RE: [BlindHandyMan] advice putting up a fence
Hi, In many areas the various utility companies have a service which will come to your home and mark all underground utilities such as electric, gas, cable and phone. It does not cost and, in some areas, if you do *NOT* ask for this service and hit a utility you will pay and pay and pay. I have used welded wire many times and it works just fine. Just be sure that the grid is small enough to keep your smaller pets inside. To insure that you have a nice square line from your home don't forget and the formula A square + B square = C square. (I have no idea where the square sign is) That is leg A might be 3 feet, leg B might be 4 feet and the distance between A and B will be 5 feet. You can double these distances and the formula will still be absolutely correct. (6 feet, 8 feet and 10 feet - 36+64=100) It sure is handier than trying to get a line of sight (particularly when you have no sight - LOL) Cy, The Anasazi From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dale Leavens Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 2010 6:06 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] advice putting up a fence I don't think I know what welded wire is, I do have some experience with chain link though. If you are sinking your posts more than about a foot you would be well advised to have the utilities checked. Usually the gas, water and electricity, phone and cable will make a pretty straight line from the street or lane to the meters or house locations but you cannot be certain. When I lived in Chatham the telephone people came with one of those earth cutting chainsaw like devices and cut a line along the side of my house and across the back yard diagonally to supply a neighbour who's house backed onto one corner of my property. I never would have guessed there would have been a line there, I don't know how deep it went. Up here they don't charge to mark out the utilities, they spray paint to show where the utilities lay. My fence is a 6 foot one but the posts aren't a lot taller. I bored 4 foot holes and filled them with cement and embedded the posts into them. It is about 18 years and the fence stands straight still. At the same time my neighbour had one installed, they dug the holes with a power auger, set in wood 4 by 4 posts. It has been leaning for several years now and was pulled down this spring. We have to worry about frost getting down and shifting things up here though. A lot of people now are driving those stakes into the ground with the steel frames to grab wood posts and they work well enough but they do move. One neighbour behind me had a couple of sections of his pushed down by a drunk one night a couple of years ago the stakes broke off or bent but they were fairly easily replaced and the fence again erected. I don't know of any really good way of sinking steel posts reliably into the ground and keeping them even height without mounting them into something like cement. you would need to get them pretty deep I would think if they are to remain secure. What I did was to drive stakes into the ground at the corners then loop a good strong string, masonry string is excellent for the purpose around the posts so that there are two parallel strings between which I could mark and dig my holes. This also allowed me to determine the height since the ground isn't nice and level but you probably want the top of the fence to be level for appearance. You can then decide on height and I marked each steel post with tape at the desired height so I would know exactly how deep to sink them. Hope this gives you some useful ideas. Dale Leavens. - Original Message - From: Kevin Doucet To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 2010 4:25 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] advice putting up a fence Hi group, I am looking in to getting a dog. This dog will be for in doors but I want a fenced area for the pet to run and for us to play out in the air. I have an area walled up on two sides, one side the house brick wall and the other side a wood wall of a room addition. I am thinking about having the gate on the wooden wall running along the same plane as the wall, then running the fence at a ninety degree angle to the gate, perpendicular to the brick wall and joining an end fence running perpendicular to the wood wall of the room addition and boxing off the end joining the brick wall to the other ninety degree fence. This will give about a 25 by 50 foot area. As this will not be a big dog, not more than about 30 LBS. this should be enough area, don't you agree? I looked at some mettle fencing, I think it was called welded wire, which looks like it would do the job nicely. Also looked at some mettle fence posts and some wire clamps to attach the fence to the posts. I also have an idea of what to get for the gate and it's fasteners. Now, my concerns are what is involved in
Re: [BlindHandyMan] advice putting up a fence
Kevin, I don't know where in the country you are, but many states have a service called one call. You need to call them and they will take care of sending someone out to mark any buried utilities. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
RE: [BlindHandyMan] advice putting up a fence
here is the site http://www.diggershotline.com/ Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dan Rossi Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2010 8:16 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] advice putting up a fence Kevin, I don't know where in the country you are, but many states have a service called one call. You need to call them and they will take care of sending someone out to mark any buried utilities. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] water filter and advice wanted
We are looking at new refrigerators as well. Hour's is making sounds I don't like and the unit is 24 years old as is. It came with the house so it wasn't the best model in the line to start with. I've gone around and around in my mind over the ice maker question. On one hand it would be nice to always have ice and cold water. On the other hand, a 2 quart bottle of filtered water for coffee making works just as well. I have found out that cold water makes better tasting coffee. I've finally decided to skip the ice maker and have more freezer space for food. We don't use all that much ice and so the occasional 8 pound bag from the corner store works for me. I went the same rounds several years back over a water filter. Although the smell of a swimming pool comes out the city water tap, there is no evidence to suggest it's harmful to drink. That leaves a matter of personal preference. I certainly don't want my coffee smelling like the pool. I don't care if I shower in it but I don't want to drink it. So. I looked at hole house systems. Now your talking money. The filters for such systems cost in the hundred dollar range and upward. As I've said, I don't care if I shower or wash my hair with the stuff, I'm just not going to drink it. We wound up buying a Pure Ultimate water filter which attaches to a kitchen faucet. Flip the lever up for filtered water or down for city water. The filter turns off when it's time to change out the filter cartridge. I buy those at Costco and there are 6 filters in the box for $50. If you buy them 1 at a time, they go for $17 each or about 102 bucks so that's why we do Costco. Just because you have an ice maker doesn't mean you have to use it. That brings me around to another topic I'd like to ask about. I like the new gas stoves with the caste-iron grates and a big center burner. A great place for that huge pot everybody seems to have. The problem is the buttons and controls. The gas knobs are returning to the front of the stove but the oven is a touch plate and appears to be totally useless for the blind. I'd like to hear about your experiences if you've bought a new gas stove in the past year or so. Alan Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/ There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly! The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still available upon request. - Original Message - From: Lenny McHugh lmch...@verizon.net To: bhm blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 2010 7:30 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] water filter I am thinking about installing a water filter. Although we are on municipal water it sometimes is not clear and often has a strong chlorine smell. The new refrigerator that will be delivered tomorrow has a water filter installed. I have been thinking about placing one in the basement under the kitchen sink area. then run the lines to the cold water and for the ice maker. Any suggestions on what kind to install. Doing a search there is only about 3 million hits to read. I called some big box stores and they have no real great suggestions. They have sediment filters starting for $35 and on the net I found systems for several thousand dollars. --- Please visit my home page, it is motivational, educational, inspirational with a touch of humor. There is also a very extensive resource list for the blind. http://www.LennyMcHugh.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
Re: [BlindHandyMan] water filter
Why not get a whole house filter. I have callegan filters. About $25 at Sears. Easy to install, just cut the pipe and use two 3/4 inch adapters. The reason I like the calegan filter is the air and shut off valve on the filter. - Original Message - From: Lenny McHugh To: bhm Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 2010 10:30 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] water filter I am thinking about installing a water filter. Although we are on municipal water it sometimes is not clear and often has a strong chlorine smell. The new refrigerator that will be delivered tomorrow has a water filter installed. I have been thinking about placing one in the basement under the kitchen sink area. then run the lines to the cold water and for the ice maker. Any suggestions on what kind to install. Doing a search there is only about 3 million hits to read. I called some big box stores and they have no real great suggestions. They have sediment filters starting for $35 and on the net I found systems for several thousand dollars. --- Please visit my home page, it is motivational, educational, inspirational with a touch of humor. There is also a very extensive resource list for the blind. http://www.LennyMcHugh.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] water filter and advice wanted
Hi Alan, I have purchased at least one of those gas stoves with the buttons for the oven controls. My wife took the stick on bubbles to mark the important buttons (buttons? Rather the space where you need to press) and it worked out quite nice. Most gas stoves are set so the oven comes on at 350F when you start and pressing the up or down button raises or lowers the temp by 5F. I also like the cast iron grates for the pots. On the electric stoves that fifth burner is only for holding something as it does not get hot enough to really cook anything. One thought, if your area is subject to frequent power outages the electronic ignition is not all that great an idea. If there is no electricity you have no oven - unless - you have an inverter which you can plug your stove into then you could have enough electricity to light the oven. When we had the great ice storm in Tulsa, Oklahoma in 2007 I sure wish I have been able to use the oven because it was blamed cold for the two weeks we had no power. Cy, The Anasazi From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Alan Paganelli Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2010 7:33 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] water filter and advice wanted We are looking at new refrigerators as well. Hour's is making sounds I don't like and the unit is 24 years old as is. It came with the house so it wasn't the best model in the line to start with. I've gone around and around in my mind over the ice maker question. On one hand it would be nice to always have ice and cold water. On the other hand, a 2 quart bottle of filtered water for coffee making works just as well. I have found out that cold water makes better tasting coffee. I've finally decided to skip the ice maker and have more freezer space for food. We don't use all that much ice and so the occasional 8 pound bag from the corner store works for me. I went the same rounds several years back over a water filter. Although the smell of a swimming pool comes out the city water tap, there is no evidence to suggest it's harmful to drink. That leaves a matter of personal preference. I certainly don't want my coffee smelling like the pool. I don't care if I shower in it but I don't want to drink it. So. I looked at hole house systems. Now your talking money. The filters for such systems cost in the hundred dollar range and upward. As I've said, I don't care if I shower or wash my hair with the stuff, I'm just not going to drink it. We wound up buying a Pure Ultimate water filter which attaches to a kitchen faucet. Flip the lever up for filtered water or down for city water. The filter turns off when it's time to change out the filter cartridge. I buy those at Costco and there are 6 filters in the box for $50. If you buy them 1 at a time, they go for $17 each or about 102 bucks so that's why we do Costco. Just because you have an ice maker doesn't mean you have to use it. That brings me around to another topic I'd like to ask about. I like the new gas stoves with the caste-iron grates and a big center burner. A great place for that huge pot everybody seems to have. The problem is the buttons and controls. The gas knobs are returning to the front of the stove but the oven is a touch plate and appears to be totally useless for the blind. I'd like to hear about your experiences if you've bought a new gas stove in the past year or so. Alan Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/ There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly! The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still available upon request. - Original Message - From: Lenny McHugh lmch...@verizon.net mailto:lmchugh%40verizon.net To: bhm blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 2010 7:30 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] water filter I am thinking about installing a water filter. Although we are on municipal water it sometimes is not clear and often has a strong chlorine smell. The new refrigerator that will be delivered tomorrow has a water filter installed. I have been thinking about placing one in the basement under the kitchen sink area. then run the lines to the cold water and for the ice maker. Any suggestions on what kind to install. Doing a search there is only about 3 million hits to read. I called some big box stores and they have no real great suggestions. They have sediment filters starting for $35 and on the net I found systems for several thousand dollars. --- Please visit my home page, it is motivational, educational, inspirational with a touch of humor. There is also a very extensive resource list for the blind. http://www.LennyMcHugh.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send
Re: [BlindHandyMan] water filter and advice wanted
I read on the AFB accessibility page pretty much the same information concerning the default 350 degree temperature and even 450 is only 10 button pushes away. The stove we saw with the center burner is gas and they make a to do over cooking on the center large pot burner. And, one of the stoves has the hole top of the stove 1 big grate but you could still feel the burner mouths under the grate so you know where to place the pot. I'm not worried about the igniter not working. I'm a long time camper and my stove in the motor home hasn't even got electronic ignition. The way to deal with that is to buy a grill lighter or candle lighter. Basically, their both the same except the grill lighter is a little longer and more out doorsy looking. The candle lighter looks nicer and is smaller to fit women's hands better as the packing on one said. Basically, what they both are is a disposable butane lighter with a long nose. These things remind me of a rifle in that they have a trigger. They are safe as well. You put your index finger on a dial that is spring loaded. You must roll it forward and hold it there wile you squeeze the trigger. Their easy for the blind to use because you can feel where the tip of the lighter will produce flame before you shoot. You turn the gas on, wait a second and fire. The lighter ignites the butaine and your burner ignites. If you haven't got the TV going full blast or the stereo, you can hear the gas light. They only cost a couple of bucks and will last a long time. I've got a portable Coleman 2 burner propane stove that I keep in the storage bin outside in the motor home. It uses the 1 pound propane cylinders. I keep a candle lighter in the bottom of it too. When I set up the stove on a picnic table, and there it is all ready to go. Very handy and you may have to go hunting for it if you've got a candle nut for a wife! She'll love it. Mine sure does. Alan Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/ There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly! The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still available upon request. - Original Message - From: Cy Selfridge cyselfri...@comcast.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2010 6:43 AM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] water filter and advice wanted Hi Alan, I have purchased at least one of those gas stoves with the buttons for the oven controls. My wife took the stick on bubbles to mark the important buttons (buttons? Rather the space where you need to press) and it worked out quite nice. Most gas stoves are set so the oven comes on at 350F when you start and pressing the up or down button raises or lowers the temp by 5F. I also like the cast iron grates for the pots. On the electric stoves that fifth burner is only for holding something as it does not get hot enough to really cook anything. One thought, if your area is subject to frequent power outages the electronic ignition is not all that great an idea. If there is no electricity you have no oven - unless - you have an inverter which you can plug your stove into then you could have enough electricity to light the oven. When we had the great ice storm in Tulsa, Oklahoma in 2007 I sure wish I have been able to use the oven because it was blamed cold for the two weeks we had no power. Cy, The Anasazi From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Alan Paganelli Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2010 7:33 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] water filter and advice wanted We are looking at new refrigerators as well. Hour's is making sounds I don't like and the unit is 24 years old as is. It came with the house so it wasn't the best model in the line to start with. I've gone around and around in my mind over the ice maker question. On one hand it would be nice to always have ice and cold water. On the other hand, a 2 quart bottle of filtered water for coffee making works just as well. I have found out that cold water makes better tasting coffee. I've finally decided to skip the ice maker and have more freezer space for food. We don't use all that much ice and so the occasional 8 pound bag from the corner store works for me. I went the same rounds several years back over a water filter. Although the smell of a swimming pool comes out the city water tap, there is no evidence to suggest it's harmful to drink. That leaves a matter of personal preference. I certainly don't want my coffee smelling like the pool. I don't care if I shower in it but I don't want to drink it. So. I looked at hole house systems. Now your talking money. The filters for such systems cost in the hundred dollar range and upward. As I've said, I don't care if I shower or wash my
RE: [BlindHandyMan] water filter and advice wanted
Alan, I use those candle lighters and they are quite handy. Yup, you occasionally have to go on a search for them if the War Department has used them. (LOLLOL) The Sears stove I had demanded that the stove have electricity in order to use the oven but the stove top sure saved our lives. I used a couple of my very large (5 gallon) pots to hold water and kept it going in order not to freeze to death. I would have used cooking oil but no stores were open to seel it. (LOL) Gads, that was a miserable experience. When I managed to get the home up to a balmy 59 degrees we all celebrated. Cy, The Anasazi From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Alan Paganelli Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2010 8:31 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] water filter and advice wanted I read on the AFB accessibility page pretty much the same information concerning the default 350 degree temperature and even 450 is only 10 button pushes away. The stove we saw with the center burner is gas and they make a to do over cooking on the center large pot burner. And, one of the stoves has the hole top of the stove 1 big grate but you could still feel the burner mouths under the grate so you know where to place the pot. I'm not worried about the igniter not working. I'm a long time camper and my stove in the motor home hasn't even got electronic ignition. The way to deal with that is to buy a grill lighter or candle lighter. Basically, their both the same except the grill lighter is a little longer and more out doorsy looking. The candle lighter looks nicer and is smaller to fit women's hands better as the packing on one said. Basically, what they both are is a disposable butane lighter with a long nose. These things remind me of a rifle in that they have a trigger. They are safe as well. You put your index finger on a dial that is spring loaded. You must roll it forward and hold it there wile you squeeze the trigger. Their easy for the blind to use because you can feel where the tip of the lighter will produce flame before you shoot. You turn the gas on, wait a second and fire. The lighter ignites the butaine and your burner ignites. If you haven't got the TV going full blast or the stereo, you can hear the gas light. They only cost a couple of bucks and will last a long time. I've got a portable Coleman 2 burner propane stove that I keep in the storage bin outside in the motor home. It uses the 1 pound propane cylinders. I keep a candle lighter in the bottom of it too. When I set up the stove on a picnic table, and there it is all ready to go. Very handy and you may have to go hunting for it if you've got a candle nut for a wife! She'll love it. Mine sure does. Alan Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/ There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly! The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still available upon request. - Original Message - From: Cy Selfridge cyselfri...@comcast.net mailto:cyselfridge%40comcast.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2010 6:43 AM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] water filter and advice wanted Hi Alan, I have purchased at least one of those gas stoves with the buttons for the oven controls. My wife took the stick on bubbles to mark the important buttons (buttons? Rather the space where you need to press) and it worked out quite nice. Most gas stoves are set so the oven comes on at 350F when you start and pressing the up or down button raises or lowers the temp by 5F. I also like the cast iron grates for the pots. On the electric stoves that fifth burner is only for holding something as it does not get hot enough to really cook anything. One thought, if your area is subject to frequent power outages the electronic ignition is not all that great an idea. If there is no electricity you have no oven - unless - you have an inverter which you can plug your stove into then you could have enough electricity to light the oven. When we had the great ice storm in Tulsa, Oklahoma in 2007 I sure wish I have been able to use the oven because it was blamed cold for the two weeks we had no power. Cy, The Anasazi From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Alan Paganelli Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2010 7:33 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] water filter and advice wanted We are looking at new refrigerators as well. Hour's is making sounds I don't like and the unit is 24 years old as is. It came with the house so it wasn't the best model in the line to
[BlindHandyMan] new ice box
Well the new refrigerator is installed. It has some nice features but is not at all blind friendly. It has a touch pad display that shows the temp of both the freezer and refrigerator compartments. There are buttons to turn on power cool and the ice maker. I had no choice because it was the only one that I could locate that would fit in the kitchen area. The boss is very happy with it so I am also happy. It is a Samsung and is the only one other than the one at Lowes that would fit. The one at Lowes did not have one good review. I normally do not purchase service agreements but could not pass this one up. With all of the electronics and features I thought it was worth it. For $125 there is a 5 year policy that covers everything even if we break something like a glass shelf. It also covers $250 for food loss. Hope I never need it but nice to know I have it. --- Please visit my home page, it is motivational, educational, inspirational with a touch of humor. There is also a very extensive resource list for the blind. http://www.LennyMcHugh.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] water filter and advice wanted
please change the subject line. moderator -- From: Cy Selfridge cyselfri...@comcast.net Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2010 11:59 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] water filter and advice wanted Alan, I use those candle lighters and they are quite handy. Yup, you occasionally have to go on a search for them if the War Department has used them. (LOLLOL) The Sears stove I had demanded that the stove have electricity in order to use the oven but the stove top sure saved our lives. I used a couple of my very large (5 gallon) pots to hold water and kept it going in order not to freeze to death. I would have used cooking oil but no stores were open to seel it. (LOL) Gads, that was a miserable experience. When I managed to get the home up to a balmy 59 degrees we all celebrated. Cy, The Anasazi From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Alan Paganelli Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2010 8:31 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] water filter and advice wanted I read on the AFB accessibility page pretty much the same information concerning the default 350 degree temperature and even 450 is only 10 button pushes away. The stove we saw with the center burner is gas and they make a to do over cooking on the center large pot burner. And, one of the stoves has the hole top of the stove 1 big grate but you could still feel the burner mouths under the grate so you know where to place the pot. I'm not worried about the igniter not working. I'm a long time camper and my stove in the motor home hasn't even got electronic ignition. The way to deal with that is to buy a grill lighter or candle lighter. Basically, their both the same except the grill lighter is a little longer and more out doorsy looking. The candle lighter looks nicer and is smaller to fit women's hands better as the packing on one said. Basically, what they both are is a disposable butane lighter with a long nose. These things remind me of a rifle in that they have a trigger. They are safe as well. You put your index finger on a dial that is spring loaded. You must roll it forward and hold it there wile you squeeze the trigger. Their easy for the blind to use because you can feel where the tip of the lighter will produce flame before you shoot. You turn the gas on, wait a second and fire. The lighter ignites the butaine and your burner ignites. If you haven't got the TV going full blast or the stereo, you can hear the gas light. They only cost a couple of bucks and will last a long time. I've got a portable Coleman 2 burner propane stove that I keep in the storage bin outside in the motor home. It uses the 1 pound propane cylinders. I keep a candle lighter in the bottom of it too. When I set up the stove on a picnic table, and there it is all ready to go. Very handy and you may have to go hunting for it if you've got a candle nut for a wife! She'll love it. Mine sure does. Alan Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/ There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly! The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still available upon request. - Original Message - From: Cy Selfridge cyselfri...@comcast.net mailto:cyselfridge%40comcast.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2010 6:43 AM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] water filter and advice wanted Hi Alan, I have purchased at least one of those gas stoves with the buttons for the oven controls. My wife took the stick on bubbles to mark the important buttons (buttons? Rather the space where you need to press) and it worked out quite nice. Most gas stoves are set so the oven comes on at 350F when you start and pressing the up or down button raises or lowers the temp by 5F. I also like the cast iron grates for the pots. On the electric stoves that fifth burner is only for holding something as it does not get hot enough to really cook anything. One thought, if your area is subject to frequent power outages the electronic ignition is not all that great an idea. If there is no electricity you have no oven - unless - you have an inverter which you can plug your stove into then you could have enough electricity to light the oven. When we had the great ice storm in Tulsa, Oklahoma in 2007 I sure wish I have been able to use the oven because it was blamed cold for the two weeks we had no power. Cy, The Anasazi From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Alan Paganelli Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2010 7:33 AM
RE: [BlindHandyMan] water filter and advice wanted
okay, sometimes I'm stupid; but how did the 5 gallon pots keep you from freezing? On Thu, 2 Sep 2010, Cy Selfridge wrote: Alan, I use those candle lighters and they are quite handy. Yup, you occasionally have to go on a search for them if the War Department has used them. (LOLLOL) The Sears stove I had demanded that the stove have electricity in order to use the oven but the stove top sure saved our lives. I used a couple of my very large (5 gallon) pots to hold water and kept it going in order not to freeze to death. I would have used cooking oil but no stores were open to seel it. (LOL) Gads, that was a miserable experience. When I managed to get the home up to a balmy 59 degrees we all celebrated. Cy, The Anasazi From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Alan Paganelli Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2010 8:31 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] water filter and advice wanted I read on the AFB accessibility page pretty much the same information concerning the default 350 degree temperature and even 450 is only 10 button pushes away. The stove we saw with the center burner is gas and they make a to do over cooking on the center large pot burner. And, one of the stoves has the hole top of the stove 1 big grate but you could still feel the burner mouths under the grate so you know where to place the pot. I'm not worried about the igniter not working. I'm a long time camper and my stove in the motor home hasn't even got electronic ignition. The way to deal with that is to buy a grill lighter or candle lighter. Basically, their both the same except the grill lighter is a little longer and more out doorsy looking. The candle lighter looks nicer and is smaller to fit women's hands better as the packing on one said. Basically, what they both are is a disposable butane lighter with a long nose. These things remind me of a rifle in that they have a trigger. They are safe as well. You put your index finger on a dial that is spring loaded. You must roll it forward and hold it there wile you squeeze the trigger. Their easy for the blind to use because you can feel where the tip of the lighter will produce flame before you shoot. You turn the gas on, wait a second and fire. The lighter ignites the butaine and your burner ignites. If you haven't got the TV going full blast or the stereo, you can hear the gas light. They only cost a couple of bucks and will last a long time. I've got a portable Coleman 2 burner propane stove that I keep in the storage bin outside in the motor home. It uses the 1 pound propane cylinders. I keep a candle lighter in the bottom of it too. When I set up the stove on a picnic table, and there it is all ready to go. Very handy and you may have to go hunting for it if you've got a candle nut for a wife! She'll love it. Mine sure does. Alan Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/ There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly! The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still available upon request. - Original Message - From: Cy Selfridge cyselfri...@comcast.net mailto:cyselfridge%40comcast.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2010 6:43 AM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] water filter and advice wanted Hi Alan, I have purchased at least one of those gas stoves with the buttons for the oven controls. My wife took the stick on bubbles to mark the important buttons (buttons? Rather the space where you need to press) and it worked out quite nice. Most gas stoves are set so the oven comes on at 350F when you start and pressing the up or down button raises or lowers the temp by 5F. I also like the cast iron grates for the pots. On the electric stoves that fifth burner is only for holding something as it does not get hot enough to really cook anything. One thought, if your area is subject to frequent power outages the electronic ignition is not all that great an idea. If there is no electricity you have no oven - unless - you have an inverter which you can plug your stove into then you could have enough electricity to light the oven. When we had the great ice storm in Tulsa, Oklahoma in 2007 I sure wish I have been able to use the oven because it was blamed cold for the two weeks we had no power. Cy, The Anasazi From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Alan Paganelli Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2010 7:33 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] water filter and advice wanted We are looking at new
Re: [BlindHandyMan] advice putting up a fence
Hi Mike, First welcome to the list. Thanks to you and others who have pointed me to checking for under ground utility concerns. I called and have it scheduled to be marked. At 05:29 PM 9/1/2010, you wrote: Hi, I am somewhat of a newbie to this list, but hello to all. Yes, it would be advisable to check out the risk of punturing an electrical or water cable/pipe. If the metal posts are not too big, a crowbar is a good item to make it easier to get the posts into the ground. Crowbar is the term used in the UK, it is a long metal bar, about 4 foot long with a pointed end at one end and a flat end at the other. After making a hole with the bar, pour some water into the hole. It makes it a lot easier to hammer in a post; this is also true of wooden posts. Some dogs are bad at digging and I have seen some of them dig beneath the fence; so depending on the type of ground, whether it is concrete paved, tar or asphalt, or soil will deternine if you may need to sink the wire into the ground several inches. Hope this helps to start with. Take care, Mike - Original Message - From: Kevin Doucet To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 2010 9:25 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] advice putting up a fence Hi group, I am looking in to getting a dog. This dog will be for in doors but I want a fenced area for the pet to run and for us to play out in the air. I have an area walled up on two sides, one side the house brick wall and the other side a wood wall of a room addition. I am thinking about having the gate on the wooden wall running along the same plane as the wall, then running the fence at a ninety degree angle to the gate, perpendicular to the brick wall and joining an end fence running perpendicular to the wood wall of the room addition and boxing off the end joining the brick wall to the other ninety degree fence. This will give about a 25 by 50 foot area. As this will not be a big dog, not more than about 30 LBS. this should be enough area, don't you agree? I looked at some mettle fencing, I think it was called welded wire, which looks like it would do the job nicely. Also looked at some mettle fence posts and some wire clamps to attach the fence to the posts. I also have an idea of what to get for the gate and it's fasteners. Now, my concerns are what is involved in putting up the fence? Do I need to have the ground checked by some one to see about water or electrical lines I may puncture with the posts? What tools will I need and what methods do I need to familiarize my self with before starting this project? Thanks for any help you can give. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 3975 (20090330) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.comhttp://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] advice putting up a fence
Thanks for the help with method and tools. I have all the tools I need other than a come-a-long and the pole driver. I have a friend which will lend me his pole driver. Do I need to set the corner posts in concrete? At 06:49 PM 9/1/2010, you wrote: That is a fairly easy job to do. You need to call the utility companies in your area and ask about checking for wires of all sorts, water and gas lines. It's a free service unless you wreck one of the lines. Years ago I was putting up some chain link fencing and was trying to drive in the posts. They are nothing more than light gauge metal pipe. Lowes had a tool that dropped down over the pipe and the top end was closed. There are two handles that come out from the sides of this first piece and you hold them. The posts are driven in the ground by lifting this tool up and slamming it down on the post. It's a right heavy tool but it does a great job at driving posts in the ground. And it doesn't destroy the end of the post. In the event you go with chain link, you might consider a come along as well. Doesn't have to be super powerful because you'd wreck something if you went crazy drawing it up. But a couple tons would lend a hand in stretching the chain link sections. Then you'll have your hands free to connect the nuts and bolts. A thirty pound dog won't require the posts be set in concrete other than possibly the posts at the gate. Any sales rep can show you what you need to know about assembly right in the store. Probably going to need a couple half inch or 9/16 wrenches for the nuts and bolts, I recommend the come along, a level that's really about it. Everything else is probably not going to be necessary. However, I'm pretty sure it's against some rule to buy the minimum in tools. I know I'd be ashamed if I did such a terrible deed. So having said that... You probably need a socket set and a set of combination wrenches to put the different parts of the fence together. I'd go for a power auger to set the posts and a small cement mixer to mix the concrete you will use to set the posts. You might want a laser level and an audible level as well because you can't always be sure one is 100% accurate. Good to have an extra to compare with. It's possible you'll need some vise grips in case the sockets and wrenches don't do all you need. This should definitely get your fence up and add to the ever growing collection of tools you need to combat life's situations. And the list will be shorter next time you take on another project that calls for tools. - Original Message - From: Kevin Doucet To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 2010 4:25 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] advice putting up a fence Hi group, I am looking in to getting a dog. This dog will be for in doors but I want a fenced area for the pet to run and for us to play out in the air. I have an area walled up on two sides, one side the house brick wall and the other side a wood wall of a room addition. I am thinking about having the gate on the wooden wall running along the same plane as the wall, then running the fence at a ninety degree angle to the gate, perpendicular to the brick wall and joining an end fence running perpendicular to the wood wall of the room addition and boxing off the end joining the brick wall to the other ninety degree fence. This will give about a 25 by 50 foot area. As this will not be a big dog, not more than about 30 LBS. this should be enough area, don't you agree? I looked at some mettle fencing, I think it was called welded wire, which looks like it would do the job nicely. Also looked at some mettle fence posts and some wire clamps to attach the fence to the posts. I also have an idea of what to get for the gate and it's fasteners. Now, my concerns are what is involved in putting up the fence? Do I need to have the ground checked by some one to see about water or electrical lines I may puncture with the posts? What tools will I need and what methods do I need to familiarize my self with before starting this project? Thanks for any help you can give. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 3975 (20090330) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.comhttp://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Fence post driver
Thanks for this info. At 08:19 PM 9/1/2010, you wrote: This is off the Lowes website. I probably did a lousy job of describing it earlier, so here is what it says. 24in Steel Post Driver with Handles Item #: 92079 | Model #: 070653 $25.97 24in Steel Post Driver with Handles a.. Galvanized steel b.. 24 in length c.. Used for driving posts into the ground Maybe I didn't do such a lousy job earlier... [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 3975 (20090330) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.comhttp://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] advice putting up a fence
Depends on how soft the ground is there. if you go deep enough with the post you shouldn't have to use concrete. But saying that, concrete would be a good way to make sure nothing can go wrong. - Original Message - From: Kevin Doucet To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2010 5:14 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] advice putting up a fence Thanks for the help with method and tools. I have all the tools I need other than a come-a-long and the pole driver. I have a friend which will lend me his pole driver. Do I need to set the corner posts in concrete? At 06:49 PM 9/1/2010, you wrote: That is a fairly easy job to do. You need to call the utility companies in your area and ask about checking for wires of all sorts, water and gas lines. It's a free service unless you wreck one of the lines. Years ago I was putting up some chain link fencing and was trying to drive in the posts. They are nothing more than light gauge metal pipe. Lowes had a tool that dropped down over the pipe and the top end was closed. There are two handles that come out from the sides of this first piece and you hold them. The posts are driven in the ground by lifting this tool up and slamming it down on the post. It's a right heavy tool but it does a great job at driving posts in the ground. And it doesn't destroy the end of the post. In the event you go with chain link, you might consider a come along as well. Doesn't have to be super powerful because you'd wreck something if you went crazy drawing it up. But a couple tons would lend a hand in stretching the chain link sections. Then you'll have your hands free to connect the nuts and bolts. A thirty pound dog won't require the posts be set in concrete other than possibly the posts at the gate. Any sales rep can show you what you need to know about assembly right in the store. Probably going to need a couple half inch or 9/16 wrenches for the nuts and bolts, I recommend the come along, a level that's really about it. Everything else is probably not going to be necessary. However, I'm pretty sure it's against some rule to buy the minimum in tools. I know I'd be ashamed if I did such a terrible deed. So having said that... You probably need a socket set and a set of combination wrenches to put the different parts of the fence together. I'd go for a power auger to set the posts and a small cement mixer to mix the concrete you will use to set the posts. You might want a laser level and an audible level as well because you can't always be sure one is 100% accurate. Good to have an extra to compare with. It's possible you'll need some vise grips in case the sockets and wrenches don't do all you need. This should definitely get your fence up and add to the ever growing collection of tools you need to combat life's situations. And the list will be shorter next time you take on another project that calls for tools. - Original Message - From: Kevin Doucet To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 2010 4:25 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] advice putting up a fence Hi group, I am looking in to getting a dog. This dog will be for in doors but I want a fenced area for the pet to run and for us to play out in the air. I have an area walled up on two sides, one side the house brick wall and the other side a wood wall of a room addition. I am thinking about having the gate on the wooden wall running along the same plane as the wall, then running the fence at a ninety degree angle to the gate, perpendicular to the brick wall and joining an end fence running perpendicular to the wood wall of the room addition and boxing off the end joining the brick wall to the other ninety degree fence. This will give about a 25 by 50 foot area. As this will not be a big dog, not more than about 30 LBS. this should be enough area, don't you agree? I looked at some mettle fencing, I think it was called welded wire, which looks like it would do the job nicely. Also looked at some mettle fence posts and some wire clamps to attach the fence to the posts. I also have an idea of what to get for the gate and it's fasteners. Now, my concerns are what is involved in putting up the fence? Do I need to have the ground checked by some one to see about water or electrical lines I may puncture with the posts? What tools will I need and what methods do I need to familiarize my self with before starting this project? Thanks for any help you can give. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 3975 (20090330) __ The message was checked by
Re: [BlindHandyMan] advice putting up a fence
I measured 6 feet down from the top then wrapped masking tape around the post marking that distance. Once I had the string at the right height, and you may want to use a hoe or shovel to knock down any high points on the ground) it is then just a matter of setting the posts with the tape height to the string. They will be in a straight line provided you don't deflect the string with your post. You may even wish to use a stake a little thicker than the posts allowing half an inch or so each side just to keep yourself from deflecting the string as you go. Be careful, a come-along will easily put a lot of stress on the fencing and may deflect the posts. - Original Message - From: Kevin Doucet To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2010 5:18 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] advice putting up a fence masonry string and marking the posts with tape to know the depth to sink it is a good idea. At 07:06 PM 9/1/2010, you wrote: What I did was to drive stakes into the ground at the corners then loop a good strong string, masonry string is excellent for the purpose around the posts so that there are two parallel strings between which I could mark and dig my holes. This also allowed me to determine the height since the ground isn't nice and level but you probably want the top of the fence to be level for appearance. You can then decide on height and I marked each steel post with tape at the desired height so I would know exactly how deep to sink them. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] water filter and advice wanted
Hi Spiro, I kept them going on the stove top and they acted like hot water heaters. They did not heat the entire 90 foot long mobile home but the main living area was liveable (nearly). The temps would dip to the teens and one night it fell below 10F. That was truly an awful time which I really do not care to repeat. We kept the water running in all of the faucets so the lines would not freeze and we were very lucky on that count. We had a good 2 inches of ice everywhere outside. For the first several days no one in Tulsa had gasoline for sale because they did not have electricity to run the gas pumps. After 3 or 4 days more and more stations had their generators running but most of the grocery stores were dead in the water. Wal-Mart did manage to get it together and did business on a limited basis. A lot of Tulsa had electricity within a week but our poor mobile home park was among the last to get power. The blamed recreation park across the street from our park had electricity after 9 or so days but, alas, not us. Once we could get out and get supplies life did get easier but we were sure overjoyed to see the lights come back on. From what I remember there was probably not more than 1,000 feet of power lines left undamaged in the entire Tulsa metro area. I am glad I live where I do. Interestingly there was a substation explosion in the north central part of Tulsa a couple of months ago and a whole hunk of Tulsa was without power and it took a good 3 or so weeks to get everything back to normal. Folks did have limited power but were told not to run their air-conditioners. Nice thing to have happen in the middle of the summer. (LOLLOLLOL) Cy, The anasazi From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Spiro Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2010 12:41 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] water filter and advice wanted okay, sometimes I'm stupid; but how did the 5 gallon pots keep you from freezing? On Thu, 2 Sep 2010, Cy Selfridge wrote: Alan, I use those candle lighters and they are quite handy. Yup, you occasionally have to go on a search for them if the War Department has used them. (LOLLOL) The Sears stove I had demanded that the stove have electricity in order to use the oven but the stove top sure saved our lives. I used a couple of my very large (5 gallon) pots to hold water and kept it going in order not to freeze to death. I would have used cooking oil but no stores were open to seel it. (LOL) Gads, that was a miserable experience. When I managed to get the home up to a balmy 59 degrees we all celebrated. Cy, The Anasazi From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Alan Paganelli Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2010 8:31 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] water filter and advice wanted I read on the AFB accessibility page pretty much the same information concerning the default 350 degree temperature and even 450 is only 10 button pushes away. The stove we saw with the center burner is gas and they make a to do over cooking on the center large pot burner. And, one of the stoves has the hole top of the stove 1 big grate but you could still feel the burner mouths under the grate so you know where to place the pot. I'm not worried about the igniter not working. I'm a long time camper and my stove in the motor home hasn't even got electronic ignition. The way to deal with that is to buy a grill lighter or candle lighter. Basically, their both the same except the grill lighter is a little longer and more out doorsy looking. The candle lighter looks nicer and is smaller to fit women's hands better as the packing on one said. Basically, what they both are is a disposable butane lighter with a long nose. These things remind me of a rifle in that they have a trigger. They are safe as well. You put your index finger on a dial that is spring loaded. You must roll it forward and hold it there wile you squeeze the trigger. Their easy for the blind to use because you can feel where the tip of the lighter will produce flame before you shoot. You turn the gas on, wait a second and fire. The lighter ignites the butaine and your burner ignites. If you haven't got the TV going full blast or the stereo, you can hear the gas light. They only cost a couple of bucks and will last a long time. I've got a portable Coleman 2 burner propane stove that I keep in the storage bin outside in the motor home. It uses the 1 pound propane cylinders. I keep a candle lighter in the bottom of it too. When I set up the stove on a picnic table, and there it is all ready to go. Very handy and you may have to go hunting for it if you've got a candle nut for a wife! She'll love it. Mine sure does. Alan
Re: [BlindHandyMan] advice putting up a fence
Kevin, Thanks! You could tink of hanging the gate from the wall, and you could use the fence, either wooden posts or metal to act as a closer. It is worth thinking of the possibility of needing a strainer post at either end; if the run is quite long, as pulling the chain link up to tension could pull over the corner posts. Take care and hope all goes well. Mike - Original Message - From: Kevin Doucet To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2010 10:11 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] advice putting up a fence Hi Mike, First welcome to the list. Thanks to you and others who have pointed me to checking for under ground utility concerns. I called and have it scheduled to be marked. At 05:29 PM 9/1/2010, you wrote: Hi, I am somewhat of a newbie to this list, but hello to all. Yes, it would be advisable to check out the risk of punturing an electrical or water cable/pipe. If the metal posts are not too big, a crowbar is a good item to make it easier to get the posts into the ground. Crowbar is the term used in the UK, it is a long metal bar, about 4 foot long with a pointed end at one end and a flat end at the other. After making a hole with the bar, pour some water into the hole. It makes it a lot easier to hammer in a post; this is also true of wooden posts. Some dogs are bad at digging and I have seen some of them dig beneath the fence; so depending on the type of ground, whether it is concrete paved, tar or asphalt, or soil will deternine if you may need to sink the wire into the ground several inches. Hope this helps to start with. Take care, Mike - Original Message - From: Kevin Doucet To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 2010 9:25 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] advice putting up a fence Hi group, I am looking in to getting a dog. This dog will be for in doors but I want a fenced area for the pet to run and for us to play out in the air. I have an area walled up on two sides, one side the house brick wall and the other side a wood wall of a room addition. I am thinking about having the gate on the wooden wall running along the same plane as the wall, then running the fence at a ninety degree angle to the gate, perpendicular to the brick wall and joining an end fence running perpendicular to the wood wall of the room addition and boxing off the end joining the brick wall to the other ninety degree fence. This will give about a 25 by 50 foot area. As this will not be a big dog, not more than about 30 LBS. this should be enough area, don't you agree? I looked at some mettle fencing, I think it was called welded wire, which looks like it would do the job nicely. Also looked at some mettle fence posts and some wire clamps to attach the fence to the posts. I also have an idea of what to get for the gate and it's fasteners. Now, my concerns are what is involved in putting up the fence? Do I need to have the ground checked by some one to see about water or electrical lines I may puncture with the posts? What tools will I need and what methods do I need to familiarize my self with before starting this project? Thanks for any help you can give. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 3975 (20090330) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.comhttp://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] advice putting up a fence
Thanks for this advice. The posts have a flared spade part, which I guess is to give the post more traction, or, grip and I think this sort of post would need a rather large PVC pipe to accommodate it. I do understand your rationale with this idea, I just don't know if it will work with the particular posts I saw. I am still shopping around and might find some posts which will work with this, so, I will keep it in mind. Thanks for this help. At 09:21 PM 9/1/2010, you wrote: You've gotten some very sound advice on this, but I'd like to throw out two additional considerations just because they're things that aren't usually thought of when installing fencing: 1) You may want to consider using PVC pipe for setting your fence posts. The idea here is that you buy some PVC pipe that will allow the posts to fit inside snugly to moderately loosely and set these PVC pipes into concrete base at no more than a couple of inches above ground level. Then you can use these PVC pipes as inserts to hold the fence posts. By doing this, you can readily take down the fence for those unanticipated situations where you say to yourself, Self, wish I had a convenient way to take that darn fence down. I suggest PVC because it is naturally slippery and will allow you to easily slip the constructed fence out and then back in after whatever it was that inspired you to be able to take that fence down in the first place. I know this because I did it when I lived in Wheaton, Illinois. The PVC pieces should be long enough to allow the fence posts to drop down as far as necessary with an inch or two of PVC above ground level. 2) Keep in mind that when you have to do lawn work that grass will happily grow into that fencing. It is incredibly difficult to trim that grass because the weave of the fence likes to eat lawn trimmer strings like Peg Bundy used to love eating Bon-bons. Get yourself some sort of screen to run under the fence weave (from post to post) to prevent that darn grass from ever growing up into the fencing in the first place. I suggest several pieces of vinyl siding; a color that will pleasingly match the fence and home colors. You can then lay a strip of the vinyl siding so that the it will be positioned under the fencing and not one blade of grass will weave itself into your fence. I can remember asking my brother-in-law about what he thought about doing this, he thought I was nuts. That is, until he had seen what I had done. I laid the strip of vinyl siding flat on the ground (having used a hole saw to cut a perfectly round hole to slip over the fence posts). He thought it was a great idea once he saw it. Holland's Person, Bill E-Mail: mailto:BillGallik%40CenturyTel.netbillgal...@centurytel.net - The early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese! [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 3975 (20090330) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.comhttp://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Recall: Toshiba, Satellite T135, Satellite T135D and Satellite ProT130 Notebook Computers
Name of Product: Satellite T135, Satellite T135D and Satellite ProT130 Notebook Computers Units: About 41,000 worldwide Manufacturer: Toshiba America Information Systems Inc., of Irvine, Calif. Hazard: The notebook computers can overheat at the notebook's plug-in to the AC adapter, posing a burn hazard to consumers. Incidents/Injuries: Toshiba has received 129 reports of the notebook computers overheating and deforming the plastic casing area around the AC adapter plug, including two reports of minor burn injuries that did not require medical attention and two reports of minor property damage. Description: This recall involves certain Toshiba Satellite T135, Satellite T135D and Satellite Pro T130 notebook computer models. Toshiba is printed on the top of the notebook computer. The model name and number are printed on a label on the bottom of the notebook computers. Sold at: Electronics stores and other retailers nationwide and online, including at Toshibadirect.com and other websites, from August 2009 through August 2010 for between $600 and $800. Manufactured in: China Remedy: Consumers should immediately download the latest version of Toshiba's BIOS computer program to their notebook computer at http://laptops.toshiba.com/about/consumer-notices. This new computer program will detect whether the notebook computer is overheating, and if so, disable the notebook computer's external power and display a message directing the consumer to contact Toshiba for a free repair. Consumers who do not have Internet access should contact Toshiba to arrange for installation of the updated BIOS. Consumer Contact: For additional information, contact Toshiba at (800) 457- anytime or visit the firm's website at http://laptops.toshiba.com/about/consumer-notices To see this recall on CPSC's web site, including pictures of the recalled products, please go to: http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtml10/10330.html Teamwork: Together we achieve the extraordinary.
