[Elecraft] KPA 100 fan problem

2006-11-03 Thread Bob G3PJT

Hi

Yesterday I turned on and the fan came on even though the heatsink was 
cold and when I tried to TX 'PA hot' came on and the PA was inhibited.


1. CAL tpa is 220 which is about right  ~ 22C and Fan menu set  nor.
2. On  TX - Q3 base is 0.6v - which I think is about right (RC4 going 
high of course)
3. On U1 RC7 is 5 and RC6 is low which is the correct output for Fan Hi 
- which is what it is doing.

4. Power control less than 10w and the K2 sends OK
5. Firmware PA 1.06

Any ideas?

73 Bob G3PJT

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[Elecraft] Message to David Runk AA3EJ

2006-11-03 Thread Don Wilhelm
Please excuse the bandwidth.

David, I am getting your emails, but you are apparently not getting my
responses.  I receive no bounce notices, so please check your junk mail
folder or send me an alternate email address.

73,
Don W3FPR

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RE: [Elecraft] KPA 100 fan problem

2006-11-03 Thread Don Wilhelm
Bob,

If CAL TPA is actually 220, that is much too high - The K2 microprocessor
thinks the heat sink is at 220 degrees C!!
Set it back to match the room temperature in degrees C when the heat sink is
at the ambient temperature. (i.e. 22 rather than 220).

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 Yesterday I turned on and the fan came on even though the heatsink was
 cold and when I tried to TX 'PA hot' came on and the PA was inhibited.

 1. CAL tpa is 220 which is about right  ~ 22C and Fan menu set  nor.
 2. On  TX - Q3 base is 0.6v - which I think is about right (RC4 going
 high of course)
 3. On U1 RC7 is 5 and RC6 is low which is the correct output for Fan Hi
 - which is what it is doing.
 4. Power control less than 10w and the K2 sends OK
 5. Firmware PA 1.06

 Any ideas?

 73 Bob G3PJT


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RE: [Elecraft] KBT2 charging question

2006-11-03 Thread Don Wilhelm
Doug,

I finally looked at your reference, and find that your quoted voltage is
only a portion of the charging spec.  While a float voltage at 13.6 to 13.7
volts is OK, it will not fully charge the battery until applied for a very
long time (many tens of hours, maybe even hundreds of hours).

Notice the 'float voltage' you quoted is only the last part of the
recommended charging cycle:
1) charge with a constant current of 580 ma until the terminal voltage
reaches 14.4 to 14.7 volts.
then 2) Hold the terminal voltage at 14.4 to 14.7 volts until the current
drops to 29 ma.
3) After that, stop charging or hold the float voltage at 13.5 to 13.8
volts.

The KBT2 uses a series resistor to limit current, and the series diode
voltage drop must be considered too.  The KBT2 instructions correctly state
that a voltage of 14.0 volts is recommended.

For those who want to fully charge the internal battery and maintain that
condition properly, I refer you to the SmartCharger article on my website
http://w3fpr.qrpradio.com which shows how I connected an external 3 state
charger to my internal battery (fused for safety).  I operate my QRP K2 from
the battery at all times (no other power source connected) and the 3 state
charger keeps the battery topped off.  One could use a solar panel
controller to charge the battery in place of the AC powered SmartCharger
that I used - I am thinking of adding a solar controller here.

73,
Don w3FPR

 -Original Message-
 Take a look at the charging specifications from the datasheet:

 http://www.powerfactorinc.com/Batteries/ps-1229.htm

 It appears that the 100 - 200 mv drop across the shockey diode is
 acceptable. This lowers the 13.8 volt output from the power
 supply to 13.6
 to 13.7 volts. The float voltage can go as low as 13.5 volts across the
 battery terminals.

 Doug (KE7GYQ)


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[Elecraft] Re: Elecraft Digest, Vol 31, Issue 3

2006-11-03 Thread Cathy James

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

The K2 has a series
diode in the power supply line for reverse polarity protection - that diode
drops about .2 volts.

What that means is: to obtain 13.8 volts at the battery terminals, one must
connect a supply of 14.0 volts to the K2 to maintain full charge on the
battery.

There is an intenal pot in the Astron to adjust the output voltage, so it
may be a simple matter to increase the Astron voltage - locating the correct
pot may be more of a challenge, be certain you adjust the proper pot.

73,
Don W3FPR
  
I adjusted my Astron to 14.1V output using the internal pot, but be 
warned that it is a semi-major project.  The pot is on the underside of 
the small floating board IIRC; every time I wanted to adjust it, I had 
to short out the large electrolytic capacitor in the Astron, unscrew the 
board, pull it up, make a guess as to how much to adjust it, screw it 
back down, power up the supply, check the voltage, see that it's still 
wrong, power down, short out the cap, unscrew the board


There may be an easier way to do it but it wasn't obvious.  I'd guess 
that it took me a dozen iterations.  I don't ever want to mess with it 
again.


What was Astron thinking burying the pot where it can't be safely and 
readily accessed just by removing the cover???


Cathy
N5WVR

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Re: [Elecraft] Re: Elecraft Digest, Vol 31, Issue 3

2006-11-03 Thread Tom Hammond

Cathy:

For future possible adjustments... REMOVE the pot and reinstall it on 
the SOLDER SIDE of the PC board... then it'll be on top where you can 
easily access it!  Saves a LOT OF HASSLE! And it's a SIMPLE one-time 
task to perform.


If you do a lot of voltage adjustment (though few of us do), you 
could always remove that PC-mount pot and replace it with a 
chassis-mount pot (installed on the back of the case) attached to the 
PC board via three wires.


73,

Tom   N0SS

At 07:44 AM 11/3/2006, you wrote:

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

The K2 has a series
diode in the power supply line for reverse polarity protection - that diode
drops about .2 volts.

What that means is: to obtain 13.8 volts at the battery terminals, one must
connect a supply of 14.0 volts to the K2 to maintain full charge on the
battery.

There is an intenal pot in the Astron to adjust the output voltage, so it
may be a simple matter to increase the Astron voltage - locating the correct
pot may be more of a challenge, be certain you adjust the proper pot.

73,
Don W3FPR

I adjusted my Astron to 14.1V output using the internal pot, but be 
warned that it is a semi-major project.  The pot is on the underside 
of the small floating board IIRC; every time I wanted to adjust it, 
I had to short out the large electrolytic capacitor in the Astron, 
unscrew the board, pull it up, make a guess as to how much to adjust 
it, screw it back down, power up the supply, check the voltage, see 
that it's still wrong, power down, short out the cap, unscrew the board


There may be an easier way to do it but it wasn't obvious.  I'd 
guess that it took me a dozen iterations.  I don't ever want to mess 
with it again.


What was Astron thinking burying the pot where it can't be safely 
and readily accessed just by removing the cover???


Cathy
N5WVR

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[Elecraft] Unstable AGC?

2006-11-03 Thread PDouglas12
Hello Elecrafters,

I have recently gotten back to digital modes with the K2.   It is a ten watt 
K2, not the 100 watt version.   Readers of QRP-L may recall my post about 
tracking down trouble with the KI02 which turned out to be a blown IC on the 
KI02 
board. 

Now, another problem has (re?) appeared.   I think it has always been there, 
and it led to my doing the mod to adjust the audio input AGC line on the SSB 
board some time ago.   But, it still is happening.   Here's the problem.

After adjusting the transmitter for either SSTV or PSK31, with any of the 
standard programs, the output stubbornly falls off to less than a watt, 
unpredictably.   When I first adjust the output for PSK31, for instance, the 
radio 
idles at 3 watts and jumps to well over five watts when there is signal--and 
can 
even jump to nearly 7 watts when the program goes into the steady tone before 
it changes over to transmit.   I'm keeping the K2 output setting via the front 
panel power control at five watts.   I'm not feeling any signs of heat 
underneath the K2, so I'm not thinking overheating.   The sound card is NOT 
unstable, 
as it puts out a stable drive to my old Yaesu 757GX (which I can drive 
consistently from 5   to 100 watts, without instability of output.)   The 
interface 
is a commercial interface with a back panel pot to adjust mike input (so 
there's not much chance the input is too low).   Any thoughts on this?   Is 
this a 
common problem?   Oh, and   I   note that switching to CW gives full normal 
output.   

Since the Yaesu is now 20 years old or so, it doesn't do Ham Radio Deluxe, 
which is a great way to operate the K2.   Otherwise, I'd just use the Yaesu 
with 
the power cut.   PSK31 doesn't need a 100 watt rig--five watts are almost 
always plenty.I hate the idea of having to add another rig to the shack, 
just 
for digital modes and computer controlled operation.   Thanks for 
suggestions.

Preston Douglas WJ2V
216 Harborview North
Lawrence, NY 11559
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Re: [Elecraft] SSB output overshoot

2006-11-03 Thread David Honey

At 22:55 02/11/2006, Mike Harris wrote:

G'day,

I have now done the resistor mod to no effect and will probably revert
'cos I don't like how I had to add the 1K0 in series with the base of Q1.


Hi Mike,

ISTR making the ALC *very* much more aggressive to tackle this, 
especially on 80m. I think I cut the track to include a resistor to 
the Q1 base and changed another resistor. I can't remember the 
details (such as the values I ended up using) since it was more than 
a year ago that I was experimenting with this. When I next get a 
chance, I'll open up my K2 to refresh my memory.


Since I made those changes, I don't see any significant difference in 
SSB output levels between bands and it's reasonably well tamed. I do 
find the peak RF on SSB higher than the keyed RF level on CW, but 
that applies to all bands. I've just got used to turning the 
requested power control down a bit to keep within the 400W UK legal 
limit with the K2 driving an Acom 1000, so it's not really been a 
problem. You might want to experiment with more aggressive ALC around 
the Q1 base on the KSB2 to see if you can tame it.


BTW, I have never seen a good explanation that includes an overview 
of the firmware's part in the ALC control. There appear to be two 
separate control loops here. With the later firmware changes to the 
main PIC, one of those control loops only appears to be active in ALC 
meter mode. With earlier (pre KPA100) firmware versions, it would 
apply in RF meter mode, albeit being polled much less frequently, and 
in ALC meter mode with very frequent AUXBUS operation. I had found 
that by monitoring the AUXBUS with a scope in both modes and both 
firmware versions. Elecraft were unaware of this difference but Wayne 
was too busy to respond in detail at the time. The other control loop 
is based on RFDET being fed back and compared with a DAC level using 
the PIC on the KSB2. This seems to be an area of the K2 design that 
would be good to have a decent explanation of including a summary 
pseudo-code algorithm of what the firmware is doing to control the 
ALC. I have yet to see a detailed description how BOTH of these 
control loops work, so if anyone has any more details on this, I'd 
appreciate the wisdom being shared :-)


Good luck,
73, David M0DHO 


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Re: [Elecraft] Powered speakers for K2

2006-11-03 Thread Phil Kane
On Thu, 2 Nov 2006 11:44:51 -0500, George wrote:

I bought a set of Altec Lansing Powered Audio stereo speakers
at Wal Mart last week and am fairly pleased with the sound
quality and volume.

  Can they be run from 12V or internal battery, and are they
  available any place else but Wal-Mart, on line or other?

--
   73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
   Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402



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[Elecraft] Re: CW Sweepstakes Contest

2006-11-03 Thread Todd Fonstad
I’ve worked the CW SS since 1958 when, as a 14-year-old Novice (KN9LWV), I
was thrilled to win the WI Section Novice Award with 103 QSOs in 38
sections. That only took 24 hours and several crystals to accomplish :)
Almost fifty years later, this old body finds it difficult to operate the
full time period, particularly in the wee morning hours and also Sunday
afternoon.

I'll be QRP with my K2 #1429 to a Force 12 C-4SXL 40-10M beam at 70', and a
176' doublet at 65'. I anticipate having to duke it out with the QRO
stations mainly on 40 and 80M here in the upper Midwest, although 20M should
be decent during the day. I believe there is a first-time attempt to get
folks together on 160M during from 0100 to 0200z toward the end of the
contest. Watch 10 and 15M, as these 'dead' bands surprise us with the sudden
rise in propagation during contests!

I'm selling my house, having remarried and moved across town to a
'less-friendly-to-big-antennas' neighborhood. Next year's setup will
probably be more typical of many hams ... a 'stealth' vertical in the
backyard and an attic doublet :(  So, this will be a 'last hurrah' for me
with access to good antennas. 

Good luck to all, and yes, 30M is a good place to escape the madhouse if you
don't like contests.

72/73
Todd
N9NE
Oshkosh, WI

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA 100 fan problem

2006-11-03 Thread Bob G3PJT

Don,

Sorry, I seem to have had a 'senior moment'. On resetting its now OK!  
Sorry for the bandwidth.

Dunno how it got to 220 but one of those things in life.
I will keep taking the pills!

73 Bob G3PJT


Don Wilhelm wrote:

Bob,

If CAL TPA is actually 220, that is much too high - The K2 microprocessor
thinks the heat sink is at 220 degrees C!!
Set it back to match the room temperature in degrees C when the heat sink is
at the ambient temperature. (i.e. 22 rather than 220).

73,
Don W3FPR

  

-Original Message-

Yesterday I turned on and the fan came on even though the heatsink was
cold and when I tried to TX 'PA hot' came on and the PA was inhibited.

1. CAL tpa is 220 which is about right  ~ 22C and Fan menu set  nor.
2. On  TX - Q3 base is 0.6v - which I think is about right (RC4 going
high of course)
3. On U1 RC7 is 5 and RC6 is low which is the correct output for Fan Hi
- which is what it is doing.
4. Power control less than 10w and the K2 sends OK
5. Firmware PA 1.06

Any ideas?

73 Bob G3PJT





  

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[Elecraft] FOX: Mobile Team?

2006-11-03 Thread Todd Fonstad
Todd here again,

I have refrained from posting Fox Hunt information on this reflector but am
getting desperate and hope to interest one or two of you with this proposal.

I am attempting to form a 40M hunt mobile team. We need five folks to form a
team, and I have three at this point. The hunt begins next Thursday evening,
so time is of the essence.

My setup is K2 #1429 @ 5W to a mag-mounted hamstick atop my new Toyota
Yaris. The little car stands a millimeter above five feet, and the hamstick
is over 7' tall. Looks comical, but the setup works great.

We are in this for fun without any pressure whatsoever to 'perform' or make
all the hunts. 

Hunt information can be found on QFOX  http://www.qrpfoxhunt.org  but I can
fill you in on what is important at this point. 

Please drop me an e-mail direct if you need further information or are ready
to join up!

Thanks for the bandwidth.

72/73
Todd
N9NE/M



 

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Re: [Elecraft] PB Run on Nov 3rd Update

2006-11-03 Thread Ron Polityka

Sorry,

Updates at www.n3epa.org 


Standard QRP Freq.

Leaving for the AT in about 20 minutes.

72 and Thanks,
Ron Polityka
WB3AAL
Polar Bear #1
www.wb3aal.com 
www.n3epa.org


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Re: [Elecraft] SSB output overshoot

2006-11-03 Thread Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy

On Friday, November 03, 2006 at 3:27 PM,  David M0DHO wrote:

snip

.I have yet to see a detailed description how BOTH of these control loops 
work, so if anyone has any more details on this, I'd appreciate the wisdom 
being shared :-)


---

Likewise. I have never been too comfortable with RFDET having two sources 
tied together, one source at the output of the K2 and the second at the 
output of the KPA100.


73,
Geoff
GM4ESD



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RE: [Elecraft] SSB output overshoot

2006-11-03 Thread Don Wilhelm
Geoff,

Your question is a lot easier than the control loop question.
The series resistor R66 on the RF board will limit the response of the basic
detector in the base K2 when the other devices are installed - consider that
the KPA100 (and other options that provide the VRFDET signal) use an op amp
output with no series resistor - all options other than the KAT2 use a
tri-state device so it can be enabled or disabled under control of the
microprocessor(s).

This is a bussing technique as opposed to simply connecting several outputs
together.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-
 .I have yet to see a detailed description how BOTH of these
 control loops
 work, so if anyone has any more details on this, I'd appreciate
 the wisdom
 being shared :-)

 ---

 Likewise. I have never been too comfortable with RFDET having two sources
 tied together, one source at the output of the K2 and the second at the
 output of the KPA100.

 73,
 Geoff
 GM4ESD


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Re: [Elecraft] Re: CW Sweepstakes Contest

2006-11-03 Thread John
Todd, I wish you all the best in your efforts tomorrow. In 2002 I was able 
to claw my way up to #2 QRP in the US, only beaten by N6TR, who decided to 
do QRP at W5MWU. I managed to work 881 q's with 79 mults. That was my last 
shot before I moved to my new QTH. At my old QTH I had monobanders, 40M 
thru 10M, with tribanders for SP on the second radio. I was using my 2 
K2's in SO2R configuration. I've been here for almost 2 years now and still 
trying to get up some decent antennas. At age 64 I just don't seem to have 
the gumption to climb towers. I keep telling myself to just do it. So far 
I've managed to erect a short tower, 35', with a tribander (that has a bad 
trap, 20M),  with a Ham III rotor that has a bad motor now. I just can't 
seem to get it going. I have some nice monobanders laying on the ground in 
pieces. Some day I hope to have a 55' tower up with a Skyhawk on it. My 
point is this, give it all you got tomorrow, who knows what next year will 
bring. As you know, SS is fun once you get started doing it, and it is a 
real bummer when you can't join in. To all who may read this, I say give it 
a try, you may get hooked. Another side benefit for QRPers, it's an easy 
way to do WAS. It's a real treat to work all ARRL sections, except VE8, in 
12 hours.


Famous last words, I'll be back

John
k7up


At 09:25 AM 03/11/06, you wrote:

I've worked the CW SS since 1958 when, as a 14-year-old Novice (KN9LWV), I
was thrilled to win the WI Section Novice Award with 103 QSOs in 38
sections. That only took 24 hours and several crystals to accomplish :)
Almost fifty years later, this old body finds it difficult to operate the
full time period, particularly in the wee morning hours and also Sunday
afternoon.

I'll be QRP with my K2 #1429 to a Force 12 C-4SXL 40-10M beam at 70', and a
176' doublet at 65'. I anticipate having to duke it out with the QRO
stations mainly on 40 and 80M here in the upper Midwest, although 20M should
be decent during the day. I believe there is a first-time attempt to get
folks together on 160M during from 0100 to 0200z toward the end of the
contest. Watch 10 and 15M, as these 'dead' bands surprise us with the sudden
rise in propagation during contests!

I'm selling my house, having remarried and moved across town to a
'less-friendly-to-big-antennas' neighborhood. Next year's setup will
probably be more typical of many hams ... a 'stealth' vertical in the
backyard and an attic doublet :(  So, this will be a 'last hurrah' for me
with access to good antennas.

Good luck to all, and yes, 30M is a good place to escape the madhouse if you
don't like contests.

72/73
Todd
N9NE
Oshkosh, WI

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[Elecraft] Heil HMM ic

2006-11-03 Thread Robert L Kalkwarf

Hi,
	Early this year I sold one of my K2 rigs.  Someone saw my Heil HMM  
ic microphone on my desk and ask to buy it.  I lost the ham's info  
regarding the microphone.  Please contact me if you are still  
interested in the HMM ic  It is the early Elecraft noise cancelling  
microphone from Heil that looks a little like the old Motorola hand  
mikes, Ivory in color.


73 Bob W7WO

[EMAIL PROTECTED]
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

I also have a set of Un-PCB's original version that are available.


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[Elecraft] N2CQ QRP Contest Calendar: Nov 2006

2006-11-03 Thread Ken Newman


~
N2CQ QRP CONTEST CALENDAR
November 2006 
~

80 METER FOXHUNT - EACH Wenesday 0200z to 0329z
(Tue 9 PM to 10:29 PM EST)
Info: http://www.qrpfoxhunt.org/
~
40 METER FOXHUNT - Each Friday 0200z to 0329z
(Thurs 9 PM to 10:29 PM EST)
Info: http://www.qrpfoxhunt.org/
~
HA-QRP Contest (CW - 80 Meters) *** QRP Contest***
Nov 1, z to Nov 7, 2400z
Rules: http://www.radiovilag.hu/haqrp2.htm
~
Ukrainian DX Contest (CW/SSB) ... QRP Category
Nov 4, 1200z to Nov 5, 1200z
Rules: http://www.ucc.zp.ua/urdxc2006rules_eng.htm
~
ARRL Sweepstakes (CW) ... QRP Category 
Nov 4, 2100z to Nov 6, 0300z

Rules: http://www.arrl.org/contests/calendar.html?year=2006
~
High Speed Club Contest (CW) ... QRP Category
Nov 5, 0900z to 1100z and 1500z to 1700z
Rules: http://www.dl3bzz.de/html/hscconte.html
~
Adventure Radio Spartan Sprint (CW) *** QRP Contest***
EST: Nov 6, 9 PM - 11 PM
UTC: Nov 7, 0200z to 0400z
Rules: http://www.arsqrp.com/
~
80 METER FOXHUNT (Each Tuesday)
EST: Tue Nov 7, 9 PM to 10:29 PM
UTC: Wed Nov 8, 0200z to 0329z
Info: http://www.qrpfoxhunt.org/
~
40 METER FOXHUNT (Each Thursday)
EST: Thurs Nov 9, 9 PM to 10:29 PM
UTC: Fri  Nov 10, 0200z to 0329z
Info: http://www.qrpfoxhunt.org/
~
WAE RTTY Contest (Digital)... 100W Category
Nov 11, z to Nov 12, 2359z
Rules: http://www.darc.de/referate/dx/xedcwr.htm
~
Japan International DX Contest (phone)... 100w category
Nov 11, 0700z to Nov 12, 1300z
Rules: http://jidx.org/jidxrule-e.html
~
OK/OM DX Contest (CW) ... QRP Category!
Nov 11, 1200z to Nov 12, 1200z 
Rules: http://okomdx.crk.cz/

~
Kentucky QSO Party (CW/Ph) 
Nov 11, 1400z to Nov 12, 0600z

Rules: http://www.arrl.org/contests/months/nov.html
~
NAQCC Straight Key/Bug Sprint *** QRP CONTEST! ***
EST: Nov 15, 8:30 PM to 10:30 PM
UTC: Nov 16, 0130z to 0330z
Rules: http://www.arm-tek.net/~yoel/contests.html
~
YO International PSK31 Contest (80 Meters) ... 50W max
Nov 17, 1600z to 2200z
Rules: http://hamat5.atw.hu/PSKrul2006en.html
~
LZ DX CONTEST (CW/SSB) ... QRP Category
Nov 18, 1200z to Nov 19, 1200z

Rules: http://www.qsl.net/lz1fw/contest/
~
ARRL Sweepstakes (Phone) ... QRP Category
Nov 18, 2100z to Nov 20, 0300z
Rules: http://www.arrl.org/contests/calendar.html?year=2006
~
HOT Party (CW) ... QRP Category
Nov 19, 1300z to 1500z (40 Meters)
Nov 19, 1500z to 1700z (80 Meters)
(HOMEBREW  OLDTIME - EQUIPMENT - PARTY) 
Rules: http://www.qrpcc.de/

~
RUN FOR THE BACON (CW) *** QRP CONTEST ***
EST: Nov 19, 9 PM to 11 PM
UTC: Nov 20, 0200z 0400z
Rules: http://fpqrp.com
~
CQ World Wide DX Contest (CW) ... QRP Category!
Nov 25, z to Nov 26, 2400z
Rules: http://www.cqww.com/
~
QRP BARBERSHOP QUARTET CONTEST (CW QRP)... QRP Contest!
Nov 29, 9 PM to 11 PM EST  
Rules: http://www.io.com/~n5fc/barbershop_contest.htm

~
QRP ARCI Topband CW  SSB Sprint *** QRP CONTEST ***
Nov 30, z to 0600z 
Rules: http://www.qrparci.org/

~
Thanks to SM3CER, WA7BNM, N0AX(ARRL) and others 
for assistance in compiling this calendar. 

Please foreward the contest info you sponsor 
to [EMAIL PROTECTED] and we will post it and give 
it more publicity.  Anyone may use this 
N2CQ QRP Contest Calendar for your website,
newsletter, e-mail list or other media as you choose.  
(Include a credit to the source of this material of course.)

72 de
Ken Newman - N2CQ 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


http://www.amqrp.org/contesting/contesting.html
http://www.n3epa.org/Pages/Contest/contest.htm

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: 50 years

2006-11-03 Thread Phil Kane
On Tue, 31 Oct 2006 09:54:16 -0800, Bob W7AVK wrote:

I too was an early 1950s young teen ager with a new WN7VZX call
not not long after the novice license was created.  In those days
the FCC was still going through the available W7 three letter
combinations in order the first time since starting in the late
1920s. A few years later they went back and reissued the old
calls that had been dropped and my dad received WN7AVK.   Which I
asked for and received after his passing.  :-)

  I too received my first call (this one) in 1952 while I was in
  high school.  My buddies got the last of the W2s and I had to
  settle for one from the first batch of the K2s.  Boy, was I
  steamed !!

  But I got even with the FCCI worked for them for 30 years,
  retiring 11+ years ago. Neither they nor I emerged the same
  from that experience g !!

  Vic -- congrats on getting to 50 years.  It didn't happen by
  accident.

--
   73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
   Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402



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[Elecraft] High current question

2006-11-03 Thread Bill Carpenter
My K2/100 is indicating high current draw on a portion of 40 meters but only 
on the antenna.  On the dummy load there is no problem.  It's not high SWR 
as both antennas it happens with (double bazooka and ground mounted 
Butternut vert) indicate low SWR on my MFJ analyzer, SWR meter and the K2. 
This occurs at full power of around 100 watts.  Any ideas on what may be 
causing this?  I'm using my Drake PS7 power supply which has more than 
enough amperage and minimal voltage drop.


Thanks and 73,

Bill NZ0T 



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Re: [Elecraft] SSB output overshoot

2006-11-03 Thread Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy

Don,

Thank you for putting me straight on this. On the control loop question I 
agree with David, M0DHO, that an explanation of the workings of the ALC 
system would be useful not only in its dynamic state but also in its static 
state.


73,
Geoff
GM4ESD

- Original Message - 


Geoff,

Your question is a lot easier than the control loop question.
The series resistor R66 on the RF board will limit the response of the 
basic
detector in the base K2 when the other devices are installed - consider 
that
the KPA100 (and other options that provide the VRFDET signal) use an op 
amp

output with no series resistor - all options other than the KAT2 use a
tri-state device so it can be enabled or disabled under control of the
microprocessor(s).

This is a bussing technique as opposed to simply connecting several 
outputs

together.

73,
Don W3FPR





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Re: [Elecraft] High current question

2006-11-03 Thread Jay Schwisow

Bill,

I have had this problem twice.  Check and/or tighten all connections 
around the 239 on the back of the amp.  Once it was a broken solder 
connection on the  tab and another times the screws had come loose.


73's,

Jay - KT5E

Bill Carpenter wrote:
My K2/100 is indicating high current draw on a portion of 40 meters 
but only on the antenna.  On the dummy load there is no problem.  It's 
not high SWR as both antennas it happens with (double bazooka and 
ground mounted Butternut vert) indicate low SWR on my MFJ analyzer, 
SWR meter and the K2. This occurs at full power of around 100 watts.  
Any ideas on what may be causing this?  I'm using my Drake PS7 power 
supply which has more than enough amperage and minimal voltage drop.


Thanks and 73,

Bill NZ0T

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Re: [Elecraft] Unstable AGC?

2006-11-03 Thread Mike Harris
G'day,

What bands would this be happening on?  Sounds awful familiar.

Regards,

Mike VP8NO

| After adjusting the transmitter for either SSTV or PSK31, with any of 
the
| standard programs, the output stubbornly falls off to less than a watt,
| unpredictably.   When I first adjust the output for PSK31, for instance, 
the radio
| idles at 3 watts and jumps to well over five watts when there is 
signal--and can
| even jump to nearly 7 watts when the program goes into the steady tone 
before
| it changes over to transmit.   I'm keeping the K2 output setting via the 
front
| panel power control at five watts. 

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[Elecraft] Re: CW Sweepstakes Contest

2006-11-03 Thread Robert W Coakley
 
I hope to be on for a lot of the contestwith a K2 at 100 W from ME.  My
dipole or sorta horizontal loop won't knock anyone over, especially on
80, but I hope to see a lot of you this weekend.

73,
Bob
KX1E


 
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: Elecraft Digest, Vol 31, Issue 3

2006-11-03 Thread Cathy James


Tom, that's a great idea,and it never occurred to me.  However, it will 
probably be years before I need to change the voltage again, so at this 
point I doubt I'll bother. Thanks for the tip, though!


Cathy

Tom Hammond wrote:

Cathy:

For future possible adjustments... REMOVE the pot and reinstall it on 
the SOLDER SIDE of the PC board... then it'll be on top where you can 
easily access it!  Saves a LOT OF HASSLE! And it's a SIMPLE one-time 
task to perform.


If you do a lot of voltage adjustment (though few of us do), you could 
always remove that PC-mount pot and replace it with a chassis-mount 
pot (installed on the back of the case) attached to the PC board via 
three wires.


73,

Tom   N0SS

At 07:44 AM 11/3/2006, you wrote:

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

The K2 has a series
diode in the power supply line for reverse polarity protection - 
that diode

drops about .2 volts.

What that means is: to obtain 13.8 volts at the battery terminals, 
one must

connect a supply of 14.0 volts to the K2 to maintain full charge on the
battery.

There is an intenal pot in the Astron to adjust the output voltage, 
so it
may be a simple matter to increase the Astron voltage - locating the 
correct

pot may be more of a challenge, be certain you adjust the proper pot.

73,
Don W3FPR

I adjusted my Astron to 14.1V output using the internal pot, but be 
warned that it is a semi-major project.  The pot is on the underside 
of the small floating board IIRC; every time I wanted to adjust it, I 
had to short out the large electrolytic capacitor in the Astron, 
unscrew the board, pull it up, make a guess as to how much to adjust 
it, screw it back down, power up the supply, check the voltage, see 
that it's still wrong, power down, short out the cap, unscrew the 
board


There may be an easier way to do it but it wasn't obvious.  I'd guess 
that it took me a dozen iterations.  I don't ever want to mess with 
it again.


What was Astron thinking burying the pot where it can't be safely and 
readily accessed just by removing the cover???


Cathy
N5WVR

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Re: [Elecraft] Now what did I do??-Delay in Sidetone Turning Back On

2006-11-03 Thread Jeff
Jerry and gang,

When one changes the sidetone source to the proper setting via the menu, the
sidetone doesn't always come back right away.  It seems to come back after
the rig is turned off and back on.  At least, that's what happened with my
rig, and it sounds like what happened with yours.

73  72,
Jeff
WB5GWB
Long Island, NY

- Original Message - 
From: nr5a [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: nr5a [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2006 5:24 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Now what did I do??


 Guess what? Its back my sidetone is back. What did I do? Well I have no
 clue. Several people yesterday made comments on what to do, I tried them
all
 and never could get the sidetone to work. Last thing I did last night was
 key the rig just for grins and of course no sidetone.

 One of the first things I did this morning was fire up the rig and guess
 what, sidetone works FB.

 Ain't electronics great? I have no clue.

 Jerry - NR5A - South Dakota
 - Original Message - 
 From: nr5a [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 4:05 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] Now what did I do??


 I pulled the KAT-2 out of my K2 because it looks like I've managed to
blow
 the diodes out for the 2nd time. How hard is it to remove it? What could
I
 possibly screw up? Take the top cover off, pull the 2 cables, take the
nuts
 of the 2 bnc connectors and remove the ground lug. I mean what could I
 possibly have done?
 
  Next hooked my T-1 auto tuner in line, went to menu and changed InP to
  Hand. Check it and that works just like its suppose to.
 
  But... my sidetone is gone?? What did I mess up this
time
  and how?
 
  Some years aren't my year, maybe 2007 will be better??
 
  Jerry - NR5A ___
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Re: [Elecraft] Now what did I do??

2006-11-03 Thread Joe-aa4nn

If it were me I would look at all the PCB traces having to do
with the sidetone and I would touch up those component leads
with a soldering iron.  Something in that chain is intermittent
and your sidetone is... now you have it, now you don't.
de Joe, aa4nn

- Original Message - 
From: nr5a [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: nr5a [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2006 5:24 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Now what did I do??


Guess what? Its back my sidetone is back. What did I do? Well I have no 
clue. Several people yesterday made comments on what to do, I tried them 
all and never could get the sidetone to work. Last thing I did last night 
was key the rig just for grins and of course no sidetone.


One of the first things I did this morning was fire up the rig and guess 
what, sidetone works FB.


Ain't electronics great? I have no clue.

Jerry - NR5A - South Dakota


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Re: [Elecraft] Re: Elecraft Digest, Vol 31, Issue 3

2006-11-03 Thread N2EY
In a message dated 11/3/06 8:45:55 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 What was Astron thinking burying the pot where it can't be safely and 
 readily accessed just by removing the cover???
 

They didn't want you to adjust it!

73 de Jim, N2EY
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RE: [Elecraft] OT: 50 years

2006-11-03 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Phil, K2ASP, wrote:
  I too received my first call (this one) in 1952 while I was in
  high school.  My buddies got the last of the W2s and I had to
  settle for one from the first batch of the K2s.  Boy, was I
  steamed !!


When, in '52 I got W6QAS... That is Wn6QAS... After an interminable wait of
about 8 weeks after passing the Novice code and written test at the FCC
offices, a buddy about a mile away got an unwelcome surprise. The FCC issued
him a K call: Kn6ABD. Everyone knew that the K prefix was used *only*
for Ham stations in the military. For example K6USA was the 6th ARMY Hq
station at Fort Ord that I operated about ten years later. 

Anyway, he was crushed and waited until the next day to call the FCC to see
what he should do. They explained that there was no mistake. The 6 region
(California) had run out of W calls an the FCC was now issuing K prefixes
to non-military licensees. 

All the guys I met who got their calls about the same time I did had
assignments scattered all over the sequence, so it was pretty obvious they
were reassigning old calls that were unused. But with the huge rush of
Novice licensees in the early 50's they didn't last long in the more
populated areas like 6-land and 2-land. Very soon only K calls were being
issued. Of course there were no two-letter prefixes in use then. It was
either a W or a K and a number. 

I looked forward to getting W6QA one day when I qualified. It used to be one
had to be a Ham for a number of years before one could even apply for an
Extra class license or a 1x2 call. By the time I qualified, they were no
more. And then in the 1970s, it was a matter of taking deep breath and
jumping in with an application for a new 2X1 calls the first day they were
accepted in the 70's and I got AC6Y. Very nice CW call. The 76th 2X1 issued
in California. 

Then, when I moved to Oregon in '98 I was faced with another issue. I had
argued long and hard against allowing Hams to move out of a call district
and keep their old call. How in the world will anyone know where the station
is by their call if they do that, I asked. But expediency won over tradition
and the requirement to have a call that matched the QTH was dropped. But,
after spouting off so much about it, I just couldn't hang on to AC6Y while
living in Oregon. It wasn't right. So when I submitted my change of address
I checked give me a new call and waited to see what the FCC computer might
spit out. It came back with AC7AC. Guess I was just fated to have some AC on
my signal. 

Shoot, Phil lives only a few miles from me here and I every time I see his
call I think he must be back east G. 

Ron AC7AC

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[Elecraft] test

2006-11-03 Thread David A.Belsley

test message, please forget

david a belsley
professor of economics
boston college


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[Elecraft] High Current Question

2006-11-03 Thread David A.Belsley

Bill:
You don't tell us where the MFJ is going into the line.  Is the  
same coax that feeds the antenna being plugged into the MFJ? or is it  
reading from a different point?


dave belsley, w1euy



My K2/100 is indicating high current draw on a portion of 40 meters  
but only on the antenna.  On the dummy load there is no problem.   
It's not high SWR as both antennas it happens with (double bazooka  
and ground mounted Butternut vert) indicate low SWR on my MFJ  
analyzer, SWR meter and the K2. This occurs at full power of around  
100 watts.  Any ideas on what may be causing this?  I'm using my  
Drake PS7 power supply which has more than enough amperage and  
minimal voltage drop.


Thanks and 73,

Bill NZ0T




david a belsley
professor of economics
boston college


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Re: [Elecraft] Re: Elecraft Digest, Vol 31, Issue 3

2006-11-03 Thread Cathy James
One thing I never want to see on any ham radio equipment:  No 
user-serviceable parts inside.


Cathy, N5WVR

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
In a message dated 11/3/06 8:45:55 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

What was Astron thinking burying the pot where it can't be safely and
readily accessed just by removing the cover???

They didn't want you to adjust it!

73 de Jim, N2EY


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[Elecraft] KAT2 Question....is mine working?

2006-11-03 Thread Chuck
I just finished my KAT2, everything cal'd and aligned according to the
manual using my DL1 dummy load.

When I hook the tuner up to my (10 - 40M) attic dipole and use the tune,
I am expecting to hear some relay sounds, but nothing? Within a few
second the tuner turns off and give me a (allways) SWR of 1.0 : 1 across
all bands.

The same is true, even 80M. 

I really expected to hear some kind of clicking from the relays using
80M, given what it is feeding into. 

When in the cal mode I can get each one to click when using ht ATU
parameters L0 to L8, C0 to 8 and N1,N2

I was able to get C55 down to 004 and R1 and R2 are aligned with what
power the DL1 chart reads for voltage vs. output.

Thanks,

Chuck - K3TNT
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: 50 years

2006-11-03 Thread Ian Stirling
  I became interested in Amateur Radio, 1975 when a friend
showed me his single transistor, FM 'transmitter'. Later
I learned it was just an unbuffered Colpitts oscillator,
about five turns of copper in the coil and a something
picofarad capacitor and the 300 ohm twin aerial as part of
the tuned circuit, modulated by a tape deck line output on
the base of the BD235 transistor.

  When I discovered Amateur Radio, the literature of the day
said that KA+3 callsigns were American military stationed in
Japan.  Earning my G4ICV in 1979, I learned quickly that
those KA callsigns, most of them, were novices in the
21.1 to 21.2 MHz band.

  I have 'Worked All States' CW as G4ICV, and probably half
of my QSL cards are from novices in that segment - a few of
them joyously declaring in CW and on the cards that I was
their first DX.
 What a forlorn band that is now.

Ian, G4ICV (1979), AB2GR (1999), K2 #4962 (2005)
relative rookie at just 27 years as a Radio Amateur.
--
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: Elecraft Digest, Vol 31, Issue 3

2006-11-03 Thread Rick Dettinger


 One thing I never want to see on any ham radio equipment:  No
 user-serviceable parts inside.

 Cathy, N5WVR

That was one of several reasons I sold my TS850S in 2000 to buy a K2.
Another was that I didn't like the notion that Kenwood wanted me  to send my
ham gear back to the factory to get the battery changed.  And when I built a
QRP kit in 1998 (TenTec 1340) I found out what good QSK sounded like, and I
was never happy with the 850 again.
73
Rick Dettinger
K7MW

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[Elecraft] Message Reply Etiquette

2006-11-03 Thread Bernard Gaffney
Hi,

  I'm not a relector moderator or anything like that,
just a simple (minded) reflector user. I've noticed
that when replying to a reflector Post, many people
don't bother to edit the original Post to include just
the minimum needed in relation to their Post...so you
wind up re-reading the original Post. This can get
tedious, especially if the original was lengthy, and
more especially when replying to a previous reply, and
including the whole fershlungener mass.

  Please, a little Message Reply Etiqutte, only citing
the absolute minimum of the orginal Post would go a
long way towards making reading Postings easier and
more enjoyable, not to mention reducing bandwith.
After all, most keyboards DO have a Delete key.

  Just my humble opinion..

Let the Flame War begin!

 72 de N8PVZ
   ---bernie
  


 

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