Hi Kimiko, I was wrestling with what the sounds like the same problem on a friend of mine's Victorian bodice. She had used hook and eye tape to close the center front, and stitched it only to the inner layer of the bodice: makes sense, right? She didn't want the stitching that holds the tape on to show. Problem was that when she had the garment on the center front was under tension, and therefore the point under tension, the lining/facing fabric, pulled out and the result was the hooks and eyes as well as the lining/facing showing. Lacing her tighter wouldn't have helped because laying on a curvy, horizontal surface just isn't a natural thing for fabric to do, and it's going to want to drag and sag and generally be disagreeable.
I could think of two solutions. Option 1: sew through all the layers, so that inside and outside are under even tension. Cover the visible stitching with trim. Option 2: which, someone already mentioned: set the hooks and eyes into the seam. Yes, they will show, and I figure: cover them with a placket. Lightweight boning in the seam helps too, though that more solves the hooks and eyes wanted to get close to each other, and causing gaps between them. If you're wearing a rigid under layer, that shouldn't be too much of a problem. Alternating hooks and eyes solves the problem of the hooks and eyes coming undone on their own, which happens when they don't have sufficient tension on them. I think my friend with the Victorian bodice is doing a combination of the two options, because the bodice is already made up and taking it apart to set hooks and eyes into the seams is just more effort than necessary. And say...how about sharing some pics? :) Claudine ----- Original Message ---- > From: Kimiko Small <sstormwa...@yahoo.com> > To: Historical Costume <h-cost...@indra.com> > Sent: Sun, October 17, 2010 10:07:36 PM > Subject: [h-cost] Hooks & bars problem > > Hi all, > > This is more of a how-to do sewing technique question, but it does apply to > historical clothing. > > I made up a new silk damask early 16th c. gown, which came out wonderfully > for > > the most part, except for one major problem. The gown was closed down the >center > > front with hooks & bars, as it was the only way I could think of to close > the > center front, doing an overlap. I don't use hooks & bars, or eyes, very > often > for a stressed situation. I usually lace closures shut. Usually I use hooks > & > bars or threadbars on small cuffs or to close a skirt closed where it > doesn't > show, and/or the item isn't under stress. > > Well, these were a little stressed, although I made the outer kirtle at > least >an > > inch bigger than the supporting petticoat (which was fully laced shut), and >then > > redid the seams to make it even a bit looser. But the outer fabric pulled > back > > and the hooks could be seen down the middle of the bodice front. It was not >very > > attractive and made me feel uncomfortable wearing it. > > How do I prevent this from happening again? Does anyone have a good book or >site > > or something that will help me? I'd love to improve on this so I don't feel > so > > self conscious about what I am wearing. > > Thanks in advance. > > Kimiko Small > http://www.kimiko1.com > "Be the change you want to see in the world." ~ Ghandi > > > The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern > http://www.margospatterns.com/ > > > > _______________________________________________ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
