I definitely didn't see any of that the first time around! Wow, this really 
gives me something to work with, thank you! I'll try a couple spare pieces of 
wood for practice. Thanks, Rich! And thank you for sending it again!

Robert



On Jan 13, 2019, at 8:20 AM, Rich via Phono-L <phono-l@oldcrank.org> wrote:

> That is why I resent the info. E-mail is an unreliable communications medium 
> at best.
> 
> Generally speaking the base coats are highly thinned filtered buglac which is 
> the basic shellac that once dissolved has to set for 2-3 days for the wax and 
> bug parts to settle out. This has a rich red-amber color and it then thinned 
> to the consistency of water, use a high dollar professional watercolor brush 
> only for best results. Apply enough coats of shellac to almost fill the 
> blemish and then use the violin varnish for the top coat. Use rottenstone and 
> hard felt pad with paraffin oil to clean up the edges once varnish has dried. 
> Using Behlen Behcol thinner is highly recommended, do not use cheap methanol 
> as a substitute. If Behcol thinner is not obtainable then use Everclear from 
> liquor store. This sounds complex but it actually goes very fast and easy 
> once you collect all the materials. Google can find the Behlen products.
> https://www.shellac.net/ <-buglac source & Behlen products
> 
> --Rich
> 
> On 1/13/19 5:17 AM, Robert Wright via Phono-L wrote:
>> I'm sure you may have, but I never saw it. Either way I appreciate the info.
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> *From:* Phono-L <phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org> on behalf of Rich via Phono-L 
>> <phono-l@oldcrank.org>
>> *Sent:* Saturday, January 12, 2019 5:39:10 PM
>> *To:* phono-l@oldcrank.org
>> *Cc:* Rich
>> *Subject:* Re: [Phono-L] Credenza X and VE8-12X coming along!
>> I previously answered your finish question in an earlier post.
>> The closest thing to what was used OEM is Behlen Violin Varnish, can be
>> difficult to find but it works well. The base coats were plain shellac
>> followed by a top coat of the Violin Varnish.
>> The term VARNISH does not describe a specific product or finishing
>> technique. It is used as a generic term to describe a finishing material
>> that contains some type of oil. In many cases it will be a non-drying
>> type of finish that has a elastic like consistency.
>> --Rich
>> On 1/11/19 3:39 PM, Robert Wright via Phono-L wrote:
>>> Thanks (again) Ron! I ended up using dish soap and a toothbrush to get most 
>>> of it removed, but I'll try the WD-40 method. My main concern was that the 
>>> arms that move with the tonearm didn't move easily at all, but I think the 
>>> hot water I was using melted away a good bit of the gunk that was making it 
>>> so stiff. After a thorough drying, I oiled all the moving parts with 
>>> 3-in-one, then rubbed an oily paper towel over all of it to guard against 
>>> any kind of moisture left over.
>>> Anyone know about the factory varnish situation? I know it's probably a bit 
>>> involved, but what am I (considering) getting into, exactly?
>>> Thanks,
>>> Robert
>>> On Jan 11, 2019, at 9:11 AM, Ron L'Herault via Phono-L 
>>> <phono-l@oldcrank.org <mailto:phono-l@oldcrank.org>> wrote:
>>>> You only need to remove old oil from the joints and hand crud from the 
>>>> finish.   I’d use (have used) WD040 and a toothbrush to clean the 
>>>> mechanism and spray cleaner like Fantastic to clean the gold.  Do not use 
>>>> polish.  Relubricate moving parts with light oil.  Put oil on the pad to 
>>>> avoid squeal.
>>>> Ron
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