I use the Testors gold model paint to touch up lines on Edison Cylinders and
have used it in combination with water colors and a final coat of shellac to
restore damaged Edison banners.

Ron L

-----Original Message-----
From: Phono-L [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] On Behalf Of Rich via
Phono-L
Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2019 7:56 PM
To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
Cc: Rich
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Credenza X and VE8-12X coming along!

Testors Airplane Dope is a liquid and not airplane glue. It is basically 
a lacquer and it dries rock hard and also shrinks so no brush marks and 
ripples. Testors also supplies a thinner for it.

On 1/13/19 6:47 PM, Robert Wright via Phono-L wrote:
> What would you use to thin airplane glue? Any normal paint thinner?
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Phono-L <phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org> on behalf of Rich via 
> Phono-L <phono-l@oldcrank.org>
> *Sent:* Sunday, January 13, 2019 5:51:58 PM
> *To:* phono-l@oldcrank.org
> *Cc:* Rich
> *Subject:* Re: [Phono-L] Credenza X and VE8-12X coming along!
> No, that is cabinet finish. Gold plating was usually coated with thinned
> cellulose lacquer. Fingernail polish also contains oil so it is a bit
> soft and true cellulose lacquer is rather tough to come by bet bet is
> Testors thinned clear airplane dope from you local hobby shop.
> 
> On 1/13/19 2:44 PM, Ron L'Herault via Phono-L wrote:
>> And that would have been applied to metal finished parts?
>> 
>> Ron L
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Phono-L [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] On Behalf Of Rich via
>> Phono-L
>> Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2019 6:39 PM
>> To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
>> Cc: Rich
>> Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Credenza X and VE8-12X coming along!
>> 
>> I previously answered your finish question in an earlier post.
>> 
>> The closest thing to what was used OEM is Behlen Violin Varnish, can be
>> difficult to find but it works well. The base coats were plain shellac
>> followed by a top coat of the Violin Varnish.
>> 
>> The term VARNISH does not describe a specific product or finishing
>> technique. It is used as a generic term to describe a finishing material
>> that contains some type of oil. In many cases it will be a non-drying
>> type of finish that has a elastic like consistency.
>> 
>> --Rich
>> 
>> On 1/11/19 3:39 PM, Robert Wright via Phono-L wrote:
>>> Thanks (again) Ron! I ended up using dish soap and a toothbrush to get
>>> most of it removed, but I'll try the WD-40 method. My main concern was
>>> that the arms that move with the tonearm didn't move easily at all, but
>>> I think the hot water I was using melted away a good bit of the gunk
>>> that was making it so stiff. After a thorough drying, I oiled all the
>>> moving parts with 3-in-one, then rubbed an oily paper towel over all of
>>> it to guard against any kind of moisture left over.
>>>
>>> Anyone know about the factory varnish situation? I know it's probably a
>>> bit involved, but what am I (considering) getting into, exactly?
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Robert
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Jan 11, 2019, at 9:11 AM, Ron L'Herault via Phono-L
>>> <phono-l@oldcrank.org <mailto:phono-l@oldcrank.org>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> You only need to remove old oil from the joints and hand crud from the
>>>> finish.   I’d use (have used) WD040 and a toothbrush to clean the
>>>> mechanism and spray cleaner like Fantastic to clean the gold.  Do not
>>>> use polish.  Relubricate moving parts with light oil.  Put oil on the
>>>> pad to avoid squeal.
>>>> Ron
>>>
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