>> Oh! Yes there is a bit of a layout if you look at an extant gown that >> is laid flat: http://sayaespanola.glittersweet.com/extant.htm > > Two things bother me about this sleeve. On the site, she mentions that they > were cut at the top to accomodate the statue, and also they seem to be two > plain triangles, but on actual gowns the slit is not in the front - or is > the sleeve simply worn slightly rotated?
"She" is me, it is my site. I'm really not sure what you mean, the sleeve is absolutely fine the way it is it is just the lack of the top of the sleeve head that makes the sleeve look a little odd. What we see on each side is the outside panel, as it lays so flat is it possible the underside matches the outer very well. I also said *probably* cut to fit the satue :) This is my pattern: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/glittersweet/saya/webpatternvaloissleeves.jpg (sorry for the huge text, but I've had this pattern used without any discussion with me and I'd like people to know who created the pattern;) If for no other reason than they can ask me why it is shaped the way it is because it is not normal!) As you can see they are close but not quite the same laid flat as the extant sleeves and rather different to the usual. A lovely lady here created the perfect sleeves for her laurelling ceremony: http://helois.250free.com/projects/gallery_cc.htm Her work is absolutely beautiful and she has gone the route of adapting Alcega et al to reduce the back fullness. http://www.australiancostumersguild.org.au/index.php?ind=news&op=news_show_single&ide=13 This lady has the more usual sleeves as well. I did use the painting of Isabella Clara to work out approximately the angle the top line (shoulder to wrist) would need to be as you can see the brocade pattern neatly interrupted in that portrait in particular. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/glittersweet/saya/1584fdellanaisabella.jpg It also shows the back line of the sleeve to be cut in line with the selvages and the line of the bottom half of the sleeve is angled inwards from wrist to tip (So I think that pattern would wind up looking a bit like a kite if opened up). My sleeve is on the straight at the front because it appears to be so in the Valois portrait. Another point of difference to the usual (note the way the sleeve appears to wave somewhat in the Isabela Clara portrait while in the Valois the sleeves hang very straight (not just because of the weight of the pearls and jewels either!) > I looked at the patterns in Alcega yesterday night, but they didn't tell me > much other than most outer gowns are cut in a semicircle. Which ones are those? Faldallin as a kind of petticoat and the other semi-circular patterns are mantles. And for interest here is the layout I used for my Valois: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/glittersweet/saya/webpatternvalois.jpg The skirt front did not have a join across the front, that is just because I couldn't fit the entire piece on that part of the layout. Oh yes, the doublet was adapted from the pattern of the extant jerkin at the Metropolitan museum: http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/expl/hob_26.196.htm Regards, Michela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
