack. Also, can anyone provide any info on what the life cycle of Lithium is compared to lead? I've heard 20 years and 5 years. If I could get 10 years out of them, I'd consider it worth the expense.

Right now I'm running 8v lead batts. I'm guessing you'd buddy-up the cells in parallel until you have an individual battery of the capacity (amperage) that you want, then you would connect that in series with the next "battery" until you have a total voltage pack that meets your needs. Is this correct?

Since my car is for commuting, I'd be willing to purchase a smaller number of cells and keep my range at 40-50 miles as long as I could keep my top speed of 65-70 mph.

So, to replace a 128 volt pack that is rated at 85 min@ 75 amps, 121 min@ 65 amps, 165 20ah rate, I would need.....what? Can someone help me with the mathematical formula?

I'd like to figure out some comparisions if possible, using Thundersky, Valence and A123 cells.

Rich

From: "George Swartz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Thundersky
Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2007 13:59:27 -0700
Message-Id: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain;
        charset=iso-8859-1

Steve and Daniel,  yes the prices I was quoted are considerably less and as
follows:

LFP160AHA     $255    160ah at 3.2v   5600grams per cell
LFP200AHA     $320    200ah at 3.2v   7600grams per cell\
LFP400AHA     $640    400ah at 3.2v   13.6kg

40 cells of the LFP400 would weigh approx 1200lb and would provide 144 mile
range and cost about $25,600.  Prices are not bad if you are looking at
powering a small bike.

_________________________________________________________________
PC Magazine’s 2007 editors’ choice for best Web mail—award-winning Windows Live Hotmail. http://imagine-windowslive.com/hotmail/?locale=en-us&ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_mini_pcmag_0507
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---

I paid to ship my transmission, but, I lightened it by removing everything but the input shaft. That made it affordable to ship and easy to carry around.

Ken



-----Original Message-----
From: Phil Marino <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Sent: Thu, 7 Jun 2007 3:10 pm
Subject: Re: Motor Adapter plate


Snip... 
Have they changed their policy? I thought that you had to buy a complete kit from them ( $5K and up) before they will pay to ship your transmission. At least, that is what it says on their web site. 
 
That's what dissuaded me ( a couple of years ago) from having them make an adapter for me. I already had a motor and controller so I didn't need a kit, and they didn't have the pattern for an Echo. 
 
Phil Marino 

________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.
=0

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---

Great Googley!

Sheared hub bolts??!! I don't think I have ever seen that happen! Need some grade 8 or more lugs or both?

Great news Shawn! Keep it coming!

Ken


-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Sent: Thu, 7 Jun 2007 12:36 pm
Subject: Lawless Drag Race Update Weds Night


Snip... When OJ finally hooked up the immense torque had actually
sheared the hub bolts. We found the left wheel and tire flopping around on the axle. This was what had made the sparks. All 8 motors were cool to the touch like they hadn't even been run. The inherent nature of the PM motor kept it from over revving when the hub came loose and it was undamaged. The tandem wheel setup supported the loose wheel and let Eric finish the run even though he coasted most of the second 1/8th. All that happened in 11.41 seconds.  When he finally hooked up Eric managed to get to 106 MPH in the 1/8th before the wheel hub came loose and coasted through the 1/4 at 111 MPH.  We loaded up and headed home considering the night a beautiful failure. OJ showed unbelievable torque, the crowd loved it, and dispite the problems at the end we were gigling like little girls. This little car, when dialed in, is going to be in the single digits. The topper to the evening was when the announcer (who had never seen OJ before) came on after our second run and said, " The electric dragster smokes the tires at the line and still runs an 11.41. They told me if i stayed at this job long enough I would see everything. Now I believe I have". 
 
Look out Friday night!!! 
________________________________________________________________________ 

AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com. 
 


________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.
=0

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
 
Hey everyone,
 
After a good beginning of summer and a couple weeks into my first job Im fnally 
at a starting place for my convertion. Here is what i got... A 77 datsun 280z. 
It has a 4 speed thats probably the same as other datsun transmissions I see in 
some 1200 conversions. I found a forklift. Its a 3 wheel (yale I think) 3000 
lbs. It has 2 decent sized drive motors. One for the left and one for the 
rights side. The fella at the forklift shop was gonna scrap the lift so instead 
he will just give me the motors. They appear to be in good condition, he said 
there was a hydraulic problem not electrical. im thinkign about trying tho buy 
the whole lift from him. Offer him salvage value that way I can get the 
controller (only 36v) and wires and be sure of the wiring arrangement. Then I 
want to use both motors, take advantage of the series/ parrallel switching, for 
a quick little car. Now for the questions...
 
1. Is buying the forklift, no matter how cheap, worth it? Is there really any 
other usable parts and enough cables to we work the effort of hauling and 
transporting?
 
2. As I remember, both motors only have a drive shaft on one end. Can I have a 
machine shop weld an extention onto one motor and lathe it down. So I can 
couple the second motor behind it. Will it be strong enough? Can I press in a 
new shaft? Is it possible or worth it?
 
3. Can I have both motors mounted side by side connected with a timing belt 
arangement similar to a motorcycle drive belt and how long do you think that 
would last?
 
4. Is the 36v controller any good? Can I use this at low speeds and starts and 
then cut it out with a contactor and do the rest of my speed control with 
contactors arangng the batteries in series/ parrallel?
 
Sorry this is so many questions. They all just seem to come up at the same 
time. 
Thanks, Paul
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
*         ---REMAINDER OF MESSAGE TRUNCATED---            *
*     This post contains a forbidden message format       *
*  (such as an attached file, a v-card, HTML formatting)  *
*       Lists at  sjsu.edu only accept PLAIN TEXT         *
* If your postings display this message your mail program *
* is not set to send PLAIN TEXT ONLY and needs adjusting  *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

------_=_NextPart_001_01C7A9C9.431341AE"
Subject: Twin Motors, forklifts and drive belts?
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2007 08:33:48 -0400
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
X-MS-Has-Attach: 
X-MS-TNEF-Correlator: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Thread-Topic: Twin Motors, forklifts and drive belts?
thread-index: AcepVIjbTjCAdjLESEmImaN7tUAE4gAcaKEE
References: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "childreypa--
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2007 07:11:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Siamese8 rub pics up
To: EVDL <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Hey all

I posted some pics so you all could see what I'm
talking about.  Now you tell me (being you guys are
the motor experts 8^o) what you think can cause an
armature to rub on just half the shoes?  Now compare
that area to where the rear half is mounted at it's
farthest point, right where the rubbing begins.

It looks like my EVDL messages are blocked up again so
I won't be able to reply to this or any for that
matter until they start flowing again 8^(

Anyway just thought some of you might want to see what
I'm talking about and why I've been saying the motors
been wagging it's butt 8^o

http://www.hitorqueelectric.com
Cya
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric


       
____________________________________________________________________________________
Got a little couch potato? 
Check out fun summer activities for kids.
http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=summer+activities+for+kids&cs=bz
 
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2007 09:43:34 -0500
From: Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: aluminum wire for EVs?
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

mike golub wrote:
> I was just wondering if you could use aluminum wire
> for your EV.

Yes. Aluminum is slightly less conductive, but a lot lighter. You need 
about one size larger to get the same overall resistance as you would 
for copper wire.

There are some drawbacks though that make it less popular.

- It is less flexible. If used in a situation where it is subjected
   to repeated bending and flexing, aluminum will work-harden, then
   crack, and finally break.

- It forms a thick strong non-conducting oxide layer, making it
   hard to form good connections with only pressure. Aluminum
   connections use extremely high pressure (enough to cold-weld
   the metals together) and/or some kind of grease to keep air
   from getting at the surface to prevent this oxide layer from
   forming.

- It has a large coefficient of expansion with temperature. This
   complicates forming bolted or screwed connections. If you try to
   screw down an aluminum wire with a steel screw, when it gets hot
   the aluminum expands and cold-flows to relieve the pressure.
   When it cools off later, the aluminum shrinks and now you have
   a loose connection. You get more heating on the next cycle, more
   shrinking when it cools, and pretty soon you have a bad connection.

- Aluminum burns. If a bad connection starts an arc, it can set the
   aluminum on fire!

- Aluminum corrodes easily, especially if there is an electrolyte
   present (battery acid, road salt, etc.) or when there are leakage
   currents. Battery-to-battery connections for flooded cells would
   be a terrible application for aluminum.

> And does the stuff come in small strands?

Yes, there is stranded aluminum wire. But not the very fine strands you 
find with copper, because you don't want to use aluminum where it will 
flex a lot.

There are ways to use aluminum in your EV.

You can use solid aluminum buss bars. Plate them with some other metal, 
like copper or tin, to avoid the connection problems. Use spring washers 
on the bolted connections to maintain contact pressure despite expansion 
and contraction with temperature. Use a grease like Noalox to keep air out.

Or, you can use stranded aluminum wire, with special screw or crimp 
terminals designed for aluminum. They produce enough contact pressure to 
cold weld the terminal and wire together. The terminals are now normal 
plated metal that you can attach normally.
-- 
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in    --    Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2007 09:07:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Major <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: aluminum wire for EVs?
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


Hi Mike,

Yes, you can use aluminum.  Even with the larger cross
section to equal copper resistance, it is still
lighter.  Problem is with termination.  They do make
Al lugs and special inserts for Al into copper lugs,
but are expensive and hard to work with.  Also the
flexibility of the Al cable is poor.  It is stranded,
but not very finely.  I think oxidation is a problem
with fine strands.  Have never seen any with strands
smaller than about 10 gauge.

I have tested some Al in a vehicle and in the lab. 
Seems to function well.  It's just a bitch to work
with.  Once you strip off the insulation, they say it
oxidizes immediately.  So you put this deox grease on
it.  Then the Al lugs come with plastic plugs and are
about twice the size of a Cu equiv.  I'd also have
some concern about long term durability.  Like
vibration causing fatigue.

Jeff

--- mike golub <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> I was just wondering if you could use aluminum wire
> for your EV.
> 
> It has the benefit of being lighter, but not sure if
> the added resistance would hurt the efficiency, and
> then you probably need larger size cable...
> 
> And does the stuff come in small strands?
> 
> Thanks
> Michael G.
> Fairbanks
> 
> 
>        
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
> Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! -
> their life, your story. Play Sims Stories at Yahoo!
> Games.
> http://sims.yahoo.com/  
> 
> 



       
____________________________________________________________________________________
Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone who knows. 
Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.
http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545469
From: "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2007 13:00:58 -0400
MIME-Version: 1.0
Subject: New EVDL survey
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
Content-description: Mail message body

Mailman has some options which we can configure.  I'd like your opinions on 
some of them.  Please take a few minutes to fill out a survey.  It's 
entirely  anonymous.  There are only 5 questions.

http://www.surveymonkey.com/s.aspx?sm=8Lxd5SPKFyBIHEjW7ZPKlg_3d_3d

If it complains that the survey has reached its maximum number of responses, 
please use the following link instead :

http://www.surveymonkey.com/s.aspx?sm=Ro8WTM5CB0Gmrz40wq0qLg_3d_3d


David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Administrator

= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation,
or switch to digest mode?  See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = 
Note: mail sent to "evpost" or "etpost" addresses will not reach me.  
To send a private message, please obtain my email address from
the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ .
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2007 13:21:34 -0400
From: Eduardo Kaftanski <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: A red motor is on its way to me :)
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Disposition: inline


Another EV gets an inch closer...

Jim shipped my new motor yesterday, just in time for my 36th birthday :)

Its still unnamed, I was hoping Jim would do that. It's supposed to be
simmilar to Damon's swiss cheese motor, although I am just a newbie and
this is my first ever EV. Its going into a 1979 Citroen GS and will be
powered first by 48volts of Trojans and will then be upgraded to 72 or 96v.

Pictures are here: http://www.nn.cl/Autos/EV/Motor/

Its coming ground shipped to Los Angeles and then via air cargo to santiago.

Not a cheap way to get a motor, but not much more than buying a simmilar
motor in Chile, and its built by Jim so I now feel like Chile's Wayland :)

I rented space in a local shop and will start dissasembling my Citroen GS
next week. I sense a landslide coming my way....


-- 
Eduardo K.            | 
http://www.carfun.cl  | I'm white and nerdy
http://ev.nn.cl       |               Weird Al
                      |
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2007 14:17:37 -0400
From: "TrotFox Greyfoot" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Motor Adapter plate
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

The small block bolt pattern should be the same as a 4.3 V6 AKA 4300
Vortec.  That motor is essentially a SBC with two cylinders lopped
off.  Stay away from the FWD 3800s though as they are based on an old
(Buick? BOP?) bolt pattern that isn't compatible.

These are the things one learns when researching engine swaps for a
Fiero.  } ; ]

Trot, the trivial, fox...  (no, I'm not going to electrify my Formula!)

On 6/7/07, Marty Hewes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Interesting.  I Emailed Electro Automotive and asked them if they could make
> an Advance 9" look like a Chevy small block, so I could bolt up either a
> Chevy automatic trans or a Chevy manual trans.  It's probably the same thing
> as one of the 90 degree V6's they list on their page.  Here's the response:
>
> "Sorry, we don't do any adaptors for automatics."
>
> I just love a quick blow off.  Note that this would be the same for either
> manual or auto, it just needs to look like a Chevy.  Can this be so unusual?
>
> Marty


-- 
|  /\_/\       TrotFox         \ Always remember,
| ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a
|  >\_/<       [EMAIL PROTECTED]       \ third alternative."
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "Michael Wendell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Subject: RE: Battery - Fuel Cell Hybrid Idea
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2007 14:07:01 -0400
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain;
        charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

mark said:
> 1. Manufacture battery to *maximize* generation of Hydrogen
> when cycling, instead of maximizing recombination as SLAs do.
>
> 2. Route the Hydrogen to the fuel cell side of the device,
> which then generates more power.
>
> 3. Route waste water from fuel cell back into battery.
>
> 4. Charge battery with any excess electrical output from fuel
> cell (like when's there's no other application demand on fuel
> cell). Of course also charge battery from wall as needed.

tony said:
> I've thought of some sort of rechargable fuel cell, where
> the O and H are stored in tanks, and when discharged,
> you'd get water. Charging would seperate the water into O
> and H again. It would all be self contained.

the biggest problem with hydrogen fuel cells, as far as ive heard, is that
there's simply no current technology that can store enough hydrogen in a
vehicle to get decent range. i have no idea if this is true since BMW seems
pretty happy delivering hydrogen-powered (although not fuel cell) seven
series cars in decent test quantities.

mark's idea seems fantastic if it can generate enough power to offset the
added weight.

m.
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2007 21:36:40 +0300
From: "Kaido Kert" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Thundersky
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

On 6/8/07, Ian Hooper <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Interesting, haven't heard of PHET, I might have to get in touch with
> them. So far TS are the only (affordable) manufacturer I've come
> across who'll rate their LFPs up to <= 10C discharge. Liteway.cn is
> another one who seem pretty good, but only rate to 3C.

See my other post further down the thread. Yesa is also selling LFPs
rated for 5-10C discharge. See
http://yesa.com.cn/info/content.asp?infoid=503

If you read chinese fluently, im sure you can find plenty of others.

-kert
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2007 13:50:05 -0500
From: Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Thundersky
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I fear that by the time you're seeing the lifespan benefit of spending 
all that $ on lithium instead of getting lead, the lithiums readily 
available on the market at that time would cost only a fraction of this 
and perform better to boot.

The principle of "slack factor" was proposed some years ago in the 
context of a computing task.  Say you have to have a mass computing 
capability in place, or complete a mass computing task, and that 
solution needs to be in place in 2 years.  It might cost $20k to buy the 
cutting edge machines now.  If you procrastinate, you might be able to 
buy your machines 3 months ahead of the deadline and only pay $5k and 
still get the job done on time.  In fact if it's a huge fixed computing 
task you need to solve, it might take 6 months with today's machines but 
only 3 months with those available near the deadline.

One could wonder if the principle won't mean that you spend $30k for a 
li-ion capacity that will last you for 7 years, but in 3 years the same 
capacity would only cost $5k anyways.  Or worse, the original $30k cells 
are obsolete and less desirable than the new $5k technology and you toss 
them anyways to get a better capacity, peak energy delivery, and faster 
recharge capacility.

One possible paradox of the slack factor could be that if technology 
continues to advance as an exponential rate, it NEVER makes sense to buy 
a long term purchase!  In a way it always makes sense to wait for the 
technology to get better before engaging in a long term purchase before 
buying- and after you've waited a year then it continues to make sense 
to wait yet another year and so on ad infinitum.  Sadly batt technology 
hasn't had the problems of exponential growth of the technology.  We 
should be so lucky.

Danny

Ian Hooper wrote:

> Plus (supposedly) you should get 4x the cycle life with LFPs compared  
> to lead.. time will tell here.
>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Motor Adapter plate
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2007 12:58:45 -0600
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain;
        charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I find that the Electro Automotive adapter that fits my Warp 9 that was 
design for a 1992 C-10 V-6 also fits a bell housing of a Chevy 1956 256 V-8, 
the 283's, the 327's, the 350's which also mates up to a 3, 4, 5, or 6 speed 
manuals in the Muncie, Borg-Warner, Saganaw, Richmond manual transmissions 
and the TH-350 and TH-400 Automatics.

For the early model Chevys uses a large flange crank where the flywheel bolt 
pattern is 3.5 inch where the the later ones uses a 3 inch pattern.  There 
are flex plates, flywheels, and automatic front pump drives that are design 
to fit either pattern.

I had Electro Automotive build be the adapter for a 1992 C-10 because my 
master mechanic said that the top half of the bell housing pattern will fit 
any Chevy engine which fits any transmission.  The bottom half barely covers 
the bottom of a 350 cu.in. bell housing, but all the bolt holes match up.

This adapter plate even has the same bolt pattern that is on my 1975 GE 11.5 
inch traction motor which has a built in end bell that fits any GM 
transmissions.

Just order the adapter for the engine that either takes the manual 
transmission, which will also fit the automatic.

If they do not make the large flange motor coupler which Is use on my GE 
motor shaft which is 1-3/8 inch diameter, just cut off the crank flange of 
crankshaft and have a taper lock bushing machine into it.  This larger 
diameter allows for the pilot shaft of a manual transmission to go throw the 
coupler and insert into the pilot bushing that is install in these motors.

Roland







----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Marty Hewes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2007 6:47 PM
Subject: Re: Motor Adapter plate


> Interesting.  I Emailed Electro Automotive and asked them if they could 
> make
> an Advance 9" look like a Chevy small block, so I could bolt up either a
> Chevy automatic trans or a Chevy manual trans.  It's probably the same 
> thing
> as one of the 90 degree V6's they list on their page.  Here's the 
> response:
>
> "Sorry, we don't do any adaptors for automatics."
>
> I just love a quick blow off.  Note that this would be the same for either
> manual or auto, it just needs to look like a Chevy.  Can this be so 
> unusual?
>
> Marty
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Eric Poulsen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2007 12:54 PM
> Subject: Re: Motor Adapter plate
>
>
> > Electro Automotive does a lot of adapter plates.  They may already have
> > the type you need, or, if you need a custom one, they will pay to ship 
> > the
> > transmission to them and back, just to add the pattern to their library,
> > as long as you end up buying the adapter from them.
> >
> > They're also active on this list.
> >
> > Adapter page:
> >
> > http://www.electroauto.com/catalog/adaptors.shtml
> >
> > Tehben Dean wrote:
> >> What is the normal/best place/way to get/make an adapter plate to mate
> >> the motor to the transmission?
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >> Tehben
> >>
> >>  -Lithium batteries are totally <accent>sweeet!</accent>... but don't
> >> think about them, its bad for your morale-
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
> 
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2007 13:30:14 -0500
From: Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Battery - Fuel Cell Hybrid Idea
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

The central problem remains that a useful volume of H2 can't readily be 
stored in a practical-sized tank.  First off you wouldn't store the O2 
because that can be had from the air at any time and you can increase 
your H2 capacity by 50% by using both for H2.  Doesn't matter that the 
electrolytic cell is on board, we still have no way to store the volume 
of hydrogen it makes when it's plugged in and "recharging".

If you could make an efficient and practical way to store a useful mass 
of H2, the world will beat a path to your door.

There's different ideas floating around, like storing the H2 in a solid 
iron hydride and by heating it at lower pressure H2 will seep out 
again.  Still has efficiency, practicality, and capacity issues.

Danny

Tony Hwang wrote:

>I've thought of some sort of rechargable fuel cell, where the O and H are 
>stored in tanks, and when discharged, you'd get water. Charging would seperate 
>the water into O and H again. It would all be self contained.
>
>         - Tony
>
>----- Original Message ----
>From: Mark Freidberg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
>Sent: Thursday, June 7, 2007 3:07:39 PM
>Subject: Battery - Fuel Cell Hybrid Idea
>
>Check out my idea: 
>
>1. Manufacture battery to *maximize* generation of
>Hydrogen when cycling, instead of maximizing
>recombination as SLAs do.
>
>2. Route the Hydrogen to the fuel cell side of the
>device, which then generates more power.
>
>3. Route waste water from fuel cell back into battery.
>
>4. Charge battery with any excess electrical output
>from fuel cell (like when's there's no other
>application demand on fuel cell). Of course also
>charge battery from wall as needed.
>
>
>Thoughts?
>
>
>Mark
>
>
>
>       
>____________________________________________________________________________________
>Got a little couch potato? 
>Check out fun summer activities for kids.
>http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=summer+activities+for+kids&cs=bz
> 
>
>
>
>  
>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "Paul Compton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Thudersky Real World Experience
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2007 19:56:10 +0100
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain;
        format=flowed;
        charset="iso-8859-1";
        reply-type=original
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Cedric Lynch uses the 100Ah Thundersky (Cobalt chemistry) cells in his 
motorcycle. He once rode 175 miles on a charge (average speed approx. 
40mph).

The first generation of 100Ah cells would only deliver 10 Amp at 0 
Centigrade and Cedric found he had to ride them as hard as possible when 
that cold to generate heat in the internal resistance or he wouldn't get 
much range. Cedric has NO insulation, or indeed battery boxes. He changed 
the cells fairly recently and found that the current generation were capable 
of delivering 100 Amp at 0 Centigrade, ten times better than before. The 
other characteristics were pretty much the same.

Paul Compton
www.evguru.co.uk
www.sciroccoev.co.uk
www.bvs.org.uk
www.morini-mania.co.uk
www.compton.vispa.com/the_named

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Peter Perkins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, June 08, 2007 5:17 AM
Subject: Thudersky Real World Experience


> It's been a while since I posted an update on the older TS 200ah cells, 
> but
> with the recent discussion on the list, here is what my real world EV
> experience over 20,000 miles tells me.
>
> 1) I bought 30x200ah TS cells in August 2003 (Nearly four years ago)
>
> 2) I use them in my pure EV van at www.solarvan.co.uk
>
> 3) Initially I used all 30 cells in a 108v DC drive setup.
>
> 4) 2 years ago I changed to a 28 cell 96v AC regen drive. (I have two 
> spare
> cells now)
>
> 5) The cells have worked absolutely fine over this time.
>
> 6) They are rugged and easy to link together (unlike Kokam), and do not
> require a complicated BMS. I use Cedric Lynch's simple cell protectors, 
> and
> a Zivan NG3 IUa charger.
>
> http://agnimotors.com/home/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=27&Item
> id=39
>
> 7) They do not burst into flame or explode at the drop of a hat, a switch
> fault a while ago meant my cell protectors became disconnected during a
> charge cycle, the zivan charger just completed it's normal cycle and
> switched itself off with no harm done. (It was adjusted initially to 
> provide
> about the right pack end voltage though)
>
> 8) They are ageing of course, and this manifests itself as higher internal
> resistance rather than reduced capacity. This means it is more difficult 
> to
> charge or discharge them quickly, as the voltage rises too high or drops 
> too
> low at high currents, and they heat up more quickly.
>
> 9) They do not like cold weather, and need to be at a minimum 20C+ to work
> effectively now. 25C-35C is better. (I keep them in a heated insulated 
> box)
>
> 10) The voltage sag under load is increasing as they age, especially at 
> low
> temp. A fully charged cell at 20C will still supply 300A+ but the voltage
> will drop from 4.2v to <2.5v under load. I try to keep to <200A max
> discharge current. When warm at 30C+ voltage sag is much less.
>
> 11) When regen is operating, partly charged cells will still accept charge
> currents of upto 100A, so long as the cell temp is at least 25C.
>
> 12) The limiting factor in their life in my vehicle will be the internal
> resistance build up to the point they cannot deliver the currents required
> without damage/overheating.  I estimate at the current resistance increase
> rate they may last another 3 years in my EV application. This gives me a
> useful life of 7 years. Range is not my limiting factor as my work commute
> is 26 miles a day total.
>
> 13) They may well still be ok as a standby power pack, or ev charge dump
> pack when EV life is over. I certainly won't be skiping them anytime soon.
>
> 14) Would I buy them again?  Yes, and I would never go back to lead again.
> Once you have been spoilt by Li-Ion range/capacity you just can't put up
> with anything less.
>
> In conclusion I would buy TS cells again tommorrow, I recommend 200ah 
> cells
> as the mimimum size for most systems, the newer TS 200ah cells are 1.5x
> heavier than the ones I bought, and I understand have lower internal
> resistance, and can deliver higher currents. Technology marches on, and I
> expect their performance will continue to improve. You could wait forever
> for the EV battery holy grail, and be dead before it arrives, I and the
> other early adopters of these TS cells took a big gamble. For me it paid 
> off
> and I have been very happy with them.  Good luck.
>
> Peter
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.11/838 - Release Date: 6/7/2007
> 2:21 PM
>
>
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.13/840 - Release Date: 08/06/2007 
> 15:15
>
> 
Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2007 11:12:36 -0800
From: MIKE WILLMON <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Motor Adapter plate
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Message-id: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-version: 1.0
Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-language: en
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
Content-disposition: inline

I what they're trying to say is that they won't build you a plate for a 
particular automatic since presumably if someone were to buy one they would 
also want help making the auto tranny work.  I haven't done it, but I won't say 
it can't be done.  Attnetion to extra details could make it happen.

With that said if they can build you a plate for a particular standard 
transmission that is in their library that happens to also fit an automatic, 
then you can buy one.  I just wouldn't expect help from them in making the 
automatic transmission work with a motor that stops when the car does.

Mike,
Anchorage, Ak

Some of my previous e-mails on this subject seem to have made it into 
never-never land of the EVDL server :-(

----- Original Message -----
From: Marty Hewes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Friday, June 8, 2007 10:13 am
Subject: Re: Motor Adapter plate
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu

> Interesting.  I Emailed Electro Automotive and asked them if they 
> could make 
> an Advance 9" look like a Chevy small block, so I could bolt up 
> either a 
> Chevy automatic trans or a Chevy manual trans.  It's probably the 
> same thing 
> as one of the 90 degree V6's they list on their page.  Here's the 
> response:
> "Sorry, we don't do any adaptors for automatics."
> 
> I just love a quick blow off.  Note that this would be the same for 
> either 
> manual or auto, it just needs to look like a Chevy.  Can this be so 
> unusual?
> Marty
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Eric Poulsen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2007 12:54 PM
> Subject: Re: Motor Adapter plate
> 
> 
> > Electro Automotive does a lot of adapter plates.  They may 
> already have 
> > the type you need, or, if you need a custom one, they will pay to 
> ship the 
> > transmission to them and back, just to add the pattern to their 
> library, 
> > as long as you end up buying the adapter from them.
> >
> > They're also active on this list.
> >
> > Adapter page:
> >
> > http://www.electroauto.com/catalog/adaptors.shtml
> >
> > Tehben Dean wrote:
> >> What is the normal/best place/way to get/make an adapter plate 
> to mate 
> >> the motor to the transmission?
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >> Tehben
> >>
> >>  -Lithium batteries are totally <accent>sweeet!... but don't 
> >> think about them, its bad for your morale-
> >>
> >>
> >
> > 
> 
> 
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Subject: Re: aluminum wire for EVs?
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2007 13:13:11 -0600
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain;
        charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Just do at test on installing a wire terminal or battery clamp onto a fine 
strand aluminum wire, if you can find it in the large size cable.  Normally 
the smallest size we use for over head line work is a soft drawn aluminum 
strands that is wound over a plate steel messenger wire.

When we crimp connectors over this type of wire, the aluminum strands are 
heavy enough, (the No. 6 AWG strands are about a No. 10 wire size), to 
prevent them from squeezing in two.  The plated steel wire provides the 
suspension strength or without, this wire will keep sagging until it breaks 
in half.

Take some small strand aluminum wire and strip off the insulation of enough 
wire to make it the same diameter as a 2/0 wire size.  Than try to crimp 
this into a connector.  You will find you will fracture this wire and it 
will break off at the connector when bended.

Roland


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "chad plantenberg" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2007 10:44 PM
Subject: Re: aluminum wire for EVs?


> one of the reasons aluminum has fallen out of disuse in the
> construction industry (aside from the larger guages) was bending
> fatigue.  someone may have some better knowledge - but in a vehicle
> with constant road vibrations - i would think that aluminum would be
> expected to have a shorter servicable life (possibly premature
> failure?).
> chad
>
> On 6/7/07, Marcin Ciosek <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > Sure, you can use aluminum but to compensate lower conductivity you need 
> > to
> > increase wire thickness. I use factor of 1.4 to for replacing copper 
> > with
> > aluminum. If you use to thin wire you will loose some of energy on heat.
> >
> > Marcin
> >
> >
>
> 
Content-class: urn:content-classes:message
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain;
        charset="us-ascii"
Subject: RE: Power of DC, BC EV Show,  & other misc. Race Stuff
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2007 12:14:59 -0700
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

John Wayland wrote: 

> Roger, say hello to everyone for me up north, and thanks for the 
> invite...the BC EVent has always been my favorite EV show 
> show, though the Gasless on Greenwood SEVA thing is way cool,
> too. Maybe we can return to Canada next year?

You bet.

I knew the odds were slim of you making it up with an EV, especially on
such short notice, but thought just maybe you could be enticed into a
road trip with the Insight ;^>

These days it is hard to turn around without tripping over a Prius, but
Insights are a rare sight...

We'll keep our fingers crossed for next year, as the venue this year
(like last) is smaller than in the past (though a nice beachside
location) but next year we've got a larger venue planned and so things
should be quite interesting.

Cheers,

Roger.

--- End Message ---

Reply via email to