EV Digest 6868
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) RE: Twin Motors, forklifts and drive belts?
by "Alan Brinkman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: full size truck conversion
by Dan Frederiksen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Two
by "Phelps" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Non EV Rewind info
by "Mark Fisher" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Tesla roadster motor philsophy
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) RE: full size truck conversion
by "Dewey, Jody R ATC COMNAVAIRLANT, N422G5G" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Chevy motor adapters
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Doers vs talkers, was Otmar is getting rich?
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
9) Re: AC/DC thing
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Dueling fillups
by Marc Geller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) nEVs on streets: EVLN(Keller's are fixing up a C-Car
by bruce parmenter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: AC/DC thing
by Dave <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Safety of inverter/controller or whole system?
by "(-Phil-)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Embarrassing Moments , Was: EV's are less maintenance?
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Non EV Rewind info
by "(-Phil-)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Two
by "Phelps" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Dueling fillups
by "TrotFox Greyfoot" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) RE: Two
by "childreypa" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Paul,
A keyed shaft is likely the easiest to adapt to with off the shelf
parts. However, see what the motor has and do some investigating to see
what you can come up with. I ended up with a series wound motor for a
good price but is has a 13 spline SAE B shaft about 1 3/8 inches long.
I have a front 13 tooth 13 spline sprocket from a Kawasaki Z400 or
KFX400 that fits (just a tad loose) that could easily be used by cutting
in a relief for the retainer lock (but the shaft is likely not hard
enough to survive with such a thin mating surface to the hardened
sprocket). I should mention that I am working on a motorcycle. The
best connection would be purchasing a tapered bushing that is smaller
than the minimum size of the splined shaft and have a machine shop use a
broach to remove material so that the tapered hub matches the splined
shaft. Then, when the appropriate sprocket or pulley is installed, the
new splined hub will pinch down on the splined shaft and create a good
connection that is very wide.
Possibly you could machine any spline teeth off the shaft, and then
machine in a new keyway, but you are losing strength here with a smaller
shaft size. It is possible to press out some motor shafts, and then
press in a shaft that has the size and key you are looking for, but only
a motor shop should work at this as you can easily destroy your motor.
For your drive question, I have also thought that an independent rear
end would be a good setup for attaching one or more DC motors to. The
differential is mounted stationary, and can be connected to with a drive
shaft. But I have always thought that a short chain drive or even a
belt drive would give extra gear reduction and would work. By mounting
two motors you may be able to offset any side pressure on the
differential input shaft that would cause wear.
Also, with two motors, you can run them in series for torque to get
moving, and then switch to parallel for speed. Look at
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/35 and see what John Wayland is doing
with a Datsun 1200. The motor is essentially two series-wound DC motors
combined end to end. The site gives a clue as to how the series
parallel change is made: "Three SW200 Albright contactors for
series/parallel motor section switching".
If you can find a lot of your parts for a low cost, then you may have
some headroom to purchase specific parts needed for your setup that are
not available elsewhere. I am trying to learn this myself. I can see
where having the correct parts at hand will make the EV EVen easier to
assemble, EVen safer, EVen more enjoyable.
I hope the motors turn out to be what you need. Let us know what you
end up with.
Alan
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of childreypa
Sent: Monday, June 11, 2007 7:37 AM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: RE: Twin Motors, forklifts and drive belts?
Thanks for the good advice. I called the fella with the lift before they
took out the motors. He was kinda reluctant to sell me the lift. I don't
know if there was salvage stuff he wanted or not, i was just tryng to
save him some time in doing the scrapping myself. I did learn that at 7
cents a lb for scrap metal, this lift is worth 500$. So I didn't push
for the lift. Sounds like the motors are the only things really worth
saving anyway.
Now, I haven't gotten the motors yet (he said call tomorrow) but at this
point im assuming they are series DC hopefully with a keyed shaft. Thats
sounds wishful though, most likely they have some kind of spline or
helical cone gear right? Can I have that machined down?
Also, after looking at other setups with twin motors I think the whole
side-by-side coupling is alot of trouble. I mean using a belt and
toothed pulleys are the best way to go it would seem abut its a far cry
from just bolting the motor to your clutch. And I have though about the
independent rear as a possible direct drive solution. Thats is my main
question. Can I use both motors direct drive at the rear wheels. Will
there be enough torque? Im guessing I deffinetely need a reduction gear.
Any ideas on this. I want to keep things simple without alot of
elaborate fabrcating if I can help it.
Thanks,
Paul
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Didnd't John Wayland recently mention that he built a truck and despite
massive battery weight could do 120miles per charge?
Also while I'm not well versed in this I get the initial impression that
batteries waste a lot of their capacity at high discharge so rather than
drive on one bank at a time it will probably give you better range to
drive on all. lower discharge per battery thus more efficient thus
longer range. from what I understand
curiously enough the wiki on rolling resistance seems to indicate that
truck tires have relatively better rolling resistance which might be why
the extra weight in the truck doesn't translate to eating the extra
battery capacity. maybe hgher tire pressure in truck tires?
might be a significant advantage in getting speciel low resistance tires
too if they exist for trucks. or maybe they already are
Dan
S. Love wrote:
anyone ever actually complete the conversion on a full size truck?
I know there were a couple in the making, but have never seen one actually
completed.
what were the results?
Any tips or pointers to convert a fullsize dodge 2500 4X4?
I know, I know, the 4X4 is not the best for a conversion, but I regularly
drive through the dirt on jobsites, and the clearace (and 4X4) is really
handy.
I know it will carry the battery weight without a problem, when I got the
truck, the only thing the bed was used for is signage, they are big sheets
of plastic, and sometimes wood, they are big, but they are not heavy.
I was thinking of losing the engine, and transmission, and bolting the
electric motor directly to the transfer case..
the motorbay and under the bed will all be reserved for batteries.
3 or maybe 4 banks 144v each? or more? is this plausable? when one is low,
switch to the other and then the other? I am concerned about the additional
weight of the batteries actually subtracting from the distance achieveable.
I know each bank will end up weighing like 800 pounds, which is not much in
the grand scheme of things, but 800X3=2,400 pounds. and 800X4=3,200 pounds.
and that is alot.. (the current motor and transmission weigh about 1,600
and also subtracting the cooling systems, and exhaust, and fuel tank,
pumps, etc, I think I can get it to a little over breakeven, but I know
lighter is better for an EV)
any help is appreciated
thank
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Subject: RE: Two
Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2007 15:25:10 -0400
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "childreypa" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
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Hey,=20
Being that I am inexperenced but maybe with enough knowledge to finally =
answer a question more on my level...=20
=20
You can use switches to switch in batteries. They are called contactors =
when used for such high amps. Similar to relays but heavier duty. You =
should arrange and wire the batteries in a series/ parallel arrangement =
so that theyare all discharging at 24, 48 and 96 volts, or whatever =
voltage you want. Older controllers were called contactor controllers. =
They mechanically switched voltages, I imaging kinda like shifting =
gears. There is information on the EVDL pertaining to their =
construction. I could send you past posts Ive saved. I plan to make a =
controller using a Parallax microcontroller. Programmed to energize =
different contactors remotely placed at the batterry pack depending on =
the position of my throttle potentiometer. (anyone with suggestions on =
this im open to suggestions).=20
=20
I think a cheap controller can be had from a junked golf cart? Some club =
cars have a pretty decent sized controller and maybe you can get it =
cheap. Otherwise I think you are gonna spend atleast 500 dollars.
=20
hope this helps.
paul=20
________________________________
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] on behalf of Phelps
Sent: Mon 6/11/2007 2:28 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Two
Two simple questios..first..why use a controller.. Why not just 4 or 6 =
100
amp switches that add one more battery with every flick??
Second.. Where is a good cheap place to get a 400 amp controller..
Not having seen one before .. Is it like a light dimming switch that you
turn when you want more power??
Thanks Mitchell=20
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Subject: RE: Two
Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2007 15:25:10 -0400
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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Thread-Topic: Two
thread-index: AcesWQw5eQA55r1qQ7iwX1du2xGJvAAA9aRF
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From: "childreypa--
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