Another other option from the February 1993 issue of that NASG Dispatch. Not as elegant as Bill's, bit you don't need a lathe either. It's worked for my Pacific's ever since...
http://www.riverraisinmodels.com/libraryData/improvebrass.pdf Enjoy.... Jim ----- Original Message ----- From: shabbona_rr To: S-Scale@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, September 28, 2013 5:03 PM Subject: {S-Scale List} Re: Driveshafts slip no more Excellent solution, Bill! I have done things like this in the past to eliminate drive shaft slippage, most notably in my ALCO models RS-2. Another technique I have used is to drill out a driveshaft socket for a press fit a 1/16" styrene strip, then drill out the strip for a press fit on the motor shaft. Not quite the skill and finesse you exhibit with your work, but satisfactory in situations where the extreme stresses you mention are not present. boB Nicholson ______________________________________________________ --- In S-Scale@yahoogroups.com, "Bill Lane" <bill@...> wrote: > > If you have Overland locos you have encountered the pesky plastic > driveshafts slipping on the motor and tower shafts. I wanted to make them > bulletproof. > > > > The fix is pretty straightforward but is pretty time consuming. Doing this > fix on a center tower diesel means making 6 of them! I have been doing this > fix for many years now but a more powerful lathe purchase this past spring > made it easier. I can drill much larger holes with one pass. Previous > incarnations was soldering 0-80 nuts to a thin brass tube. I could not put > much pressure on the screws before it failed. > > > > I now start with 5/16 solid round brass stock and drill to a snug fit on the > original plastic Overland parts and tap 2) 0-80 holes directly opposite of > each other. As you can see the remaining material is pretty thick. You can > really crank the screws with a lot of pressure on the shafts. I have at > times cut flat spots on the motor & tower shafts. > > > > The is an S Scale USRA pacific. > http://www.lanestrains.com/Driveshaft_Fix.jpg > > > > Every time I do this I think there has to be an easier way by making > something in Solidworks and getting the parts cast in brass. The solution > has not hit me yet. I know if all parts were brass it would be noisy. > > > > Thank You, > Bill Lane > > Modeling the Mighty Pennsy & PRSL in 1957 in S Scale since 1987 > > See my finished models at: > <http://www.lanestrains.com/> http://www.lanestrains.com > Look at what has been made in PRR in S Scale! > > > > See my layout progress at: > > <http://www.lanestrains.com/My_Layout.htm> > http://www.lanestrains.com/My_Layout.htm > > Custom Train Parts Design > <http://www.lanestrains.com/SolidWorks_Modeling.htm> > http://www.lanestrains.com/SolidWorks_Modeling.htm > > PRR Builders Photos Bought, Sold & Traded > (Trading is MUCH preferred) > <http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRphotos.xls> > http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRphotos.xls > > ***Join the PRR T&HS*** > The other members are not ALL like me! > <http://www.prrths.com/> http://www.prrths.com > <http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRTHS_Application.pdf> > http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRTHS_Application.pdf > > Join the Pennsylvania Reading Seashore Lines Historical Society > It's FREE to join! <http://www.prslhs.com/> http://www.prslhs.com > Preserving The Memory Of The PRSL >
