Cool, board level repairs. Next you'll be scraping the Bayer mosaic filters off 
your DSLR sensor to build a Pentax Monochrom ... ;-)

G

On Sep 15, 2013, at 8:01 AM, Brendan MacRae <bpmac...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Well, I thought I'd post this here in case anyone needs to know one
> way to fix a dead hard drive.
> 
> We had a hellacious thunderstorm come through a couple of weeks ago
> and with it the requisite amount of earth shaking thunder and
> lightning. I had my Dell desktop PC on at the time and we had a power
> spike followed by a brief black out. When the power came back on the
> computer appeared just fine (it is plugged into a surge protector
> which did not trip). A couple of days later after a few start ups I
> heard the clicking sound of death from my primary HD. It still managed
> to boot and the clicking went away so I ran a defrag and disk clean
> and it appeared that the drive was working perfectly.
> 
> Two boots later, nothing. Clicking returned and BIOS wouldn't
> recognize the drive.
> 
> Since this drive is partly backed up and doesn't contain anything
> mission critical I decided I would attempt to fix it myself. After
> searching the net for all kinds of advice (including some really bad
> ideas about heating and freezing the drive) I opted to swap the PCB
> board from a like drive and give that a go. $17 drive off eBay arrived
> and I swapped boards. Clicking stopped, drive spun, but unfortunately
> it still wasn't recognized in the BIOS. Bummer.
> 
> I got a low-cost external drive enclosure so that I could more easily
> test the unit on another Dell laptop. And after many fruitless and
> frustrating attempts to get the computer to see the hard drive I
> finally found a site that explained that the 8-pin ROM chip from the
> failed drive's PCB needs to be swapped to the good donor board on some
> drives. Ok, this isn't the easiest thing to do correctly by a shade
> tree mechanic like me, but I gave it a go. You cannot use a soldering
> iron, you have to heat the chip contacts with a heat gun and remove
> the chip with tweezers. It's not easy and my first attempt failed to
> secure the contacts on one side of the chip. Luckily, and
> miraculously, a second attempt with the heat gun (modified with a
> snout made from aluminum foil making a narrow tip) secured the
> contacts when I applied light pressure to the top of the chip. Drive
> came back to life on next attempt to connect via USB. Proceeded to
> quickly copy any and all needed files.
> 
> After all this, the rest of the weekend is pure gravy. <note to self:
> back up ALL of your drives, dummy>
> 
> Figured I'd post this since there are innumerable sites referencing
> the control board swap but few mention the ROM swap needed for some
> drives. For reference this is an 3.5" IDE 160GB WD Caviar from about
> 2006.
> 
> -Brendan
> 


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