[Elecraft] K2/10 I Idiom Press CMOS4 Keyer Conflict
Please reply direct, as I use digest mode and may not get the reply until later. Hi All, I have a K2/10 and an Idiom Press CMOS4 keyer that I would like to use together. I have everything connected properly, the K2 set to Hand for the input device, and the the cables I made are properly fashioned and not shorted. HOWEVER, when I go to send (on either side of my paddles) the K2 goes into total key-down, and the only way to stop it is to turn the rig off OR disconnect the CMOS4. The CMOS4 doesn't seem to be malfunctioning. When I just have paddles connected to the K2, and use the internal keyer, everything works fine. Also, when I have the K2 set to Hand and the paddles connected, everything works fine. I am not sure if the problem is with the CMOS4, K2, or both. I know the CMOS4 works properly since I have been using it since 2008 on my ICOM with nary a problem. Any ideas/input would be appreciated. If the problem is in the CMOS4, I'll E-mail Rob at Idiom Press, but I figured that I would start here. Thanks 73, David, KC9EHQ K1-4 sn 2051 K2/10 sn 7164 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2/10 I Idiom Press CMOS4 Keyer Conflict
Hello Don, I hope you are well. You are a huge help to all of us in the Elecraft and QRP community. Do you have the plug from the CMOS4 wired correctly? I believe so. I bought a 3' cable with RCA Male plugs on both ends, cut the cable in half, and then soldered an 1/8 mono to the cut ends. I did make sure to wire the center wire to the tip of the mono plug and the outer ground wire to the shell/lower shaft of the mono plug. I am going to Ohm things out just to make sure. My only other thought would be to use a stereo plug instead. If that is the case, I might need to go to Radio Shack and get another cable and some stereo connectors this time. Thanks 73, David KC9EHQ On Feb 25, 2013, at 07:59 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote: David, Do you have the plug from the CMOS4 wired correctly? There are only 2 lines to connect. The hot line should go to the tip and the ground line from the CMOS4 should connect to the shell. No connection to the ring on the plug. Be certain that the ground from the CMOS4 is wired to he shell of the plug. Either wiring the ground from the CMOS4 to the tip or wiring to the tip and ring (rather than the shell) will cause the behavior you have mentioned. 73, Don W3FPR On 2/25/2013 8:18 PM, David Dietrich wrote: Please reply direct, as I use digest mode and may not get the reply until later. Hi All, I have a K2/10 and an Idiom Press CMOS4 keyer that I would like to use together. I have everything connected properly, the K2 set to Hand for the input device, and the the cables I made are properly fashioned and not shorted. HOWEVER, when I go to send (on either side of my paddles) the K2 goes into total key-down, and the only way to stop it is to turn the rig off OR disconnect the CMOS4. The CMOS4 doesn't seem to be malfunctioning. When I just have paddles connected to the K2, and use the internal keyer, everything works fine. Also, when I have the K2 set to Hand and the paddles connected, everything works fine. I am not sure if the problem is with the CMOS4, K2, or both. I know the CMOS4 works properly since I have been using it since 2008 on my ICOM with nary a problem. Any ideas/input would be appreciated. If the problem is in the CMOS4, I'll E-mail Rob at Idiom Press, but I figured that I would start here. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2/10 I Idiom Press CMOS4 Keyer Conflict
Hi Vic, Yeah, that is kind of my thoughts after doing some headdesks. Looks like I might take a trip to Radio Shack and get another one of those cables and some stereo plugs. I happen to have a cheapy-creepy stereo plug that I am going to use to experiment with the connections before I build. I might end up making two cables, as I also have the SCAF-1 audio filter. I discovered that you need stereo plugs if you are going to connect the input to the SCAF-1 to the headphone jack of a rig. Ah...The things one learns through trial and error. 73, David KC9EHQ On Feb 25, 2013, at 09:22 PM, Vic K2VCO k2vco@gmail.com wrote: You MUST use a stereo plug in the K2 key jack. A mono plug will short the 'ring' connection to ground, which will key the rig. In HAND mode, either tip or ring will key the K2 when grounded. On 2/25/2013 7:15 PM, David Dietrich wrote: Hello Don, I hope you are well. You are a huge help to all of us in the Elecraft and QRP community. Do you have the plug from the CMOS4 wired correctly? I believe so. I bought a 3' cable with RCA Male plugs on both ends, cut the cable in half, and then soldered an 1/8 mono to the cut ends. I did make sure to wire the center wire to the tip of the mono plug and the outer ground wire to the shell/lower shaft of the mono plug. I am going to Ohm things out just to make sure. My only other thought would be to use a stereo plug instead. If that is the case, I might need to go to Radio Shack and get another cable and some stereo connectors this time. Thanks 73, David KC9EHQ On Feb 25, 2013, at 07:59 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote: David, Do you have the plug from the CMOS4 wired correctly? There are only 2 lines to connect. The hot line should go to the tip and the ground line from the CMOS4 should connect to the shell. No connection to the ring on the plug. Be certain that the ground from the CMOS4 is wired to he shell of the plug. Either wiring the ground from the CMOS4 to the tip or wiring to the tip and ring (rather than the shell) will cause the behavior you have mentioned. 73, Don W3FPR On 2/25/2013 8:18 PM, David Dietrich wrote: Please reply direct, as I use digest mode and may not get the reply until later. Hi All, I have a K2/10 and an Idiom Press CMOS4 keyer that I would like to use together. I have everything connected properly, the K2 set to Hand for the input device, and the the cables I made are properly fashioned and not shorted. HOWEVER, when I go to send (on either side of my paddles) the K2 goes into total key-down, and the only way to stop it is to turn the rig off OR disconnect the CMOS4. The CMOS4 doesn't seem to be malfunctioning. When I just have paddles connected to the K2, and use the internal keyer, everything works fine. Also, when I have the K2 set to Hand and the paddles connected, everything works fine. I am not sure if the problem is with the CMOS4, K2, or both. I know the CMOS4 works properly since I have been using it since 2008 on my ICOM with nary a problem. Any ideas/input would be appreciated. If the problem is in the CMOS4, I'll E-mail Rob at Idiom Press, but I figured that I would start here. -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] RESOLVED!!! K2/10 I Idiom Press CMOS4 Keyer Conflict
Hello All, Thanks to those who replied. I figured a few of you would be able to point me in the right direction. =) Well, I guess I need to make a trip to Radio Shack tomorrow and get another cable and some stereo plugs this time around. All is not lost with the two mono cables, as they can be used with other rigs. It never occurred to me that I should have used stereo plugs. For both my ICOM and Yaesu rigs, the CMOS and SCAF-1 connectors are mono, and the radios don't care. Background: I recently built a special power cable that allows me to connect a QRP rig, CMOS4, SCAF-1, and the OHR QRP Wattmeter to the same battery supply. I also want some short interface cables between the rig, CMOS4, and SCAF-1. I also used extra long plastic zip ties to securely stack the CMOS4 and SCAF-1 on top of each other so they are one unit. With Son #2 on the way next month, and a two year old at home, this dad is thinking that operating QRP in the park/forest preserve will be the only option when I want some peace and quiet to operate. 73, David KC9EHQ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Test…Disregard
Test from new E-mail…Please disregard. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] OT: Open wire feeder cautions
Ken, Very good insight...Thanks for sharing! Rose has a scar on her arm from when she was painting an outside wall years ago while I was on the air with a KW. AND YOU ARE STILL ALIVE, MARRIED, AND STILL HAVE A HAM STATION AFTER THAT?!?!?!?!?! If that happened to my wife, Trina, she would divorce, kill, and/or emasculate me, AND smash all of my equipment! 73, David KC9EHQ K1-4 sn 2051 K2/10 sn 7164 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Mic Conn. Protector!
Hi Jim, Easiest and cheapest would be to go to Radio Shack and get a mic connector, break it to get the collar, then fashion a small circle out of sheet metal to fit the opening in the collar. You can then leave it silver in color or paint it. Also, put a tab of electrical tape on the inside to prevent shorting pins. I did exactly this on my K2 and it worked great! Also, sheet metal can also be used to fashion covers for unused options. 73, David KC9EHQ K1-4 #2051 K2/10 #7164 Jim Harris capo...@gmail.com wrote: *Good afternoon, Folks.* * * *If anyone knows of a supplier for a Cover that goes over the Mic Conn. on the front of a K2 or K3, I would appreciate hearing from you. * * * *I am a CW Op. only and would like to cover these Mic Conn. with some kind of screw-on Cover to keep the Pins from collecting dust or whatever.* * * *Thanks and best 73.* *Jim* *WA4NTM* __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K2] POWER control has no effect on actual transmit power
Along with what Don Wilhelm suggests, I would also look at all the RF board SMT IC's on daughterboards and see if any of the pins on the IC's themselves are not 100% soldered. I had a similiar problem on my K2, and the problem turned out to be an unsoldered pin. Once it was soldered, and a connection made, the K2 was up and running. 73, David KC9EHQ K2/10 #7164 From: Ben Byer bb...@mm.st To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2012 6:44 PM Subject: [Elecraft] [K2] POWER control has no effect on actual transmit power I've had fun putting together K2 #7373, and am finally at the point of doing the 40-Meter Transmitter Alignment (manual, p.78). I have the unit connected to a 50-ohm dummy load, and am trying to tune L1 and L2 to show 2W on the internal wattmeter. When I press TUNE, the measured power ranges from 0.2W-0.4W. I can adjust the POWER knob to show 0.1W - 15.2W while the unit is idle, so the knob reading circuit works -- but adjusting the knob doesn't change the reported transmit power even slightly (remains 0.2W-0.4W), and neither does adjusting L1 or L2. I suspect that the measurement is correct, because the overall unit power consumption is measured as 11.9V 0.20A when idle, and 0.42-0.44A when in TUNE mode (regardless of what I set POWER to before enabling TUNE -- same result with 0.1W vs 15.2W) I already checked the voltages on RF Q5, Q6, Q7, and all seem reasonable. (Actually, initially I measured 0v on the Q6/Q7 collector during transmit, and discovered that I had swapped two wires on T3. Fixing that brought the voltage up to almost 12v, but did not change the transmit power). Any suggestions? Thanks, Ben (KJ6ZGJ) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] FISTS GYFWW Happening NOW!!!
Howdy All, Regardless whether you are a member of FISTS or not, their annual Get Your Feet Wet Weekend is happening RIGHT NOW until 2359z on Sunday. I am sending this message out because I am taking part and the participation is *very* sparse to say the least. So, if you have time this weekend, and want to take part in a nice and easygoing operating event/contest, fire up your rigs and jump in! All info is at: http://fists.org/operating.html#feetwet There is a multiplier for each station licensed between 2007 and 2012 that you work. (there is a misprint on the log summary sheet from the website) Hope to hear more people taking part when I go back on perhaps later this evening and throughout the day tomorrow. Please spread the word!! 73, David KC9EHQ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Digest reader recommendation
Don Wilhelm is right about filters...I get the individual messages and filtering is the way to go. Since I don't own a K3, I have all those messages immediately sent to trash (sorry) so my inbox isn't overwhelmed. 73, David KC9EHQ From: Mark Kempisty mkempi...@verizon.net To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Friday, August 17, 2012 7:31 AM Subject: [Elecraft] [OT] Digest reader recommendation Going a bit off topic here but should still be relevant. This is the only e-mail reflector I get in digest format (the others that I subscribe to only have a handful of messages a week so I get those one by one). Reading through the digest gets difficult at times. Can anyone recommend an e-mail digest reader good for XP and later OS'es? The one or two I've found don't like the format of this digest for some strange reason and are no longer supported. Take care, Mark AA3K __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] An obvious K2 battery observation
Tom et al, That is why I use an external gel cell, and didn't opt for the internal battery. As we all know, rechargable batteries have a finite life and do lose their charge over time. 73, David KC9EHQ K1-4 s/n 2051 K2/10 s/n 7164 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] BNC to BNC 50 ohm cable source
Hi All, Cable X-Perts possibly does custom cables. I don't buy from them because their prices are much higher than AES/HRO, but I remember reading that Universal Radio would do custom cable assemblies. Perhaps DX Engineering also. They seem to have everything related to antennas and feedlines. Just my two cents. 73, David KC9EHQ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] BL2 w/Multi-Band Dipole
Hello Everyone! I am planning on building a multi-band dipole fed with 450 Ohm ladder line soon. I have a K1 K2, both with the ATU's installed, and the BL2 switchable balun. I was wondering if I could connect the balun directly to the back of the K1/K2 when I use this antenna? My other option would be to use one of my 18 foot RG8X jumpers between the rig and the balun. I know someone here has done it, or at least knows whether this will work or not. I am also posting this question to QRP-L, so I apologize if you see this message twice. Thanks ES 73, David KC9EHQ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] RF radiating appliances
I have read a couple of posts, and this is a very interesting topic for me with that I am going to be investigating in the house. As others have stated, certain appliances do radiate RF due to their power supplies and such. This is why it is important to shut down your house and bring it back up room by room/circuit by circuit and see what appliances generate RF. As I have said, it seems as if 40 Meters is almost useless at my location at certain times due to S9+ noise on the band from somewhere in the house or nearby. 73, David KC9EHQ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Tracking down S9+ noise on 40M
Hi All, Could someone please explain the proper way to track down RF noise in and around my house? More often than not, I always have S9+ noise on 40 Meters, making anything but really strong signals (S9+) audible above the noise. I have only had a few instances where the noise was below S9 on 40. I know I have to power down the house and then bring it up one circuit at a time with my radio on battery power. I also know I am supposed to use a handheld AM radio to listen as I walk around the house. I don't know what I should be listening for, or where to tune on AM to hear what I am supposed to hear. Now that I am getting back into operating more regularly, I would really like to see where some of this noise is coming from; and reduce or eliminate it if at all possible even if it means shutting something off while I am on the air. 73, David, KC9EHQ K1-4 s/n 2051 K2/10 s/n 7164 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K2 power out accurate?
Hello All! My friend and I spent yesterday aligning my Norcal 40A and recently finished K2/10 #7164. We really did not play too much with the K2 after we finished aligning as we were also working on some other things in my shack. When I was starting to really get to know the ins and outs of the radio, I noticed that the power out indicated on the display when you adjust the power knob is much higher as indicated on my QRP Wattmeter. I set the radio to around 2.0 W, and the Wattmeter is showing around 5W. When I was at about 5-6 W, I pinned the needle on the Wattmeter. We followed the manual to a T and used a frequency counter, my Wattmeter, a 'scope, and signal generator to do the alignment. Any ideas? Thanks 73, David KC9EHQ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 power out accurate?
Hi Don! As always, thanks for the reply and info...Much appreciated. I am fairly confident of the Wattmeter's readings. It is an Oak Hills Research QRP Wattmeter. I spent a good 1/2 hour getting the correct readings for alignment with my DMM once the kit was finished. My dummy load is from Oak Hills Research as well, and I built it right around the time I built the Wattmeter this past spring. Again, when I made my final measurements with my DMM, I got a reading of 49.9 Ohms. Concerning the Wattmeter, I checked power readings into the Wattmeter using the load with my other HF gear. My Norcal 40A was reading 3 W at key down, my Yaesu was reading within a Watt of the meter, and so was my ICOM. I checked my ICOM against my antenna tuner too, and it was almost spot on. However, I did notice that my K1 was only putting out 1 W per the meter at full drive, but that is an issue for another thread. I was in CW mode when I was noticing this. My K2/10 has the KAT2 installed. I am just wondering if we did something wrong yesterday. We spent a good 3 hours on the procedure. 73, David KC9EHQ From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com To: David Dietrich kc9ehq2...@yahoo.com Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2012 6:03 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 power out accurate? David, Yes, I have several ideas. First of all, how confident are you of your QRP wattmeter readings? Know that typical wattmeters can be in error by as much as 20% of full scale - if the full scale is 10 watts, that is a 2 watt potential error *anywhere* on the meter scale. Secondly, what is the actual impedance of your dummy load? If your dummy load is a good 50 ohm resistive load, I would state that the K2 power indication is more accurate than any external wattmeter - OTOH, if the dummy load is not 50 ohms resistive (check with an antenna analyzer), then your readings can be all over the map. The base K2 power output reading is only accurate if you are driving a load that is 50+j0 - in other words, a perfect 50 ohm load. If one adds the KAT2 or the KAT100 or the KPA100, then that situation changes because those options add a real wattmeter - the basic K2 uses an RF voltage detector which is accurate, but only into a 50 ohm resistive load. In all my testing of the K2 (going on 7 years now), I have found that the K2 power indication is better than most wattmeters - given the condition that the dummy load is a good 50 ohm pure resistive load - in other words, a precision dummy load. Sources of dummy loads meeting my requirements for measurement accuracy, try Ridge Equipment https://www.ridgeequipment.com/store/index.html. They have dummy loads accurate enough for measurement purposes - many dummy loads are sufficient for providing a load on a transceiver, but may not be of measurement quality. 73, Don W3FPR On 1/10/2012 6:23 PM, David Dietrich wrote: Hello All! My friend and I spent yesterday aligning my Norcal 40A and recently finished K2/10 #7164. We really did not play too much with the K2 after we finished aligning as we were also working on some other things in my shack. When I was starting to really get to know the ins and outs of the radio, I noticed that the power out indicated on the display when you adjust the power knob is much higher as indicated on my QRP Wattmeter. I set the radio to around 2.0 W, and the Wattmeter is showing around 5W. When I was at about 5-6 W, I pinned the needle on the Wattmeter. We followed the manual to a T and used a frequency counter, my Wattmeter, a 'scope, and signal generator to do the alignment. Any ideas? Thanks 73, David KC9EHQ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K2 power out accurate? (UPDATE/CLARIFICATION)
Evening All, I neglected to mention this one piece of information with my issue on the K2/10. The pinning of my Wattmeter happens when I have the K2 connected to my outside antenna in this order: K2 to Wattmeter to outside antenna. This is after I do a tune and get a low SWR. My K2 DOES have the KAT2 tuner installed. My antenna is a simple G5RV Jr. I originally said that I had it connected to a dummy load and that was happening. Sorry about that. I did connect the K2 to my Wattmeter, and then to my Dummy Load, and power output was within a Watt or so on different power settings. So, that tells me the Wattmeter is calibrated within tolerances and the power out appears to be accurate. I also verified this with my other HF radios, both kit AND commercially produced. Still, I wonder what would cause my Wattmeter to be pinned at 5W when transmitting into an actual antenna? The Wattmeter is the QRP Wattmeter from Oak Hills Research, and the 100 W dummy load is from them as well. 73, David KC9EHQ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] It's ALIVE!!! ...And a quick alignment question...
Hi All! IT'S ALIVE!!! K2 #7164 is finally up and running as of last night! The SMT diode on the bottom of the board wasn't properly connected to the daughter board. There was a pad, but it wasn't connected to the actual component. A couple hairs of wire fixed everything! Happy Day!! I also have a quick question about installing options and aligning the radio a little more. After I install my options, I might need to tighten up the alignment a little more. As long as I do not have the ATU connected, I can do any alignment with the other options installed without having to remove anything? The options I have are: Noise Blanker, 160 Meters, SSB Module, Audio Filter (not DSP), and the Tuner. Thanks 73, David KC9EHQ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K2 Alignment Part II
Hi Everyone! I am starting the second part of the K2 alignment. I went and redid the first part of the alignment because I tweaked R1 by accident. Some of the numbers came out different than the last time because I had more stuff on the board. I do have a question about the 4 MHz Oscillator Calibration: This may sound like a stupid question, but what am I supposed to be listening for on my receiver when I zero-beat to the crystal? I am hearing a tone, and it changes when I adjust C22, but I am not sure to what tone I need to adjust it to. Any clarification on this would be great! Thanks 73, David KC9EHQ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] (Slightly O/T) Intermittent nips when soldering
Hi Everyone, This has been happening to me frequently ever since I built my KAT-2. I keep the solder I am using coiled in a spring shape in a small tube for easy application. Every so often as I am touching the far end of the solder to either tin the tip of the iron, or else actually solder something, I get a little nip on my finger tip. It feels like a sting/burn, and is no more painful than a pinprick. I have a Weller WES-51 temp controlled soldering station that I got when I built my K1 a few years ago. I take excellent care of my tools, so I am not sure what is going on. This happens intermittently. Any suggestions/ideas?? Thanks ES 73, David KC9EHQ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] (Slightly O/T) Intermittent nips when soldering
Hi Dale, I find it hard to believe it is ESD because my soldering station is grounded and ESD safe. I wear a strap whenever I need to. I work in my ham shack that is my unfinished basement where the temp and humidity stay pretty constant year round. I wear clothes made mostly of cotton. My only guess is that a wire in the cord from the main unit to the pencil is shorting or something, however my soldering station has never been abused or mistreated in any way. Also, one would hope that the actual wired in the cord are insulated from each other. This has only started to happen over the last week or so. 73, David __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] (Slightly O/T) Intermittent nips when soldering
Hi Don, Thanks for the reply. I hope I am doing this right...I attached an alligator clip to the ground pin on the power plug of the soldering station while it was plugged into the outlet. I then attached the other end of the test lead to my DMM. I also attached the lead to my iron tip per your instructions. If this is the right way, I am getting no AC voltage read on my DMM in the 200 or 500 V setting. I am going to Home Depot to get one of those line testers. I unplugged the wand from the unit and inspected the cord. It has no signs of wear or breakage. The unit either resides on the workbench or is stored/transported in my toolbox. I am guessing that this is a power outlet issue, as when I used my lighted magnifier, the bottom of my lip touched a metal handle and I got a tingling feeling. I am stopping the build until I can figure out exactly what the problem is. The last thing I want to do is get really zapped or fry the K2 before it is ever really used. 73, David From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com To: David Dietrich kc9ehq2...@yahoo.com Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Wednesday, August 10, 2011 2:30 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] (Slightly O/T) Intermittent nips when soldering David, I would take an AC voltmeter to that iron (right after you turn it on so it is not yet hot). Measure between the iron tip and the AC safety ground wire (round hole in the receptacle). If you measure *any* AC voltage at all, replace or repair that iron for your own safety's sake. If you are unsure of whether the AC receptacle's green wire safety ground is actually in-place and working, use one of the inexpensive electrical receptacle testers at the receptacle - if you do not have one, they are available at hardware and DIY stores. If the AC safety ground is not intact and you have your ESD mat and wrist strap connected to that ground, you may indeed have an ESD zap, particularly if your work area is carpeted or the humidity is reduced due to AC. IMHO, that is something that must be investigated immediately before it gets any worse and you end up with a good electrical shock - that could be fatal. 73, Don W3FPR On 8/10/2011 3:15 PM, David Dietrich wrote: Hi Dale, I find it hard to believe it is ESD because my soldering station is grounded and ESD safe. I wear a strap whenever I need to. I work in my ham shack that is my unfinished basement where the temp and humidity stay pretty constant year round. I wear clothes made mostly of cotton. My only guess is that a wire in the cord from the main unit to the pencil is shorting or something, however my soldering station has never been abused or mistreated in any way. Also, one would hope that the actual wired in the cord are insulated from each other. This has only started to happen over the last week or so. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] (Slightly O/T) Intermittent nips when soldering
Hi Don, Well, it is the outlet. I just heard a pop and some pyrotechnics from my outlet I bought the AC line tester at Wal-Mart. I first plugged it in at my power strip on the desk. It showed a n open ground. I then tested it at the outlet at the surge protector. OK. I then removed the surge protector, and plugged the tester into the main outlet, and that is when I had the pop and pyrotechnics. Thank God I was wearing shoes and only touching the tester, and the circuit breaker tripped!! As for my workbench, it is made of MDF board. I hope I did not kill any components from this issue. However, I was able to power up things for the initial power on tests. I am ceasing all work down there until I can get an electrician to check the outlet and wiring. This house is only 22 years old, so it should be up to code. We had it inspected when we bought it, and the inspector found no problems with the electrical. We know the builders cut corners when they built this place. I hope they didn't cut any with the electrical. Thanks 73, David KC9EHQ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] (Slightly O/T) Intermittent nips when soldering
Thanks!! The original tester I bought is toast. I went to Home Depot to get a new outlet and cover. I also got a new tester that also tests GFI also. I installed the new outlet and cover and tested it. I got two amber lights. So that outlet is OK. I definitely plan on testing ALL the outlets in the house as well as mapping all the circuits in the house on the breaker. Thanks and 73, David Sent from my iPod __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K2 Control Front Panel Resistence Checks...Do my numbers jive?
Evening Everyone, I am totally done with the control panel, and right at the resistance check part of the front panel on my K2. On some of my readings, I am not getting a reading at all. I have a Meterman multimeter. When the probes are crossed, 0.4 or 0.5 Ohms are considered zero or ground on my meter. I am getting some infinite readings on my meter, even on the 2000k Ohm setting. I just get a 1 at the beginning and nothing else...I am guessing that is infinite. I checked the board for unsoldered components, solder bridges, and the like, and found nothing. Here are the readings I am getting on both boards. Could someone verify that my numbers jive with what I should be getting? CONTROL P2-1==Infinite U5-5V==14.85k U4-8V==3.49k Q1 collector==Infinite Q2 collector==Infinite U3-8==1003k (would that be 1.003 M Ohms?) U6-13==Infinite U6-14==Infinite U6-29==96.6k U6-30==96.7k U8-2==Infinite U8-15==Infinite U8-16==Infinite FRONT PANEL U1-1==29.2k U1-2==29.2k U1-3==48.2k U1-4==Infinite U1-5==24.6k U1-6 to 11==Zero/Ground U1-12==9.85k U1-13 to 40==Infinite J1-1 to 7==Infinite J1-8==Zero/Ground J1-9 to 14==Infinite J1-15==33.7k J1-16==29.2k J1-17==29.2k J1-18==24.6k J1-19==2.67k J1-20==Zero/Ground As always, thanks for the help!! 73, David, KC9EHQ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Front panel standoff question
Hi Everybody! I am finishing the assembly of my K2's front panel, and I installed the two standoffs adjacent to the mic connector. Since they are on top of the board, I notice that they are not going to be attached to anything. Are they just spacers for the front panel PC board and chassis piece so the board is not flexed too much when a mic is removed? Thanks, David __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KAT2 Build Question
Hi All, I consider myself to be a pretty experienced kit builder. Normally I follow the instructions step-by-step, but sometimes I deviate if it will make things go smoother for me. I am working on the KAT2 right now. I am starting the L-C board. The manual says to install all the relays after I installed those small 102 caps. I noticed that other caps go into holes that will be directly under the relays on the other side of the board. My dilemma is that I am concerned that if I don't install those caps BEFORE installing the relays, I run the risk of piercing them with the leads or having solder go through and melt them. I know how fragile the relays are because I nicked one with my soldering iron when I built my K1. It had to be replaced. Conversely, if I install the caps first, I run the risk of not having the relays sit flat...even if I trim the leads beforehand. I know this is a critical issue as space is at a premium on the boards, and it has to fit with it's control board within tight tolerances. Should I follow the instructions, or deviate slightly so I know I won't damage something? The KAT2 is quite possibly the most important option one would buy. 73 es thanks, David KC9EHQ K1-4 s/n 2051 K2 s/n 7164 Sent from my iPod __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KC9EHQ KSB2 Diode Problem SOLVED!!!
Everyone, It looks like I solved the diode problem on my new KSB2 board!!! After taking a day off from building, due to yesterday being a work day, I came back this morning and took some desoldering wick to see if there was anything in the diode holes. There was some stuff in there, and I managed to get all of the diodes in! CRISIS AVERTED!! The KSB2 build can continue. I will post more pics soon, and let the group know. 73, David KC9EHQ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Musings on a K4
I know that many would want to see a do everything K4. However, something like that could price it beyond the reach of most. Also, keeping a rig strictly HF keeps things simple and does not compromise performance. Just my $0.02 for what it's worth. 73, David KC9EHQ Sent from my iPod __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KC9EHQ New KSB2 revision issues
Hi All! I already E-mailed Wayne about this, but I thought I would share this with the rest of the group in case anyone got one of these recently and hasn't assembled it yet. I bought the KSB2 with my K2...Unfortunately, when I bought the radio and options, the KSB2 was out of stock. It took a few weeks to get this option because some components were no longer available, and Wayne and the Elecraft team had to perform some redesign work. I got one of the new boards, and the assembly was going by swimmingly this afternoon until I hit a snag...ALL if the 1N4007 diodes will NOT fit into their holes because the leads are too thick. This is more than a tight fit...They just plain don't want to go in at all. I am not going to attempt to widen the holes on my own as there isn't much real estate to work around, and I don't want to damage traces. Just an FYI, and no need for replies. 73, David, KC9EHQ K1 s/n 2051 K2 s/n 7164 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KC9EHQ New KSB2 revision issues
All, I misspoke when I said all the holes are too small. I made an assumption based on one hole. However, D2 on my board is too tight of a fit on the anode or cathode. I just checked the other holes, per Don's suggestion, and they seem to accept the leads. I assumed that if one was the case, the others would be the same as all the holes look alike in size. 73, David __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K2 (10 W) build album
Hi All! I never did this when I built my K1-4, and I regret it, so I am really documenting the build of my K2. I completed the 160 meter module yesterday, and I hope to have the noise blanker done today. I am building the options first, and then the K2. That way, they will be done and ready to install when the K2 itself is done. I am putting these up on my Facebook page. Here is the link to the album: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1665935347853.66841.1821370858l=622cfd67edtype=1 More pics to follow as the build progresses. Enjoy!! 73, David, KC9EHQ K1-4 s/n 2051 K2 s/n 7164 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Two questions: ESD Solder issue w/ PC Board
Hi Everyone! I have two questions that I would like to pose to the group about grounding and soldering PC boards: 1. I know about ESD precautions, and I do take them. I have a wrist strap, and my soldering iron is ESD safe. I am working on my K2 in the basement. I have pained concrete floors and walls. I sit in a rolling chair that doesn't seem to have any static issues. And, my work table is a painted wood bench. As long as I wear my wrist strap, I should be OK due to the environment I am in, right? I'd be more concerned if I was working in a carpeted room or the like. Unless it is winter and I wear a sweater, I never have ESD problems down in the shack. 2. Has anyone else had this happen to them...You go to solder your components onto the board, and the component or board doesn't want to take the solder immediately? I had this problem with the 160 meter board yesterday. I am using a Weller soldering station with a tip that looks to be in good order, Kester 60/40 solder, and proper technique. Any ideas? 73 Thanks, David KC9EHQ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] What have I gotten myself into???
Hey all! As I am looking at all the documentation that goes along with my K2 (10W) and it's options, I have to ask myself this question: What have I gotten myself into??? I am not a novice kit builder...I have built a K1-4, two other Wilderness Radio QRP radios (Wayne's early work), and some other station gear. However, I think the K2 is by far the most complex kit build I will ever do. I don't think anything else comes close to it except for the Sienna. Well, I know I can do this! It is going to be a lot of fun! I will be snapping some pics of the build and posting them to my Facebook page. Since I cannot attach files to these E-mails, I will attach the link to the photo album for anyone who is interested once I start working on it hopefully starting this week. 73, David, KC9EHQ K2 s/n 7164 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 question on options
Hi Ron! I just bought a K2 after wanting one for the last few years. I haven't built it yet, but here is a rundown of what I got: KNB2-a noise blanker is always nice to have. K160M-not ideal for QRP, but still it is worth trying. KAF2-I am mostly a CW guy. My ICOM and Yaesu both have DSP, and I don't like the audio quality. Sometimes analog filters are better. I have heard that the KAF2 is more intended for the CW crowd. KSB2-although I am a CW guy, I got this option because I wanted the filter options and the better audio fidelity on SSB receive KAT2-since this is going to be one of the QRP rigs I would take on trips, the antenna tuner saves me from having to lug an external one. I did not get the internal battery. I figure a external gel cell can power all my radios in the field. Hope this helps! 73, David KC9EHQ K1 s/n 2051 K2 s/n 7164 Sent from my iPod __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] New Christmas Song (Slightly OT)
Hey All! Please do not turn this into a thread, this thought just popped into my head while I was walking my dog. If Wayne Eric can get the KX3 into production by this fall, many of us will be singing a new song to wives this Christmas Season: All I want for Christmas is a KX3. 73, David, KC9EHQ K1 s/n 2051 K2 s/n 7164 (build forthcoming) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KSB2 Question
Hi All! I have subscribed to this list in the past when I was working on my K1-4 a few year back. I just recently broke down and bought a K2 (10 W) s/n 7164. I'm long overdue to get one, but I figured it was now or never. I am planning on using this rig as a CW only QRP radio. I am not even going to install the mic connector. I have some sheet metal I am going to use to cover the holes for the options I did not get. I am mostly a CW only operator (kind of strange for a 34 y/o), but I do like to listen to SSB when I am just messing around in my shack. I was wondering if the KSB2 option would be worthwhile to get, AND does it affect the K2's performance if you don't align it for transmit? Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks 73, David, KC9EHQ K1-4 s/n 2051 K2 s/n 7164 (starting build soon!) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Thanks to all who helped!
Hello everyone, I just wanted to quickly send out a very big THANK YOU to all who responded to my BL2 antenna question. The insight and help I got from various people across the US was WONDERFUL! I am really glad this forum exists for us Elecraft enthusiasts. A quick follow up: I did purchase the BL2 kit. I am hoping it gets to me by Friday, so I can build it at my club's construction project time every other Saturday during the fall and winter. I then look forward to building a suitable antenna to take to Texas at Christmas. 73 7 Thanks, David KC9EHQ K1-4 #2051 PS: One of these days I need to break down and get a K2! __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] BL2 Question Follow Up
Whoops! I should have added this when I was composing last night. I have the KAT1 tuner installed. At the present, my four band module is for 40, 30, 20, 15. I plan on at least operating on 40 20 for sure, and possibly 15 if the SWR isn't too bad. Original message below for reference: Howdy Everyone, I am seriously considering the purchase construction of a BL2 switched balun so I can construct a lighter dipole antenna for field use than the dipole I have been using with my K1-4 (#2051). I am planning on taking the K1 down to TX over Christmas and I don't want to take the heavier dipole I have with me like I did this past summer. It's rather bulky and takes up valuable suitcase space. Here is my plan: Construct a 20 and/or 40 meter 1/2 wave dipole and feed it using standard TV twin-lead as my feedline (found in any hardware/home improvement store), and some #18 wire (I have some on hand). Since the antenna would be balanced, I would attach the twin-lead to the balun and the balun to the back of my K1. I am thinking that this design would make for a good performing, lightweight antenna that will be easier to pack set up. Questions: 1. Will the BL2 work well with TV twin-lead antenna I am going to build? There's no sense in buying it if it won't work with this antenna. 2. What kind of luck have those of you who have built it had with fitting it into some sort of plastic or metal enclosure? What works and what won't? 3. Will I need to do any sort of grounding with this? I'd really like responses from those who either (A) own one OR (B) do a lot of antenna homebrewing experimentation. Many thanks, David KC9EHQ K1-4 #2051 __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] BL2 Question
Howdy Everyone, I am seriously considering the purchase construction of a BL2 switched balun so I can construct a lighter dipole antenna for field use than the dipole I have been using with my K1-4 (#2051). I am planning on taking the K1 down to TX over Christmas and I don't want to take the heavier dipole I have with me like I did this past summer. It's rather bulky and takes up valuable suitcase space. Here is my plan: Construct a 20 and/or 40 meter 1/2 wave dipole and feed it using standard TV twin-lead as my feedline (found in any hardware/home improvement store), and some #18 wire (I have some on hand). Since the antenna would be balanced, I would attach the twin-lead to the balun and the balun to the back of my K1. I am thinking that this design would make for a good performing, lightweight antenna that will be easier to pack set up. Questions: 1. Will the BL2 work well with TV twin-lead antenna I am going to build? There's no sense in buying it if it won't work with this antenna. 2. What kind of luck have those of you who have built it had with fitting it into some sort of plastic or metal enclosure? What works and what won't? 3. Will I need to do any sort of grounding with this? I'd really like responses from those who either (A) own one OR (B) do a lot of antenna homebrewing experimentation. Many thanks, David KC9EHQ K1-4 #2051 __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K1 C78 for 80 Meters
Hello All, I hope that those of us in the US are enjoying the holiday weekend. I have a question about the C78 capacitor for 80 Meters on the K1. As I said in previous posts, My K1, once built, will be capable of all six bands. With that being said, If this capacitor is to help with 80 Meters, what does it do to performance if I don't have the band module that contains 80 installed? This is coming from an alignment and operational standpoint. Any clarification on this would help. Thanks, David KC9EHQ Yahoo! Sports Rekindle the Rivalries. Sign up for Fantasy Football http://football.fantasysports.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K1 Tuning Range Quandary
Good Evening All K1-4 Owners, Construction of the K1 itself starts tomorrow evening after work! When I got my K1, I opted for the 4-band radio as primary, and I purchased the two-band module extra. For my four-band I chose: 40-30-20-15. I have 80 17 for the two band module. It is starting to become decision time for me, and I am in a quandary. Do I choose 80 or 150 KHz as my tuning range? I know the manual says that if you are building a four-band radio (Which I am), you should choose the 80 KHz tuning range. However, I am wondering how much coverage/bandwidth I am losing/missing out on if I do choose 80 KHz. With the 10-turn potentiometer, it means approximately 8 or 15 Khz per revolution of the knob. I'd like to poll all K1 owners out there and see WHAT you chose and, more importantly, WHY. I'd also like to know HOW you feel about the decision since you have had a chance to use your rig. If Eric or Wayne is reading this post, I'd really like to hear your thoughts as well. The last thing I want to do is go back in and change the bandwidth once it is built. Those thru-hole connections are tough to desolder! I thank you all in advance for your input. 73, David A. Dietrich KC9EHQ __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Two Questions
Greetings DE KC9EHQ, I am a little over 1/2 way through my KNB1 before I start on my anniversary present (K1). My lab is set up in our basement where I have my table in front of a window. I do have a small oscillating fan blowing air out the window. Is that enough to keep the solder fumes to a minimum, or do I need a window fan? I will only be working on this for about 2 hours/session until the radio is completed. I'd work upstairs at the kitchen table, but the XYL doesn't want this stuff upstairs. Any suggestions as to what others have done would be helpful. My other question concerns the three capacitors on the bottom of the Rev. C board. Are they supposed to be mounted so they are lying flat against the board as opposed to the way you would mount them if they were on top? Any help is always great! Thanks 73, David KC9EHQ __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KNB1 Rev. C vs. Rev. D
Hello All, I am doing things a little backwards here. I am building the KNB1 first as a warm up before tackling my K1-4. My noise blanker shows Revision C, and the manual makes references to both Revisions C D. Is there any real performance differences in the two, or does Revision D take into account the two items on the Errata sheer for Revision C? Any insight would be helpful. Thanks, David Dietrich KC9EHQ __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
