Re: [Elecraft] wire antennas
Yea, that is what has been keeping me away from 160m. I have several on going projects, and I can't start one of that magnitude now. Might have room for a dipole, so will just have to try that. Once I order some ladder line. David Wilburn [EMAIL PROTECTED] Don Wilhelm wrote: Dave, As far as switching your loop to a 160 top loaded vertical, yes you can do it remotely with relays and a matching network. If your goal is efficiency on 160 meters, the relay switching os only a small part of the equation - you must have a good RF ground for the vertical to work against, and that menas lots of wires in the ground, radiating from the base of the antenna. Some will tell you tht 120 radials will give optimum performance, but 16 or more will give great performance as well. If the radials are buried, the length is not critical, lots of short buried radials will do almost as good as a moderate number of long ones - see the 160 meter antenna simulation results that are outlined on L B Cebik's website www.cebik.com. More information on low band antennas can be found in ON4UN's Low Band DXing book - there are many possibilities. For best results, put the 160 meter matching network at the base of the antenna and match it to your feedline. Since there are many possibilities, make some decision even though it may be a compromise and you too can be successful on 'top-band'. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I am very much enjoying reading the discussions on wire antennas. I have something I have been trying to figure out how to do for some time, and thought this might be a good place to ask. I have an 80m loop, up about 60 or 70 feet. Currently it is fed with 300 ohm line. All I could find at the time, as what I had left in 450 ohm line (after I helped my elderly neighbor get his antenna back up, and gave him some of the ladder line) was not long enough. Additionally, I went to the local hamfest this weekend and could not find a single vendor selling ladder line, but I digress. I have approximately 290 feet of wire in the air in a horizontal, triangular configuration, fed with (soon to be) ladder line, a balun (1:1) and then coax to the shack. Is it possible to switch this (seems possible from what I have read) to a 160m antenna by taking one side to ground at the balun and feeding the other side? If this is possible, is there a way to do this remotely? David Wilburn [EMAIL PROTECTED] K4DGW -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.18.3/694 - Release Date: 2/20/2007 1:44 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] wire antennas
Yes, and it doesn't work. This is the second 80m horizontal loop I have had, and they just do not like going low. David Wilburn [EMAIL PROTECTED] Don wrote: Have you tried using the antenna on 160 through a tuner just as it is? Chances are you can match it even on 160M and if you do you will not have to worry about the ground losses you would have feeding it against ground (unless using lots of radials). Don K7FJ - Original Message - From: David Wilburn [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2007 8:07 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] wire antennas I am very much enjoying reading the discussions on wire antennas. I have something I have been trying to figure out how to do for some time, and thought this might be a good place to ask. I have an 80m loop, up about 60 or 70 feet. Currently it is fed with 300 ohm line. All I could find at the time, as what I had left in 450 ohm line (after I helped my elderly neighbor get his antenna back up, and gave him some of the ladder line) was not long enough. Additionally, I went to the local hamfest this weekend and could not find a single vendor selling ladder line, but I digress. I have approximately 290 feet of wire in the air in a horizontal, triangular configuration, fed with (soon to be) ladder line, a balun (1:1) and then coax to the shack. Is it possible to switch this (seems possible from what I have read) to a 160m antenna by taking one side to ground at the balun and feeding the other side? If this is possible, is there a way to do this remotely? David Wilburn [EMAIL PROTECTED] K4DGW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] k1 - frequency range..
when i built my k1, i set it up for the 150khz range.. looking back at my manual, it says that it is strongly advised to use the 80khz range.. is it strongly enough advised for me to mod my machine and put it back to the 80khz range? thanks! -- ___ peace, sergio photographer, journalist, visionary www.village-buzz.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] wire antennas
If I disconnected one side of the loop from balun, at that point (at least from what I have looked at on the web) it is similar to an inverted L with the wire wondering around instead of going off in one direction like it should. At that point, an inverted L would need radials. Problem is, this is right at the back side of my house, there is a deck and then an above ground pool. So looking at it from above, I could only get radials on about a 90 degree portion. Seems like a lot of trouble to go to for such a small foot print. I had originally hoped to put enough wire in the air for a 160m loop, but my best estimates put me about 100 ft too short. David Wilburn [EMAIL PROTECTED] Dale Putnam wrote: I would be wanting to try to utilize it as a top loaded vertical, tie the twinlead feeder together, then treat it as a vertical on 160. The loop as a loop presents tuff to match situation for most tuners. They just run out of capability at that low end. You might try moving the length of feedline with a set of coils, one in each lead, you may be able to move the match enough using the length of feedline to help the tuner get into a working situation. Worth the effort tho. That should work nicely and let you hear well too. --... ...-- Dale - WC7S in Wy Discover the new Windows Vista Learn more! http://search.msn.com/results.aspx?q=windows+vistamkt=en-USform=QBRE ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] How Much Bench Real Estate is Required to Construct a K2?
So far I have been soldering in a space of about 2' x 2', and building in a space of about 1' x 4'. I have sorted the parts out into a couple of plastic containers (not the ESD sensitive stuff). I have the container laid out to the side, and the card in front of me for building. It is a bit more cramped than I would like to be, and I put all the stuff up when I am not building as the table is the keyboard area for this computer and my work computer. Not an optimal setup, but it is working so far. David Wilburn [EMAIL PROTECTED] Wyn Hughes wrote: Does anyone have a smaller bench? Search against 'vr2ax' in qrz.com (recently updated entry) It is actually a real photo and my idea of 'multi-tasing. ' I had built and tested the control and front boards when the photo was taken, was wondering where to fit the larger mainboard. 73 Wyn, VR2AX ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] wire antennas
Not sure where you are suggesting I open it. I was considering disconnecting the feedline on one side where it connected to the balun. Is this what you mean. My apologies if it is a silly question. David Wilburn [EMAIL PROTECTED] Rick Hiller wrote: Dave, Another possibility for 160 -- Don't know to what extent/effort you want to go to get on 160, but here is an easy way, although, a bit of a compromise. Simply open the loop at one of the 80 meter voltage loops (also a current node). The 80 meter standing wave current distribution /performance will not change, but it will force the wire to be an off center fed 1/2 wavelength for 160. Although not quite resonant within the 160 meter band, if you feed it with open wire and run it thru the appropriate matching network, you should be right. Quite possibly, if you adjust your overall length you might be able to find a length that is 1 wl on 80 where you need it and 1/2 wl on 160 close to where you want to work. Have a look at this in EZNEC to see how it will work for you in your particular situation. I use this method to run 80 on my 40 meter delta loop. It is a lot easier than relays and switches, but Don's good suggestion might be the preferred solution for you. GL...Rick -- W5RH Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2007 23:47:33 -0500 From: Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [Elecraft] wire antennas To: David Wilburn [EMAIL PROTECTED], elecraft@mailman.qth.net Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Dave, As far as switching your loop to a 160 top loaded vertical, yes you can do it remotely with relays and a matching network. If your goal is efficiency on 160 meters, the relay switching os only a small part of the equation - you must have a good RF ground for the vertical to work against, and that menas lots of wires in the ground, radiating from the base of the antenna. Some will tell you tht 120 radials will give optimum performance, but 16 or more will give great performance as well. If the radials are buried, the length is not critical, lots of short buried radials will do almost as good as a moderate number of long ones - see the 160 meter antenna simulation results that are outlined on L B Cebik's website www.cebik.com. More information on low band antennas can be found in ON4UN's Low Band DXing book - there are many possibilities. For best results, put the 160 meter matching network at the base of the antenna and match it to your feedline. Since there are many possibilities, make some decision even though it may be a compromise and you too can be successful on 'top-band'. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I am very much enjoying reading the discussions on wire antennas. I have something I have been trying to figure out how to do for some time, and thought this might be a good place to ask. I have an 80m loop, up about 60 or 70 feet. Currently it is fed with 300 ohm line. All I could find at the time, as what I had left in 450 ohm line (after I helped my elderly neighbor get his antenna back up, and gave him some of the ladder line) was not long enough. Additionally, I went to the local hamfest this weekend and could not find a single vendor selling ladder line, but I digress. I have approximately 290 feet of wire in the air in a horizontal, triangular configuration, fed with (soon to be) ladder line, a balun (1:1) and then coax to the shack. Is it possible to switch this (seems possible from what I have read) to a 160m antenna by taking one side to ground at the balun and feeding the other side? If this is possible, is there a way to do this remotely? David Wilburn [EMAIL PROTECTED] K4DGW -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.18.3/694 - Release Date: 2/20/2007 1:44 PM -- Message: 2 Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2007 23:46:42 -0500 From: Matthew D. Pitts [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Custom K2? To: Bob Nielsen [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed So tempting... I haven't fiddled with Linux in a few years and might be able to scrounge up a PC to run it on (I think all I'm missing for a working system amongst the parts I have is a power supply). Bob Nielsen wrote: On Feb 20, 2007, at 3:32 PM, Ian Stirling wrote: On Tuesday 20 February 2007 18:19, you wrote: Rig control software for people who use real computers (Fedora Core here). http://www.hamsoftware.org/ Haven't used it, but saw your comment and did a quick google. This is the first one I ran across, may be others. Are you on Mac or Linux? Because there were quite a few choices for Mac also. Multiplexing myself between my kubuntu/gnu/linux computer and cooking cream of scallion soup. I've recently switched to kubuntu from FreeBSD 6.1. There are a lot of good ham apps suitable for
Re: [Elecraft] twin lead not just HF
There is a book called Crustal Fier about the invention of the transistor. In it, I read that Shockley wanted to make an FET, but Brattain and Bardeen, working for him, semi-secretly switched to working on a point-contact device which was easier to get working. As a result, Brattain's name was left off the patent, leading to a bitter rift which, aided by personality, eventually lead to the dissolution of Shockley Transistor and the mutiny of a eight scientists who in 1957 started the fair-headed stepchild company, which they called Fairchild Semiconductor. Two of the founders of Fairchild, Robert Noyce and Gordon Moore, left to found Intel, giving us semiconductor memory and microprocessors. So, while we may have lost 20 years due to the frustrations of working with BJT over FET, the ensuing currents moved many others to fulfill their potentials. The rest of the story is even more detailed and nuanced...Crystal Fire, the Birth of the Information Age. Leigh/WA5ZNU On Tue, 20 Feb 2007 9:34 pm, Tierra del Mar Labs wrote: Kind'a like the Bi-Polar and the FET in the first days of the transistorwho made the mistake of going the Bi-Polar way anyway, we must have lost 20 years of technology to this. 73 Jeremy w7eme ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KSB2 SSB Use Report
I wanted to report that the K2 (#5230) with KSB2 SSB board and Kenwood MC 43S mic was used for my first contact with a local ham. He has a K2 and was interested in hearing my radio because he has never heard a K2 voice transmission. Said I sounded fine and the mic and board were working well. 73, Dale, kc9cwb ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] 160m ant
If your interested Here is My loaded 160M antenna. http://www.kc5wa.us/ANT160M.JPG BW is a bit narrow but works FB. RC kc5wa - Rick Hiller wrote: Dave, Another possibility for 160 -- Don't know to what extent/effort you want to go to get on 160, but here is an easy way, although, a bit of a compromise. Simply open the loop at one of the 80 meter voltage loops (also a current node). The 80 meter standing wave current distribution /performance will not change, but it will force the wire to be an off center fed 1/2 wavelength for 160. Although not quite resonant within the 160 meter band, if you feed it with open wire and run it thru the appropriate matching network, you should be right. Quite possibly, if you adjust your overall length you might be able to find a length that is 1 wl on 80 where you need it and 1/2 wl on 160 close to where you want to work. Have a look at this in EZNEC to see how it will work for you in your particular situation. I use this method to run 80 on my 40 meter delta loop. It is a lot easier than relays and switches, but Don's good suggestion might be the preferred solution for you. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] wire antennas
-Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] If I disconnected one side of the loop from balun, at that point (at least from what I have looked at on the web) it is similar to an inverted L with the wire wondering around instead of going off in one direction like it should. At that point, an inverted L would need radials. Problem is, this is right at the back side of my house, there is a deck and then an above ground pool. So looking at it from above, I could only get radials on about a 90 degree portion. Seems like a lot of trouble to go to for such a small foot print. --- Sounds to me like the loop is up in the air and the feedline drops down to near the ground, right outside the house. It then goes into a balun, and coax runs from the balun into the shack. Hope that's right. If so, what I would do is this: 1) Disconnect *both* wires of the feedline from the balun. Tie them together. 2) Disconnect coax from balun 3) Connect an unbalanced tuner (simple L network?) between balun and the two feedline wires which are tied together. 4) Connect ground system to tuner 5) Adjust tuner for minimum SWR In such a system the vertical feedline does much of the radiating. The loop does some, and also acts as a sort of top-hat loading. The main benefit is the feedpoint Z Of course you need a ground system, and the pool/deck are in the way. So run the wires and rods that you can. Better than nothing. If it were me, I'd try this out temporarily (wires on top of ground, tuner in a plastic bag to keep the weather off, etc.) just to see how it works. If it seemed OK, then I'd do a permanent system with relays, remote-control tuner, buried radials, etc., when the weather improves. 73 de Jim, N2EY Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more. =0 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] wire antennas
Dave, Open it at the point 180 degrees (midway around) from the feedpoint. If your existing loop is a full wavelength on 80 meters, opening it will turn the loop into a folded back 1/2 wave dipole on 160 meters - not as good as straight out, but it should work since you are feeding the line with a tuner anyway. In fact, you may be able to make it automatic by using a trap tuned to 160 meters - that will electrically open the loop on 160 and only add some inductnce on the other bands. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Not sure where you are suggesting I open it. I was considering disconnecting the feedline on one side where it connected to the balun. Is this what you mean. My apologies if it is a silly question. David Wilburn [EMAIL PROTECTED] Rick Hiller wrote: Dave, Another possibility for 160 -- Don't know to what extent/effort you want to go to get on 160, but here is an easy way, although, a bit of a compromise. Simply open the loop at one of the 80 meter voltage loops (also a current node). The 80 meter standing wave current distribution /performance will not change, but it will force the wire to be an off center fed 1/2 wavelength for 160. Although not quite resonant within the 160 meter band, if you feed it with open wire and run it thru the appropriate matching network, you should be right. -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.18.3/694 - Release Date: 2/20/2007 1:44 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] New guy checking in...
Hi All.. Just introducing myself. I'll probably be around for awhile as I will soon be ordering a K2. I built dozens of Heathkits back in the day and I've built quite a few homebrew audio amps and guitar amps (mostly vintage Fender and Marshall circuits). I have a fondness for tube gear and I'm currently using vintage Heath ham gear (SB-301 rx, SB-401 tx and SB-201 amp). The only modern rigs I've ever owned are the Yaesu FT-100, FT-897 and FT-900. I wasn't overly impressed with any of them, and I always seem to drift back to vintage tube gear. I recently started reading up on QRP and I'm ready to try my hand at using low power for a change. I've never done that. After much research for the ideal QRP rig, it seems the K2 is the way to go. I figure any product that can score 4.9/5.0 on eHam with 118 reviews must stand on merit rather than hype. Plus, after following this reflector for a few weeks, I can see that a very valuable user knowledge base exists. It's a no-brainer. I'm really looking forward to building this rig and hearing that remarkable receiver that everyone seems to be talking about. It sure will be nice to work QSK CW without hearing those relays chatter. I trust it will work well with my Hustler 6BTV vertical. I've made an agreement with the XYL that I will not put any new money into my toys, so I must recycle. I have a Neumann studio mic on ebay that should more than cover the cost of the K2. :- 73, David Fleming W4SMT ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KRC2
Hi I would like to use a KRC2 with my K2 to; bandswith my amp bandswitch my tuner (better yet set switchs on band segments) control a remote antenna switch (multiple bands for each antenna) provide one button tune for the tuning I would like to hit a button somewhere and have: the amp locked out put K2 in tune mode put tuner in tune mode The amp and tuner have remote control capabilities. From the various docs it looks like the first three are possible (except mayby band segment). Am I correct? The tune button is more of a question. Several sources mention great capabilities with a configuration program that I can not find anywhere. Does this program exist? Can the KCR2 act on frequency data from the K2 or a control computer? Bob KD8CGH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] k1 - frequency range..
When I built my K1 I built it for 150 KHz tuning. I wanted more band coverage. It tuned too fast. So I changed it to about 100 KHz. And now I have it set to the STRONGLY ADVISED setting. It is wonderful to have a rig that you can open up and try some wild idea that you have. Some pics and info on my station at: http://tyrrell.us/amateur/ 73, Ty, W1TF K1 # 1423 --- sergio t. ruiz [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: when i built my k1, i set it up for the 150khz range.. looking back at my manual, it says that it is strongly advised to use the 80khz range.. is it strongly enough advised for me to mod my machine and put it back to the 80khz range? thanks! -- ___ peace, sergio photographer, journalist, visionary www.village-buzz.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com Finding fabulous fares is fun. Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel sites to find flight and hotel bargains. http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] New guy checking in...
Dave, Welcome and good luck with the K2. I just finished a basic K2 last week and am using it with a 6BTV. In fact the antenna is not well-tuned yet, no radials (but the ground pipe is probably in water), and I am not using a tuner. Just wanted to fire up the rig for testing, and I worked about 10 DX contest QSOs. So I am sure it will work with your antenna. 73, Tom KG3V Quoting David Fleming [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Hi All.. Just introducing myself. I'll probably be around for awhile as I will soon be ordering a K2. I built dozens of Heathkits back in the day and I've built quite a few homebrew audio amps and guitar amps (mostly vintage Fender and Marshall circuits). I have a fondness for tube gear and I'm currently using vintage Heath ham gear (SB-301 rx, SB-401 tx and SB-201 amp). The only modern rigs I've ever owned are the Yaesu FT-100, FT-897 and FT-900. I wasn't overly impressed with any of them, and I always seem to drift back to vintage tube gear. I recently started reading up on QRP and I'm ready to try my hand at using low power for a change. I've never done that. After much research for the ideal QRP rig, it seems the K2 is the way to go. I figure any product that can score 4.9/5.0 on eHam with 118 reviews must stand on merit rather than hype. Plus, after following this reflector for a few weeks, I can see that a very valuable user knowledge base exists. It's a no-brainer. I'm really looking forward to building this rig and hearing that remarkable receiver that everyone seems to be talking about. It sure will be nice to work QSK CW without hearing those relays chatter. I trust it will work well with my Hustler 6BTV vertical. I've made an agreement with the XYL that I will not put any new money into my toys, so I must recycle. I have a Neumann studio mic on ebay that should more than cover the cost of the K2. :- 73, David Fleming W4SMT ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] wire antennas
That is definitely getting interesting. So I want to block 160m from going through, but pass 80m and above. Does that sound do able? With the number of people that run horizontal loops you would think this would be going on more. David Wilburn [EMAIL PROTECTED] Don Wilhelm wrote: Dave, Open it at the point 180 degrees (midway around) from the feedpoint. If your existing loop is a full wavelength on 80 meters, opening it will turn the loop into a folded back 1/2 wave dipole on 160 meters - not as good as straight out, but it should work since you are feeding the line with a tuner anyway. In fact, you may be able to make it automatic by using a trap tuned to 160 meters - that will electrically open the loop on 160 and only add some inductnce on the other bands. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Not sure where you are suggesting I open it. I was considering disconnecting the feedline on one side where it connected to the balun. Is this what you mean. My apologies if it is a silly question. David Wilburn [EMAIL PROTECTED] Rick Hiller wrote: Dave, Another possibility for 160 -- Don't know to what extent/effort you want to go to get on 160, but here is an easy way, although, a bit of a compromise. Simply open the loop at one of the 80 meter voltage loops (also a current node). The 80 meter standing wave current distribution /performance will not change, but it will force the wire to be an off center fed 1/2 wavelength for 160. Although not quite resonant within the 160 meter band, if you feed it with open wire and run it thru the appropriate matching network, you should be right. -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.18.3/694 - Release Date: 2/20/2007 1:44 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] New guy checking in...
Welcome David and believe me you won't be sorry. I have only 1 HF rig in the shack and it's been the K2 for years now. I have gone thru multiple other mobile rigs for my car including the K2, but I didn't have space up front for the K2 to mount properly, I've finally settled on a TS480SAT for mobile operation as I also wanted 6 meters in the car. You are going to have a blast building the rig and even more fun running it. Ciao, Gregg W9DHI -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of David Fleming Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2007 1:32 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] New guy checking in... Hi All.. Just introducing myself. I'll probably be around for awhile as I will soon be ordering a K2. I built dozens of Heathkits back in the day and I've built quite a few homebrew audio amps and guitar amps (mostly vintage Fender and Marshall circuits). I have a fondness for tube gear and I'm currently using vintage Heath ham gear (SB-301 rx, SB-401 tx and SB-201 amp). The only modern rigs I've ever owned are the Yaesu FT-100, FT-897 and FT-900. I wasn't overly impressed with any of them, and I always seem to drift back to vintage tube gear. I recently started reading up on QRP and I'm ready to try my hand at using low power for a change. I've never done that. After much research for the ideal QRP rig, it seems the K2 is the way to go. I figure any product that can score 4.9/5.0 on eHam with 118 reviews must stand on merit rather than hype. Plus, after following this reflector for a few weeks, I can see that a very valuable user knowledge base exists. It's a no-brainer. I'm really looking forward to building this rig and hearing that remarkable receiver that everyone seems to be talking about. It sure will be nice to work QSK CW without hearing those relays chatter. I trust it will work well with my Hustler 6BTV vertical. I've made an agreement with the XYL that I will not put any new money into my toys, so I must recycle. I have a Neumann studio mic on ebay that should more than cover the cost of the K2. :- 73, David Fleming W4SMT ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KRC2
We are (at long last!) releasing the KRC2 configuration program this next week. 73, Eric WA6HHQ [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Several sources mention great capabilities with a configuration program that I can not find anywhere. Does this program exist? Can the KCR2 act on frequency data from the K2 or a control computer? Bob KD8CGH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Rf in the shack distorting audio - the results
Hello All, Several weeks ago, I posted the attached e-mail describing my problems with RF in the shack distorting the audio when transmitting. I received many responses with good suggestions about how the cure the problem -- thank you to all of you who responded, and especially thank you to Don, the Friendly, Patient Radioman, with whom I subsequently had an e-mail dialog about the design of by balun and the materials used. The results: problem cured! The first thing I did was move the counterpoises from the ground on the KAT100 to the ground side of the coax where it connects to the balun. That had the most effect, significantly reducing the level of RF in the shack, as measured by my field strength meter, and mostly eliminated the RF getting into the computer speakers. The next thing was to use the 4:1 taps on my voltage balun instead of the 9:1 taps - that reduced the RF level a little more, at the expense of the KAT100 not being able to get down to a 1:1 SWR on 15m; the lowest SWR achieved was about 2:1 (I was using the 9:1 taps because the KAT100 could get down to essentially 1:1 on all bands). Next, AA1SB gave me a few toroid cores of unknown type that were just large enough to fit over a PN-259 connector- I slipped them over the coax where it connects to the balun. That made a slight difference in the RF level on 10m, but had no other affect on any other bands. The final step was to replace my 9:1/4:1 voltage balun, made using a T300A-1 core, with a 4:1/1:1 current balun made using a pair of FT-240-43 baluns. Don, W3FPR, had suggested that the FT material in a current balun would be much more effective at eliminating the RF problem. I finally got this current balun made and installed this weekend, and just as Don predicted, the RF in the shack is essentially completely eliminated. Also, the KAT100 now can achieve a 1:1 SWR on 15m. However, you don't get something for nothing - with this balun, I lost the upper 40 kHz of 160m... The KAT100 doesn't get the SWR down below 9:1 and just gives up. But, below that, there is about a 10kHz range over which the minimum SWR that the KAT100 can achieve goes from 1:1 to 9:1. This is not quite surprising since my antenna is a 100' shortened multi-band dipole which by design has a very narrow bandwidth on 160M. Furthermore, the inductance of the 4:1 current balun made with the FT material is about 50 times greater than the 9:1 voltage balun I made. On 160m the balun impedance was likely less that the impedance at the balun end or the ladder line (the rule of thumb is that the balun impedance should be at least 4 times the impedance at the balun input)... So, it's likely that the KAT100 was really tuning to the balun impedance and not the antenna impedance. However, with the new 4:1 current balun, the balun impedance shouldn't be much of a factor and the KAT100 is probably seeing more of the actual characteristics of the antenna... And, now that I think of it, all of the few QSOs that I've had on 160m have been below the upper 50kHz or so. So, thank you all again - I'm very satisfied with the results. Bob W1SRB -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Solosko, Robert B (Bob) Sent: Monday, January 22, 2007 12:57 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Rf in the shack distorting audio Hello All, Several month ago, after I finished my KPA100, I found that when transmitting SSB on the higher bands (20, 17 15), the computer speakers across the room, when turned on, would screech - adjusting the speaker volume had no effect (but turning off the speakers quieted them). During a QSO a few weeks ago, it was commented that it sounded like I was getting RF into my audio. To make a short story long, I don't have a very good ground system, so there's a high level of RF in the shack - the shack is on the 2nd floor, about 18 ft above the ground rod. My primary antenna is a 100 ft multiband horizontal dipole feed with ladder line into a 9:1 balun, which is connected to my KAT100 via 6' of RG8. While the antenna works great on all bands (the KAT100 has no trouble tuning it), there's a fairly high SWR on the feedline on the higher bands. I have two different length wires connected the ground rod to the KAT100, and adding counterpoises for 20, 17 15 meters hasn't change the high level of RF in the shack on these bands. A week or two ago, I put up a second antenna, a vertical parallel dipole for 20, 17 15 meters, fed with RG8 - this antenna has very low SWR on these bands. When using this antenna, I have no problems with the computer speakers screeching, so there's apparently not much RF in the shack. This weekend, during the NA QSO party, when using the ladder line fed dipole on the higher bands, several times, I was told that my audio was distorted, and switching to the vertical coax fed dipole immediately cured the
Re: [Elecraft] k1 - frequency range.
when i built my k1, i set it up for the 150khz range.. looking back at my manual, it says that it is strongly advised to use the 80khz range.. is it strongly enough advised for me to mod my machine and put it back to the 80khz range? No, that's really bad advice unless you live in an ITU region that makes the extra coverage superfluous. Contrary to popular assertion, the K1 does NOT tune too fast with the 170 kHz span option. The kHz/turn coverage is pretty linear since R19 was added across the VFO pot six years ago, and the resulting 17 kHz/turn rate is *not* at all a rapid rate of tuning. I believe that the adverse performance that some experience with the broader VFO span comes simply from the fact that the K1 VFO potentiometer shaft has almost NO resistance to rotational motion. That makes it very easy to impart unwanted rotational motion (and hence frequency change) to the VFO knob when releasing it. This unwanted frequency change is more noticable for the wide VFO span. I too found that to be a problem, but one that was extremely easy to fix with a couple of thin layers of hand-cut felt rings around the VFO pot shaft, between the front panel and the back of the VFO knob. Now I've got just the right amount of rotational resistance. I like the 170 kHz span because it allows coverage of every bit of the 40m CW band (reduced now though it is), plus it allows coverage of 10 MHz WWV on the 30m band. And who knows, but when 15m comes back hot again, the extra coverage there will be useful. A small plus, since the K1 receiver is LSB on all bands, is that one can listen to 40m LSB in the bottom 40 kHz of the phone band, or even try a cross-mode contact, if one can find anyone on the phone band that knows Morse. Remember that if you change to the smaller VFO span, you'll have to change the filter board hetrodyne crystal for 30m. Mike / KK5F ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Wire Antennas
Dave (and Don), Not a silly question, Dave, what so ever. My suggestion was to open it up 90 degrees from the present feed-point, 1/4 way around...this being a voltage maximum (loop) and current minimum (node). This enables the loop to still act like a loop on 80, if you desire to maintain it's present performance. And then on 160 it acts like, as Don states, a folded back 1/2 wave dipole on 160 meters but in this case it will be off center fed. Auto 80/160 band switching, once you get the lengths correct for the two bands, if that is possible in this case, as I do not know what modes you operate. If you open it at, as Don suggests, 180 degrees or half way round, the 80 meter loop turns into a bent 80 meter 2 Half-waves in Phase with a very high Z feed, if you maintain the feed point as is. This also shifts the standing wave current distribution by 90 degrees, which might cause you problems if your original antenna was set up to favor a particular area of the world. Not convinced that is the case though, as it does sound like you have up 270 feet of wire in a triangular loop, cause that's where the trees be. Wish I had those trees -- hi. 60 feet above ground is low for a horizontal 160 meter sky hook, but you do what'cha gotta do. Sounds like a fun modeling and empirical experiment to say the least. Regards -- Rick -- W5RH - Dave, Open it at the point 180 degrees (midway around) from the feedpoint. If your existing loop is a full wavelength on 80 meters, opening it will turn the loop into a folded back 1/2 wave dipole on 160 meters - not as good as straight out, but it should work since you are feeding the line with a tuner anyway. In fact, you may be able to make it automatic by using a trap tuned to 160 meters - that will electrically open the loop on 160 and only add some inductnce on the other bands. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Not sure where you are suggesting I open it. I was considering disconnecting the feedline on one side where it connected to the balun. Is this what you mean. My apologies if it is a silly question. David Wilburn [EMAIL PROTECTED] Rick Hiller wrote: Dave, Another possibility for 160 -- Don't know to what extent/effort you want to go to get on 160, but here is an easy way, although, a bit of a compromise. Simply open the loop at one of the 80 meter voltage loops (also a current node). The 80 meter standing wave current distribution /performance will not change, but it will force the wire to be an off center fed 1/2 wavelength for 160. Although not quite resonant within the 160 meter band, if you feed it with open wire and run it thru the appropriate matching network, you should be right. -- Rick Hiller Toll Free: (866) 658-7527 Manager, CAD Sales Direct:: (713) 278-6310 SDI -- System Development, Inc. Main: (713) 266-5667 1 Richmond Ave., Suite 110 Fax: (713) 974-4911 Houston, Texas 77082[EMAIL PROTECTED] 2D Graphics Tools to View, Edit, Convert, Publish and Print If you deal with CGM, visit www.sdicgm.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] New guy checking in...(a bit OT)
Off Topic Hehe.. Well now I wish I had posted the mic for sale here instead of putting it on eBay!! :) The auction ends Thursday night and it's already bid up to $710.00 (I paid $650 for it new about a year ago - hehe - I love eBay). The mic is a Neumann TLM-103 large diaphragm condenser. I used it primarily to record acoustic guitar and for some vocals. Wayne, you can definitely do better than the SM-57 for acoustic guitar recording. The 57 is a fine mic and can be used for just about anything, but they are more suited to high sound pressure level applications, like mic-ing amps and drums. You'd probably get much better sounding acoustic recordings (and vocals) by using a large diaphragm condenser. I've found when I record my Taylor acoustic, that I get the best sound by recording 2 simultaneous tracks. One is mic'ed with the Neumann and the other is direct in from the guitar's electronics. I'll then pan those two tracks L/R and add different EQ to each one. It results in a very nice, rich acoustic sound. Here's an example. The acoustic was recorded this way. I used a v-amp for the lead guitar and bass. The drums were done in Reason. A friend of mine did the vocals. http://sight.net/music/Mystery.mp3 On Topic I'll be ordering the K2 on Friday (if the winning bidder paypals me the money..:)) -David Fleming W4SMT Original Message Hi David, Welcome to the list. Would that mic you're selling be useful for acoustic guitar and vocals? I've been recording with an SM-57 for years, and I get the feeling I could do better. As the principle designer of the K2, I could pull some strings to offer you a discount on an option for the rig in exchange for a really good price on the mic :) Have fun with the rig! 73, Wayne N6KR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] RE: Wire Antennas
Rick, The only problem with that is the high voltage point on a fullwave loop is electriclly opposite the feedpoint, not 1/4 wave away from the feedpoint. It is true that opening it at the 80 meter 1/4 wave point would create an off-center fed 160 meter dipole that has been bent back on itself, but it will change the behavior on all other bands too. I still think the 160 meter trap at the 180 degree point is the best solution - or use the loop as-is and tie both sides of the feedline together and operate against ground for 160 meters. Somewhere on his website, L B Cebik simulated a 160 meter inverted L antenna with only 4 20 foot radials and it did not fare too badly - he also simulated with one 20 foot radial and that did not do badly either, so there is hope even if an extensive radial system for 160 meters is out of the question in your case. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Dave (and Don), Not a silly question, Dave, what so ever. My suggestion was to open it up 90 degrees from the present feed-point, 1/4 way around...this being a voltage maximum (loop) and current minimum (node). This enables the loop to still act like a loop on 80, if you desire to maintain it's present performance. And then on 160 it acts like, as Don states, a folded back 1/2 wave dipole on 160 meters but in this case it will be off center fed. Auto 80/160 band switching, once you get the lengths correct for the two bands, if that is possible in this case, as I do not know what modes you operate. If you open it at, as Don suggests, 180 degrees or half way round, the 80 meter loop turns into a bent 80 meter 2 Half-waves in Phase with a very high Z feed, if you maintain the feed point as is. This also shifts the standing wave current distribution by 90 degrees, which might cause you problems if your original antenna was set up to favor a particular area of the world. Not convinced that is the case though, as it does sound like you have up 270 feet of wire in a triangular loop, cause that's where the trees be. Wish I had those trees -- hi. 60 feet above ground is low for a horizontal 160 meter sky hook, but you do what'cha gotta do. Sounds like a fun modeling and empirical experiment to say the least. Regards -- Rick -- W5RH - Dave, Open it at the point 180 degrees (midway around) from the feedpoint. If your existing loop is a full wavelength on 80 meters, opening it will turn the loop into a folded back 1/2 wave dipole on 160 meters - not as good as straight out, but it should work since you are feeding the line with a tuner anyway. In fact, you may be able to make it automatic by using a trap tuned to 160 meters - that will electrically open the loop on 160 and only add some inductnce on the other bands. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Not sure where you are suggesting I open it. I was considering disconnecting the feedline on one side where it connected to the balun. Is this what you mean. My apologies if it is a silly question. David Wilburn [EMAIL PROTECTED] Rick Hiller wrote: Dave, Another possibility for 160 -- Don't know to what extent/effort you want to go to get on 160, but here is an easy way, although, a bit of a compromise. Simply open the loop at one of the 80 meter voltage loops (also a current node). The 80 meter standing wave current distribution /performance will not change, but it will force the wire to be an off center fed 1/2 wavelength for 160. Although not quite resonant within the 160 meter band, if you feed it with open wire and run it thru the appropriate matching network, you should be right. -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.18.3/694 - Release Date: 2/20/2007 1:44 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Road Kill Round Up QRP Kontest
I don't think anyone posted this to the Elecraft reflector but I know many QRPers are here also. If you hear me, call with 1 Watt before you QRO (more points for us Kritters). I'll be using my Beverages for receive and will probably hear you. Good luck with your kills! 73 de Ant (aka Bill W4ZV) OK all you lead footed, speed demons, rev up your rigs and loosen up your fingers for the First Almost Unofficial North Carolina Road Kill Round Up. Date: Wednesday, February 21, 2007 21:30 - 23:00 Eastern Standard Time UTC Time: Date: Thursday, February 22, 2007 02:30 - 04:00 Which Rural Road Numbers: 7.025 - 7.070 (+ / - QRM) Mode: CW - QRP Classes: Kritters - The QRP stations the Speeders try to work (Kritter callsigns and names are listed at http://ncroadkillroundup.homestead.com/KritterRoster.htmlhttp://ncroadkillroundup.homestead.com/KritterRoster.html Speeders - Any station trying to work the Kritters. Speeders do not call CQ nor do they work other Speeders. Power - Kritters: 5 Watts Power - Speeders: Your choice but must be 5W or less to be eligible for a Certificate - No California Killowatts over 1,500 horsepower allowed! Kritters Will Call: CQ RK CQ RK CQ RK (Road Kill Round Up) Speeder Exchange: RST State Name Power Kritter Exchange: RST Kritter Name Speeder Scoring: Speeders running 5 watts or less that snag all the Road Kill Kritters listed on the Roster will qualify for the almost unofficial official Worked All Road Kill Round Up Kritter Certificates. The order of finish of the Speeders will be determined by the SHORTEST TIME to work ALL the Road Kill Kritters. This means you can start anytime during the 1.5 hour event and your entry time starts when you make your first Kritter Kapture and ends when you bag them all or the last one you can find lurking along side the road. Kritter Scoring: The Road Kill Kritters are trying to work as many Speed Demons as possible in Kompetition with other Kritters. Details available on the Kontest website. Submit logs by: March 24, 2007 Email logs to: n1ln[at]arrl[dot]net Mail logs to: Bruce Meier, N1LN 3233 Gait Way Chapel Hill NC 27516 USA If you qualify and want a Certificate (hard copy) - send $1.00 with a copy of your log to N1LN. If an email of a MS Powerpoint file for you to print is OK - just send your log to N1LN. He will e-mail your certificate at no cost. First, Second, and Third place Speeders receive their Speeding Tickets (Certificates) by USPO at no cost. Road Kill Round Up is sponsored by: N1LN and W0UCE Kontest Website: http://ncroadkillroundup.homestead.com/KritterRoster.htmlhttp://ncroadkillroundup.homestead.com/KritterRoster.html 73, Barry K4CZ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] New guy checking in...
Hi Tom.. That encouraging. If you're making DX contacts on the 6BTV with low power AND no radials, then that pipe must be in water or your backyard is copper plated. :) I just put mine up last week. I ran sixteen 30ft radials on top of the ground using wire staples. It works! I'm getting less than 2:1 on all of 40, 20, 15 and 10 without a tuner. Not so good on 80. I need to tune it a bit. Regards, -David Fleming W4SMT --- Tom Zeltwanger [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Dave, Welcome and good luck with the K2. I just finished a basic K2 last week and am using it with a 6BTV. In fact the antenna is not well-tuned yet, no radials (but the ground pipe is probably in water), and I am not using a tuner. Just wanted to fire up the rig for testing, and I worked about 10 DX contest QSOs. So I am sure it will work with your antenna. 73, Tom KG3V ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] WTB WTT KX1 or add-ons, built, unbuilt, etc.
Hi y'all, if you have a KX1 base model or any of the accessories in any condition, please drop me a line. tnx es 73, Casey, NA7U ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Recording mic (OT ...New guy checking in...(a bit OT))
Wayne - (OT, but I post this as a service to the king ) I've tried the SM-57 for recording gtr and vocals. Not great, but I'm not prepared to spend money on a mic. I ended up with an Audio Technica ATM-31a for about $130. It is a condenser mic that I use for live vocals as well as for recording. Sound is pretty good, far better than SM-57 or SM-58. There are other choices but I believe just about any condenser will sound better on acoustic guitar than a dynamic. 73! - Keith N1AS - - K2 5411.ssb.100 - -Original Message- From: David Fleming Would that mic you're selling be useful for acoustic guitar and vocals? I've been recording with an SM-57 for years, and I get the feeling I could do better. 73, Wayne N6KR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Recording mic (OT ...New guy checking in...(a bit OT))
Now this is a nice OT posting... If you're looking into a nice set of mics for recording, don't forget to check out the Neumann KM184s. They're not too large and sound awesome. I've got a matched pair that I use regularly on live gigs and recordings and they take just about anything you throw at them (except for liquids, of course). Oh, and Wayne, if you're looking for a nice vocal mike, check out the Neumann KSM105. All these mikes are modestly priced (for Neumann's standards anyway) and are well worth the investment. That having been said, I agree that a couple of SM57's or SM58's are a fb choice for all-round use. Ditto for Sennheiser 604's (try those on drums and/or percussion) 73 Glenn ON4WIX getting ready for the UBA CW contest this weekend with my K2/100 s/n 5361 - Original Message - From: Darwin, Keith [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2007 9:12 PM Subject: [Elecraft] Recording mic (OT ...New guy checking in...(a bit OT)) Wayne - (OT, but I post this as a service to the king ) I've tried the SM-57 for recording gtr and vocals. Not great, but I'm not prepared to spend money on a mic. I ended up with an Audio Technica ATM-31a for about $130. It is a condenser mic that I use for live vocals as well as for recording. Sound is pretty good, far better than SM-57 or SM-58. There are other choices but I believe just about any condenser will sound better on acoustic guitar than a dynamic. 73! - Keith N1AS - - K2 5411.ssb.100 - -Original Message- From: David Fleming Would that mic you're selling be useful for acoustic guitar and vocals? I've been recording with an SM-57 for years, and I get the feeling I could do better. 73, Wayne N6KR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.18.3/696 - Release Date: 21/02/2007 15:19 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Hear it Noise Eliminating Module
Has anyone on the list used the Gap Antenna Products Hear it Noise Eliminating Module on their K2? There was an interesting article on the product in March QST on page 51. The reviewer used the product on a Yaesu Mark V and seemed very satisfied with the results. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: wire antennas
Jim and the group, At every field day, our club W5KA uses 80 M Inverted Double Extended Zepp element wire doublets. We have had up to 250 feet of two types of window line, and with the large Dentron tuner, we have a low loss match, and it works every signal we hear. That is on multiple bands where we use the above antenna between 80 and 15 meters. (10 having been dead for last several field days down here). No problems matching with the popular nominal 300 and 450 ladder lines of poly insulation. A number of Cebik's models are done without assumption of big ceramic insulators, or home made 600 ohm line. If a particular lenght of feeder presents a matching problem on a given band you add or subtract a few feet of line. Keeping 5 and 10 foot adder sections is not hard and wire nuts make a quick splice of the added section into the feeder to move the optimum impedance position to suit the tuner. I have matched such antennas as 5/8 leg Zepps on 20m with the smaller BW tuner, also without a problem with random feed line length. Such antennas have less weight and wind load than Windom, (OCF) types that require a balun at the feed point. Stuart K5KVH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] wire antennas
How low did you have your horizontal loop? We always use a 2 wave or so one for field day, (80m), but mostly use it on 40m and up to 15m. It is always only 20 feet high, as that is the limit of reach of our portable ladder. We get great signal reports, and work all over the country from the Central Southwest. I have seen an 80m loop work less well than a dipole when low to a roof containing a metal edging, which we put off to detuning and coupling issues. We feed our loops with parallel lines, either 300 ohm window or 450 ohm window line. Stuart K5KVH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Re: wire antennas
Regarding open wire line, I generally use something in the vicinity of 450 ohms. That is an easy size to buy or fabricate and produces a fairly low SWR when used to feed most doublets. While open wire lines are low-loss, they are not lossless. SWR does matter, just no where near as much as when using coaxial cable. Typically, the voltage loop (highest impedance) point of a wire antenna won't exceed 3,000 or 4,000 ohms impedance, so the SWR on the line won't reach 10:1 even when fed at a voltage loop (such as when the doublet is a full wavelength long). At the frequency at which it is 1/2 wave long, the feedpoint impedance is about 50 ohms which produces an SWR of less than 10:1 again. Everywhere in between will produce impedances somewhere inside that range. That's what keeps the losses on open wire low. The greatest losses in well-made open wire lines are ohmic: the RF resistance of the wire. RF resistance is directly proportional to the diameter of the wire, since RF currents flow only on the outer surface of the conductor. So I like to use a much larger conductor than most commercially-made wires. That is a significant help when I load up the antenna at a frequency below which it is 1/2 wave long. For example, using my 66 foot doublet on 80 meters. It's an efficient antenna when used that way provided feeder losses are kept low. But when loaded on a band where the wire is only 1/4 wave long (e.g. a 66 foot wire used on 80 meters) the impedance is rather low so the SWR on 450 ohm line might be 20:1 or greater. That's one reason I shun ladder line or twin lead with small conductors. Using open wire line to feed other low-impedance antennas, such as small loops presents the same issues of high SWR and increasing losses. As I mentioned before I make my own open-wire for most work using #14 (or larger) copper wire and well-spaced low-loss insulators. Actually, the common dog bone end insulators work well providing a spacing of about 2.5 inches. Hold 'em in place with a small ty-wrap threaded through the same hole and snugged down tight to provide a tight friction-grip with the wire (most ty-wraps do disintegrate in three or four years from UV but I make a point to check my installation at least that often). Another way to hold the wire is to loop a short length around the end of the insulator and wrap it tightly around the feeder directly above and below the insulator. Those will last indefinitely. One insulator every three or four feet is plenty. It is not necessary for them to hold the wires exactly equidistant: only to keep them from touching. I don't try to run my open wire at a low SWR, so the actual impedance or impedance bumps along the line aren't important. Open wire line made that way using white insulated house wire and white dog-bone insulators is actually harder to see from several feet away than the typical brown window line or twin lead. There are lightweight plastic dog bone end insulators as well. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] wire antennas
Mike and the group, I am currently routing heavy duty 300 ohm twin lead from a 5/8 leg 20m antenna, thru a slot cut into some foam pipe insulation that acts as a panel in the bottom of a aluminum sash window. The window has aluminum sill, and frame, and individual panes of glass with aluminum sub frames. Cross the metal at right angle does not affect the normal operation of my BW tuner, and I am using the internal balun of this tuner and getting normal loading, and good signal reports with only 20 watts SSB, from the rig I use. If you cross at right angles and twist the feeder outside along its run, interaction with conductors is minimized and balance is preserved adequately for use with the tuner. Stuart K5KVH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] wire antennas
After contemplating it a bit, I would say that it is 75 to 80 feet up. I had a similar one at my previous house up about 90 feet. It worked great. I broke more than one pileup while barefoot. I'm hoping this one works better after I get some 450 ohm ladder line on it. The both have tuned very well on the major bands, and with a bit of a struggle on some like 30m. The automatic antenna tuners in the my rigs has always worked pretty well tuning them up. David Wilburn [EMAIL PROTECTED] Stuart Rohre wrote: How low did you have your horizontal loop? We always use a 2 wave or so one for field day, (80m), but mostly use it on 40m and up to 15m. It is always only 20 feet high, as that is the limit of reach of our portable ladder. We get great signal reports, and work all over the country from the Central Southwest. I have seen an 80m loop work less well than a dipole when low to a roof containing a metal edging, which we put off to detuning and coupling issues. We feed our loops with parallel lines, either 300 ohm window or 450 ohm window line. Stuart K5KVH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: wire antennas
In a message dated 2/21/07 4:59:24 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: our club W5KA uses 80 M Inverted Double Extended Zepp element wire doublets. If my math is right, that works out to about 330-340 feet of wire, center-fed! We have had up to 250 feet of two types of window line, and with the large Dentron tuner, we have a low loss match, and it works every signal we hear. That is on multiple bands where we use the above antenna between 80 and 15 meters. (10 having been dead for last several field days down here). Good job! No problems matching with the popular nominal 300 and 450 ladder lines of poly insulation. A number of Cebik's models are done without assumption of big ceramic insulators, or home made 600 ohm line. If a particular lenght of feeder presents a matching problem on a given band you add or subtract a few feet of line. Keeping 5 and 10 foot adder sections is not hard and wire nuts make a quick splice of the added section into the feeder to move the optimum impedance position to suit the tuner. I have matched such antennas as 5/8 leg Zepps on 20m with the smaller BW tuner, also without a problem with random feed line length. One key point to remember is that the feedpoint Z of those antennas is neither very high nor very low on any band. Nor is it likely to be highly reactive. The end result is that the ladder line is probably operating at an SWR of less than 10:1, and maybe even less than 5:1. Which is a good recipe for low loss. See Ron's (AC7AC) commentary on the situation where the feedpoint Z is very high or low. Such antennas have less weight and wind load than Windom, (OCF) types that require a balun at the feed point. True - but one could also use open line, and a balun near the ground. All depends on the situation. In a domestic contest like Field Day, a lot depends on things like where you are. Hams in the middle of the country face different antenna challenges than those on the coasts and the corners. For example, somebody in NE or KS is within 1500 miles or so of every ham in CONUS. Someone in WWA, SDG, SFL or ME may be twice that distance from a sizable number of CONUS hams. OTOH, a stations in the corners don't have to deal with the fact that the rest of CONUS is all around them. 73 de Jim, N2EY ** AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at http://www.aol.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Evaluating antennas
Given all the discussion about the various antennas I do wire antenna seminars at conventions and hamfests, and usually in some way tell my audience the following: NO antenna is ever high enough! (:-) Many years ago ... 50+ ... I put up (too) many antennas in the quest for the perfect radiator, and I offer the following observation. No antenna should be written off without a long period of evaluation ... perhaps several weeks or more. At the time I was in hot pursuit of something better and would change an antenna too often ... even from one day to the next. I eventually learned that there are many factors that can influence how well antenna will work for you. I didn't understand about the fickle ways of the propogation gods, sunspots, the antenna's surroundings, etc. and that these factors will deternine how your new antenna will work to a greater degree than what kind of antenna it is. I have four 100' towers and some of today's best antennas fed with hardline, but if I had to choose only one it would be the 80M half-wave at 65' that's fed with home-made open wire and a Johnson Matchbox. 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP [EMAIL PROTECTED] or [EMAIL PROTECTED] Ken Kopp - K0PP [EMAIL PROTECTED] or [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
re:[Elecraft] Hear it Noise Eliminating Module
I doubt that it would be as effective as the noise reduction feature of the KDSP2 module. 73, Chuck NI0C ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] re: Evaluating antennas
I absolutely and completely agree with Ken, despite having only half of his experience. (30 years, and only two towers - 100' 125' with six rotatable beams). The old fashioned open wire dipole - doublet to our UK brethren - when fed with a proper balanced tuner - is extremely efficient and effective. Read what Maxwell has to say about them in his book Reflections, or look at results with an antenna modelling program. The 80m dipole at 65', when used on the higher bands, will have gain equal to a 3 element yagi in its favored directions. 73, Mike Cizek W3MC [EMAIL PROTECTED] FOC # 1739 HSC # 1849 - Original Message - From: Ken Kopp To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Wednesday, 21 February, 2007 19:48 Subject: [Elecraft] Evaluating antennas Given all the discussion about the various antennas I do wire antenna seminars at conventions and hamfests, and usually in some way tell my audience the following: NO antenna is ever high enough! (:-) Many years ago ... 50+ ... I put up (too) many antennas in the quest for the perfect radiator, and I offer the following observation. No antenna should be written off without a long period of evaluation ... perhaps several weeks or more. At the time I was in hot pursuit of something better and would change an antenna too often ... even from one day to the next. I eventually learned that there are many factors that can influence how well antenna will work for you. I didn't understand about the fickle ways of the propogation gods, sunspots, the antenna's surroundings, etc. and that these factors will deternine how your new antenna will work to a greater degree than what kind of antenna it is. I have four 100' towers and some of today's best antennas fed with hardline, but if I had to choose only one it would be the 80M half-wave at 65' that's fed with home-made open wire and a Johnson Matchbox. 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP [EMAIL PROTECTED] or [EMAIL PROTECTED] Ken Kopp - K0PP [EMAIL PROTECTED] or [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com Mike Cizek W3MC [EMAIL PROTECTED] FOC # 1739 HSC # 1849 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Updated Companion Guide / Rework-Free K2 Assembly Instructions
If you've not yet annotated your K2 manual for rework-free assembly, then you will definitely want to download our very lasted (version 6 revision P) Companion Guide, which went live within the hour. We have reduced the fading to the point that it should be possible to use the Companion Guide pages instead of the corresponding K2 manual pages, thus avoiding the need to annotate your K2 manual. :) As always, we welcome your comments and suggestions. 73, Gary KI4GGX http://www.unpcbs.com/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K1 to Italy?
Slightly off topic - my wife and I are planning a two week trip to northern Italy this summer and I'd like to chat with any of our Italian subscribers to our list for some advice about operating with my K1 while there (or from any Elecrafters who have done so). Please reply off list to [EMAIL PROTECTED] - thanks 73, Bill, k1ev ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Hear it Noise Eliminating Module
Yes I have the Gap in-line unit. It works well for noise reduction. There are however no DSP selectable filters other than the noise reduction. The DSP option for the K2 does an admirable job of noise reduction with the user selected and user adjustable DSP filters. The Gap In-Line DSP noise reduction filter will make a difference for most rigs and has up to 35DB of noise reduction. It's a fine product if noise reduction is all you're after. Robert VE3RPF Ronald Ziegler wrote: Has anyone on the list used the Gap Antenna Products Hear it Noise Eliminating Module on their K2? There was an interesting article on the product in March QST on page 51. The reviewer used the product on a Yaesu Mark V and seemed very satisfied with the results. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KPA100
If I add the KPA100 to my K2 and decide I want to operate qrp, is there a way to bypass the kpa100, or do you just turn down the power knob? It will be a long time before I fully understand the K2. Thanks Scott N5SM K2 #5846 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K1 to Italy?
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Slightly off topic - my wife and I are planning a two week trip to northern Italy this summer and I'd like to chat with any of our Italian subscribers to our list for some advice about operating with my K1 while there (or from any Elecrafters who have done so). Please reply off list to [EMAIL PROTECTED] - thanks 73, Bill, k1ev ___ i wouldn't mind at all if this was discussed on the list.. 72 de kb8qpt -- ___ peace, sergio photographer, journalist, visionary www.village-buzz.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KPA100
Just power the unit from the lower coaxial power jack and you have a QRP rig. If you turn the power down you'll get the same thing but you'll have higher current draw due to the idling current and circuits in the amp. Gregg W9DHI -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2007 9:28 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] KPA100 If I add the KPA100 to my K2 and decide I want to operate qrp, is there a way to bypass the kpa100, or do you just turn down the power knob? It will be a long time before I fully understand the K2. Thanks Scott N5SM K2 #5846 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KPA100
You can QRP two ways: 1) Turn the power down (the obvious). The POWER control runs from zero to 100+ watts. The KPA100 is switched out of the transmit path below 10 watts. 2) You can switch the KPA100 amplifier off using the MENU command. Now the rig behaves exactly like it did without the KPA100 except that you have the advantage of the SWR bridge and SWR display on the K2 and, of course, the SO239 connector on the KPA100 remains the normal antenna connector. With the KPA100 off the total K2 current drain is 8 to 10% higher due to the circuits in the KPA100 that run even in standby. That's normally of no concern unless you're running from a limited battery supply. People operating portable in the field may simply swap the covers, removing the KPA100 and putting the QRP top back on with its built in antenna tuner and battery supply. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- If I add the KPA100 to my K2 and decide I want to operate qrp, is there a way to bypass the kpa100, or do you just turn down the power knob? It will be a long time before I fully understand the K2. Thanks Scott N5SM K2 #5846 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KRC2
Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote: We are (at long last!) releasing the KRC2 configuration program this next week. 73, Eric WA6HHQ [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Several sources mention great capabilities with a configuration program that I can not find anywhere. Does this program exist? Can the KCR2 act on frequency data from the K2 or a control computer? Bob KD8CGH Thanks Eric. I'll look for it. Bob ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
