Re: [Elecraft] RE: K2 with USB anytime soon??
Right on. That's how USB connectivity was incorporated into our latest product line. The FTDI part interfaces with a UART on the microcontroller on one side, and a normal USB host port on the PC. FTDI furnishes a USB driver and an application level DLL which our PC hosted control software calls into to move data into and out of the interface. We bit the bullet and signed on with the USB consortium to get our own Vendor Id number. The hardest part is figuring out how to manage the EEPROM holding the USB device descriptor and checksum, so as to give the FTDI part it's new identity (documentation was sketchy). Also the distribution of the driver, application DLL, and .inf file had to be worked out, as was the management of USB serial numbers in mfg. But really no big deal, the investment in the serial protocol is preserved, and no USB driver needs to be written from scratch. Anyway, the FTDI part makes tunnelling an existing serial protocol through the USB port easy and our customers are happy since they can use USB natively on their new laptops without RS232 ports. They hate converters since the use case is temporary setups in the field for maintenance and diagnostics - they want a minimum of cables and whatnot to lug around and fuss with. Bob NW8L On 6/18/06, Hisashi T Fujinaka [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Most small-volume projects I've seen just use the FTDI USB to serial interface. Basically it moves the USB-to-serial interface into the project. Not real sure if it's hard to use, but check out the WinKey USB to see an example. I also have a PIC programmer that uses the same chip. The serial works on my Mac and my PC. In other words, I don't think it's that big a deal. -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KX 1 WITH 20M PROBLEMS
Thanks to all that helped me with this 20m loss of T/R issue... My final solution (after this groups' help and much schematic study and rumination) was to remove K1 relay and replace it. THIS IS NOT EASY amd I almost sent it to Elecraft Tech support First You need to remove the capacitor soldered across K1 relay pins 2 and Then take a pair of side cutters and cut (and crunch) the relay down to the circuit board (carefully!). Then take a desoldering tool - and without melting any of the very close adjacent components like transistors,pots and several caps, melt, section and suction away K1 and remove the remaining leads and solder... NOTE: Removing K1 is made more difficult because I was talked into using 63/37 solder (it is the industry standard HUMBUG!)and not my old favorate (and hard to find) 60/40 which stays plyable and workable longer. (this reworkability is a big advantage, I have now discovered, to using 60/45) Well I replace K1 and the jumpered cap and that was the problem. The board survived; the rig works great; I got a few more gray hairs!!! Thank you all again for the guidance and suggestions.. NOW to build the KX-1 antenna tuner 73 DE Ken K1UM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] RE: K2 with USB anytime soon??
- Original Message - From: Francis Belliveau [EMAIL PROTECTED] So until there is a better generic communications standard, I say that the serial port is still the best choice for a small non-computer company like Elecraft. Users only need to know which port they have attached their equipment to, and if your machine doesn't have any then you can but one that attaches to your USB port. 100% spot-on. Elecraft's K2 has no need for USB, another argument in favour of RS-232 is the maximum cable length. Simon Brown --- http://blog.hb9drv.ch/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 and USB
When I was in Dayton for FDIM, I posed this very question and the official response was: It would be too expensive and time-consuming to go back and re-design the K2 to have a USB port. It also requires changing code, and there is not a whole lot of space left to add it. Most of the computers and software in ham shacks are older and the software used often requires a serial port. And besides, there are many good serial to USB adapters out there. However, USB ports are being considered for future products still under development. So this seems to mirror the comments posted earlier. Dan WB4NMR KX1 #1509 working my way up to a K2 -- To make a difference, one must first be different. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Duplicating KPA100 filters
Another source might be http://www.communication-concepts.com/ Look for Products-Products-Filters Benny OH9NB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Wayne...Eric...K2 with USB anytime soon??
In a message dated 6/18/06 11:55:26 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: IBM's EBDBIC (?) code. I think you meant EBCDIC (Extended Binary Coded Decimal Interchange Code). -- On the subject of USB vs. RS-232, IMHO it's a design philosophy issue. The design philosophy of the K2 is clearly one of getting the most performance from the least complexity cost. USB was around back in 1999, but to implement it in the K2 then or now would mean a big jump in complexity cost *without* a corresponding jump in performance. There's also the Elecraft philosophy of not making things that are already well-made by others. That's why you don't see Elecraft making power supplies - Astron and others already do that job. The emergence of inexpensive RS-232/USB converters solves the problem handily at low cost, and the special remove-this-pin interface cable can be incorporated into the converter lashup. Problem solved! Elegantly, too. 73 de Jim, N2EY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Proset
Hi; I have a Heil Proset that I got from Elecraft. I hooked up according to spec sheet, jumpers on all pins on the header and 5.6k res pins 1 to6 on mic socket. This works fine if I key the K-2 with my straight key. I have a Heil foot switch I use with my IC-746 and Heil ICM. I ordered a new AD-1k adapter but that is'nt the problem. I have a Radio Shack mic that works fine ( # 1 audio, # 2 ptt and 78 gnd). Anyone have any ideas? Thanks Phil (# 5423) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Duplicating the KPA100 LP filters
Vicd Rosenthal wrote: I'm thinking about duplicating the KPA100 LP filter section so I can use this amp as an output stage for another rig. This sounds like a no-brainer, but I wonder if there's any reason not to do this? Also, does anyone know the manufacturer and model number of the relays (K3-K12) that Elecraft used? I would have to take my KPA apart to look! --- Hi Vic, My KPA100 purchased in early 2003 uses OMRON type G6E - 134P - ST -US relays for K3 - K12 (and K1, K2). Unless I'm mistaken the contact rating is 0.4A @ 125VAC or 2.0A @ 30VDC which seems to be a bit 'light', but no problems so far. My KAT100, same vintage, uses HASCD KL1TC 12DC12 relays for K1 - K18, contacts rated at 12A @ 28VDC. This rating is typical for use at 100W HF RF with a good safety margin. I would strongly recommend that you include a lowpass filter between the KPA100 filters and your antenna tuner (or antenna if no tuner is used), whose cutoff is around 32 MHz. HF LP Filters including the type used in the KPA100, especially when densely packaged, can exhibit 'peaks' of low attenuation at VHF and UHF upwards. Toroidal coils do talk to one another to some degree. 73, Geoff GM4ESD ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Proset
Phil, You didn't say what you real problem may be. If the mic works fine when you activate PTT with the key, then the mic itself is working properly and whatever problem must be in the adapter. The adapter is nothing but wires going from the jacks to the 8 pin mic plug. It sounds like the AD-1k adapter is not correctly wired for operation with the footswitch for use with the K2. You should be able to de-bug it easily with an ohmmeter. Plug a phone plug into the footswitch jack on the adapter and check continuity between the tip and pin 2 and also chack continuity between the shell and either pin 7 or pin 8. If you have continuity in both cases, the footswitch should activate the PTT in the K2. If you find no continuity from the footswitch jack shell to either pin 7 or pin 8, then check to see if the footswitch jack shell is wired to the shell of the mic jack - if it is, that is in error, but will work if you ground the K2 mic jack. In this case, the better alternative is to rewire the adapter plug. The fact that you apparently have 2 adapters that do not work with the footswitch indicates to me that HeilSound is connecting the shell of the footswitch jack to the shell of the 8 pin mic plug when they should be using either pin 7 or pin 8 for proper operation with the K2. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I have a Heil Proset that I got from Elecraft. I hooked up according to spec sheet, jumpers on all pins on the header and 5.6k res pins 1 to6 on mic socket. This works fine if I key the K-2 with my straight key. I have a Heil foot switch I use with my IC-746 and Heil ICM. I ordered a new AD-1k adapter but that is'nt the problem. I have a Radio Shack mic that works fine ( # 1 audio, # 2 ptt and 78 gnd). Anyone have any ideas? Thanks Phil (# 5423) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.0/368 - Release Date: 6/16/2006 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KXPD1 screw
I would not use a lock washer, I would use a flat washer...A lock washer is intended to permanently anchor a nut or screw..(bolt ?)The sharp edges on it bite into the metal...In the case of the KXPD1 paddle, the body of the paddle is aluminum, a relatively soft metal...Since the paddle will most likely removed and re-attached often, the lock washer would gradually chew it's way into the body of the paddle, eventually defeating it's purpose as a spacer and marring the paddle... Jerry, wa2dkg Thanks to all that helped me with this issue... My final solution was to add a #6 lock washer (this was almost enough) then to carefully disk the end of the knerled Bolt (the group seems to call it aq screw) with a drummel.. Dah Dah it is fixed... Thank you all agian Ken K1UM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] What's wrong with Serial
My take on this is that they wanted to have serial data AND the Elecraft control bus in one cable. As long as you know not to use a standard cable, you are good to go. Just read and follow the directions. Stan Rife W5EWA Houston, TX K2 S/N 4216 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Paul Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2006 11:56 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] What's wrong with Serial It seems to me the glaring error with Elecraft's serial port implementation is the ability to blow the I/O card out of the water if you use anything but the special K2 serial cable. They should have designed it so you could use an off the shelf serial cable. Way too much damage exposure. Really seems out of character to the rest of the rig options. 73, Paul ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K-2 Serial Number 04242
I am happy to announce that K-2, serial number 04242 is ALIVE and working. It went together without a hitch and works as expected. Great radio!!! Mac k4CHS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 keyer, maybe not the best?
Lately I've used my straight key for CW most of the time. In prep for field day I've been hitting the paddles a bit to try to get my fist back. I was also trying to decide whether or not to use my external Idiom CMOS-4 keyer or the internal K2 keyer. So, true to form, I did some testing with both last night. I tried sending at 25 wpm (fast for me) with the K2's keyer in both Iambic A and B modes. I made just a few less mistakes using B but it was hard to tell the difference. I then switched to the Logikey CMOS-4 keyer and found my error rate went down just a little bit. The change was small and in fact may be noise but I found the Logikey followed me (or I followed it) just a bit better than the K2's internal keyer. Anyone else have similar (or different) results with internal vs. external keyers? - Keith KD1E - - K2 5411 - ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Wish List and/or Modification
This may be silly, but one of the things that I don't like about my K2 and KAT-100 is the grounding screw. What I would really like to see is a standard screw type Banana Jack. It is more of an issue for me as I move the rig back and forth between two QTH's and that is the most difficult part of the task. (I know, Do you want some cheese with that whine? The little plastic topped screw is just too small. I replaced both of those recently with computer case screws that have bigger and easier to grip plastic tops. There were made to replace case screws on computers to alow easier access. I found a little bag of 'em I bought a while back and they're the same thread as the Elecraft supplied part, much easier to grip. PEM makes them. Cheers, Julius n2wn ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX 1 WITH 20M PROBLEMS
NOTE: Removing K1 is made more difficult because I was talked into using 63/37 solder (it is the industry standard HUMBUG!)and not my old favorate (and hard to find) 60/40 which stays plyable and workable longer. (this reworkability is a big advantage, I have now discovered, to using 60/45) Chip Quick is a low melting temperature solder and works well for removing multi-pin components. You apply the flux, glob on the solder, and it stays molten for a long time as you remove the component. Then you use solder wick to clean up the solder from the board and alchohol to remove the flux. Looks messy while in process but works very well. Available at Fry's Electronics and Circuit Specialists, Inc. (www.web-tronics.com) Not cheap, but very effective. de Paul, W8AEF ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KXPD1 screw
What I did was to put a couple small drops Liquid Electrical Tape on the paddles around the screw on the side that goes against the KX1 case and after it dried well there was no more slipping when attached. 73 - Mike WA8BXN ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Wish List and/or Modification
Julius, Find a 5-way binding post with a 6-32 threaded stud and screw it into the hole where the grounding screw normally mounts. Take a 6-32 nut along to the local hamfest - caution, some of the threads on the new binding posts are metric sizes. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- This may be silly, but one of the things that I don't like about my K2 and KAT-100 is the grounding screw. What I would really like to see is a standard screw type Banana Jack. It is more of an issue for me as I move the rig back and forth between two QTH's and that is the most difficult part of the task. (I know, Do you want some cheese with that whine? The little plastic topped screw is just too small. I replaced both of those recently with computer case screws that have bigger and easier to grip plastic tops. There were made to replace case screws on computers to alow easier access. I found a little bag of 'em I bought a while back and they're the same thread as the Elecraft supplied part, much easier to grip. PEM makes them. Cheers, Julius n2wn ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.1/369 - Release Date: 6/19/2006 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 keyer, maybe not the best?
Keith: Unfortunately, you really can't tell much about one keyer vs. another with just a short trial. The best thing to do is simply pick one and use it. As you get used to it, you'll get better and better, regardless of which you pick. The nice element of the K2's internal keyer is that you don't need to trek another box and power consumer along. I don't know if you have the autospacing feature going with the Logikey, but this could initially make for less errors because it won't let you ride one letter up on the preceding one. However, once you have the right rhythm going in your head, either keyer should be fine. I find, strangely, that the Elecraft B mode is more similar to the Logikey than the A mode. best wishes, dave belsley, w1euy On Jun 19, 2006, at 10:46 AM, Darwin, Keith wrote: Lately I've used my straight key for CW most of the time. In prep for field day I've been hitting the paddles a bit to try to get my fist back. I was also trying to decide whether or not to use my external Idiom CMOS-4 keyer or the internal K2 keyer. So, true to form, I did some testing with both last night. I tried sending at 25 wpm (fast for me) with the K2's keyer in both Iambic A and B modes. I made just a few less mistakes using B but it was hard to tell the difference. I then switched to the Logikey CMOS-4 keyer and found my error rate went down just a little bit. The change was small and in fact may be noise but I found the Logikey followed me (or I followed it) just a bit better than the K2's internal keyer. Anyone else have similar (or different) results with internal vs. external keyers? - Keith KD1E - - K2 5411 - ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com - david a. belsley professor of economics ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Lost your list Password? - Here's how to get it.
If you have misplaced your elecraft list password, or if you never received it, here is how to get it sent to you again. Go to: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft and scroll to the bottom of the page. Enter your email address (the one you used for the list) and click on 'Edit Options'. This takes you to your personal list options page. One of the buttons on that page is labeled 'Email my password to me'. Once you have your password, go to the above link and enter it to change your subscription parameters (digest mode, unsub etc.) 73, Eric WA6HHQ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] crikey! please edit replies down and delete extra footers
When replying to emails on the list, please remember to edit down the copied text to the minimum needed to retain context. One or two sentences from the original post are usually sufficient. This keeps the list and archive volume down and makes everything much more readable. *** Don't forget to delete the list footer message too or you will have multiple copies of it in your reply. A large part of our readers get the list in daily digest mode. When large amounts of previous posts are copied over and over it makes the digest very large and virtually unreadable. Also, many of our readers outside the U.S. pay for email by the kB and are using slower modems. Brevity in your posts helps a lot there. :-) 73 from your friendly Elecraft list manager Eric WA6HHQ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Wish List and/or Modification
http://www.mouser.com/?handler=data.listcategoryNe=200terms=binding+posts; Ntt=*binding*%2b*posts*crc=falseNs=SFieldN=1620 Glad I could help. 73 Jim, W4ATK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KXB30 installation problem on a KX1
Hello everybody, My KX1 construction is going well. The basic 20/40 rig is all done and I have even had a couple of QSO’s on those bands. I am now working on the KXB30 option and I am having a small problem with installing it on top of the main board. I have flush-trimmed everything as close to the KXB30 board as possible, but I can’t get the two small rubber pads to stick to the board. The solder joints make for a slightly uneven surface, and the adhesive on the rubber pads is almost nonexistent. I have checked all of my clearances and everything looks OK. As a matter of fact, the rubber pads do not even come in contact with the top of the box when everything is reassembled. (The trimmer caps also line up fine with their holes.) Under these circumstances should I … a) just leave off the rubber pads? or b) use a drop of glue (what kind) to attach the pads to the KXB30 board? or c) just install one of the rubber pads at the center of the KXB30 board where there are no solder pads? Thanks in advance for any advice that you can offer! 73, Paul – N8XMS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] What's wrong with Serial
Its a dual purpose port. I run two cables out of the port, one is short pig tail that is strictly RS-232 and terminates in a female connector that can plug into a standard serial cable. The other is the control cable that I use to feed the transverters. Keeps the two uses separate and avoids connection problems. On Sun, 18 Jun 2006 21:55:39 -0700, Paul [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: It seems to me the glaring error with Elecraft's serial port implementation is the ability to blow the I/O card out of the water if you use anything but the special K2 serial cable. They should have designed it so you could use an off the shelf serial cable. Way too much damage exposure. Really seems out of character to the rest of the rig options. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] What's wrong with Serial
On Jun 19, 2006, at 12:55 AM, Paul wrote: It seems to me the glaring error with Elecraft's serial port implementation is the ability to blow the I/O card out of the water if you use anything but the special K2 serial cable. They should have designed it so you could use an off the shelf serial cable. Way too much damage exposure. Really seems out of character to the rest of the rig options. The basic issue is that the DB-9 connector on the K2 does double- duty. It serves both as a serial connection and as an AUXBUS extension for external devices, such as the KAT100 or the KRC2. Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Quote: Not within a thousand years will man ever fly! -- Wilbur Wright, 1901 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] OT: Hakko and Icom PS wired for 220VAC
Julius - In order to support both global voltages 100/120/220/240 - an appliance's transformer requires multiple primaries or voltage specific taps. For the Hakko soldering station you can start with the Hakko USA web site, found here: http://www.hakkousa.com/2006/default_1.asp?Assistant=Dinky Which Hakko model number ?? This is the model 936-12 http://www.hakkousa.com/2006/detail.asp?CID=49SCID=112PID=1250Page=1 For the Model 936-12, the replacement part is Part No: B2228, TRANSFORMER for 936 model You can contact Hakko USA via toll-free telephone call: 1-800-88-HAKKO (42556) They can advise best method for receiving this part (direct, distributor, dealer). For the Icom power supply, the specific manuals can be found at the Icom Global Support web site (Japan) http://www.icom.co.jp/world/support/index.htm Greg w9gb BTW, this is the advantage of Hakko US, over the past couple of years - better web site and ability to purchase ANY individual part of current production models!! - Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2006 10:21:47 -0700 (PDT) From: J F [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Hakko and Icom PS wired for 220VAC To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Someone I know has several items from a stay in Hong Kong wired for 220. One is a Hakko Soldering station, the other is an Icom Power Supply. I don't have the model numbers. Can they be rewired internally for 110 service? I suspect the Icom can, if it's anything like Yaesu supplies. Thanks in advance for any help, Julius n2wn ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] NAQCC Milliwatt Sprint tomorrow night
Folks, Please remember tomorrow night (Tuesday night) is a special one hour, milliwatt Sprint sponsored by the North American QRP CW Club. The Sprint will take place on 40 Meters only and will be from 7:00 to 8:00PM your LOCAL time. Please check out the details at: http://www.arm-tek.net/~yoel/sprint200606_special.html Special certificates will be awarded: 1. For the highest score from a portable. 2. For any SWL who sends in a log So dust off your Rockmite, HiMite, Pixie, Tiny Tornado, Tuna Tin 2 or whatever; and join us tomorrow night! 73 de Larry W2LJ -- Larry W2LJ QRP - When you care to send the very least! http://www.qsl.net/w2lj http://w2lj.blogspot.com/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] NAQCC Milliwatt Sprint tomorrow night
Larry Makoski W2LJ wrote: So dust off your Rockmite, HiMite, Pixie, Tiny Tornado, Tuna Tin 2 or whatever; and join us tomorrow night! 73 de Larry W2LJ Of course, it's also quite easy to crank back the power of your K1, K2 or KX1. That's what I plan to do! 73 de Larry W2LJ -- Larry W2LJ QRP - When you care to send the very least! http://www.qsl.net/w2lj http://w2lj.blogspot.com/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] NAQCC Milliwatt Sprint tomorrow night
What time is the sprint? Bill -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Larry Makoski W2LJ Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 7:58 PM Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Elecraft] NAQCC Milliwatt Sprint tomorrow night Larry Makoski W2LJ wrote: So dust off your Rockmite, HiMite, Pixie, Tiny Tornado, Tuna Tin 2 or whatever; and join us tomorrow night! 73 de Larry W2LJ Of course, it's also quite easy to crank back the power of your K1, K2 or KX1. That's what I plan to do! 73 de Larry W2LJ -- Larry W2LJ QRP - When you care to send the very least! http://www.qsl.net/w2lj http://w2lj.blogspot.com/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] OT: Flat Panel Display Died
Way OT! I was hoping that some of you computer types could reply to me Off List with some possible fixes. I have a 4 year old Dell Flat Panel Display that seemed to die during what may have been a power surge. My Satellite System died as well, but worked again when I re-booted it. Both were plugged into surge protectors so go figure. :-) I took the back panel off to see if the power supply fuse was blown, but the fuse was good - just no powering up at all for the monitor. I'm using a substitute flat panel display which is working well, so it's definitely the unit. Any ideas? Any things that go bad routinely in these units? Thanks for helping and please respond Off List. 73 Paul W9BBR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] NAQCC Milliwatt Sprint tomorrow night
What time is the sprint? Bill -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Larry Makoski W2LJ Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 7:58 PM Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Elecraft] NAQCC Milliwatt Sprint tomorrow night Larry Makoski W2LJ wrote: So dust off your Rockmite, HiMite, Pixie, Tiny Tornado, Tuna Tin 2 or whatever; and join us tomorrow night! 73 de Larry W2LJ Of course, it's also quite easy to crank back the power of your K1, K2 or KX1. That's what I plan to do! 73 de Larry W2LJ -- Larry W2LJ QRP - When you care to send the very least! http://www.qsl.net/w2lj http://w2lj.blogspot.com/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] What's wrong with Serial
Bill, AA4LR, wrote: The basic issue is that the DB-9 connector on the K2 does double- duty. It serves both as a serial connection and as an AUXBUS extension for external devices, such as the KAT100 or the KRC2. - I have run into this situation in many other places as well over the 30+ years I've worked with RS232 interfaces. People jump to a very wrong assumption that RS232 defines the connections at a given cable connector. That's like assuming that any Anderson PowerPole connector you see has 13.8 VDC on it. Bad assumption! RS232 is a signaling protocol, not a cable pinout scheme. So when the K2 manual refers to RS232 communications available it does NOT mean that the cable connections are similar to any other RS232 equipment. It only means that the lines in the cable dedicated to RS232 signaling use that protocol. As far as I know, there is NO such thing as a RS232 cable. There may be standard cables that are commonly used for RS232 interfaces, but that's a coincidence, not part of the specification. We often digress here about how taking short-cuts in proper terminology leads innocent people into disaster. This is one of them. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Melted J3 Connector on K2/100
Well, I was giving the K2/100 heck (100 watts) on 40 meters tonight into a nice load (1.2) and things start stinking a little when I turn it back over to the other station. I had been sending code at around 18 wpm for about 10 minutes. I am running a Astron switching power supply. Then the rig shut off and did not come on again. The heat sink was not all that hot, but I noticed the large gauge wire and the fuse holder was warmer than what I would expect. The 20 amp fuse was not blown. I pulled the Anderson Power pole plugsand the RED side of the plug is melted while the black plug is not. The RED Anderson Power Pole connector on the K2 is also slighly deformed from melting. I took the K2 over to another supply on the bench and the K2 came up. Looking at the schmaticI must have drawn to much current for the connectors. Hardly seems to be plausible. What do you experts think here? Lee - K0WA In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply. If you don't have any Common Sense - get some and use it. If you can't find any common sense, ask for help from somebody who has some common sense. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Melted J3 Connector on K2/100
Lee, KOWA wrote: Well, I was giving the K2/100 heck (100 watts) on 40 meters tonight into a nice load (1.2) and things start stinking a little when I turn it back over to the other station. I had been sending code at around 18 wpm for about 10 minutes. I am running a Astron switching power supply. Then the rig shut off and did not come on again. The heat sink was not all that hot, but I noticed the large gauge wire and the fuse holder was warmer than what I would expect. The 20 amp fuse was not blown. I pulled the Anderson Power pole plugsand the RED side of the plug is melted while the black plug is not. The RED Anderson Power Pole connector on the K2 is also slighly deformed from melting. I took the K2 over to another supply on the bench and the K2 came up. Looking at the schmaticI must have drawn to much current for the connectors. Hardly seems to be plausible. What do you experts think here? --- You should have been drawing something like 15 to 18 amps, peak key down, from the power supply at 100 watts. Sending CW, that's likely something in the range of 10 amps on average (the sending speed has nothing to do with the duty cycle: 2 wpm and 200 wpm with the same Morse text has the same duty cycle). That certainly should not overhead those Anderson connectors or damage the K2. It sounds like it's a problem at the connector, since the rig works FB once you connect it to another cable. The way a cable connector overheats is by the resistance in the connection at the terminals. If the resistance were zero, you could draw millions of amps through it and it'd stay perfectly cool. Unfortunately, the resistance might be very low compared to what we're used to, but it's no where near zero! So there is always some heating of the connector and wire. That's what the amperage rating is based upon for both connectors and wire: the amount of resistance they show. So if you melted your Anderson connector, it had unusually high resistance for some reason. I can think of two reasons for that: 1) What I'd consider the most likely is a bad contact between the two halves of the connector when they were mated. That's easy to make happen with an Anderson connector *if* you fail to push the contacts all the way forward in the housing! If they aren't all the way in, the tabs will just touch over a small area, producing a relatively poor connection that will heat up badly. The KPA100 manual advises making sure the wires cannot be pulled back out. That's one way to ensure the terminals are fully inserted. If you'd like to see photographs of properly (and improperly) inserted Anderson connector terminals, download a copy of the Transverter Assembly Manual for the XV432 Transverter. That's the Assembly Manual, not the XV Owner's Manual. Properly and improperly installed terminals in Anderson connectors are shown in photographs in Figure 27 on Page 33. 2) The other possibility is a bad connection between the cable wire and the terminal in the connector. That's why the manual advises soldering, not just crimping, the cable to the connector. A little bit of resistance right there can turn the assembly into a powerful heating element that will cause a lot of trouble. Be sure your wires are securely soldered to the terminals. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Melted J3 Connector on K2/100
So if you melted your Anderson connector, it had unusually high resistance for some reason. Ron AC7AC - And a relativly large voltage drop. This would show up as a low voltage at the rig. This is why it is important to monitor the voltage at the rig. If there is an unexpected low voltage at the K2, the cause needs to be determined. Rick Dettinger K7MW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Melted J3 Connector on K2/100 - Reprise - Part II
Ron and Tom are totally correct. On inspection of the connectors they were not seated forward enough because I tried to do something fancy...like putting two wires coming out of the 20 amp APP to run the KAT100. I did not get the spade pushed far enough into the plastic shell. I will be changing that tomorrow and running one wire into the APP and make sure they are soldered (with they were) but pushed in till they click. I see now they were not clicked into a locking position. I got the black on to click in, but the red one is toast. I will replace both ... and ... run seperate power from the PS to the KAT100. I had this very same thing happen on a 240 Volt AC dryer plug onceand the Fire Department was calledit was smokin'! Poor connection between the plug or the socket and the wire running to the breaker box. Nasty! Lee - K0WA Lee Buller [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2006 19:57:38 -0700 (PDT) From: Lee Buller [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Melted J3 Connector on K2/100 Well, I was giving the K2/100 heck (100 watts) on 40 meters tonight into a nice load (1.2) and things start stinking a little when I turn it back over to the other station. I had been sending code at around 18 wpm for about 10 minutes. I am running a Astron switching power supply. Then the rig shut off and did not come on again. The heat sink was not all that hot, but I noticed the large gauge wire and the fuse holder was warmer than what I would expect. The 20 amp fuse was not blown. I pulled the Anderson Power pole plugsand the RED side of the plug is melted while the black plug is not. The RED Anderson Power Pole connector on the K2 is also slighly deformed from melting. I took the K2 over to another supply on the bench and the K2 came up. Looking at the schmaticI must have drawn to much current for the connectors. Hardly seems to be plausible. What do you experts think here? Lee - K0WA In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply. If you don't have any Common Sense - get some and use it. If you can't find any common sense, ask for help from somebody who has some common sense. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply. If you don't have any Common Sense - get some and use it. If you can't find any common sense, ask for help from somebody who has some common sense. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: What's wrong with Serial
Bill, AA4LR, wrote: The basic issue is that the DB-9 connector on the K2 does double-duty. True enough. Then Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: RS232 is a signaling protocol, not a cable pinout scheme. Correct. Then the principle designer, N6KR, wrote: We didn't have room for two connectors. The K2 is a very compact radio, leading to some packaging compromises. As it evolves, we improve things; e.g., the series resistor we added a couple of years ago to the control board to mitigate the most common serial I/O signal conflict. We appreciate everyone's input and patience on this and other topics. 73, Wayne N6KR --- http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 in K2/100
I know this message is a bit old, but I've been too tied up with other projects to read the reflector mail for the last two months (fyi - the reflector generated over 2000 emails in the last 2 months). The increased gain mod I did for the KSB2 was originally designed to increase the transmit gain in SSB for a barefoot K2. The original K2 had difficulty reaching 10 watts of power output in SSB on 10 meters. When you drove the audio input harder to get to full power, the K2 would start to clip on the audio peaks. This does not create a wider bandwidth signal because the SSB modulator is followed by the SSB filter, but it does increase the audio distortion. I added the extra emitter follower stage to increase the overall IF gain in the SSB transmit signal path. This mod should not be necessary with the KPA100, since it can reach full power with only a few watts of drive. Some folks have reported that the emitter follower stage can cause power output instability when the KPA100 is installed. There is at least one fix around that reduces the gain of the emitter follower stage by increasing the emitter resistor value and apparently eliminates this instability. I would recommend that the emitter follower gain stage not be used in a K2/100 since it does appear to cause a stability problem, and there is no need for the extra gain on 10 meters. -John KI6WX - Original Message - From: Roy Morris [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2006 9:41 AM I would like to hear from anyone who has K2/100s with both the unmodified KSB2 and the modified KSB2 with the KI6WX 2N amp mod (and 1.08 firmware). How does this mod affect mic gain and VOX operation? How does the absence of this mod affect mic gain and VOX operation? Does the mod help SSB modulation on 10 meters with the power level set at 5 watts? Do you find this mod helpful at 100 watts? Thanks for your input. Roy Morris W4WFB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 in K2/100
John - KI6WX said: (fyi - the reflector generated over 2000 emails in the last 2 months). == No wonder I havn't got the house painted! Rick Dettinger K7MW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] yet another KX1 antenna
My search goes on for a simple field antenna system for which the KX1 can get a match on 40, 30 and 20 meters *and* with a good long feedline so that the antenna can be placed in an exposed location while the op takes shelter from the sun and wind some distance away. I'm planning for the ARS Flight of the Bumblebees contest this July - I want to be able to switch between 20 and 40 over the course of the event while using a single antenna - with as little feedline loss as possible. So here's one I've been playing with lately - it's based on the coupled resonator dipole and was made from pieces of windowed twinlead I had hanging around in the garage. I used a 64 foot piece of 16 ga. 450 ohm windowed twinlead (approx. 1 inch spacing between conductors) for the radiating part. One conductor was opened at the center of the piece and a 40 foot piece of 16 ga. 300 ohm windowed twinlead attached as a feedline. The other conductor was cut at two points 17 feet each way from the center to create a 34 foot resonator for 20 meters. I just removed a 1/4'' section of wire to interrupt the conductor (at a point where the webbing was present). From what I read in the ARRL Antenna Book topic on this type of antenna the 1 inch spacing between driven element and resonator isn't too far off the mark for 16 ga. wire. Modeling with NEC-Win+ (carefully, the 1'' spacing is getting close) indicated that the SWR on the feedline would be less than 10:1 on all 3 bands. Although not resonant on 30 meters, with a 300 ohm feedline the mismatch was on the same order as that for 20 and 40. According to ZIZL line losses would be well below 1 dB for all 3 bands. This in an inverted vee configuration with the feedpoint at 35 feet over average ground. Indeed, once built, and supported by a 32 foot telescoping fiberglas mast, the KX1 ATU gets a good match on all bands and operating performance seems much better than the speaker wire doublets I've used with their lossy feedlines. But what I really like about the antenna is that since it is all windowed twinlead with copper plated stranded steel wire it's strong, tough as nails and easy to handle. It is a bit on the heavy side, but maybe worth the extra effort to hike it up the mountain for the contest. Any other Bumblebees on the list using a KX1 this year? If so, what antennas do you plan to use? Bob NW8L ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
