Hi Cin,
Did you not enlarge the armscye nor the shoulder width at all?
Thanks for your comments.
Bjarne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "h-cost" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 12:55 AM
Subject: re: [h-cost] williamsburg suit
Subject: [h-cost] williamsburg suit
I am trying to make myself a new suit, and today i drafted the pattern of
the english coat in Costume Close Up.
The armholes are much much two small and the shoulderseam sits very badly
on
me. I have to redy the cut.
This i always have to do and i wondered if others of you have the same
problems?
Yes, of course. I did Coat, Vest and Breeches from suit #17. You
might want to troll thru the h-cost discussion from oh say winter 2004
to spring 2005 and pickup all the comments, and answers to my
questions re this suit.
I dont understand how men had space for their arms in these suits.
Upperclass people must have ben very skinny men without much mucle if any
The coat's CF opening is about 4" wide. The buttons & buttonholes have
no useful purpose on Coat #17. This 4" spread may explain why you
think the original owner of this suit is a skinny dude.
The vest buttons closed, tho many extant vests have only the top
buttonhole actually open & useable. The rest are sewn but never cut.
If you have the Baumgartner book from Williamsburg, the Norah Waugh
Cut of Men's Clothes and Blanche Payne's layout for the 18th c suit,
you'll get a broad spectrum of cut & fitting ideas.
att all. Strange when i look at portraits, there seems to be no wrinkles
in
the armskyes, and there must have ben plenty of room for them.
This is very odd...........
Did you make a mockup that included your interfacing and other
interior construction? Without the interfacing thru the front
pectorial region, over the shoulder and across the upper back, yes it
will wrinkle. Anything would. Bodies arent smooth. Only those
corseted, pannier-wearing ladies you dress so marvelously are smooth
thru the body.
Norah Waugh shows the interfacing layout in her diagrams. If you have
an 18th c suit at hand (perhaps in a friendly museum) or even a 19th
tailcoat, you can feel the changes in interfacing at placket,
shoulders, pectorals, skirts, cuffs, etc. Even a modern *bespoke* suit
will inform.
I'm happy to try to help further, but I've only done the one 18th c
man's garment. I can however, do some pretty good tailoring.
Bjarne who wished i could for just one time make my pattern accurate at
this
point, but no...
I think you'll do just fine. Wish I could see it in progress,
--cin
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
