Very true; there is a reason for the low-temp alloys like Cerrobend, etc.They 
can be poured into the cavity without adversely affecting the solder joints.  
Granted they are more expensive than lead, but what price do you put on your 
vision and exposed skin?

Jace Kahn

General Manager 
Ceres & Canisteo RR Co./Champlain County Traction Co.





To: S-Scale@yahoogroups.com
From: wj...@aol.com
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2013 19:26:57 -0400
Subject: Re: {S-Scale List} GP7 - Its alive - sort of








        












Bill
Keep the cold water in a room separate from the hot lead. Will NOT mix well
Jim Lyle 

Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 26, 2013, at 4:58 PM, Bob Werre <b...@phototraxx.com> wrote:








        


  
    
    
  
  






    Bill,

    

    You might recall that several of us here in the Houston Club went to
    a chain drive to replace that ribbed belt.  It resulted in a much
    improved drive, but like lots of drilled plastic on metal shafts--if
    you make it tight it might split or if you make it snug, it's likely
    to slip.  So the choice was slip or split!  I ran mine for several
    years that way.

    

    So for round three, I chose to go to the SHS F unit trucks and some
    Overland motors (via ebay).  They are in a state of--"when I get to
    it" right now.  However mine have very nicely done paint jobs (photo
    on the S Sig site) and all the required lights.  I replaced my
    handrails early on as well as adding winterization hatches,
    different horns and a few other long forgotten items.  I think your
    drive method might have been simpler as I have to cut into the brass
    floor and fasten some custom made bolsters when the time comes. 
    However, I have chosen that method and I lack the extra drives from
    Overland.  Maybe we can get together and have a NMRA/NASG authorized
    pulling contest!

    

    I'll mention two things about the original models--first off I think
    they were the only Japanese produced brass models in S since the
    J&L tank car and they pulled very well.

    

    Bob Werre

    PhotoTraxx  

    

     
    
      
        
          
            
              It might
                  not look much different than the other day but it
                  really is. I scrounged some usable driveshafts. The
                  original “bolsters” are just bent sheet metal. It is
                  too thin as well so the sideframes were free to
                  wander. I soldered a piece of channel across the width
                  to stiffen it up. The axles don’t just pop put of the
                  sideframes now. I changed the body bushing from nylon
                  to a brass bushing soldered on to the floor. At the
                  same time I converted it to 3MM O Scale truck screws
                  and a chunky spring.
               
              This
                  drive conversion from the rubber band wonder to
                  conventional was stupid simple. I wished I “saw” it
                  earlier. Just clipped to transformer power it is
                  pretty quiet too. With the stiffer bolster the wheels
                  can get close to the sideframes so there is probably a
                  massive short. I have to address that somehow. All
                  wheels are set to insulated on the same side. I have
                  to make some wipers for the insulated wheels.
               
              The
                  handrails are taking a real beating here. They are
                  likely to get removed shortly to get redone with new
                  castings and phosphor bronze wire. So much for a
                  simple completion! I wished the floor was separate
                  from the drive like on Overland diesels.
               
              If anyone
                  should happen to have a spare fuel tank from the
                  Sunset GP7 or GP9 I am interested. This unit has a
                  rather shortened tank. I would not mind having a
                  spare. After shortening it I want to float it in cold
                  water and fill it with lead to make a chunky weight.
                  Never tried it. It could be a hoot.
               
              A few
                  more hours fiddling then it is going back in the box
                  for another day. Gotta start on other things….
               
              Thank
                  You,

                  Bill Lane

                  

                  Modeling the Mighty Pennsy & PRSL in 1957 in S
                  Scale since 1987

                  

                  See my finished models at:

                  http://www.lanestrains.com

                  Look at what has been made in PRR in S Scale!
               
              See my
                  layout progress at:
              http://www.lanestrains.com/My_Layout.htm

                  

                  Custom Train Parts Design

                  http://www.lanestrains.com/SolidWorks_Modeling.htm

                  

                  PRR Builders Photos Bought, Sold & Traded

                  (Trading is MUCH preferred)

                  http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRphotos.xls 

                  

                  ***Join the PRR T&HS***

                  The other members are not ALL like me!

                  http://www.prrths.com

                  http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRTHS_Application.pdf

                  

                  Join the Pennsylvania Reading Seashore Lines
                  Historical Society

                  It's FREE to join! http://www.prslhs.com 

                  Preserving The Memory Of The PRSL
               
            
          
          
      
      
    
    

  


















    
    






                                          

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