Re: [BlindHandyMan] talking thermometer or other solution.
Now, I'm hoping you have one of these and can tell us more about it. I have the Oregon blood pressure unit, and think it is one of the coolest gadgets around for the price. It tells you in speech, as well as by its digital screen, your blood pressure, etc. My question concerning the heat sensor is, does it also give all information in speech, along with the digital readout? Do you have an idea as to the price? - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2010 9:57 AM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] talking thermometer or other solution. How about the Oregon Scientific Talking Wireless BBQ thermometer. That sounds like it would fit the bill. Again, it only goes up to 572 degrees, but has a separate wireless probe from the talking unit. Here is a description. Well let you know when your BBQ is ready from a football field away! No need to wait by the grill to find out when dinner is readythis wireless thermometer verbally alerts you when the meat has reached the perfect temperature. Program your choice of eight entres, choose the doneness desired and youre good to grill. Digital LCD screen with remote wireless probe to identify temperature/readiness of meatSpeaks in five languages with corresponding display (English, Spanish, German, French, Danish)Sensor has temperature range from 32F to 572FProgrammable entre programs include beef, lamb, veal, hamburger, pork, turkey, chicken, and fishFour doneness selections include rare, medium rare, medium, and well doneFour verbal and audio alert options let you know the status of your mealalmost ready, ready, overcooked, and out-of-rangeAudio alarm sounds when selected temperature is reachedMain unit will receive the probe signal from up to 330 feet awayStainless steel probe detaches from sensor for easy cleaningLow battery indicator -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] My Oreck Upright has Died!
Hello Claudia, I have owned an Oreck unit for years at work. There construction is very simple and straight forward. If you smelled no odors, I am suspicious that the issue may be in the switch. I have found that most repairs can be done by the owner, and your Oreck center will be glad to supply you with the required parts. If you don't have a local center, I'm sure you can order them. The first problem I had with my Oreck was with the switch. A wire broke off it. It just required re-attaching it. I complained that there was no bracket to prevent the cord from pulling on the switch connections, and my local center installed a simple one. I could have just firmly attached the cord to the handle with an electrical tie as well. Their built too well to just throw away. Good luck. - Original Message - From: Claudia To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, August 21, 2010 10:55 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] My Oreck Upright has Died! Hi, After 8 Years, my Oreck upright vacuum has died. I was using it today, feeling so proud of myself because I'd been actually moving the furniture and vacuuming behind it, and all of a sudden, it stopped. I smelled no burning rubber, nothing felt out of the usual. I thought that maybe, I may have inadvertently pulled the cord out of the outlet, but that wasn't the case. I tried it in several outlets of the home, and nothing happened. Guess the motor went out possibly? On another note, I ordered a new Oreck Cannister vac from QVC, and I'm not really liking it. It doesn't seem to pick up as well, as our original cannister vac. And, the pieces don't seem to fit tightly enough because the hose keeps disloding from the unit, or the handle dislodges from the hose. It drives me insane. You may be wondering why we have two Orecks; we bought them as a set, the upright, cannister cordless iron, and we've liked them a great deal. Now, I've been looking online at QVC, and there are several Oreck uprights there, but I just can't figure out which one will be the best. I like the lightweight feature of the Oreck upright, as I have a good deal of house to cover! There is an Oreck set that includes an upright, cannister vac cordless iron, for $549. The premice is that this upright vac is super quiet, but that's a lot of money. The one drawback to our current Oreck upright is that it is loud. What to do, what to do! Claudia Windows Messenger: cdelreal1...@sbcglobal.net Skype: claudiadr10 __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5385 (20100821) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dressing gaskets
I have had problems with my upright deep-freeze icing over for the past few years. When I serviced cleaned the unit this past winter, I remembered a tip a mechanic gave to me about door seals on cars, and cleaned and rubbed in silicone into the door gaskets. It restored them to new condition and now the freezer is not icing over nearly as fast as it previously was. We are in the freezer a number of times a day, and there is no way there is going to be no icing over in the unit. - Original Message - From: William Stephan To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, August 15, 2010 6:25 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Dressing gaskets All: we've been having some pretty humid and hot weather for the past week or two here, and on a couple occasions, my basement refrigerator's ice-maker had a lot of frost/ice in its works. This is an older refrigerator, and I wouldn't be surprised to learn that the gasket around the door is wearing out. Does anybody know if there are compounds or products that can be used to dress one of these to give it a little more life? Thanks. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Buying a new Bed?
As Darren said, many wood frames come with a bracket to attach an existing headboard. If the brackets are not included, almost any hardware store carries a nice selection of angle brackets for you to choose from. - Original Message - From: Claudia To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, August 06, 2010 2:31 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Buying a new Bed? Okay, I need some explanation here. We have a queen-sized bed that sits on a metal frame with wheels. The bed has both its matress and box spring! The headboard is what's called a bookcase style. It's the width of the bed, with shelves on each side and an open space in the middle. We'd like a similar set-up for the new bed. However, we've been hunting, and this is what we've found. The beds don't seem to have metal or iron frames anymore; they seem to have a wood base or frame. I'm wondering if we can connect a headboard to this type of bed or not? As I said, the current frame is on wheels, so that gives the bed some height; we need something that's a little lower to the ground, so it seems that wood frames are the way to go. But, again, we also want this book case style headboard, and they're difficult to find. Walmart has one by Sauder that we can put together, and this is what I'm thinking of doing. Is it logical that you can purchase a bed frame separately from the bed itself? Am I right in thinking that you can't connect headboards to wooden frames? And if I'm wrong on this, how is this done? Would it be by drilling holes into the frame and screwing the headboard to it? I'm not sure if this is making any sense, but since I don't have any sight, all of what I'm picturing here has been things that I've only been able to touch! Claudia Windows Messenger: cdelreal1...@sbcglobal.net Skype: claudiadr10 __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5345 (20100805) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] advice pleas cleaning a marble surface
Howdy Carl, You may want to take a look at: http://www.howtocleanstuff.net/floors-and-carpet/ You will see ways to clean different marble products. - Original Message - From: Carl To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, August 06, 2010 1:39 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] advice pleas cleaning a marble surface hi thair my shower tray is made from marble how can i clean this? i'm in the north east of the UK you can contackt me on skype carlf16 and joine my list for unabridged audiobooks send a blank email to ub_ab_bookspace+subscr...@googlegroups.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] roof damage
Howdy Jennifer, As I am responding later in the thread, it appears that you have received some very good information. I did want to add one thought. If you feel that your roof and shingles should be in good repair and that your roof is not so old as to require replacing, you might want to use the services of a good handyman. I have a local gentleman that I have used in the past for smaller roof repairs. The advantage, I find, is since he does smaller repairs, he is only too pleased to repair the damage without reference to replacing the roof. Works for me. - Original Message - From: Jennifer Jackson To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 2010 11:03 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] roof damage Good Morning, I need some input on the condition of my roof and what my next step should be. There is a hole in the ceiling of an upstairs bedroom that is from a water leak. I have been up on a short ladder and checked this part out for myself. It is about the size of a salad plate. I know I have to stop the water from coming in, but I am afraid to get up on the second story roof to investigate. Both afraid of falling, and of doing more damage to the roof as I know nothing about roofing. My mother looks up into this hole and goes on about being able to see the sky. Her answer to the problem is that I must get some man to fix it, so she is not very helpful as a source for more sighted details. My husband has a theory about this leak that I am not certain about. I may have mentioned that home repair is not his forte? Anyway, he insists that the light my mother is seeing is coming through the vent. He is referring to the round vent things that have a fan in them for ventilation. He claims that the water is coming in through the vent and is normal. He tells me that the other fan has a plastic pan under it to catch the water and that this is why it does not have a similar leek. The water that leeks through seems like a lot of water to be expected to just evaporate out of a collection pan. My husband is suggesting that we just need to put in some more insulation and repair the sheet rock. I am willing to get up in the attic and try to access this area to get more information. I am just not certain that any repairs from that side will really do any good, or of any safety precautions I need to take. Such as perhaps turning off the electricity at the breaker box to avoid any possible live wires? Your input will be greatly appreciated. It will cause a fight with my husband if I go ahead and call in a roofer after he has said we do not need one. I am willing to fight with him, but I prefer not to whenever possible. I would love for him to be right about this. Jennifer\ [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dryer Problem
Maybe I missed seeing the brand of the machine. Many Maytag models can be opened by simply removing the two screws located low on the front panel. This opens the machine adequate for doing most repairs to the drying mechanism. - Original Message - From: robert Gilman To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, July 12, 2010 5:28 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dryer Problem Now just how does the top unsnap in the front. Thanks Bob - Original Message - From: Ron Yearns To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, July 12, 2010 10:27 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dryer Problem As Dale said, removing the back is a waste of time. I would start with the top. It should snap free from the front and hinge towards the back. Hopefully you can rotate the drum by hand untill you can reach the pin. If you are unable to do this then removing the front and pulling the drum out is called for. This will involve removing the belt and re stringing it when reinstalling. Hope you you can get it from the top. Ron - Original Message - From: Robert Gilman To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, July 11, 2010 5:25 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Dryer Problem Hi All, I am looking for some tips on taking the dryer apart. I have a bobby pin stuck in the drum that is grinding into the drum. Can I just unscrew all the screws and get the back panel off and possible access the pin or will I need to take the top off. Thanks, Bob [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Painting a tin roof.
My dad just coated his metal roof for the second time. He uses White Coat, the product made for coating the roofs on mobile homes. The first coat held up for a dozen years. If it hadn't appeared that it needed a new coat, he wouldn't have bothered. There was some discoloration from leaves dropping on it, etc., but after they power washed it before coating it, dad said it looked like new again. It's pretty cool stuff. - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: Blind Handyman List Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2010 12:37 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Painting a tin roof. Anyone have experience painting a tin roof? My porch roof is tin and is need of a little TLC. Everything I've read so far basically says: Scrape or sand, thoroughly wash with soap or TSP, dry, prime, paint two coats. Any recommendation or disrecommendation for paints to use? My neighbor just painted his porch roof and is now offering to paint everyone's porch roof, for a fee. I think his fee is too high, and he did some cursory scraping of loose rust and peeling paint, didn't wash, didn't prime, and used one coat of rustoleum paint. I don't think that will hold up, but I'm no painter. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Basements Again!
Hello Claudia, Well, I see that you have already received some excellent information from the group. I'm with you about those cobwebs! As with previous houses I've owned, my current house had an unfinished basement when I purchased it. I immediately cleaned the walls down with a steel bristle brush and shop vacuum to remove any loose concrete and dirt. I then had the walls painted with a waterproof coat, followed by a finish coat of paint. I recently read about the following product and wish it had been around when I had the walls painted. It sounds very effective and pleasing to the eye. Designer Drylok UGL now offers Designer Drylok, a decorative waterproofer formulated with an advanced color system that imparts a granite-like filler system with multicolored specks, providing an economical alternative to solid color. Until now, waterproofers have been a utilitarian paint, used to keep water from entering masonry. Now, customers have the ability to keep water out and create an up-to-date specked finish to add a decorative look. Latex-based Designer Drylok comes with a 10-year fully transferable warranty and is ideal for masonry walls, cinder and concrete blocks, stucco, brick, fieldstone foundations and retaining walls. The product is available in two introductory colors; Misty Gray with Midnight Specks, and Natural Sand with Brownstone Specks. Learn more at www.ugl.com http://www.ugl.com/ . http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/hotprod_images/0%201a1a1HardwareShow2010TT06. jpg I then had the floor painted with basement floor paint. I have always liked this product, as it makes the floors easy to sweep, vacuum or mop. Good luck. Rick Everun Tankless, Coilless Water http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/article.asp?article_id=61044 - Original Message - From: Claudia To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, July 02, 2010 3:05 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Basements Again! Hi All, We have a large unfinished basement; the floors are concrete, and the walls are cindrblock. There is no insulation or drywall in the basement currently! We had that all taken out, after we experienced about a foot of water, in our basement, two years ago. What would be the best way to go about keeping the basement floor clean? We currently use a shop vac to do that, but it takes forever and a day, to get it done. Also, I think I asked about this before, but the basement gets full of spiders and spider webs, and I hate walking around down there, feeling stuff hanging over my head! What can we do to curb some of this activity, if anything? Or, would some of this probelm be eliminated, once we start putting back new insulation and drywall? Thanks. Claudia Windows Messenger: cdelreal1...@sbcglobal.net Skype: claudiadr10 __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5245 (20100702) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] tread mill greese
Howdy Jim, First of all, I'd be very careful what you put between the belt and deck of your treadmill. You want to put only what the manufacturer suggests. On my Schwinn treadmill, they suggest only using a silicone product made for treadmills. I found that a simple silicone only product works very well. It's odd, as the silicone makes my deck as slick as an ice rink, but it doesn't affect the rollers at all. I think that's what you'll find as well. - Original Message - From: jim To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 5:22 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] tread mill greese hi, i used to have a electric tread mill from sears. along withat treadmill came some grease to put under the belt. well i got rid of that one never having used the grease. so, now i have another one it was not new when i got it. and the belts getting kind of loud. i am wondering if i put the grease on the under side of the belt how will it keep turning with out slipping on the rollers that move it? thanks for any help someone might have that owns one. Jim [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: testing for mold, more
Howdy, If you don't see or can't smell any mold, I'd just have my basement walls painted with water-proofing paint and buy a dehumidifier. Simple but inexpensive insurance. - Original Message - From: Claudia To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, June 17, 2010 4:39 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: testing for mold, more Thanks Tom, My son has seen an allergist who is board certified, and he did not test positive for mold. As far as the visual aspect, no one has seen anything around our walls, and I certainly don't feel anything but the concrete. I don't know what constitutes standing water for a long period!\ When our bastement had the water damage, it was all a nightmarish blur, so I don't recall how long the water was there, before it began receeding. Claudia - Original Message - From: Tom Fowle To: blindHandyMan Sent: Thursday, June 17, 2010 1:07 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Re: testing for mold, more I asked our tech who is a landlord and very practical. He says if you have a place where water has stayed a lot and there is no heat or air movement mold can become a real mess, but you can see, smell, and even feel it on walls etc. Any sighted person should be able to see if there is green or black stuff where it shouldn't be. Just a bit around windows that aren't opened too often is probably no big deal. My guess is that if you're place was clean after the water damage cleanup and you have any reasonable amount of warmth and air movement, you're probably fine again, last thing to do is go to a mold removal and testing company cause they will find it whether it's there or not. Also don't go to doctors who specialize in mold or allergy testing unless they are board certified allergologists Tom Fowle __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5199 (20100615) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5199 (20100615) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Treadmill!
You may want to get someone to help you with this. It will likely arrive unassembled, but the deck will likely be the heavy part, having most of the weight. The unit will not only require assembly, but will have to have the roller tension aligned. This is something you can do yourself, but if you're like me, you may require some help determining how it is done. - Original Message - From: Claudia To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, May 29, 2010 11:01 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] New Treadmill! Hi All, I'm in need of a new treadmill, but I have some questions. i went to look at it, in the store today, and it's pretty bulky, weighing 1 pounds. It's a Golds Gym model, but I'm wondering how I can get it home. I have family with a truck, but the lifting is going to be a pain in the **! So, I thought I'd have it shipped to my house because shipping is practically free, but then, I'd still have to get it into the house and down to the basement! I'm guessing I'll need two people for this project? Claudia Windows Messenger: cdelreal1...@sbcglobal.net Skype: claudiadr10 __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5155 (20100530) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] stove top terminal block
On electric units I've worked on, the elements have to snap into the block to lock in. If they don't lock in, they'll just fall back out when in use. Does this make sense? Are you able to feel them snap or lock in when you insert the two ends of the elements? You may have to aggressively shove them in to get them to lock in. - Original Message - From: Jennifer Jackson To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, May 27, 2010 5:52 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] stove top terminal block Hello Everybody, This is about my stove top. The elements are not setting into the terminal block correctly. I can not get them in myself a lot of the time, and when they are in it does not take much to bump them loose. Does the whole terminal block have to be replaced or is there maybe some kind of gasket that is just needing to be replaced? Any other trouble shooting thoughts on what this is? Jennifer [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Putting in a basement floor
When reference is made to baked lumber, I am curious if reference is actually being made to heat modified lumber? I thought I just read in an article, that there is still question as to whether heat modified lumber will hold up to moisture, particularly when used in contact with the ground. - Original Message - From: Spiro To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2010 5:16 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Putting in a basement floor I think it used to be called KD for kilm dried. On Tue, 25 May 2010, Ron Yearns wrote: OK I'm biting . White is bakeed lumber? Ron - Original Message - From: chiliblindman To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, May 24, 2010 9:27 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Putting in a basement floor You might consider the newer baked lumber. It will take moisture extremes and not rot or expand and shrink. .bob [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Putting in a basement floor
Howdy Tom, Now I have to admit that after reading your note, that I scratched my head and deleted your request for assistance. Then I realized that you had really gave the group a challenge. I've been thinking about the problem and believe the first thing we need to know, is how you're planning to use the area. If you're considering it as a living area, you would want a better quality floor and a better barrier from the soil. If you're not going to use it as a living area, I can imagine some possible alternative floors. - Original Message - From: Tom Vos To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 2010 7:43 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Putting in a basement floor Are there any alternatives for a basement floor other than concrete? We have a room in the basement with a dirt floor. It's not very usable that way, but to get concrete down there will be tough. There are no windows, so concrete would have to be hauled through the entry and kitchen and down the stairs. Or we could carry bags of Redi Mix, but it's going to take a whale of a lot of bags to do the room. It's only about 12 feet square, but that's a lot of lugging. Any ideas? Blessings, Tom [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] computer won't start
Problem points to weakening mother board or hard drive. If you can get it to once again boot, I would suggest that you defrag and run disk check on your hard drive. - Original Message - From: Lenny McHugh lmch...@verizon.net To: handyman-blind blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2010 4:12 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] computer won't start Ok, this is the second day that my computer would not start. It just sat on a windows starting screen. A reset did not help. When a forced power shut down and turning back on. A message warning that windows did not previously start because of a hardware problem. It wanted me to select a previous state that worked. While my wife was reading the choices it did start. Is this my hard drive going south or the mother board. I have been putting off purchasing a new machine. This is a 2000 1.3 mhz machine with 512 memory, it does everything that I need it to do.If I can locate another 40 gb hard drive I could easily replace. I do have full image backups. --- Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous with many resources for the blind. http://www.lennymchugh.com Lenny Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use BCC line when addressing. Help stop identity theft. __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5106 (20100511) __ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: blindhandyman-dig...@yahoogroups.com blindhandyman-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: blindhandyman-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Toilet Mounting
Howard, I would guess that you have some settling in the floor. Is this a wood floor? If so, it may be that some of the plywood flooring is deteriorating. You could shim the stool, but it might be a better idea to determine the actual issue and make the proper repair. I would examine the area carefully and try to determine the actual issue. Let us know what you find and someone should be able to assist with a fix. - Original Message - From: Howard Traxler To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 2:49 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Toilet Mounting Hi all, In my powder room I had a toilet that seemed pretty loose from the floor--but didn't leak or nothin'. It would just slide around and rock a bit. I went in there with an adjustable wrench and tightened it up some. There are two bolts that seem to come up through the floor; one on each side of the main drain pipe. It seemed to become more stable, but actually tilted back as I tightened. Now the front edge is a quarter inch or so off the floor. It thumps down to the floor as someone sits with their weight tward the front. So, I guess it still rocks a bit. So: What's the problem and how can I fix it? Do I want a shim under the front? Do I want to tighten more? Or did I already tighten too much? Appreciate any ideas. Thanks. Howard Traxler [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Toilet Mounting
Well, sometimes I feel that way too. I think what it really comes down to, however, is that sometimes there are problems that are hidden and finding them simply means more work. - Original Message - From: Howard Traxler To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 6:10 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Toilet Mounting It looks like I may have to lift the bowl off the drain connection to find out what's happening. I was hoping I wouldn't have to do that. I have a nack for making things worse. HT - Original Message - From: Rick Hume To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 4:58 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Toilet Mounting Howard, I would guess that you have some settling in the floor. Is this a wood floor? If so, it may be that some of the plywood flooring is deteriorating. You could shim the stool, but it might be a better idea to determine the actual issue and make the proper repair. I would examine the area carefully and try to determine the actual issue. Let us know what you find and someone should be able to assist with a fix. - Original Message - From: Howard Traxler To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 2:49 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Toilet Mounting Hi all, In my powder room I had a toilet that seemed pretty loose from the floor--but didn't leak or nothin'. It would just slide around and rock a bit. I went in there with an adjustable wrench and tightened it up some. There are two bolts that seem to come up through the floor; one on each side of the main drain pipe. It seemed to become more stable, but actually tilted back as I tightened. Now the front edge is a quarter inch or so off the floor. It thumps down to the floor as someone sits with their weight tward the front. So, I guess it still rocks a bit. So: What's the problem and how can I fix it? Do I want a shim under the front? Do I want to tighten more? Or did I already tighten too much? Appreciate any ideas. Thanks. Howard Traxler [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] handywoman question- needle threaders
I've had one that I got somewhere about 20 years ago. I sure wish I could tell you where to get one like it. It is very slick. There is a handle about the size of a dime. Coming out of it is a thin rigid type of wire that is in the preformed shape of a diamond (ex: baseball diamond). When you press the top of the diamond into the eye of a needle, the diamond easily collapses and passes through the eye. Upon passing through the eye, it returns to it's diamond shape, which is a very easy target for passing the thread. You just pull the threaded diamond back through the eye to complete the process. I think I likely bought it from a sewing supplies center. - Original Message - From: lvmumford To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 9:15 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] handywoman question- needle threaders I need to do some hand sewing and would like some advice about needle threaders. I am completely blind and I know there are needle threaders out there but don't know whick ones are the most blind user friendly. Much thanks, Linda [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] security light with motion detector
Years ago when I had a place in a mobile home park, my two trash cans started coming up missing. With some help from some friends and family, we finally found that the thief was the wind. It was often windy in the park, and the wind would pitch the cans over on their sides and roll them down the street. We finally took care of the problem by running a dog chain through one of the handles on each can and then latching them together. I attached the other end of the chain around my mail box pole. I never had a problem with them after that. I even talked the waste disposal company into reconnecting them after they were emptied. - Original Message - From: Brice Mijares To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 11:57 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] security light with motion detector Well there will be no way a tree branch would set it off. My mobile home has a covered car port that goes the length of the mobile home it's self. plus I have a tough shed at the end of the car port that's half under the awning. This is where I'd like to set up some kind of security system. This way I'd get full security of the car, the patio and anyone trying to get into my shed. - Original Message - From: Tom Hodges tomhod...@fuse.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 6:58 AM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] security light with motion detector Two things. A friend bought a security system from Home Depot but that was about four years ago and I don't know if they carry them any more. It had a motion sensing camera and a VCR recorder. When someone went in front of the camera it automatically turned on the recorder and ran for about a minute, but if there was continuing movement, it would keep running. Secondly, no matter what type of motion sensor you use, there is always the problem outside of having the wind blowing tree branches or shrubs, etc. and setting it off. If this happens often, you start to ignore it. Once you start ignoring it because you think it is a tree branch, you might as well not even have one. From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Brice Mijares Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 10:35 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] security light with motion detector Hello Betsy, I thought of putting one of those alarms that have a pull pin but decided against it. Once I'm in bed, I wouldn't want to get up and turn it off. With a 300 watt light being turned on by a motion detector or heat sensor and lighting that area like it was day time I think it would scare the hell out of a thief. It would also be nice to get the person on camera. - Original Message - From: Betsy Whitney braill...@hawaii.rr.com mailto:brailleit%40hawaii.rr.com To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 4:48 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] security light with motion detector Aloha Brice, How about putting some sort of an alarm on it so if the can is moved it will squeal. Now that aluminum cans are worth money, I suspect that people wander around looking for them. Betsy At 01:30 PM 4/9/2010, you wrote: Can you believe this. We move into a senior citizen mobile home park in December. I had a regular trash can that I saved our aluminum cans that I always smash. Well last week, I went outside to dump some and couldn't fine the trash can. Some lousy sum bitch stole the trash can and all. Now I need some ideas. I want something like a motion detector that will not only light up the area, but also start a cam recorder or the likes. It had to be someone from outside the park that did this as I found out others had there cans stolen. __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5014 (20100409) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.comhttp://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5014 (20100409) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5014 (20100409) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5015 (20100410) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dan or others,
If you use one of the numerous drip coffee makers, you could run some vinegar thru it, which would help keep the lime from building up in it, and then pour the hot vinegar in your thermos and let it sit for a while. You will need to rinse both well, or you'll be left with a vinegar taste. - Original Message - From: Spiro To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 5:58 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Dan or others, Hi, Maybe it took too long, but I finally got my Handyman thermos Two weeks ago. Steel, double walled with a 12oz steel cup. I'm saving $2 a day and it can take a beating. I'm sure to have it with me more than just to my non-fix-it job but thankfully to any outside project. However, Dan and others, it has that very familiar Canteen smell. You guys must know that smell. I've used it now for 8 days, and that smell went away for the most part after 5. But is was heavily in the coffee. It's still there, and I'm thinking $2 a day (makes the coffee cost $33.90 a pound at DD) is starting to sound good as I'm not happy with that as a taste in my fine etheopean coffee from home. Help, what gets that smell out of a canteen or steel liquids vessel? Thanks [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw
For this small of tree you may just want to use a hand operated saw. With a good single-operator camp model saw, it would just take a couple of minutes to drop the tree. If you're really interested in a chain saw, there are other considerations. I use an electric Polland chain saw. It works excellent, but you have to remember that you're going to have to have power available for it. I'm considering getting a gas model at some future point, as there are times that it would be more convenient not having to string out a power cord. Hope this helps. - Original Message - From: Scott Berry To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 1:05 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw Hello there, I have some trees which are approximately 12 to 14 feet and 3 inches in diameter. These are wild plumb trees. What type and make of chain saw do you recommend. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Toro leaf blower
You know it's funny Dale, but I think a lot of users of leaf blowers eventually settle into a system similar to the one I use. I have found that a leaf blower doesn't bush or pick up everything I'd like when using the unit alone. I find myself raking an area into a pile, and then picking up the piles with the vacuumed part of the unit. Does this make the job easier. Certainly! I can pick up many large piles before having to empty the bag on my unit, and the stuff in the bag is cut up so small, that I feel it is easier to dispose of. - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens dleav...@puc.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, April 03, 2010 5:31 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Toro leaf blower I have three rakes. much quieter much healthier, much greener. Once collected I shred the leaves and what ever else collected and feed it all back into the garden. Never understood the need of one of those things. If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie - Original Message - From: Lenny McHugh lmch...@verizon.net To: handyman-blind blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, April 03, 2010 4:14 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Toro leaf blower Well we broke down and purchased the Toro 51599 leaf blower/vac mulcher unit. At a quick look I am impressed. I think it has a stronger blower than my son-in-laws gas powered unit. This produces winds about 235 mph. It is suppose to be easily switched from blower to vac mode. I have to get Karen to read some instructions. By touch I have not figured out how to switch modes. We have no trees but end up with more leaves than any of the neighbors. I hope that this will help make it easier for Karen to clean up the mess. Kids do not want to work any more. I normally do not purchase extended warranties but for this thing I did. For an additional $12 I have four years of replacement if anything breaks. --- Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous with many resources for the blind. http://www.lennymchugh.com Lenny Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use BCC line when addressing. Help stop identity theft. __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 4997 (20100403) __ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address:
Re: [BlindHandyMan] replacing knob on mobile home door
I owned a mobile home once. I found that items related to the doors, windows, etc. often weren't standard. At first, I'd have a local mobile home service company send over a serviceman to make repairs. I'd ask him to explain to me the repair he was making, and after a couple of visits, decided to make a trip to the service company and just purchase the parts. Repairs on a mobile home are not impossible, but when there built, they often have installation of products done differently. - Original Message - From: Art Rizzino To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, March 29, 2010 6:28 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] replacing knob on mobile home door Kevin, did the latch mechanism have two screws holding it in? I believe that I have seen mobile home doors that did not have any screws holding the latch in. Also sometimes mobile homes use non standard hardware for many things. Maybe the door is one of the things that uses non standard hardware. Good luck. - Original Message - From: Kevin Doucet To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, March 28, 2010 11:06 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] replacing knob on mobile home door Hi, A friend wants to replace the door knob on the front door of her mobile home. We took off the old knob and its innards and can't get the new tongue mechanism to fit in to the edge of the door. Seems a mettle sleeve has been inserted in to the round whole in the edge which prevents the new lock mechanism to slide in from the side of the door. Should this mettle sleeve need to be removed and if so, how? Thanks for any help or clarifying questions as I am sure I did not explain it very well. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Color Identifier
Hey, Terry, I've asked dozens of people about this before, without anyone being able to supply a precise answer. You say that you use a color identifier. I assume that you use it to determine wire coating colors? Does your color identifier accurately identify the color of wire coatings? What make and model of identifier do you have? Thank you for your information. Rick - Original Message - From: Terry Klarich To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, March 26, 2010 9:02 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] talking multimeter Just got my multimeter yesterday. Already used it on the sailboat trailer. Works great. I appreciate the info very much. Anything I can do completely by myself makes my life much easier. With the multimeter and my color identifier, I'm pretty much set as far as wiring goes. I'm pretty pumped. Thank you all very much. Terry [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 4978 (20100326) __ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 4978 (20100326) __ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Studly Do-Right
Interesting. I've never heard of anyone doing this. 24 on the plywood side would likely be fine, but I'd surely use 16 centers for the dry wall side. Considering the savings, I'd probably use 16 centers on both sides to cover myself. - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: Blind Handyman List Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2010 8:22 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Studly Do-Right When I build the wall separating my finished basement room from the shop, I am attempting some sound dampening strategies. From talking with a guy who built a studio in his basement, aside from making sure there are absolutely no air passages through the wall, the main consideration is mass-air-mass. Heavy walls, separated by an air gap. I intend on using a 2X6 footer and header, with offset studs so there is no bridging between the two wall surfaces. My question is, do I put the studs for each wall surface 16 inches on center? Or can I put them 24 inches on center? The shop wall surface will be 3/4 inch plywood so that I can hang shelves on it. So, I think the plywood will be stiff enough to be supported on 24 inch centers. However, the finished room wall surface will be 5/8 dry wall. Is 24 inches on center enough support for the dry wall or does it need to be 16 inches on center? Thanks. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Roofing question
Howdy Al, Your current shingle layer is not that old. Curling at this stage is most likely caused by the attic not being sufficiently ventilated. You could install some vents and that might slow any further deterioration. If the curling isn't too bad, you could just let it go for now and keep watch on it. It is unlikely that your insurance or the product warranty will give you any help. I have a second home in Indiana that has the same problem on both the house and garage. Unfortunately, the shingles are seriously curled and will have to be replaced this year. Neither the house or garage have roof vents. I'll be correcting that when I re-roof them. - Original Message - From: Alan Terrie Robbins To: Blindhandyman Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2010 9:54 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Roofing question Our house (raised ranch) was built in 1975. We had a new roof put on in 1998. At that time there was only one layer of existing shingles and the contractor felt there would be no problem in just putting a new layer of standard 20-25 year asphalt shingles. This Spring, my wife said the shingles were looking funny on the front side of the house. This is the side facing South an gets lots of sun. Yesterday I had a chance to get my ladder out and go up to do a cursory inspection to better understand what she was bringing to my attention. The shingles are all in intact but a lot of them are curling up on the corners of each third of the shingle. In many place where they are curling the asphalt is flaked off but the under part of the shingle remains. My questions are these 1. Would something like I described above constitute some warranty coverage on the part of the shingle manufacturer? If so, does there guarantee only cover the faulty product or include the labor associated with replacing? 2. Could something like this have been caused by severe weather and winds and subsequently be covered by home owners insurance? 3. Is this something to be immediately concerned with or not to worry for a few more years.? I know the next roof that goes on is going to require removing the current two layers and then putting down new paper and shingles. From the times I've been in our crawl space in the attic I don't believe any of the plywood would need to be replaced. Any feedback on the above would be greatly appreciated Al [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rent or own, that is the question
I just bought a DeWalt coil roofing nailer. I haven't got to use it yet, but it looks very well designed and I like the safety features. Since you've used one of these before, could you tell me how many coil nails you drive into a single standard 3-tab shingle? I'm just curious if more coil nails are required than standard roofing nails. - Original Message - From: Terry Klarich To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2010 4:46 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Rent or own, that is the question Hey all: Over the past 4 years or so, I've needed a roofing nailer 3 times. If I add up all the money I've spent on renting one, I have purchased one for the tool rental company out right. In my mind, I'm thinking I won't use one enough to purchase one; but, evidently, this isn't the case. I've wasted about $250 so far. On the other hand, I don't think I'll need one for the forseeable future. Unless, I have to replace another roof plumming vent as I did last weekend. Having a nailer sure makes the job go much quicker and easier than a hammer and box of roofing nails. I'm half way tempted to get one the next time I have to do any roof work. What do you all think? Terry [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rent or own, that is the question
I forgot to mention that I paid about $115 for my DeWalt nailer. Bought it re-ferbbed from Tool King. - Original Message - From: Terry Klarich To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2010 4:46 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Rent or own, that is the question Hey all: Over the past 4 years or so, I've needed a roofing nailer 3 times. If I add up all the money I've spent on renting one, I have purchased one for the tool rental company out right. In my mind, I'm thinking I won't use one enough to purchase one; but, evidently, this isn't the case. I've wasted about $250 so far. On the other hand, I don't think I'll need one for the forseeable future. Unless, I have to replace another roof plumming vent as I did last weekend. Having a nailer sure makes the job go much quicker and easier than a hammer and box of roofing nails. I'm half way tempted to get one the next time I have to do any roof work. What do you all think? Terry [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] electric snowblower
Yes, this is entirely correct. I cleared the 4 to 5 inches we had on our drive this past Saturday. One trick I use, is that rather than attempt to get the next strip of snow that is to my left or right, I'll actually cut in sharper than I'd guess. I find that this cuts down on me going over areas already cleared, and I find that I usually leave no more than one pass of snow. It is really easy to square up on the missed strip and I find I can clear the drive in half the time using this method. I even managed to stay out of the road this past time. smile I checked all the reviews on snow throwers I could find on the internet, and settled on a single-stage Toro. We just love it. It's a real bull dog. Rick - Original Message - From: Bill Gallik To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, February 28, 2010 7:53 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] electric snowblower Scott, From your question, I'm surmising you don't think a blind person can operate a gasoline snowblower? Oh contraire my friend, I am the only one here and even if I weren't I'd still be in charge of clearing the snow with my 8 HP snowblower. Certainly a blind person isn't going to be quite as efficient as a sighted person probably duplicating effort several times. But I've developed a system for clearing the snow from the garage area parking and my friends tell me I do an incredibly good job of it. Now the sidewalks are simply a matter of feeling; I can tell when I've strayed off the sidewalk from the feeling that comes from the snowblower housing sliding on grass instead of sidewalk concrete. And the deck (when I decide to pull the machine up there) is very easy to tell. I've been known to put an auxiliary hood over my head backwards. This is a real hoot because passing motorists (at least 1 out of 3) slows down to rubber neck. I do it on exceptionally cold days and I figure, Why expose any flesh at all? So, my answer to your question is a definite YES, a blind person could run an electric snowblower! Holland's Person, Bill - Be careful about reading health books. You may die of a misprint. - US Humorist, Mark Twain (1835 - 1910) [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Workout Equipment?
I have a weight room in my basement, or maybe I should say that my basement is a weight room, as it is full of equipment. I'm a firm believer in working the body to maintain vitality. I'm over 60 years old, but I don't particularly want to look or feel like it. Here is my thoughts on bikes vs tread mills. Bikes allow for an easier, less intrusive workout. A treadmill will usually give you a more intensive workout. Now, the thing about these observations, is that it is totally based on the person working out. Doing either is a hundred times better than doing nothing. - Original Message - From: Claudia To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, March 01, 2010 12:22 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Workout Equipment? Hi, What types of equipment would be good, for someone who is totally blind, to purchase? I'm looking for a bike treadmill so any suggestions would be helpful. Claudia __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 4901 (20100227) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] a plant question
Iris are grown from tubers and may be grown in a greenhouse. - Original Message - From: Carl To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com ; blind-garde...@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, February 22, 2010 2:23 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] a plant question are irisses bulbs? and are thair any problems in groeing them in a green house [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Ideas about constructing sidewalk welcome.
I'm intrigued about these forms. Are you saying that you pour the cement and then press down the forms, or pour the cement into the forms and remove them after they dry? - Original Message - From: RJ To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2010 11:10 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Ideas about constructing sidewalk welcome. I got the forms at lowes or Home Depot. The pre-mix is 80 pounds and the cost was around $4 a bag. These forms come in rock or brick shape and I think I paid $16 for the form. Just ask for the forms for sidewalks or patio and explain the type of form you are looking for. I believe the rocks were about 1 3/4 inch thick. Had them for a sidewalk for three years now, and they do hold up. I live in Northern Pennsylvania and the weather doesn't seem to affect them and they stay in place so far. Didn't even level out the ground, But did put landscape cloth down first. - Original Message - From: Sheryl Nelson To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2010 10:56 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Ideas about constructing sidewalk welcome. Aloha, Where would I get the forms and what would I ask for? How much do the bags of pre mixed concrete weigh? Should it probably be available at Home Depot or another big box store? Thanks I have never heard of pre mixed concrete. Have a great day. Sheryl . 02:08 AM 2/11/2010, you wrote: I used a 2x2 ft plastic form that inter-locked the block together, as you move the form. It gives a rock like look and you can color the bag of pre mixed concrete if you like. It is some what time consuming , but the look, so I am told looks great. You finish it off with sand or a small pea gravel between the joints. Believe the form makes 8 or 9 rock like shapes - Original Message - From: Sheryl Nelson To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, February 10, 2010 23:53 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Ideas about constructing sidewalk welcome. Aloha from Sheryl, I want to construct a sidewalk that goes around my house part of the way. I want to stay with a period look 1920. I've priced pavors at several stores including the local hardwear store and big box stores. There is not a very good selection of any kind. I've thought of concrete, interlocking pavors at $1.50 each but probably do not know what options are available. The walkway will start at the bottom of my deck stairs make a gentle circle toward the front of the house pass the front steps making a line to the rental studio to keep from having to walk in the mud. I am thinking of around sixteen inches wide. Would appreciate any thoughts and ideas. I roughly figured I would need about 800 pavors for the project more than I want to spend. Be careful if you live where the weather is very cold and snowy. I saw on the news and frankly it looks awful. Stay safe. Aloha Sheryl [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Your thoughts for Improvements to this Group
I hope I am giving this information correctly. For those that do not want to hear left bracket blind handyman right bracket and are using JAWS, while in your email program, open the JAWS dictionary (JAWS key + d) and add [BlindHandyman] In the next field where you put how you want it said, simply enter BHG Click on OK and don't forget to hit save to save your change. - Original Message - From: Spiro To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, February 09, 2010 4:16 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Your thoughts for Improvements to this Group I understand about roles, though I rarely use them. I don't want to inconvenience folks. I don't havea way to mute that as David suggested (thanks for that, it's quite cool). but it is 13 spaces that could be 3. I'll stop as I'm far too fond of this list to be bounced off. On Tue, 9 Feb 2010, Tom Hodges wrote: I agree with Spiro, as written below. It takes forever to go through the inbox, just to hear the subject matter. Is all that left bracket, right bracket, stuff necessary? If it is necessary, okay, but just wondering if it could be eliminated. Thanks. From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of sp...@iamspiro.com Sent: Tuesday, February 09, 2010 12:44 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Your thoughts for Improvements to this Group This might be stupid to some. But is it at all posible to shorten the list name in the subject field to something like [BHM]? The reason I ask is that the amount on a subject line could be more utilized without so much of it taken by the listname. For instance, blindaccesshelp is [bah[ and I'm sure we all know of others. Small change, I know. I love the list! On Tue, 9 Feb 2010, Ray Boyce wrote: Hi All Have you any positive thoughts for Improvements that could be undertaken to make this group better. Is there something that you would like to see happening that would make this membership better informed. Now that I am retired I have the time to do lots more research so please let us know how or what I can do to help you. Positive thoughts please no smart arse comments that does not help anyone. Ray [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Your thoughts for Improvements to this Group
Donnie, thank you for catching the error. I knew that I'd likely miss something. I probably had my mind on the bowl of banana pudding my wife had just dropped off. - Original Message - From: Donnie Parrett To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, February 09, 2010 7:12 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Your thoughts for Improvements to this Group Rick, For the JAWS Dictionary entry, you will need to enter it exactly how it appears in the subject line. What you wrote was exactly the same except you need to put a capital M in Man. ~ To receive my Daily Devotion, Word Of Wisdom Daily Bible reading, please send a blank email to: donniedailydelights-subscr...@yahoogroups.com Please join us on Skype Monday thru Friday at 8:00 EST for our Morning Skype Prayer Time. Contact Me At: Donnie Parrett 1956 Asa Flat Road Annville, Kentucky 40402 Home Phone: 606-364-3321 Church Phone: 606-364-PRAY Skype Name: Donnie1261 Email: deparr...@prtcnet.org -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Rick Hume Sent: Tuesday, February 09, 2010 6:17 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Your thoughts for Improvements to this Group I hope I am giving this information correctly. For those that do not want to hear left bracket blind handyman right bracket and are using JAWS, while in your email program, open the JAWS dictionary (JAWS key + d) and add [BlindHandyman] In the next field where you put how you want it said, simply enter BHG Click on OK and don't forget to hit save to save your change. - Original Message - From: Spiro To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, February 09, 2010 4:16 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Your thoughts for Improvements to this Group I understand about roles, though I rarely use them. I don't want to inconvenience folks. I don't havea way to mute that as David suggested (thanks for that, it's quite cool). but it is 13 spaces that could be 3. I'll stop as I'm far too fond of this list to be bounced off. On Tue, 9 Feb 2010, Tom Hodges wrote: I agree with Spiro, as written below. It takes forever to go through the inbox, just to hear the subject matter. Is all that left bracket, right bracket, stuff necessary? If it is necessary, okay, but just wondering if it could be eliminated. Thanks. From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of sp...@iamspiro.com Sent: Tuesday, February 09, 2010 12:44 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Your thoughts for Improvements to this Group This might be stupid to some. But is it at all posible to shorten the list name in the subject field to something like [BHM]? The reason I ask is that the amount on a subject line could be more utilized without so much of it taken by the listname. For instance, blindaccesshelp is [bah[ and I'm sure we all know of others. Small change, I know. I love the list! On Tue, 9 Feb 2010, Ray Boyce wrote: Hi All Have you any positive thoughts for Improvements that could be undertaken to make this group better. Is there something that you would like to see happening that would make this membership better informed. Now that I am retired I have the time to do lots more research so please let us know how or what I can do to help you. Positive thoughts please no smart arse comments that does not help anyone. Ray [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_posit ion=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Why does my Propane heater burn so dirty?
Good question Jerry! And since you asked, I am wondering why my garage natural gas heater smells strongly like gas when operating. The unit is only a few years old, and I clean it out frequently, but I am now getting the gas smell when it's burning. - Original Message - From: Jerry Richer To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, February 01, 2010 4:19 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Why does my Propane heater burn so dirty? I have a 100 pound Propane tank outside the house. I have three Propane appliances that run off that tank. They are an ordinary cook stove, an ordinary double oven, and a Propane space heater. The stove and oven burn perfectly cleanly, no smell, nothing, just heat. The space heater gives off smoke, it stinks, and the walls all around the living room where the heater is are darkened about ten feet off the floor. Why do the stove and oven burn so cleanly and the heater so dirty? I know I'm supposed to clean the heater every year. Why is it that I never have to clean the stove or the oven? Thanks. Jerry [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] electrical outlet question
I agree with those that do not think using the light socket to tap in is a good idea. One other thing that I will add, is that you want to know what is on any line that you do tap into. For instance, it is not good to tap into the line that your washer and dryer are on. This line may have spiking issues caused by the appliances. Computers do not like spikes in the power flow. I learned the bad way years ago, and now have a dedicated line for my computer and peripherals. - Original Message - From: Jennifer Jackson To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, January 21, 2010 9:24 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] electrical outlet question Hello Everyone, I am doing a lot of reorganizing in my home since the flood last week. It has certainly encouraged me in my desire to downsize and declutter. One of the things I have done is to get rid of the giant desk that used to monopolize my dining room and I am planning to set up my computer and all it's accessories inside the closet that is under my stairs. Everything is going to fit nicely, but I am not certain about my best choice for the electrical supply. I could, of course, just run a power strip with a long cord around the corner to the nearest outlet outside the closet. This however creates an unsightly hazard that collects dust and stuff. There is a light socket on the wall, and I have considered getting one of those outlet adapters to screw into that, but I am concerned that it might not be meant to have that much of an electrical draw on it. My third idea is to use the bit on the drill that is used for installing deadbolts and making a small round whole in the wall that is shared with my living room and just plugging it into the outlet there. Lastly, I could have an electrician or some other skilled person install a new outlet in the closet. I want to be safe and use the minimum amount of expense and effort on this. So given that, what are your thoughts please? Jennifer [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan]clearing driveway
I had a man plow my drive for over ten years and he only charged me $15.00 each time. I thought it was a great deal, until he hit my insolated garage door and did $1100 damage. That is when I bought my first snow blower. - Original Message - From: Lenny McHugh To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 6:29 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan]clearing driveway Dale, around here there are guys with plows on pickup trucks that will clear a normal driveway for 10 or 15 dollars. A friend has not started his snow blower in 6 years. He said that it is not worth it for $10. - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens dleav...@puc.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 6:19 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Driveway Alarm Well, that is more or less how I feel about it. I think I would prefer to hire someone. For the price of the machine, storage in the summer, fuel, maintenance. Well I could afford quite a bit of wages. If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie - Original Message - From: RJ To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 10:45 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Driveway Alarm Good luck, I gave up on the snow blowing a while back, went I started into the woods and had to get some one to get me and the blower out. My driveway is only 650 feet. smile - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 23:06 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Driveway Alarm I have been considering a snow thrower again however similar concerns to yours and the outrageous cost of a desirable unit put me off. I share my drive with a neighbour, it is 32 feet wide and a little over 85 feet to the road. I can't run a noisy machine 85 feet in a straight line and I worry too about where the snow is actually flying, wouldn't want to throw a chunk of something through a neighbours car window or a passing pedestrian. All that notwithstanding, I had thought of setting a 4 foot length of iron pipe into a bucket of cement, 30 pounds or so, one at each end of the run with a light rope pulled between and use that as a guide. Maybe a little tedious moving the standards at the end of each run but it might require only 12 or 15 repetitions to cover the full 32 foot width. The other problem of course is that most of these machines now require both hands on the clutches to keep the thing in motion which leaves at least one too few for additional guidance. So far this winter we have mostly only had a couple of inches at a time although nearly every day but a big dump and I am going to be in trouble. We used to have a chap with a plough on the front of his truck but that isn't an option this year and my neighbour objects to having a front end loader on the new lock stone pavers. Like Bob, I expect you would need a very loud alarm to hear over the roar of a snow thrower and the ear covering required to keep the ears from freezing. Just why it hasn't become popular to make those engines quieter eludes me. Like those quad bikes and them darn special stinger mufflers they now seem to like on snow mobiles, sound like screaming farts on helium. If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie - Original Message - From: Rick Hume To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 11:38 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Driveway Alarm It's funny that you'd mention this, as I have been considering a similar project. When I snow blow the drive way, I am often alerted by the family, that I am no longer in the driveway, but actually in the street. I have been considering setting a couple of treated 4 by 4's at the end of my driveway, one on each side. I know that there are units that make use of a beam, that when it is broken can set off an alarm. I would like the alarms to be mounted on the poles as well, to alert me to the fact that I am near the end of the driveway. Has anyone else done something similar or have any suggestions. Thank you in advance for your contributions. - Original Message - From: Paul Franklin To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 9:39 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Driveway Alarm Dan's messages on wireless bad thing detectors have got me thinking about other wireless devices that can be used around the home. One such device that I have considered purchasing for a while is something to alert me when someone or something comes up my driveway and into my yard. Has anyone had any experience with any of the commercially available driveway alarms? If so what brand or model do you like or dislike? Are they fairly durable and reliable or do you have to throw them away after 6 months, like so many of the wireless
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Driveway Alarm
It's funny that you'd mention this, as I have been considering a similar project. When I snow blow the drive way, I am often alerted by the family, that I am no longer in the driveway, but actually in the street. I have been considering setting a couple of treated 4 by 4's at the end of my driveway, one on each side. I know that there are units that make use of a beam, that when it is broken can set off an alarm. I would like the alarms to be mounted on the poles as well, to alert me to the fact that I am near the end of the driveway. Has anyone else done something similar or have any suggestions. Thank you in advance for your contributions. - Original Message - From: Paul Franklin To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 9:39 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Driveway Alarm Dan's messages on wireless bad thing detectors have got me thinking about other wireless devices that can be used around the home. One such device that I have considered purchasing for a while is something to alert me when someone or something comes up my driveway and into my yard. Has anyone had any experience with any of the commercially available driveway alarms? If so what brand or model do you like or dislike? Are they fairly durable and reliable or do you have to throw them away after 6 months, like so many of the wireless door bells on today's market. Thanks for any info that you might be able to provide. Paul Franklin - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, January 17, 2010 8:28 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] multipurpose tool I own a Gerber as well. I like it very much, but I prefer a Swiss Army knife for the size. Although, I stopped carrying those as well, but recently picked up a UtiliKey from ThinkGeek.com it is quite literally the size of any of the other keys on my key ring. It has a vitiously sharp knife, bottle opener, flat head screw driver and philips screw driver. Good enough for slicing open packages, and opening a beer. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 4782 (20100118) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 4783 (20100118) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] All Purpose Knife
Right after I got my Gerber tool, I was doing a project at work and was getting impatient with the task, so grabbed my Gerber tool and extracted the saw and cut off the bothersome piece I was working with. I couldn't believe how well it worked, but felt bad that I'd likely dulled the blade by using it as I had. When I was done, however, I found that I hadn't dulled the blade at all. I was really impressed! - Original Message - From: Bob Kennedy To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, January 16, 2010 7:25 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] All Purpose Knife Gerber is probably the sharpest blade you can find. I didn't know they made something like Leatherman. - Original Message - From: Rick Hume To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, January 16, 2010 7:00 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] All Purpose Knife I and one of my employees both use the Gerber multi-purpose tool. It is very similar to the Leatherman unit with its features, but only costs about $30.00 and we feel it is a better constructed tool as well. - Original Message - From: William Stephan To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, January 16, 2010 6:13 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] All Purpose Knife Ray: I've had any number of these utility tools over the years, and I'd say Leatherman is the best out there. I have a Leatherman Wave, which Has a standard knife, serrated knife, saw and double-sided file/ruler available without opening the tool. Upon opening the tool you of course have pliers and wire cutters, and a wide-bladed screwdriver, a Phillips screw driver a lanyard ring and a combination bottle/can opener on one side, and cyzors, two narrower screw driver blades and an awl on the other. The outside blades do lock, but the inner ones do not, though they're pretty stiff and the likelihood of accidentally closing them is probably pretty low. I also have the Leatherman Super tool II, which I would say is somewhat more ruggedly constructed than the Wave is. You have to open the Super Tool II to access any tools however. When you open the body, just like the Wave, you have the standard plyers/cutters, and there is a Phillips head screw driver, seraded knife, saw, comination bottle can opener and narrow-bladed screw driver on one side. The other side of the tool has a standard knife, double-sided file, one wide and one medium screw driver blade. So I guess the bottom line is that you sacrifice the cyzers for the heavier duty construction with the Super Tool. I used to hang out wit some dog mushes and other Alaskan types at various times, and they seemed to prefer the Super Tool style. It's pretty easy to adjust the blade torque (I guess that's what we'd call it), on the Super Tool, but I think you'd haee to have some kind of specialty driver to do that on the Wave, if it's even possible. Tgese are not cheap by any means, and I once bought some knock-offs made by Nickelson. I actually broke the plyers on two of those, so I guess the steel they were made of was inferior. -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ray Boyce Sent: Saturday, January 16, 2010 15:58 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] All Purpose Knife Hi All I am looking around for an all purpose knife with multiple attachments on it, got any ideas what is the best. Ray [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] All Purpose Knife
I and one of my employees both use the Gerber multi-purpose tool. It is very similar to the Leatherman unit with its features, but only costs about $30.00 and we feel it is a better constructed tool as well. - Original Message - From: William Stephan To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, January 16, 2010 6:13 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] All Purpose Knife Ray: I've had any number of these utility tools over the years, and I'd say Leatherman is the best out there. I have a Leatherman Wave, which Has a standard knife, serrated knife, saw and double-sided file/ruler available without opening the tool. Upon opening the tool you of course have pliers and wire cutters, and a wide-bladed screwdriver, a Phillips screw driver a lanyard ring and a combination bottle/can opener on one side, and cyzors, two narrower screw driver blades and an awl on the other. The outside blades do lock, but the inner ones do not, though they're pretty stiff and the likelihood of accidentally closing them is probably pretty low. I also have the Leatherman Super tool II, which I would say is somewhat more ruggedly constructed than the Wave is. You have to open the Super Tool II to access any tools however. When you open the body, just like the Wave, you have the standard plyers/cutters, and there is a Phillips head screw driver, seraded knife, saw, comination bottle can opener and narrow-bladed screw driver on one side. The other side of the tool has a standard knife, double-sided file, one wide and one medium screw driver blade. So I guess the bottom line is that you sacrifice the cyzers for the heavier duty construction with the Super Tool. I used to hang out wit some dog mushes and other Alaskan types at various times, and they seemed to prefer the Super Tool style. It's pretty easy to adjust the blade torque (I guess that's what we'd call it), on the Super Tool, but I think you'd haee to have some kind of specialty driver to do that on the Wave, if it's even possible. Tgese are not cheap by any means, and I once bought some knock-offs made by Nickelson. I actually broke the plyers on two of those, so I guess the steel they were made of was inferior. -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ray Boyce Sent: Saturday, January 16, 2010 15:58 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] All Purpose Knife Hi All I am looking around for an all purpose knife with multiple attachments on it, got any ideas what is the best. Ray [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Chimney Top Cover
I would imagine that you may be able to buy a box built for this purpose, as the last owners of my home installed one on one of our unused stacks. It's just a metal box that fits over the opening. - Original Message - From: Tom Hodges To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2010 8:53 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Chimney Top Cover I have a 115 year old house and the chimney tops are the clay decorative type. They are about 30 to 34 inches high, the bottom ends are about 10 to 12 inches square, and the tops are about 9 or 10 inches in diameter. Here is the problem. I want to plug them at the top, to keep out rain, but also to keep them from drawing air out of the house because the dampers are not air tight. I have 5 of them and four are from fireplaces that are no longer in use, and one is the vent for my water heater. I want to plug the ones that are for the fire places because I will be using bventless gas log sets ultimately. Does anyone know of a way to plug them at the top? I am aware of the sheep metal tops to keep out the rain, but I want to plug them to be air tight. Any ideas? Thanks, Tom , Newport, Kentucky [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] roter zip
I have owned a radial arm saw for about 35 years. They are simple to use after you get them set up for the cut you desire, but take a bit more setting up than some other styles of saws. Even though I have a table saw, compound miter saw, etc., I still find myself using my radial arm saw a good amount of the time. I particularly like it for making a fast 90 degree cross-cut. - Original Message - From: Blaine Deutscher To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, January 09, 2010 2:26 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] roter zip Hello there. what is the differents between this and a regular roter? when we built a shed in grade 12 we took the roter to cut out the door and window. I did it using the hand over hand method so not really sure how someone would go about cutting a hole out of wood. It was a sighted teacher that was really good at accomidating, or finding a way that I could use the plainer and saws by myself. I had a braille measuring tape and used masking tape (the one on the role that you rip off) to mark my measurements and then did my work. The only thing that I didn't use, and would love to k know how, was the radial arm saw. Blaine [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] roto zip
I have one, but mainly bought it to cut through dry wall around the electric outlet boxes. I felt it would also assist when doing cut-outs for fans, etc. I often have made cardboard patterns for simple cut-outs, like squares and circles, and just follow around with my cut-out tools. Seems to work for me. - Original Message - From: Carl To: David Greenwood ; blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2010 8:17 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] roto zip hav any of you chaps had a play with a roto zip or spiral saw? how do thay handle? are thay manlie for cutting thin sheets like ply? [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] roto zip
I agree entirely Tom, but as with many specialized tools, how much easier could he have cut out the opening. I always reflect upon my radial arm saw. When I bought it from Sears thirty years ago, the salesman said it would do everything for you except make a cup of good coffee. I always wondered if that meant that it could make a fair cup of coffee. It does many things, but many of the things it does can be done much better using a specialized tool. - Original Message - From: Tom Vos To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2010 8:04 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] roto zip I saw someone use it for cutting out holes in the ceiling drywall. It worked well, because he was able to let the Roto Zip run along the metal ring of the recessed ceiling light he was putting in. But it seems it would have limited use. Blessings, Tom -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Carl Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2010 1:19 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] roto zip cud'nt you use it like a router in that hav a pin on the side foloing an outline for makeing shapes? - Original Message - From: William Stephan To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2010 7:10 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] roto zip If you had enough eyesight to follow an outline, a rotozip would probably be fine. If not, it's not practical. The blades are not like drill bits, they're very sharp, and you can seriously mangle your fingers if they come into contact with the blade while it's spinning. -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Carl Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2010 07:18 To: David Greenwood; blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] roto zip hav any of you chaps had a play with a roto zip or spiral saw? how do thay handle? are thay manlie for cutting thin sheets like ply? [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] drain cleaners
I usually use the coil wire style of snake that is in a housing that allows for the attaching of a drill. These are available at most home improvement centers. You will need to enter the line you want to clean beyond areas that might impede entry of the snake. For instance, it is not uncommon for a tub drain to be secured with a screw. If you remove the drain, you will see that this is not a good entry area, as there is a blockage caused by the bracket for the drain screw. On most tubs I've seen, there is an entry door that will expose the tub plumbing and allow you entry into the tub main drain line. I usually advance the snake slowly, introducing only about 6 inches of line each time, while letting the drills spinning action clean out the new area before advancing further into the line. Most of the time the blockage will be broke up and moved down the line. You will get hair back with the snake, as it gets caught on the end of the snake. I hope this helps. - Original Message - From: Blaine Deutscher To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 7:06 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] drain cleaners so how does this snake work? How do you take off the top of the drain from the sink or tub to put the snake down? How often do you clean it out? I thougth about getting a drain snake or something like it and love the idea that I can attach it to a drill. Might check out Canadian tire this week to see if they sell them and for how much. When you clean it do you have to reatch in and scoop out the crap that is collected in their or just wash it down with hot water? Blaine - Original Message - From: Rick Hume To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2010 11:30 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] drain cleaners It is my experience that you want to be careful when using chemicals to clean drains. Many of today's chemicals are quite toxic and can actually damage your plumbing. It is best to attempt clearing a drain by using a plunger or plumbing snake. Often, removing and cleaning the trap can fix the problem. A plumbing snake will almost always clear the problem. I use a snake that allows for attaching a drill. It'll clean her out like new! - Original Message - From: Lee A. Stone To: Blind Handyman Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2010 11:23 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] drain cleaners is there a more powerfull drain cleaner that we can buy over the counter besides Mr.Plumber. I am referring I think to hair in one drain and not sure what they put down the kitchen sink. thanks. Lee -- Wanna buy a duck? . [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] drain cleaners
It is my experience that you want to be careful when using chemicals to clean drains. Many of today's chemicals are quite toxic and can actually damage your plumbing. It is best to attempt clearing a drain by using a plunger or plumbing snake. Often, removing and cleaning the trap can fix the problem. A plumbing snake will almost always clear the problem. I use a snake that allows for attaching a drill. It'll clean her out like new! - Original Message - From: Lee A. Stone To: Blind Handyman Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2010 11:23 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] drain cleaners is there a more powerfull drain cleaner that we can buy over the counter besides Mr.Plumber. I am referring I think to hair in one drain and not sure what they put down the kitchen sink. thanks. Lee -- Wanna buy a duck? . [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] drain cleaners
I sympathize with you on this subject. I have purchased the coil style snakes that attach to a drill and have them go to heck in a short time. I think the main thing is not to run the drill wide open. If you use a variable drill and keep the speed low, the drill bit assembly built into the snake housing seems to hold up better. I don't know why they can't build some quality into these units. The one I am currently using goes out of the drive gear easily and has since it was new. I was about to pitch it, but found that if I pull back on the drill, while holding onto the front handle of the snake where the snake comes out of the housing, the gear assembly will work fine. I hope that makes sense. - Original Message - From: Lee A. Stone To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2010 4:23 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] drain cleaners I need to get a new snake for the end of the drill as the one we bought at Home Depot lasted all of 5 minutes. thanks. Lee On Sat, Jan 02, 2010 at 12:30:53PM -0500, Rick Hume wrote: It is my experience that you want to be careful when using chemicals to clean drains. Many of today's chemicals are quite toxic and can actually damage your plumbing. It is best to attempt clearing a drain by using a plunger or plumbing snake. Often, removing and cleaning the trap can fix the problem. A plumbing snake will almost always clear the problem. I use a snake that allows for attaching a drill. It'll clean her out like new! - Original Message - From: Lee A. Stone To: Blind Handyman Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2010 11:23 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] drain cleaners is there a more powerfull drain cleaner that we can buy over the counter besides Mr.Plumber. I am referring I think to hair in one drain and not sure what they put down the kitchen sink. thanks. Lee -- Wanna buy a duck? . [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] -- You worry too much about your job. Stop it. You are not paid enough to worry. . [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
