[Elecraft] RE:OT-NASA soldering
I was not NASA certified but worked with techs that were. They explained that minimum solder, ie concave verses convex solder blob, was due to not inspection of solder pad. If the solder was piled on the inspectors would reject it because they had a harder time determining cold solder pads, minimal solder allowed proper inspection of the pad. Tim W4YN Judging from a direct response, it seems that my statement about using minimum solder to save lift-off weight during the lunar lander program generated skepticism...At that time NASA estimated that they saved 450 pounds on the entire Saturn 5 launch vehicle by limiting the amount of solder used for a one-shot launch...NASA did not use Mil-Spec, they had their own spec... Jerry, wa2dkg Anything that is built for NASA and will fly will most likely have to be conformal coated...Leaving excess lead length might cause the ends to protrude out of the conformal coating, defeating the purpose of the coating...I was not aware of any min-max lead length protrusion in my dealings with NASAWe used minimum solder to save lift-off weight and we always trimmed flush... Tim O'Rourke [EMAIL PROTECTED] Low Power Amateur Radio Rocks Member of Flying Pigs,ARCI,GQRP,RSGB,ARRL Life Member NHRA Life Member ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Signal generator question... second try...
OK, it seems that this model will not be suitable.. I will go now at a more «basic» alternative. as long as I learn something, this is the most important part... :-) I will build the «signal generator» in the K2 building manual. But I would like to know something there is output level to adjust, I guess that will depend on voltage using to run the device. At wich level should it be set ??? I don't want to blow of damage something while learning !!! :-)) Jean-François Ménard a écrit : Hi, I would like to learn and explore more «signal tracing» procedure and technique. I actually have a Fluke 196C. But I don't have a signal generator. A friend of mine have his signal generator for sale. The model is an Instek GFG-8216A. I would like to know if the device will be good for signal tracing or the specification of this device is not enough for this purpose??? I know that I could build the one in the K2 building manual or at least use the technique «Cheap'n Dirty» from N0SS... but that's not my point ;-) The specification can be viewed at http://www.instek.com/pdf/Generator/GFG-8216A8215A.pdf Thanks for all your advice. Best 73 J-F VA2VYZ __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] CW keying circuit
I use a simple single transistor keyer in conjunction with the Auto-Detect feature as described in the K2 manual to use both the computer and keyer paddle with N1MM. It runs directly off a native serial port on an old IBM laptop as well as off a USB to Serial Converter Cable used on a new laptop. It works fine on either. The simple single transistor keyer is described in the Help section of the N1MM program as well as other places. To see a photo of how all this is cabled together you might want to look at my Elecraft photo album at: http://photos.yahoo.com/n4hh Play the Slideshow for larger photos. 73 -- Don N4HH SNIP - Original Message - From: Carter W. Craigie [EMAIL PROTECTED] I want to be able to do computer-generated CW on my K2, using software such as Can someone send me, or point me to, a CW keying circuit for a COMM port that will work with the K2? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] N1MM Contest Logger VFO B issue
Mark, I'm new with N1MM, but a quick check just now with my K2 (#337 with most applicable updates) shows that the N1MM Logger correctly tracks which VFO is active and with the correct frequencies. By that I mean that the VFO A display is active when VFO A is selected on the K2, and the VFO B display is active (has the focus) when VFO B is selected on the K2, and both show the correct frequency for the respective VFO. However, making a couple of dummy entries in the log, starting with VFO A then going to VFO B, the VFO A frequency was incorrectly entered for both. Looks like a problem to me too! 73, Randy, KS4L ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 and Icom SM-20 Microphone
Anyone wired the K2 mike jumper block for an Icom SM-20 preamplified Microphone? If so , email me with you pin outs. Thanks Jim K4JAF ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Attic Antenna
Hi - I notice Diamond Antennas - now offers a BB7V and BB6W VERTICAL NO-COUNTERPOISE HF ANTENNA - for the ham bands. They look to be built very well. The BB6W version, offers a HORIZONTAL top section, up above the antenna's loading coil. Whole thing mounts on a single vertical pole, etc. The BB7V is sold by Universal Radio Inc. in Ohio. I think the BB6W is not yet available at any U.S. ham stores. But may be wrong on that. I saw an article where the Australian hams were using the BB7V with success. I'm sure a tuner is required. Fred N3CSY .stealth, association restricted too __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Signal generator question
Hello J-F I would not recommend this generator, as it really isn't intended for your expected use. It is a function generator, meaning it produces sine waves, square waves, triangular waves, and so on, but it only goes up to 3 MHz. You want a regular rf signal generator, which will usually produce a signal from below the AM broadcast band to over 30 MHz. Some will even go up into VHF frequencies. Good luck in your search for a generator. 73, Bob N6WG -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Jean-François Ménard Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2006 6:32 PM To: Elecraft Mailing List Subject: [Elecraft] Signal generator question Hi, I would like to learn and explore more «signal tracing» procedure and technique. I actually have a Fluke 196C. But I don't have a signal generator. A friend of mine have his signal generator for sale. The model is an Instek GFG-8216A. I would like to know if the device will be good for signal tracing or the specification of this device is not enough for this purpose??? I know that I could build the one in the K2 building manual or at least use the technique «Cheap'n Dirty» from N0SS... but that's not my point ;-) The specification can be viewed at http://www.instek.com/pdf/Generator/GFG-8216A8215A.pdf Thanks for all your advice. Best 73 J-F VA2VYZ __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Attic Antenna
-Original Message- Diamond Antennas - now offers a BB7V and BB6W VERTICAL NO-COUNTERPOISE HF ANTENNA - for the ham bands. They look to be built very well. --- I would want a lot more info before spending any money. The BB7V is priced at US$400. It's a 22 foot vertical aluminum radiator with a nice mast clamp (mast not included) and a cylindrical feedpoint device. The big question is: What's in the feedpoint device? None of the literature gives any detail on how the feedpoint device converts the complex impedance at the bottom of the 22 foot vertical radiator into 50 ohms. SWR of 2 or less from 2 to 30 MHz is claimed. The feedpoint device does not have any external controls or indications. The radiator and mast clamp assembly can't be worth more than $100 retail. So what is in the feedpoint device that is worth $300? The name Maxx-Comm comes to mind. 73 de Jim, N2EY Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Attic Antenna
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I would want a lot more info before spending any money. The BB7V is priced at US$400. It's a 22 foot vertical aluminum radiator with a nice mast clamp (mast not included) and a cylindrical feedpoint device. The big question is: What's in the feedpoint device? Here's some more information (but no mention of what's in the magic cylinder): http://www.hamradio.co.uk/pdf/Diamond/BB7V.pdf However, it is possible to see that the radiator is a continuous conductor. Therefore, the counterpoise function must be provided by the mast, coax shield, or lossy ground (depending on mounting). This means the antenna's performance would be highly dependent on mounting, and it would be prone to RFI and RF-in-the-shack issues. The antenna supposedly works from 3-30 MHz with SWR less than 2:1. The SWR curve shown is suspiciously similar to that of a resistively loaded antenna. Such antennas can be useful in certain circumstances (BW makes several versions), but the efficiency can be quite low on frequencies where the impedance of the radiating part is high or reactive. The BW antennas are well designed and relatively large; even so, the efficiency is significantly below that of a dipole. A 22-foot vertical without top loading will be inefficient on 7 MHz (it will be a dummy load on 3.5), especially without a decent counterpoise. Even if one only has room for a 22-foot vertical there are lots of better choices. I agree with Jim. Put up a dipole and spend the leftover $395 on beer. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT: Looking for some foam.
I have dealt with FoamByMail.com, and I recommend them. Their customer service is quite good. Here are the largely-irrelevant background details: At the time I needed a shipping case for a 20 cm Schmidt-Cassegrain telescope. There are companies out there that make custom cases, but they are horrendously expensive. I searched the web and found an article describing exactly what I needed; the article also recommended FoamByMail.com. The original article is offline, but I found the version preserved by archive.org's Wayback Machine, which unfortunately doesn't have the pictures: http://tinyurl.com/yhl3mw Following the article's recommendations, I took a plastic container the size of a steamer trunk and carefully cut and hot-glued several thick closed-cell foam slices to hold the telescope. To return to the current discussion -- an alternative to the prescored foam could be to use a technique similar to the one I used. To be more specific, some wide closed-cell foam could be cut into slices, carved as necessary, and then glued or hot-glued together to form the shape required. By the way, my homemade telescope case works very well. However the hot glue over two years has ceased to hold in several places. I will probably reglue with some other glue, perhaps epoxy or Gorilla Glue. The hot glue was useful however, because it worked well enough for a few months, and allowed me to prove the concept without being too permanent. 73, - Rob W7GH K2 #5004 On Wed, 25 Oct 2006 12:35:41 -0700, Larry [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: A quick google search got http://www.foambymail.com. Click on Packaging Foam on the left and I think you will find exactly what you are looking for. Larry, KB5DXY K1 #2269 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Attic Antenna
It reminds me of the verticals Gotham made in the 1950s. Bob, N7XY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Plexiglas case for K2
On Thursday 26 October 2006 20:45, Doug Shields wrote: http://www.heathkit.info/K2_5000-1.jpg http://www.heathkit.info/K2_5000-2.jpg http://www.heathkit.info/K2_5000-3.jpg Doug, They belong at the top of Elecraft's gallery. I thought only of using glue to make a plexiglass enclosure for my chess set (so that the cats don't spoil it). I have the pieces cut - now I'll try to use screws as you seem to have. Thanks. Ian, G4ICV, AB2GR, K2 #4962 -- ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Serial Comm pulsing noise issue on 40m
On Friday 27 Oct 2006 Mark (NK8Q) wrote ... I've noticed a fairly weak noise on 40m when using N1MM Contest Logging program. -- Hi Mark, It appears from your previous posts that your K2 is barefoot, so these related posts in the Reflector archives might not apply to your situation: http://www.ac6rm.net/mailarchive/html/elecraft-list/2005-02/msg00535.html http://www.ac6rm.net/mailarchive/html/elecraft-list/2005-02/msg00538.html http://www.ac6rm.net/mailarchive/html/elecraft-list/2005-02/msg00514.html http://www.ac6rm.net/mailarchive/html/elecraft-list/2005-02/msg00523.html http://www.ac6rm.net/mailarchive/html/elecraft-list/2005-02/msg00512.html 73, Gary, KI4GGX K2 #4067 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Attic Antenna
-Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] It reminds me of the verticals Gotham made in the 1950s. But it's very different. The Gotham verticals were just 22 feet of tubing, some mounting straps, and a big custom-made coil of B W miniductor. The only difference between the various models was how big a coil they sent. You supplied the feedline, mounting, some hardware, a ground or counterpoise, and a weatherproof cover for the coil. The way the Gotham verticals worked was that you connected the coil between the bottom of the 22 foot radiator and ground/counterpoise. Then you connected the coax braid to ground. You also needed to tap the coax center conductor onto the coil, and to short out turns at the top of the coil. The trick was that with the right number of turns shorted out at the top of the coil, and the center conductor tapped on at the right spot, you'd get a low SWR on the frequency of your choice. Of course if you QSYd, you had to go change the taps and shorting jumper. Since the coil was at the base of the antenna, that could be convenient - maybe. Depending on how good the ground connection was, and what band you were using, performance could range from great to awful. 22 feet is about 5/8 wave on 10 meters, too. The BB7W doesn't work like that. There's some sort of magic, nonadjustable network inside the feedpoint device. I suspect it has a near-unity power factor. 73 de Jim, N2EY Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Attic Antenna
The Diamond bottom tube may, (and likely) contains a broad band ferrite cable choke. Or there may be a combination trap/ loading coil such as used on some tri band beams for multibands. Stuart K5KVH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Attic Antenna
Stuart Rohre wrote: The Diamond bottom tube may, (and likely) contains a broad band ferrite cable choke. Or there may be a combination trap/ loading coil such as used on some tri band beams for multibands. No way that a choke would produce the SWR curve shown in their spec sheet. Whatever else is in there, there's also a resistor. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] EZ PSK interface USB
Can the EZ PSK interface USB be used with the K2/100? I know the control cable cannot be a normal one. Is this a good approach to enter the world of digital ham radio? (My Mac has only USB input.) John AB8O ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Plexiglas case for K2
I'd like to pass along an off-reflector comment Wayne made to me after I wrote that there probably wouldn't be any RFI issues: He wrote: Uh don't I wish :) Without the case, you'll see significantly more leakage radiation both out of and into the box. It varies a lot, but the box really helps, for everything below Microwave frequencies. Those can sneak in sideways. But at QRP levels and in isolated situations, he'd be perfectly OK. So there you have the word from the man himself about operating with the plastic covers. Of course, the standards (and needs) of RF shielding have grown considerably since I ran half a kilowatt on 20 meters using a rig built on a sheet of masonite G. So has the sensitivity to RF energy of the stuff we have in our homes and shacks. Back then I'd never dreamed that a CW QSO might be interrupted briefly by the krick, krick, krick, br... of the data from my cell phone updating the local cell tower sneaking into the K2 audio channel. Personally, I wouldn't hesitate to fire it up QRP when it's being displayed for people although I'd keep the metal covers on it for normal operation in the shack. It IS a beautiful display job, worth of recognition! And, from what I can see of the boards, a build worthy of being displayed! Ron AC7AC -Original Message- On Thursday 26 October 2006 20:45, Doug Shields wrote: http://www.heathkit.info/K2_5000-1.jpg http://www.heathkit.info/K2_5000-2.jpg http://www.heathkit.info/K2_5000-3.jpg Doug, They belong at the top of Elecraft's gallery. I thought only of using glue to make a plexiglass enclosure for my chess set (so that the cats don't spoil it). I have the pieces cut - now I'll try to use screws as you seem to have. Thanks. Ian, G4ICV, AB2GR, K2 #4962 -- ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KAT2 question
Hi! Plaese help me with the KAF2-module in my K2. How I can adjusting null in CALn for best result? Can I use analog multimeter for best result? How? Thanks! 73! Alex de UR5LAM We have the perfect Group for you. Check out the handy changes to Yahoo! Groups (http://groups.yahoo.com) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Attic Antenna
WARNING! This same scheme (scam?) happened quite a few years ago. Don't remember the name of the device, but is was a black box type proprietary antenna coupler. The price was rather high ($300-400) and it was guaranteed flat SWR between 3-30 Mhz. SO-239 input and two standoff insulators with wing nuts (output). Was said to match a random wire or a balanced line dipole! Someone finally x-rayed one and it turned out to be a dummy load actually. It was enclosed in a cast aluminum Bud box and potted with some sort of opaque epoxy if you took the lid off! They didn't last too long, but long enough for the manufacturer to make a bundle! It was not guaranteed to radiate with high efficiency but was guaranteed to have an input VSWR no greater than 2:1! BEWARE of ANY MAGIC DEVICE that makes these claims. More than likely it is a large pile of bovine fecal matter that they are feeding you! No, I didn't buy one, but in some unusual installations it was tried on some commercial marine limited coast station installations. The results were very mediocre no matter what 'antenna' was tried. Low SWRBUT! Not much radiation! 73, Sandy W5TVW - Original Message - From: Vic K2VCO [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Friday, October 27, 2006 12:01 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Attic Antenna | [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: | | I would want a lot more info before spending any money. | | The BB7V is priced at US$400. It's a 22 foot vertical aluminum radiator | with a nice mast clamp (mast not included) and a cylindrical feedpoint | device. | | The big question is: What's in the feedpoint device? | | Here's some more information (but no mention of what's in the magic | cylinder): http://www.hamradio.co.uk/pdf/Diamond/BB7V.pdf | | However, it is possible to see that the radiator is a continuous | conductor. Therefore, the counterpoise function must be provided by the | mast, coax shield, or lossy ground (depending on mounting). This means | the antenna's performance would be highly dependent on mounting, and it | would be prone to RFI and RF-in-the-shack issues. | | The antenna supposedly works from 3-30 MHz with SWR less than 2:1. The | SWR curve shown is suspiciously similar to that of a resistively loaded | antenna. Such antennas can be useful in certain circumstances (BW | makes several versions), but the efficiency can be quite low on | frequencies where the impedance of the radiating part is high or | reactive. The BW antennas are well designed and relatively large; even | so, the efficiency is significantly below that of a dipole. | | A 22-foot vertical without top loading will be inefficient on 7 MHz (it | will be a dummy load on 3.5), especially without a decent counterpoise. | | Even if one only has room for a 22-foot vertical there are lots of | better choices. | | I agree with Jim. Put up a dipole and spend the leftover $395 on beer. | -- | 73, | Vic, K2VCO | Fresno CA | http://www.qsl.net/k2vco | ___ | Elecraft mailing list | Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net | You must be a subscriber to post to the list. | Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): | http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft | | Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm | Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com | | | | -- | No virus found in this incoming message. | Checked by AVG Free Edition. | Version: 7.1.408 / Virus Database: 268.13.17/505 - Release Date: 10/27/2006 | | ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: KAT2 question
Hello Alex, Plaese help me with the KAF2-module in my K2. How I can adjusting null in CALn for best result? With your ears like the manual suggested. ;o) Can I use analog multimeter for best result? How? Yes, you can. Connect an analog multimeter on the AF output and adjust R1 respectively R2 on the KAF2 module. A maximal signal must be your goal. An alternative choice is to use the (freeware) software named Spectrogram. You will find the software via the Elecraft Homepage on Tom Hammond's (N0SS) or also on my website. Connect a computer with a sound card inside on the AF output. Now you can adjust R1 respectively R2 on the KAF2 module exactly. I use the software also to match the in the manual suggested birdie at 7000 kHz with my CW sidetone. -- 72/73 de Ingo, DK3RED - Don't forget: the fun is the power! [EMAIL PROTECTED] - www.dk3red.homepage.t-online.de DL-QRP-AG #824 - www.dl-qrp-ag.de QRP ARCI #11295 - www.qrparci.org DARC #2360404 - www.darc.de ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Problem for K2 # 4498
Bob, I was on vacation, but I did not see any answer on the reflector. Several questions: Is this a K2/100 or a QRP K2? Does the problem appear on all bands? Which filter are you referring to - the bandpass filter or the Low Pass filter? Does the 450 kHz 'modulation' appear at the Transmit mixer inputs? Which one (BFO or VCO)? Do you have adequate oscillator injection levels (RF voltages) at the transmit mixer? See the manual Appendix E, page 10 and following for proper levels as measured with the RF Probe. What is the RF Voltage at the Transmit Mixer output when the power control is set to 5 watts? What is the RF Voltage at the Buffer output when set to 5 watts? Compare the latter 2 RF voltages with the expected values shown in the manual Appendox E page 14. Have you done the DC voltage checks? Do they compare within 10% of the DC Voltage chart? 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Hello the list ! I'm calling Au Secour after a problem that I tried to solve without results. With power down to zero, on all bands, there is no output BUT I get a very healthy signal at about 450 khz up to the firlter input. When I start to increase power, up to about 7 to 8 watts, the output signal is shopped by this 450 khz carrier, and when the power can be pushed over 10 w the 450 khz disapear completly. (On 1.8 output max is 0.2 w, 3.5 5 w, 7 12 w 10.1 8 w, 14 10w, 21 7 w, 24 6 w, 28 5.5 w. All transistors where changed ( 2N5109, 2SC2166, 2x2sc1969)without results so... Does anybody had this situation ? Thank you in advabce F5UL/Bob ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KIO2 sends out to pc but doesn't take commands from pc
James, Have you checked the resistance across the tiny inductors on the KIO2 board? Those inductors are easily damaged when installing, and an open inductor would cause exactly the symptoms you report. RXD and TXD are separate signals, so it is quite possible that TXD is working, but RXD is not - resulting on 'one-way' communications. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I have been working with the KIO2 for a while to try to get it to work. It's never really worked since I put it in. Today I verified with another PC that the K2 does indeed send data through the KIO2 but it does not receive. I ran the test as described on page 14 of the KIO2 manual. Steps 1,2,3,4 works fine I get the FA0; to come up in hyperterminal when I hit the DISPLAY button as instructed. When I try step 5, which is to type SW01; then nothing happens. The software I tried cannot connect to the K2 either. The settings on my serial port (COM1) in Device manager (windows 2003 production) are as follows: Bits Per Second: 4800 Data Bits: 8 Parity: None Stop Bits: 2 Flow Control: None I am still baffled by what would cause one way communication, but not two way communication between the K2 and the PC. 73, James KB2FCV ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Attic Antenna
I would want a lot more info before spending any money. The BB7V is priced at US$400. It's a 22 foot vertical aluminum radiator with a nice mast clamp (mast not included) and a cylindrical feedpoint device. The big question is: What's in the feedpoint device? Sandy wrote of an earlier example: ... the device ... was a black box type proprietary antenna coupler. The price was rather high ($300-400) and it was guaranteed flat SWR between 3-30 Mhz BEWARE of ANY MAGIC DEVICE that makes these claims. More than likely it is a large pile of bovine fecal matter that they are feeding you! That was about 25 years ago, and it was a QST review that exposed this scam. The x-ray showed some junk PCB board that had been potted with the 50 ohm resistor, so that it would appear to have circuitry, should someone actually x-ray the unit. Vic wrote: I agree with Jim. Put up a dipole and spend the leftover $395 on beer. No truer words have ever been written! Even honestly described and advertised HF verticals without a very very very good radial system are terrible performers compared to a simple dipole. Commercial *portable* verticals are especially so, and are also usually absurdly expensive. An example of a money and power waster is the Outbacker-series with their ground coupling base for portable use. It is one of those $400 systems that performs very poorly, compared to a $5 dipole. I've done side-by-side testing of both on several occasions. I was tempted to repeat the old saw about there being no such thing as a free lunch, but that would be wrong. The simple dipole is very close to being free, and it will normally way outperform any HF vertical no matter how much money is dumped into some expensive exotic or bogus design. Reports of success using HF verticals with poor radial systems only show that sometimes contacts can be made with the poorest of radiators. Friends don't let friends use portable HF verticals! 73, Mike / KK5F ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KAT100 problem, the sequel
John, A Master Reset wipes out any menu setting that you had established before the reset, and the most crutial to operation is the CAL PLL and CAL FIL values. The Filter settings in the manual are OK as a starting point, but I recommed using Spectrogram to refine the settings. If you need information on how to use Spectrogram to do the K2 dial calibration and filter setting, I can refer you to my website (http://w3fpr.qrpradio.com) article on K2 Dial Calibration. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of John Wiener Sent: Wednesday, October 25, 2006 12:03 AM To: Elecraft email Subject: [Elecraft] KAT100 problem, the sequel I hard reset my K2 while trying to figure out why the KAT wasn't working properly. I now know (thanks to Dave) that somehow the ATU switched from auto setting. Now, I have to reset / recalibrate. I re checked the 4MHz Osc calibration, the PLL Reference Oscillator Range, the VCO test, Redid the BFO test and range. All of these procedures were successful. Redid CAL FIL and set all values to those in Table 8.2 on p 89 of the manual. ***I heard a carrier on LSB and some USB (?)*** I did not re-align the cans. Did not re-do VFO Linearization Now, my XFIL settings are off...audio freq changes substantially between X filters (but not between C filters) My apologies for going over old ground, but what precisely did I mess up? :) John AB8O ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.408 / Virus Database: 268.13.17/505 - Release Date: 10/27/2006 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Signal generator question
Jean-Francois, Signal tracing can be quite effective - I applaud your goals. Signal tracing of a transmitter path can usually be done with only an RF probe since the signal levels are usually large enough to measure easily, although a 'scope is more informative because you can see the relative frequencies involved. For the K2, just follow the steps detailed in the Transmit Signal Tracing section of Appendix E in the manual. Receive Signal Tracing is a bit more 'iffy' - although the method in Appendix E of the K2 manual works well, one must use a relatively strong signal source (such as the oscillator shown in the manual) to have a large enough signal in the receiver to measure (very small readings are likely just noise picked up by the probe). One must remember that in the RF and IF stages, a signal that can be observed on a 'scope or RF probe is much greater than the normal signal levels handled by the receiver - none-the-less, the procedure can be informative in identifying a failing stage, but it cannot be used to evaluate distortion levels since the stages are being overdriven by the generator with this elementary test. If one uses a normal receiver input level signal, there are devices to effectively measure those small signal levels (Spectrum Analyzer for instance), but the signal path must usually be broken and the signal level transformed to 50 ohms to do proper measurements. A more effective method of troubleshooting a receiver is to use a signal generator to do 'signal injection' at each stage of the receiver - for the sudio stages, that requires a generator that will produce audio frequencies, and for the IF stages it requires a signal generator that can produce a frequency equal to the IF frequency. The RF stages require a signal generator at the receiver tuning frequency. This generator should have a controllable output level so the levels can also be evaluated. Normally one would start at the audio stages and move toward the antenna one stage at a time, injecting the level and frequency that each stage should respond to. Using that procedure, it is sufficient to measure the ouput of the receiver either with an AC Voltmeter or just the ears listening to the speaker. There ued to be 'signal injectors' available that produced an audio square waveform that was very rich in harmonics that could be used as a relative indicator of functioning receiver stages - if you can hear a good response when moving from the audio stages toward the antenna, it can quickly identify a failing stage. Bottom line - receiver signal tracing begins at the antenna and works toward the receiver audio stages, signal injection works the other way around. Both methods verify the operation of each stage in turn until the failure point is found. The generator that you referred to is a Function Generator which is great for evaluating audio and low frequency IF stages, but if you are using a K2 for this 'education', the IF is at 4915 KHz and that generator will not go above 3000 kHz. As I indicated, if you are just trying to isolate a failing stage, the large signal injected at the antenna (tune the receiver to the signal generator frequency) will usually suffice, but if the problem is more subtle than just a failing stage (distortion for example), the controlled level signal injection at each stage is required - along with a good knowledge of 'what is normal'. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I would like to learn and explore more «signal tracing» procedure and technique. I actually have a Fluke 196C. But I don't have a signal generator. A friend of mine have his signal generator for sale. The model is an Instek GFG-8216A. I would like to know if the device will be good for signal tracing or the specification of this device is not enough for this purpose??? I know that I could build the one in the K2 building manual or at least use the technique «Cheap'n Dirty» from N0SS... but that's not my point ;-) The specification can be viewed at http://www.instek.com/pdf/Generator/GFG-8216A8215A.pdf Thanks for all your advice. Best 73 J-F VA2VYZ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KAT2 question
Alex, Use your DVM to measure the voltage at the wiper of the reflected potentiometer - adjust for a minimum. If the minimum is high, then check your work - the diode orientation, the winding of the bifilar transformer, and other components in the circuit (look at the schematic to identify the related components). 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Hi! Plaese help me with the KAF2-module in my K2. How I can adjusting null in CALn for best result? Can I use analog multimeter for best result? How? Thanks! 73! Alex de UR5LAM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Signal generator question]
Thanks Don. Again, I will keep and print this email has a reference in my shack. Clear explanation... very instructive. I am actually building the signal generator found in the K2 manual. Now it works ! I I will now experiment using this device. I also found a good explanation the ARRL handbook, in the section «troubleshooting», chapter 27. I really want to use more my scope and learn on how to use it... and how to read it. A good practice. Best 73 and thanks again for your time J-F VA2VYZ Don Wilhelm a écrit : Jean-Francois, Signal tracing can be quite effective - I applaud your goals. Signal tracing of a transmitter path can usually be done with only an RF probe since the signal levels are usually large enough to measure easily, although a 'scope is more informative because you can see the relative frequencies involved. For the K2, just follow the steps detailed in the Transmit Signal Tracing section of Appendix E in the manual. Receive Signal Tracing is a bit more 'iffy' - although the method in Appendix E of the K2 manual works well, one must use a relatively strong signal source (such as the oscillator shown in the manual) to have a large enough signal in the receiver to measure (very small readings are likely just noise picked up by the probe). One must remember that in the RF and IF stages, a signal that can be observed on a 'scope or RF probe is much greater than the normal signal levels handled by the receiver - none-the-less, the procedure can be informative in identifying a failing stage, but it cannot be used to evaluate distortion levels since the stages are being overdriven by the generator with this elementary test. If one uses a normal receiver input level signal, there are devices to effectively measure those small signal levels (Spectrum Analyzer for instance), but the signal path must usually be broken and the signal level transformed to 50 ohms to do proper measurements. A more effective method of troubleshooting a receiver is to use a signal generator to do 'signal injection' at each stage of the receiver - for the sudio stages, that requires a generator that will produce audio frequencies, and for the IF stages it requires a signal generator that can produce a frequency equal to the IF frequency. The RF stages require a signal generator at the receiver tuning frequency. This generator should have a controllable output level so the levels can also be evaluated. Normally one would start at the audio stages and move toward the antenna one stage at a time, injecting the level and frequency that each stage should respond to. Using that procedure, it is sufficient to measure the ouput of the receiver either with an AC Voltmeter or just the ears listening to the speaker. There ued to be 'signal injectors' available that produced an audio square waveform that was very rich in harmonics that could be used as a relative indicator of functioning receiver stages - if you can hear a good response when moving from the audio stages toward the antenna, it can quickly identify a failing stage. Bottom line - receiver signal tracing begins at the antenna and works toward the receiver audio stages, signal injection works the other way around. Both methods verify the operation of each stage in turn until the failure point is found. The generator that you referred to is a Function Generator which is great for evaluating audio and low frequency IF stages, but if you are using a K2 for this 'education', the IF is at 4915 KHz and that generator will not go above 3000 kHz. As I indicated, if you are just trying to isolate a failing stage, the large signal injected at the antenna (tune the receiver to the signal generator frequency) will usually suffice, but if the problem is more subtle than just a failing stage (distortion for example), the controlled level signal injection at each stage is required - along with a good knowledge of 'what is normal'. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I would like to learn and explore more «signal tracing» procedure and technique. I actually have a Fluke 196C. But I don't have a signal generator. A friend of mine have his signal generator for sale. The model is an Instek GFG-8216A. I would like to know if the device will be good for signal tracing or the specification of this device is not enough for this purpose??? I know that I could build the one in the K2 building manual or at least use the technique «Cheap'n Dirty» from N0SS... but that's not my point ;-) The specification can be viewed at http://www.instek.com/pdf/Generator/GFG-8216A8215A.pdf Thanks for all your advice. Best 73 J-F VA2VYZ __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber
Re: [Elecraft] Attic Antenna
In a message dated 10/27/06 6:38:11 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: WARNING! This same scheme (scam?) happened quite a few years ago. Don't remember the name of the device, but is was a black box type proprietary antenna coupler. You may be thinking of the Maxx-Com Matcher. The price was rather high ($300-400) and it was guaranteed flat SWR between 3-30 Mhz. Less than 2:1 over the range. And it did! SO-239 input and two standoff insulators with wing nuts (output). Was said to match a random wire or a balanced line dipole! Someone finally x-rayed one and it turned out to be a dummy load actually. It was enclosed in a cast aluminum Bud box and potted with some sort of opaque epoxy if you took the lid off! Someone was the ARRL Lab. They X-rayed the thing and then dissolved the epoxy (a long and messy process), and found what was inside. There was a toroidal transformer, some noninductive resistors, and some circuit boards with ICs on them. The circuit boards were obviously scrapped boards from some digital system or other, and performed no electrical function at all. They simply looked good on the X-ray. They didn't last too long, Not true. Maxx-Com is still around: http://www.maxx-com.com/InstallationInfo.html with a bunch of products. They claim 80% or better efficiency, which is absolute bunk on most frequencies. However, if the wire length is right, it may be possible for the system to be almost that efficient. (See below). but long enough for the manufacturer to make a bundle! It was not guaranteed to radiate with high efficiency but was guaranteed to have an input VSWR no greater than 2:1! BEWARE of ANY MAGIC DEVICE that makes these claims. More than likely it is a large pile of bovine fecal matter that they are feeding you! No, I didn't buy one, but in some unusual installations it was tried on some commercial marine limited coast station installations. The results were very mediocre no matter what 'antenna' was tried. Low SWRBUT! Not much radiation! Here's how such a system *could* work on a few frequencies: Suppose the matcher consists of a T or pi attenuator. The SWR of such a system will not be worse than 2:1 if the attenuator is designed right. IIRC, a 3 dB attenuator will do the job. Suppose an antenna with an impedance of 50 ohms is connected to the other end. The attenuator loss will be minimum, and the SWR 1:1. Such a system could be as efficient as 50% (!) Of course if the attenuator is removed, the efficiency is 100%. The big problem is that as you move away from those few perfect frequencies, the losses grow enormously and the system efficiency goes way down. Of course if you feed 100 watts into an antenna system with 5% efficiency, the result is the same as feeding 5 watts to an antenna system with 100% efficiency. 73 de Jim, N2EY 73 de Jim, N2EY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Attic Antenna
Oh yee of little faith, on non-counterpoise HF Verticals! Some of those mentioned are real junkers. Back to subject - what type of ATTIC ANTENNAS are good, for us living in restricted communities (no antennas) - with attics? BW makes a Folded Dipole, 7-30mhz, 45 feet long - with supposed flat swr? Like $245. Our attic antenna needs to be pretty much left by itself - no trips up there to change frequencies. And 40 thru 10 would be nice. I'm suprised no-one mentioned the performance of that octagonal sheet metal HF antenna that is always advertised in QST. I guess I could get my old ARRL Antenna Book out, and build a trap dipole for the attic .. Or stick a Buddipole up there. ... Stealth 100W Fred N3CSY Get your email and see which of your friends are online - Right on the New Yahoo.com (http://www.yahoo.com/preview) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
FW: [Elecraft] Attic Antenna
I had some good laughs reading the review of the tuner. The comparisons are quite favorable. Of course, they were comparing their product to a halfway dipole. I guess that meant a dipole halfway assembled, or maybe halfway burried. They didn't sayg. But anyhow, their pos is 80%-90% as efficient. Also, I've never read a review before with no attribution. 15,000 suckers! P.T. Barnum was right (assuming they are telling the truth!). Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456 snip They didn't last too long, Not true. Maxx-Com is still around: http://www.maxx-com.com/InstallationInfo.html /snip ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Attic Antenna
Fred (FL) wrote: Back to subject - what type of ATTIC ANTENNAS are good, for us living in restricted communities (no antennas) - with attics? BW makes a Folded Dipole, 7-30mhz, 45 feet long - with supposed flat swr? Like $245. Our attic antenna needs to be pretty much left by itself - no trips up there to change frequencies. And 40 thru 10 would be nice. This *is* resistively loaded. It is not a scam like some, but it is less efficient than an ordinary dipole. A dipole as long as possible in the attic, not parallel to wires/pipes if possible, and fed with ladder line and a balanced tuner would be close to optimum. I'm suprised no-one mentioned the performance of that octagonal sheet metal HF antenna that is always advertised in QST. It's poor. Like anything, it works to some extent. Again, a simple dipole would be much better. I guess I could get my old ARRL Antenna Book out, and build a trap dipole for the attic .. Or stick a Buddipole up there. A trap dipole might require a lot of adjustment due to coupling to nearby conductors. It might be a complicated process to get a reasonable SWR on many bands. It would be easier to just make a tuned doublet and let the balanced tuner take care of it. A buddipole would work, of course, but it is too short for good efficiency on the lower bands and would require you to bound up the stairs to adjust it whenever you changed bands. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Attic Antenna
In a message dated 10/27/06 7:33:23 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] ink.net writes: Even honestly described and advertised HF verticals without a very very very good radial system are terrible performers compared to a simple dipole. I disagree! The situation is much more complex than that. Commercial *portable* verticals are especially so, and are also usually absurdly expensive. An example of a money and power waster is the Outbacker-series with their ground coupling base for portable use. It is one of those $400 systems that performs very poorly, compared to a $5 dipole. I've done side-by-side testing of both on several occasions. Of course a lossy antenna system - vertical or not - will be bested by an efficient one. There's also the factor of pattern. Verticals are often sold as great for local or DX. And they are - local (up to a few miles) via ground wave, and DX (beyond 1-2 thousand miles) by low-angle radiation. But for everything in between, a dipole is better. I was tempted to repeat the old saw about there being no such thing as a free lunch, but that would be wrong. The simple dipole is very close to being free, and it will normally way outperform any HF vertical no matter how much money is dumped into some expensive exotic or bogus design. Again, it depends. For example, a quarter wave vertical on 20 meters is only 16 feet high. With its base a few feet off the ground, and a dozen sloping radials, it will do as well or better as a dipole 40-50 feet up - *if* it's in a wide-open location. I built such a vertical for portable use from EMT and PVC, and have had great success with it on Field Day. OTOH, a loaded 80 meter vertical with a few radials isn't going to compete with a decent dipole. 73 de Jim, N2EY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Attic Antenna
My usual antenna on a quick setup afield is a 33' vertical wire hoisted by an MFJ-1910 33' fibreglass telescopic pole. This wih a K1 and KAT1 internal tuner. It will tune with no radials but the performance is lousy. Add one 33' radial and it gets much, much better. Add TWO 33' radials and much better yet. If I add two more (a total of four 33' radials and it improves more yet but not a large change. If I add more, hardly notice any change at all for the most part. All radials out of #24 hookup wire and laid on the ground. This for 40 thru 15 meter operation. For 80 meter use a 66' antenna, 33' vertical and the rest to a nearby tree limb from top of the support mast. Sort of an inverted L. This with 2-4 radials 66' long. It works but isn't the best I could do with a better antenna. My trials of whips and short verticals has been dismal. They will work but somewhat poorly so say the least. The MFJ pole and 33' wires seem to be the best setup especially in places where you have trouble finding supports like the middle of a parking lot or field! It won't work where there is a lot of 'foot traffic' or kids as they will constantly be fouling the radials!! Tried all sorts of loading schemes with whips from 4' to 15' and results fair on higher bands (15/20) but very marginal on 40 or lower. also tried shortened loaded dipoles and again it works but poorly. Sometimes you get lucky. Just my 2 cents worth on portable radiators when you are QRP afield. 73 to all, Sandy W5TVW - Original Message - From: Fred (FL) [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Friday, October 27, 2006 8:27 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Attic Antenna | Oh yee of little faith, on non-counterpoise HF | Verticals! Some of those mentioned are real | junkers. | | Back to subject - what type of ATTIC ANTENNAS are | good, for us living in restricted communities (no | antennas) - with attics? | | BW makes a Folded Dipole, 7-30mhz, 45 feet long - | with supposed flat swr? Like $245. Our attic antenna | needs to be pretty much left by itself - no trips up | there to change frequencies. And 40 thru 10 would | be nice. | | I'm suprised no-one mentioned the performance of | that octagonal sheet metal HF antenna that is | always advertised in QST. | | I guess I could get my old ARRL Antenna Book out, | and build a trap dipole for the attic .. | Or stick a Buddipole up there. | | ... Stealth 100W | Fred | N3CSY | | | | | Get your email and see which of your friends are online - Right on the New Yahoo.com | (http://www.yahoo.com/preview) | | ___ | Elecraft mailing list | Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net | You must be a subscriber to post to the list. | Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): | http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft | | Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm | Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com | | | | -- | No virus found in this incoming message. | Checked by AVG Free Edition. | Version: 7.1.408 / Virus Database: 268.13.17/505 - Release Date: 10/27/2006 | | ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Attic Antenna
Fred, N3CSY, asked: what type of ATTIC ANTENNAS are good, for us living in restricted communities (no antennas) - with attics? -- I have and excellent results with doublets. That's a center fed wire as long as I had room for in the attic. In an apartment that was at least 33 feet, perhaps a little more, by making it slightly Z shaped. It doesn't hurt to bend the ends a bit; just try to keep the angles of the bends as large as you have room for. I strung them inverted V style from the rafters with the center up at the peak as much as possible. No RF ground is needed and the antenna is quite efficient. They were fed with invisible open wire line. I made it out of whatever wire was handy for the part in the attic and the visible part was white wire-wrap wire sold by RS and others. It's quite small, about #30. That's not ideal for a feeder but then again my feed line was rather short, especially the part inside the apartment. I tried to arrange the operating desk next to a wall as nearly as possible under the center of the antenna. Directly above the operating position, I used an ice pick to put two small holes in the ceiling right where it joins the wall. The resulting holes are no larger than those produced by hanging a picture. The holes were about 2 inches apart. I used a miniature homebrew ATU that hung on the wall at a convenient height. I positioned the holes to be directly above it. Most apartment walls are white or nearly so the white wire wrap wire is invisible against the wall. I ran two lengths, one for each side of the feeder, up the wall and through the tiny holes into the attic. One or two staples held the wires tightly against the wall. Thumbtacks that match the wall work FB too. Drywall is a good insulator. Up in the attic I ran the two feed wires to the center of the antenna. Bits of plastic cut from film cans, old plastic coat hangars or whatever is handy made up the spacers. It is NOT necessary to have the wires running exactly parallel. Just make sure they don't touch and are sort of parallel to the center of the antenna. I had visitors come to the shack and look all around for the feeders from two feet away without seeing them until I pointed them out. A better choice for the feeder wire might be white hookup wire (if you have white walls), #20 or #22. If your walls are a different color, consider a little touchup paint matching the walls to dip the wire in to color it before installing the feeder. Touch the heads of a couple of thumbtacks with the same paint to hold the wires securely against the wall. Two at the top and two at the bottom are usually plenty. I never had an apartment higher than two floors, but I worked a LOT of DX running 5 to 15 watts on HF CW, mostly 40, 30, and 20 meters. Made a lot of contacts running 2 watts with an HW-8 as well. At 33 feet long, the antenna was full sized for 40 meters. On 80 it was only slightly less efficient than a full half wave. On the higher bands it was really FB. The biggest problems on 80 for me were, 1) Noise from the electrical systems in the apartments including things like touch-lamps and cheap dimmers. Most apartments have the power lines running around the ceilings (grr) and 2) Since my highest apartment was on the second level, the antenna was no more than 30 feet above the ground. That's very low for an 80 meter antenna. But on the higher bands it worked great. You can build that antenna for perhaps $10 if you buy the wire and regular antenna insulators new. If you get creative about what to use for insulators the only cost is the wire and a little time. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Attic Antenna
Whups... At 33 feet long my antenna was full sized for 20 meters, not 40 meters as I wrote. It was still quite efficient on 40 - only a tiny bit less efficient than a full size antenna - and would work short skip on 80. I could usually get between 40 and 50 feet up by making the bent ends of the Z about 5 feet or so long. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Attic Antenna
Larry originally asked about attic antennas and a concrete tile roof. I have both. I am in Lot 1 next to the gate, and blackmailed my HOA into outdoor HF antennas. I have a Cushcraft R7000 up, which is a half wave trapped antenna, but no radials. Works great. But I also have antennas in my attic. And they get used. A lot. My dipole for 20m has been used a lot and works well. My roof peak is about 22 feet and I have 14 foot ceilings. The main part of the house is about 42x46 feet, so I have a straight shot of about 45 feet in my attic where I can run the wire about 21 feet above the concrete slab. The 20m dipole has been replaced by a dipole with an SGC SG-239 coupler at the feed point. All bands and no SWR on feedline. Works quite well. No problem working Europe on 100 watts. Worked a bit od DX with the K2 barefoot too. The other HF antenna in the attic is a TFD, or terminated folded dipole. This is 45 feet long and homebrewed. I got 2 watt carbon film resistors from eBay, and a 16/1 QRP balun. I used the information from the Cebik site. Basically a squashed terminated loop. Excellent receiving antenna. I do a lot of SW broadcast listening, so this antenna is used for my Palstar R30. My attic antennas work fine. After Hurricane Frances and especially Wilma which passed right over my house, I didn't have any trouble checking into the SATERN net to pass HW. During Wilma I even I even checked in to the Hurricane Watch Net and passed on my reading of 28.00 inches of mercury from my barometer to the NHC. This was while the eye of Wilma was over the house. So attic antennas work. Just (as a lot of the fellows have pointed out) put up a doublet with as much wire as high as you can. And if you can afford to put one of those automatic couplers at the feedpoint(no SWR on the feedline). My 2 cents, but from practical experience and 30 years of ham radio. 73 all de Bob K3YT ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
