Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering

[Brendon Whateley]

Does a hot-air rework station make this all easier? I've long been toying
with getting one for SMD work.


- Brendon

On Sat, Feb 20, 2016 at 8:21 PM, W Paul Mills  wrote:

> I used solder pooling 40 years ago to remove round 10 lead IC's from the
> crowded Motorola HT-220's. Worked great with good technique. Technique
> was to dribble it on, until touching all leads, then dip iron in puddle,
> and quickly pull. Clean up was easy with a solder sucker.
>
> Chip-Quick is great, because it melts at a low temp. But be careful, if
> not careful, it can go 'everywhere'! Been there, done that!
>
>
> On 02/20/2016 11:50 AM, Wayne Burdick wrote:
> > I really should update the Desoldering Primer to mention Chip-Quik. I've
> used it to remove 100-pin TQFPs with no damage to the parts or the PCB.
> It's really cool stuff.
> >
> > Wayne
> > N6KR
> >
> >
> > On Feb 20, 2016, at 9:36 AM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft <
> elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:
> >
> >> And as a last resort, cut the leads and then clean out the bad parts
> and leads.  Even the best rework gal will not try to save a multi-leaded
> part.  Too much risk of damage to the PCB.
> >>
> >> Mel, K6KBE
> >
> >
> >
> > __
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> >
>
>
> --
> /*
> * Amateur Radio Station AC0HY*
> * W. Paul Mills SN807*
> * Assistant EC Alpha-1 ARES Shawnee/Wabunsee, KS *
> * President Kaw Valley Amateur Radio Club*
> */
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Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering

[Fred Townsend]

One way of looking at desoldering it's god's way of punishing you for making
stupid mistakes. Seriously, desoldering is not easy and not easily learned
even if you have a good teacher. Two people trained alike will not do it
alike. It takes lots of patience in personal self-taught learning. Patience
is also the key word in the actual removal process. I think women are better
at it because they don't lose patience and resort to brute force. The best
paid person on the production line will be the rework specialist because
they earn every penny. 

You have already been given much good advice. The only thing I would add is
to buy some junk boards at surplus or flea market and practice before you
try the expensive boards.
73,
Fred, AE6QL 

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Mark
Petrovic
Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2016 7:12 AM
To: elecr...@qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Unsoldering

I'm assembling an Elecraft K1, and get the distinct feeling that unsoldering
really is the last thing you want to be involved in.  I have solder wick
that has embedded flux, and I have a solder sucker that seems huge compared
to the size of the features I'm dealing with.
The wick works ok at getting some of the solder out, but not all of it.  And
a little bit of residual solder is still a major physical blocker to
correcting a misplaced component or bad joint.

I feel like I'm a pretty good solder-er, but I have not had good luck with
unsoldering.  Is it just me or does everyone have this problem?

Thanks.
Mark
AE6RT

--
Mark
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Re: [Elecraft] KRx3a Install

[Vic Rosenthal]

Regarding the 'blind' installation: you can see the connectors if you take off 
the left side panel. It helps a lot.

Vic 4X6GP

> On 20 Feb 2016, at 11:16 PM, Bob Novas  wrote:
> 
> Today I installed a KRX3A in a K3S.  Not my favorite day.  On the plus side,
> I plugged the K3S in and everything seems to be working. Big grin!  On the
> negative side.
> 
> 
> 
> 1.  I do not believe there is anywhere described installing the TMP
> cable between KREF3 J5 and KRX3A J82, other than in Figure 47. I didn't know
> which length TMP cable to use, so I used a 10" one.
> 
> 2.  I have a 5" TMP cable left over (I chose to go the Aux Antenna BNC
> Connector route).  Is this expected?
> 
> 3.  I hate the way the KRX3A has to be blindly inserted onto the
> input/output connectors.  I guess I got it right.
> 
> 4.  The config menu says that a KRX3 is installed (not a KRX3A). Is that
> ok? (latest firmware all around).
> 
> 
> 
> All in all, a harrowing 4 hour experience I don't want to repeat. Hopefully
> the results will be worth it!
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[Elecraft] Elecraft T1 tuner for sale.

[Randy Tomer via Elecraft]

Elecraft T1 qrp portable antenna tuner for sale.
The front panel is pre-scuffed for that authenticqrp-pedition look.  Tuner 
works great.
$75 plus postage.
Thanks, Randy Tomer, W6RA
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Re: [Elecraft] Coax Cable Interconnections

[Don Wilhelm]

Ted,

I would suggest RG-8X or RG-58 for interstation connections.  Those 
'jumpers' are usually only a few feet long.
Once you exit the station, you will likely have longer coax runs to the 
antenna where the larger coax makes sense.
The coax cable loss is proportional to the length and the inherent loss 
of the connecting cables.

Smaller and short coax cables will have insignificant loss at HF.
Smaller coax diameters will have smaller bending radius requirements 
than larger coax.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/20/2016 9:34 PM, Dauer, Edward wrote:

A week or two ago there was a thread here on the permissible bending radius of 
various types of coax, occasioned by a discussion of “ugly balun” chokes.  The 
problem, I gather, is that with a small radius turn the inner conductor can 
migrate through the dialectric.  I filed the point away but didn’t think much 
about it at the time since I don’t (as of this moment) use coax chokes.  But 
today, as I was doing some tidying up of the rat’s nest of cables behind my 
desk’s misleadingly neat façade, I noticed something.  The coax – RG8 – 
connecting the KPA500 to the KAT500 sitting atop takes a very sharp bend.  The 
same is true of the cable coming out of the K3, making a sharp right turn, 
travelling under the desk and then making another sharp turn to connect to the 
amp.  The same is true of the K2 and its tuner on which it is perched – a 
short, sharp turn.

I am going to guess that any change to the characteristic impedence, if the 
center conductors in the interconnects do migrate, would not itself be a 
problem over very short lengths.  But the possibility of a dialectric breakdown 
caused by a severe migration is more troubling.  So a question for those who 
know about such things:  In the zeal for tidyness and the shortest possible 
cables, is there a significant risk?  How fast does migration occur – should 
these sharp-U-turn interconnecting cables be replaced on some regular basis?

Ted, KN1CBR
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Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering

[W Paul Mills]

I used solder pooling 40 years ago to remove round 10 lead IC's from the
crowded Motorola HT-220's. Worked great with good technique. Technique
was to dribble it on, until touching all leads, then dip iron in puddle,
and quickly pull. Clean up was easy with a solder sucker.

Chip-Quick is great, because it melts at a low temp. But be careful, if
not careful, it can go 'everywhere'! Been there, done that!


On 02/20/2016 11:50 AM, Wayne Burdick wrote:
> I really should update the Desoldering Primer to mention Chip-Quik. I've used 
> it to remove 100-pin TQFPs with no damage to the parts or the PCB. It's 
> really cool stuff.
> 
> Wayne
> N6KR
> 
> 
> On Feb 20, 2016, at 9:36 AM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft 
>  wrote:
> 
>> And as a last resort, cut the leads and then clean out the bad parts and 
>> leads.  Even the best rework gal will not try to save a multi-leaded part.  
>> Too much risk of damage to the PCB.  
>>
>> Mel, K6KBE
> 
> 
> 
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> 


-- 
/*
* Amateur Radio Station AC0HY*
* W. Paul Mills SN807*
* Assistant EC Alpha-1 ARES Shawnee/Wabunsee, KS *
* President Kaw Valley Amateur Radio Club*
*/
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Re: [Elecraft] K3/K3S 10W models with KXPA100

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

The KXPA100 can handle 10 watts through the antenna switch receive path (TX
not enabled). It's not recommended because the TX switch can add more
harmonic energy when transmitting that way, but a slight mis-timing with a
foot or other switch won't hurt it. And 10 watts is enough for 100 watts
out. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don
Wilhelm
Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2016 8:10 PM
To: george fritkin; lstavenhagen; El
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3/K3S 10W models with KXPA100

George,

A footswitch will work as long as you operate it before transmitting any RF.
I would prefer an amp keying circuit over a footswitch since there can be
occasions of human failure - "I hit the key (or mic PTT) before I activated
the footswitch".

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/20/2016 9:58 PM, george fritkin wrote:
> Why not a foot switch
>
>
> George, W6GF
>
> On February 20, 2016, at 6:48 PM, Don Wilhelm 
wrote:
>
> LS,
>
> The KXPA100 will work with any QRP transceiver that produces a KEYOUT 
> signal.
> The K3/10, K3S/10 and the KX3 can do that, it is just a matter of a 
> proper cable.
>
> The K2/10 does not have a KEYOUT line (although the K2/100 does).  I 
> would recommend that you build the circuit shown on Tom Hammond N0SS
> (SK) website at http://www.mmccs.com/mmarc/n0ss/index_k2.html.
> Since Tom is SK, no boards are available, but the circuit is easy 
> enough to build on perfboard.  Just follow Tom's board layout which is 
> clearly identified full scale on his website and connect the wires.  
> If you have the capabilities for etching your own board, the process 
> is easy since Tom provided full scale images of his board.
> I have built several of the perfboard verions of that circuit and they 
> work fine.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 2/20/2016 9:25 AM, lstavenhagen wrote:
>> Hi all,
>> May be a bit silly of a question, but how well does the KXPA 100 work 
>> with the K3 or K3S 10W model? Reason I ask is I now have 3 10W rigs 
>> (K3, K3S and a K2) and may be building a 4th soon (another K2/10). 
>> And in the very rare event when do go QRO, it would probably be 
>> cheaper to just get one 100W amp to use with them all than 4 100W amp
modules for each.
>>
>> So my idea is a KXPA100 for my QRO ops with each one. So just curious 
>> how well this amp works with the K3 and K3S? I would imagine it'd be 
>> similar to using it with the K2 or ?
>>
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] Coax Cable Interconnections

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

I use right-angle adapters to minimize the radius of the turns if I'm 
restricted to RG-8 size coax, but almost all of my inter-equipment connections 
are RG-58. It's FB all the way above 1 KW as long as it's not subjected to very 
high SWR's at high power. (Actually RG-58 can handle 2 or 3 KW at an SWR of 
1:1). 

73, Ron AC7AC 

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dauer, 
Edward
Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2016 6:35 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Coax Cable Interconnections

A week or two ago there was a thread here on the permissible bending radius of 
various types of coax, occasioned by a discussion of “ugly balun” chokes.  The 
problem, I gather, is that with a small radius turn the inner conductor can 
migrate through the dialectric.  I filed the point away but didn’t think much 
about it at the time since I don’t (as of this moment) use coax chokes.  But 
today, as I was doing some tidying up of the rat’s nest of cables behind my 
desk’s misleadingly neat façade, I noticed something.  The coax – RG8 – 
connecting the KPA500 to the KAT500 sitting atop takes a very sharp bend.  The 
same is true of the cable coming out of the K3, making a sharp right turn, 
travelling under the desk and then making another sharp turn to connect to the 
amp.  The same is true of the K2 and its tuner on which it is perched – a 
short, sharp turn.

I am going to guess that any change to the characteristic impedence, if the 
center conductors in the interconnects do migrate, would not itself be a 
problem over very short lengths.  But the possibility of a dialectric breakdown 
caused by a severe migration is more troubling.  So a question for those who 
know about such things:  In the zeal for tidyness and the shortest possible 
cables, is there a significant risk?  How fast does migration occur – should 
these sharp-U-turn interconnecting cables be replaced on some regular basis?

Ted, KN1CBR
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Re: [Elecraft] K3/K3S 10W models with KXPA100

[Don Wilhelm]

George,

A footswitch will work as long as you operate it before transmitting any RF.
I would prefer an amp keying circuit over a footswitch since there can 
be occasions of human failure - "I hit the key (or mic PTT) before I 
activated the footswitch".


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/20/2016 9:58 PM, george fritkin wrote:

Why not a foot switch


George, W6GF

On February 20, 2016, at 6:48 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

LS,

The KXPA100 will work with any QRP transceiver that produces a KEYOUT
signal.
The K3/10, K3S/10 and the KX3 can do that, it is just a matter of a
proper cable.

The K2/10 does not have a KEYOUT line (although the K2/100 does).  I
would recommend that you build the circuit shown on Tom Hammond N0SS
(SK) website at http://www.mmccs.com/mmarc/n0ss/index_k2.html.
Since Tom is SK, no boards are available, but the circuit is easy enough
to build on perfboard.  Just follow Tom's board layout which is clearly
identified full scale on his website and connect the wires.  If you have
the capabilities for etching your own board, the process is easy since
Tom provided full scale images of his board.
I have built several of the perfboard verions of that circuit and they
work fine.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/20/2016 9:25 AM, lstavenhagen wrote:

Hi all,
May be a bit silly of a question, but how well does the KXPA 100 work with
the K3 or K3S 10W model? Reason I ask is I now have 3 10W rigs (K3, K3S and
a K2) and may be building a 4th soon (another K2/10). And in the very rare
event when do go QRO, it would probably be cheaper to just get one 100W amp
to use with them all than 4 100W amp modules for each.

So my idea is a KXPA100 for my QRO ops with each one. So just curious how
well this amp works with the K3 and K3S? I would imagine it'd be similar to
using it with the K2 or ?



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Re: [Elecraft] K3/K3S 10W models with KXPA100

[David Guernsey via Elecraft]

Curious if 0H0SS amp will work with K3/10? 73 de Dave KJ6CBS

  From: george fritkin via Elecraft 
 To: "w3fpr@embarqmail com" ; lstavenhagen 
; El  
 Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2016 8:58 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3/K3S 10W models with KXPA100
   
Why not a foot switch 


George, W6GF 

On February 20, 2016, at 6:48 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

LS,

The KXPA100 will work with any QRP transceiver that produces a KEYOUT 
signal.
The K3/10, K3S/10 and the KX3 can do that, it is just a matter of a 
proper cable.

The K2/10 does not have a KEYOUT line (although the K2/100 does).  I 
would recommend that you build the circuit shown on Tom Hammond N0SS 
(SK) website at http://www.mmccs.com/mmarc/n0ss/index_k2.html.
Since Tom is SK, no boards are available, but the circuit is easy enough 
to build on perfboard.  Just follow Tom's board layout which is clearly 
identified full scale on his website and connect the wires.  If you have 
the capabilities for etching your own board, the process is easy since 
Tom provided full scale images of his board.
I have built several of the perfboard verions of that circuit and they 
work fine.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/20/2016 9:25 AM, lstavenhagen wrote:
> Hi all,
> May be a bit silly of a question, but how well does the KXPA 100 work with
> the K3 or K3S 10W model? Reason I ask is I now have 3 10W rigs (K3, K3S and
> a K2) and may be building a 4th soon (another K2/10). And in the very rare
> event when do go QRO, it would probably be cheaper to just get one 100W amp
> to use with them all than 4 100W amp modules for each.
>
> So my idea is a KXPA100 for my QRO ops with each one. So just curious how
> well this amp works with the K3 and K3S? I would imagine it'd be similar to
> using it with the K2 or ?
>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] RESOLVED (was: acceptable network switch (aka Linksys produces birdies))

[Bill Cobb]

I use the Netgear GS108 switch with similar results — not aware of any noise.  
It has been installed for over a year.

Bill  k4yjj


> On Feb 20, 2016, at 9:37 PM, John Shadle  wrote:
> 
> I don't want to say it was the Linksys network switch -- but "it was the
> Linksys network switch".
> 
> Just replaced it with a Netgear switch with a metal enclosure (GS305, for
> those keeping score at home). Plugged it in, plugged in the network devices
> (VoIP phone, laptop), and went downstairs to scan the bands for potential
> issues. The Linksys, as you may remember, produced noise every 30kHz or so
> on 40m (worst) and also on other bands. It was S9+ noise. Really
> irritating. The Netgear produces no such noise on 40m or any other band
> that I can discern.
> 
> So, it's nice to have this resolved without having to re-wire the entire
> house or search out another part to replace. :-)
> 
> Thanks for all of your help -- and I highly recommend the Netgear GS305 if
> you are looking for a 5 port network switch!
> 
> 73
> -john NE4U
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Re: [Elecraft] K3/K3S 10W models with KXPA100

[george fritkin via Elecraft]

Why not a foot switch 


George, W6GF 

On February 20, 2016, at 6:48 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

LS,

The KXPA100 will work with any QRP transceiver that produces a KEYOUT 
signal.
The K3/10, K3S/10 and the KX3 can do that, it is just a matter of a 
proper cable.

The K2/10 does not have a KEYOUT line (although the K2/100 does).  I 
would recommend that you build the circuit shown on Tom Hammond N0SS 
(SK) website at http://www.mmccs.com/mmarc/n0ss/index_k2.html.
Since Tom is SK, no boards are available, but the circuit is easy enough 
to build on perfboard.  Just follow Tom's board layout which is clearly 
identified full scale on his website and connect the wires.  If you have 
the capabilities for etching your own board, the process is easy since 
Tom provided full scale images of his board.
I have built several of the perfboard verions of that circuit and they 
work fine.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/20/2016 9:25 AM, lstavenhagen wrote:
> Hi all,
> May be a bit silly of a question, but how well does the KXPA 100 work with
> the K3 or K3S 10W model? Reason I ask is I now have 3 10W rigs (K3, K3S and
> a K2) and may be building a 4th soon (another K2/10). And in the very rare
> event when do go QRO, it would probably be cheaper to just get one 100W amp
> to use with them all than 4 100W amp modules for each.
>
> So my idea is a KXPA100 for my QRO ops with each one. So just curious how
> well this amp works with the K3 and K3S? I would imagine it'd be similar to
> using it with the K2 or ?
>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] K3/K3S 10W models with KXPA100

[Don Wilhelm]

LS,

The KXPA100 will work with any QRP transceiver that produces a KEYOUT 
signal.
The K3/10, K3S/10 and the KX3 can do that, it is just a matter of a 
proper cable.


The K2/10 does not have a KEYOUT line (although the K2/100 does).  I 
would recommend that you build the circuit shown on Tom Hammond N0SS 
(SK) website at http://www.mmccs.com/mmarc/n0ss/index_k2.html.
Since Tom is SK, no boards are available, but the circuit is easy enough 
to build on perfboard.  Just follow Tom's board layout which is clearly 
identified full scale on his website and connect the wires.  If you have 
the capabilities for etching your own board, the process is easy since 
Tom provided full scale images of his board.
I have built several of the perfboard verions of that circuit and they 
work fine.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/20/2016 9:25 AM, lstavenhagen wrote:

Hi all,
May be a bit silly of a question, but how well does the KXPA 100 work with
the K3 or K3S 10W model? Reason I ask is I now have 3 10W rigs (K3, K3S and
a K2) and may be building a 4th soon (another K2/10). And in the very rare
event when do go QRO, it would probably be cheaper to just get one 100W amp
to use with them all than 4 100W amp modules for each.

So my idea is a KXPA100 for my QRO ops with each one. So just curious how
well this amp works with the K3 and K3S? I would imagine it'd be similar to
using it with the K2 or ?




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[Elecraft] RESOLVED (was: acceptable network switch (aka Linksys produces birdies))

[John Shadle]

I don't want to say it was the Linksys network switch -- but "it was the
Linksys network switch".

Just replaced it with a Netgear switch with a metal enclosure (GS305, for
those keeping score at home). Plugged it in, plugged in the network devices
(VoIP phone, laptop), and went downstairs to scan the bands for potential
issues. The Linksys, as you may remember, produced noise every 30kHz or so
on 40m (worst) and also on other bands. It was S9+ noise. Really
irritating. The Netgear produces no such noise on 40m or any other band
that I can discern.

So, it's nice to have this resolved without having to re-wire the entire
house or search out another part to replace. :-)

Thanks for all of your help -- and I highly recommend the Netgear GS305 if
you are looking for a 5 port network switch!

73
-john NE4U
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[Elecraft] Coax Cable Interconnections

[Dauer, Edward]

A week or two ago there was a thread here on the permissible bending radius of 
various types of coax, occasioned by a discussion of “ugly balun” chokes.  The 
problem, I gather, is that with a small radius turn the inner conductor can 
migrate through the dialectric.  I filed the point away but didn’t think much 
about it at the time since I don’t (as of this moment) use coax chokes.  But 
today, as I was doing some tidying up of the rat’s nest of cables behind my 
desk’s misleadingly neat façade, I noticed something.  The coax – RG8 – 
connecting the KPA500 to the KAT500 sitting atop takes a very sharp bend.  The 
same is true of the cable coming out of the K3, making a sharp right turn, 
travelling under the desk and then making another sharp turn to connect to the 
amp.  The same is true of the K2 and its tuner on which it is perched – a 
short, sharp turn.

I am going to guess that any change to the characteristic impedence, if the 
center conductors in the interconnects do migrate, would not itself be a 
problem over very short lengths.  But the possibility of a dialectric breakdown 
caused by a severe migration is more troubling.  So a question for those who 
know about such things:  In the zeal for tidyness and the shortest possible 
cables, is there a significant risk?  How fast does migration occur – should 
these sharp-U-turn interconnecting cables be replaced on some regular basis?

Ted, KN1CBR
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Repair Turn around Time

[Don Wilhelm]

Bruce,

The actual repairs do not take that long - figure a day for the actual 
repair on most cases.  The real question is just how soon can a 
technician get to a particular repair.


I work on the legacy gear for Elecraft (K2, K1, KX1, XV series 
transverters) and the total turnaround time depends on how much backlog 
I have stacked up.  I do all work on a first in, first out basis 
depending on when the radio arrives here.

My personal backlog varies from 1 week to 3 weeks.

The work queue at Elecraft for the K3/K3S, KX3 is similar, and I believe 
is handled in the same way - first in, first out.


The RSA forms currently being issued by Elecraft state a 3 week 
turnaround time.  In some cases, it can be shorter, but normally not 
longer that that 3 weeks unless highly unusual situations exist.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/20/2016 8:56 PM, Bruce Osterberg wrote:
Hello: Curious about the turn around time for a K3 sent into Elecraft 
for Repair?


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Repair Turn around Time

[Gerald Manthey]

Bruce
Depends on time to trouble shoot and others ahead. But I can tell you from 
experience, they fix them like they were brand new again. I sent mine in and 
wow. I had had it back in a reasonable amount to time and having been burned in 
again and it came back like new and not a issue. 
Great people working for this great company.  
Hope that helps. 
73 Gerald KC6CNN


> On Feb 20, 2016, at 7:56 PM, Bruce Osterberg  wrote:
> 
> Hello:  Curious about the turn around time for a K3 sent into Elecraft for 
> Repair?
> 
> Bruce N9BX 73
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[Elecraft] For Sale KFL3A-1.0K

[Randy Tomer via Elecraft]

For Sale KFL3A-1.0K 8 pole cw/data wide filter.

$95 plus postage
Thanks,Randy Tomer, W6RA
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[Elecraft] K3 Repair Turn around Time

[Bruce Osterberg]

Hello:  Curious about the turn around time for a K3 sent into Elecraft 
for Repair?


Bruce N9BX 73
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Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering

[GRANT YOUNGMAN]

The 808 has been discontinued.  I happened to see the replacement at Fry’s the 
other day — the FR-300.  Seems to run from around $260 for the basic gun to 
$350 or so for a complete kit with stand, cleaning mesh, various nozzles etc.

Supposedly it’s “new and improved”.  I’m tempted to try one, since my 808  — a 
mainstay on the bench — has a tendency to clog and require frequent cleaning, 
especially working with big solder globs on vintage gear.  Or you can go big 
time and bigger $$ with an FR-400 which has a separate vacuum unit.

Grant NQ5T
K3 #2091, KX3 #8342




> On Feb 20, 2016, at 7:10 PM, Charlie T, K3ICH  wrote:
> 
> Hakko 808
> 
> Buy the stand that's made for it if the one you
> get doesn't already come with the stand.
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Hakko 808

Buy the stand that's made for it if the one you
get doesn't already come with the stand.

Charlie k3ICH



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On
Behalf Of K9ZTV
Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2016 7:53 PM
To: Steve 
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering

Yes, and what I neglected to mention as a warning
to new users is that the barrel is ALWAYS hot.
Care must be taken when laying it down as to WHERE
you lay it down.  If it's plugged in, it's hot and
can cause serious burns and burning.  But it's
great at what it's designed to do. 

Kent  K9ZTV


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Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering

[Al Gulseth]

FWIW the Automated Production Equipment (APE) EX-525 is virtually the same as 
the Pace MBT-100. (From what I understand the EX-525 was a required "second 
source" for the MBT-100 on a military contract a few decades ago.)

73, Al

On Sat February 20 2016 4:10:25 pm Reuben Popp wrote:

>
> I was lucky enough at the time to inherit a Pace desoldering unit (a
> MBT-100 in fact) that came from the old circuits course at the local
> college.  For through-hole type projects, those things are a godsend.  I
> still have it too, having just replaced the handset along with acquiring a
> handful of new tips.  If you have it in the budget (and plan on doing more
> kits), I highly recommend keeping an eye out for one.  They're discontinued
> now from Pace, but there's still plenty out there with lots of life left in
> them and parts are available if you look.
>
> That said, I think I used that thing more than not as my "skill" with wick
> has only really come to fruition in recent times.
>
> Good luck
> Reuben
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Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering

[K9ZTV]

Yes, and what I neglected to mention as a warning to new users is that the 
barrel is ALWAYS hot.  Care must be taken when laying it down as to WHERE you 
lay it down.  If it's plugged in, it's hot and can cause serious burns and 
burning.  But it's great at what it's designed to do. 

Kent  K9ZTV

> On Feb 20, 2016, at 2:45 PM, Steve  wrote:
> 
> The Hakko 808 also makes a GREAT magnet wire enamel stripping and lead 
> tinning tool!  
> 
> 73,
> Steve
> aa8af
> 
>> On Feb 20, 2016, at 11:27 AM, K9ZTV  wrote:
>> 
>> A hearty second on the Hakko 808.  Every builder needs one.  Slicker than 
>> wet sn*t on a door knob. 
>> 
>> K9ZTV
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K9JRI : KX3 Knob Removal

[Michael Blake]

The replacement of the KX3 front panel went quite smoothly.  The four knobs 
pulled straight off without incident.  Thanks for all of the hints but my 
concerns were unwarranted….  Happily :)

Very 73 - Mike - K9JRI




> On Feb 17, 2016, at 7:59 PM, Craig K3 Support  wrote:
> 
> Hi Michael,
> 
> If you are not able to remove the knobs with your fingers, you can use a 
> small flat blade screwdriver to pry them away from the front panel by using 
> the bottom edge for leverage. 
> 
> We would certainly place a thin piece of card board under the screwdriver 
> shaft to protect the front panel surface while prying.
> 
> 73,
> -- 
> --
> Craig Smith W6WL
> Elecraft Customer Support
> 831-763-4211 x 174
> --
> 
> On 2/17/2016 4:48 PM, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Eric 
>> /elecraft.com/ 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>  Forwarded Message  
>> Subject: [Elecraft] KX3 Knob Removal 
>> Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2016 17:52:00 -0500 
>> From: Michael Blake   
>> To: Elecraft Reflector  
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Is there a process or tool for removing the four push on knobs on the front 
>> panel of the KX3 without damaging the knob or panel? 
>> 
>> Michael Blake 
>> k9...@mac.com  
>> 
>> 
>> 
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>>  
>> Message delivered to eric.swa...@elecraft.com 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] Power SUpply

[Howard Hoyt]

Hi Greg,

We have hundreds of happy KX3s (and PX3s, etc...) being powered by our 
tiny Kx33 supply:


https://proaudioeng.com/products/pae-kx33-low-rfi-ac-power-supply/

Let me know if you have any questions.

Howie - WA4PSC



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500

[Kevin Stover]

I am a fan of Klitzing's designs.

I did a rough and fast add up of all the stuff needed to build one of 
his 1KW designs using assembled and tested boards.
I came up with right at $2K. That's just parts. No sheet metal, no 
fasteners, no wire, no fans, NO 50V - 40A switching power supply. You 
won't be running it on 120V and it won't fit in a K3 case.


The LPF he uses could be improved. He uses a 5 pole Chebishev with SMT 
Mica caps.
I'd use the 5 pole Cauer from the SSPA project in the 2012 Handbook, 
sized for 1.5KW. It uses ceramic SMT caps (more expensive but worth it 
for a clean amp). Using the Cauer design means tuning the LPF with a 
network analyzer to place the nulls on top of the odd order harmonics.


Someone has commissioned Jim to build a 2KW version of his 160-6m SSPA. 
Basically two of his 1KW amps throttled back to 750W, in one box with a 
high power splitter/combiner. The power supply jumps to 50V, 60A and it 
still won't fit in a K3 case. The two 10"x10"x4" aluminum heat sinks 
weigh 10 pounds combined. It will not be a quiet amp but might actually 
do full power RTTY all day.



On 2/20/2016 1:22 PM, Edward R Cole wrote:
Well reading Wayne's response maybe one should look elsewhere for a 
kilowatt or more HF linear.  I particular I would suggest looking at 
the LDMOS amp kits and assembled amps recently available (e.g. W6PQL)

http://www.w6pql.com/1_kw_sspa_for_1_8-54_mhz.htm

I have built some of his 2m amp and his 23cm amp kits.  Really have to 
wonder where the ham "build-it" spirit has gone?  But Jim will build 
on contract if you got the money (which apparently there are quite few 
that do).


Maybe someday I will have Jim build the amp pallets for me to 
incorporate into a full amp of my own design.  He really offers a lot 
of subassemblies which one can combine.


73, Ed - KL7UW





--
R. Kevin Stover
AC0H
ARRL
FISTS #11993
SKCC #215
NAQCC #3441


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Re: [Elecraft] KRx3a Install

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Sorry it's "scary" installing the KRX3. It is less than reassuring not to be
able to see exactly what the connectors are doing, but it does work - as you
found out. 

To your comment, if you have Rev H of the manual, that step is immediately
before Figure 47 on page 43. Figure 47 it identifies the length of the cable
as 5" (13 cm) for the  J5->J82 cable and 10" (25 cm) for the J84 -> J85
cable.

So that 5" cable was originally scheduled for the J5->J82 run. The left over
cable should have been the 12" (30 cm) cable that would run between J92 and
the KAT3 ATU. It was installed as described on pages 28 and 19 "Installing
the Auxiliary KRX3A Antenna Input via the KAT3A". 

Yes, the current firmware (5.38) displays KRX3 instead of KRX3A. I thought
that was being changed, but apparently not. I'll make a note of that in the
manual for others. Thanks for noting it. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Novas
Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2016 1:16 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KRx3a Install

Today I installed a KRX3A in a K3S.  Not my favorite day.  On the plus side,
I plugged the K3S in and everything seems to be working. Big grin!  On the
negative side.

 

1.  I do not believe there is anywhere described installing the TMP
cable between KREF3 J5 and KRX3A J82, other than in Figure 47. I didn't know
which length TMP cable to use, so I used a 10" one.

2.  I have a 5" TMP cable left over (I chose to go the Aux Antenna BNC
Connector route).  Is this expected?

3.  I hate the way the KRX3A has to be blindly inserted onto the
input/output connectors.  I guess I got it right.

4.  The config menu says that a KRX3 is installed (not a KRX3A). Is that
ok? (latest firmware all around).

 

All in all, a harrowing 4 hour experience I don't want to repeat. Hopefully
the results will be worth it!

 

 

 

Bob, W3DK

 

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[Elecraft] Batteries for NPOTA Activation with KX3

[Mark Tosiello]

Hi,

I'm planning an NPOTA activation using my KX3 on SSB and CW, running max
output without an amplifier. My antenna will be an inverted V at 30', and
I'd like recommendations for a battery technology and brand, assuming I
don't use the internal batteries (I think I would rather not).

I'm looking for something that will work with a KX3 as well as an IC-706
MKIIG. Ideally, I'd like to get several hours out of it if possible, but I
do know that that's hard to say based on number of contacts and SSB/CW.

What's the best method of making a connection from said batteries to the
KX3? I suppose powerpoles to the standard KX3 connector would be idieal

Anyway, thanks so much!

Mark KD8EDC
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Re: [Elecraft] K3/K3S 10W models with KXPA100

[Brendon Whateley]

Ron,

Would it be possible to put some sort of RF detector between the rig and
the amp to trigger the KEY line? That would seem to be a relatively simple
DIY project if need be.

- Brendon
KK6AYI

On Sat, Feb 20, 2016 at 12:15 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire  wrote:

> I was just informed by the design engineer that it does NOT sense RF to
> transmit, so you need to provide a way to ground the KEY line input to the
> KXPA100 to transmit.
>
> My apologies.
>
> 73, Ron AC7AC
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ron
> D'Eau Claire
> Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2016 11:20 AM
> To: 'lstavenhagen'; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3/K3S 10W models with KXPA100
>
> It works very well with just about any QRP rig. Complete instructions for
> use with rigs other than the KX3 are included in the Owner's manual,
> available from the Elecraft web site here:
>
>
> http://www.elecraft.com/manual/E740199%20KXPA100%20Owner's%20Manual%20Rev%20
> A5.pdf
>
> It will work well even with QRP rigs that do not have a key line to enable
> the amp. The amp will sense the presence of RF drive and switch to transmit
> automatically.
>
> 73, Ron AC7AC
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
> lstavenhagen
> Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2016 6:25 AM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] K3/K3S 10W models with KXPA100
>
> Hi all,
> May be a bit silly of a question, but how well does the KXPA 100 work with
> the K3 or K3S 10W model? Reason I ask is I now have 3 10W rigs (K3, K3S and
> a K2) and may be building a 4th soon (another K2/10). And in the very rare
> event when do go QRO, it would probably be cheaper to just get one 100W amp
> to use with them all than 4 100W amp modules for each.
>
> So my idea is a KXPA100 for my QRO ops with each one. So just curious how
> well this amp works with the K3 and K3S? I would imagine it'd be similar to
> using it with the K2 or ?
>
> Thanks,
> LS
> W5QD
>
>
>
> --
> View this message in context:
>
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-K3S-10W-models-with-KXPA100-tp761436
> 4.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] K3 For Sale

[Richard Thorne]

I have the following K3-100F (not S) for sale.

Serial # 8233 with the following features:
Main Receiver has the following 8 Pole Filters: 6, 2.8,1.8,.400,.250
KRX3-F Sub Receiver with the following 8 pole Filters: 2.8, .400
KDVR3-F Digital Voice Recorder
KXV3B-F RX Ant., 2nd Pre-Amp, IF Out and Xverter Interface
KSYN3AUPG - 2 each upgraded at the factory

$2950 Shipped/Insured

Also have a P3 available. Prefer to sell together or rig first.

Paypal ok but will need to add 2.9% for fees. We can discuss other forms 
of payment as needed.


Rich - N5ZC
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[Elecraft] KRx3a Install

[Bob Novas]

Today I installed a KRX3A in a K3S.  Not my favorite day.  On the plus side,
I plugged the K3S in and everything seems to be working. Big grin!  On the
negative side.

 

1.  I do not believe there is anywhere described installing the TMP
cable between KREF3 J5 and KRX3A J82, other than in Figure 47. I didn't know
which length TMP cable to use, so I used a 10" one.

2.  I have a 5" TMP cable left over (I chose to go the Aux Antenna BNC
Connector route).  Is this expected?

3.  I hate the way the KRX3A has to be blindly inserted onto the
input/output connectors.  I guess I got it right.

4.  The config menu says that a KRX3 is installed (not a KRX3A). Is that
ok? (latest firmware all around).

 

All in all, a harrowing 4 hour experience I don't want to repeat. Hopefully
the results will be worth it!

 

 

 

Bob, W3DK

 

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Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering

[Steve]

The Hakko 808 also makes a GREAT magnet wire enamel stripping and lead tinning 
tool!  

73,
Steve
aa8af

> On Feb 20, 2016, at 11:27 AM, K9ZTV  wrote:
> 
> A hearty second on the Hakko 808.  Every builder needs one.  Slicker than wet 
> sn*t on a door knob. 
> 
> K9ZTV
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3/K3S 10W models with KXPA100

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

I was just informed by the design engineer that it does NOT sense RF to
transmit, so you need to provide a way to ground the KEY line input to the
KXPA100 to transmit.

My apologies. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ron
D'Eau Claire
Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2016 11:20 AM
To: 'lstavenhagen'; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3/K3S 10W models with KXPA100

It works very well with just about any QRP rig. Complete instructions for
use with rigs other than the KX3 are included in the Owner's manual,
available from the Elecraft web site here:

http://www.elecraft.com/manual/E740199%20KXPA100%20Owner's%20Manual%20Rev%20
A5.pdf

It will work well even with QRP rigs that do not have a key line to enable
the amp. The amp will sense the presence of RF drive and switch to transmit
automatically. 

73, Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
lstavenhagen
Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2016 6:25 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3/K3S 10W models with KXPA100

Hi all,
May be a bit silly of a question, but how well does the KXPA 100 work with
the K3 or K3S 10W model? Reason I ask is I now have 3 10W rigs (K3, K3S and
a K2) and may be building a 4th soon (another K2/10). And in the very rare
event when do go QRO, it would probably be cheaper to just get one 100W amp
to use with them all than 4 100W amp modules for each.

So my idea is a KXPA100 for my QRO ops with each one. So just curious how
well this amp works with the K3 and K3S? I would imagine it'd be similar to
using it with the K2 or ?

Thanks,
LS
W5QD



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http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-K3S-10W-models-with-KXPA100-tp761436
4.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering

[Edward R Cole]

Mark,

I have not built a K1 so do not know how it is designed.  If you are 
wanting to remove surface-mount components the simple method is to 
first wick excess solder away and then use two solder irons on either 
end of the device to unsolder and lift the component.


If this thru-hole construction then resistors and capacitors should 
not be too difficult to unsolder each lead at a time.  Removing 
leaded transistors can be tough.  Sometimes one has to just clip the 
leads and remove the transistor and then remove each lead remnant 
individually with a solder iron.  The transistor is usually junk if 
you do that.  A solder-sucker is handy with small leaded devices.


High power transistors with large metal "ears" can be a 
challenge.  One needs a high power solder iron with large tip.  Heat 
and remove solder with wick then use knife edge to lift a lead while 
heating with solder iron.  Once enough is lifted a flat screwdriver 
can help lift the rest.  Caution that applying heat too long can 
cause high power transistor failure.


All this is a good reason to double-check installation in the first 
place.  But have been there and done it.


73, Ed - KL7UW

From: Mark Petrovic 
To: elecr...@qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Unsoldering


I'm assembling an Elecraft K1, and get the distinct feeling that
unsoldering really is the last thing you want to be involved in.  I
have solder wick that has embedded flux, and I have a solder sucker
that seems huge compared to the size of the features I'm dealing with.
The wick works ok at getting some of the solder out, but not all of
it.  And a little bit of residual solder is still a major physical
blocker to correcting a misplaced component or bad joint.

I feel like I'm a pretty good solder-er, but I have not had good luck
with unsoldering.  Is it just me or does everyone have this problem?

Thanks.
Mark
AE6RT



73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500

[Edward R Cole]

Well reading Wayne's response maybe one should look elsewhere for a 
kilowatt or more HF linear.  I particular I would suggest looking at 
the LDMOS amp kits and assembled amps recently available (e.g. W6PQL)

http://www.w6pql.com/1_kw_sspa_for_1_8-54_mhz.htm

I have built some of his 2m amp and his 23cm amp kits.  Really have 
to wonder where the ham "build-it" spirit has gone?  But Jim will 
build on contract if you got the money (which apparently there are 
quite few that do).


Maybe someday I will have Jim build the amp pallets for me to 
incorporate into a full amp of my own design.  He really offers a lot 
of subassemblies which one can combine.


73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] K3/K3S 10W models with KXPA100

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

It works very well with just about any QRP rig. Complete instructions for
use with rigs other than the KX3 are included in the Owner's manual,
available from the Elecraft web site here:

http://www.elecraft.com/manual/E740199%20KXPA100%20Owner's%20Manual%20Rev%20
A5.pdf

It will work well even with QRP rigs that do not have a key line to enable
the amp. The amp will sense the presence of RF drive and switch to transmit
automatically. 

73, Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
lstavenhagen
Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2016 6:25 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3/K3S 10W models with KXPA100

Hi all,
May be a bit silly of a question, but how well does the KXPA 100 work with
the K3 or K3S 10W model? Reason I ask is I now have 3 10W rigs (K3, K3S and
a K2) and may be building a 4th soon (another K2/10). And in the very rare
event when do go QRO, it would probably be cheaper to just get one 100W amp
to use with them all than 4 100W amp modules for each.

So my idea is a KXPA100 for my QRO ops with each one. So just curious how
well this amp works with the K3 and K3S? I would imagine it'd be similar to
using it with the K2 or ?

Thanks,
LS
W5QD



--
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http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-K3S-10W-models-with-KXPA100-tp761436
4.html
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[Elecraft] Elecraft Amplifiers and KPA 1500!!!!

[Doug Turnbull]

Dear OMs and YLs,
 As we are allowed to run 1500W for contesting in EI, I am fortunate in
old age to own an SPE Expert 2kFA, Acom 1000 and Acom 2000A.   They all have
advantages and drawbacks.   Acom and SPE both build to a high standard and
in my experience are most reliable.   The Acom 1000 is perhaps the very best
buy in a non-automatic self tune vacuum tube amp.   The Acom 2000A is a
beautiful auto-tune and runs quietly but waiting for it to warm up takes a
long time!   

 The SPE Expert 2KFA is solid state and instant on.   It is a great
except for two things:
1)This is a very noisy amplifier and I wonder if this is not a problem with
most solid state amps.   Cooling is critical to keep junction temperatures
down.   The noise problem remains even if running on the 600 Watt power
level at the 400 Watts allowed in EI for non contest QSOs.   I can not
operate with the SPE unless wearing headphones preferably ones with good
noise rejection.

2) If one runs the SPE 2kFA without the built in automatic ATU then even
with an SWR of around 1.5/1.6 you will create terrible distortion on either
SSB or CW.   This distortion will quickly make you unpopular on the bands.
One must be careful of this.   Dropping the power level does not seem to
solve this problem.   Of course it has a good internal automatic tuner which
works wonderfully so if you use the tuner there is no problem.   A multiband
antenna which did not require a tuner normally but did on one band could
prove slightly problematic.   You would need to change it over to another of
the six antenna output connectors and use the built in auto-tuner.

 I must say something else in favour of the SPE it does not excessively
heat the room while having the Acom 2000A in use is like having Wayne's
daughter's electric heater on.  The SPE is definitely more efficient when it
comes to power consumption.

I am an almost fanatical Elecraft user but do not own a KPA500 as I saw
no point.   A KPA 1500 would certainly interest me but I wonder if it would
not be priced at too high a level for my pocket.   Alphas do not appear to
be overpriced but these days have a poor reputation in Europe.  This
surprises me but is the case.   I have at times seriously considered Alpha
and backed off because of the advice of friends whose opinion I value.

Ameritron amps also get bad press but seem to do the job for relatively
little money.   I have a friend with an old Ameritron who is still very fond
of it and would not part even though he now also owns an Acom 1010.   So the
lower cost alternative continues to fill a need.

My friends with KPA 500 amplifiers are all fond of them and have nothing
negative to say though I am told on air by some others that the KPA 500 is
not so quiet.   However the EI Elecraft guru EI6IZ says that the KPA 500 is
quiet.   Not having used one I can not say.   No one seems to be selling
their KPA 500.   Some of us really want it to be as quiet as a library.

Before you purchase an amplifier try using one of visit a ham with one.
Consider noise, turn on time, distortion, reliability, band coverage, power
efficiency and your pocket book.   If you are an old goat like me with a
fragile back think of weight as well.   The KPA 1300 looks good for
DXpeditions as of course does the KPA 500 which has been so popular of late.

Elecraft is first class in all respects.   Design, service and support
are just unbeatable.We are fortunate that they exist and have brought
higher standards to our hobby.   I suppose a KPA 1500 would have me
drooling.

73 Doug EI2CN  

 

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
j...@kk9a.com
Sent: 20 February 2016 18:02
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500

It would likely cost over $10,000 like the Ohio based Dishtronix Prometheus
and I do hear of many stations using them. Solid State amps typically do not
handle high SWR well so if produced a KAT-1500 would be nice accessory. I am
happy with my KPA-500/KAT-500 and the rest is an unlikely dream.

John KK9A

>From Greg n4cc at windstream.net
Sat Feb 20 12:24:29 EST 2016
Previous message (by thread): [Elecraft] KPA1500

Everything you say about Elecraft is speculation, Ken.  You don't know what
it would cost them to produce the amp.  My speculation is that they could do
a better job than SPE -- if they chose to do it.  How many would they sell?
Who knows?  The ham population is growing older fast and a lot of us old
codgers can "afford" a new amp of that caliber.  I have nothing against
Ameritron amps...happen to own one myself...in addition to three Alphas and
the KPA500 -- so no I don't "need" a KPA1500.  But I would buy one just
because I know the integration with the K3 and quality that would go into it
would be fantastic -- not to mention that it would be from an American
manufacturer with the best service in the industry.  Furthermore, Elecraft
is 

Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering

[Don Wilhelm]

Chip-Quik is great stuff for multi-leaded SMD components.
I don't use it on SMD components that have a small number of leads. 
Those with 2 leads, I heat the leads alternately until the component has 
absorbed enough heat to allow it to literally float off the pads.
Those components with leads formed so I can get a *very* thin knife 
blade tip under the lead, I can start at one end and heat the pad until 
the tip of my knife can lift the lead off the pad.   Note that I have 
sharpened my pocket knife for many years and the blade has a tip which 
is more slender than the most narrow Exacto knife.


If those techniques will not work, I use Chip-Quik.  The only downside 
to Chip-Quik is that *all* the Chip-Quik residue and special flux must 
be cleaned up or the new solder will not stick.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/20/2016 12:50 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:

I really should update the Desoldering Primer to mention Chip-Quik. I've used 
it to remove 100-pin TQFPs with no damage to the parts or the PCB. It's really 
cool stuff.

Wayne
N6KR


On Feb 20, 2016, at 9:36 AM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft  
wrote:


And as a last resort, cut the leads and then clean out the bad parts and leads. 
 Even the best rework gal will not try to save a multi-leaded part.  Too much 
risk of damage to the PCB.

Mel, K6KBE



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500

[john]

It would likely cost over $10,000 like the Ohio based Dishtronix Prometheus
and I do hear of many stations using them. Solid State amps typically do not
handle high SWR well so if produced a KAT-1500 would be nice accessory. I am
happy with my KPA-500/KAT-500 and the rest is an unlikely dream.

John KK9A

>From Greg n4cc at windstream.net
Sat Feb 20 12:24:29 EST 2016
Previous message (by thread): [Elecraft] KPA1500

Everything you say about Elecraft is speculation, Ken.  You don't know what
it would cost them to produce the amp.  My speculation is that they could do
a better job than SPE -- if they chose to do it.  How many would they sell?
Who knows?  The ham population is growing older fast and a lot of us old
codgers can "afford" a new amp of that caliber.  I have nothing against
Ameritron amps...happen to own one myself...in addition to three Alphas and
the KPA500 -- so no I don't "need" a KPA1500.  But I would buy one just
because I know the integration with the K3 and quality that would go into it
would be fantastic -- not to mention that it would be from an American
manufacturer with the best service in the industry.  Furthermore, Elecraft
is competing quite successfully against competition so I disagree that they
would be "killed" by the amp competition.  Alpha used to be the "Cadillac"
but the company has deteriorated significantly.  Acom and OM Power represent
competition but neither one has a full bore solid state 1500 watt amp with
headroom...Ameritron is OK but not the same craftsmanship or quality of
Elecraft.

My original question to Wayne or Eric was how many people putting money down
would it take for Elecraft to produce such an amp.  It's strictly a business
decision that only they can make.  All the speculation in the world on this
reflector is not worth the email it is printed on...

73, Greg-N4CC

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Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Having done a lot of component level repairs in the field (sitting on the
deck of a ship usually) I was often limited to solder wick or, at best, a
spring loaded sucker and my butane powered soldering iron. 

I quickly learned that wick works 1000% better if it's dipped in some liquid
rosin solder just before use to augment the "internal" flux. So prepared
it's often much faster and cleaner than the sucker. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Kevin
Stover
Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2016 7:21 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering

I thought the same thing when I built my K2/100.
As big as the solder sucker looks it does work. I had much more luck with it
compared to the solder braid.
Keep the soldering iron on the pad in question to keep the solder liquid
than stick the solder sucker on the other side of the pad from the iron and
hit the button.


On 2/20/2016 9:11 AM, Mark Petrovic wrote:
> I'm assembling an Elecraft K1, and get the distinct feeling that 
> unsoldering really is the last thing you want to be involved in.  I 
> have solder wick that has embedded flux, and I have a solder sucker 
> that seems huge compared to the size of the features I'm dealing with.
> The wick works ok at getting some of the solder out, but not all of 
> it.  And a little bit of residual solder is still a major physical 
> blocker to correcting a misplaced component or bad joint.
>
> I feel like I'm a pretty good solder-er, but I have not had good luck 
> with unsoldering.  Is it just me or does everyone have this problem?
>
> Thanks.
> Mark
> AE6RT
>


--
R. Kevin Stover
AC0H
ARRL
FISTS #11993
SKCC #215
NAQCC #3441


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Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering

[Botterell Art]

Chip-Quik looks very handy.  Quite clever.  Thanks for the pointer, Wayne!

73,

Art KD6O

> On Feb 20, 2016, at 09:50, Wayne Burdick  wrote:
> 
> I really should update the Desoldering Primer to mention Chip-Quik. I've used 
> it to remove 100-pin TQFPs with no damage to the parts or the PCB. It's 
> really cool stuff.
> 
> Wayne
> N6KR


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Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering

[Don Wilhelm]

While unsoldering is not something you purposely wish to do, it 
sometimes is inevitable.
When you are faced with that necessity, remember that the most valuable 
part is the board - avoid damage to the board at all costs.
Elecraft boards are constructed with thru-plated holes, so be careful 
that the solder pad on both sides of the board is preserved - DO NOT 
drill out the holes.  Those thru-plated holes are often used not only to 
solder the component lead, but also to continue the circuit from one 
side of the board to the other, so preserving the thru-plated hole and 
solder pads is important.


If you do not have de-soldering tools to accomplish the task, or you 
have tried what you have and it was not successful, forget about 
salvaging the part.  New parts are inexpensive compared with the 
investment in the board and the other mounted parts.  *Sacrifice* the part.


For two (and sometimes 3) lead components, you can heat each lead 
alternately while slowly working the part out of the holes in the board.
For multi-legged critters, use flush cutters and clip the lead as close 
to the body as possible, then heat each of the remaining leads and 
remove them one at a time.  For relays and other parts that cover the 
leads on the component side, use pliers or whatever tool works and crush 
the body of the component so you can remove the leads one at a time.


Once you have removed the leads, clean up the remaining solder with 
solder wick.  If additional solder remains in the hole, use a wooden 
toothpick (or a stainless steel needle), heat the solder pad and push 
the remaining solder out of the hole - task accomplished.


Even though I have a Hakko 808 which is usually successful for removing 
the solder and the part intact, there are times I resort the destroying 
the part and cleaning up the holes with a stainless steel probe that I 
keep handy.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/20/2016 10:11 AM, Mark Petrovic wrote:

I'm assembling an Elecraft K1, and get the distinct feeling that
unsoldering really is the last thing you want to be involved in.  I
have solder wick that has embedded flux, and I have a solder sucker
that seems huge compared to the size of the features I'm dealing with.
The wick works ok at getting some of the solder out, but not all of
it.  And a little bit of residual solder is still a major physical
blocker to correcting a misplaced component or bad joint.

I feel like I'm a pretty good solder-er, but I have not had good luck
with unsoldering.  Is it just me or does everyone have this problem?



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Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering

[Wayne Burdick]

I really should update the Desoldering Primer to mention Chip-Quik. I've used 
it to remove 100-pin TQFPs with no damage to the parts or the PCB. It's really 
cool stuff.

Wayne
N6KR


On Feb 20, 2016, at 9:36 AM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft  
wrote:

> And as a last resort, cut the leads and then clean out the bad parts and 
> leads.  Even the best rework gal will not try to save a multi-leaded part.  
> Too much risk of damage to the PCB.  
> 
> Mel, K6KBE



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Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering

[EricJ]

I use Wayne's techniques, and usually in that order. Surrender is not an 
option.


Then I remember a trick I've known since my first encounter with PCs and 
solder wick. Reflow the joint with fresh solder. Wick that away. It 
usually leaves a nice clean hole. Sometimes, I reflow the joint more 
than once being careful not to overheat the area.


 If it isn't clean enough to insert the new component, use a stainless 
steel needle to gently poke through the hole. Don't forget there may be 
a delicate via that will come out with too much force.


I use an upholstery needle that is about 10" long. It keeps your fingers 
out of the way so you can see what you're doing. And it doesn't get lost 
on the bench as easily as small needles. To aid that, I slipped a piece 
of flourescent lime parachute cord over the non-business end to make it 
look more like a tool with a handle.


Eric
KE6US

On 2/20/2016 9:01 AM, Wayne Burdick wrote:

For further tips, some of which are not described in the literature, see:

 http://www.qsotoday.com/n6kr-desolder-primer.html

Wayne
N6KR



...[I] get the distinct feeling that
unsoldering really is the last thing you want to be involved in


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Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering

[Reuben Popp]

Hah!  Needless to say that beer consumed is beer not wasted, yes?  Unless,
that is, it's something like Hamms (Schlitz lovers I'm looking your way
too), at which point it can hardly be considered beer, right?

Those other tips are a hoot.  I know for one in working on really old stuff
there's been times where a blob of solder would sit there and taunt me (or
my iron) more or less.  Talk about infuriating.  It's all fun and games
until the American Beauty has to come out.  I would hate to "test" one of
those suckers on my skin.  Yeee-ouch!

On Sat, Feb 20, 2016 at 11:28 AM, Ron D'Eau Claire  wrote:

> Ha, ha!!! But the beer was NOT wasted. It was the one sure-fire benefit of
> the exercise.
>
> Removing parts with a solder sucker, especially those with multiple "leads"
> (some as many as ten) without destroying either the board or part I find
> it's common for a very thin layer of solder to remain after "sucking" the
> hole clean. The remaining film of solder is easily broken by wiggling the
> part.
>
> 73, Ron AC7AC
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
> Wayne
> Burdick
> Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2016 9:01 AM
> To: Reuben Popp; Mark Petrovic
> Cc: elecr...@qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering
>
> For further tips, some of which are not described in the literature, see:
>
> http://www.qsotoday.com/n6kr-desolder-primer.html
>
> Wayne
> N6KR
>
>
> >> ...[I] get the distinct feeling that
> >> unsoldering really is the last thing you want to be involved in
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering

[Mel Farrer via Elecraft]

And as a last resort, cut the leads and then clean out the bad parts and leads. 
 Even the best rework gal will not try to save a multi-leaded part.  Too much 
risk of damage to the PCB.  

Mel, K6KBE


  From: Ron D'Eau Claire 
 To: elecr...@qth.net 
 Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2016 9:28 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering
   
Ha, ha!!! But the beer was NOT wasted. It was the one sure-fire benefit of
the exercise. 

Removing parts with a solder sucker, especially those with multiple "leads"
(some as many as ten) without destroying either the board or part I find
it's common for a very thin layer of solder to remain after "sucking" the
hole clean. The remaining film of solder is easily broken by wiggling the
part.

73, Ron AC7AC 

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Wayne
Burdick
Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2016 9:01 AM
To: Reuben Popp; Mark Petrovic
Cc: elecr...@qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering

For further tips, some of which are not described in the literature, see:

    http://www.qsotoday.com/n6kr-desolder-primer.html

Wayne
N6KR


>> ...[I] get the distinct feeling that
>> unsoldering really is the last thing you want to be involved in


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Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Ha, ha!!! But the beer was NOT wasted. It was the one sure-fire benefit of
the exercise. 

Removing parts with a solder sucker, especially those with multiple "leads"
(some as many as ten) without destroying either the board or part I find
it's common for a very thin layer of solder to remain after "sucking" the
hole clean. The remaining film of solder is easily broken by wiggling the
part.

73, Ron AC7AC 

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Wayne
Burdick
Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2016 9:01 AM
To: Reuben Popp; Mark Petrovic
Cc: elecr...@qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering

For further tips, some of which are not described in the literature, see:

http://www.qsotoday.com/n6kr-desolder-primer.html

Wayne
N6KR


>> ...[I] get the distinct feeling that
>> unsoldering really is the last thing you want to be involved in


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500

[Greg]

Everything you say about Elecraft is speculation, Ken.  You don't know what
it would cost them to produce the amp.  My speculation is that they could do
a better job than SPE -- if they chose to do it.  How many would they sell?
Who knows?  The ham population is growing older fast and a lot of us old
codgers can "afford" a new amp of that caliber.  I have nothing against
Ameritron amps...happen to own one myself...in addition to three Alphas and
the KPA500 -- so no I don't "need" a KPA1500.  But I would buy one just
because I know the integration with the K3 and quality that would go into it
would be fantastic -- not to mention that it would be from an American
manufacturer with the best service in the industry.  Furthermore, Elecraft
is competing quite successfully against competition so I disagree that they
would be "killed" by the amp competition.  Alpha used to be the "Cadillac"
but the company has deteriorated significantly.  Acom and OM Power represent
competition but neither one has a full bore solid state 1500 watt amp with
headroom...Ameritron is OK but not the same craftsmanship or quality of
Elecraft.

My original question to Wayne or Eric was how many people putting money down
would it take for Elecraft to produce such an amp.  It's strictly a business
decision that only they can make.  All the speculation in the world on this
reflector is not worth the email it is printed on...

73, Greg-N4CC

Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2016 08:59:35 -0600
From: Kevin Stover 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 142, Issue 38
Message-ID: <56c87f57.6020...@mediacombb.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed

Apparently the principals at Elecraft have decided, quite some time ago, 
not to offer a 1500W amp.
If you want an SSPA that will do 1.5K spend the $8K for the SPE 2KFA.
If you think Elecraft can produce an amp of that caliber for less than 
$8K I've got some lakefront property for sale.

There simply aren't enough hams ready, willing and able to spend that 
kind of money to make it economically viable.

They'll get killed by the amp competition. As soon as all the fan boys 
with money are exhausted the market will dry up.
$8K+ for an Elecraft SSPA or less than half that for an Ameritron 
AL-1500...and before you go down the "Ameritron is  crap" road... a 
bunch of real famous contesters use the AL-1500 and win with it.


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Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering

[Wayne Burdick]

For further tips, some of which are not described in the literature, see:

http://www.qsotoday.com/n6kr-desolder-primer.html

Wayne
N6KR


>> ...[I] get the distinct feeling that
>> unsoldering really is the last thing you want to be involved in


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Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering

[Reuben Popp]

I too was overly careful when I built my K2 back around 2006 or so.  That's
not to say I didn't make mistakes :D.   I did, however, take some advice to
heart when assembling it (I believe it came from the website or the
manual), in that for a section, I would add all the components, bending
their leads to stay in place and then come back to solder after checking
things again.  As to whether this helped prevent mistakes, I can't really
say for certain, but I will say I was lucky enough to not experience many
issues with my build.  Anyway, I digress...

I was lucky enough at the time to inherit a Pace desoldering unit (a
MBT-100 in fact) that came from the old circuits course at the local
college.  For through-hole type projects, those things are a godsend.  I
still have it too, having just replaced the handset along with acquiring a
handful of new tips.  If you have it in the budget (and plan on doing more
kits), I highly recommend keeping an eye out for one.  They're discontinued
now from Pace, but there's still plenty out there with lots of life left in
them and parts are available if you look.

That said, I think I used that thing more than not as my "skill" with wick
has only really come to fruition in recent times.

Good luck
Reuben

On Sat, Feb 20, 2016 at 9:11 AM, Mark Petrovic  wrote:

> I'm assembling an Elecraft K1, and get the distinct feeling that
> unsoldering really is the last thing you want to be involved in.  I
> have solder wick that has embedded flux, and I have a solder sucker
> that seems huge compared to the size of the features I'm dealing with.
> The wick works ok at getting some of the solder out, but not all of
> it.  And a little bit of residual solder is still a major physical
> blocker to correcting a misplaced component or bad joint.
>
> I feel like I'm a pretty good solder-er, but I have not had good luck
> with unsoldering.  Is it just me or does everyone have this problem?
>
> Thanks.
> Mark
> AE6RT
>
> --
> Mark
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Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering

[K9ZTV]

A hearty second on the Hakko 808.  Every builder needs one.  Slicker than wet 
sn*t on a door knob. 

K9ZTV


> On Feb 20, 2016, at 10:16 AM, Chip Stratton  wrote:
> 
> Using solder wicks and cheap solder suckers is tough. After I got a Hakko
> 808 desoldering kit, a world of difference, made removing soldered
> components and making sure the pcb board hole was open for the replacement
> almost trivial. I know, they are expensive. Maybe you could borrow one if
> you aren't frequently doing that kind of stuff.
> 
> Chip
> AE5KA
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[Elecraft] Unsoldering

[Dauer, Edward]

Same here, on the K2 (and related accessories.)  The spring-loaded solder 
sucker worked FB for me, used just as Kevin describes.  On a couple of 
occasions I had to do it from both sides of the board to get everything 
clean.  I also found it the case that shouting a familiar four-letter 
expletive immediately upon realizing that the error had been made was 
strongly associated with success in doing the fix.  There is no 
theoretical reason why that should be so, but the correlation is 
empirically perfect.

Ted, KN1CBR


>--
>
>Message: 24
>Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2016 09:21:20 -0600
>From: Kevin Stover 
>To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering
>Message-ID: <56c88470.3050...@mediacombb.net>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed
>
>I thought the same thing when I built my K2/100.
>As big as the solder sucker looks it does work. I had much more luck 
>with it compared to the solder braid.
>Keep the soldering iron on the pad in question to keep the solder liquid 
>than stick the solder sucker on the other side of the pad from the iron 
>and hit the button.
>
>
>On 2/20/2016 9:11 AM, Mark Petrovic wrote:
>> I'm assembling an Elecraft K1, and get the distinct feeling that
>> unsoldering really is the last thing you want to be involved in.  I
>> have solder wick that has embedded flux, and I have a solder sucker
>> that seems huge compared to the size of the features I'm dealing with.
>> The wick works ok at getting some of the solder out, but not all of
>> it.  And a little bit of residual solder is still a major physical
>> blocker to correcting a misplaced component or bad joint.
>>
>> I feel like I'm a pretty good solder-er, but I have not had good luck
>> with unsoldering.  Is it just me or does everyone have this problem?
>>
>> Thanks.
>> Mark
>> AE6RT
>>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering

[Chip Stratton]

Using solder wicks and cheap solder suckers is tough. After I got a Hakko
808 desoldering kit, a world of difference, made removing soldered
components and making sure the pcb board hole was open for the replacement
almost trivial. I know, they are expensive. Maybe you could borrow one if
you aren't frequently doing that kind of stuff.

Chip
AE5KA

On Sat, Feb 20, 2016 at 10:00 AM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft <
elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:

> Sorry, never built a K1.   Back in my hole.
> Mel, K6KBE
>
>
>   From: Kevin Stover 
>  To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>  Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2016 7:40 AM
>  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering
>
> He's building a K1 (no SMT parts) not a computer motherboard.
>
>
> On 2/20/2016 9:23 AM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft wrote:
> > I have been in the manufacturing process for a LONG time and the rework
> stations used in SMT parts is a state of art with custom equipment for the
> process,  Tips that are the exact size of the parts to heat up each end are
> necessary for all part sizes down to 02-01 package and all of the IC's with
> special square tips etc. Special soldering irons and vacuum rework
> stations.  Only simple rework should be attempted without the special tools
> required.  Sorry no easy answer.
> >
> > Mel, K6KBE
> >
> >
> >From: Mark Petrovic 
> >  To: elecr...@qth.net
> >  Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2016 7:11 AM
> >  Subject: [Elecraft] Unsoldering
> >
> > I'm assembling an Elecraft K1, and get the distinct feeling that
> > unsoldering really is the last thing you want to be involved in.  I
> > have solder wick that has embedded flux, and I have a solder sucker
> > that seems huge compared to the size of the features I'm dealing with.
> > The wick works ok at getting some of the solder out, but not all of
> > it.  And a little bit of residual solder is still a major physical
> > blocker to correcting a misplaced component or bad joint.
> >
> > I feel like I'm a pretty good solder-er, but I have not had good luck
> > with unsoldering.  Is it just me or does everyone have this problem?
> >
> > Thanks.
> > Mark
> > AE6RT
> >
>
>
> --
> R. Kevin Stover
> AC0H
> ARRL
> FISTS #11993
> SKCC #215
> NAQCC #3441
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering

[Mel Farrer via Elecraft]

Sorry, never built a K1.   Back in my hole.
Mel, K6KBE


  From: Kevin Stover 
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2016 7:40 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering
   
He's building a K1 (no SMT parts) not a computer motherboard.


On 2/20/2016 9:23 AM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft wrote:
> I have been in the manufacturing process for a LONG time and the rework 
> stations used in SMT parts is a state of art with custom equipment for the 
> process,  Tips that are the exact size of the parts to heat up each end are 
> necessary for all part sizes down to 02-01 package and all of the IC's with 
> special square tips etc. Special soldering irons and vacuum rework stations.  
> Only simple rework should be attempted without the special tools required.  
> Sorry no easy answer.
>
> Mel, K6KBE
>
>
>        From: Mark Petrovic 
>  To: elecr...@qth.net
>  Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2016 7:11 AM
>  Subject: [Elecraft] Unsoldering
>    
> I'm assembling an Elecraft K1, and get the distinct feeling that
> unsoldering really is the last thing you want to be involved in.  I
> have solder wick that has embedded flux, and I have a solder sucker
> that seems huge compared to the size of the features I'm dealing with.
> The wick works ok at getting some of the solder out, but not all of
> it.  And a little bit of residual solder is still a major physical
> blocker to correcting a misplaced component or bad joint.
>
> I feel like I'm a pretty good solder-er, but I have not had good luck
> with unsoldering.  Is it just me or does everyone have this problem?
>
> Thanks.
> Mark
> AE6RT
>


-- 
R. Kevin Stover
AC0H
ARRL
FISTS #11993
SKCC #215
NAQCC #3441


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Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering

[Kevin Stover]

He's building a K1 (no SMT parts) not a computer motherboard.


On 2/20/2016 9:23 AM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft wrote:

I have been in the manufacturing process for a LONG time and the rework 
stations used in SMT parts is a state of art with custom equipment for the 
process,  Tips that are the exact size of the parts to heat up each end are 
necessary for all part sizes down to 02-01 package and all of the IC's with 
special square tips etc. Special soldering irons and vacuum rework stations.   
Only simple rework should be attempted without the special tools required.  
Sorry no easy answer.

Mel, K6KBE


   From: Mark Petrovic 
  To: elecr...@qth.net
  Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2016 7:11 AM
  Subject: [Elecraft] Unsoldering

I'm assembling an Elecraft K1, and get the distinct feeling that

unsoldering really is the last thing you want to be involved in.  I
have solder wick that has embedded flux, and I have a solder sucker
that seems huge compared to the size of the features I'm dealing with.
The wick works ok at getting some of the solder out, but not all of
it.  And a little bit of residual solder is still a major physical
blocker to correcting a misplaced component or bad joint.

I feel like I'm a pretty good solder-er, but I have not had good luck
with unsoldering.  Is it just me or does everyone have this problem?

Thanks.
Mark
AE6RT




--
R. Kevin Stover
AC0H
ARRL
FISTS #11993
SKCC #215
NAQCC #3441


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Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering

[Myron Schaffer]

I think too that having a soldering iron with a large enough tip and therefore 
heat capacity to transfer heat to the joint as quickly as possible is 
advantageous. Many times I have grabbed the giant Weller gun to free the leads 
of the most stubborn components. Having a "Spudger" helps. (A Bell/AT tool 
with a metal hook).

Myron WVØH
Printed on Recycled Data

> On Feb 20, 2016, at 8:23 AM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft 
>  wrote:
> 
> I have been in the manufacturing process for a LONG time and the rework 
> stations used in SMT parts is a state of art with custom equipment for the 
> process,  Tips that are the exact size of the parts to heat up each end are 
> necessary for all part sizes down to 02-01 package and all of the IC's with 
> special square tips etc. Special soldering irons and vacuum rework stations.  
>  Only simple rework should be attempted without the special tools required.  
> Sorry no easy answer.  
> 
> Mel, K6KBE
> 
> 
>  From: Mark Petrovic 
> To: elecr...@qth.net 
> Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2016 7:11 AM
> Subject: [Elecraft] Unsoldering
> 
> I'm assembling an Elecraft K1, and get the distinct feeling that
> unsoldering really is the last thing you want to be involved in.  I
> have solder wick that has embedded flux, and I have a solder sucker
> that seems huge compared to the size of the features I'm dealing with.
> The wick works ok at getting some of the solder out, but not all of
> it.  And a little bit of residual solder is still a major physical
> blocker to correcting a misplaced component or bad joint.
> 
> I feel like I'm a pretty good solder-er, but I have not had good luck
> with unsoldering.  Is it just me or does everyone have this problem?
> 
> Thanks.
> Mark
> AE6RT
> 
> -- 
> Mark
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500

[Kevin Stover]

A legal limit SSPA doesn't come close to meeting that requirement.
They've sold a little more than 10,000 K3/K3s's since 2007. About 8,000 
KX3's in what... four years.

Less than 8,000 K2's of all flavors since 1999.
I'll bet they've sold less than 1,500 KPA500's.

On 2/20/2016 9:12 AM, Arie Kleingeld PA3A wrote:
I  that Elecraft needs a new very good product that will sell 
at least 10.000 pieces in the next 3 or 4 years.
If not a PA, what product would that be? That would be a logical 
strategy.


(My two cents worth or maybe even less.)

73
Arie PA3A

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R. Kevin Stover
AC0H
ARRL
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SKCC #215
NAQCC #3441


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Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering

[Mel Farrer via Elecraft]

I have been in the manufacturing process for a LONG time and the rework 
stations used in SMT parts is a state of art with custom equipment for the 
process,  Tips that are the exact size of the parts to heat up each end are 
necessary for all part sizes down to 02-01 package and all of the IC's with 
special square tips etc. Special soldering irons and vacuum rework stations.   
Only simple rework should be attempted without the special tools required.  
Sorry no easy answer.  

Mel, K6KBE


  From: Mark Petrovic 
 To: elecr...@qth.net 
 Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2016 7:11 AM
 Subject: [Elecraft] Unsoldering
   
I'm assembling an Elecraft K1, and get the distinct feeling that
unsoldering really is the last thing you want to be involved in.  I
have solder wick that has embedded flux, and I have a solder sucker
that seems huge compared to the size of the features I'm dealing with.
The wick works ok at getting some of the solder out, but not all of
it.  And a little bit of residual solder is still a major physical
blocker to correcting a misplaced component or bad joint.

I feel like I'm a pretty good solder-er, but I have not had good luck
with unsoldering.  Is it just me or does everyone have this problem?

Thanks.
Mark
AE6RT

-- 
Mark
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Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering

[lstavenhagen]

Yes :). When I built my K2, I was just simply so careful that I didn't have
to ever try to unsolder anything in it. I only had solder wick on hand and
no solder sucker, but even with that, I absolutely dreaded the thought.
Mouser has specialized solder sucker tools, but they're pricey...

73,
LS
W5QD



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Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering

[Kevin Stover]

I thought the same thing when I built my K2/100.
As big as the solder sucker looks it does work. I had much more luck 
with it compared to the solder braid.
Keep the soldering iron on the pad in question to keep the solder liquid 
than stick the solder sucker on the other side of the pad from the iron 
and hit the button.



On 2/20/2016 9:11 AM, Mark Petrovic wrote:

I'm assembling an Elecraft K1, and get the distinct feeling that
unsoldering really is the last thing you want to be involved in.  I
have solder wick that has embedded flux, and I have a solder sucker
that seems huge compared to the size of the features I'm dealing with.
The wick works ok at getting some of the solder out, but not all of
it.  And a little bit of residual solder is still a major physical
blocker to correcting a misplaced component or bad joint.

I feel like I'm a pretty good solder-er, but I have not had good luck
with unsoldering.  Is it just me or does everyone have this problem?

Thanks.
Mark
AE6RT




--
R. Kevin Stover
AC0H
ARRL
FISTS #11993
SKCC #215
NAQCC #3441


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500

[Arie Kleingeld PA3A]

I  that Elecraft needs a new very good product that will sell at 
least 10.000 pieces in the next 3 or 4 years.

If not a PA, what product would that be? That would be a logical strategy.

(My two cents worth or maybe even less.)

73
Arie PA3A

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[Elecraft] Unsoldering

[Mark Petrovic]

I'm assembling an Elecraft K1, and get the distinct feeling that
unsoldering really is the last thing you want to be involved in.  I
have solder wick that has embedded flux, and I have a solder sucker
that seems huge compared to the size of the features I'm dealing with.
The wick works ok at getting some of the solder out, but not all of
it.  And a little bit of residual solder is still a major physical
blocker to correcting a misplaced component or bad joint.

I feel like I'm a pretty good solder-er, but I have not had good luck
with unsoldering.  Is it just me or does everyone have this problem?

Thanks.
Mark
AE6RT

-- 
Mark
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 142, Issue 38

[Kevin Stover]

Apparently the principals at Elecraft have decided, quite some time ago, 
not to offer a 1500W amp.

If you want an SSPA that will do 1.5K spend the $8K for the SPE 2KFA.
If you think Elecraft can produce an amp of that caliber for less than 
$8K I've got some lakefront property for sale.


There simply aren't enough hams ready, willing and able to spend that 
kind of money to make it economically viable.


They'll get killed by the amp competition. As soon as all the fan boys 
with money are exhausted the market will dry up.
$8K+ for an Elecraft SSPA or less than half that for an Ameritron 
AL-1500...and before you go down the "Ameritron is  crap" road... a 
bunch of real famous contesters use the AL-1500 and win with it.


On 2/19/2016 9:52 PM, Greg wrote:

How many people would it take to put $1000 or $2000 down toward a KPA1500
for Elecraft to produce it?  I would, for one.  And, I think I'm hearing
quite a few people who would be in line for one, even knowing that the amp
would be considerably more expensive than the KPA500.  It sounds like a lot
of the ground work is already done in the prototype.  Wayne had his way with
the QRP KX3...now it's Eric's turn... hi hi.  Eric or Wayne -- comment??
73, Greg-N4CC






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[Elecraft] K3/K3S 10W models with KXPA100

[lstavenhagen]

Hi all,
May be a bit silly of a question, but how well does the KXPA 100 work with
the K3 or K3S 10W model? Reason I ask is I now have 3 10W rigs (K3, K3S and
a K2) and may be building a 4th soon (another K2/10). And in the very rare
event when do go QRO, it would probably be cheaper to just get one 100W amp
to use with them all than 4 100W amp modules for each.

So my idea is a KXPA100 for my QRO ops with each one. So just curious how
well this amp works with the K3 and K3S? I would imagine it'd be similar to
using it with the K2 or ?

Thanks,
LS
W5QD



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500

[Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS]

Wayne,

many thanks for the status of KPA's projects. 

We can close this thread now in order to not bother others over here.
In any case many thanks for development of your KPA500!

best regards,
73 - Petr, OK1RP




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