EV Digest 6917
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) RE: Solectria Force Contactor?
by "Dale Ulan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: AWD Conversions?
by "Mark Ward" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: AWD Conversions?
by "Sean Korb" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) RE: AWD Conversions?
by "Paschke, Stephen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: DCDC converter, was Doers vs talkers
by Dan Frederiksen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Clutch, Keepin' it.
by "joe" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Clutch, Keepin' it.
by Paul <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) RE: Clutch
by "Phelps" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Clutch, Keepin' it. Ruland shaft coupler
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
10) unsubscibe
by "Peel, Robert \(.\)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Wheelchair batteries
by "Phelps" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: EVision sneak preview
by "John O'Connor" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: to quote the Beatles, "HELP" Zilla problems
by "John O'Connor" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Clutch, Keepin' it.
by [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Dana Havranek)
15) Re: Nicad batteries
by "Tehben Dean" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: AC Motor?
by "Rob Hogenmiller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Clutch, Keepin' it.
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) RE: Google presses for 100 MPG vehicle
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Going Clutchless
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: EV parts ordered! - ?questions?
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Clutch, Keepin' it.
by Frank John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Zombie rises from the dead Siamese8 lives again
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: AWD Conversions?
by "Zeke Yewdall" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
>on squeezing out another percentage point or two of efficiency, and I'd
guess
>that he also wanted to keep the prices from getting too unreasonable.
I gotta admit those controllers, if they held together, should have been
very efficient. I think I drop a percentage point in efficiency with my
IGBT rebuild, but 250V, 300A MOSFET modules are a bit expensive and rare
these days. I don't want to worry about matching a ton of MOSFET's like
Otmar has to do.
> Didn't the later ones use a single-speed gearbox and their
> AC system? Was their AC system any more reliable than the
> brushless DC units?
>I don't know about "later." I own Solectria Force #1, and it has an AC
>induction drive with a single speed gearbox.
...
Maybe, but those brushless DC motors shouldn't be cheaper than the
AC ones, should they? Do you know if they used the same control
board for their AC controllers as their BLDC's?
>I got the impression that not many of the DC cars were sold, but your
>experience may suggest otherwise.
My two BRLS-16 motors actually came from a university that purchased
them back in, oh, maybe 1992 or 1993 for a hybrid-electric vehicle
project. They (the controllers - not the motors) blew up several
times, got repaired just in time for competition, then blew up
after the competition, I think either shortly after getting home
or just before getting in the trailer. The team switched over to
UQM motors shortly after that. I'm only aware of the one BLDC
Force that I have the controller out of, though I'm sending it
back (repaired) in a few days.
The reason for the original question, though, was that I raised
the amount of capacitor in there by a factor of three, mostly to
get a ripple current rating that's high enough. I would prefer
to have a ripple current rating equal to the maximum motor current,
but I settled for around 50% of that rating... still over double
the original parts installed. I wanted to ensure that some
contactor would not weld shut on the first power-up. It's about
25,000 uF of capacitor and 60 or 70 amps of ripple current.
-Dale
--- End Message ---
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I think you will find your losses in friction and extra forces needed to run
AWD are not worth the energy it will take to do it. Think about it this
way. A lot of the big SUVs (Support Usama Vehicles) are the one's that get
the least in fuel efficiency. A lot of that is the weight and some their
elephant aerodynamics, but much of it is the AWD they don't need most of the
time. There isn't any efficiency in turning parts you don't really need.
The most efficient EV would be one with a single motor mounted on a single
wheel directly driving it. You get the idea.
Mark Ward
"Saabrina" World's first NG 900 Saab EV
www.saabrina.blogspot.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "John A. Evans - N0HJ" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 3:46 PM
Subject: AWD Conversions?
Greetings,
One more question and then I'll crawl back in my hole. If I didn't
obtain an S10 or Ranger for conversion, I might consider using my 92
Subaru Legacy wagon. I think it could be beefed up for carrying the
battery load and seems reasonably aerodynamic. I would need to deal with
installing a standard transmission or providing an alternate drive train
connection, but my main question has to do with the All Wheel Drive in the
Subaru's.
Has anyone done an EV conversion with an AWD vehicle? Would I be losing
a lot in the AWD mechanism? Have folks had success converting the AWD to,
say, front or rear wheel drive? Using my existing vehicle would go a long
way to finance this conversion, but if it is a big mistake, I will throw
away that option.
tnx,
john
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Some older Subarus were normally fwd with 4wd selectable. You could do
a hybrid by taking out the rear driveshaft and adding a smallish motor,
maybe a 6.7".
You could just put an 8 or 9" on the transmission and remove the
driveshaft for a little more efficiency. Get the curb weight and add up
the battery weight for a 144V pack to see if it goes over the GVW much.
I think you would need 144V for the hill performance you want. I would
estimate a controller, motor, charger and misc parts to be close to the
ice parts weight you would remove. This is just a rough guess.
Use Uve's calculator page to adjust batteries until you get your range.
> Stephen Paschke
> DAR, ERISA, Plan Review, and IPI/ICTMS support,
>TIAA-CREF Denver
> Senior Consultant
> Keane, Inc.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of John A. Evans - N0HJ
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 2:46 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: AWD Conversions?
Greetings,
One more question and then I'll crawl back in my hole. If I didn't
obtain an S10 or Ranger for conversion, I might consider using my 92
Subaru Legacy wagon. I think it could be beefed up for carrying the
battery load and seems reasonably aerodynamic. I would need to deal
with installing a standard transmission or providing an alternate drive
train connection, but my main question has to do with the All Wheel
Drive in the Subaru's.
Has anyone done an EV conversion with an AWD vehicle? Would I be
losing a lot in the AWD mechanism? Have folks had success converting
the AWD to, say, front or rear wheel drive? Using my existing vehicle
would go a long way to finance this conversion, but if it is a big
mistake, I will throw away that option.
tnx,
john
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--- Begin Message ---
Yes they might actually work. not sure why I couldn't find those at
digikey. do you happen to know an online source for them too?
the minimum input voltage is a bit high but the graph seems to indicate
it might work lower. 140v minimum is a bit high in a one size fits all
controller but maybe if it can work well down to 120.
The power is not great so will I need a transistor to drive the big
transistors? not sure about gate charge and saturation etc yet
Dan
Thomas Ward wrote:
are these any good to you?
http://www.pwrx.com/pwrx/docs/m57184n_715b.pdf
http://www.pwrx.com/pwrx/docs/m57182n_315.pdf
Dan Frederiksen wrote:
maybe a range of 100-400V and around 3-500A
I've seen the simple text book circuits but there is of course more
to it. I need to supply the low voltage components from the unknown
100-400v supply
efficiently
I've looked for switching voltage regulators components for that but
haven't found any
and don't know how to make it discretely
Dan
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Nope, not on my two such vehicles
Joseph H. Strubhar
Web: www.gremcoinc.com
E-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marty Hewes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 7:51 AM
Subject: Re: Clutch, Keepin' it.
Has anyone running without clutch and flywheel or with direct drive (motor
to driveshaft variety) on the street experienced such failures? Obviously
an electric motor of reasonable size without flywheel or clutch has a
whole lot less rotational mass than an ICE with a 30 pound flywheel, might
be a little less of the "between a rock and a hard place" going on.
Anybody know of a rubber donut or something that could go in the
driveshaft?
Marty
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Dube" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 5:25 PM
Subject: Re: Clutch, Keepin' it.
The bad thing about removing the clutch from the system is that you also
remove the springs in the center of the clutch. You are also removing the
torque-peak-limiting feature of the clutch. They put those springs in
there for a good reason.
When you go over a pot hole or railroad tracks, HUGE torque spikes travel
backwards through the drive train. The clutch center springs and the
clutch itself greatly reduce and limit these torque peaks.
If you eliminate the clutch (and its springs) you will shorten the life
of the transmission and differential gears significantly. The torque
peaks will fatigue the gear teeth and they will chip and fail. The
bearings won't like it much either.
Bill Dube'
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Jun 19, 2007, at 6:47 AM, John Wayland wrote:
Wonderful...you have to teach someone how not to do the wrong thing
for what is normally one of life's simple pleasures, shift a crisp
manual tranny behind a fun power plant in a car you love. Please
everyone, don't accept the mediocre results of going clutchless.
These guys are giving bad advice if you truly enjoy driving with a
manual tranny. On the other hand, if you don't enjoy driving and
don't enjoy the fun that comes with a properly set up clutch,
flywheel, and manual tranny, and if your EV perhaps is already
lacking in fun factor, than go ahead and do it...it will add to the
home brew effect for sure.
From the rest of your post I was able to glean that the Datsun W56
transmission doesn't appreciate clutchless operation. I have that
concern with a Geo Metro transaxle as they have been known show signs
of worn syncros as a gas car, with a clutch, after as little as 120k
miles. My '66 Datsun will be retaining the clutch.
The reason clutchless operation works for EVs is that motors don't
idle and don't have compression. Releasing the throttle is much the
same as pushing in the clutch on an ICE car. The *catch* is that the
motor armature will pack a bigger inertial punch that a clutch disc.
That will only be worse if the coupler is also a large diameter or
heavy.
I didn't know that my EV Buggy was lacking in fun factor or suffered
from excessive home brew effect. <http://evalbum.com/125.html> or
<http://www.evfun.com> (old site, the Pickup has been sold) I
installed the Prestolite MTC-4001 motor without a clutch using a
Ruland shaft coupler. Frankly, the VW Beetle clutch was never much
fun anyway (stupid cable operated thing.) Its true, I can't bark the
tires each shift. Its true the shift is a bit slower, but even when
pressured on an up-hill onramp I can snap off the 2>3 shift with
enough style to keep others from noticing (my co-workers mostly
notice that I keep going past them silently at 70 mph :-) Down
shifting is a bit more of a pain but easily handled with a quick blip
of the throttle while between gears.
I'd recommend getting advice specific to the transmission or
transaxle you plan to use and consider your application. Some seem to
take clutchless operation better than others. The air cooled Beetle
transaxle seems very tolerant. No matter what tranny you are using
(unless its a manually shifted automatic) clutchless is *not* the
racers edge.
See ya at the Greenwood show!
Paul "neon" G.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I am selling the ICE motor on ebay .. Unless you want to buy it..Yes It is
a 1.0
3 cylinder
And I have decided to keep the clutch
Mitchell
-------Original Message-------
From: Dewey, Jody R ATC COMNAVAIRLANT, N422G5G
Date: 6/19/2007 8:25:38 AM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: RE: Clutch
Mitchell,
What are you doing with your old geo motor? Is it a 1.0 3 cylinder?
You can shift without a clutch. You just have to match road speed to
What gear you will be in. Be very careful though - Geo transmissions
Are notorious for ruining synchros in 1st and 2nd from downshifting. It
Is said they are soft and break easily. I would recommend keeping the
Clutch just so you don't have problems later.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Phelps
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2007 15:20
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Clutch
Well I just pulled the engine out of my Geo.
And I am one of these guys that need to see things to have them make
Since some of the time..
So heres the deal..If I bolt my Motor up to the shaft coming out of the
Transmission..Which is what I am suppose to do..
I will no longer have a clutch..
And to shift gears.. What ??
I turn the motor speed down and just throw the stick shift into the next
Gear?
Is that right
It sounds amazing to me. If that is it.
Thanks Mitchell
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unsubscibe
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I never seen anybody answer this one?? What about W/C batteries .. Seeing
how I work at the second largest nursing home in the country.. There are
lots of them flying around me all day. Are they any good?
-------Original Message-------
From: Brandon Kruger
Date: 6/18/2007 12:27:58 PM
To: EV list
Subject: Wheelchair batteries
Hey everyone,
After searching the archives, I didn't see anything about using
Wheelchair batteries in an EV. Are they commonly deep-cycle or suited
For an EV? I saw some 50Ah AGM Diehard wheelchair batteries at Sears
For a good price. Has anyone had any experience with wheelchair
Batteries?
--
Brandon Kruger
http://bmk789.dyndns.org/ev/
http://cafepress.com/altfuel
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Sounds like I need to find a place to make a 73.5mm hole. Look
forward to being able to trade you some money for one of these things.
John
On Jun 18, 2007, at 9:57 PM, Victor Tikhonov wrote:
It is competitor - in the sense that no need to have Xantrex hardware.
EVision is a self-contained stand alone system.
It is not a competitor in the sense that e-meter is not really an
EV gadget and have been adapted to work in an EV for the lack of
anything else (apart from BRUSA Ah counter) - it is meant to be a
marine low voltage instrument. Thus in EV it requires prescaler,
isolated power and as far as I heard strict sequence of connecting
it; else according to periodic woes on the list, it blows up,
sometimes with bad luck taking with it computers if attached to its
serial port.
EVision is in its class, designed for EV from ground up and BTW does
not require any external power supplies to run, not even 12V house
battery. It runs off of the propulsion pack it measures, consuming
about 2mA in my 345V pack case. Yes, serial port is isolated.
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
John O'Connor wrote:
Someone else mentioned it was stupid question time on another
thread so I'm going to ask one here as well.
Will this device be a competitor to the Link10/Emeter, or an add
on if you have the xantrex device?
On Jun 18, 2007, at 9:26 AM, John Wayland wrote:
I've held a prototype model in my hands and will say, that this
is going to be one of those 'must have' devices for anyone's EVs!
Victor has put a lot of thought into this new product...he's a
very thorough guy.
<snip>
See Ya....John Wayland
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When I had my truck all wired up for a proof of concept run I think I
was getting that code for a while. Tightening the connection on the
wires from the contactor to the hairball fixed it for me.
On Jun 18, 2007, at 10:30 PM, Matthew Milliron wrote:
I need help. I have Zilla problems. I hooked everything up and
took a ride. Parked it in the garage and the next day it won't run. I
am getting an 1132 error code (controller did not communicate during
precharge). Also I am getting a 17.5 volt short from the traction
pack to ground/body of the car. I have traced it to the controller.
Is this normal? Why won't the Hairball talk to the controller? I was
sooo looking to go for a ride.
R. Matt Milliron
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
1981 Jet Electrica
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/702
My daughter named it, "Pikachu". It's yellow and black,
electric and contains Japanese parts, so I went with it.
--- End Message ---
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You bet.
If going clutchless, consider disassembling the clutch disc hub and attach it
to the taper lock coupling.
The rivets have to be drilled out of the disc hub and it has to be attached to
a drive ring that is welded to the taper lock hub. It softens up the driveline.
It's a custom built adaptor, though.
I would install a clutch on a lighter EV with AGM's and built to be quick.
I would like to build a car like that..
But my 4000 pound little commuter car, I think, works nice with out a clutch.
I think they both have their pro's and con's.
It depends on what you want to do with the car.
I haven't decided what to do with my clutch peddle and little hydraulic slave
cylinder.
I thought about hooking up to the suspension and making the front of the car go
up and down at stop lights.
Maybe just pop up an EV hood ornament.
Dana
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Bill Dube <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> The bad thing about removing the clutch from the system is that you
> also remove the springs in the center of the clutch. You are also
> removing the torque-peak-limiting feature of the clutch. They put
> those springs in there for a good reason.
>
> When you go over a pot hole or railroad tracks, HUGE torque spikes
> travel backwards through the drive train. The clutch center springs
> and the clutch itself greatly reduce and limit these torque peaks.
>
> If you eliminate the clutch (and its springs) you will shorten the
> life of the transmission and differential gears significantly. The
> torque peaks will fatigue the gear teeth and they will chip and fail.
> The bearings won't like it much either.
>
> Bill Dube'
>
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Well I bought a I-zip scooter for $15.00 everything works, but I don't have
a charger for it.
It has a 24 Volt battery system (two batteries connected)
I don't have a 24 volt charger that it's supposed to use at 1.5amp.
I have a charger that puts out 18v at 1.1amp.
Will this work?
God bless
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Humphrey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "EV" <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 7:15 AM
Subject: RE: AC Motor?
Wow, that's cheap. It's also crap!! Every Drill Master product I've ever
seen was totally useless junk. This one wouldn't last 5 minutes in a
childs ride on toy.
This one
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=44849
on the other hand, is more expensive, but worth it at only 40 bux. While
it is not a worldclass tool, it still immpresses me with it's robustness.
Even more important is the charger that comes with this one monitors the
battery and shuts itself off when the charge cycle is complete (kind of;
it only monitors one cell's temp for a shut off point, but the DM just
keeps on cooking until the battery pack is toasted (overnite)).
The Chicago isn't commercial quality, but it really is a pretty good tool
for it's price range. I would highly recommend it for this purpose.
I bought another one, just for the charger. Now Pete's got me thinking....
--
Stay Charged!
Hump
I-5, Blossvale NY
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Peter VanDerWal
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 7:58 AM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: AC Motor?
However, I did see an electric bike that used an inverter and a AC
handheld power drill to power it...
Hmm, that reminds me. Here is a complete child size EV power system
including motor/controller/NiCad battery and Charger.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93440
All for $15
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I can attest to what it is like without the springs.
My racing clutch doesn't have them! it takes me over a second to shift
with the clutch because it rings the driveline like a bell if I let it
out to fast.
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The real problem is I would probably buy batteries from Thunder Sky
before believing anything GM says, but I am hopeful they have finnally
seen the light.
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I will be going clutchless as soon as I can afford the parts.
another warp9 and some contactors, :-)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Tehben Dean wrote:
The fluid heater is from metricmind.com. As far as efficiency I really
have no idea, it came with the package and it seems like a really smooth
setup being able to hook directly to the stock heating system.
It is practically 100% efficient, e.g. all the energy it wastes,
(consumes), goes to heat and nothing else ;-)
Victor, do I need to keep the radiator for cooling the motor and
inverter?
It's simplest because it already comes with the vehicle, but you
don't have to. A small radiator from any motorcycle water cooled engine
will do.
Should I have the heater on a separate fluid circuit to keep
the motor and inverter cool without wasting heat from the heater?
Yes, those loops must be separate. One has to be as cold as possible,
the other - as hot as possible. If you mix them, you get neither.
Get a couple pics of your rig up on the EV Album to reserve your "EV
number" http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/# ;-)
It's there since 2002: http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/194
Lots of changes since then though, for one I no longer hooked to lead.
I will ;)
Will be fun to see your creation.
TEhben
Victor
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Here is a link showing pictures on how EVAmerica recommends going clutchless.
It seemed like a good compromise to me...
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Lab/4429/cl3.htm
----- Original Message ----
From: Bill Dube <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 6:25:18 PM
Subject: Re: Clutch, Keepin' it.
The bad thing about removing the clutch from the system is that you
also remove the springs in the center of the clutch. You are also
removing the torque-peak-limiting feature of the clutch. They put
those springs in there for a good reason.
When you go over a pot hole or railroad tracks, HUGE torque spikes
travel backwards through the drive train. The clutch center springs
and the clutch itself greatly reduce and limit these torque peaks.
If you eliminate the clutch (and its springs) you will shorten the
life of the transmission and differential gears significantly. The
torque peaks will fatigue the gear teeth and they will chip and fail.
The bearings won't like it much either.
Bill Dube'
____________________________________________________________________________________
Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your story. Play
Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games.
http://sims.yahoo.com/
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Hey all
Been awhile since my last update as I've had my hands
full with about 8 days that felt somewhere between
"land of the living dead" and "Humpty Dumpty" LMAO!!!
I guess I'll resume the update with a maybe unknown
fact that the Siamese8 will be two years old here in a
couple weeks 8^D With that said it has taken me 2
long years to glean any data from this Frankensteined
mutant oddity we call the Siamese8. Now back then
there was no "Siamese8-Z2K" to look at so this was a
real shoot from the hip project, if you know what I
mean 8^) Anyway getting my hands back on it has
allowed me some useful information.
With that said there were things I am just tickled to
death with as to how they've handled the abuse from
"Kill it or die Wayland and son" and then there were
some things that shows where hindsight is a wonderful
thing indeed. Mostly it's been great news with most
of the (lets call them issues) lying on the shaft.
Like both John and Keith said,(been lots of calls to
John and Keith, LMAO) "hey we'd never done it before"
now we know more than we did 2 years ago.
Furthermore we are dealing with a shaft that can not
be more tha 1 3/16" diameter for an 8" motor armature.
I need to backtrack a bit here with some basic
ramblings. When the arms were originally pressed on
it was somewhere between 2 and 3 AM at the Dutchmans
shop. Keith had to press them due to liability
issues, so between that, the 5 pounds of sand it felt
were under my eyelids, and Johns big fat head in my
way most the time I didn't get a really good feel for
how they interfaced and such.
Now that I've had both arms off and pressed back on I
will report that the shaft has lets say some "boing"
to it 8^o When pressing it, you can see it bend a bit
and then boing back once pressure was removed (lets
say there are a lot of 6" strokes needed to press that
bad boy)(I actually had to start on my bottom tray
holes and worked almost to my highest ones on the
press) anyway lets just say I got some press time on
it.
For those who just have to know, I'd say 12 to 15 tons
were required to press it which is about a third or
better tighter than an OEM shaft.
Anyway it's a catch 22 as this "boing" as I call it is
probably why Wayland hasn't snapped into pieces but is
also allowing it to warp over and rub the pole shoes.
Keith called a metallurgist who stated that this is
probably still our best option with heat treating as
the other option which Keith says also has it's cons.
I did tell Keith that it'd be nice to somehow mod one
of the Transwarp9 slip yoke bushing snouts to try and
keep the shaft from wagging under the torque. With no
wear or oddities in any of the motor parts I must
recant my housing wagging theory. Although I do think
it's still a good idea to mount the hind end down
although it might be more for future issues than
current ones, lol. Adding something more like the
tranny / slip yoke nose on the Transwarp9 might help
the shaft from flexing.
Being John's been calling me like EVery 37 minutes I
soon saw I wasn't gonna get the time I wanted with the
old gal. John decided he wanted 5 more degrees in
advancement, and the solid leads I've been working up
to replace those nasty ugly ass cable leads I had in
there. Because John didn't want to have to screw up
his mountings on the front motor I had to add the
advancement to the brush rings and not just rotate the
end plates.
Problem is the OEM brush rings come with a divot on
the bottom side where they bolt on to the end plate
which will not allow them to pivot. Needing a flat
bottomed ring I had to make two new ones. I set the
first one with 5 degrees and then set the other one to
5 in the other direction (both half's run electrically
backwards from each other). I knew I wouldn't need
the full amount as the distances aren't the same. I
measured the CCWDE timing holes at .700 and the CWDE
holes at .500 and calc'd the rings to match and locked
down the adjustable ring there as the ball park area
(which was actually very close, almost dead on)
Because I didn't know exactly where the one ring would
sit when timed I had to leave the solid leads
unattached to the holder and just screwed the brushes
into them as there was no way I could get holes to
line up like that.
Alright I'm getting ahead of myself and I must
backtrack some more with a couple fun sidelines. When
building the Siamese8 up the first time I was working
with pretty much brand new armatures and although they
ran what I'd call lift motor balanced it did have a
bit of wobble in it. At that point, John seeing it
actually done, called it done and ran out of the shop
laughing like some horror movie fiend 8^)
With 2 years of use on them and with the rubbing issue
lets say they had a few "Rocky" type lumps and had
lost small pieces of balancing putty lost here and
there I believe due to the rubbing and the heat it
caused. Needless to say she really needed to get a
balance job done. I called a local AC motor shop who
balances stuff for me when I need. When I called them
I told them that I had a strange creature that needed
to be balanced 8^) Well I knew I'd better bring my
laptop down as there would be questions, LMAO.
When I got there and came walking in with this freak
of an armature, the guys first words were "what the
hell is that out of" I told him that if he had a
minute I'd go get the laptop and show him ,as it beat
telling him 8^o
Now something of this nature usually brings out the
boss, so by the time I went to my truck and back the
owner was at the counter 8^) I played a couple videos
to a huge bemusement of them both, but as I went to
shut them down they told me to hold on and got the two
guys in back for a show 8^)
I think they just wanted to watch them again, LMAO!
Anyway pretty fun stuff! With that said this motor
has never been so smooth 8^o
Moving on...
When it came time to paint the motor John had picked
out a grape jelly purple and he in fact had bought and
supplied it (actually painted them himself outside his
garage just before we did a show and tell during an
EVent that year)
Well two years has gone by, not to mention I didn't
buy it the first time, LMAO. John tells me he got it
at Fred Meyers, so I bip down to the local store to
hunt me down some grape jelly paint. They had a color
chart and what appeared to be the color was named
"wild grape", guess what? They didn't carry it 8^(
but they did carry what they called "iris" and it was
just a tad lighter but would do 8^) But they didn't
carry it in big cans just these little BS touch up
cans 8^(
While I was there I saw the same company made this
wild (what they called anodized looking) purple paint
8^) But then I figured John would shoot me 8^( In
the end I grabbed a bunch of small cans of the Iris
and two of this weird paint. I showed John a sample
and he said why not go with this new look as he was in
town that day. Upon painting it with a couple of
coats to even it up it got really dark, way dark like
almost black purple
8^(
I called John and told him it looked like crap and his
motor would be Iris! After applying a coat over the
dark undercoat the color cured to this really nice
just slightly darker then OEM look that seems to "pop"
out a bit more than the wild grape it had been.
Anyway it was one of those bad turned good stories 8^)
John seemed to like it as well.
Anyway I handed it back to John today and he sped off
laughing like some horror movie villain again and I
couldn't help but feel like I just had a dejavue
moment 8^P
On that I'm gonna wrap this up for now.
Hope you enjoyed.
Cya
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
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--- Begin Message ---
Seems that one judge of whether a car is suitable for conversion is
what kind of gas mileage the ICE version gets -- subaru's are
generally around 28mpg, which is as good or better than something like
an S-10, so I would imagine that you could expect similar efficiency
-- however they may not have the battery capacity that the pickup
would have.
Remember that subarus came in 2wd versions till around 1994 too. For
the part time 4 wheel drive ones (the loyales, and DL/GL series) the
rear axles and drivetrain remains rotating even when in 2wd (no
unlocking rear hubs), so you don't gain anything by putting it in 2wd.
But if you could find a 2wd tranny (just taking the driveshaft out
doesn't work, because all the oil leaks out, and the 4wd tranny is a
bit heavier too) that could save a bit of weights and rotating mass.
The all wheel drive trannies cant really be turned into 2wd -- if you
remove the driveshaft, in addition to all the oil leaking out, I think
it gets very unhappy and burns out the clutch pack that transfers
power to the rear wheels. That's what happens when you remove a front
axle at least -- it might not happen if you remove the driveshaft to
the rear though.
Someone had an electric series II landrover -- and I think I might
have heard of an electric suzuki samuri?
Z
On 6/19/07, Paschke, Stephen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Some older Subarus were normally fwd with 4wd selectable. You could do
a hybrid by taking out the rear driveshaft and adding a smallish motor,
maybe a 6.7".
You could just put an 8 or 9" on the transmission and remove the
driveshaft for a little more efficiency. Get the curb weight and add up
the battery weight for a 144V pack to see if it goes over the GVW much.
I think you would need 144V for the hill performance you want. I would
estimate a controller, motor, charger and misc parts to be close to the
ice parts weight you would remove. This is just a rough guess.
Use Uve's calculator page to adjust batteries until you get your range.
> Stephen Paschke
> DAR, ERISA, Plan Review, and IPI/ICTMS support,
>TIAA-CREF Denver
> Senior Consultant
> Keane, Inc.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of John A. Evans - N0HJ
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 2:46 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: AWD Conversions?
Greetings,
One more question and then I'll crawl back in my hole. If I didn't
obtain an S10 or Ranger for conversion, I might consider using my 92
Subaru Legacy wagon. I think it could be beefed up for carrying the
battery load and seems reasonably aerodynamic. I would need to deal
with installing a standard transmission or providing an alternate drive
train connection, but my main question has to do with the All Wheel
Drive in the Subaru's.
Has anyone done an EV conversion with an AWD vehicle? Would I be
losing a lot in the AWD mechanism? Have folks had success converting
the AWD to, say, front or rear wheel drive? Using my existing vehicle
would go a long way to finance this conversion, but if it is a big
mistake, I will throw away that option.
tnx,
john
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--
Zeke Yewdall
Chief Electrical Engineer
Sunflower Solar, A NewPoint Energy Company
Cell: 720.352.2508
Office: 303.459.0177
FAX documents to: 720.269.1240
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Quotable Quote
"In the dark of the moon, in flying snow,
in the dead of winter, war spreading,
families dying, the world in danger,
I walk the rocky hillside
sowing clover."
Wendell Berry
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