Bill,
You might recall that several of us here in the Houston Club went to a
chain drive to replace that ribbed belt. It resulted in a much improved
drive, but like lots of drilled plastic on metal shafts--if you make it
tight it might split or if you make it snug, it's likely to slip. So
the choice was slip or split! I ran mine for several years that way.
So for round three, I chose to go to the SHS F unit trucks and some
Overland motors (via ebay). They are in a state of--"when I get to it"
right now. However mine have very nicely done paint jobs (photo on the
S Sig site) and all the required lights. I replaced my handrails early
on as well as adding winterization hatches, different horns and a few
other long forgotten items. I think your drive method might have been
simpler as I have to cut into the brass floor and fasten some custom
made bolsters when the time comes. However, I have chosen that method
and I lack the extra drives from Overland. Maybe we can get together
and have a NMRA/NASG authorized pulling contest!
I'll mention two things about the original models--first off I think
they were the only Japanese produced brass models in S since the J&L
tank car and they pulled very well.
Bob Werre
PhotoTraxx
It might not look much different than the other day but it really is.
I scrounged some usable driveshafts. The original "bolsters" are just
bent sheet metal. It is too thin as well so the sideframes were free
to wander. I soldered a piece of channel across the width to stiffen
it up. The axles don't just pop put of the sideframes now. I changed
the body bushing from nylon to a brass bushing soldered on to the
floor. At the same time I converted it to 3MM O Scale truck screws and
a chunky spring.
This drive conversion from the rubber band wonder to conventional was
stupid simple. I wished I "saw" it earlier. Just clipped to
transformer power it is pretty quiet too. With the stiffer bolster the
wheels can get close to the sideframes so there is probably a massive
short. I have to address that somehow. All wheels are set to insulated
on the same side. I have to make some wipers for the insulated wheels.
The handrails are taking a real beating here. They are likely to get
removed shortly to get redone with new castings and phosphor bronze
wire. So much for a simple completion! I wished the floor was separate
from the drive like on Overland diesels.
If anyone should happen to have a spare fuel tank from the Sunset GP7
or GP9 I am interested. This unit has a rather shortened tank. I would
not mind having a spare. After shortening it I want to float it in
cold water and fill it with lead to make a chunky weight. Never tried
it. It could be a hoot.
A few more hours fiddling then it is going back in the box for another
day. Gotta start on other things....
Thank You,
Bill Lane
Modeling the Mighty Pennsy & PRSL in 1957 in S Scale since 1987
See my finished models at:
http://www.lanestrains.com <http://www.lanestrains.com/>
Look at what has been made in PRR in S Scale!
See my layout progress at:
http://www.lanestrains.com/My_Layout.htm
Custom Train Parts Design
http://www.lanestrains.com/SolidWorks_Modeling.htm
PRR Builders Photos Bought, Sold & Traded
(Trading is MUCH preferred)
http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRphotos.xls
***Join the PRR T&HS***
The other members are not ALL like me!
http://www.prrths.com <http://www.prrths.com/>
http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRTHS_Application.pdf
Join the Pennsylvania Reading Seashore Lines Historical Society
It's FREE to join! http://www.prslhs.com <http://www.prslhs.com/>
Preserving The Memory Of The PRSL
