Re: [Elecraft] KE7X KX3 book available
Does the book include the KX3 features yet to be implemented, including ESSB, CW on SSB mode and synchronous AM reception ? 73 de David G4DMP In a recent message, kk5na kk...@kk5na.com writes I received Fred's KX3 book today from Lulu. First impression: EXCELLENT!!! Joe KK5NA -- + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - + | David M Pratt, Kippax, Leeds. | | Website: http://www.g4dmp.co.uk | + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - + __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 6 mtr Pre Amp mounting for back clearance
Or it could be attached to the top or side cover with Velcro or 3M automotive tape (aka Body Molding Tape @ auto parts stores) if you don't want to block the cooling fan or mess with standoffs. Mike KIØHA On 5/25/2013 10:09 PM, K7WIA wrote: This is how I mounted my Pre Amp for 6 mtrs so I would have clearance in the back, The Pre Amp does not extend any further than the back of the RS232 connectors when the cable is attached... used 2 standoff's a piece of aluminum and 2 longer screws Ed K7WIA top view http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/edmoss/DSCN0874_zpsfba39983.jpg back view http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/edmoss/DSCN0873_zps6aa58880.jpg -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-6-mtr-Pre-Amp-mounting-for-back-clearance-tp7574241.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KX3 instead of K2/100?
Having both of those radios plus (2) K3's I feel your choice would indeed be a good one. The KX3 is a much more advanced radio SDR with features the K2 didn't have make it the logical choice and with the coming options an even better one. In the last few months I have found myself using both my K3's one with a KPA500/KAT500 and the other with an Alpha/Palstar HF-Auto less and less and the KX3 more and more. With contacts that have surprised me at times working against all QRO stations.but I'm a new QRP operator only about 18 mo. and learning all of mine are SSB contacts. In fact I'm advising a newer operator/friend to buy one now, he had been holding out for a K3 but would have taken him another year + to come up with the money. I told him to buy the KX3 for now with all options then wait for the soon to be released amp/tuner for it. 73, Fred/N0AZZ K3 Ser #'s 6730/5299--KX3 # 2573--K2/100--KAT100 P3/SVGA--KPA500--KAT500--W2 -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Stephen Roberts Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2013 8:58 AM To: Elecraft Email Subject: [Elecraft] KX3 instead of K2/100? Call me crazy, but after many QRP contacts, both DX and US, I'm thinking I could be happy with just a KX3 instead of my K2/100. Is that just nutty thinking? Maybe just get a HFpacker amp for the occasional QRO boost. The SDR aspects of the KX3 are really appealing to me. Signed, Can't have it all... 73 Steve W1SFR __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html - No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3184/6355 - Release Date: 05/24/13 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KE7X KX3 book available
Yes I received my book yesterday also and the PDF version the day before. It is all I was expecting after having his book on the K3. Both versions are worth every penny and the PDF version is now installed on my 2 shack desktops, 2 laptops and my iPad even thought about my Samsung Gs4 Smartphone but didn't. The iPad is what I take with me when I go portable for SOTA have Pocket SOTA on it and phone and plus the program SOTA Logger Lite a free program. Fred's book worked in so well for this sort of thing that all I can say is THANKS!! 73, Fred/N0AZZ K3 Ser #'s 6730/5299--KX3 # 2573--K2/100--KAT100 P3/SVGA--KPA500--KAT500--W2 -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of kk5na Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2013 5:25 PM To: 'Cady, Fred'; 'Elecraft Reflector' Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KE7X KX3 book available I received Fred's KX3 book today from Lulu. First impression: EXCELLENT!!! Joe KK5NA -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Cady, Fred Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2013 6:07 PM To: Elecraft Reflector Subject: [Elecraft] KE7X KX3 book available __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html - No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3184/6355 - Release Date: 05/24/13 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Combo pre-amp
I for one would remove and sell my 2m module in my K3 in order to have an internal 6/10/12m preamp. JMHO 73, Fred/N0AZZ K3 Ser #'s 6730/5299--KX3 # 2573--K2/100--KAT100 P3/SVGA--KPA500--KAT500--W2 -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Gary Gregory Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2013 9:49 PM To: Joe Subich, W4TV Cc: elecraft List Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Combo pre-amp Ah Joe, Thankyou for resurrecting my thought that it IS possible. The issue will most likely be a lack of quantity that would be sold versus the cost to manufacture, I will live in hope...:-) thanks for the info Joe, much appreciated. 73 Gary On 26 May 2013 12:45, Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com wrote: let's not let that technical inconvenience reduce in any way my hope for a cure to my sometimes demented desires:-) I'm not saying it isn't possible ... takes one additional relay and two connectors. There are even couple unused control lines on the KXV3A that could be used to control the added relay and switch bands (10/12 and 6 M) if necessary. 73, ... Joe, W4TV On 5/25/2013 10:13 PM, Gary Gregory wrote: Hi Joe, Gee...Shlet's not let that technical inconvenience reduce in any way my hope for a cure to my sometimes demented desires:-) Of course you are quite correct Joe. Point taken mate. 73 Gary On 26 May 2013 12:06, Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com wrote: So, I will continue to want an internal pre-amp and it does not need to be for 6M as I don't operate there either. This is MY choice and does not hold sway with the masses but it is my choice after all. I agree that an internal preamp (or premps) would be ideal. However, in addition to the preamp(s) Elecraft would need to provide *another* design for the KXV3A - one that switches the RX ANT IN/OUT connections to internal jacks - as neither the original KXV3 or current KXV3A have that capability. 73, ... Joe, W4TV On 5/25/2013 9:24 PM, Gary Gregory wrote: I don't wish to flog a dead horse any further, however, choice is something it seems everyone on this list is after. So what if a K3 needs to NOT have a 2M transverter to fit a combo pre-amp?there are many K3's in the world not fitted with 2M. This is a choice made by the original owner I guess which is what it is, a choice. I fully appreciate everyone's point of view, but I would hazard a guess I am not alone in wanting an internal unit as a CHOICE, not at the expense of taking away other folks right to choose. Wayne has stated Elecraft's case and that is there is not enough room but his statement is qualified by the mention of the 2M option which is a customer choice right? So, I will continue to want an internal pre-amp and it does not need to be for 6M as I don't operate there either. This is MY choice and does not hold sway with the masses but it is my choice after all. You mention remote install, fine, but again it is still another cable and still yet another box to cart around. Setup on a table (standard picnic size) the depth of the table means you need to have the K-Line right on the rear edge and the 6M pre-amp protrudes far enough back that if you are up against a barrier of some sort, the cables push the K-Line forward and reduce the work space area such that little room is left to operate in a comfortable manner. I could pontificate forever on the drawbacks when operating portable but I am probably not a member of the right choir. Maybe an OEM will come up with a 'plug-in' internal 10M pre-amp designed for a K3.now that would solve everything for me and I wouldn't have to plead my case:-) It's all about choice folks! 73 Gary On 26 May 2013 10:32, Walter Underwood wun...@wunderwood.org wrote: The original poster mentioned those of us who operate portable. Running cables to the next room does not make that any simpler. wunder K6WRU On May 25, 2013, at 5:13 PM, Dr. William J. Schmidt, II wrote: This sounds like a lack of creative thinking. How about using two 90 degree BNC elbows on the back of the radio and a couple of BNC jumpers. You can put the preamp anywhere... even in the next room is that is your fancy. Also, you might try one of the 50+ preamps that are already available by a variety of companies with ultra-low noise figures. I'm not sure I need a preamp to take up the space of my existing 2 meter module. Dr. William J. Schmidt - K9HZ / J68HZ/ 8P6HK/ ZF2HZ Owner - Operator Big Signal Ranch Staunton, Illinois email: b...@wjschmidt.com -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.netelecraft-bounces@mailman.* *qth.net elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-bounces@**mai**lman.qth.net http://mailman.qth.net elecraft-bounces@**mailman.qth.netelecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.
Re: [Elecraft] Combo pre-amp
Joe, Gary and Joe again: I agree that an internal preamp (or premps) would be ideal. However, in addition to the preamp(s) Elecraft would need to provide *another* design for the KXV3A - one that switches the RX ANT IN/OUT connections to internal jacks - as neither the original KXV3 or current KXV3A have that capability. let's not let that technical inconvenience reduce in any way my hope for a cure to my sometimes demented desires:-) I'm not saying it isn't possible ... takes one additional relay and two connectors. There are even couple unused control lines on the KXV3A that could be used to control the added relay and switch bands (10/12 and 6 M) if necessary. Been there, tried that. I tried two different ways to retrofit an internal preamp for 6m, and neither of them worked well enough to keep. The problem is that any modification has to work within the very tight space behind the rear panel of the KXV3 module. There is barely enough space to install a tiny PC board behind the RX ANT IN and RX ANT OUT connectors, with very tight limits on what can be included on that board. The track layouts had to be designed with a step size of 0.025in and in some places the tolerances were even tighter than that. Board #1 used a single subminiature DPDT relay and included a very simple wideband preamp; but the single relay gave insufficient isolation to prevent the preamp from oscillating out-of-band. There wasn't enough space on the board for two relays, tuned circuits or any additional shielding and decoupling; and it was impossible to make any further tweaks without completely extracting the KXV3 module. Board #2 was simpler, this time with two DPDT relays for improved port-to-port isolation, and with two coax fly-leads that were long enough to reach into the space above the KRX3 module (which Elecraft had reserved for the 144MHz transverter). That allowed me to use a fully shielded 6m preamp which gave a dramatic improvement in sensitivity - but now the VFO encoder noise made it impossible to tune the band! I believe that new problem was due to the use of two different grounding points, at the KXV3 and on the top cover of the KRX3, and I couldn't see any way around that. At that point I gave up on the idea of retrofitting an internal 6m preamp. Elecraft could have included it at the initial design stage, of course; but if my reading of history is correct, the demand for greater sensitivity on 6m came after the K3 had been launched on the market. By that time the internal hardware design was already locked down, so I can fully understand why Elecraft were obliged to produce the PR6 as an external add-on. Wayne has acknowledged that the K3 can sometimes be lacking in sensitivity on 6m, and has stated that the external PR6 module is Elecraft's solution. I wouldn't expect that position to change significantly. 73 from Ian GM3SEK __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Combo pre-amp
Hi ian, Gee thanks for the insight to your attempts on an internal pre-amp. I imagine that the lack of sensitivity on 12/15M has appeared after production also so again the position would be the same from Elecraft. It is a pity that to correct this can only be remedied with an external device. If they ever produce a remote 10/12M preamp that could be sat a foot or so away from the K3 this would help in my case but may not suit home stations and others. I realise I am most likely in a small minority here and I accept that without reservations. I would rather pay for what I need rather than a combo including 6M which is of no use to me. 73 Gary On 26 May 2013 19:39, Ian White gm3...@ifwtech.co.uk wrote: Joe, Gary and Joe again: I agree that an internal preamp (or premps) would be ideal. However, in addition to the preamp(s) Elecraft would need to provide *another* design for the KXV3A - one that switches the RX ANT IN/OUT connections to internal jacks - as neither the original KXV3 or current KXV3A have that capability. let's not let that technical inconvenience reduce in any way my hope for a cure to my sometimes demented desires:-) I'm not saying it isn't possible ... takes one additional relay and two connectors. There are even couple unused control lines on the KXV3A that could be used to control the added relay and switch bands (10/12 and 6 M) if necessary. Been there, tried that. I tried two different ways to retrofit an internal preamp for 6m, and neither of them worked well enough to keep. The problem is that any modification has to work within the very tight space behind the rear panel of the KXV3 module. There is barely enough space to install a tiny PC board behind the RX ANT IN and RX ANT OUT connectors, with very tight limits on what can be included on that board. The track layouts had to be designed with a step size of 0.025in and in some places the tolerances were even tighter than that. Board #1 used a single subminiature DPDT relay and included a very simple wideband preamp; but the single relay gave insufficient isolation to prevent the preamp from oscillating out-of-band. There wasn't enough space on the board for two relays, tuned circuits or any additional shielding and decoupling; and it was impossible to make any further tweaks without completely extracting the KXV3 module. Board #2 was simpler, this time with two DPDT relays for improved port-to-port isolation, and with two coax fly-leads that were long enough to reach into the space above the KRX3 module (which Elecraft had reserved for the 144MHz transverter). That allowed me to use a fully shielded 6m preamp which gave a dramatic improvement in sensitivity - but now the VFO encoder noise made it impossible to tune the band! I believe that new problem was due to the use of two different grounding points, at the KXV3 and on the top cover of the KRX3, and I couldn't see any way around that. At that point I gave up on the idea of retrofitting an internal 6m preamp. Elecraft could have included it at the initial design stage, of course; but if my reading of history is correct, the demand for greater sensitivity on 6m came after the K3 had been launched on the market. By that time the internal hardware design was already locked down, so I can fully understand why Elecraft were obliged to produce the PR6 as an external add-on. Wayne has acknowledged that the K3 can sometimes be lacking in sensitivity on 6m, and has stated that the external PR6 module is Elecraft's solution. I wouldn't expect that position to change significantly. 73 from Ian GM3SEK __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- *Gary - VK1ZZ Skype: Gary.VK1ZZ Motorhome Portable The Shack* *Elecraft K3 P3 Panadapter KPA500FT KAT500FT** KX3-K * __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] N4PY Rig Control Software with K2/K3
David - Carl gives a free 10 day trial. You have all the stuff. Give it a try for yourself. I have N4PY on my K2 at this time and it works well. My K3 is still at the factory getting fixed. Been a couple of weeks with no end in sight so I am getting reacquainted with the K2. 73 de K1ESE John Original Message - I noticed on Carl N4PY's website that his rig control software allows a K2 to act as a sub-receiver for the K3. The K2 functions through VFO B on the K3. I have a K3 without the sub-receiver and a K2. I would be interested if anyone has implemented this combination and what their opinions are. 73 de K6SBA David in Santa Barbara __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Combo pre-amp
I hope Eric and Wayne are reading this one, Joe! 73, Greg-N4CC - Original Message - From: Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com To: Gary Gregory vk1zzg...@gmail.com Cc: elecraft List elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2013 11:04 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Combo pre-amp I don't know about that ... the incremental cost for the KXV3A vs. KXV3 was minimal. The firmware changes to support two more control lines should be minimal. As far as an internal preamp - it should not be significantly more complex than the PR6. With switching on a KVX3B, an internal preamp would not need the bypass relays so they could be used for band switching if needed. However, if the user did not want a 10/12 preamp, it would not be a stretch to use the existing PR6 internally for six meters only. One would think it relatively straightforward to switch two input tuning/matching networks in a PR6 style preamp or an alternate, broadband design could be used to completely avoid the need for band switching. With a little care in the design and programming, a higher gain/lower nf preamp could be substituted (electronically) for the standard preamp or the controls could be arranged to cycle through none/norm/opt. 73, ... Joe, W4TV On 5/25/2013 10:48 PM, Gary Gregory wrote: Ah Joe, Thankyou for resurrecting my thought that it IS possible. The issue will most likely be a lack of quantity that would be sold versus the cost to manufacture, I will live in hope...:-) thanks for the info Joe, much appreciated. 73 Gary On 26 May 2013 12:45, Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com wrote: let's not let that technical inconvenience reduce in any way my hope for a cure to my sometimes demented desires:-) I'm not saying it isn't possible ... takes one additional relay and two connectors. There are even couple unused control lines on the KXV3A that could be used to control the added relay and switch bands (10/12 and 6 M) if necessary. 73, ... Joe, W4TV On 5/25/2013 10:13 PM, Gary Gregory wrote: Hi Joe, Gee...Shlet's not let that technical inconvenience reduce in any way my hope for a cure to my sometimes demented desires:-) Of course you are quite correct Joe. Point taken mate. 73 Gary On 26 May 2013 12:06, Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com wrote: So, I will continue to want an internal pre-amp and it does not need to be for 6M as I don't operate there either. This is MY choice and does not hold sway with the masses but it is my choice after all. I agree that an internal preamp (or premps) would be ideal. However, in addition to the preamp(s) Elecraft would need to provide *another* design for the KXV3A - one that switches the RX ANT IN/OUT connections to internal jacks - as neither the original KXV3 or current KXV3A have that capability. 73, ... Joe, W4TV On 5/25/2013 9:24 PM, Gary Gregory wrote: I don't wish to flog a dead horse any further, however, choice is something it seems everyone on this list is after. So what if a K3 needs to NOT have a 2M transverter to fit a combo pre-amp?there are many K3's in the world not fitted with 2M. This is a choice made by the original owner I guess which is what it is, a choice. I fully appreciate everyone's point of view, but I would hazard a guess I am not alone in wanting an internal unit as a CHOICE, not at the expense of taking away other folks right to choose. Wayne has stated Elecraft's case and that is there is not enough room but his statement is qualified by the mention of the 2M option which is a customer choice right? So, I will continue to want an internal pre-amp and it does not need to be for 6M as I don't operate there either. This is MY choice and does not hold sway with the masses but it is my choice after all. You mention remote install, fine, but again it is still another cable and still yet another box to cart around. Setup on a table (standard picnic size) the depth of the table means you need to have the K-Line right on the rear edge and the 6M pre-amp protrudes far enough back that if you are up against a barrier of some sort, the cables push the K-Line forward and reduce the work space area such that little room is left to operate in a comfortable manner. I could pontificate forever on the drawbacks when operating portable but I am probably not a member of the right choir. Maybe an OEM will come up with a 'plug-in' internal 10M pre-amp designed for a K3.now that would solve everything for me and I wouldn't have to plead my case:-) It's all about choice folks! 73 Gary On 26 May 2013 10:32, Walter Underwood wun...@wunderwood.org wrote: The original poster mentioned those of us who operate portable. Running cables to the next room does not make that any simpler. wunder K6WRU On May 25, 2013, at 5:13 PM, Dr. William J. Schmidt, II wrote: This sounds like a lack of creative thinking. How about using two 90 degree BNC elbows
Re: [Elecraft] Combo pre-amp
I have a new design Norton preamplifier that might be useful for this purpose. It has 11 dB gain through 30 MHz and 9 dB at 54 MHz, noise figure is in the 2.5-3 dB range, OIP2 +85 dBm, OIP3 +42 dBm. The OIP values are conservative numbers. When power is switched off, the preamp is bypassed. Housed in a custom built, powder coated, silk screened enclosure. Power requirements, 13.6V @ 100 mA. Model no. Z10043S. Anyone interested in one can contact me off-list for a data sheet, pricing and delivery schedule. This preamp is not shown at my web site - too new to have a page yet. Jack K8ZOA On 5/26/2013 6:21 AM, Gary Gregory wrote: Hi ian, Gee thanks for the insight to your attempts on an internal pre-amp. I imagine that the lack of sensitivity on 12/15M has appeared after production also so again the position would be the same from Elecraft. It is a pity that to correct this can only be remedied with an external device. If they ever produce a remote 10/12M preamp that could be sat a foot or so away from the K3 this would help in my case but may not suit home stations and others. I realise I am most likely in a small minority here and I accept that without reservations. I would rather pay for what I need rather than a combo including 6M which is of no use to me. 73 Gary On 26 May 2013 19:39, Ian White gm3...@ifwtech.co.uk wrote: Joe, Gary and Joe again: I agree that an internal preamp (or premps) would be ideal. However, in addition to the preamp(s) Elecraft would need to provide *another* design for the KXV3A - one that switches the RX ANT IN/OUT connections to internal jacks - as neither the original KXV3 or current KXV3A have that capability. let's not let that technical inconvenience reduce in any way my hope for a cure to my sometimes demented desires:-) I'm not saying it isn't possible ... takes one additional relay and two connectors. There are even couple unused control lines on the KXV3A that could be used to control the added relay and switch bands (10/12 and 6 M) if necessary. Been there, tried that. I tried two different ways to retrofit an internal preamp for 6m, and neither of them worked well enough to keep. The problem is that any modification has to work within the very tight space behind the rear panel of the KXV3 module. There is barely enough space to install a tiny PC board behind the RX ANT IN and RX ANT OUT connectors, with very tight limits on what can be included on that board. The track layouts had to be designed with a step size of 0.025in and in some places the tolerances were even tighter than that. Board #1 used a single subminiature DPDT relay and included a very simple wideband preamp; but the single relay gave insufficient isolation to prevent the preamp from oscillating out-of-band. There wasn't enough space on the board for two relays, tuned circuits or any additional shielding and decoupling; and it was impossible to make any further tweaks without completely extracting the KXV3 module. Board #2 was simpler, this time with two DPDT relays for improved port-to-port isolation, and with two coax fly-leads that were long enough to reach into the space above the KRX3 module (which Elecraft had reserved for the 144MHz transverter). That allowed me to use a fully shielded 6m preamp which gave a dramatic improvement in sensitivity - but now the VFO encoder noise made it impossible to tune the band! I believe that new problem was due to the use of two different grounding points, at the KXV3 and on the top cover of the KRX3, and I couldn't see any way around that. At that point I gave up on the idea of retrofitting an internal 6m preamp. Elecraft could have included it at the initial design stage, of course; but if my reading of history is correct, the demand for greater sensitivity on 6m came after the K3 had been launched on the market. By that time the internal hardware design was already locked down, so I can fully understand why Elecraft were obliged to produce the PR6 as an external add-on. Wayne has acknowledged that the K3 can sometimes be lacking in sensitivity on 6m, and has stated that the external PR6 module is Elecraft's solution. I wouldn't expect that position to change significantly. 73 from Ian GM3SEK __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Setup Failing
I have done it several times with no change in the result. Tnx. *Brian F. Wruble, C.F.A. *70 is the new 40.* * Mail: 1107 Key Plaza, PMB 447 Key West, FL 33040-4077 Summers: P.O.Box 57, 7400 Augustine Herman Highway, Georgetown, MD 21930 eFax 305.768.0278 On Sun, May 26, 2013 at 1:34 AM, Andy Wood vk...@woodtech.net.au wrote: Hi Brian, Try running VCO MD CAL again. I have had problems with this in the past. Andy VK4KY -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-Setup-Failing-tp7574207p7574246.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] FS K2/10
For sale: K2/10, latest circuit board rev. and firmware. Sale includes: - K2/10 built and aligned, - KAT2 (20W Internal ATU, installed), - KIO2 (RS-232 Serial Interface, installed), - KSB2 (SSB Option, installed), - KNB2 (Noise Blanker, installed), - KDSP2 (DSP Audio Filter, installed), - MH2 (Hand Microphone), - Finger Dimple (installed), - boxes, manuals, both Allen wrenches, internal frequency counter cable, built RS-232 cable and power cable. New prices for these options and the unbuilt K2 Kit from Elecraft would be $1560 + EU VAT. This K2 is fully operational and used in a non-smoking environment. I will ship to EU for €990. PayPal is the only payment option. Please contact me off list for pictures and questions. 73, Bart SQ5OBP __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 remote KPA100 / KAT100?
Andrew, The same question was asked on May 5, and here is how I answered. Hope you find this info helpful. --- I do not have the website information, but I think I can describe it on words - it is not that difficult. If you are adding the KAT100 as well as the KPA100, order the KAT100-2 as well as the KPA100. (If you already have a KAT100-1, there is a conversion kit available from Elecraft - or at least used to be) The KAT100-2 contains all the connectors for plugging in the KPA100 (except for the speaker cable), connect the base K2 RF (the ANT1 jack if the KAT2 is included) to the RF IN jack on the KAT100 and connect the KAT100 control cable between the KIO2 option in the base K2 and the DB-9 jack on either the KAT100 or the KAT100. If you do not wish to use the KAT100, it is just as easy. Drill a hole in the bottom of of the EC2 enclosure (right rear area) to mount a BNC connector. Solder an E620012 header to the back of the BNC jack to provide a connector to plug the KPA100 input coax into - you will have 2 of those parts with the KPA100 kit - they are normally used at K2 RF P3 and P6. Make certain the orientation is correct, the center conductor of the input coax must connect to the BNC jack center conductor. Download the KAT100 manual from Elecraft and build the control cable that is shown in that manual. Connect the base K2 RF output to the BNC jack on the EC2 enclosure and the control cable to the DB-9 connector on the KPA100. The connector with 2 cables must be plugged into the KIO2 if you use the connection to the computer. Just one additional caution - do all the KPA100 alignment and calibration and checkout while connected directly to the base K2 (no QRP top cover), and check out the KAT100 using that same configuration. Once everything works in that configuration, move the KPA100 to the EC2 and put the QRP top cover on the K2 - connect the 2 cables between the K2 and EC2 and it should work OK. -- 73, Don W3FPR On 5/25/2013 9:32 AM, Andrew Moore wrote: There used to be some sites that described how to put a KPA100 and KAT100 in a remote EC2 enclosure for the K2, but I can't find these anymore. Can anyone point me to the info? Thanks 73, --Andrew, NV1B __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Control board diode
Hi All, I acquired my K2 pre-loved (second-hand) and it seems to be working just fine. However, today I started working on installing a new option into it and I noticed that the diode D1 on the control board has been disconnected at one end (but left soldered in at the other end - so it hangs off the board). Can someone enlighten me as to why this might have been done? I've looked through the manuals and haven't spotted it as a step in fitting any of the options. Thanks in advance. -- Regards Andy, G8TQH http://www.rickham.net/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Combo pre-amp
Ian, On 5/26/2013 5:39 AM, Ian White wrote: The problem is that any modification has to work within the very tight space behind the rear panel of the KXV3 module. There is barely enough space to install a tiny PC board behind the RX ANT IN and RX ANT OUT connectors, with very tight limits on what can be included on that board. The track layouts had to be designed with a step size of 0.025in and in some places the tolerances were even tighter than that. I'm talking about a solution that would switch the RX IN/OUT connection from the rear panel to board connections on the KXV3B much the same as is done for XVTR IN/OUT in the KXV3A. That means one is not dealing with the narrow space between the KXV3 and KXV3 connector board and all returns would come from the KV3B board. Wayne has acknowledged that the K3 can sometimes be lacking in sensitivity on 6m, and has stated that the external PR6 module is Elecraft's solution. I wouldn't expect that position to change significantly. The external module is a workable solution for a single band and I understand the difficulty in changing out the broadband bipolar preamp or adding an alternate preamp in the current signal flow but this would be a reasonable alternative for those who do not want/need the internal transverter. BTW, I looked at your web site and don't find any information on calculating NF from MDS ... just curious. 73, ... Joe, W4TV __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Control board diode
Andy, D1 is necessary to provide AGC and S-meter indication. I suspect the owner who lifted the end of D1 wanted AGC OFF all the time. AGC OFF is available as a 2 button hold (PRE/ATT and AGC) from the front panel, but it does not survive a power off cycle. I would think you should reconnect it. 73, Don W3FPR On 5/26/2013 8:50 AM, Andy McMullin wrote: Hi All, I acquired my K2 pre-loved (second-hand) and it seems to be working just fine. However, today I started working on installing a new option into it and I noticed that the diode D1 on the control board has been disconnected at one end (but left soldered in at the other end - so it hangs off the board). Can someone enlighten me as to why this might have been done? I've looked through the manuals and haven't spotted it as a step in fitting any of the options. Thanks in advance. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K3 S/N 7394 RF Out = 0 Problem
This is a continuation of yesterday's issues. In retracing my steps, I see that the basic K3 passed the Transmitter Gain Calibration step and the rig with the KPA3 installed did as well. Something went awry after that. After that, I added only the KRX-3. I got distracted by a problem with that, and I never realized things had changed in the RF Output department. Does anyone have a checklist of voltages, resistance readings, etc. that I can go down in looking for the problem. I will start by removing the KRX-3 (subreceiver), and seeing if it works then. Your thought are much appreciated. 73 de Brian W3BW *Brian F. Wruble, C.F.A. *70 is the new 40.* * Mail: 1107 Key Plaza, PMB 447 Key West, FL 33040-4077 Summers: P.O.Box 57, 7400 Augustine Herman Highway, Georgetown, MD 21930 eFax 305.768.0278 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Kit or factory assembled K3?
One more question: Kit or factory assembled K3? Thanks for your help. I am practically 86 but I think that I could handle the kit. Dick, N5XRD __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Kit or factory assembled K3?
I think it is well worth the extra $200 to purchase at least a basic factory-assembled K3-10. If you are interested in saving a few bucks and getting to know the innards of the rig, then you can add all the extra stuff yourself. The main advantage of getting the assembled rig is the final factory acceptance test, verifying that all of the circuitry and features of the main board are operational. This eliminates the possibility that the radio is not Dead On Assembly, as happened to me, through no fault of my own. Elecraft cannot test every circuit on that main board when they do the testing at the board level. The radio is a great value, even at the factory-assembled price. Dave Hachadorian, K6LL Yuma, Arizona -Original Message- From: Richard W Hemingway Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2013 12:22 PM To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Kit or factory assembled K3? One more question: Kit or factory assembled K3? Thanks for your help. I am practically 86 but I think that I could handle the kit. Dick, N5XRD __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Kit or factory assembled K3?
I built the K3 and bought the P3. To do it again, I would have bought the K3 built also. It isn't putting it together - took about eight hours and nothing was difficult. However, the P3 was up and running in 30 minutes. And, of course, there is the factor of factory tested. I plan on the 500 Wat amp and tuner soon and will buy them built. Just have to find a justification for the new amp. I have a single 3-500 and a PalStar tuner that do a fine job on 75 meters. I rarely touch them, as most of the frequencies I use are quite close to one another. But, it would give me an excuse to design and built a new radio desk. I enjoy woodworking. Bill W2BLC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KPA500 question about cooling
Is it necessary that the top of the amp be unblocked? I was thinking of the KAT500 being placed on top of the amp. Perhaps the other way around would be better? Any side clearances required? I am designing a new radio desk that will house my K3, P3, and yet to be purchased amp and tuner. Thanks, Bill W2BLC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 question about cooling
On Sun, 26 May 2013 16:40:48 -0400, Bill wrote: Is it necessary that the top of the amp be unblocked? I was thinking of the KAT500 being placed on top of the amp. Perhaps the other way around would be better? Any side clearances required? You'll find out when you build the KPA that the top needs to be kept clear. Air intake is at the top, and exhaust at the rear. It moves a lot of air when the fan hits high gear :) Others have put the tuner under the amp. It also helps to hold the tuner down when you hit a button. I'm more than likely going to do the same thing when I get mine. Gary __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Elecraft SSB net results for 5/26/13
We had a small net today with 20 participants over an 18 minute period. Participants from the 5/26/13 net follow: Station NameQTH Rig S/N K5RHD Randy NM K3 7170 KF5TPU Don MS K3 7261 W4PFM PaulVA K3 1673 KE5VDT Roger TX K3 6054 K4GCJ Gerry NC K3 1597 W7NMD Palmer AR K3 3779 K2UTBob NJ KX3 1418 KF5IMA Bruce MS K2 3575 W4RKS Jim AL K3 3618 K5OAI Sam TX K3 4123 W0FMTerry MO K3 474 KJ6CBS DaveCA K3 4052 AB7CE Roy MT KX3 115 N6JWJohnCA KX3 515 KB9BNI JohnIN K3 3338 WW4JF JohnTN K3 6185 WB9JNZ EricIL K3 4017 K9QJS HoopWA K3 6884 WV5IDwayne TX K3 5287 NS7PPhilOR K3 1826 73, Phil, NS7P __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Fwd: K3 S/N 7394 RF Out = 0 Problem
OK, I have un-built the kit back to before the KPA3 was installed. It still fails the 5 watt Transmitter Gain Calibration Procedure. I cannot detect any RF out. Perhaps unbuilding the kit creates it's own set of problems, but this test worked on the way up. It also worked with the PA installed. It stopped working when I installed the sub-receiver. That is now no longer installed. Again, all suggestions welcome De Brian W3BW -- 70 is the new 40. Brian F. Wruble, C.F.A. 1107 Key Plaza, PMB 447 Key West, FL 33040 Summers: P.O.Box 57, 7400 Augustine Herman Highway, Georgetown, MD 21930 eFax 305.768.0278 Skype bwruble Begin forwarded message: From: Brian F. Wruble bwru...@gmail.com Date: May 26, 2013, 1:05:02 PM EDT To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net, supp...@elecraft.com Subject: K3 S/N 7394 RF Out = 0 Problem Reply-To: bwru...@gmail.com This is a continuation of yesterday's issues. In retracing my steps, I see that the basic K3 passed the Transmitter Gain Calibration step and the rig with the KPA3 installed did as well. Something went awry after that. After that, I added only the KRX-3. I got distracted by a problem with that, and I never realized things had changed in the RF Output department. Does anyone have a checklist of voltages, resistance readings, etc. that I can go down in looking for the problem. I will start by removing the KRX-3 (subreceiver), and seeing if it works then. Your thought are much appreciated. 73 de Brian W3BW *Brian F. Wruble, C.F.A. 70 is the new 40. * Mail: 1107 Key Plaza, PMB 447 Key West, FL 33040-4077 Summers: P.O.Box 57, 7400 Augustine Herman Highway, Georgetown, MD 21930 eFax 305.768.0278 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] W2 firmware anomaly
Good afternoon all. Today I decided to dust of my W2 and put it back in service but had something odd happen after updating the firmware (from 0.94 to 1.00) and was wondering if anyone else had seen this. The firmware load went fine and afterward everything was working great except for adjustment of the SWR alarm trip point. Sending the [ and ] commands with the W2 Utility always resulted in a response of [00; or ]00; regardless of how many times they were sent. This happened whether or not the alarm function was enabled or a sensor was connected to the W2. I also tried powering it off then back on, restarting the W2 utility, etc. with no changes. All other commands worked as expected. My computer (Windows 7) doesn't have a real serial port so I'm using the KUSB cable with FTDI chipset which has never given me any trouble. I noticed that firmware v0.94 did not have this capability and I had never used the alarm function before anyhow. Maybe that had something to do with it? I finally thought that maybe a plug had to be in the 'REM' jack on the back of the unit for the alarm function to respond so I tried that. The first reponse was again [00; but after that it came back with [50; indicating it was set for 5.0 and it started working as it should. I was then able to vary the trip point up and down (from 1.2 to 5.0) and get the response I expected. After that I tried removing the cable and it kept working, power cycling the unit (including turning off the power supply it was connected to) with and without the cable and it kept working. It seems to be fine now, so I'm not sure what I did or didn't do. I built the W2 from the kit if that matters, but it has always worked great excluding this. Thanks for your input. Matt / KG6KSL __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Combo pre-amp
W4TV wrote: I'm talking about a solution that would switch the RX IN/OUT connection from the rear panel to board connections on the KXV3B much the same as is done for XVTR IN/OUT in the KXV3A. That means one is not dealing with the narrow space between the KXV3 and KXV3 connector board and all returns would come from the KV3B board. I do see what you mean, Joe, but it was beyond the level of modification that I was prepared to attempt. BTW, I looked at your web site and don't find any information on calculating NF from MDS ... just curious. You're right, it's all in 'The VHF/UHF DX Book' which is out of print, but you can find some of the same material in the Agilent Technologies Application Note AN57-2. Here's a brief summary. Noise floor aka MDS is a power level in units of watts. Noise Figure is based on the more fundamental concept of noise temperature (see AN57-2). Noise temperature is measured in units of kelvin (K) and is calculated from MDS by : T = (MDS, W) / (1.38 x 10^-23 x (bandwidth, Hz)) The more common engineering quantity is noise figure (NF) which has units of dB and is derived from T by a standard definition: NF = 10 log10 (T/290 + 1) For the K3, the specified MDS at 50MHz (internal preamp on) is -136 to -138dBm in 500Hz bandwidth. If you follow the example calculation, you will find that -138dBm corresponds to a noise temperature of 2297K and a noise figure of 9.5dB. 73 from Ian GM3SEK __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 question about cooling
The KAT500 may be placed on TOP or under the KPA500. From Placement on page 3 of the KAT500 manual: The KAT500 may be placed under or above either the Elecraft K3 transceiver or the KPA500 solid state amplifier. The KAT500 can easily handle the weight of the KPA500 amplifier. The KPA500's footprint matches both units and the feet provide adequate spacing for proper cooling of the K3 or KPA500. -- The feet on the KAT500 provide ample clearance for all the cooling air the KPA500 needs. 73, Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bill Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2013 1:41 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] KPA500 question about cooling Is it necessary that the top of the amp be unblocked? I was thinking of the KAT500 being placed on top of the amp. Perhaps the other way around would be better? Any side clearances required? I am designing a new radio desk that will house my K3, P3, and yet to be purchased amp and tuner. Thanks, Bill W2BLC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Kit or factory assembled K3?
I believe the individual boards in the kits undergo the same production testing as the factory-assembled units. Eric has weighed in on that point in the past. 73, Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dave Hachadorian Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2013 12:36 PM To: Elecraft Reflector Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Kit or factory assembled K3? I think it is well worth the extra $200 to purchase at least a basic factory-assembled K3-10. If you are interested in saving a few bucks and getting to know the innards of the rig, then you can add all the extra stuff yourself. The main advantage of getting the assembled rig is the final factory acceptance test, verifying that all of the circuitry and features of the main board are operational. This eliminates the possibility that the radio is not Dead On Assembly, as happened to me, through no fault of my own. Elecraft cannot test every circuit on that main board when they do the testing at the board level. The radio is a great value, even at the factory-assembled price. Dave Hachadorian, K6LL Yuma, Arizona __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: K3 S/N 7394 RF Out = 0 Problem
Hi Brian, Make sure all of connectors between the front panel and the main pcb are mated / seated correctly. I had some unusual intermittent problems, including no RF out, due to bad connections here. In my case, removing the front panel and giving the connectors treatment with deoxit solved all of the issues. MY S/N is early 3000 and has tin plated connectors. I believe the later units have gold connectors. Just another thought, check that all of the TMP cables are seated fully. If you are still stuck, I would suggest a phone call or email to Elecraft support. I have always found their product backup to be exemplary. Andy VK4KY -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-S-N-7394-RF-Out-0-Problem-tp7574264p7574277.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 question about cooling
On Sun, 26 May 2013 15:06:25 -0700, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: The KAT500 may be placed on TOP or under the KPA500. I wouldn't put it on top. I can hear fan and air changes if I get within a half inch of the intake slots with my hand at higher speeds. You can feel the air flow considerably at high speed with your hand an inch over the opening. That means it does affect the airflow to put something that close. I don't care if the factory or a manual says you can do it. I sure wouldn't run mine that way. Gary __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 question about cooling
Gary, sometimes I, too, take a more cautious approach to how I set up and operate gear than the manufacturer specifies. It's all a matter of what we individually are comfortable doing. I just wanted to answer Bill's question. As far as Elecraft is concerned, the KAT500 can go on top of the KPA500. IMX, the Elecraft engineers are very conservative. If there's any chance of causing a problem, they won't recommend it. 73, Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of mcduf...@ag0n.net Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2013 3:23 PM To: elecraft Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 question about cooling On Sun, 26 May 2013 15:06:25 -0700, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: The KAT500 may be placed on TOP or under the KPA500. I wouldn't put it on top. I can hear fan and air changes if I get within a half inch of the intake slots with my hand at higher speeds. You can feel the air flow considerably at high speed with your hand an inch over the opening. That means it does affect the airflow to put something that close. I don't care if the factory or a manual says you can do it. I sure wouldn't run mine that way. Gary __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Kit or factory assembled K3?
The main board in my kit had a component that was improperly soldered. It was explained to me at the time that the defect was not detectable in board-level testing. Maybe that testing has improved over time. Dave Hachadorian, K6LL Yuma, Arizona -Original Message- From: Ron D'Eau Claire Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2013 3:13 PM To: 'Dave Hachadorian' ; 'Elecraft Reflector' Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Kit or factory assembled K3? I believe the individual boards in the kits undergo the same production testing as the factory-assembled units. Eric has weighed in on that point in the past. 73, Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dave Hachadorian Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2013 12:36 PM To: Elecraft Reflector Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Kit or factory assembled K3? I think it is well worth the extra $200 to purchase at least a basic factory-assembled K3-10. If you are interested in saving a few bucks and getting to know the innards of the rig, then you can add all the extra stuff yourself. The main advantage of getting the assembled rig is the final factory acceptance test, verifying that all of the circuitry and features of the main board are operational. This eliminates the possibility that the radio is not Dead On Assembly, as happened to me, through no fault of my own. Elecraft cannot test every circuit on that main board when they do the testing at the board level. The radio is a great value, even at the factory-assembled price. Dave Hachadorian, K6LL Yuma, Arizona __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 question about cooling
If you put the KAT500 above the amp the fans run more often, but are able to keep the amp cool enough for most normal uses. K6XX did test this early on with thermometers. It comes up to fan temp more quickly, but settles at the same temp. I have mine above the amp, but the amp can also be above the ATU, which is what I might do except that the cover of my ATU is off most of the time for a firmware debug cable. Putting the amp over the ATU helps keep the ATU in place if you are troubled by cables tending to move the ATU. I like the look of K3, P3, and KAT500 lined up. I don't need to operate controls on either the amp or ATU often enough to make it a significant ergonomic issue. I do care about the height of the K3 above the desk tho. If I were a RTTY contester in the tropics, I would allow more than minimum clear air space around the rig and amp. It's a personal choice issue. 73 de Dick, K6KR On May 26, 2013, at 1:40 PM, Bill b...@w2blc.net wrote: Is it necessary that the top of the amp be unblocked? I was thinking of the KAT500 being placed on top of the amp. Perhaps the other way around would be better? Any side clearances required? I am designing a new radio desk that will house my K3, P3, and yet to be purchased amp and tuner. Thanks, Bill W2BLC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 question about cooling
On 26 May 2013, at 4:47 PM, mcduf...@ag0n.net wrote: On Sun, 26 May 2013 16:40:48 -0400, Bill wrote: Is it necessary that the top of the amp be unblocked? I was thinking of the KAT500 being placed on top of the amp. Perhaps the other way around would be better? Any side clearances required? You'll find out when you build the KPA that the top needs to be kept clear. Air intake is at the top, and exhaust at the rear. It moves a lot of air when the fan hits high gear :) Others have put the tuner under the amp. It also helps to hold the tuner down when you hit a button. I'm more than likely going to do the same thing when I get mine. I thought that, too, so when I set up my K-Line I put the KAT500 under the KPA500 on the desk. Then I saw the setup at Dayton, where they had the KPA500 with the KAT500 on top. I asked the person at the booth and he told me that there is no problem running the amp with the tuner on top, that they are designed to have adequate cooling when installed in that position. Hope this helps. John K8AJS jbast...@me.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Kit or factory assembled K3?
Hi Dick, I've built all my Elecraft radios and accessories [K2, KX1, K3, P3, KPA500, KAT500, and a W1]. I was 63 when I built the K2, it took a lot of concentration and no building if tired or had a glass of wine or a beer with dinner. I banned the vacuum from the room for the duration. I built my KX1 when I was 64. Smaller project, tighter quarters, equally hard. I built my K3 [S/N 642] when I was 65. It's all mechanical, but quite a bit of the work required good fine motor coordination. It went OK. I'm 72 now, about to score another birthday. I *might* consider building a K2, it's all thru-hole parts. I wouldn't build a KX1. I built my KPA500 a year or so ago, like the K3, it's basically mechanical, there are wires and cables to connect. Again, fine motor coordination and reasonably good vision required. The toroid power xfmr is fairly heavy. KAT500 went together fairly quickly. If you're 85, you might consider the extra cost of the factory assembled unit, especially if you don't have good vision, a way of measuring screws, and generally good dexterity with small parts. Just my experiences, if I live to 86, given the progress of my old injuries, I doubt I'd build a K3. 73, Fred K6DGW - Northern California Contest Club - CU in the 2013 Cal QSO Party 5-6 Oct 2013 - www.cqp.org On 5/26/2013 12:22 PM, Richard W Hemingway wrote: One more question: Kit or factory assembled K3? Thanks for your help. I am practically 86 but I think that I could handle the kit. Dick, N5XRD __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Kit or factory assembled K3?
Age attacks us all differently. I'm in my mid-70's and don't hesitate to tackle a build, even one using very small SMDs. If you can assemble something using 4-40 hardware, you can build a K3. However, I can no longer run five miles on the beach. That's a bummer. As my friend Fred and I have often noted, ageing is not for wimps. 73, Ron AC7AC -Original Message- Hi Dick, I've built all my Elecraft radios and accessories [K2, KX1, K3, P3, KPA500, KAT500, and a W1]. I was 63 when I built the K2, it took a lot of concentration and no building if tired or had a glass of wine or a beer with dinner. I banned the vacuum from the room for the duration. I built my KX1 when I was 64. Smaller project, tighter quarters, equally hard. I built my K3 [S/N 642] when I was 65. It's all mechanical, but quite a bit of the work required good fine motor coordination. It went OK. I'm 72 now, about to score another birthday. I *might* consider building a K2, it's all thru-hole parts. I wouldn't build a KX1. I built my KPA500 a year or so ago, like the K3, it's basically mechanical, there are wires and cables to connect. Again, fine motor coordination and reasonably good vision required. The toroid power xfmr is fairly heavy. KAT500 went together fairly quickly. If you're 85, you might consider the extra cost of the factory assembled unit, especially if you don't have good vision, a way of measuring screws, and generally good dexterity with small parts. Just my experiences, if I live to 86, given the progress of my old injuries, I doubt I'd build a K3. 73, Fred K6DGW - Northern California Contest Club - CU in the 2013 Cal QSO Party 5-6 Oct 2013 - www.cqp.org On 5/26/2013 12:22 PM, Richard W Hemingway wrote: One more question: Kit or factory assembled K3? Thanks for your help. I am practically 86 but I think that I could handle the kit. Dick, N5XRD __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 question about cooling
I do a lot of meteor scatter on 6 meters, and I've tried the tuner both above and below the amp. I've found the KPA500 runs cooler with the KAT500 tuner below the amp. 73 de Sebastian, W4AS On May 26, 2013, at 6:23 PM, mcduf...@ag0n.net wrote: On Sun, 26 May 2013 15:06:25 -0700, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: The KAT500 may be placed on TOP or under the KPA500. I wouldn't put it on top. I can hear fan and air changes if I get within a half inch of the intake slots with my hand at higher speeds. You can feel the air flow considerably at high speed with your hand an inch over the opening. That means it does affect the airflow to put something that close. I don't care if the factory or a manual says you can do it. I sure wouldn't run mine that way. Gary __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
