Re: [Elecraft] P3 and aurora

2011-08-06 Thread Sverre Holm (LA3ZA)
Thanks Tom

The P3 utility's ability to copy the display of the P3 and make it into a
BMP-file is really nice for getting images like these, especially if the
interface is run at a high rate like 38400 bps.

Tommy Alderman wrote:
 
 Very good images Sverre, thanks for putting them up! 
 


-
Sverre, LA3ZA

K2 #2198, K3 #3391
LA3ZA Unofficial Guide to K2 modifications 
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Re: [Elecraft] Tom Hammond, N0SS, silent key

2011-08-06 Thread Julius Fazekas n2wn
Tom was one of the first folks I met on the Elecraft reflector and helped
me a lot with my K2. We corresponded on and off through the years. 

We worked in contests and even met at a TenTec Hamfest way back when. He was
always friendly and upbeat. 

I knew of his health issues, but I didn't realize he had taken a serious
turn for the worse. I think Wayne's eulogy expresses how I will remember
him.

Hopefully we can all be more like him...

73,
Julius
n2wn

-
Julius Fazekas
N2WN

Tennessee Contest Group
http://www.k4ro.net/tcg/index.html

Tennessee QSO Party
http://www.tnqp.org/

Elecraft K2#4455
Elecraft K3/100 #366
Elecraft K3/100 
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[Elecraft] Tom N0SS

2011-08-06 Thread David Robertson
Everyone,

Looking back at Dayton in 2010 I met Tom personally at the Elecraft booth. I 
shook hands with him but got so busy assisting customers at the booth I didn't 
have a chance to talk with him. In building my K2 his publications on his web 
sits were extremely helpful. I know he has contributed directly to the success 
of Elecraft, especially the K2 and K3 rigs. I wish I had taken the time to talk 
to him. I would have learned allot.

Tom 73 and rest peacefully.
Dave KD1NA
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[Elecraft] FW: N0SS

2011-08-06 Thread Gary Ferdinand
I guess my worse fears about Tom were true.  Rest in peace, my friend.
We've lost a fine person.

73 Tom,

Gary W2CS



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-
boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of W0UCE
Sent: Friday, August 05, 2011 10:42 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] N0SS

I only had the pleasure of meeting Tom in person once which cemented a
friendship developed through many QSOs and Contest Exchanges.
Tom, always the gentleman.

Jack W0UCE


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Re: [Elecraft] Just joined this list - 5B4AZ

2011-08-06 Thread Mike
On 8/5/2011 10:33 PM, Nate Bargmann wrote:.
 If programming tickles your fancy in any way, Perl is a good place to
 start.  It's very forgiving of various logic methods and it has a large
 community around it.  It has been famously referred to as the duct tape
 that holds the Internet together although in recent years other
 languages and methods have gained popularity.
Programming earned me a good living for a lot of years. My web needs have 
always been 
met with vbscript and javascript. I'd hate to risk cracking the old brain with 
a new 
(to me) language. ;-)

73, Mike NF4L

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[Elecraft] Front panel standoff question

2011-08-06 Thread David Dietrich
Hi Everybody!

I am finishing the assembly of my K2's front panel, and I installed the two 
standoffs adjacent to the mic connector.  Since they are on top of the board, I 
notice that they are not going to be attached to anything. Are they just 
spacers for the front panel PC board and chassis piece so the board is not 
flexed too much when a mic is removed?

Thanks,

David
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Re: [Elecraft] [P3] P3 and K144XV

2011-08-06 Thread Stan Gibbs
Tom,

Sounds like your Ref Lvl is set too high.  The color of the waterfall
reflects the vertical position of the trace in the frequency display.  If
you reduce the reference level, the frequency display will return to a
viewable position, and the orange waterfall will revert to blue.

The reference level is per-band so you have to adjust it for each band you
operate on.  For my 2m setup the ref level is set at -145 dBm, which allows
me to see the frequency trace when the pre-amp is on or off.



-
73, Stan - KR7C
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[Elecraft] K3 sub receiver - kit vs assembled

2011-08-06 Thread Al Dynarski
I am getting ready to order the sub receiver for my K3 and have been reviewing 
the on-line manuals.  I am still puzzled as to the
difference between the kit and assembled versions.  I haven't found a manual 
that shows any actual 'assembly' of the sub receiver
just the installation of the unit into the K3.  Can someone please enlighten me 
as to what I am missing?  Thanks!

 

Al   W7SYK

Bar Nunn, WY

 

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[Elecraft] KAT100 and KPA100 into EC case.

2011-08-06 Thread Mike Weir

I have a built K2 with the KPA100 installed in it, I now want to remove it and 
place it into the EC enclosure along with my un-built  KAT-100.
My questions are
1. What do I need to purchase to do this from Elecraft?
2. At a later date can I install the KAT2 tuner or does it have to be done now. 
 I want to use the K2 for portable op's but that won't be until a later date. 
Thanks all for your time
VE3WDM
http://ve3wdm.blogspot.com
  
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 sub receiver - kit vs assembled

2011-08-06 Thread Mike Fatchett W0MU
If you were having Elecraft build your K3 or if you are sending your K3 
back then the assembly price needs to be included.  If you already have 
your K3 then order it without assembly.

The receiver is fully assembled.  You just need to install it.  It is no 
different than any other K3 module.

On 8/6/2011 9:25 AM, Al Dynarski wrote:
 I am getting ready to order the sub receiver for my K3 and have been 
 reviewing the on-line manuals.  I am still puzzled as to the
 difference between the kit and assembled versions.  I haven't found a manual 
 that shows any actual 'assembly' of the sub receiver
 just the installation of the unit into the K3.  Can someone please enlighten 
 me as to what I am missing?  Thanks!



 Al   W7SYK

 Bar Nunn, WY



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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 and KPA100 into EC case.

2011-08-06 Thread R. Kevin Stover
-BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-
Hash: SHA1

Mike,

You need an EC2 enclosure and the KAT100PNL front and back panel kit
which converts the KAT100-1 to a -2.

Since you have the KPA100 you have the KIO2 built in.

On 8/6/2011 11:05 AM, Mike Weir wrote:
 
 I have a built K2 with the KPA100 installed in it, I now want to remove it 
 and place it into the EC enclosure along with my un-built  KAT-100.
 My questions are
 1. What do I need to purchase to do this from Elecraft?
 2. At a later date can I install the KAT2 tuner or does it have to be done 
 now.  I want to use the K2 for portable op's but that won't be until a later 
 date. 
 Thanks all for your time
 VE3WDM
 http://ve3wdm.blogspot.com

 

- -- 
R. Kevin Stover

ACØH
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 sub receiver - kit vs assembled

2011-08-06 Thread Bill W4ZV

Al Dynarski wrote:
 
 I am getting ready to order the sub receiver for my K3 and have been
 reviewing the on-line manuals.  I am still puzzled as to the
 difference between the kit and assembled versions.  I haven't found a
 manual that shows any actual 'assembly' of the sub receiver
 just the installation of the unit into the K3.  Can someone please
 enlighten me as to what I am missing?  
 

Maybe you didn't read far enough in the manual.  The following includes
assembly, operation and installation:

http://www.elecraft.com/manual/KRX3_Subreceiver_Install-Operate_Manual_Rev_E.pdf

The installation looks a little intimidating but it's really not so
bad...just pay careful attention to the cable routing diagrams and photos.

73,  Bill


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 sub receiver - kit vs assembled

2011-08-06 Thread Bill W4ZV

Mike Fatchett wrote:
 
 The receiver is fully assembled.  You just need to install it.  It is no 
 different than any other K3 module.
 

This is not correct.  You get 5 different boards, the main board needs to be
mounted in the shielded enclosure, filters need to be mounted on the main
board and the other boards need to be installed, cables installed, etc. 
Refer to the manual link I just posted.

73,  Bill


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 sub receiver - kit vs assembled

2011-08-06 Thread Guy Olinger K2AV
I could be wrong, but assembled I think means that you send your K3
back to Elecraft and they install it for you.  There was no assembly
OF the K3 per se, other than putting it's parts in the K3.

You can see the assembly steps easily enough in the downloadable docs
from the website.

73, Guy.

On Sat, Aug 6, 2011 at 11:25 AM, Al Dynarski adynar...@casperkoa.com wrote:
 I am getting ready to order the sub receiver for my K3 and have been 
 reviewing the on-line manuals.  I am still puzzled as to the
 difference between the kit and assembled versions.  I haven't found a manual 
 that shows any actual 'assembly' of the sub receiver
 just the installation of the unit into the K3.  Can someone please enlighten 
 me as to what I am missing?  Thanks!



 Al   W7SYK

 Bar Nunn, WY



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[Elecraft] RIBBON MICROPHONE

2011-08-06 Thread Ed Stallman
Hello , I'm  A  new K3 user and I would like to be sure this 
Microphone will work with the K3 before placing my order ... Please 
have a look here

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/pro-audio/mxl-r144-ribbon-microphone

I have friends using this Mic on other radio's without audio gear and 
they all sound very natural , Also will I be able to use the rear Mic 
Jack ? I'm hoping I can to help keep clutter from up front .

Thanks Ed

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Re: [Elecraft] RIBBON MICROPHONE

2011-08-06 Thread Paul Christensen
You can use a ribbon mic with the K3, but be aware that the pattern is 
bi-directional, and this model doesn't appear to allow the user to alter the 
pattern, unlike say...a poly-directional RCA 77Dx.  Side rejection will be 
good but the amplitude response from rear-arriving sound will be the same as 
forward arriving.  I wouldn't use this mic for that reason alone.

You can connect the mic to the K3's rear-panel mic connector, using the same 
methods of interconnect for other balanced-output mics into the unbalanced 
input of the K3.  Ensure that the K3's mic bias is deactivated.  It should 
EQ nicely with the K3's internal equalizer.

Paul, W9AC



- Original Message - 
From: Ed Stallman n...@airmail.net
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, August 06, 2011 12:47 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] RIBBON MICROPHONE


 Hello , I'm  A  new K3 user and I would like to be sure this
 Microphone will work with the K3 before placing my order ... Please
 have a look here

 http://www.musiciansfriend.com/pro-audio/mxl-r144-ribbon-microphone

 I have friends using this Mic on other radio's without audio gear and
 they all sound very natural , Also will I be able to use the rear Mic
 Jack ? I'm hoping I can to help keep clutter from up front .

 Thanks Ed

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Re: [Elecraft] RIBBON MICROPHONE

2011-08-06 Thread Bruce McLaughlin
As the previous response indicated, there is no fundamental reason why you
cannot use this microphone with the K3. However, as also indicated there are
some drawbacks. As already mentioned, it appears this particular model does
not have directional controls and so it will be bidirectional and sensitive
to noise from the rear. And you should be aware that ribbon microphones are
very sensitive to shock and vibration and can be easily damaged. They are
also very sensitive to wind blasts, which if sufficient, can break the
ribbon. And finally, they usually exhibit very strong proximity effects. You
should be careful not to work too closely to this microphone or the bass
response will be considerably enhanced which is not particularly helpful for
SSB communication. I would work no closer than a foot from the microphone to
avoid not only accentuating the base but also to prevent plosives or, as
sometimes called, P pops which result from words having a P at the
beginning and sometimes other letters such as B. In other words, a ribbon
microphone should sound very nice if appropriate precautions are taken in
its use.

Bruce

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ed Stallman
Sent: Saturday, August 06, 2011 12:47 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] RIBBON MICROPHONE

Hello , I'm  A  new K3 user and I would like to be sure this Microphone will
work with the K3 before placing my order ... Please have a look here

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/pro-audio/mxl-r144-ribbon-microphone

I have friends using this Mic on other radio's without audio gear and they
all sound very natural , Also will I be able to use the rear Mic Jack ? I'm
hoping I can to help keep clutter from up front .

Thanks Ed

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Re: [Elecraft] Front panel standoff question

2011-08-06 Thread Don Wilhelm
David,

Yes, you guessed correctly.  They are to keep the board in place when 
the microphone plug is removed.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/6/2011 10:32 AM, David Dietrich wrote:
 Hi Everybody!

 I am finishing the assembly of my K2's front panel, and I installed the two 
 standoffs adjacent to the mic connector.  Since they are on top of the board, 
 I notice that they are not going to be attached to anything. Are they just 
 spacers for the front panel PC board and chassis piece so the board is not 
 flexed too much when a mic is removed?

 Thanks,

 David
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[Elecraft] K2 with SSB/NB/60m/160m for sale

2011-08-06 Thread Chip Stratton
I've posted this for sale on QRV for $750 shipped within the USA if anyone
is interested.
Check it out here:
http://forums.qrz.com/showthread.php?307664-Elecraft-K2-with-SSB-NB-60m

73
Chip
AE5KA
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 and KPA100 into EC case.

2011-08-06 Thread Don Wilhelm
Mike, the comment about already having the KIO2 below is not correct.  
You currently have the KIO2 functionality in the KPA100, but you will 
lose that function from the KPA100 when it is mounted remotely.

You will need the KIO2 or a suitable substitute in the base K2 top cover 
- the substitute will not give you computer connectivity, but will allow 
you to connect to the KPA100/KAT100.

I strongly recommend you order the KAT100-1 to KAT100-2 conversion kit.  
It has the headers for the KPA100 connections as well as the full height 
front and rear panels for the KAT100.  You will also need to order the 
EC2 enclosure.

You already have the parts to assemble the connecting cable - build it 
just like the cable shown in the KAT100 manual.

On 8/6/2011 12:33 PM, R. Kevin Stover wrote:
 Mike,

 You need an EC2 enclosure and the KAT100PNL front and back panel kit
 which converts the KAT100-1 to a -2.

 Since you have the KPA100 you have the KIO2 built in.

 On 8/6/2011 11:05 AM, Mike Weir wrote:
 I have a built K2 with the KPA100 installed in it, I now want to remove it 
 and place it into the EC enclosure along with my un-built  KAT-100.
 My questions are
 1. What do I need to purchase to do this from Elecraft?
 2. At a later date can I install the KAT2 tuner or does it have to be done 
 now.  I want to use the K2 for portable op's but that won't be until a later 
 date.
 Thanks all for your time
 VE3WDM
 http://ve3wdm.blogspot.com

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[Elecraft] K Line Power Requirements

2011-08-06 Thread Jack Regan
Thanks to Ron, Dick, Phil, Don and Jack responses. Very helpful!!

 

RE:  Specifications

1.   Specifications. All came from the manuals!

2.Jack noted that the KPA500 manual shows 100 to 125 VAC or 200 to
250 VAC, 50/60 Hz, approx. 1000 VA

3.   I calculated the current by dividing the VA by the VAC. I get 8.3 A
for 120 VAC and 4.13 for 240VAC.

 

Are my calculations correct?

If so, then what is the relationship to the PA Current 20 A maximum and
the PA Voltage 60 VDC nominal as shown in the manual

 

RE:  The K3PA500 does not run off the 13.8 VDC power supply

1.   The K3PA500 does not run of the 13.8 VDC power supply but in my
shack there is only one 120 VAC circuit so the current
drawn by the K3 and the KPA500 have to be added together if I was to run the
amp with the supplied 120 VAC power cord.

2.   Because of this limitation and the admonition to not run the amp
and rig on the same circuit I ran 240 to my shack to power
my Ameritron AL-811H.  This was a completely independent circuit. I ran my
K3, Yaesu UHF/VH and amp (at 600 to 800 Watts) with no problems.
BTW, when I ran the 240 to the shack I was able to then add a ground to the
old, 1933, two wire 120 VAC circuit!

3.   I am planning on running my KPA500 at 240 but wanted to calculate
the current draw on the house 120 circuit since that is the supplied
cable connection!

 

In conclusion, I think a 25 amp supply would be more than adequate. I am
leaning towards an Astron RS-35M. I like the absence of fans!!!

I would like a smaller, lighter supply and would consider a switching
supply.  I will check the archives for recommendations but if anyone has an
immediate
recommendation I would appreciate it!

 

Jack AE6GC

 

 

 

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Re: [Elecraft] [P3] P3 and K144XV

2011-08-06 Thread Tom Azlin N4ZPT
thanks Stan,

I tried that but will go back and try it again. Was planning to hook a 
spectrum analyzer to the IF out to see what the actual output level is 
when I switch to 2m.

73, tom n4zpt

On 8/6/2011 11:13 AM, Stan Gibbs wrote:
 Tom,

 Sounds like your Ref Lvl is set too high.  The color of the waterfall
 reflects the vertical position of the trace in the frequency display.  If
 you reduce the reference level, the frequency display will return to a
 viewable position, and the orange waterfall will revert to blue.

 The reference level is per-band so you have to adjust it for each band you
 operate on.  For my 2m setup the ref level is set at -145 dBm, which allows
 me to see the frequency trace when the pre-amp is on or off.



 -
 73, Stan - KR7C

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 sub receiver - kit vs assembled

2011-08-06 Thread Arie Kleingeld PA3A
Al,

Here's a video of the assembly of the K3 sub RX.
May this helps.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5EJL8SlJ_L8

73
Arie PA3A


Al Dynarski wrote:
 I am getting ready to order the sub receiver for my K3 and have been 
 reviewing the on-line manuals.  I am still puzzled as to the
 difference between the kit and assembled versions.  I haven't found a manual 
 that shows any actual 'assembly' of the sub receiver
 just the installation of the unit into the K3.  Can someone please enlighten 
 me as to what I am missing?  Thanks!



 Al   W7SYK

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[Elecraft] KPA 500 Kit arrived.

2011-08-06 Thread Paul VanOveren
USPS just delivered my amp kit, shipped from California on Thursday and arrived 
in Grand Rapids, Mi  today. Now the fun of assembly begins, serial # is 292... 

Paul, NF8J
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 sub receiver - kit vs assembled

2011-08-06 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Excellent video Arie! 

Dank je wel

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
Al,

Here's a video of the assembly of the K3 sub RX.
May this helps.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5EJL8SlJ_L8

73
Arie PA3A


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[Elecraft] XV432 Issues

2011-08-06 Thread W3MW Don
I've just finished assembly of the XV432 kit, interfaced to a K3, and ran into 
two issues during alignment in Part VI, Filter Alignment. 

First, during CW key-down, the voltage at TP5 peaks immediately, then slowly 
drops off until it is a volt or more lower than peak.  Immediately re-keying 
gets a somewhat higher voltage than at un-key, but not at the peak.  Letting it 
sit a minute or two, then re-keying, gets the original peak voltage back.  
Output power does the same fade.

Second, the 28 MHz filters don't seem to be aligning properly.  I've set the 
cans at the set-points in the manual, but L15 and L16 seem to peak with the 
slugs out of the cans.  L17 appears to peak ok, and the 432 filters both seem 
to peak fine.  At the best point of alignment, I am getting less than 7 volts 
at TP5, vs, 10 required for full output.  I've checked the K3 output, and the 
BNC cables, both are fine.  The input section of the XV is easily able to 
overdrive the input to the 28 MHz filters, as evidenced by D10 and D11 lighting 
up at roughly half setting on the input attenuator.  Max output from the PA is 
around 15 watts without lighting up D10 and D11.  I've pulled and checked the 
five caps around the filters, all are within tolerance.  Oscillator alignment 
was fine, 3v at TP1.  I've tried re-aligning these three cans several times, 
including bottoming out the slugs and working back up, with no change.

I'm on the air with it at the moment, and it seems to be working other than the 
low power output.  

Any thoughts?

Don   W3MW

w...@earthlink.net
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA-500 with and without transformer buzz

2011-08-06 Thread Dan AE9K
I've experienced silent operation and operation with hum (what I'd call more
of a transformer buzz).

My mains are between 248V and 249V so I used the yellow tap per the table in
the manual (the 231V to 250V tap).  The HV then idles around 72.4V and on
full power transmit, HV went down around 57V.  In this configuration, full
power transmit is silent, no buzz.

But per the errata for the manual for best linearity HV should be 60V or
higher during full power transmit.  So, I switched to the red tap (the 211
to 230V tap).  HV now idles at 80.0V and goes no lower than 64V on full
power transmit.  Linearity achieved, but in this configuration I get a
noticeable transformer buzz.  I opened the top and made sure everything was
secure - no change.

So, by changing the transformer voltage selection tap I've had both silent
and with-buzz operation. 

At first I was concerned the buzz was an indication I was tapped too low for
the high mains voltage but the 80V to 64V range is well within spec so I
assumed I was ok to leave it that way.  Still seems odd that I have to tap
down when I'm so close to the max input voltage.

Dan
AE9K

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View this message in context: 
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[Elecraft] Rear Panel Mic help ple

2011-08-06 Thread Ed Stallman
I' m trying to  use a Heil PR 781 microphone on the K3 rear Mic jack 
. With the settings I'm using now , I must scream into the Mic for 
radio to transmit

Here are my settings.

Main:MIC-SEL   I have set to RP, then taping the 1 sets to RPH

MIC GAIN = 60

VOX GAIN = 100

BIAS = OFF

ANTI-VOX =  0

DELAY = 5

VOX = on

Maybe the PR-781 is not a good choice or most likely I've missed a setting ? 

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Re: [Elecraft] Rear Panel Mic help ple

2011-08-06 Thread iain macdonnell - N6ML
Hi Ed,

Something is definitely not right there. I happen to have a PR-781 in
my closet (it's for sale, if anyone's interested - I only use headsets
now). I plugged it into my K3's rear input and configured:

MAIN:MIC-SEL: rP.H
MIC: 10
MAIN:VOX GN: 040

and it works great, with 5-7 bars on the ALC meter on voice peaks,
without yelling.

What are you seeing on the ALC meter? Try without VOX first, and make
sure you're getting those 5-7 bars (use the XMIT button if you don't
have an external PTT source).

Any chance you plugged yours into the line input instead of mic?

73,

~iain / N6ML



On Sat, Aug 6, 2011 at 7:32 PM, Ed Stallman n...@airmail.net wrote:
 I' m trying to  use a Heil PR 781 microphone on the K3 rear Mic jack
 . With the settings I'm using now , I must scream into the Mic for
 radio to transmit

 Here are my settings.

 Main:MIC-SEL   I have set to RP, then taping the 1 sets to RPH

 MIC GAIN = 60

 VOX GAIN = 100

 BIAS = OFF

 ANTI-VOX =  0

 DELAY = 5

 VOX = on

 Maybe the PR-781 is not a good choice or most likely I've missed a setting ?

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Re: [Elecraft] Rear Panel Mic help ple

2011-08-06 Thread Ed Stallman
Iain , thanks for your input , I did look to be sure and I am plugged 
into the Mic in the back ... Using the XMIT and monitoring the ALC 
with Mic Gain at 60 , I get one bar on the alc meter...I was using 
this Microphone and cable on a Flex 5K , Is the TRS plug wired the same ?

Ed




IainAt 03:08 PM 8/6/2011, you wrote:
Hi Ed,

Something is definitely not right there. I happen to have a PR-781 in
my closet (it's for sale, if anyone's interested - I only use headsets
now). I plugged it into my K3's rear input and configured:

MAIN:MIC-SEL: rP.H
MIC: 10
MAIN:VOX GN: 040

and it works great, with 5-7 bars on the ALC meter on voice peaks,
without yelling.

What are you seeing on the ALC meter? Try without VOX first, and make
sure you're getting those 5-7 bars (use the XMIT button if you don't
have an external PTT source).

Any chance you plugged yours into the line input instead of mic?

73,

 ~iain / N6ML



On Sat, Aug 6, 2011 at 7:32 PM, Ed Stallman n...@airmail.net wrote:
  I' m trying to  use a Heil PR 781 microphone on the K3 rear Mic jack
  . With the settings I'm using now , I must scream into the Mic for
  radio to transmit
 
  Here are my settings.
 
  Main:MIC-SEL   I have set to RP, then taping the 1 sets to RPH
 
  MIC GAIN = 60
 
  VOX GAIN = 100
 
  BIAS = OFF
 
  ANTI-VOX =  0
 
  DELAY = 5
 
  VOX = on
 
  Maybe the PR-781 is not a good choice or most likely I've missed 
 a setting ?
 
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Re: [Elecraft] [P3] P3 and K144XV

2011-08-06 Thread Tom Azlin N4ZPT
Hi Stan,

Adjusting the ref level does not help. Looking at the IF output of the 
P3 the actual signal level is not changing when I switch between 6m and 
2m. I hooked up my QS1R SDR and can see the signals fine when the P3 
water fall display is orange when I am on 2m. I can not find a ref level 
that works. Radio is working fine on 2m as I can copy signals fine.

When i disconnect the serial cable between the P3 and K3 the display is 
fine minus frequency and filter info of course.

All the software is up today. Both of my K3s do this.

Any ideas gang??

73, tom n4zpt

On 8/6/2011 11:13 AM, Stan Gibbs wrote:
 Tom,

 Sounds like your Ref Lvl is set too high.  The color of the waterfall
 reflects the vertical position of the trace in the frequency display.  If
 you reduce the reference level, the frequency display will return to a
 viewable position, and the orange waterfall will revert to blue.

 The reference level is per-band so you have to adjust it for each band you
 operate on.  For my 2m setup the ref level is set at -145 dBm, which allows
 me to see the frequency trace when the pre-amp is on or off.



 -
 73, Stan - KR7C
 --
 View this message in context: 
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/P3-P3-and-K144XV-tp5472582p6659797.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Rear Panel Mic help ple

2011-08-06 Thread Don Wilhelm
Ed,

Definitely something wrong.  How is your mic plug wired?  You should 
have the AF connected to the tip and the AF return (or shield) connected 
to the shell.

If it is connected as a balanced microphone with the AF connected to the 
tip and AF return connected to the ring, and a shield connected to the 
shell, connect the ring to the shell.  The K3 mic input is unbalanced.
Sorry, but I do not know how the Flex mic wiring is configured.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/6/2011 4:31 PM, Ed Stallman wrote:
 Iain , thanks for your input , I did look to be sure and I am plugged
 into the Mic in the back ... Using the XMIT and monitoring the ALC
 with Mic Gain at 60 , I get one bar on the alc meter...I was using
 this Microphone and cable on a Flex 5K , Is the TRS plug wired the same ?

 Ed


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Re: [Elecraft] Rear Panel Mic help ple

2011-08-06 Thread iain macdonnell - N6ML
Hi Ed,

I used an XLR - to - 1/4 cable that came with another mic, and a 1/4
- 1/8 adapter, for the quick test. Pin 2 on the XLR is connected to
the tip. and pins 1 and 3 are both connected to the shield.

I don't know about the Flex - if it's really TRS, then maybe the Flex
has a balanced mic input? The K3 input is unbalanced (mono
connector),

73,

~iain / N6ML


On Sat, Aug 6, 2011 at 8:31 PM, Ed Stallman n...@airmail.net wrote:
 Iain , thanks for your input , I did look to be sure and I am plugged into
 the Mic in the back ... Using the XMIT and monitoring the ALC with Mic Gain
 at 60 , I get one bar on the alc meter...I was using this Microphone and
 cable on a Flex 5K , Is the TRS plug wired the same ?

 Ed




 IainAt 03:08 PM 8/6/2011, you wrote:

 Hi Ed,

 Something is definitely not right there. I happen to have a PR-781 in
 my closet (it's for sale, if anyone's interested - I only use headsets
 now). I plugged it into my K3's rear input and configured:

 MAIN:MIC-SEL: rP.H
 MIC: 10
 MAIN:VOX GN: 040

 and it works great, with 5-7 bars on the ALC meter on voice peaks,
 without yelling.

 What are you seeing on the ALC meter? Try without VOX first, and make
 sure you're getting those 5-7 bars (use the XMIT button if you don't
 have an external PTT source).

 Any chance you plugged yours into the line input instead of mic?

 73,

     ~iain / N6ML



 On Sat, Aug 6, 2011 at 7:32 PM, Ed Stallman n...@airmail.net wrote:
 I' m trying to  use a Heil PR 781 microphone on the K3 rear Mic jack
 . With the settings I'm using now , I must scream into the Mic for
 radio to transmit

 Here are my settings.

 Main:MIC-SEL   I have set to RP, then taping the 1 sets to RPH

 MIC GAIN = 60

 VOX GAIN = 100

 BIAS = OFF

 ANTI-VOX =  0

 DELAY = 5

 VOX = on

 Maybe the PR-781 is not a good choice or most likely I've missed a setting
 ?

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Re: [Elecraft] Rear Panel Mic help ple

2011-08-06 Thread iain macdonnell - N6ML
PS. before I get nit-picked:) it's probably a stereo connector with
the ring not connected to anything.


On Sat, Aug 6, 2011 at 8:46 PM, iain macdonnell - N6ML a...@dseven.org wrote:
 Hi Ed,

 I used an XLR - to - 1/4 cable that came with another mic, and a 1/4
 - 1/8 adapter, for the quick test. Pin 2 on the XLR is connected to
 the tip. and pins 1 and 3 are both connected to the shield.

 I don't know about the Flex - if it's really TRS, then maybe the Flex
 has a balanced mic input? The K3 input is unbalanced (mono
 connector),

 73,

    ~iain / N6ML


 On Sat, Aug 6, 2011 at 8:31 PM, Ed Stallman n...@airmail.net wrote:
 Iain , thanks for your input , I did look to be sure and I am plugged into
 the Mic in the back ... Using the XMIT and monitoring the ALC with Mic Gain
 at 60 , I get one bar on the alc meter...I was using this Microphone and
 cable on a Flex 5K , Is the TRS plug wired the same ?

 Ed




 IainAt 03:08 PM 8/6/2011, you wrote:

 Hi Ed,

 Something is definitely not right there. I happen to have a PR-781 in
 my closet (it's for sale, if anyone's interested - I only use headsets
 now). I plugged it into my K3's rear input and configured:

 MAIN:MIC-SEL: rP.H
 MIC: 10
 MAIN:VOX GN: 040

 and it works great, with 5-7 bars on the ALC meter on voice peaks,
 without yelling.

 What are you seeing on the ALC meter? Try without VOX first, and make
 sure you're getting those 5-7 bars (use the XMIT button if you don't
 have an external PTT source).

 Any chance you plugged yours into the line input instead of mic?

 73,

     ~iain / N6ML



 On Sat, Aug 6, 2011 at 7:32 PM, Ed Stallman n...@airmail.net wrote:
 I' m trying to  use a Heil PR 781 microphone on the K3 rear Mic jack
 . With the settings I'm using now , I must scream into the Mic for
 radio to transmit

 Here are my settings.

 Main:MIC-SEL   I have set to RP, then taping the 1 sets to RPH

 MIC GAIN = 60

 VOX GAIN = 100

 BIAS = OFF

 ANTI-VOX =  0

 DELAY = 5

 VOX = on

 Maybe the PR-781 is not a good choice or most likely I've missed a setting
 ?

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 Elecraft mailing list
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Re: [Elecraft] Rear Panel Mic help ple

2011-08-06 Thread Ed Stallman
Iain and Don , you guys are on the ball, Pin 2 on the XLR is the tip 
, pin 3 is the ring and pin 1 is shield .. I don't have Mono tip, 
shield so I will move the ring wire to the shield and give it a go 
... I'll post the results.

Thanks Ed









At 03:46 PM 8/6/2011, iain macdonnell - N6ML wrote:
Hi Ed,

I used an XLR - to - 1/4 cable that came with another mic, and a 1/4




- 1/8 adapter, for the quick test. Pin 2 on the XLR is connected to
the tip. and pins 1 and 3 are both connected to the shield.

I don't know about the Flex - if it's really TRS, then maybe the Flex
has a balanced mic input? The K3 input is unbalanced (mono
connector),

73,

 ~iain / N6ML


On Sat, Aug 6, 2011 at 8:31 PM, Ed Stallman n...@airmail.net wrote:
  Iain , thanks for your input , I did look to be sure and I am plugged into
  the Mic in the back ... Using the XMIT and monitoring the ALC with Mic Gain
  at 60 , I get one bar on the alc meter...I was using this Microphone and
  cable on a Flex 5K , Is the TRS plug wired the same ?
 
  Ed
 
 
 
 
  IainAt 03:08 PM 8/6/2011, you wrote:
 
  Hi Ed,
 
  Something is definitely not right there. I happen to have a PR-781 in
  my closet (it's for sale, if anyone's interested - I only use headsets
  now). I plugged it into my K3's rear input and configured:
 
  MAIN:MIC-SEL: rP.H
  MIC: 10
  MAIN:VOX GN: 040
 
  and it works great, with 5-7 bars on the ALC meter on voice peaks,
  without yelling.
 
  What are you seeing on the ALC meter? Try without VOX first, and make
  sure you're getting those 5-7 bars (use the XMIT button if you don't
  have an external PTT source).
 
  Any chance you plugged yours into the line input instead of mic?
 
  73,
 
  ~iain / N6ML
 
 
 
  On Sat, Aug 6, 2011 at 7:32 PM, Ed Stallman n...@airmail.net wrote:
  I' m trying to  use a Heil PR 781 microphone on the K3 rear Mic jack
  . With the settings I'm using now , I must scream into the Mic for
  radio to transmit
 
  Here are my settings.
 
  Main:MIC-SEL   I have set to RP, then taping the 1 sets to RPH
 
  MIC GAIN = 60
 
  VOX GAIN = 100
 
  BIAS = OFF
 
  ANTI-VOX =  0
 
  DELAY = 5
 
  VOX = on
 
  Maybe the PR-781 is not a good choice or most likely I've missed a setting
  ?
 
  __
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Re: [Elecraft] XV432 Issues

2011-08-06 Thread Don Wilhelm
Don,

The manual doesn't state that you must adjust for 10 volts at TP5.  
Please read that section again.

It does say that you should not exceed 10 volts at TP5 during the 
bandpass filter tuning.
If the output goes above 10 volts, use the input attenuator R22) to 
bring the voltage down - perhaps in the vicinity of 5 volts, and then 
continue to look for the peak tuning point for each inductor that is to 
be adjusted.
Go back over the peaking procedure 3 or 4 times.

After you have peaked the bandpass filters, you will then adjust the 
input attenuator to produce the correct output (use an external power 
meter which is accurate at 432 MHz) while your selected maximum drive 
level is applied from your transceiver.

After that (and while the transverter is producing 20 watts), you adjust 
R10 (Power CAL) so the LEDs indicate 20 watts.

These 3 steps must be done in order - do not skip ahead or you will end 
up with frustration.  Also, do not drive the transverter for too long at 
a time - particularly during the final power adjustments.  Give enough 
break time to let it cool between adjustment trials.

73,
Don W3FPR


On 8/6/2011 3:27 PM, W3MW Don wrote:
 I've just finished assembly of the XV432 kit, interfaced to a K3, and ran 
 into two issues during alignment in Part VI, Filter Alignment.

 First, during CW key-down, the voltage at TP5 peaks immediately, then slowly 
 drops off until it is a volt or more lower than peak.  Immediately re-keying 
 gets a somewhat higher voltage than at un-key, but not at the peak.  Letting 
 it sit a minute or two, then re-keying, gets the original peak voltage back.  
 Output power does the same fade.

 Second, the 28 MHz filters don't seem to be aligning properly.  I've set the 
 cans at the set-points in the manual, but L15 and L16 seem to peak with the 
 slugs out of the cans.  L17 appears to peak ok, and the 432 filters both seem 
 to peak fine.  At the best point of alignment, I am getting less than 7 volts 
 at TP5, vs, 10 required for full output.  I've checked the K3 output, and the 
 BNC cables, both are fine.  The input section of the XV is easily able to 
 overdrive the input to the 28 MHz filters, as evidenced by D10 and D11 
 lighting up at roughly half setting on the input attenuator.  Max output from 
 the PA is around 15 watts without lighting up D10 and D11.  I've pulled and 
 checked the five caps around the filters, all are within tolerance.  
 Oscillator alignment was fine, 3v at TP1.  I've tried re-aligning these three 
 cans several times, including bottoming out the slugs and working back up, 
 with no change.

 I'm on the air with it at the moment, and it seems to be working other than 
 the low power output.

 Any thoughts?

 Don   W3MW


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Re: [Elecraft] Rear Panel Mic help ple

2011-08-06 Thread Don Wilhelm
Ed,

I would instead suggest that you open the TRS plug and connect the ring 
to the shell there.  The ring is not connected in the K3, but a stereo 
jack is used.  If the Flex uses a mono jack, the jack would have shorted 
between the ring and sleeve and the mic would work.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/6/2011 5:14 PM, Ed Stallman wrote:
 Iain and Don , you guys are on the ball, Pin 2 on the XLR is the tip , 
 pin 3 is the ring and pin 1 is shield .. I don't have Mono tip, shield 
 so I will move the ring wire to the shield and give it a go ... I'll 
 post the results.

 Thanks Ed









 At 03:46 PM 8/6/2011, iain macdonnell - N6ML wrote:
 Hi Ed,

 I used an XLR - to - 1/4 cable that came with another mic, and a 1/4




 - 1/8 adapter, for the quick test. Pin 2 on the XLR is connected to
 the tip. and pins 1 and 3 are both connected to the shield.

 I don't know about the Flex - if it's really TRS, then maybe the Flex
 has a balanced mic input? The K3 input is unbalanced (mono
 connector),

 73,

 ~iain / N6ML


 On Sat, Aug 6, 2011 at 8:31 PM, Ed Stallman n...@airmail.net wrote:
  Iain , thanks for your input , I did look to be sure and I am 
 plugged into
  the Mic in the back ... Using the XMIT and monitoring the ALC with 
 Mic Gain
  at 60 , I get one bar on the alc meter...I was using this 
 Microphone and
  cable on a Flex 5K , Is the TRS plug wired the same ?
 
  Ed
 
 
 
 
  IainAt 03:08 PM 8/6/2011, you wrote:
 
  Hi Ed,
 
  Something is definitely not right there. I happen to have a PR-781 in
  my closet (it's for sale, if anyone's interested - I only use headsets
  now). I plugged it into my K3's rear input and configured:
 
  MAIN:MIC-SEL: rP.H
  MIC: 10
  MAIN:VOX GN: 040
 
  and it works great, with 5-7 bars on the ALC meter on voice peaks,
  without yelling.
 
  What are you seeing on the ALC meter? Try without VOX first, and make
  sure you're getting those 5-7 bars (use the XMIT button if you don't
  have an external PTT source).
 
  Any chance you plugged yours into the line input instead of mic?
 
  73,
 
  ~iain / N6ML
 
 
 
  On Sat, Aug 6, 2011 at 7:32 PM, Ed Stallman n...@airmail.net wrote:
  I' m trying to  use a Heil PR 781 microphone on the K3 rear Mic jack
  . With the settings I'm using now , I must scream into the Mic for
  radio to transmit
 
  Here are my settings.
 
  Main:MIC-SEL   I have set to RP, then taping the 1 sets to RPH
 
  MIC GAIN = 60
 
  VOX GAIN = 100
 
  BIAS = OFF
 
  ANTI-VOX =  0
 
  DELAY = 5
 
  VOX = on
 
  Maybe the PR-781 is not a good choice or most likely I've missed a 
 setting
  ?
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Tom Hammond, N0SS, silent key

2011-08-06 Thread Terry Schieler
I first met Tom at the Elecraft booth at the Kirkwood, MO hamfest around 2000.  
He was vibrantly hyping the K2 which I had just started to build.  He probably 
met 1,500 people that day.  Through the years I'd call on Tom for help on 
various projects and he was always quick to respond.  The first phone call he 
returned to me started off with hey Terry, you going to the Kirkwood Hamfest 
this year?  My God, the man remembered me from that one meeting two years 
prior.  
   
A few weeks ago, someone suggested a small accessory here on the reflector and 
I sent Tom an email stating that this little project would be right up his 
alley.  I never received a response and that sent a chill up my spine.  
Something wasn't right.  
   
Rest in peace my friend.  You've done enough work down here in your lifetime 
for ten people and none of it will be forgotten.
   
   
73,  
   
Terry, W0FM
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Re: [Elecraft] Setting K3 Power Levels For KPA500

2011-08-06 Thread Dan AE9K
I would only add that on the KPA500, make sure AUXBUS is ON.  Bandswitching
works with it off but the STBY/OPER power level tracking and the KPA500
status messages in the K3's VFO B display don't.

Dan
AE9K

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View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Setting-K3-Power-Levels-For-KPA500-tp6647174p6660622.html
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Re: [Elecraft] Rear Panel Mic help ple

2011-08-06 Thread Ed Stallman
Iain , Don , thanks for the help on this , I moved the one wire and 
now al is working as it should .I got on 40m  made a  couple contacts 
with great reports

Thanks Ed N5DG






At 04:14 PM 8/6/2011, Ed Stallman wrote:
Iain and Don , you guys are on the ball, Pin 2 on the XLR is the tip
, pin 3 is the ring and pin 1 is shield .. I don't have Mono tip,
shield so I will move the ring wire to the shield and give it a go
... I'll post the results.

Thanks Ed









At 03:46 PM 8/6/2011, iain macdonnell - N6ML wrote:
 Hi Ed,
 
 I used an XLR - to - 1/4 cable that came with another mic, and a 1/4




 - 1/8 adapter, for the quick test. Pin 2 on the XLR is connected to
 the tip. and pins 1 and 3 are both connected to the shield.
 
 I don't know about the Flex - if it's really TRS, then maybe the Flex
 has a balanced mic input? The K3 input is unbalanced (mono
 connector),
 
 73,
 
  ~iain / N6ML
 
 
 On Sat, Aug 6, 2011 at 8:31 PM, Ed Stallman n...@airmail.net wrote:
   Iain , thanks for your input , I did look to be sure and I am 
 plugged into
   the Mic in the back ... Using the XMIT and monitoring the ALC 
 with Mic Gain
   at 60 , I get one bar on the alc meter...I was using this Microphone and
   cable on a Flex 5K , Is the TRS plug wired the same ?
  
   Ed
  
  
  
  
   IainAt 03:08 PM 8/6/2011, you wrote:
  
   Hi Ed,
  
   Something is definitely not right there. I happen to have a PR-781 in
   my closet (it's for sale, if anyone's interested - I only use headsets
   now). I plugged it into my K3's rear input and configured:
  
   MAIN:MIC-SEL: rP.H
   MIC: 10
   MAIN:VOX GN: 040
  
   and it works great, with 5-7 bars on the ALC meter on voice peaks,
   without yelling.
  
   What are you seeing on the ALC meter? Try without VOX first, and make
   sure you're getting those 5-7 bars (use the XMIT button if you don't
   have an external PTT source).
  
   Any chance you plugged yours into the line input instead of mic?
  
   73,
  
   ~iain / N6ML
  
  
  
   On Sat, Aug 6, 2011 at 7:32 PM, Ed Stallman n...@airmail.net wrote:
   I' m trying to  use a Heil PR 781 microphone on the K3 rear Mic jack
   . With the settings I'm using now , I must scream into the Mic for
   radio to transmit
  
   Here are my settings.
  
   Main:MIC-SEL   I have set to RP, then taping the 1 sets to RPH
  
   MIC GAIN = 60
  
   VOX GAIN = 100
  
   BIAS = OFF
  
   ANTI-VOX =  0
  
   DELAY = 5
  
   VOX = on
  
   Maybe the PR-781 is not a good choice or most likely I've 
 missed a setting
   ?
  
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[Elecraft] KAP500 S/N 263 ON THE AIR

2011-08-06 Thread Richard Griest
Ordered Unit on May 25th and Received the KPA500 last Monday August 1st.
After Parts Inventory Assembly started at 8 AM on Tuesday, August 2nd.
Powered Up and Wired Into The System - 5 Hours Later.

From the earlier post I expected missing screws, assorted hardware, Buzzing 
X'formers
all sorts of small issues.  Let me report that the unit is running on 220 Volts 
(Red Tap) Volt 
Reading is 80.4 Volts.  No Buzzing, Not a Single Screw or Hardware Missing 
and Power Output at ranges between 20 - 30 watts input, output is between 
500 - 600 watts.

Other than an issue with the PA not transmitting on 6 Meters because of the use 
of the PR6 6 Meter RX Pre- Amp, I have had 0 Issues after just short of a 
weeks 
usage on all bands!  I am using the KPA500 as a Standard PA Operation being 
keyed
via the PA Key Line between the K3 and the KPA500.  The PR6 Compatibility Issue
will be addressed in the next Firmware Release 1.09.  Elecraft offered to send 
me the 
file but I will wait until it is released and fully ready to go.

All in all the KPA500 Assembly and Operation exceeds my expectations.  

WELL DONE ELECRAFT!!  WELL DONE!!!

Richard Griest - WB4VMH
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[Elecraft] K2 Info 232 error

2011-08-06 Thread Jason Morgan
Hello everyone,
    Well I am to the point of VFO Linearization in my assembly of the K2.  When 
I attempt the steps I am getting an info 232 error.  I have checked to insure 
that that I have the freq. probe attached to the correct point and that I am on 
the correct frequency.  This is the first problem that I have had during the 
alignment phase of the receiver.  What components should I be looking for?  I 
have checked the solder joints and all seem to be ok. 
 
Any help would be appreciated.
 
73
DE
K4SHP (proud to be a KNOW code ham)
K
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[Elecraft] Elecraft SSB net announcement

2011-08-06 Thread Phillip Shepard
The weekly Elecraft SSB net will meet tomorrow (8/7/11) at 1800Z on 14.3035
MHz +/- QRM. I will be net control from western Oregon, and we'll
try relays to pull in the stations that I can't hear.  See you there.

73,

Phil, NS7P

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Re: [Elecraft] [P3] P3 and K144XV

2011-08-06 Thread Alan Bloom
It could be that the MENU:XV_Gain setting for two meters got wildly
wrong somehow.  You might try changing it.  Another possibility would be
to do the parameter initialization (under Troubleshooting in the
manual).

Alan

On Sat, 2011-08-06 at 16:40 -0400, Tom Azlin N4ZPT wrote:
 Hi Stan,
 
 Adjusting the ref level does not help. Looking at the IF output of the 
 P3 the actual signal level is not changing when I switch between 6m and 
 2m. I hooked up my QS1R SDR and can see the signals fine when the P3 
 water fall display is orange when I am on 2m. I can not find a ref level 
 that works. Radio is working fine on 2m as I can copy signals fine.
 
 When i disconnect the serial cable between the P3 and K3 the display is 
 fine minus frequency and filter info of course.
 
 All the software is up today. Both of my K3s do this.
 
 Any ideas gang??
 
 73, tom n4zpt
 
 On 8/6/2011 11:13 AM, Stan Gibbs wrote:
  Tom,
 
  Sounds like your Ref Lvl is set too high.  The color of the waterfall
  reflects the vertical position of the trace in the frequency display.  If
  you reduce the reference level, the frequency display will return to a
  viewable position, and the orange waterfall will revert to blue.
 
  The reference level is per-band so you have to adjust it for each band you
  operate on.  For my 2m setup the ref level is set at -145 dBm, which allows
  me to see the frequency trace when the pre-amp is on or off.
 
 
 
  -
  73, Stan - KR7C
  --
  View this message in context: 
  http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/P3-P3-and-K144XV-tp5472582p6659797.html
  Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] XV432 Issues

2011-08-06 Thread W3MW Don
Don,

Thanks for your reply.  It's great to get feedback here so quickly, 
especially as I managed to delay my question until a weekend.

I understand the section of the manual regarding 10 volts at TP5.  What I 
meant to indicate is that I cannot get anywhere near 9 or 10 volts at TP5 
following the normal alignment procedure, regardless of whatever setting the 
input attenuator is at.  I've followed the procedure by the manual, 
carefully, many times.  Despite repeated passes through the peaking process 
(many more than three or four, I'm afraid), I cannot get over 15 watts 
output or over 7.5 volts at TP5 regardless of the input attenuator setting. 
I've since checked the coils to be sure I have the correct ones in the 
filter.

K3 is set up for 1.00 power out, as instructed.
The fact that the overload LEDs are lighting up at the high end setting of 
the input attenuator leads me to believe that the IF in from the K3 is ok, 
and that both pre-filter amplifier stages are working as intended.
Adjustments of FL1 and FL2 are smooth and have a clearly identifiable peak, 
leading me to believe those are ok.   I'm not seeing any voltage changes 
elsewhere in the transmit chain, and the rest of the device voltages look 
good.

I made several attempts at alignment since your email, with no more success 
than earlier.  As I am concerned that the PA module may be flaky, rather 
than fry the thing by continuing to tune, it's going back to Elecraft on 
Monday for them to have a look.  I'll follow up here with the results.

Thanks again for your quick response.

73,

Don Appleby   W3MW
w...@earthlink.net

- Original Message - 
From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com
To: W3MW Don w...@earthlink.net
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, August 06, 2011 5:15 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] XV432 Issues


Don,

The manual doesn't state that you must adjust for 10 volts at TP5.
Please read that section again.

It does say that you should not exceed 10 volts at TP5 during the
bandpass filter tuning.
If the output goes above 10 volts, use the input attenuator R22) to
bring the voltage down - perhaps in the vicinity of 5 volts, and then
continue to look for the peak tuning point for each inductor that is to
be adjusted.
Go back over the peaking procedure 3 or 4 times.

After you have peaked the bandpass filters, you will then adjust the
input attenuator to produce the correct output (use an external power
meter which is accurate at 432 MHz) while your selected maximum drive
level is applied from your transceiver.

After that (and while the transverter is producing 20 watts), you adjust
R10 (Power CAL) so the LEDs indicate 20 watts.

These 3 steps must be done in order - do not skip ahead or you will end
up with frustration.  Also, do not drive the transverter for too long at
a time - particularly during the final power adjustments.  Give enough
break time to let it cool between adjustment trials.

73,
Don W3FPR


On 8/6/2011 3:27 PM, W3MW Don wrote:
 I've just finished assembly of the XV432 kit, interfaced to a K3, and ran 
 into two issues during alignment in Part VI, Filter Alignment.

 First, during CW key-down, the voltage at TP5 peaks immediately, then 
 slowly drops off until it is a volt or more lower than peak.  Immediately 
 re-keying gets a somewhat higher voltage than at un-key, but not at the 
 peak.  Letting it sit a minute or two, then re-keying, gets the original 
 peak voltage back.  Output power does the same fade.

 Second, the 28 MHz filters don't seem to be aligning properly.  I've set 
 the cans at the set-points in the manual, but L15 and L16 seem to peak 
 with the slugs out of the cans.  L17 appears to peak ok, and the 432 
 filters both seem to peak fine.  At the best point of alignment, I am 
 getting less than 7 volts at TP5, vs, 10 required for full output.  I've 
 checked the K3 output, and the BNC cables, both are fine.  The input 
 section of the XV is easily able to overdrive the input to the 28 MHz 
 filters, as evidenced by D10 and D11 lighting up at roughly half setting 
 on the input attenuator.  Max output from the PA is around 15 watts 
 without lighting up D10 and D11.  I've pulled and checked the five caps 
 around the filters, all are within tolerance.  Oscillator alignment was 
 fine, 3v at TP1.  I've tried re-aligning these three cans several times, 
 including bottoming out the slugs and working back up, with no change.

 I'm on the air with it at the moment, and it seems to be working other 
 than the low power output.

 Any thoughts?

 Don   W3MW


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Re: [Elecraft] XV432 Issues

2011-08-06 Thread Don Wilhelm
Don,

OK, and please understand that you will not necessarily obtain 10 volts 
at TP5.  The voltage there is only relative, and is only used to 
identify the peak - once the tuning peaks have been found, the voltage 
there is no longer relevant.  In other words, 10 volts at TP5 does not 
indicate full output, you must use a wattmeter that is accurate at 432 
MHz to determine the 20 watt level.

Can you measure the current that is being drawn while you attempt to get 
20 watts output?  If the current is excessive, there is a problem 
between the PA module and the antenna.

Assuming that the efficiency is 50%, it will take about 3 to 3.5 Amperes 
at 20 watts output.  As I indicated, a higher current indicates that 
there is a problem between the PA and the antenna output.
OTOH, if the current is lower, That indicates that the PA module is not 
receiving adequate drive.
If that is the case, try increasing the bias slightly to see if that 
gives any improvement.

My experience with the specifics of the XV432 is limited, so if the 
problem is low drive to the PA module, it is best to email 
supp...@elecraft.com - unfortunately, they take the weekend off for a 
well deserved rest (we volunteers do not have that privilege).

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/6/2011 10:49 PM, W3MW Don wrote:
 Don,

 Thanks for your reply.  It's great to get feedback here so quickly,
 especially as I managed to delay my question until a weekend.

 I understand the section of the manual regarding 10 volts at TP5.  What I
 meant to indicate is that I cannot get anywhere near 9 or 10 volts at TP5
 following the normal alignment procedure, regardless of whatever setting the
 input attenuator is at.  I've followed the procedure by the manual,
 carefully, many times.  Despite repeated passes through the peaking process
 (many more than three or four, I'm afraid), I cannot get over 15 watts
 output or over 7.5 volts at TP5 regardless of the input attenuator setting.
 I've since checked the coils to be sure I have the correct ones in the
 filter.

 K3 is set up for 1.00 power out, as instructed.
 The fact that the overload LEDs are lighting up at the high end setting of
 the input attenuator leads me to believe that the IF in from the K3 is ok,
 and that both pre-filter amplifier stages are working as intended.
 Adjustments of FL1 and FL2 are smooth and have a clearly identifiable peak,
 leading me to believe those are ok.   I'm not seeing any voltage changes
 elsewhere in the transmit chain, and the rest of the device voltages look
 good.

 I made several attempts at alignment since your email, with no more success
 than earlier.  As I am concerned that the PA module may be flaky, rather
 than fry the thing by continuing to tune, it's going back to Elecraft on
 Monday for them to have a look.  I'll follow up here with the results.

 Thanks again for your quick response.

 73,

 Don Appleby   W3MW
 w...@earthlink.net

 - Original Message -
 From: Don Wilhelmw3...@embarqmail.com
 To: W3MW Donw...@earthlink.net
 Cc:elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Saturday, August 06, 2011 5:15 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] XV432 Issues


 Don,

 The manual doesn't state that you must adjust for 10 volts at TP5.
 Please read that section again.

 It does say that you should not exceed 10 volts at TP5 during the
 bandpass filter tuning.
 If the output goes above 10 volts, use the input attenuator R22) to
 bring the voltage down - perhaps in the vicinity of 5 volts, and then
 continue to look for the peak tuning point for each inductor that is to
 be adjusted.
 Go back over the peaking procedure 3 or 4 times.

 After you have peaked the bandpass filters, you will then adjust the
 input attenuator to produce the correct output (use an external power
 meter which is accurate at 432 MHz) while your selected maximum drive
 level is applied from your transceiver.

 After that (and while the transverter is producing 20 watts), you adjust
 R10 (Power CAL) so the LEDs indicate 20 watts.

 These 3 steps must be done in order - do not skip ahead or you will end
 up with frustration.  Also, do not drive the transverter for too long at
 a time - particularly during the final power adjustments.  Give enough
 break time to let it cool between adjustment trials.

 73,
 Don W3FPR


 On 8/6/2011 3:27 PM, W3MW Don wrote:
 I've just finished assembly of the XV432 kit, interfaced to a K3, and ran
 into two issues during alignment in Part VI, Filter Alignment.

 First, during CW key-down, the voltage at TP5 peaks immediately, then
 slowly drops off until it is a volt or more lower than peak.  Immediately
 re-keying gets a somewhat higher voltage than at un-key, but not at the
 peak.  Letting it sit a minute or two, then re-keying, gets the original
 peak voltage back.  Output power does the same fade.

 Second, the 28 MHz filters don't seem to be aligning properly.  I've set
 the cans at the set-points in the manual, but L15 and L16 seem to peak
 with the slugs out of the cans.  L17 

Re: [Elecraft] K2 Info 232 error

2011-08-06 Thread Don Wilhelm
Jason,

During CAL PLL, Error 232 means that the firmware is not properly 
reading the frequency.  Aside from the obvious solutions of not being on 
40 meters, and forgetting to connect the counter probe to TP1,  It could 
be an indication that the counter probe is not working properly, or not 
enough RF voltage is getting to the firmware IC to reliably count the 
frequency.

Put the probe in TP1, tune to 40 meters, and enter the menu for CAL 
FCTR.  Does the frequency indicated equal approximately 4913 kHz plus 
whatever frequency is displayed on the K2 dial?  If it does, then the 
counter probe is responding correctly.  If you instead receive a varying 
frequency, or all zeros, the counter probe is not working properly.

If you do not get a proper reading at TP1, then put the counter probe 
into TP2 - you should read the BFO frequency which should be somewhere 
between 4912 and 4916 kHz (depends on mode and filter selection).

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/6/2011 8:34 PM, Jason Morgan wrote:
 Hello everyone,
  Well I am to the point of VFO Linearization in my assembly of the K2.  
 When I attempt the steps I am getting an info 232 error.  I have checked to 
 insure that that I have the freq. probe attached to the correct point and 
 that I am on the correct frequency.  This is the first problem that I have 
 had during the alignment phase of the receiver.  What components should I be 
 looking for?  I have checked the solder joints and all seem to be ok.
   
 Any help would be appreciated.


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Re: [Elecraft] XV432 Issues

2011-08-06 Thread Don Wilhelm
Don,

The overload LEDs are a different situation from your tuning/power out 
situation.

Sometimes the overload LED indication is the result of noise getting 
into the XVxxx firmware chip.
The cure for that noise is to connect a capacitor between the collector 
and emitter (ground) or Q2 on the front panel board.  Any value between 
.001 and .01 uF should do nicely.

Of course, if you are driving the XV432 with a non-elecraft transceiver, 
it could be that the overload condition is real - if the XV432 (or any 
XV series transverter) detects RF before the Key-In signal is active, it 
will cause the overload condition.  I recall you are driving the XV432 
from the K3, so I would attribute the LED flashing to a noise condition 
on the overload signalling line, and the capacitor should calm it.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/6/2011 10:49 PM, W3MW Don wrote:
 Don,

 Thanks for your reply.  It's great to get feedback here so quickly,
 especially as I managed to delay my question until a weekend.

 I understand the section of the manual regarding 10 volts at TP5.  What I
 meant to indicate is that I cannot get anywhere near 9 or 10 volts at TP5
 following the normal alignment procedure, regardless of whatever setting the
 input attenuator is at.  I've followed the procedure by the manual,
 carefully, many times.  Despite repeated passes through the peaking process
 (many more than three or four, I'm afraid), I cannot get over 15 watts
 output or over 7.5 volts at TP5 regardless of the input attenuator setting.
 I've since checked the coils to be sure I have the correct ones in the
 filter.

 K3 is set up for 1.00 power out, as instructed.
 The fact that the overload LEDs are lighting up at the high end setting of
 the input attenuator leads me to believe that the IF in from the K3 is ok,
 and that both pre-filter amplifier stages are working as intended.
 Adjustments of FL1 and FL2 are smooth and have a clearly identifiable peak,
 leading me to believe those are ok.   I'm not seeing any voltage changes
 elsewhere in the transmit chain, and the rest of the device voltages look
 good.

 I made several attempts at alignment since your email, with no more success
 than earlier.  As I am concerned that the PA module may be flaky, rather
 than fry the thing by continuing to tune, it's going back to Elecraft on
 Monday for them to have a look.  I'll follow up here with the results.

 Thanks again for your quick response.

 73,

 Don Appleby   W3MW
 w...@earthlink.net

 - Original Message -
 From: Don Wilhelmw3...@embarqmail.com
 To: W3MW Donw...@earthlink.net
 Cc:elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Saturday, August 06, 2011 5:15 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] XV432 Issues


 Don,

 The manual doesn't state that you must adjust for 10 volts at TP5.
 Please read that section again.

 It does say that you should not exceed 10 volts at TP5 during the
 bandpass filter tuning.
 If the output goes above 10 volts, use the input attenuator R22) to
 bring the voltage down - perhaps in the vicinity of 5 volts, and then
 continue to look for the peak tuning point for each inductor that is to
 be adjusted.
 Go back over the peaking procedure 3 or 4 times.

 After you have peaked the bandpass filters, you will then adjust the
 input attenuator to produce the correct output (use an external power
 meter which is accurate at 432 MHz) while your selected maximum drive
 level is applied from your transceiver.

 After that (and while the transverter is producing 20 watts), you adjust
 R10 (Power CAL) so the LEDs indicate 20 watts.

 These 3 steps must be done in order - do not skip ahead or you will end
 up with frustration.  Also, do not drive the transverter for too long at
 a time - particularly during the final power adjustments.  Give enough
 break time to let it cool between adjustment trials.

 73,
 Don W3FPR


 On 8/6/2011 3:27 PM, W3MW Don wrote:
 I've just finished assembly of the XV432 kit, interfaced to a K3, and ran
 into two issues during alignment in Part VI, Filter Alignment.

 First, during CW key-down, the voltage at TP5 peaks immediately, then
 slowly drops off until it is a volt or more lower than peak.  Immediately
 re-keying gets a somewhat higher voltage than at un-key, but not at the
 peak.  Letting it sit a minute or two, then re-keying, gets the original
 peak voltage back.  Output power does the same fade.

 Second, the 28 MHz filters don't seem to be aligning properly.  I've set
 the cans at the set-points in the manual, but L15 and L16 seem to peak
 with the slugs out of the cans.  L17 appears to peak ok, and the 432
 filters both seem to peak fine.  At the best point of alignment, I am
 getting less than 7 volts at TP5, vs, 10 required for full output.  I've
 checked the K3 output, and the BNC cables, both are fine.  The input
 section of the XV is easily able to overdrive the input to the 28 MHz
 filters, as evidenced by D10 and D11 lighting up at roughly half setting
 on the input attenuator.  Max output from the 

[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

2011-08-06 Thread Kevin Rock
Good Evening,
On July 27, 2003 I worked the twelfth operator to check in to my little  
net.  I was very green at the job, this being only the sixth time I had  
run them and was basically playing it by ear.  Then Tom Hammond arrived.   
He helped me organize the nets a little differently and then called them  
for me as a relay station and then as an alternate net control.  He  
worried in his emails to me that he was taking over.  I told him not to  
pay attention to that thought and keep helping me get better.  For many  
years he did so; assisting me in my skills at NCS and in CW.

I had heard about the OzarkCon QRP get together and thought I could  
travel there.  I told Tom and he was happy to find a way to get there.  I  
flew to Oklahoma City to meet my mentor KL7V, Sam Binkley (now N4SAM).  He  
had been helping me with CW since I could barely spell 'cat'.  He had  
taken me from a very shaky 5 wpm to over 20 wpm in daily hour long skeds  
which made my hands shake and my brain weary.  He graciously welcomed me  
into his home for the night and then we (Sam, his wife Marijo, and I)  
drove to Joplin, Missouri the next day.

I had just taken my gear to the room after checking in and saw a  
strangely familiar silhouette which gave me a clue that Tom was there.  I  
walked up to him and started a conversation like we had known each other  
for years; well, because we had.  Then Jeri gave me a hug in greeting and  
we were off.  She was about to tell me something when Tom shushed her.  He  
wrote a quick email to Wayne who gave his permission.  That is when Tom  
told me about the K3.  The first person to know about it at OzarkCon.  He  
gave me many of the design details on a flash drive.  I still have those  
somewhere and most of the details came true.

For the next couple days I tagged along behind him and watched and  
listened.  I sat down for a few presentations and was accosted by folks  
happy to meet me.  ECN does open doors for me.  I also got to
listen to a group of banjo pickers, fiddlers, and story tellers which made  
it hard to leave.  Sam found me almost asleep sitting in a chair leaned  
against the wall as the folks played on to tell me he was off to bed.  He  
knew right where to find me.

I had a great weekend there at OzarkCon with the two most important  
mentors I have had in amateur radio.  I got to know Tom face to face as  
well as I had known him on the air and via email or phone conversations.   
He was just as great in person as he was via the other mediums.  Listening  
to him teach was also enlightening and I have used those lessons while  
doing my own teaching for the local ECOM group.

Thank you Tom Hammond for all the good times, for all the lessons, and  
for all the fine memories.  Thank you for helping me with ECN for so many  
years.  Telling you that you will be missed does not plumb the depth to  
which you have touched my life.  Thank you old friend.  May you rest  
without pain or worry.

---

If anyone is interested in acting as a relay station on either net
please email me.  I will turn the net over to you for a few minutes so you
can call areas in my skip zone.  It sure would prove helpful to those I
cannot reach directly.

Please join us tomorrow afternoon and evening.

1) Hail signs  (first letter or two of the suffix of your call)
2) NCS help  (as well as QSP/QNP relay help)

Sunday 2200z (Sunday 3 PM PDT) 14050 kHz
Monday z (Sunday 5 PM PDT)  7045 kHz

 Stay well,
Kevin.  KD5ONS

-


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Re: [Elecraft] XV432 Issues

2011-08-06 Thread Dale Putnam
L
Have a great day, 
Dale - WC7S

-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com
Date: Sat, 6 Aug 2011 21:15:40 
To: w...@earthlink.net
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] XV432 Issues

Don,

The manual doesn't state that you must adjust for 10 volts at TP5.  
Please read that section again.

It does say that you should not exceed 10 volts at TP5 during the 
bandpass filter tuning.
If the output goes above 10 volts, use the input attenuator R22) to 
bring the voltage down - perhaps in the vicinity of 5 volts, and then 
continue to look for the peak tuning point for each inductor that is to 
be adjusted.
Go back over the peaking procedure 3 or 4 times.

After you have peaked the bandpass filters, you will then adjust the 
input attenuator to produce the correct output (use an external power 
meter which is accurate at 432 MHz) while your selected maximum drive 
level is applied from your transceiver.

After that (and while the transverter is producing 20 watts), you adjust 
R10 (Power CAL) so the LEDs indicate 20 watts.

These 3 steps must be done in order - do not skip ahead or you will end 
up with frustration.  Also, do not drive the transverter for too long at 
a time - particularly during the final power adjustments.  Give enough 
break time to let it cool between adjustment trials.

73,
Don W3FPR


On 8/6/2011 3:27 PM, W3MW Don wrote:
 I've just finished assembly of the XV432 kit, interfaced to a K3, and ran 
 into two issues during alignment in Part VI, Filter Alignment.

 First, during CW key-down, the voltage at TP5 peaks immediately, then slowly 
 drops off until it is a volt or more lower than peak.  Immediately re-keying 
 gets a somewhat higher voltage than at un-key, but not at the peak.  Letting 
 it sit a minute or two, then re-keying, gets the original peak voltage back.  
 Output power does the same fade.

 Second, the 28 MHz filters don't seem to be aligning properly.  I've set the 
 cans at the set-points in the manual, but L15 and L16 seem to peak with the 
 slugs out of the cans.  L17 appears to peak ok, and the 432 filters both seem 
 to peak fine.  At the best point of alignment, I am getting less than 7 volts 
 at TP5, vs, 10 required for full output.  I've checked the K3 output, and the 
 BNC cables, both are fine.  The input section of the XV is easily able to 
 overdrive the input to the 28 MHz filters, as evidenced by D10 and D11 
 lighting up at roughly half setting on the input attenuator.  Max output from 
 the PA is around 15 watts without lighting up D10 and D11.  I've pulled and 
 checked the five caps around the filters, all are within tolerance.  
 Oscillator alignment was fine, 3v at TP1.  I've tried re-aligning these three 
 cans several times, including bottoming out the slugs and working back up, 
 with no change.

 I'm on the air with it at the moment, and it seems to be working other than 
 the low power output.

 Any thoughts?

 Don   W3MW


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[Elecraft] Elecraft Customer Service

2011-08-06 Thread Bill Drobnes
I spent over an hour today (SATURDAY!) on the phone with Dale Farmer at 
Elecraft, who was resonding to an email I sent THIS MORNING!. 
My K3 100 W PA seems to not be working, and after trying everything else, it 
will go back to Elecraft on Monday for testing and/or replacement. No need to 
start a new thread...I just wanted to share this  fantastic Customer  Service 
experience!
73,
Bill  N4IEZ / F4WAE
bdrob...@yahoo.com
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