On 3/20/2011 2:39 PM, Tim Øsleby wrote:
The combo seems to front focus a lot in the studio. In fluorescent
it is hit and miss. Improves in halogen light, but I can't really
trust it. It seem to do ok in daylight. I'm assuming that in house
AF-adjustments is not the way to go. That it will be useless outdoor
if I corrects it for indoor light. Am I right about this?
FA* 85 is mostly spot on. So I'm blaming the DA* 16-50.
What do you think guys? Should I use the situation as an excuse for
an enablement?
My eyes are not up to critical manual focus indoor. Should I look
for another lens to use in the studio? Tamron 28-75/2,8 could be the
lens I need. Also musing at 35mm 2,8 Ltd, but I end up regretting
not buying a faster 35mm.
Tim, I am thinking these thoughts:
* Why don't you get yourself a magnifying eye cap and a split screen
focusing screen? It is going to be way less than buying a new camera.
Provided you're happy with what your K20D produces when you and it hit
it together.
* May be you could simply bring/send the camera and the lens to local
Pentax repair center for calibration? By "local" I mean mostly
"European" as my understanding is that the guys in Oslo don't do gear
repair like they used to several years ago. I may be off the mark here,
but you and Jostein would know better, of course.
* I would recommend against Tamron 28-75/2.8. Well, let me soften it a
bit - I wouldn't recommend for it. I've a friend who uses it on Canon
50D and gets excellent results. But he is very masterful in post. I find
that Tamron 28-75 is more prone to nervous OOF rendering than Sigma
24-60/2.8 that has become my zoom lens of choice as of recently. I
cannot possibly know if it at all makes sense to suggest that you use
primes instead of zooms in your studio, given that you practically
control everything.
Boris
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