I bought a sheet of 6mm plywood from CLC. The frame,
when complete, will resemble a traditional Greenland
style frame. The gunwales will look like an I-beam
with the plwood serving as the core and yellow cedar
strips at the corners (except for the top inside edge
which will have a beefier strip of ash to support the
deck beams).
The frame will be assembled in two halves (each half
consisting of six gunwale segments). Once the
gunwales are assembled and the deck beams installed,
the ribs (steamed y. cedar or ash) will be inserted
into mortised areas of the gunwales, followed by the
installation of the two chines and the keelson. The
two halves will be inserted into the skin and
longitudinal tension will be placed on the frame so
that the last two gunwales pieces may be installed.
>From there, if lateral tension is required, I'll
install low volume sponsons.
I like the idea Pouch uses on it stern seam. I think
I'll try to pursue that idea instead of the zipper.
Lew Crenshaw
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Lew Crenshaw: I'd like to report that I've made no
> progress on my winter
> project.
> Ralph Hoehn: I have not even finished my summer
> project (it's called an
> addition to the house ... and will still be there
> next summer)!
>
> LC: ... pilgrimage to Chesapeake Light Craft to
> purchase a sheet of Okume ...
> RH: For the frames? What thickness? How many layers?
>
> LC: ... rear windowless, rusted-out, beat-up e.80's
> Ford F-150 (I always
> travel in style).
> RH: May I suggest you find yourself "The Thousand
> Dollar Yacht"? I think I
> got it from the local library one time. I'm sure
> that an internet search will
> get you the author and availability. I believe that
> they towed said yacht
> behind a clapped out Volvo at one point, talking of
> style.
>
> LC: Anyways, I have begun drawing lines onto the
> plywood
> and will purchase the hardware after my
> post-Christmas
> economic recovery.
> RH: Did you mention in a previous post what design
> you are using (and I
> missed it)?
>
> LC: ... I plan on inserting the frame into the skin
> by means of a large
> access hole ...
> RH: Nautiraid does indeed use a zipper, but it's a
> regular (albeit heavy
> duty) one. A flap held in place with hook-and-loop
> tape covers it. Not
> waterproof.
>
> Pouch went back to a solution found on a folding
> sailing dinghy about forty
> years ago: The aft deck is split down the middle all
> the way into the
> cockpit. The two edges are reinforced with
> (flexible) piping (about 1/4 inch
> in diameter). They end up cheek-to-cheek inside a
> slit aluminium tube, which
> you thread over them from the stern. Once you
> inflate the sponsons, the skin
> receives lateral tension, which presses the piping
> together and also seals
> the deck material along the edge of the tube. That
> is water tight.
>
> Zippers are not designed to withstand lateral
> tension. Pouch feels that they
> may actually fail over time. Dry-suit type zippers
> are very expensive
> (especially if you need them the length of an entire
> aft deck!). Personally I
> would mistrust zippers deeply in this application
> (but perhaps that's
> influenced by the fact that I always had trouble
> replacing them in trousers?)
>
> Peter Chopelas inserts pieces of his frame into the
> skin through a roll-top
> hatch at the stern of the boat. If one made that
> large enough to accomodate
> the largest circumference on the finished frame,
> that might be an option. One
> would have to use straps to ensure lateral tension
> of the skin in way of the
> hatch though before closing it.
>
> How are you planning to provide both longitudinal
> and lateral tension for the
> skin?
>
> Best regards,
> Ralph
>
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