Re: [Elecraft] K3 going expeditionary

[Jim Brown]

On 8/24/2020 8:17 PM, Clay Autery wrote:
Side bonus, was that the 12VDC ground plane was so good afterwards, that 
I have been able to take out a lot of the home run grounds from a bunch 
of lights, et al... ofsetting weight gain by some bit.


Important fundamental concept, Clay, that I learned in an IEEE EMC 
workshop. DC follows the path of least RESISTANCE. AC follows the path 
of least IMPEDANCE. If there is a transmission line with, for example, a 
chassis in parallel with the transmission line return, above about 1 
kHz, all the return current will be in the transmission line, NOT in the 
lower resistance chassis.


That's because the return patch through the chassis includes a lot of 
INDUCTIVE REACTANCE, which increases in proportion to frequency, while 
the path through the transmission line, if matched, never rises about Zo 
of the line. The whole point of using the transmission line is to reduce 
noise and crosstalk. It's only effect on DC (as compared to the chassis 
path) is to slightly reduce the DCR of the return path by adding the 
transmission line return in parallel. With coax, of course, the shield 
is the return. Wtih 2-wire line, one conductor is the "hot" lead, the 
other the return. AND -- 2-wire line and coax are no different in this 
regard! The KPA500, for example, uses twisted pair for wiring from the 
input coax to the amp input stage.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 going expeditionary

[Clay Autery]

Yup  When I did my alternator and battery upgrade (including a 
complete replacement of the power/ground cables with much heavier 
cable), for my stereo install, I discovered that very thing  even in 
a TRUCK with a frame.
I mapped out and installed massive ground continuity cables from every 
metal body part to the frame, and finished up by MEASURING the 
resistance from point to point all over the body, bed, cab, frame, and 
engine to insure that the entire ground plane was continuous and super 
low resistance.


Maybe overkill, but it works great, and it gives me comfort to know that 
vibration dampening and oxidation aren't compromising the counterpoise.


Side bonus, was that the 12VDC ground plane was so good afterwards, that 
I have been able to take out a lot of the home run grounds from a bunch 
of lights, et al... ofsetting weight gain by some bit.


73,

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
(318) 518-1389

On 08/24/20 17:40, Jim Brown wrote:
Yes, and this should definitely be twisted pair, contrary to what's on 
a highly regarded mobile site. Also, radio equipment in vehicles 
should NOT by bonded to the frame/chassis/vehicle metal.


OTOH, coax return for HF mobile antennas SHOULD be bonded to vehicle 
metal, because that's what serves as its counterpoise (often called a 
ground plane).


BTW -- a major obstacle to this being a good ground plane is that the 
metal parts of many (most?) vehicles are insulated from each other by 
paint. An ohmmeter study between parts of the chassis is a worthwhile 
effort.


73, Jim K9YC

On 8/24/2020 3:01 PM, Steve Hall wrote:

I highly recommend you run a power lead to the battery (ideally) or the
main power bus in the car interior rather than tap off the limited
accessory socket.   Keep well under the fuse rating that feeds the
accessory plug if you go that route.
Steve WM6P
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[Elecraft] APF Primer?

[kevinr]

I have used APF a number of times.  Sometimes it worked, but often the 
ringing makes it hard to hear anything intelligible.


I have a two families of questions to hopefully remedy my problem.

1) What are the best band conditions to try APF?  Does it work under 
medium QSB against medium to high noise levels?  Is it better on 80, 40, 
or 20 meters?


2) What are the procedures to use APF on your K3, KX2, KX3, etc.?  How 
should I set the bandwidth of the filter I'm already using?  How do I 
peak the APF performance?  Does the set up change on a per band basis or 
does one setting fit all cases?


As I mentioned, I have gotten it to work well a few times, but usually 
the signal sounds buried in a hard walled well.  Then I get emails 
telling me how well it worked during ECN.  My interest is renewed, hence 
my questions.


Help?

   Kevin.  KD5ONS

-

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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 plexiglass

[Jim H via Elecraft]

Hi, I also have an early s/n KX2, 024X. I had the same problem of the bowed 
Plexiglas cover. My cure was to grid off 1/16th strip on each end and elongate 
the screw holes carefully. No more bowing.  GL 73 Jim H K7SSS  In a message 
dated 8/24/2020 4:34:59 PM Pacific Standard Time, n7...@arrl.net writes: 
Hi folks-got a bit of an unusual issue with the plexiglass readout cover for my 
KX2. I use it a lot portable and SOTA and on an activation last week noticed 
that I had a few tiny interlopers crawling underneath the covering adding 
moving  symbols to the display:)).  After inspecting I noted that the 
plexiglass has slightly warped and bows up in the middle just enough to let the 
occasional spider mite  or piece of vegetation to slip under the glass. I could 
put a small bead of caulk I guess but it’s such a small gap. Probably the 
result of having the radio outside a lot in the sun-but that’s what it’s 
designed for! Kinda fun to watch them dance around with the changing 
display  Dan Presley 503-701-3871danpresley@me. com n7...@arrl.net
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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 plexiglass

[Dan Presley]

Well at least the bugs were external! Thanks Wayne for the information.  I’ll 
try flipping it around and I’ll check with customer service if it’s still an 
issue. Mine was a fairly early one so the change could’ve happen later. Usually 
a gentle puff of air under the cover is enough to get the guys scooting along. 
Maybe they’re attracted to the CW...haven’t done much night operations.  I’m 
kinda proud of having this problem of overuse! Still a long,long way to Mt. 
Goat award. 

Dan Presley 503-701-3871
danpresley@me. com 
n7...@arrl.net


> On Aug 24, 2020, at 17:38, Wayne Burdick  wrote:
> 
> Hi Dan,
> 
> Flip the bezel over when you reinstall it. This will compress the convex 
> catenary side against the case, reducing the gap.
> 
> Note that at some point in the KX2's history we revised the bezel, moving the 
> screw holes slightly outward. Customer support could help you determine if 
> you have the older one, which is more likely to bow as you described. Free 
> replacement on us if it's an issue.
> 
> Meanwhile, please relocate any live arthropods you find to a new home. 
> Something fecund, preferably. We're in the midst of an insect apocalypse, you 
> may have heard
> 
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
> 
> 
> 
>> On Aug 24, 2020, at 5:15 PM, Paul Van Dyke  wrote:
>> 
>> So, you are telling us that the KX2 has a few bugs?
>> 
>> Paul KB9AVO
>> 
>>> On Mon, Aug 24, 2020, 7:33 PM Dan Presley  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hi folks-got a bit of an unusual issue with the plexiglass readout cover
>>> for my KX2. I use it a lot portable and SOTA and on an activation last week
>>> noticed that I had a few tiny interlopers crawling underneath the covering
>>> adding moving  symbols to the display:)).  After inspecting I noted that
>>> the plexiglass has slightly warped and bows up in the middle just enough to
>>> let the occasional spider mite  or piece of vegetation to slip under the
>>> glass. I could put a small bead of caulk I guess but it’s such a small gap.
>>> Probably the result of having the radio outside a lot in the sun-but that’s
>>> what it’s designed for! Kinda fun to watch them dance around with the
>>> changing display
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Dan Presley 503-701-3871
>>> danpresley@me. com
>>> n7...@arrl.net
>>> 
>>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 plexiglass

[Wayne Burdick]

Hi Dan,

Flip the bezel over when you reinstall it. This will compress the convex 
catenary side against the case, reducing the gap.

Note that at some point in the KX2's history we revised the bezel, moving the 
screw holes slightly outward. Customer support could help you determine if you 
have the older one, which is more likely to bow as you described. Free 
replacement on us if it's an issue.

Meanwhile, please relocate any live arthropods you find to a new home. 
Something fecund, preferably. We're in the midst of an insect apocalypse, you 
may have heard

73,
Wayne
N6KR



> On Aug 24, 2020, at 5:15 PM, Paul Van Dyke  wrote:
> 
> So, you are telling us that the KX2 has a few bugs?
> 
> Paul KB9AVO
> 
> On Mon, Aug 24, 2020, 7:33 PM Dan Presley  wrote:
> 
>> Hi folks-got a bit of an unusual issue with the plexiglass readout cover
>> for my KX2. I use it a lot portable and SOTA and on an activation last week
>> noticed that I had a few tiny interlopers crawling underneath the covering
>> adding moving  symbols to the display:)).  After inspecting I noted that
>> the plexiglass has slightly warped and bows up in the middle just enough to
>> let the occasional spider mite  or piece of vegetation to slip under the
>> glass. I could put a small bead of caulk I guess but it’s such a small gap.
>> Probably the result of having the radio outside a lot in the sun-but that’s
>> what it’s designed for! Kinda fun to watch them dance around with the
>> changing display
>> 
>> 
>> Dan Presley 503-701-3871
>> danpresley@me. com
>> n7...@arrl.net
>> 
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 plexiglass

[Paul Van Dyke]

So, you are telling us that the KX2 has a few bugs?

Paul KB9AVO

On Mon, Aug 24, 2020, 7:33 PM Dan Presley  wrote:

> Hi folks-got a bit of an unusual issue with the plexiglass readout cover
> for my KX2. I use it a lot portable and SOTA and on an activation last week
> noticed that I had a few tiny interlopers crawling underneath the covering
> adding moving  symbols to the display:)).  After inspecting I noted that
> the plexiglass has slightly warped and bows up in the middle just enough to
> let the occasional spider mite  or piece of vegetation to slip under the
> glass. I could put a small bead of caulk I guess but it’s such a small gap.
> Probably the result of having the radio outside a lot in the sun-but that’s
> what it’s designed for! Kinda fun to watch them dance around with the
> changing display
>
>
> Dan Presley 503-701-3871
> danpresley@me. com
> n7...@arrl.net
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 going expeditionary

[Fred Jensen]

"Had to disconnect main battery terminals to reboot the computer to get 
home."  440 in my old Ford Ranger just cancelled the cruise control if 
it was engaged.  Just like Windoze Jim!


Glad your house has survived ... really hoping for Bob's.

73,

Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 8/24/2020 3:45 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

On 8/24/2020 9:03 AM, Mike Short wrote:
RFI on audio, agreed. Noise on DC, not so much. Routing is the most 
important factor for DC power. It is hard to get enough turns on the 
proper size wire to make a difference.


Yes, routing is important. But what you're missing is that a major 
issue is RF getting into the vehicle's computers, and the RF noise 
from those computers getting into our DC wiring. I learned this the 
hard way with my 2006 big Toyota SUV. Calling CQ barefoot on 20M SSB 
put the car's computer into "limp-home" mode in the NV high desert. 
Had to disconnect main battery terminals to reboot the computer to get 
home.


73, Jim K9YC


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[Elecraft] KX2 plexiglass

[Dan Presley]

Hi folks-got a bit of an unusual issue with the plexiglass readout cover for my 
KX2. I use it a lot portable and SOTA and on an activation last week noticed 
that I had a few tiny interlopers crawling underneath the covering adding 
moving  symbols to the display:)).  After inspecting I noted that the 
plexiglass has slightly warped and bows up in the middle just enough to let the 
occasional spider mite  or piece of vegetation to slip under the glass. I could 
put a small bead of caulk I guess but it’s such a small gap. Probably the 
result of having the radio outside a lot in the sun-but that’s what it’s 
designed for! Kinda fun to watch them dance around with the changing display


Dan Presley 503-701-3871
danpresley@me. com 
n7...@arrl.net


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 going expeditionary

[Jim Brown]

On 8/24/2020 9:03 AM, Mike Short wrote:
RFI on audio, agreed. Noise on DC, not so much. Routing is the most 
important factor for DC power. It is hard to get enough turns on the 
proper size wire to make a difference.


Yes, routing is important. But what you're missing is that a major issue 
is RF getting into the vehicle's computers, and the RF noise from those 
computers getting into our DC wiring. I learned this the hard way with 
my 2006 big Toyota SUV. Calling CQ barefoot on 20M SSB put the car's 
computer into "limp-home" mode in the NV high desert. Had to disconnect 
main battery terminals to reboot the computer to get home.


73, Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 going expeditionary

[Jim Brown]

Yes, and this should definitely be twisted pair, contrary to what's on a 
highly regarded mobile site. Also, radio equipment in vehicles should 
NOT by bonded to the frame/chassis/vehicle metal.


OTOH, coax return for HF mobile antennas SHOULD be bonded to vehicle 
metal, because that's what serves as its counterpoise (often called a 
ground plane).


BTW -- a major obstacle to this being a good ground plane is that the 
metal parts of many (most?) vehicles are insulated from each other by 
paint. An ohmmeter study between parts of the chassis is a worthwhile 
effort.


73, Jim K9YC

On 8/24/2020 3:01 PM, Steve Hall wrote:

I highly recommend you run a power lead to the battery (ideally) or the
main power bus in the car interior rather than tap off the limited
accessory socket.   Keep well under the fuse rating that feeds the
accessory plug if you go that route.
Steve WM6P
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[Elecraft] K3 going expeditionary

[Steve Hall]

I highly recommend you run a power lead to the battery (ideally) or the
main power bus in the car interior rather than tap off the limited
accessory socket.   Keep well under the fuse rating that feeds the
accessory plug if you go that route.
Steve WM6P
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 going expeditionary

[Jim Brown]

On 8/24/2020 11:56 AM, Ted Edwards W3TB wrote:

My thanks to everybody.
It is rather overwhelming for just a Sunday afternoon of portable 
operation in remote counties powered by the car.

I will really want to keep simple in those terms.


In that contest, I'd simply use smaller gauge twisted pair.

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] IC with Tin leads and Machined Pin Gold Sockets ?

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

 Thank you


On Monday, August 24, 2020, 02:13:58 PM EDT, Don Wilhelm 
 wrote:  
 
 Harry,

Unless it is the machined pin sockets which exclude air, the "don't do 
it" folks win.
Elecraft had problems with that in the K3 which lead to them sending 
many gold-plated pins out for replacement.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/24/2020 1:29 PM, Harry Yingst via Elecraft wrote:
> I've read various points of view from don't do it to it's OK.But I don't 
> recall ever reading a 100% definitive answer
> So does anyone know the real answer?
> Thank you
  
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 going expeditionary

[Ted Edwards W3TB]

My thanks to everybody.
It is rather overwhelming for just a Sunday afternoon of portable operation
in remote counties powered by the car.
I will really want to keep simple in those terms.

Reading through all this several times.  Thanks to all who contributed.

On Mon, Aug 24, 2020 at 11:26 AM Jim Brown 
wrote:

> Of course it applies. Mother nature does not pay attention to what we
> CALL things. It is quite common for DC and mains power to carry AF and
> RF currents. That's how most noise is radiated -- as a common mode
> signal on cables connected to equipment that includes noise sources.
>
> BTW -- as Vice-Chair of AES Standards Committee for 20 years, I HAVE
> studied this stuff extensively, along with colleagues around the world
> with excellent engineering chops.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
>
> On 8/24/2020 8:47 AM, Rich NE1EE wrote:
> > Well...this reply covers a lot of ground. We are addressing power lines
> running DC, not signal lines with high freq signals? Even audio moves the
> question from DC to audio frequencies. I have seen coupling of AC to very
> long DC signal wires (current loop or voltage sensors, such as RTD), but I
> am addressing hundreds of meters. I have not looked at the effect for
> shorter wires running essentially DC, in an environment where there are
> high freq signals to couple. But then, I included the inline filter from
> the start, so I don't know if it did any good or not. For $30 (I think?),
> it was not worth thinking about. I'm familiar with twisting, crosstalk,
> etc, for signals, but not sure that it translates to DC power supplies of
> short length.
>
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-- 
73 de Ted Edwards, W3TB and GØPWW

and thinking about operating CW:
"Do today what others won't,
so you can do tomorrow what others can't."
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Re: [Elecraft] IC with Tin leads and Machined Pin Gold Sockets ?

[Don Wilhelm]

Harry,

Unless it is the machined pin sockets which exclude air, the "don't do 
it" folks win.
Elecraft had problems with that in the K3 which lead to them sending 
many gold-plated pins out for replacement.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/24/2020 1:29 PM, Harry Yingst via Elecraft wrote:

I've read various points of view from don't do it to it's OK.But I don't recall 
ever reading a 100% definitive answer
So does anyone know the real answer?
Thank you

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[Elecraft] FS: Pignology Piglet and PigKnob

[Gene Sochor]

First call for this list. New In Box, never used, prefer to sell 
together but will consider splitting package:
Piglet wireless rig interface and PigKnob remote tuning knob, $125 ($225 
value)
All documentation available on Pignology.Net website. Shipping included 
within USA.

Gene N9SW

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Re: [Elecraft] IC with Tin leads and Machined Pin Gold Sockets ?

[Kevin Cozens]

On 2020-08-24 1:29 p.m., Harry Yingst via Elecraft wrote:

I've read various points of view from don't do it to it's OK.


I think the people that say "don't do it" may be concerned about the 
dissimilar metals being in contact with each other and what problems that 
might cause. The issue shouldn't be any different from other socket types 
that use something other than tin for the contacts.


--
Cheers!

Kevin.

http://www.ve3syb.ca/   | "Nerds make the shiny things that
https://www.patreon.com/KevinCozens | distract the mouth-breathers, and
| that's why we're powerful"
Owner of Elecraft K2 #2172  |
#include  | --Chris Hardwick
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 latching relays and filter alignment

[w4sc]

This relay is shown as a direct replacement on the Digikey website.  Panasonic  
TQ2-L-5V.

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/omron-electronics-inc-emc-div/G6HU-2-DC5/Z3031-ND/369201

One may have better success in finding the Panasonic part in Eu.  Elecraft 
service may be able to verify the part as a good replacement.

73 de Ben W4SC



Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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[Elecraft] IC with Tin leads and Machined Pin Gold Sockets ?

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

I've read various points of view from don't do it to it's OK.But I don't recall 
ever reading a 100% definitive answer
So does anyone know the real answer?
Thank you


 

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 latching relays and filter alignment

[Don Wilhelm]

Albin,

The relay manufacturer has changed since Omron stopped making them.  The 
new relays are made by another manufacturer (Kettering if I recall 
correctly).  Contact Elecraft to find ordering details on the new 
relays, or order from Elecraft.


Since the "filter alignmment" consists of setting the filter width and 
then adjusting the BFO to place it properly with respect to the filter 
center, rather then actual alignment of the filter itself, the best 
tools are an audio spectrum analyzer to observe the audio and a wideband 
noise generator to inject RF into the antenna jack.
The audio spectrum analyzer may be a soundcard program such as 
Specctrogram or SpectrumLab running on the computer.  Take the audio 
output either from the headphone jack or the External Speaker jack.
If a wideband noise source is not available, you can use 'dead band' 
noise from an antenna - make certain there are no actual signals.


A spectrum analyzer and tracking generator will not work well unless you 
can set the analyzer for audio wile the tracking generator is at RF.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/24/2020 11:35 AM, Albin Stigö wrote:

Hi,

I'm in the process of repairing a K2 I've inherited from Clemed SM6DRH
who sadly passed away earlier this year at age 90.

It didn't receive/transmit on 40m and I've identified the problem to
be a defect ("stuck in the middle") relay K12 (bandpass select relay).
The relay in question is an Omron G6HU-2 5VDC. These are kind of hard
to find these days so I was wondering if anyone knows where I can find
them (preferably in the EU) or a suitable replacement?

While I'm at it I was thinking about re-aligning all the filters using
a spectrum analyzer with a tracking generator. I'm wondering if anyone
has developed a procedure for this, ie where it's good to inject the
TG signal and where it's good to measure.


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 latching relays and filter alignment

[Neil Zampella]

Albin,

Elecraft does have these relays.   I had to replace one in my K2, and I
ordered via the website.

Neil, KN3ILZ

On 8/24/2020 10:35 AM, Albin Stigö wrote:

Hi,

I'm in the process of repairing a K2 I've inherited from Clemed SM6DRH
who sadly passed away earlier this year at age 90.

It didn't receive/transmit on 40m and I've identified the problem to
be a defect ("stuck in the middle") relay K12 (bandpass select relay).
The relay in question is an Omron G6HU-2 5VDC. These are kind of hard
to find these days so I was wondering if anyone knows where I can find
them (preferably in the EU) or a suitable replacement?

While I'm at it I was thinking about re-aligning all the filters using
a spectrum analyzer with a tracking generator. I'm wondering if anyone
has developed a procedure for this, ie where it's good to inject the
TG signal and where it's good to measure.


Sincerely,
Albin SM6WJM


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[Elecraft] FS K3-100

[Robert Rennard via Elecraft]

K3 100 watt transceiver #0734 with ATU, 400 Hz 8 Pole Filter for CW, 2700 Hz 5 
pole filter for SSB & digital; 6 foot red/black power lead with PowerPole 
connector.  NO sub-receiver, NO DVK, NO general coverage module, NO 
transverter, NO KUSB cable, NO microphone

Factory serviced for low noise synthesizer upgrade, updated DSP, latest 
transverter interface with preamp 2 for 6-12 meters, lower noise TCXO, Gold 
pins and many other updates.  Extensive details and pictures on QRZ swap meet.

Always operated within a non-smoking, air conditioned environment; never 
operated mobile or in a field day tent.  Very clean inside and out.  Never 
failed me in 10 years!

Asking $1432 plus shipping USA only.

Bob R – N7WY
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 going expeditionary

[Jim Brown]

Of course it applies. Mother nature does not pay attention to what we 
CALL things. It is quite common for DC and mains power to carry AF and 
RF currents. That's how most noise is radiated -- as a common mode 
signal on cables connected to equipment that includes noise sources.


BTW -- as Vice-Chair of AES Standards Committee for 20 years, I HAVE 
studied this stuff extensively, along with colleagues around the world 
with excellent engineering chops.


73, Jim K9YC

On 8/24/2020 8:47 AM, Rich NE1EE wrote:

Well...this reply covers a lot of ground. We are addressing power lines running 
DC, not signal lines with high freq signals? Even audio moves the question from 
DC to audio frequencies. I have seen coupling of AC to very long DC signal 
wires (current loop or voltage sensors, such as RTD), but I am addressing 
hundreds of meters. I have not looked at the effect for shorter wires running 
essentially DC, in an environment where there are high freq signals to couple. 
But then, I included the inline filter from the start, so I don't know if it 
did any good or not. For $30 (I think?), it was not worth thinking about. I'm 
familiar with twisting, crosstalk, etc, for signals, but not sure that it 
translates to DC power supplies of short length.


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 going expeditionary

[Mike Short]

RFI on audio, agreed. Noise on DC, not so much. Routing is the most
important factor for DC power. It is hard to get enough turns on the proper
size wire to make a difference.



On Mon, Aug 24, 2020 at 10:24 AM Jim Brown 
wrote:

> On 8/24/2020 8:11 AM, Mike Short wrote:
> > Twisting the wires doesn’t do anything.
>
> Au contraire!  Twisting provides an excellent rejection of of crosstalk,
> including RFI. Have you not noticed that CAT5/6/7 cables are four
> tightly twisted pairs, each with a slightly different twist ratio, all
> very well engineered to minimize crosstalk between them?  Twisted pair
> has been widely used in pro audio for a century. Beginning with the
> earliest days of telephony, their cables were run on the same poles as
> AC, with a crossover every other pole to provide the twist (the only
> rejection needed was at 60 Hz, 50 Hz in EU).
>
> Those who make and sell zip cord, glorified or otherwise, as speaker
> cable are ignorant of this. When I lived in Chicago, I solved a lot of
> RFI to home stereo systems by replacing such with twisted pair.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
>
>
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[Elecraft] K2 latching relays and filter alignment

[Albin Stigö]

Hi,

I'm in the process of repairing a K2 I've inherited from Clemed SM6DRH
who sadly passed away earlier this year at age 90.

It didn't receive/transmit on 40m and I've identified the problem to
be a defect ("stuck in the middle") relay K12 (bandpass select relay).
The relay in question is an Omron G6HU-2 5VDC. These are kind of hard
to find these days so I was wondering if anyone knows where I can find
them (preferably in the EU) or a suitable replacement?

While I'm at it I was thinking about re-aligning all the filters using
a spectrum analyzer with a tracking generator. I'm wondering if anyone
has developed a procedure for this, ie where it's good to inject the
TG signal and where it's good to measure.


Sincerely,
Albin SM6WJM
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 going expeditionary

[Jim Brown]

On 8/24/2020 8:11 AM, Mike Short wrote:

Twisting the wires doesn’t do anything.


Au contraire!  Twisting provides an excellent rejection of of crosstalk, 
including RFI. Have you not noticed that CAT5/6/7 cables are four 
tightly twisted pairs, each with a slightly different twist ratio, all 
very well engineered to minimize crosstalk between them?  Twisted pair 
has been widely used in pro audio for a century. Beginning with the 
earliest days of telephony, their cables were run on the same poles as 
AC, with a crossover every other pole to provide the twist (the only 
rejection needed was at 60 Hz, 50 Hz in EU).


Those who make and sell zip cord, glorified or otherwise, as speaker 
cable are ignorant of this. When I lived in Chicago, I solved a lot of 
RFI to home stereo systems by replacing such with twisted pair.


73, Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 going expeditionary

[Mike Short]

Twisting the wires doesn’t do anything.

On Mon, Aug 24, 2020 at 09:28 Clay Autery  wrote:

> IF it were me, I would run two NEW, 10GA or better high strand count
>
> wires (twisted by hand or drill) from the battery to the cabin with
>
> appropriate fuses in BOTH POS and NEG lines, and the Anderson PP
>
> connector on the end.
>
> Ideally, I would also put a SPST switch in the POS (my pref), or a DPST
>
> switch across both leads so that I could turn the power off there for
>
> connection purposes (optional).
>
>
>
> This gives you the ability to 1) power the K3 with Key off, engine off
>
> if desired, and 2) gives you a big, shortest run dedicated to the radio.
>
> Additionally, it gives you a twisted pair, AND the ability to put chokes
>
> wherever you might need them to quiet down the power source from
>
> possible noise from the vehicle.
>
>
>
> 73,
>
>
>
> __
>
> Clay Autery, KY5G
>
> (318) 518-1389
>
>
>
> On 08/23/20 13:32, Ed K1EP wrote:
>
> > You could do that. I wouldn't advise it for other reasons. Why don't you
>
> > measure the current at different power levels when on a power supply?
> There
>
> > is a current display on the radio. The cigarette plug is not directly
>
> > connected to the battery. There is likely to be poor connections
> resulting
>
> > in IR losses and other problems.
>
> >
>
> > On Sun, Aug 23, 2020, 14:22 Ted Edwards W3TB  wrote:
>
> >
>
> >> I am planning to put my K3 in the car for the upcoming Tennessee QSO
> Party
>
> >> so that I can go rover/expeditionary.
>
> >>
>
> >> With that comes a question:  Powering from that accessory socket which
>
> >> appears limited to 15 amps instead of the 20 amps that the K3 wants at
> full
>
> >> power, do I understand right that reducing to 50 watts output and taking
>
> >> the -3dB will work out in terms of power draw?
>
> >>
>
> >> In the past, I have done QRP and would like to be a bit louder this
> time.
>
> >> Thanks to all who might respond.
>
> >>
>
> >> --
>
> >> 73 de Ted Edwards, W3TB and GØPWW
>
> >>
>
> >> and thinking about operating CW:
>
> >> "Do today what others won't,
>
> >> so you can do tomorrow what others can't."
>
> >> __
>
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>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 going expeditionary

[Clay Autery]

IF it were me, I would run two NEW, 10GA or better high strand count 
wires (twisted by hand or drill) from the battery to the cabin with 
appropriate fuses in BOTH POS and NEG lines, and the Anderson PP 
connector on the end.
Ideally, I would also put a SPST switch in the POS (my pref), or a DPST 
switch across both leads so that I could turn the power off there for 
connection purposes (optional).


This gives you the ability to 1) power the K3 with Key off, engine off 
if desired, and 2) gives you a big, shortest run dedicated to the radio.
Additionally, it gives you a twisted pair, AND the ability to put chokes 
wherever you might need them to quiet down the power source from 
possible noise from the vehicle.


73,

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
(318) 518-1389

On 08/23/20 13:32, Ed K1EP wrote:

You could do that. I wouldn't advise it for other reasons. Why don't you
measure the current at different power levels when on a power supply? There
is a current display on the radio. The cigarette plug is not directly
connected to the battery. There is likely to be poor connections resulting
in IR losses and other problems.

On Sun, Aug 23, 2020, 14:22 Ted Edwards W3TB  wrote:


I am planning to put my K3 in the car for the upcoming Tennessee QSO Party
so that I can go rover/expeditionary.

With that comes a question:  Powering from that accessory socket which
appears limited to 15 amps instead of the 20 amps that the K3 wants at full
power, do I understand right that reducing to 50 watts output and taking
the -3dB will work out in terms of power draw?

In the past, I have done QRP and would like to be a bit louder this time.
Thanks to all who might respond.

--
73 de Ted Edwards, W3TB and GØPWW

and thinking about operating CW:
"Do today what others won't,
so you can do tomorrow what others can't."
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Re: [Elecraft] Rear Mike Jack Question

[Barry]

On a semi-related note, I don't understand why manufacturers continue to put
a mic jack, with its overly bulky mating connector, on the front panel.  It
always gets in the way.

Barry W21UP 



--
Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
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Re: [Elecraft] Rear Mike Jack Question

[N4ZR]

Egads, who knew? Clearly not me.  Of course, my K3 is relatively early, 
and I didn't download the latest manual until this year.  Thanks, Don!


Check out the Reverse Beacon Network
at , now
spotting RTTY activity worldwide.
For spots, please use your favorite
"retail" DX cluster.

On 8/23/2020 11:30 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Pete,

Go to the MIC SEL menu and tap 1 to toggle between the high gain mic 
preamp and the low gain.

See page 52 of a more recent manual.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/23/2020 9:55 PM, N4ZR wrote:


Don, I do not have a RPL bias option under Mic Sel.  Only RPH, FPH 
and Line IN


73, Pete N4ZR
Check out the Reverse Beacon Network
at, now
spotting RTTY activity worldwide.
For spots, please use your favorite
"retail" DX cluster.
On 8/23/2020 12:41 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Set MIC SEL to RPL BIAS.  You do not need the high gain amp with 
that mic.  It is likely producing feedback as you have it set.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/23/2020 11:56 AM, N4ZR wrote:
Recently, I began trying to use the rear microphone jack on my K3 
with my Yamaha boom mike, instead of using a stand-alone USB sound 
card and feeding the signal to the LIN IN jack.  This worked fine 
for a couple of weeks, but today when I tried it, I got very loud 
white noise driving my radio and amp essentially to full scale. I 
have MIC SEL set to RPH BIAS, which has worked in the past. Any MIC 
gain setting over 7 drives the amp to full output.  When I pull the 
mike plug out of the jack, the problem goes away.





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