[Elecraft] K3 For Sale
Hi It looks like I will need to sell my K3 SN/575 The radio is equipped as follows: K3/100 100 watt radio KBPF3General Coverage pass filter KFL3A-400400 HZ 8 pole filter for CW KFL3A-2.8KHz 2.8 khz 8 pole filter for SSB/PSK31 KFL3A-FM 13 KHz FM filter for FM Heil Proset boom mike headset New in box Heil/Elecraft MD-2 desk mike USB/RS232 adapter RS232/USB cable, PowerPole power cable, UHF/BNC adapter and manual Assembled ready to go I will install current standard or current beta firmware and install any mods you want per the Elecraft website. $2000 shipped con US by UPS insured (Current Elecraft price list at over $2700) I also have a bunch of studio camera, lighting equipment and astronomy equipment for sale contact me off list if interested. (way too many hobbies) Thanks Don Brown KD5NDB 903 894 8353 Home 903 245 8717 Cell __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K3 FS
Hi It looks like I will need to sell my K3 SN/575 The radio is equipped as follows: K3/100100 watt radio KBPF3band GC pass filter KFL3A-400400 HZ 8 pole filter KFL3A-2.8KHz2.8 khz 8 pole filter KFL3A-FM13 KHz FM filter Prosetboom mike headset New in box Elecraft MD-2 desk mike USB adapter Assembled ready to go but will need firmware upgrade and any optional mods listed on the Elecraft website. $2500 Thanks Don Brown KD5NDB K3 S/N 0575 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Questions from a Liberal Arts Major
Hi PowerPoles can be locked together with a small 'U shaped piece of stiff wire run through the holes between the red and black blocks after plugging in the connectors. I do this on my solar panel setup to keep the connectors in place even if the wires get pulled. Thanks Don Brown KD5NDB K3 S/N 0575 -- From: David Pratt [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2008 10:08 AM To: Jan Erik Holm [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Questions from a Liberal Arts Major In a recent message, Jan Erik Holm [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote ... 12V power connector, does not have a positive lock, i e can come loose if radio is moved. Again IMO this is junk. Have you assembled the connector correctly, Jim? Both my K3 and my XV144 Anderson power connectors go in with a definite 'click' and neither of them have come apart unintentionally even when the equipment is moved. Being digital, the S-meter has incremental steps of one S-point which is accurate enough for most practical purposes. In any case, everyone is 599 or 59 in contests ;-) 73 -- David G4DMP Leeds, England, UK -- ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Mystery Part
Hi This sounds like the mounting pad for the speaker shield. Check the assembly manual page 46. This pad is usually already installed inside the shield and you just remove the paper backing and stick it to the back of the speaker. Elecraft may be now supplying the pad separate from the shield or you may have an extra one. Don -- From: Brad Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2008 1:01 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Mystery Part I just completed the parts inventory of my K3 and the accessories. I'm pleased to report that with the exception of the 6 kHz filter that is backordered, all components and hardware appear to be present and accounted for. I have one part that doesn't show up on any of my parts lists. It is a rubber disc approximately 1 inch in diameter and 1/4 inch thick, with an adhesive backing. It looks like it could be used as a foot for the chassis, but is not listed as such. . I quickly glanced through the assembly manual and didn't see a reference to it. Perhaps I overlooked something? Can anyone tell me what it is used for? Thanks and 73, Brad AA5CH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power Supply
Hi Yes I have used a MFJ-4125 and it is very quiet both RF and fan noise. I also have a 4225-MV and A 4245-MV . The 4225-MV is the same as the 4125 except it has lighted volt and amp meters and a pot on the front panel to adjust the voltage. I use the 4225-MV for a bench supply when I work on radio equipment and The 4245-MV runs my shack, a K3 and a Kenwood TMD-700 2 meter/440 radio. I use Rigrunners and Anderson PowerPoles on everything Thanks Don Brown KD5NDB K3 S/N 0575 Kenwood TMD-700 -- From: Lennart Michaëlsson [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, April 18, 2008 7:14 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Power Supply Any good ideas? Presently using an old (and heavy) Yeasy power supply, working very well but - like many others I plan to bring my K3 on trips as well. Anyone tested the MFJ-4125? In that case: How about the noise level? Any other/better low weight switching power supplies? Must say the K3 performs very well and has exceeded my expectations. Len SM7BIC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 AM operation with FM roofing filter?
Hi The short answer is - YES I have the FM in slot 1 but do not have the AM filter. I have the 2.8 Khz in slot 3 and the 400 hz filter in slot 4. I get 3 KHz bandwidth with the FM filter on AM broadcast stations. If I crank the bandwidth above 2.8 Khz the K3 switches to the FM filter but it is limited to 3 KHZ with the current firmware. Thanks Don Brown KD5NDB K3 S/N 0575 -- From: ab2tc [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, April 12, 2008 4:24 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 AM operation with FM roofing filter? Hi, I am still confused as to whether I can *receive* AM with the FM roofing filter with the *current* firmware. Can someone please give me an authoritative answer on this? I have just received the FM filter and the included note seems to imply that I have to wait for an firmware update. I am not asking whether I can get more than 3kHz audio BW on AM with but just simply if it will work? Knut - AB2TC wb8yqj wrote: So would operation without the AM filter be bad enough to roughly approximate, say, a Heath DX100? Just about the same as would suit me just fine but if not maybe I need a wider filter? My guys are hard to please and I know they're not going to be happy with the new rig's weight already. ;-) = I've not put this on the FAQ yet, but yes you can use the FM filter for AM. But be advised it will degrade performance some with reguard to selectivity. In transmit, the DSP will work with the filter and determine the TX BW. The exact specs on this are not yet available. 73 Greg AB7R ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- View this message in context: http://www.nabble.com/Re%3A-K3-AM-operation-with-%22FM%22-roofing-filter--tp14077620p16656659.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2: SWR Accuracy
Hi Your numbers look normal to me. You may be able to improve the calibration using a 100 and 25 ohm load. This is how I do the calibration. First get it into the ball park with the manual calibration method Then alternate with the 100 and 25 ohm load and adjust C55 to get the same reverse reading Increase the reverse pot to indicate 2.0 SWR and check at both loads for the same reading tweak C55 if needed Go back and adjust the forward power to agree with your external calibrated meter with a 50 ohm load Check the 25 and 100 ohm SWR readings again for a 2.0 value. The forward and reverse settings will interact so you may need to do all of the above several times to get it set up correctly. Your loads should not have cables connected to them. They should connect directly to the tuner connectors. I built my loads into standard UHF connectors (PL-239) and use BNC adapters for the KAT2 or directly for the KAT100. I used two 51 ohm in parallel for the 25 ohm, one 100 ohm for the 100 ohm load and two 100 ohm resistors in parallel for the 50 ohm load. The resistors are 2 and 5 watt MOS types and mounted inside the connector. It is OK to use a cable with the 50 ohm load when using the WM-2 but as a final check I connect the 50 ohm load directly to the KAT2 and check for a 1.0:1 reading Thanks Don Brown KD5NDB K3 S/N 0575 -- From: Michael Linden [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, April 08, 2008 7:02 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] KAT2: SWR Accuracy I've just completed alignement of my KAT2 and am a bit dismayed by its SWR accuracy. I feel pretty confident that I found the true dip in C55 at a value of 12. I then aligned the forward power (R1) using an OHR WM-2 that was aligned on 40m against test equipment. The 50 Ohm dummy load I'm using reads a flat 1.0:1 up into the 2m region on an MFJ-259B. I'm fairly happy with the forward calibration which yielded the following results: BAND K2WM-2 160 4.4 5.0 804.6 5.0 404.9 5.0 305.2 5.0 204.9 4.9 175.0 5.0 155.1 4.9 125.5 5.0 105.6 5.0 I initially calibrated reflected power (R2) by measuring the wiper-to-ground resistance on R1 and setting R2 for the same wiper-go-ground resistance. The reflected calibration results range from 1.0:1 on 160m to 1.2:1 on 10m into the 50 Ohm dummy load. However, the SWR readings I see when using a 25 Ohm dummy load (confirmed on MFJ-259B) aren't very good. The KAT2's 25 Ohm dummy load readings range from 1.7:1 on 160m to 1.2:1 on 10m. Given the preceding results, I decided to set the reflected adjustment (R2) to show 2.0:1 on 40m into the 25 Ohm dummy load. This time, the results varied from 2.1:1 on 160m to 1.3:1 on 10m. I have considered going back and readjusting R2 to show an average reading of 2.0:1 across the bands into the 25 Ohm load (higher than 2.0:1 on 160m, lower than 2.0:1 on 10m -- a compromise). Is the accuracy displayed above typical of the KAT2? If not, maybe I need to go back and reevaluate my C55 calibration (although I felt pretty confident that it is correct). Thanks, Michael N9BDF, K2 #4137 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] USB to Serial Converter
Hi I have found that the Cables Unlimited #USB-2920 works well with my K3. I wanted a cable specifically USB 2.0 and Vista compatible. I have a XP laptop and my desktop is Vista I also have a OQO palmtop that runs Vista. This adapter looks somewhat like a flash memory drive with a USB connector on one end and the 9 pin RS-232 connector on the other. I comes with a male to female USB extension cable and a disk with drivers for Windows 98, 2000, XP, Vista and Mac. Several other adapters I looked at did not indicate they would work with Vista. I had no problems connecting my OQO through my WiFi network to my K3 with this adapter running Vista. I ordered the adapter from Buy.com for about $14 plus shipping. Thanks Don Brown KD5NDB K3 S/N 0575 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] APP roll pins
Hi I have been using these for several years and they are on all of my 12 volt stuff. I mounted a 5 circuit RigRunner on my work bench that I can plug into to power radios I am working on. I have used the roll pins but do not use them any more. If you are careful to make the wires exactly the same length the connectors will not tend to come apart. I have found the glue for PVC pipe works well to glue the connectors. I like it better than super glue. Use a tiny bit on one side before you slide the dovetails together. If you think you need a roll pin glue a toothpick into the hole for the pin and clip off the excess with flush cutters. If it ever does come out at least it will not short out anything. Thanks Don Brown KD5NDB K3 S/N 0575 -- From: John [K7SVV] [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, April 06, 2008 1:03 PM To: K3KO [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] APP roll pins K3KO's response is the best I have read in this thread so far and I agree 100%. I have been using and putting up with these APP's for at least 6-7 years and have learned that I always crimp them using a cheap crimper and I always solder them too. It took a while for me to learn (I am a slow learner) that you must crimp it near the edge where the wire goes into the connector. Stay as far away as you can from the contact end so that you don't deform it to the point where you can't insert it into the housing. I don't use heat shrink tubing but I may in the future. I know many of you don't agree but this is what works best for me. To me the APP's are a pain to assemble and they are not reliable because they come apart too easy even though they snap together properly. I had to get these remarks in before Eric pulls the plug which should be any day now. John[K7SVV] P.S. I use the roll pin. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Katiegram - Stay or go, yes or no
Hi Stay with the kit. It saves $240 and only requires a few hours of turning a screwdriver, plugging in circuit boards and messing about with the menus for the calibration. Really easy stuff, really good manual and you will feel better about knowing a little about the works inside in case you want to add an option or two later. Thanks Don Brown KD5NDB K3 S/N 0575 -- From: Darwin, Keith [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 10:22 AM To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Katiegram - Stay or go, yes or no Just call me Mr. Waffle. I ordered a K3 at the end of Sept 07. Yea, I want one but paying for it is not quite so easy to swallow. No biggie, I have months to think about it. With the shipment of my K3 approaching, I made a few changes. Added 100 watt PA, CW filter and finally switched to factory built. I'm still not completely sure I want to go through with it, but I have time ... Yesterday I got my Katiegram. My time is up. I have to decide whether to stay or go. Total price is about $2200. I knew it would be that much but somehow seeing it in an invoice makes it very real. I suppose I could drop back to the K3/10 kit but that's not what I ultimately would want. I could go K3/100 kit but truth is I just don't have the time right now to put it together. When I look at that $2200 bill, I wonder if I should just make the time. I feel like a kid who has climbed the high-dive and is standing with his toes hanging over the edge of the board, nervous and unsure, wondering what he's gotten himself into. Mr. Waffle, signing out for now .. - Keith N1AS - - K2 5411.ssb.100 - - K3 (in the on-deck circle as we speak) - ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: re [Elecraft] bandwidth select on am mode re K3
Hi Well for now even with the FM filter you are limited to 6Khz on AM. But there is a new version coming that will allow more bandwidth per an email from Lyle Don Brown KD5NDB K3 s/n 0575 with FM filter -- From: AD6XY - Mike [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 3:55 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: RE: re [Elecraft] bandwidth select on am mode re K3 Great - But why only 6kHz and why can't one use the FM filter? It should still be as good if not better than a normal communications receiver. While I am at it - I want 10kHz audio bandwidth on SSB. This is for decoding DRM. Mike Eric - WA6HHQ wrote: In response to popular demand, we're going to increase the AM b/w display 2X to match the IF b/w in the next K3 s/w release. :-) So for the 6 kHz AM filter it will display 6 kHz max instead of 3 kHz. 73, Eric WA6HHQ -- View this message in context: http://www.nabble.com/re-bandwidth-select-on-am-mode-re-K3-tp16310886p16334548.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Wattmeter Calib
Hi When I first did this calibration I could not get above about 4.7 watts at the 5 watt calibration. The number indicated on the LCD would not go below 30 and ended up set to 30 even though the power out was still low. The same with the 50 watt calibration. After downloading the latest firmware (1.78) This works better. I could bring the power up to 5 watts before I ran out of range on the adjustment. The 5 watt number is 77 and the 50 watt number is 65 indicated on the LCD. I am not sure if the transmit gain interacts with this adjustment but to be safe I would do the transmit gain first then the wattmeter. This could also be the reason my wattmeter calibration worked because I had done the transmit gain and then went back a redid the wattmeter. So I am not sure the firmware upgrade or the calibration order fixed the problem. Thanks Don Brown KD5NDB -- From: Ron Chambers [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 8:24 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Wattmeter Calib When you have gone to the config menu to do the wattmeter calibration (WTMR) in the low power 5watt range, do all of you get a display that can vary from 30 up to 150, with LP then off to the right? Do you never get a 0-12 LP indication? And then when you increase to 50w you get the same 30 to 150 with HP shown to the right? Ron N5QQ K3 #594 is sort of on the air ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: Re[Elecraft] ccomended KXV3 wiring
Hi Its been a while since I built a K2/multi transverter setup but you only need 4 wires for each transverter. Pins 6, 8, 9 and 1 on the transverter 9 pin connector. These are all daisy chained to each transverter. The only difference in the K2 and K3 would be the 15 pin on the K3 end or a 9 pin for a K2. For the K3 connector pin 2 (AUXBUS) connects to pin 6 on the transverter. Pin 7 (XVTR ON) connects to pin 8 on the transverter. Pin 10 (KEYOUT-LP) connects to pin 9 on the transverter. The ground pin 5 or 12 connects to pin 1 on the transverter. Don Brown KD5NDB -- From: AD6XY - Mike [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2008 3:03 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re[Elecraft] ccomended KXV3 wiring What is the recommended way to make up the connectors between the 15 pin K3IO interface and a series of XV transverters? There are other signals on the 15 pin connector not associated with transverting. I am wondering how to make up a suitable cable to extend the 15 pin port and to add the transverter connections. With the K2 cables and connectors are daisy chained. With the high density 15 pin connector it might be difficult wiring up all the signals in such a small space, let alone fitting two wires onto some of the pins. It is almost worth making up a breakout PCB and using a standard 15pin-15pin cable - assuming nobody else has produced one of these. Mike -- View this message in context: http://www.nabble.com/Reccomended-KXV3-wiring-tp16269976p16269976.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: Re[Elecraft] ccomended KXV3 wiring
Hi I don't think a 15 pin Y adapter is going to be useful in connecting a transverter unless you are also connecting some other peripherals like a PA or band decoder that require I/O pins in the 15 pin connector in addition to the 4 pins required for the transverters. If you are thinking of using the Y adapter to connect several transverters then you will still need to make up 15 to 9 pin adapters with the proper pins connected for the transverters. The simplest solution id to make up a 4 wire cable with one 15 pin connector for the K3 and one or more 9 pin connectors for each transverter daisy chained. The cable details are shown in the transverter manual for a K2. For the K3 the 9 pin connector is replaced with a 15 pin D type connector and is wired as described in the K3 manual Don Brown KD5NDB -- From: Phil Debbie Salas [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2008 11:36 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re[Elecraft] ccomended KXV3 wiring The SVGA Y-adapter I found at Fry's Electronics had all 15 pins wired straight across. MAybe I was just lucky. Phil - AD5X Brian Alsop wrote: Be careful. Most VGA cables are missing wire connections to various pins. For example pins 4 and 11 are almost always missing. Pin 9 sometimes. I have one cable that has only 9 wires. These are not unimportant pins to many of us. The fact that all pins are sometimes present in the connector, doesn't mean the wires are there. Check out any cable you get with an ohmmeter to make sure the lines you want are present. There are many ground return connections in the standard SVGA pinout, so some of those wires may actually be shields. They might also be connected together. This is looking less and less like a good idea... ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Don Brown the Solar Controller Man?
Hi I am still here :-) I must have missed your e-mails sorry Don Brown - Original Message - From: KEN [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Wednesday, December 20, 2006 8:40 AM Subject: [Elecraft] Don Brown the Solar Controller Man? Hello Solar fans, Had been regularly communicating with Don Brown KD5NDB for a while on a sloar project. Haven't received any response from my latest two e-mails on Dec 9th or the 13th. Hope all is OK. Dose anyone know if there's a problem? Thanks...Ken W2GIW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K1 -- VW Solar Panel -- Controller Help
Hi I have tested my controller with a VW panel and a 2.8 amp hour battery. This setup WILL fully charge the battery and the controller will start cycling with the panel in full sun, but if the battery is discharged it may take several days to bring the battery up to full charge. The VW panels are very low power about 3 watts at best or about 180 mA. It would require over 14 hours of full sun on the panel to charge a discharged 2.35 amp hour battery. If the panel is not perpendicular to the sun the output will be lower and would require even longer to charge the battery. You may have a battery with a bad cell. You may want to try charging it with a battery charger designed for gel cells or connect it to a power supply set to 13.8-14.5 with a limiting resistor of about 5-10 ohms at 10 watts. If the terminal voltage of the battery will not come up to 13.8 or higher the battery is most likely bad. You do not need a current limiting supply to test the controller. Any power supply with an output of 15 to 25 volts will work in place of the solar panel if you install a limiting resistor in series with the power supply of about 5-10 ohms and about 5-10 watts. If you have any variable power supply that can be adjusted from 13.0 to 14.2 volts you can follow the instructions supplied with my controller to check the operation of the controller. The current required for this test is only about 20 mA so any type of variable power supply should work. If you still cannot get the controller to work send it back to me and I will test it for proper operation and repair or replace it if required Thanks Don Brown KD5NDB 19132 Falls Creek Drive Flint, Texas 75762 - Original Message - From: KEN [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 9:42 AM Subject: [Elecraft] K1 -- VW Solar Panel -- Controller Help Hello folks, Have a new 2.3SLA battery I'm trying to charge for the K1. Here the problem I'm having. The battery started out at about 9.6V and is now at 12.10V or so after charging for several days on and off. The VW panel reads about 20V in full sun. When connected to Don Brown's low power controller, it drops to 12.75V (full sun). I have a few panels and tried them allsame results. Even paralleled two. The controller will cut-off around 14.0V. Needless to say, this one will never make it to cut-off. I'm wondering if there is a problem with the controller. Don says the panel connection point at the controller should read about 15V. I don't have a current limiting supply to test the controller the way the instruction sheet suggests. Any thoughts appreciated, ThanksKen...W2GIW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] GellCell Charging with bulb
Hi Maybe I can help. Gel cells should not be allowed to discharge below 10 volts and charged above 14.5 volts or damage may result. If you want to maintain a float charge on the battery you should set the power supply to 13.8 volts and limit the current to about 1/3 of the rated amp hour of the battery. You can do this with a current limiting power supply or you can use a resistor in series with the battery to limit the current. When the battery is fully charged the current draw at 13.8 volts will be only a few mA. If the battery is discharged then the current can be quiet high without some form of current limit. The difference between 13.8 volts and say 11 volts in a discharged state is 2.8 volts. So in the worst case you need to calculate the the resistor value that would limit the current to 1/3 of the amp hour rating of the battery. In the case of a 7 amp hour battery that is 2.33 amps. 2.8/2.33 is 1.2 ohms. I have some 4 watt 12 volt lamps used in low voltage outdoor lighting that read 3.4 ohms cold this should work for you or a dash lamp for a car or even a car tail light as long as it is 1.2 ohms or higher. Do not set the power supply higher than 13.8 volts even with the limiting resistor (bulb) as the battery will continue to charge to whatever the power supply is set to. Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: Thom R LaCosta [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Elecraft email elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2006 4:40 PM Subject: [Elecraft] GellCell Charging with bulb Realizing certain pitfalls, can someone tell me what typle of bulb I can put in series between a dc source and a 7 ah gell cell to maintain a charge on it...I have more gell cells than proper chargers, and my thought was to get them up to full charge with a real charger and then use the series bulb to maintain the charge. Thanks 73,Thom-k3hrn www.zerobeat.net Home of QRP Web Ring, Drakelist home page,Drake Web Ring, QRP IRC channel, Drake IRC Channel, Elecraft Owners Database www.tlchost.net/hosting/ *** Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: Re: [Elecraft] New KPA100 Rev.
Hi My company manufactures a small controller used on aerobic sewage treatment plants. I have over 50,000 of them installed. One of the requirements is to seal all of the electrical wiring where it enters the controller box using silicone rubber. This is to keep chlorine, HS2 and water vapor out of the box. We provide a 4 Oz tube of GE Silicone II so our installers will not use the wrong type of silicone. The Silicone II is alcohol based rather than Acetic acid based (vinegar). I have received several circuit boards returned with green corrosion on the resistor leads and circuit traces due to the wrong type of silicone used. We found this because the silicone we provide is clear and the installer had used white bathroom calk bought at the local hardware store. I guess he lost the tube we provided in the parts kit. I would not recommend any adhesive be used on any Elecraft kit just as it states in the manual. The wire leads are strong enough to hold the toroids. If you must use something I would suggest a small strip of double stick foam tape. Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2006 9:35 AM Subject: RE: Re: [Elecraft] New KPA100 Rev. David, I beg to disagree, some time ago I used some of the 'vinegar' stuff on a splice with insulated copper wire (#14 THHN) - and I can say that the bad stuff keeps creeping for a long way. After a couple years, I had occasion to examine it and found the stuff had crept up under the insulation and caused corrosion as much as 6 inches from the point where it was applied - It did make a good weather seal, but at the cost of electrical properties loss. Fortunately, this was not in any critical application. No longer will I use commonly available RTV direcly in electronics applications - even the consumer grade 'non-corrosive' RTV commonly available that I bought recently had a vinegar smell to it. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I think too much is made of so-called corrosive RTV (it's the vinegar). The level of corrosion to bare metal is very small and in free air stops fairly quickly. For other components bathroom sealant is perfectly adequate. Enamelled copper wire and toroids should be immune anyway. David G3UNA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Solar Controller Kits
Hi I still have solar controller kits for sale. These kits will control the charging of a gel cell or flooded lead acid battery. The battery can be any size from about 1 amp hour to over 100 amp hours. I have two versions. A low power version that will work with solar panels up to about 40 watts and a high power version that will handle up about 200 watts of panels. The controller is an analog design that does not generate any RF noise. The kit includes a fiberglass silk screened and solder masked circuit board and all parts needed to complete the board. I include 6 pages of documentation and application notes. The low power version is $20 or $35 for two kits with one set of instructions. The high power version is $30 or $55 for two kits with one set of instructions Order with a check or money order from Don Brown KD5NDB 19132 Falls Creek Drive Flint, Texas 75762 Thanks Don ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Solar Controller Kit
Hi There seems to be some confusion about my two controller kits The High power controller will work fine with a small panel. The kits are identical except for the blocking diode and power FET. The low power uses a 6 amp FET and a 3 amp diode while the high power uses a 75 amp FET and two 8 amp diodes. You can also add a second 3 amp diode to the low power kit to increase the power to about 70 watts. If you think you may go big at some time I would suggest the high power kit. I have used the high power controller with a 110 amp hour gel cell battery and 150 watts of solar panels as well as a 2.6 amp hour battery and a 3 watt solar panel and it works great with either. The low power kit is less expensive and is fine for small panels. A 3-5 watt panel and a small SLA battery of 2-7 amp hours works fine for a K1 or KX1. A QRP K2 would need a 10-15 watt panel with the same battery. A K2/100 would need a 35 to 100 amp hour battery and 80 to 100 watt panel. All of this this explained in the documentation and application notes that I supply with the kit. Thanks Don Brown KD5NDB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 for sale - price reduced
Hi I have a friend with a Fully loaded K2 for sale K2 B model I don't know the serial number KPA100 100 watt amp KNB2 Noise blanker KSB2 sideband module KDSP2DSP module K160M160 meter aux antenna KBT2 internal battery option in standard QRP lid KAT2 20 watt tuner in above lid KAT100 150 watt external tuner The radio is owned by John Cooper WT5Y. John does not currently have internet access so you will need to reach him by phone at 1 409 347 0532. John is asking $1600 for all of the above Thanks Don Brown KD5NDB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Solar Panels
Hi
I sell the low power solar controller kits.
You can order them from me at
Don Brown
19132 Falls Creek Drive
Flint Texas 75762
cash check or money order only
The low power version will handle from 1 to 35 watts and the price is $20 or
$35 for two with one set of documentation
The kit includes the circuit board and all parts required to build the
controller. You will need to supply a box or
build it into your battery box or radio.
I also have a high power version that will handle up to 200 watts for $30 or
$55 for two
Thanks
Don
KD5NDB
snip
I also have a K2 and a solar panel with rechargeable battery is my main
power source for it. I am using a normal 7 AH sealed lead acid battery
which resides in the shack. I have a 10W solar panel. It is a very nice
high quality unit made by BP which I bought over the internet for about
$125. This matches up nicely with the 7AH battery and the K2 current draw.
I use a Don Brown charge controller which I built from one of his kits. I
can highly recommend this also (no connection to either). If you search the
Elecraft reflector for Don Brown and/or Charge controller you should
come up with info about ordering the kit - as I recall it was only about
$25. It will allow charging from either a modest size solar panel or from a
power supply.
The solar panel puts out about 650 mA in full sun which is about the desired
upper limit of the charge rate for this sized battery. The wiring between
the panel and the battery is non-critical - I use AWG18 - since the current
is limited and you don't care about voltage drop since the open circuit
output voltage of the panel is over 16V.
I used this setup on Field Day this year but with the K2 turned down to 5W.
The battery kept me going all night and the solar panel took over and
refreshed things on Sunday. The setup does work - even for contests.
Let me know if you would like more info
73
Craig AC0DS
___
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Re: [Elecraft] Battery use with QRP rigs - page updated
HI In addition to my experimenting with solar power and SLA batteries I have also done some playing around with NiMH batteries. There are several manufacturers making 2700 mAHr AA cells and 700-800 mAHr AAA cells. I use many sets of these batteries for digital camera equipment and I have tried several brands. I have found the Maha Powerex AA cells to be reliable and conservatively rated. I have 30-40 of them and have never had one fail in several years of use although I have had several batteries from other makers fail or refuse to take a charge. I also have several chargers including the Maha MH-C801 8 cell fast charger, the Maha MH-C401FS and the La Crosse BC-900. All of these chargers charge each cell separately rather than several in series. They are all microprocessor controlled and will charge the high capacity AA cells in about an hour. A 10 cell NiMH pack can be charged with a solar panel without a controller. As long as the panel supplies around 1/10 C you can leave the batteries on charge almost indefinitely. For the 2700 mAHr batteries this is 270 ma so a 5 watt panel with a 350 mA maximum output could be left connected all day without worry of damaging the battery pack. Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: Leigh L Klotz, Jr. [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Monday, June 12, 2006 12:26 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Battery use with QRP rigs - page updated Dan, I have used the same 10 cell AA holder from Mouser for about a year with the 2500mAH cells from Energizer. I also recently bought the BatterySpace 2500mAH Lipo pack from http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPRODProdID=2335 and will be testing the both in real-world condx with my KX1. Here are a few suggestions for folks trying the NiMH AA's: 1. Use a little DeOxit on the springs and tabs and battery ends. 2. Tape around the + and - ends of the batteries to keep them in tight, and to protect against shorts; ditto for the two long edges of the battery case. 3. If you charge with a pack charger, break down the pack and test the cell voltages after it's discharged. I found I had some cells that had fallen to 0.9v but the rest were 1.2v to 1.3v even under moderate load. I've started using a Ray-o-Vac 4-cell charger that charges each cell individually, and breaking them down. This seeems to result in more even charging and makes the pack last longer per charge. I understand that there are 8-cell and 10-cell chargers that charge each battery separately, and if I hadn't invested in Lipo I probably would get one of those. The 4-cell charger was $19, so it wasn't a big cost. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Fully Loaded K2 for sale
Hi I have a friend with a Fully loaded K2 for sale K2 B model I don't know the serial number KPA100 100 watt amp KNB2 Noise blanker KSB2 sideband module KDSP2DSP module K160M160 meter aux antenna KBT2 internal battery option in standard QRP lid KAT2 20 watt tuner in above lid KAT100 150 watt external tuner The radio is owned by John Cooper WT5Y. John does not currently have internet access so you will need to reach him by phone at 1 409 347 0532. John is asking $1995 for all of the above Thanks Don Brown KD5NDB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Solar controllers for Field Day
Hi Field Day is not that far away and you can get those extra points if you are operating with solar power. I have two solar controller kits that will keep your battery charged with solar power. My new low power solar controller uses the same circuit and PC board as my high power kit but replaces the more expensive 75 amp power FET and two 8 amp shottkey diodes with a less expensive 12 amp power FET and a 3 amp shottkey diode. This version also does not need the heat sink on the FET as well. I include 6 pages of instructions, schematic, check out, circuit description, application notes and information on proper sizing of panels and batteries. There is a page of notes on using the controller with a K2, K1 or KX1. The low power controller and a small 2.8 amp hour gel cell battery can be built into a EC1 box that will match the K1 or K2. A 5 watt solar panel is fine for a K1 or KX1 and the QRP K2 needs about 10-15 watts The new low power version will work with solar panels from 3 watts to 35 watts (I include information on increasing this to 70 watts) It can charge SLA batteries from 1 amp/hour to over 100 amp/hour ratings with proper sizing of the solar panel. The price for this new low power version is $20 or $35 for two kits with one set of documentation. Cash check or money order. I have also been supplying the high power version of the Solar Charge Controller Kit for several years. This controller will keep a SLA or LA 12 volt battery charged from solar panels of 3 to about 200 watts. Batteries of 2 amp hour to 110 amp/hour have been used with these controllers. This kit includes the above documentation and the high power FET, diodes and heat sink. The kit is $30 or $55 for two kits with one set of documentation. Cash check or money order. For a K2/100 a 35 amp hour battery and about a 50-80 watt solar panel will be required if full power operation is required. The kits include a 2x3 inch silk screened and solder masked FR4 fiberglass circuit board, all the parts and documentation required to build the controller, less a box to mount it into. There is also a 6 volt version available upon request. These controllers use a precision regulator IC in an analog design that does not generate RF noise. There are no adjustments required and the assembly and check out time should be under one hour. order from: Don Brown KD5NDB 19132 Falls Creek Drive Flint, Texas 75762 The price includes US first class postage. For Canada, UK and Europe add $5 Thanks Don ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] power amp mounting of Q7 and Q8
Hi You should have 1/2 inch black screws for Q7 and Q8 the silver screws are 7/16 inch long and are too short as you have discovered. Check to see that you did not use the two 1/2 inch screws somewhere else. Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: John Wiener [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, May 16, 2006 4:45 PM Subject: [Elecraft] power amp mounting of Q7 and Q8 Man, I'm having a devil of a time mounting Q7 and Q8 on the sink. The screws seem too short...I only get a mm or less clearance to place a lock washer and nut. Did anyone else have this problem? I am aware of the need for the shoulder of the washer to be within the transistor's hole. Even if this is not so and is then corrected, it still adds insufficient clearance for a lock washer and nut. Do I have the wrong screws? They are silver and measure 1/2 inch. There are no screws with the kit that are longer. Boy, this is the first time I felt that the design of the kit is not first-rate. very frustrating! john AB8WH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Solar Controllers
Hi I have kitted a batch of my Solar Controller Kits for both the low to medium power systems and high power systems. Field Day is not that far away and you can get those extra points if you are operating with solar power The new low power version uses the same circuit and PC board as my high power kit but replaces the more expensive 75 amp FET and two 8 amp shottkey diodes with a less expensive 12 amp FET and a 3 amp shottkey diode. This version also does not need the heat sink on the FET as well. The new low power version will work with solar panels from 3 watts to 35 watts (I include information on increasing this to 70 watts) It can charge SLA batteries from 1 amp/hour to over 100 amp/hour ratings with proper sizing of the solar panel. A 3 watt Volkswagen panel, a 1 to 3 amp hour SLA battery and this controller is perfect for a KX1 or K1. For a QRP K2 a 10 to 15 watt panel and 3-7 amp battery is ideal. This controller could even run a K2/100 for several hours per day with a 30 watt panel and a 35 amp/hour battery. The price for this new low power version is $20 or $35 for two kits with one set of documentation. Cash check or money order. I have also been supplying the high power version of the Solar Charge Controller Kit for several years. This controller will keep a SLA or LA 12 volt battery charged from solar panels of 3 to about 200 watts. Batteries of 2 amp hour to 110 amp/hour have been used with these controllers. This kit includes the above documentation and the high power FET, diodes and heat sink to allow up to a maximum of about 200 watts of solar panels to be connected. The kit is $30 or $55 for two kits with one set of documentation. Cash check or money order. The kits include a 2x3 inch silk screened and solder masked fiberglass circuit board, all the parts and documentation required to build the controller, less a box to mount it into. There is also a 6 volt version available. These controllers use a precision regulator IC in an analog design that does not generate RF noise. There are no adjustments required and the assembly and check out time should be under one hour. order from: Don Brown KD5NDB 19132 Falls Creek Drive Flint, Texas 75762 The price includes US postage Thanks Don ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Encoder - bare wires?
Hi Here is a little trick I use when building the thermistor board. After installing all of the components place the board flat on top of 2 thicknesses of the black anti-static foam. Stick the bare wires (I use resistor leads) into the holes on the board and down through the foam to the workbench. Then solder all of the wires on the board and clip off the excess flush with the board. Remove the foam and bend all the wires down 90 degrees so they stick down from the edge of the board much like a resistor pack. The board should then be easy to install on the RF board in the K2 Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: Darwin, Keith [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2006 8:26 AM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K2 Encoder - bare wires? Yep, bare wires. It took me by surprise as well (yesterday) but I just followed the directions exactly and all was fine. Also, there is a thermistor board that you'll have to build and install, again using 8 bare wires. That operation was a bit of a pain since the board is so small and I have no 3rd hand. When you do that board, keep components flat and your solder joints thin and flat against the board. You'll want this thing to be skinny enough to fit in between other components. - Keith KD1E - - K2 5411 - ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K1 filter board tuning with KAT1
Hi Just remove the tuner board and install the jumper in the tuner connector, do the alignment and reinstall the tuner Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: KZ5A [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Wednesday, March 15, 2006 7:08 AM Subject: [Elecraft] K1 filter board tuning with KAT1 I have a K1 in which I just swaped the 17M parts for 20M parts. Now the filter board needs to be aligned. Question is how does one get around the KAT to access the filter board? 73 Jack KZ5A ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Desoldering and installing the KX1 3080 option
I agree with everything Ron has said here and would like to add: The spring loaded solder remover as well as the Hakko 808 require frequent cleaning. The spring type should be disassembled and all of the solder bits removed. You can clean the excess flux from inside the barrel with a rag and a little WD40. You should also put a light coat of silicone grease on the O-ring on the plunger. Get a few spare tips and on one of them cut a little V with your flush cutters just large enough for your soldering tip. That way you can place solder sucker tip over the iron tip and get a better seal for the vacuum to remove the solder If the solder sucker is not clean the little balls of solder will re-fill the pad hole and generally get all over the board as well as the loss of suction will require several tries to get the solder removed. I usually clean the solder sucker after about 10-15 cycles. You can also use a wooden toothpick to clean out the pad holes after the part is removed if you heat the pad and stick the toothpick into the hole while the solder is still liquid but the solder sucker works better. Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: Ron D'Eau Claire [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, March 14, 2006 10:39 PM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Desoldering and installing the KX1 3080 option Snip A power vacuum desolderer like the Hakko can be a wonderful investment and good addition to the bench. Like any tool, it requires the user understand its limitations and applications. It does greatly eliminate the need for two-handed desoldering. I'm aware that one can use a separate desoldering pump and iron on one side of the board. It works, but it usually takes more heat and more time. Because of that, it's a good way to debond pads. The Hakko 808 makes the job easier, for a price. Just be careful, very careful, what you touch with it. I've used similar tools. I've thought about getting one myself, but since we don't have it on the recommend tools list... Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Desoldering and installing the KX1 3080 option
Hi I have the 808 and a older 706 Hakko. The 808 comes with 2 tips and they are about the right size for most of the work I do. They should be fine for any rework or option installing on a K2. I use my 808 quite a bit and the tips last about 6 months to a year, so for occasional use the two tips that come with the 808 should last a long time. I have not received my 8030 option yet but I have not started the KX1 yet so I may not need the 808 for the 8030. I have several repairs and calibrations to complete and two K2's to build before I will get to the KX1 Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, March 14, 2006 9:42 AM Subject: [Elecraft] Desoldering and installing the KX1 3080 option Having had several harrowing desoldering experiences over my kit building career, I read with interest the posts on the Hakko 808 - I'm on the verge of ordering one on the spot. But I have a question to anyone who has used one, especially if you've used to install your 3080 option: Does the unit come with the right tip, or do you need to order an extra? I've found a number of good internet sites to buy it, but none mention what tip if any it ships with. Thanks Mike N2HTT KX1 s/n 99 K1 s/n 566 (and probably eventually a K2 .B-) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Solar controller Kits
Hi I have kitted a batch of my Solar Controller Kits for both the low to medium power systems and high power systems. Field Day is not that far away and you can get those extra points if you are operating with solar power The new low power version uses the same circuit and PC board as my high power kit but replaces the more expensive 75 amp FET and two 8 amp shottkey diodes with a less expensive 12 amp FET and a 3 amp shottkey diode. This version also does not need the heat sink on the FET as well. I have added another couple of pages to the documentation with information on proper sizing of the battery and panel as well as a color photo of the completed board, bringing it up to six pages total. The new low power version will work with solar panels from 3 watts to 35 watts (I include information on increasing this to 70 watts) It can charge SLA batteries from 1 amp/hour to over 100 amp/hour ratings with proper sizing of the solar panel. A 3 watt Volkswagen panel, a 1 to 3 amp hour SLA battery and this controller is perfect for a KX1 or K1. For a QRP K2 a 10 to 15 watt panel and 3-7 amp battery is ideal. This controller could even run a K2/100 for several hours per day with a 30 watt panel and a 35 amp/hour battery. The price for this new low power version is $20 or $35 for two kits with one set of documentation. Cash check or money order. I have also been supplying the high power version of the Solar Charge Controller Kit for several years. This controller will keep a SLA or LA 12 volt battery charged from solar panels of 3 to about 200 watts. Batteries of 2 amp hour to 110 amp/hour have been used with these controllers. This kit includes the above documentation and the high power FET, diodes and heat sink to allow up to a maximum of about 200 watts of solar panels to be connected. The kit is $30 or $55 for two kits with one set of documentation. Cash check or money order. The kits include a 2x3 inch silk screened and solder masked fiberglass circuit board, all the parts and documentation required to build the controller, less a box to mount it into. There is also a 6 volt version available. These controllers use a precision regulator IC in an analog design that does not generate RF noise. There are no adjustments required and the assembly and check out time should be under one hour. order from: Don Brown KD5NDB 19132 Falls Creek Drive Flint, Texas 75762 The price includes US postage Thanks Don ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Filter alignment question
Hi Here is a way to check the alignment of the filters. Assuming a 600 Hz sidetone tune to 4.000 MHz in CW normal mode You should hear the 4 MHz internal oscillator as a 600 Hz tone, Switch to each filter and the tone should not change frequency by more than a few hertz. Then switch to CW reverse and go back through the filters. Again the 600 Hz tone should not change. To check the SSB filters select LSB and tune to 4.00060. You should hear the same 600 hertz tone then check each SSB filter and the tone should not change. Now change to USB and tune to 3.99940 MHz and check for the 600 hertz tone on each filter. If you do not hear the correct tone on any of the above tests then you need to recheck the filter alignment for that filter. You may have it set on the wrong side of the filter slope or may need to move it slightly. Use spectrogram to re-align the filters after first setting them to the values listed in the manual so they are in the ballpark. You should move each filters BFO frequency slightly even if it is correct so the firmware will recalculate the sidetone offsets. Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 7:05 AM Subject: [Elecraft] Filter alignment question Hi, I was monitoring the K2's local oscillator frequency and I noticed that as I tune to WWV in the various modes, that the LO frequency is different at zero beat. I expected an offset (w/respect to SSB) in the CW mode but I expected the LO to be the same at zero beat whether I was in LSB or USB modes. It isn't so I am wondering if something is not aligned properly. Any insight is appreciated. Thanks Mike, WA1SEO K2 4778 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] questions
Hi The K2/100 will draw about 15-18 amps depending on the band selected at 100 watts driven into a 50 ohm load. Do not use silver solder it is hard to remove if you make a mistake or when components need to be removed to install options. Silver solder has no advantages in standard through hole PC construction. You should use 60/40 or better 63/37 rosin core solder. Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: RICHARD MC KINNEY [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Saturday, March 11, 2006 1:05 PM Subject: [Elecraft] questions I'm thinking about getting the K2 with the 100 watt amp. This forum is very helpful and maybe I can get some questions answered. What current does the K2 need at 100 watts? Did I see one is supposed to use 2% silver solder or is 60/40 ok? DE WB4VFN Rich ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Arrives - WTCPT question, DMM Question.
Hi Look one bottom of the tip for a number. If it is 7 then the tip is a 700 degree f tip if it is a 6 then you have a 600 degree tip. The 600 degree tips are too cold for most work with standard solder. You should use a 700 degree tip. I prefer a PTA7 tip. For meters I have several Fluke meters. They are not cheap but they are very good and measure much faster and are more rugged than the cheap meters. I have an 8050A that is over 25 years old and with the exception of a couple sets of ni-cad batteries it has never needed any repair or calibration. You may be able to find a used Fluke on Ebay at a low price. Other than that there are many cheap meters out there. Radio shack, Circuit Specialists Telequipment all have inexpensive made in China meters that will work and are almost throw away. Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: Darwin, Keith [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Friday, March 10, 2006 11:22 AM Subject: [Elecraft] K2 Arrives - WTCPT question, DMM Question. The kit arrived yesterday. SN 5411. I'm still waiting for my magnifying lamp to arrive. Then soldering begins. With my WTCPT station, I accidently left it on for about a week. I turned it off and put in a new tip (PTH). When I assembled my mini-module, I found I had to dwell a long time (5-10 seconds) before I could get solder to melt. In a few cases I felt the board getting warm. I changed tips to my original tip (after cleaning it up) and dwell times dropped to about 3 seconds. So what tip should I be using? Also which DMM should I buy? Is there one out there that is considered a best buy or a great unit at a good price (the cheaper the better)?? - Keith KD1E - - K1 12xx - - K2 5411 (pile'o'parts) - ___ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2
Hi Use an Ohmmeter to check the resistance to ground on the collectors of the PA transistors. You may have a damaged insulator allowing the collector to short to the heatsink. Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: Michael Pisani [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Friday, March 10, 2006 12:30 PM Subject: [Elecraft] K2 Howdy: Just commenced phase 3 transmitter test. Results: excessive current. Conditions: Using a 3 amp power supply. Set K2 at 2 watts power out. Cal current set to 2 max. Have analog watt meter connected to K2 and 50 ohm dummy load connected to watt meter. When Tune mode activated, I get high current on display it reads 8.0 and my power supply ammeter pegs well over 3 amps and shuts down after 5 seconds. This will also happen when the front panel output control is set to one watt. As careful and experienced as i think I may be, I certainly have a problem. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Michael J Pisani ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] CP1 Power Handling
Hi I have both the 20 db and 30 db versions of the CP1. Even though the 20 db is not rated that high I have used it at 100 watts with no problems for short times. I use them with the OHR WM-2 wattmeter. To get it to go to 200 watts you would at least need to increase the wattage of the terminating resistors on the CP1 and probably need to increase the core size on the toroids. Of course I have not done this so I am just guessing. Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: Linden, Mike (BRC-Hes) [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, March 07, 2006 8:33 AM Subject: [Elecraft] CP1 Power Handling Does anyone know what modifications would need to be made to the CP1 Directional Coupler in order to get it to handle 200W at 20dB attenuation? I'd like to use the CP1 as a cost effective means of extending the useful range of my OHR WM-2 QRP Wattmeter, but 30dB is more attenuation than I want and the power handling at 20dB is not high enough. Thanks, Michael N9BDF ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 - bargraph reading OK?
Hi When you calibrated the meter during alignment and test part 1 the receiver was not functioning because it did not exist yet. Now that you have the 40 meter receiver working you will need to reset the calibration on the S-meter. You would normally wait until the K2 is completed to do all of the final calibration but you can do it at this stage if you want and then check it at the final test and calibration. Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: ON4WIX [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Saturday, March 04, 2006 8:39 AM Subject: [Elecraft] K2 - bargraph reading OK? Hi all, I just finished Alignment and Test, Part II on my K2 S/N 5361. All readings are well within spec and I've also quickly compared the receive on 40m to my TS-570DG. It's afternoon here so no whopping broadcast signals yet, but so far what I've heard with the K2 seems very promising. I only have one question. When I disconnect the antenna from the K2 and put the RF gain to maximum, the S meter shows S7 while I would expect it to drop down to bottom scale. The meter has been calibrated during the testing of the display unit, all was well then. Connected to the same antenna as my TS570 the K2 shows around 20dB higher signal levels on the meter. Should I recalibrate the meter? According to the manual recalibration is only necessary after changing the AGC threshold which I haven't done. I've only aligned the IF amp and the 40m bandpass filter as per the instructions on p64 of the manual. I do not have a signal generator here so if you're sending in any hints please take this into account. Thanks for your help Glenn ON4WIX ___ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Solder?
Hi I have no experience with that brand of solder. However if it seems to make good shiny joints with a good filet then it should be OK. I would rather use 63/37 .025 or .020 for pc-board work. The 60/40 has the potential for a cold solder joint if the lead moves while the solder is cooling from a liquid to a solid. The 63/37 does not do this. I find the .031 too large and the tendency is to apply too much to the joint. With the .025 or .020 you can control the amount applied easier. I have used Kester and Multicore. Kester is available from Mouser and Multicore is part of Locktite now but I think they have a minimum order requirement. Mouser does not have a minimum order. You may be able to get Kester from DigiKey also. A lot of the difference in solders is the flux not the solder itself. Kester offers many different flux cores. For kit building Kester 44 or 285 with a flux content of 3.3% is the correct solder. For experienced builders Kester 245 no-clean can be used but should be avoided by beginners. This solder comes in 1.1% and 2.2% flux content. This flux is clear in color and with the low content it does not show up on the boards so can be left on the board or is easier to clean if you prefer to clean the boards. However it requires more skill because of the low flux content. Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: Spence Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Saturday, March 04, 2006 9:11 AM Subject: [Elecraft] Solder? Just wondering about solder quality... Getting ready to build my K2 and want to make sure I have the right solder for the job. The elecraft site lists several brands/types. This week I stopped into Circuit Specialists in Mesa AZ and bought some solder. When I asked if they had any Kester solder they sold me this stuff. description RH60 Solder 1lb Spool, .031'' Diam, 60/40 (Sn%/Pb%) (RH60-1) Here is quality solder manufactured to the highest standards at a tremendous price. Circuit Specialists is a direct importer of this product and our large purchasing power enables us to offer this product at great savings. Manufactured with pure tin from Malaysia, and lead ingots from Australia. This solder has obtained prestigious Japanese Industry Standard (JIS) certification. It surpasses all levels defined in JIS and MIL standards for solderability, non-corrosiveness and conductivity. Melting points are 362°-365°F for the 63/37 and 365°-383°F for the 60/40. http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/6259 -- Anybody have opinions/experience with the solder from Circuit Specialists? Would it be a good choice for the K2? It appears to solder well and is quite clean. Some of the older kester that I have seems to have a lot more flux than this stuff. Thoughts? 73, Spence W7CSW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Gearing up to build - where to get tools?
Hi The 7 on the tip means 700 degrees F This is the correct tip temperature for building your kit. I would recommend the PTA7 tip for most work. You may want to get a PTC7 for times when a large tip is needed. I do not recommend the long reach tips because the tip is just too far away from the heater and cools off when making joints before the regulator can react to the heat load. Solder 63/37 Kester 44 or 285 .025 cutters Xcelite 170M or Hakko CHP170 NN pliers Xcelite 378M small magnifying glass #1 Phillips screwdriver with magnetic tip small jewelers screw driver or trimpot adjusting tool lead bending tool Mouser 5166-801 You can get all of it from Mouser. Quick service and no minimum order Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: Darwin, Keith [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Elecraft Discussion List elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Thursday, March 02, 2006 9:19 AM Subject: [Elecraft] Gearing up to build - where to get tools? Hey folks, I have some tools but will need more for the K2. I have a Weller WTCPT (or whatever it is) soldering station with two tips. Both have a 7 on the bottom (700 degree?). One is the original and one is a very thin pointy tip. I have a static mat, a clear bench and a workable light. I'm thinking I need the following and wonder if there is a preferred place to get them at a fair price? - Solder - Small side cutters - Small needle nose pliers - Other tips for the weller - Helping hands parts holder - Solder braid (for desoldering) I have access to a vacuum desolder station so if things get bad I can go that route. Where should I get these things? What else do I need? - Keith KD1E - Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 microphone advice
Hi I use a TenTec 701 hand mike. It is a little smaller than the MH2 and comes with a 4 pin connector so you will need to go to Radio Shack and get an 8 pin connector and install it in place of the 4 pin. The interface is the same as the MH2 with the 5.6k resistor for bias required. Works good and is inexpensive ($28) Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: H. Cary III [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2006 7:25 PM Subject: [Elecraft] K2 microphone advice I need some help/advice. I have completed K2 #5266 and want to use it on SSB, as well as cw. The MH2 hand mike offered by Elecraft/Heil is no longer available and I don't want to use a head mounted mike with earphones which is the only other alternative through Elecraft/Heil. I admit I'm probably spoiled by the plug 'n play hand mikes I've used with previous Kenwood/Icom rigs and I'd really like something like that to use with my K2. If the Elecraft/Heil MH2 were still available I wouldn't be asking for help but it's not. What do others of you use? Also, does it need to be a mike with any special features? The guys in Elecraft support have been great to work with but I thought I'd start here since its after 5pm on the west coast. 73, Cary, K4TM K2 #5266 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [TenTec] [Fwd: Re: [Elecraft] K2 microphone advice]
Hi The 705 desk mike will work if you install the battery in the mike base or jumper the +8 volt supply to the mike connector jumper block. It works marginally on +5. The only problem is the +8 volt supply is not available on the front panel board and you will need to arrange some sort of connector so you can unplug the front panel on the K2. The 701 has the same type of electret capacitor element that many other mikes have including the MH2. The plastic case on the 701 is not a large or a rugged as the MH2 was but the MH2 is not available any more and Elecraft does not have a replacement for it at the current time. Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: Rich McCabe [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Thursday, March 02, 2006 1:23 PM Subject: Re: [TenTec] [Fwd: Re: [Elecraft] K2 microphone advice] That is something I have yet to try on the K2. I find this tread interesting as I have get to get a great audio report on my K2. Right off the bat I bought a MD2 mike in a boom. I recently bought a new Pro III and a Heil PR780 (developed for the Icom-originally) and I can hardly make a contact without someone asking about my audio and microphone. The reports are outstanding. I moved the PR780 over to the k2 and was told he audio is much improved over the MD2 but its no where near the Pro III. I assumed this to be typical of the K2 as this is my second one (both late serial) and both had similar audio. Not bad by any means, but no one has said. You sound great, what are you using ! I have a 705 and might give it a try. If it works I would have to steal the element and put it in something else. I just cant stand the plastic feel of the TT mike ! Although for me they have worked the best on the multitude of TT rigs I have owned. Rich kd0zv - Original Message - From: ron [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Discussion of Ten-Tec Equipment [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, March 02, 2006 1:07 PM Subject: [TenTec] [Fwd: Re: [Elecraft] K2 microphone advice] I thought this is really cool, that someone would make this recommendation on elecraft reflector. (and you guys complain about TT mikes, Ha!) smile Ron wb1hga message follows: Hi I use a TenTec 701 hand mike. It is a little smaller than the MH2 and comes with a 4 pin connector so you will need to go to Radio Shack and get an 8 pin connector and install it in place of the 4 pin. The interface is the same as the MH2 with the 5.6k resistor for bias required. Works good and is inexpensive ($28) Don Brown KD5NDB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 microphone advice
Hi The electret elements used in these mikes need to have a small bias voltage applied to the mike usually 5-10 volts through a resister usually a few kilo ohms. The 701 has the resistor built into the microphone case but the Elecraft mikes do not so the resister needs to be added on the back of the microphone connector on the front panel board. The resistor connects from the +5 volt to the audio out pin and Elecraft recommends 5.6K for their mikes. The 701 mike will work fine with or without this resistor as it would just be in parallel with the internal resistor and the value is not very critical although it does need the +5 volt supply connected for it to work. Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: John Huffman [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; Don Brown [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, March 02, 2006 2:51 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 microphone advice What's the purpose of the 5.6k resistor? I use a Ten Tec 701 hand microphone with no resistor with good audio. I use a Ten Tec 706 desk microphone with no resistor but it loses some of it's lows. Tried substituting a 9v battery fo0r the bias voltage, but it made no difference in the audio. The MD2 and MH2 tend to overdrive my particular KSB2. 73 de NA8M John I use a TenTec 701 hand mike. It is a little smaller than the MH2 and comes with a 4 pin connector so you will need to go to Radio Shack and get an 8 pin connector and install it in place of the 4 pin. The interface is the same as the MH2 with the 5.6k resistor for bias required. Works good and is inexpensive ($28) Don Brown KD5NDB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 as a separate box
Hi Swapping the top is easy. It requires removing 6 screws and unplugging a few cables. The only problem is the side screws that thread into the KPA100 tend to strip out if removed too many times. You can replace them with the larger screws available for free from Elecraft or just not use them. It does take a few minutes to do the swap and you need to be careful to plug in the cables correctly and make sure the cable routing is OK The reason for mounting separately into an EC2 box is the K2 can remain in its QRP dress including the battery, KIO2 and KAT2. The KPA100 and perhaps KAT100 resides in the separate EC2 box. For QRP operation just unplug a BNC cable from the KAT2 and the 9 pin control cable from the KIO2 and you are ready to go. When every thing is reconnected the K2 knows the KPA100 and KAT100 are there and sets the KAT2 to bypass as well as enabling the KPA100. The unplugging takes less than a minute and does not require opening any of the boxes. Besides the matching separate units look cool in the shack. Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: John Wiener [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 9:50 PM Subject: [Elecraft] KPA100 as a separate box I read in the KPA 100 manual that it is easy to remove the amp to use K2 in QRP mode. I also, see several amps mounted in separate enclosures. Is it really a quick-change procedure to remove the KPA 100 from the K2? If so, what would be the reason to use a separate enclosure? John ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] low audio on K2 s/n 3641 (was RE: PLL ReferenceOscillator Range Test)
Hi I don't know if I can help but here are a few thoughts. First the S-meter is just an indication of the AGC voltage so it is normal for it to not work when the AGC is turned off because there is no AGC voltage when turned off. If you are losing the signal out of the crystal filter check each crystal pin to ground with an ohm meter. You should get a high reading not a short. Sometimes if too much solder is used the solder will flow up under the crystal shorting it to the ground plain on the top of the board under the crystal. If one of them is shorted you will need to remove that crystal and remove the excess solder. The RF probe outputs a DC voltage to your meter but the component values on the probe and the 10 meg ohm input resistance of the meter form a divider that makes the DC voltage read on the meter equivalent to the RF RMS voltage at the probe tip. Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: Chris Kantarjiev [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 11:43 PM Subject: [Elecraft] low audio on K2 s/n 3641 (was RE: PLL ReferenceOscillator Range Test) Last night I sent out a message about my PLL reference oscillator range test showing the range to be a bit too small; I was starting to track down the low-audio on new-to-me s/n 3641. Don W3FPR made several helpful suggestions off-list, none of which panned out (including checking T7). I played around with the AGC settings and discovered that there is reasonable (but not room-filling) audio when the AGC is off, but turning on the AGC quiets it way down. I also found that the S-meter response is not what I expect: I injected a -50dBm signal at 7100KHz. I zero-beat it with SPOT on. RF gain is fully clockwise. - I really don't understand what the S-meter is meant to do when switching AGC off and on: it seems that when the AGC is on, the S-meter reading goes up even if the audio goes down; when I switch the AGC off, the S-meter reading droops off the left edge. What's going on here? - I expect this to be S9 or so, and it's much less. I have done CAL S LO and CAL S HI several times, just to be sure. When I drop the signal to -100dBm, the S-meter is zero; it takes about -70dBm to get the meter to register. I found a note from Gary Surrency of Elecraft in the archives, K2: 25 reasons for low RX sensitivity or low audio. (long). The first things he mentions is checking CAL FIL. So I borrowed Leigh WA5ZNU's ngen and used Spectrogram to set the filters per Tom N0SS's excellent instructions. (Some day I'll understand why everyone chooses different filter widths :-) So I started on the Receiver Signal Tracing in my manual. Everything was more or less correct until I got to the crystal filter: 4. Post-Mixer Amp Output. Expected 2.2Vrms. Got 3.02Vrms 5. -5dB Pad Output. Expected 1.40Vrms. Got 3.04Vrms 6. Crystal Filter Output. Expected 0.35Vrms. Actual 0.094Vrms. I stopped there, because this seems very wrong. In Gary's note, he mentions that the crystals here should be marked 4915-20, not 4915-S. Mine are marked 4.9136-S, which is what the manual's inventory lists for the crystal filter set... So. I'm open to suggestions. Thanks! 73 de chris K6DBG P.S. Should these readings really be listed Vrms? It's a DC voltage after it leaves the RF probe, isn't it? I'm certainly reading it on my DC scale. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Does build quality affect performance?
Hi I would say that depends. If a beginner follows the directions and installs all of the parts correctly the radio has the potential to perform the same as a radio built by a pro. The difference is the little tricks you learn after building several in the alignment. A beginner can get the alignment right but in my experience it may take several tries to get optimized. Where the pro will get it the first time. The beginner may not know when something is not quite right and live with it because he has never had a properly working K2 to compare it with. I see this sometimes when two owners get together and compare K2's and notices a difference in one of the rigs. I have build many K2's and worked on quite a few and unless there is a mistake in the assembly they all work about the same (very good). Some are not very pretty inside and others are beautiful but they all work about the same. What you get from a pro (or someone that has built several) is the experience of making the mistakes on their first radio so that won't happen again. I try to build Elecraft products to display quality so if you remove the covers the insides look as good as the outside. I clean all of the circuit boards except the front panel (you do not want to get flux residue in the switches or on the display). I use the proper crimp tool for all of the connectors and cables as well as dozens of other little techniques learned in over 40 years of electronics experience. The beginner may not know how to do all of this or may not want to. Does it make the radio work any better? Probably not. Its just part of being meticulous (anal?) As to the rework , if it is done carefully it will not make any difference to the performance although if not done carefully it can make quite a mess. The proper tools and techniques help a lot in preventing lifted pads and/or damaged circuit boards and again this takes a little experience. It really does not matter who built the radio as long as it was done correctly. On the alignment do it a few times to get the hang of it and use Spectrogram on the filters. You should be able to put the K2 right on frequency and hear little or no frequency shift when you change filters and get rated power out on all bands. If you are a beginner or a pro the reflector is a great resource to solve any problems you may encounter. Someone on the reflector will usually have the answer if not there is always Gary at Elecraft. He has seen it all. Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: Darwin, Keith [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Elecraft Discussion List elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 8:18 AM Subject: [Elecraft] Does build quality affect performance? Hey guys, Does a K2's performance vary depending on how well it was built? Is there a difference in performance between one built by a pro, one built by a beginner who has no problems and one built by a beginner who has lots of problems and does rework to correct them? - Keith KD1E - ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Poor soldering (was: Does build quality affectperformance?)
Hi The first problem in soldering is the iron itself. Although a K2 can be built with a simple soldering iron the problem with most of them is they get too hot to make up for the lack of capacity. These simple irons have elements that must reach a reasonable temperature and hold that temperature. With out any switching or feed back to regulate the iron they tend to be too hot when not being used and too cold when you try to make a joint. A soldering station on the other hand has a high capacity heater and a control circuit or mechanical switch that can sense the tip temperature and apply the correct amount of power to the tip to keep it at the correct temperature. I highly recommend buying a temperature controlled soldering station. The next mistake is selecting too cold of a tip temperature. This goes against what you would think as you would expect a hot tip would be more likely to damage the board but this not the case, within reason. A 700-750 degree iron will heat the joint quicker and allow you to get on make the joint and get off of the board faster than a 600 degree tip. It is the dwell time on the board that is more important than the temperature when it comes to board damage. The recommended solder is 60/40 rosin core or better yet 63/37 rosin core solder. Multicore or Kester 44 fit these requirements. 0.031 or preferably 0.025 diameter should be used. Silver solder is NOT recommended because it is harder to remove in case of a mistake or rework required to install options. If you have some experience soldering then no-clean flux will make the board look better but it is harder to make good joints with this solder because of the low amount of flux in the core. Of course acid core or water soluble solders should never be used and will void the warranty. As far as technique this takes some experience. Building one or two of the mini kits is a good way to start. Every K2-K1-KX1 owner needs a dummy load so build the DL1 to practice your soldering. Remember to heat the joint not the solder. The joint should be hot enough to melt the solder when the fresh solder is applied. Each joint should take about 2-3 seconds to make and the iron should be removed. If it does not look good allow a few seconds to cool and retouch the iron for 1 or 2 seconds to reflow the joint do not add more solder. One of the other problems is too much solder. Using 0.025 diameter solder will help here. The pads are plated through so it is not necessary to fill the hole so it comes through to the other side. Just a smooth fillet on the bottom of the board is all that is needed. The solder should not be mounded up into a ball on the pad. The something else is tinning toroid leads. This is still the number one problem. The wire needs to be tinned all the way up to the core so when the wire is pulled tight you are not pulling the insulation down into the pad. There are many ways to strip and tin the wires. Just make sure you do a good job here and you will avoid many problems. Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: Craig Rairdin [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 10:36 AM Subject: [Elecraft] Poor soldering (was: Does build quality affectperformance?) However, since the biggest problem that beginners seem to have is poor soldering, sometimes a beginner's rig may have poor joints that don't cause problems immediately. With that in mind, what are the most common soldering problems? Could we head off errors by discussing them here or beefing up the material on the Elecraft Web site on this topic? Is it: * Iron too hot/cold * Wrong tip * Too much heat applied (damaging part or pad) * Bad technique * Wrong solder * Too much/little solder Or something else? Depending on what the symptoms of the problems are, this would also help new owners choose a builder and help purchasers of used units inspect the work before buying. When I decided to build a K1 I spent a lot of time reading the material on the Elecraft Web site, then I bought a suitable solder station rather than resurrect my old Radio Shack iron. Both my K1 K2 turned out great with no problems in checkout, alignment, or everyday operation, but you have me worried that I might have screwed up in ways I haven't discovered yet. :-) Craig NZ0R K1 #1966 K2/100 #4941 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] THERMAL PADS
Hi The thermal pads are usually in the same bag as the serial number tag Don Brown - Original Message - From: Manuel Wilches [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 11:42 AM Subject: [Elecraft] THERMAL PADS Hello: Does the thermal pad called for when you place Q6 (page 67) come in the miscellaneous bag? If not, what material can be used to make one? Thank you very much Manuel LU5OM # 5310 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] WA3WSJ: K1 and my KAT1 Trail Ready!
Hi We use silicone rubber to seal the electrical connections in the computer control systems that my company manufactures. These controllers are used on sewage treatment plants that have hydrogen sulfide and or chlorine gases present at times. We include a tube of GE silicone II to seal all of the conduits where the wires come in from the treatment system. We have used this stuff for 11 years on over 40,000 systems with no problems. The solvent is alcohol based rather than acetic acid. You can buy small 4 oz tubes at Loews or home depot or any hardware store. Just make sure it is marked silicone II Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: Steven Pituch [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 1:35 PM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] WA3WSJ: K1 and my KAT1 Trail Ready! Hi Ed and all, Someone can correct me if necessary, but did the RTV have a vinegar smell when you used it? Apparently there is a type of silicone that is electrical friendly that doesn't have the acetic acid smell, while the regular stuff can corrode electronic devces. Some types of hot melt glue or even nail polish might be better to use. Again, please correct me if someone else has better info. Anyway have fun with the K1! Regards, Steve, W2MY, K2 #402. -Original Message- After a quick alignment, it works great. I RTVed the two pots and C9 on the tuner board and now it's trail ready. 72, Ed, WA3WSJ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 268.1.1/271 - Release Date: 2/28/2006 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 - grounding of RCVR filter Xtals
Hi Yes it is important to ground on both sides. Here is how I do it. First make sure the crystals are down all the way on the board. Press on the top and heat the crystals leads to make sure there is no space between the crystal and the board. Turn the RF board bottom side up. Drop a clipped component lead into each of the ground holes. I like to use the leads from the 1n4007 diodes but a resistor or cap lead is OK. The leads should go through and rest on the work bench underneath. Solder all of the leads to the board. Now flip the board over and using a small flat blade screwdriver bend the ground leads at the base of each crystal so the lead is parallel to the side of the case of the crystal and touching. Clip each lead so it extends up about 3/4 of the height of the crystal. Now lay the hot iron on the side of the crystal along the lead and feed a little solder. As soon as it flows quickly lay the iron on the other side of the lead so you get a smooth fillet on both sides of the lead. Do all of the ground leads on one side of the crystals first. Then go back and do the other side after the crystals have cooled. Flip the board back over and trim any excess ground wires flush with the board. You should also clip all of the resistor pack leads near the crystals flush with the board. I know this all sounds like a lot of trouble but I you want to get every last ounce of performance out of you K2 it is necessary. It does make a measurable difference. Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: ON4WIX [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 2:27 PM Subject: [Elecraft] K2 - grounding of RCVR filter Xtals Hi all My K2 s/n 5361 is coming together nicely, up to now I've encountered no problems whatsoever. I just installed the receiver filter Xtals X7 through X11 and now I've arrived at the point where these Xtals have to be grounded (page 53, last step). The manual states that a special grounding technique is required for the grounding of X7-X11. Instead of soldering a grounding lead to the top of the Xtal housings the manual states that the grounding wires need to be soldered to the sides of the housings. There are 2 grounding pads for each Xtal. My question is: is it absolutely imperative to use 2 grounding leads for each Xtal? I don't see too many problems soldering the leads near the outer edge of the PC board, but the soldering points at the opposite sides of the housings are awfully close to RP4 and RP5... Any suggestions as to how I should go about soldering the grounding leads at those sides of the Xtal housings? Thanks for any advice. 73 de Glenn ON4WIX ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] atu effect on low power out of kxv60 (was xv144alignment )
Hi Yes I ran into this about a year ago. The problem is the KAT2 does not have a three state output driver for the RF detector as the KPA100 and KAT100 have and the KAT2 is loading the RF detect line. Changing R6 on the KAT2 to a higher value will solve the problem. I used 470 ohms rather than the 47 ohm resistor normally installed. Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: michael jensen [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2006 11:57 AM Subject: [Elecraft] atu effect on low power out of kxv60 (was xv144alignment ) When i installed the kxv60 i did not have the atu installed. After a broken diode every thing tested ok. atu was installed. And tested ok. I did not recheck the kxv60. when pressing tune to tx while aligning power on xv144 i saw that the power from k2 could only reach something like 0.2 mW. i mentioned it here and got some help. now i did an other test on kxv60 having taken the lid of k2 every thing worked ok 1mW was send when pressing tune. I put the k2 together and started the xv144 alignment. Now the problem was back. I have now found that pressing tune with the atu installed result in only 0.2 mW on the low power out. removing the atu control cable from the control board the low power out are now 1mW pressing tune. i do not have a power meter able to measure that level, but i belive having the atu installed makes the low power output to be about 1/5 using tune to tx. Seems that low power out are ok when keying the k2 with the mic and with the atu installed. Only measurement i could do was to to check the output from the transverter. I aligned the xv144 using the k2 with out the atu. so 1 mW displayed on the display giving 20W on the xv144. Installing the atu in k2 pressing tune give 6w from the xv144. Now keying with mic shouting the south european olaaa drive xv144 to 20w. any word on this please thanks in advance OZ1BZJ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 in QRP mode?
At least two ways. One unplug the power connector to the KPA100 and use the old round power connector on the K@ it will auto detect and go into QRP mode. Two, go into the secondary menu and turn off the KPA100. Of course you can also remove the KPA100 and install the QRP top but that is really not necessary un less you want to use the battery option then you would neet to either swap the tope or the ultimate is to build the KPA100 into an EC2 box then you can just unplug the K2 and go. You can also have the KAT100 live in the EC-2 box with the KPA100 Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: Darwin, Keith [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Elecraft Discussion List elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 10:55 AM Subject: [Elecraft] K2/100 in QRP mode? What does it take to make a K2/100 run QRP? - Turn down the power? (fine for CW what about SSB?) - Unplug the KPA100 and put the old top back on? - Keith KD1E - ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Drift-K1
Hi If I remember right that 1/2 inch rubber with the sticky tape on it is used as a spacer for the LCD display. You are supposed to stick it on the pc board under the display and then stick the display to it and then solder the pins. I have not built a K1 lately (although I have built several) so with the new backlight this may not be the way it is mounted now. Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: Tom Althoff [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Elecraft Discussion List elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 6:10 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Drift-K1 Mike... That reminds me. I noticed that too. Whenever I picked up the K1 and sqeezed the bottom it would shift maybe even more than 100Hz. There was a small double sided sticky tape covered hard rubber piece in my packing material. I never saw what it was for in the instructions or if it even belonged in the K1 kit or not. But I exposed one side of the sticky tape and pressed it onto the bottom cover below the VFO section. Now when I sqeeze the distance between the bottom cover and the PC board doesn't change much at all and the freq shift is reduced dramatically. I just mention that in case others find a 1/2 black square with sticky tape on it in their K1 kits and would like to put it to good use. Tom K2TA - Original Message - From: Mike Morrow [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Elecraft Discussion List elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 6:41 PM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Drift-K1 My K1 is very sensitive to placement. If I pick it up or turn it upside down, I can hear it shift up or down in frequency. Anything that squeezes or otherwise distorts the K1 bottom cover plate (such as when the case is grabbed during repositioning) will cause a small frequency shift (I see well below 100 Hz), due to the change of metal bottom cover plate position near the LC VFO circuitry on the RF PCB. The frequency returns to original when the pressure is released on the bottom cover. 73, Mike / KK5F ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: K2 Power Callibration
Hi I will throw my two cents worth. I agree with everything Don is saying here however there are several other ways to get a reasonably accurate power out measurement on a K2 or K2/100. The simplest and maybe least expensive is the Elecraft DL1 dummy load kit. This dummy load will handle 20 watts and includes a built in RF probe to measure the power out. You just connect a voltmeter to the probe out test points and use the included graph to convert the DC voltage to watts. Everyone building a K2 should have one of these simple dummy loads/RF indicator kits for calibration and tune up. Another method is to use the new Elecraft CP1 directional coupler/power pick off. With it you can use a QRP watt meter like the OHR WM-2 to measure up to 100 watts. You connect the K2/100 to the CP1 and then out of the CP1 to a dummy load that can handle 100 watts like the Tentec 300 watt load or the OHR 100 watt load. Then the forward pick off from the CP1 goes to the WM-2 set on 1 watt if you built the CP1 for 20 db or the 100 mW range if you built the CP1 for 30 db. The WM-2 will read 0-100 watts. If you don't have a watt meter then you can do the same thing with a scope and a little math by connecting the scope across the forward terminator resistor on the CP1. You should be able to do the same with a RF probe and a DC voltmeter with the 20 db version of the CP1. The 30 DB version may have too low of output for the 30 DB version for use with a RF probe. I also wrote an article several years ago on how to convert the OHR 100 watt dummy load into a 100 watt Pi attenuator with a 20 db down output. This can be used with a scope or QRP watt meter to measure 0-100 watts. I will repost the instructions if anyone is interested. Thanks The other Don Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 6:42 PM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Re: K2 Power Callibration John, One must be careful not to zap the diode in the RF Probe - so measuring directly across the dummy load is good only up to 20 watts or so. A 'scope with a proper probe will handle the full 100 watts of the KPA100 easily. Builders may not have a known good 'scope, and the RF Probe method must be used with some intelligence - many folks do not know the accuracy of their dummy load at the frequency of operation - and both the 'scope and RF Probe methods are highly dependent on knowing the accuracy of the dummy load - it must be entirely resistive for accurate results. Yes, I feel that my 'scope and 1% 50 ohm dummy load (checked for both R and X on several antenna analyzers) will provide better than 5% accuracy for any wattmeter that I calibrate by that method. Of course, I can do a more accurate job at 30 watts or lower because I can read the voltage differences on my 'scope face with greater precision (the 10 volts per division scale) and at higher power, I end up at the 20 or 50 volts per division scale and the interpolation becomes more coarse. 73, Don W3FPR Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] CAL FIL
Hi Do you have the frequency counter probe connected to the BFO test point. If you do, does the frequency counter work when you connect it to the 4.000Mhz oscillator on the control board. If not then you have a problem with the frequency counter on the control board. Possibly low gain on Q9 and Q10. If you just forgot to plug in the counter probe then that is your problem. Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: Ron Polityka [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: .Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 7:12 PM Subject: [Elecraft] CAL FIL Hello, Hope someone can help me with a problem I am having trying to set my CAL FIL settings. I am using the N0SS program and I have looked in my K2 manual and the one on line. I have Processor 2.01H version and I/O Controller 1.02 version. I basic K2 for QRP operation without 60 meters. I can't seem to enter the new value of the CAL FIL that I want to keep. I get a INFO 230 which is BFO is not connected to freq. counter. I know I am missing something but I just can't place my finger on it. When I go and set my FL1 and hit the XFIL button all 00 come up and then InFO 230 shows up. Any help would be grateful, thanks in advance. 72 and Thanks, Ron Polityka WB3AAL www.wb3aal.com www.n3epa.org/ K1 - SN 01011 K2 - SN 01392 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Inoperable S-Meter - Now works and new question aboutalignment
Hi These S-meter settings sound like the readings when T7 is reversed. I have seen this several times and it makes the AGC and S-meter flaky as well as the sensitivity low. However you can make the radio appear to work although it just seems not quite right. The red wire winding should be closest to the IC U12 and the green winding should be closest to the jumper W3. Looking at another way the red winding should be in pads marked 3 and 4 and the green in 1 and 2. This may not be your problem but it is worth a look. Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Elecraft reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2006 10:15 PM Subject: FW: [Elecraft] Inoperable S-Meter - Now works and new question aboutalignment Rich, Your S-meter settings of 191 and 009 are a bit more broad than I usually experience, but the AGC Threshold setting has a lot to do with the final settings too - the 3 settings do interact a bit. I usually end up with 185 to 189 for the low setting and 16 to 19 for the high - but that is after optimizing the AGC Threshold voltage to produce no noticable change when switching from AGC ON to AGC OFF with no antenna connected (I usually end up with an AGC Threshold voltage between 3.65 and 3.75 volts). I also strive to place a 50 uV signal on 40 meters (with preamp off) at S-9 on the S-meter, so that is a bit more 'fussing' with the AGC Threshold and CAL S LO and CAL S HI. SNIP Don W3FPR -Original Message- ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] problem identifying capacitors
Hi If you will check the parts list I think you will find the 2.7 pf caps are alternates for the 3.3. These are the blue caps marked 2.7c. You should not use the 2.2 brown cap in this place. this is for c33. Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: Dr. Werner Furlan [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Sunday, February 19, 2006 3:09 PM Subject: [Elecraft] problem identifying capacitors hi all, I am working on the RF board, page 65 where a lot of capacitors are to do. The first problem I had was C22 (3.3pF), which I could not find. I found a capacitor with 2.2 on it, which I used after reading the parts list, but now I am at C33, which should also be 2.2 but nothing around. I have left one capacitor labeled I2I which is probably 121, one is labeled only with a I , not sure if this is a real label or not, the others left are not a choice. My DMM has a capacitor mode, but I don't get reasonable values if I try to measure these capacitors. I have one part which looks like a capacitor it is a small blue cap, little smaller than the 470 caps, labeled with 2.7C - what is this? How can I find out which value is the not labeled capacitor? from the brown ceramic c's there is left: 33 4x 12 1x I2I 1x 39 1x 68 1x 27 1x 10 1x I (?) 1x blue ceramic c's 2.7C 1x and several other blue ones which are clear to me. 73! de Werner OE9FWV -- Wenn der Schutzmann die Arme gespreizt hat, will er damit verkünden, dass er gerade keinen fahren lässt. Email powered by Pegasus Mail free at http://www.pmail.com Homepage: http://www.qsl.net/oe9fwv/ Fone +43 5522 75013 Fax +43 820 555 85 2621 Mobile +43 664 6340014 Elecraft K2 #5203 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Stripping Enamel Wire (WAS: OT solder pot)
Hi If you happen to own a Hakko 808 desoldering gun then you can insert the toroid wire into the nozzle up to the core on the toroid. Then feed a little solder and pull the trigger. The enamel will be stripped off and the wire cleaned and tined all at the same time by the rush of air over the wire. This whole process takes about 10 seconds and gives perfectly stripped and tined leads. The only thing better is to buy them already wound, stripped and tined from the toroid guy Don Brown KD5NDB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Front Panel Woes
Hi The double stick tape can be a problem and if you mess it up you can just use some Scotch double stick tape you can get a an office supply store. You can even just use regular Scotch Magic tape to tape it to the front panel. The method I use for the supplied tape is first break the tape on the score line into two pieces then remove the white paper first and press the tape and brown paper onto the green filter. I usually make a small about 1/4 inch 45 degree cut on one corner of the filter to clear the front bezel screw. Then lifting the brown paper off of the green filter should leave the double stick tape in place on the filter. Finally I carefully align the filter with the cut out in the front panel and press it down. I then use a Q-tip to remove any finger prints from both sides of the filter. The front panels are usually taped for the 2-56 screws but if they are not the screws have a taper on them so they will cut the threads into the panel if required. Thread them into the panel first to cut the threads using a screwdriver that fits properly, I use a large jewelers screwdriver. Be careful not to over tighten the screws or you will strip the threads you just made. Then remove the screws and install the Plexiglas bezel. Again do not over tighten or you will crack the bezel or strip the threads. Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: Louis C. LaCour, Jr. [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2006 8:21 PM Subject: [Elecraft] Front Panel Woes Hello all: I had just finished up all the components for the front panel assembly, and was preparing for the Front Panel Final Assembly. After continued frustration, I decided this wasn't a good night to work on my K2. Problem 1: The double-backed tape for the green plastic bargraph filter is simply impossible to install. When I opened the serial number envelope to locate the bargraph filter and tape, I only saw one small, rectangular, brown something that I guessed was the tape. I then realized it was folded in two. Simple enough, right? I unfolded it and saw the two tape strips. After some struggle, I managed to release one side of the brown paper, and went to position it on the bargraph filter. But then I noticed it was not long enough; i.e., the manual illustration shows the tape going parallel to the long side of the filter, edge to edge. But it was too short to reach from side to side. OK, I thought, so what? It doesn't take much to hold this little piece of plastic in place. So I mounted it on the filter, and then mounted the other strip on the filter. Now for the fun part. No matter how hard I tried, I could not remove the OTHER piece of brown paper; i.e. the back side, to expose the other side of the adhesive (that would attach to the inside of the panel). Even using a powerful magnifier and razor blade, it just couldn't be done. Am I missing something here? Sigh. OK, I'll just skip to the clear plastic LCD bezel, and deal with this later, I thought Problem 2: The manual calls for the use of four 2-56 screws (stainless steel) to mount the bezel. No problem. I located the screws, lined up the bezel, got my tiny screwdriver, and proceeded. But the screw wouldn't start in the hole. Could it not be threaded, I thought?! Sure enough, none of the four holes is threaded - am I to cut threads in a steel panel with these tiny screws??!! I could try it, I suppose, but there's a very good chance they'll simply strip out the threads. Maybe the moon's in a bad phase; maybe there are astronomical forces conspiring against me, but for the first time in 29 pages of instruction I've come across two steps that are seemingly impossible. My heretofore high confidence in Elecraft guidance is on the wane... So, what gives, guys? Am I missing something obvious,or should I just take the night off and pop open a cold one? 73, Louis ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Wanted: circuit diagram
Hi I usually just scratch on the metal case of Q22 (the collector) with a screwdriver while holding it touching the metal shaft. This causes a random popping that the noise blanker handles nicely. You can switch the blanker on an off and here a big difference. If you want to build a pulse generator there are several circuits based on a LM555 that are easy to build. I think Radio Shack still sells 555's. Do a Googal search for National Semiconductor and down load the 555 data sheet. There should be several circuits listed Don Brown - Original Message - From: Karsten Eppert(DK4AS) [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2006 11:51 AM Subject: [Elecraft] Wanted: circuit diagram Hi folks, can anybody help me with a circuit diagram for a simple pulse-generator which I can use as test-generator in order to test the function of the KNB2? I figure 2 transistors will do, but can´t recall the rest. 73 Karsten DK4AS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT-SLA Battery advice
Hi I would try cycling them once or twice to assure they will meet specs. Connect each one to a variable power supply set for about 13.8-14.0 volts and let them charge until the current draw is just a few mA. Limit the maximum current with the power supplies current limiter or install a 2-5 ohm 10 watt resistor in series with the power supply and keep the maximum charge current below 1/3 of the amp hour capacity of the battery. For a 7 amp hour battery that would be 2.1 amps. After charging the battery then discharge it down to about 11 volts and see how long it takes. Multiply the time in hours by the current to get the amp hour capacity. This should be somewhere around the rating of the battery. You can use a old car headlight or a tail light as a load to discharge the battery. Do not allow the battery to discharge below 10 volts or you may damage it. A heavy load like a headlight will not give quite as much capacity as a lighter load like a tail light but you should get a feel for the condition of the battery with these tests. If the battery voltage falls off quickly under load or it will not take a charge then the battery is most likely shot and should be recycled. Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: Dan Barker [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 12:44 PM Subject: [Elecraft] OT-SLA Battery advice I have a bunch of 1,200 VA UPSs for my computers. These run two batteries each. 3 of them have bad batteries. I ordered a case (6 units) of BB7-12 to fix the bad ones. The bad UPSs each appear to have one good battery and one bad battery. I hate to take 3 apparently good batteries to the dump, but I hate to have my computers crash during the 60 seconds it takes my generator to come on line. Should I try to match up (How?) the used-good batteries with each other, discard them, test them (How?) or just dump them in the Battery bucket down at the local Recycling Center? Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] New Amplifiers ...
Hi I have no information on this but I think there is a specification from the FCC that any external HF band amplifier must require at least 50 watts of drive for full output. This is to keep the CB'ers from using the amps with the 4 watt CB rigs. There was even a lot of discussion about the KPA100 but it was approved because it can only driven with a K2 because of the tightly integrated control structure. It is really considered a part of the K2 not an external amp. I would expect the power amps to require the KPA100 although Elecraft has a way of surprising us in good ways when new products come out. There always seems to be more performance than you expect when final product is announced. Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: Dave White [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 7:59 AM Subject: [Elecraft] New Amplifiers ... I know that information on the new Elecraft amplifiers is scarce, but does anyone know if the K2 (15W) will be able to provide sufficient drive or will the KPA 100 be required? I'm trying to plan my future purchases ... Thanks Dave, VE6DRW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Bug simulator
Hi A few days ago someone was asking about a firmware change to make the K2 keyer work like a bug. It seems you should be able to do this using the auto hand key mode and a diode from the dah line to the dit line. With this wiring keying a dah would work like a hand key and you could hold the key as long as you want but when you key a dit the diode would disconnect the dah contact and the dit contact would work normally. This should make the K2 keyer work exactly like a bug. Just a thought. I have not tried it but it looks like it would work. Don Brown KD5NDB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Slightly off topic directional coupler question
Hi Many scopes will indicate quite a bit above the bandwidth. They just will not be usable for accurate measurement. The usual spec on the vertical amplifier is, the scope will measure 3 db down at the specified bandwidth. The rise time relates to bandwidth as BW/.35 for example a 100 MHz scope will have about a 3.5 nanosecond rise time. If you want to make accurate measurements of Pk to Pk amplitudes then you should have about twice the bandwidth of the measured signal. So assuming the HF bands of up to a little below 30 MHz a 60 MHz scope would work for you. If you just want an indicator for looking a modulation envelops and the exact vertical is just a relative measurement then a scope of 30 MHz would work. One other thing to consider the lower bandwidth scopes may not have a fast enough time base to display individual cycles or the trigger circuits may not work much above the bandwidth. Low cost scopes also have CRT that work with acceleration voltages of 4 to 8 Kv. This causes them to get very dim at high sweep speeds. Most of the Tek scopes have 20-24+ Kv CRT's One more thing you can bandwidth limit the 475 at 100 and 50 MHz. So you could test your setup at 50 MHz to see if a low cost 50-60 MHz scope would work for you Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: Rich McCabe [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 7:49 PM Subject: [Elecraft] Slightly off topic directional coupler question I have a question :) I only ask it here because its the best place for all my technical questions. OK, enough sucking up. I just built a new Elecraft directional coupler with the intent of using it for a station monitor. I have a Tektronix 475a that seems to work OK for what I play with. I want to get a smaller (physical size) digital scope to use with my K2 and this new coupler and use it for misc troubleshooting with HF gear. How far can I safely drop from my current 200mhz scope and get by? Thanks and 73, Rich kd0zv ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Update on Build of K2 #5324
Hi That depends on the serial number. If the older K2 is below 3000 and has not had the A to B mods installed then then the front panel, control board and RF board are not interchangeable. If both K2 are above 3000 then you are fine. Don Brown - Original Message - From: Paul Webb [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2006 7:11 PM Subject: [Elecraft] Update on Build of K2 #5324 HI all Doesn’t time fly, I started 5324 on Thursday and now im upto the second stage test, One Question, I have had is a missing part (RP1) from the front panel which means the switches don’t work correctly (Scotts sending me one) . I have another working K2 here so I will “borrow” that front plate to test My new one, I will use the new control board so I don’t see that that should be any problem do you??? Im Looking forward to doing the test’s in the morning and will report back with my results, good or bad later. All the best Paul M0BMN http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] firmware update?
Hi All new Elecraft products will have the latest firmware in effect at the time. The upgrade is so people with older K2's can add the newest features if they want. In some cases when adding an option module an older K2 will require the upgrade to make the option function. Don't worry you will get the latest firmware included with your K2 and any options you may order at the same time. Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: ON4WIX [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 2:30 PM Subject: [Elecraft] firmware update? Hi all, I'm new to this list and looking into building my own K2. This evening I was browsing the European distributor's online shop as I was getting ready to order the parts I thought were necessary. One of the options offered on the page is the firmware update, valued at 45,00 EUR. Is this only necessary for older K2 models or is it necessary to order this upgrade even with a brand new kit? Thanks for shedding a light on this subject. I can't wait to start building this baby... 73 from Belgium Glenn ON4WIX ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] NGEN - is it working?
Hi First make sure your 9 volt battery is good. It should measure at least 8 volts or higher. My N-Gen did not work also when I built it. The problem was the Zener diode was not producing noise. This sometimes happens with a particularly good diode. Remember this noise is normally an undesirable quality of a zener diode. I replaced the diode with a 2N3904 transistor using only the base and emitter leads. 2N3904 and 2N transistors make fairly good noise sources used this way. Just connect the emitter-base junction so it is reversed biased and it will break over at around 5 volts just like a zener diode. If you have several transistors select one with the best noise output. Don Brown - Original Message - From: Nick Waterman [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2006 9:23 AM Subject: [Elecraft] NGEN - is it working? Hopefully not a silly question... If I connect NGEN to my K2 but leave it switched off, I have a certain level of background noise. If I turn NGEN on, there's no noticeable increase in background noise. Have I missed something? Is AGC compensating for the increase in noise? ... or is my NGEN broken? I built it over Christmas and I've never actually noticed it working. The lights do the right thing, but apart from a very brief chuff when I switch it on, I'm not convinced it's producing any actual output. Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] NGEN - is it working?
Hi You can use your K2 as a tester for the N-gen. Just use a probe made up of some RG58 connected to the antenna input of the K2 and install a small capacitor (around .01) in series with the probe end. You can then touch the probe to the zener diode cathode. You should hear an increase in the noise level on the K2. If that is good then move on the the MMIC the output there should increase on the S-meter of the K2. The circuit is so simple it just about has to be the battery the zener diode or the MMIC in that order Don Brown - Original Message - From: Nick Waterman [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2006 11:23 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] NGEN - is it working? John D'Ausilio wrote: Noise increase should be unmistakable. Make sure the MMIC isn't in backwards :) I was wondering if I'd mounted it upside down, but as both the top and bottom leads are grounded, it looks as though, as long as the slanted lead is towards the centre of the board, I can't realistically get it wrong. If you have a key attached and happened to transmit into it, just order replacement MMIC (get 3, about $10 delivered :) from Elecraft. I'm an SSB guy, don't know CW YET. I don't have a key, I do have a PTT switch, but only recently... Basically... I built NGEN, XG1, DL1 without being able to test them. I built the K2 and had no PTT or key connected. I transmitted into DL1 for the bandpass filter tweaking, but did no other transmitting until after building KSB2. I can be just about positive I've never transmitted into NGEN... And even if I had, it definitely wouldn't have been the FIRST thing I'd done to it, and as far as I can tell, NGEN has never worked, or at least not noticably. I'll try testing with AGC off, NGEN connected, and XG1 sat nearby on the bench so I have a signal to compare with my noise or lack thereof. If it still doesn't work, can I be fairly confident that it's the MMIC, or might it be the Zenner D2? Or indeed anything else? There's no cheap and dirty signal tracing or table of voltages for NGEN, is there? -- Nosey Nick Waterman, G7RZQ, K2 #5209. use Std::Disclaimer;[EMAIL PROTECTED] Half the people you know are below average. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Product reviews for new mini-modules: XG2, BL2, 2T-Gen, CP1
Hi For those of you out there with OHR WM-2 wattmeters that want use it at higher powers of the K2/100 the CP1 is a great addition to your test equipment. With it installed inline with the dummy load it picks off a sample of the RF and feeds it to the WM-2. You can then use the one watt scale to measure 0-100 watts for the 20 db version or the 100mW scale for the 30 db version. I have found the accuracy of this setup is very good and I use it for aligning the KPA100 power meter. - Original Message - From: wayne burdick [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2006 11:31 AM Subject: [Elecraft] Product reviews for new mini-modules: XG2, BL2, 2T-Gen,CP1 The most recent additions to our line of high-performance mini-modules include the XG2 test oscillator, BL2 250W balun, 2T-Gen two-tone test generator, and CP1 directional coupler. Each of these now has an Eham product review page: BL2 http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/5646 XG2 http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/5647 2T-Genhttp://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/5648 CP1 http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/5650 We value the opinions expressed on Eham. Please use this well-organized forum to tell us (and everyone else) what you think about our products. 73, Wayne N6KR Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Oscilloscopes (WAS: spectrogram)
Hi Be careful buying older Tek scopes. Many of the repair parts are not available any more. You may get lucky and never need to repair one of these scopes but many of the parts were proprietary made custom for Tek or in the case of some of the IC's and CRT's were made only by Tek in there own fab. I worked for Tektronix for many years as a field maintenance instructor in the test and measurement division. My specialty was the 7000 series and the portable scopes among others. The reason the 7000 series is so cheap on Ebay is the problem of getting repair parts. The most common problem is with the cam switches and attenuators in both the 7000 and the 465 and 475 scopes. The 485 is even a generation earlier than the 465 or 475 so I would not ever consider one these scopes unless it had a good CRT, is in excellent condition and was virtually free. It also takes a real expert and some special equipment to properly tweak a 485 so it will meet specs. The 7000 series may be OK if you can buy two for a few hundred dollars. The second one for parts. I have a friend with a cal lab that has a warehouse full of broken 7000's that he uses for parts to keep the stuff he has under contract. Tek has a policy that they do not guarantee parts support seven years after a product is discontinued. The 465, 475 and most of the 7000 has exceeded that by two and the 485 by three However I personally own a 2465 and can highly recommend it. It is 400 Mhz four channel with both 1 meg ohm and 50 ohm inputs with dual timebase. This was the last of the really great analog scopes Tek made. This scope sold for over $5000 in the mid 80's and was worth every penny. I have seen them on Ebay for well under $1000 (I paid $800 for mine a couple of years ago) I know that is a lot of money to spend on a scope used for hobby work but a new scope with much less capability will cost as much or more. Ron Is correct on the bandwidth specification. Scopes are rated at 3 db down at the rated bandwidth. This means a 100 MHz scope can measure a one volt pk to pk 100 MHz sine wave at .707 volts and still be in spec. Also the probes are rated at a max bandwidth as well. If you use a 100 MHz probe on a 200 MHz scope then you will only have a 100 Mhz bandwidth at best Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: Alexandra Carter [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Ron D'Eau Claire [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Monday, January 23, 2006 9:13 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Oscilloscopes (WAS: spectrogram) Tektronix 475, baby! The 465 is OK, and the 485 a real 400MHz work of analog scope art I hope to own someday. Then if you're really serious you have a 7000-series mainframe and a lot of plugins hehe. A really good tutorial on scopes is Tektronix's The XYZ's Of Using A Scope which they used to give out, now you can download it from the net and the recent versions have a bunch of stupid stuff about their digital scopes - they tell such beautiful lies, stick to analog. 73 de Alex NS6Y. On Jan 23, 2006, at 7:06 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: Jim, AB4CZ gave you an excellent summary. If you think you'd like to use the 'scope for general bench work to look at waveforms, etc., on HF gear, then look for one with at least a 200 MHz bandwidth. ...If you try to observe signals on a narrower bandwidth oscilloscope, the higher-frequency information is simply lost. At today's Hamfest prices, the price difference between a basic waveform monitor and a good general purpose scope is often small, Ron AC7AC ___ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Oscilloscopes (WAS: spectrogram)
Hi In interesting piece of trivia. The DM44 sensor in the temperature probe is a 2n transistor. The circuit is similar to the temperature measuring circuit in the KPA100 used to monitor the heat sink temperature. Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: Stan Rife [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Monday, January 23, 2006 9:56 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Oscilloscopes (WAS: spectrogram) I have a 475 with the DM44 option, and a scad of different probes. It is on semi-permanent loan from my company (they have no need for it any longer). I have never used the DM44, but what looks interesting is that it will measure temperature in degrees C. I have the temperature probe and will get around to trying that out one of these days. I have never used an oscilloscope before about a couple of months ago, but I am trying to learn. The tutorial that Tek has on their website is pretty informative. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KIO2 - KPA100/EC2 interconnect cable
Hi I have built several K2/100's in this configuration. I used a 3 foot standard 50 ohm BNC to BNC cable and the multi conductor cable and 9 pin connectors that come with the KPA100. I got the 50 ohm cable a radio shack already assembled with crimped on connectors. If you do not have a KAT100 in the EC2 box you will need to install a chassis mount BNC on the back of the EC2 for the KPA100 RF input. Order an extra 2 pin male connector like used on the K2 RF board for the AUX RF connector. Solder this connector to the chassis mount BNC connector. Then you can plug in the cable from the KPA100 without needing to change out the cable in case you would ever want to reinstall the KPA100 into the K2 or if you later add the KAT100 to the EC2 box. If you also install the KAT100 in the EC2 box then the BNC RF in connector is on the KAT100 with an internal 2 pin connector for the KPA100 RF in cable. The 9 pin connectors on the KPA100 and KAT100 are internally wired in parallel so either can be used for the control. You will need the KIO2 installed in the K2 to supply the control signals for the KPA100 and KAT100. You will also need a short (about 1 foot) 50 ohm jumper cable with PL-259 connectors to connect the RF out of the KPA100 to the RF in on the KAT100. If you need to connect a computer to the RS232 then you must use the output from the KIO2 as the RS232 driver in the KPA100 is not connected to the K2 when mounted in the external box. You must build the special control and RS232 cables as described in the manual . Using a standard RS232 cable will damage the internal control IC's in the KPA100 or KAT100 Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: Steve Jackson [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2006 10:10 AM Subject: [Elecraft] KIO2 - KPA100/EC2 interconnect cable For those of you who have built your KPA100 in an EC2 (as a two-box configuration) what type cabe did you use to fabricate the interconnect? And, more importantly, why did you select whatever cable you did use? For example, did you use what was readily available, or did you buy a particular cable expressly for the purpose? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT: Help designing power supply and toroid transformer
Hi The first thing I see as a problem is the toroid transformer. At 60 Hz none of the common cores are going to work. You really need some steel in the core. I have seen some transformers made for 60 Hz wound on a spring steel toroid core. This is not something that is easy to build. I would use a small transformer from radio shack or even better a door bell transformer as they are very well shielded to meet class 2 UL requirements. On the input to the transformer use 2 .01 uf 600 volt caps from each input wire to earth ground. I would then come out to a bridge diode rectifier bypassed by .01uf caps across each diode. Then into a large filter cap about 2000-4000 uf also bypassed with a .01 uf disk across the filter cap for the RF bypass. If you are using a 10 volt doorbell transformer you should have about 14 volts DC at this point. From there I would use a three terminal regulator like a LM117 or LM337 followed by a 10 uf filter and finally pass both the plus and minus wires through a 1 inch ferrite toroid core several turns. If you would like me to draw up a schematic for you I could email it to in PDF format. There are many other ways to do this this is just one off the top of my head. Someone may come up with a better idea but these simple power supplies are fun and easy to build Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: Daniel Reynolds [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 8:54 AM Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Help designing power supply and toroid transformer This is slightly off topic - but since there is such a generous group of guys that are very knowledgable in electronics (and since my brain is a little soft in this area), I think I'll toss this request out and hope for the best. First off - please reply off the list since this does not pertain directly to Elecraft equipment (except that it might be fun to eventually take the same design and build a larger p/s for the K2/QRP). My goal is to build a non-switching, voltage regulated 9V/1.5A power supply with enough isolation and filtering to keep RFI out of a Grundig Satellite 800. My father has one of these radios, and so do I (unfortunately, he lives out of state - so I couldn't compare the two radios and p/s side by side). When I visited him over the holidays, I discovered that the OEM power supply my father has is either producing RFI or is conducting RFI, because he can tune in daytime AM/MW signals from over 100 miles away when running the thing on batteries, but he has a hard time with signals beyond 50 miles away as soon as he plugs the power supply into the outlet (this was AFTER we already turned off the worst RFI generating offenders in the house). The Grundig Sat 800 power requirements are spec'd at 7-10V DC up to 1 Amp (530mA with 1/4W output and lamp off, and 830mA with 1/4W output and lamp on), and it says in the manual that the supplied adapter is 9V/1.5A. I've got an old 1987 copy of the handbook which I've got up in the attic for reference, and I realize some of the basic things (from my license/testing days) that go into a power supply (transformer, diodes, capacitors, inductors, regulators). I want to actually build my own power supply from scratch - starting with the transformer. If I'm not mistaken, I should be able to use a medium-large toroid core and some heavy wire to do this. [I could go down to Radio Shack and buy a wall wart, but I want to actually make something that is going to work 'really well' in terms of reducing RFI passing through the AC power supply - something that a cheap power adapter probably won't be designed for.] So - here's where I'm hoping you can help me with... What core (size and material composition) should I use for transforming an AC signal? How many windings of what kind of wire would be the 'best' for the power requirements of this supply? Should I build a 120/12V transformer and voltage regulate it down to 9V, or would it be better to simply build a 120/9V transformer and rectify the AC and smooth it out with passive components? How can I best filter out RFI being carried on the AC line? Are there any other considerations I should be aware of? Do you know of any helpful websites I should visit (I haven't googled this topic yet)? I'm sorry to waste the bandwidth of others here. Any help supplied is greatly appreciated! - Daniel AA0NI Oklahoma City ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post
Re: [Elecraft] Cure for oxidized contacts (CAIG)
Hi Try: http://www.deoxit.com/ Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 4:09 PM Subject: [Elecraft] Cure for oxidized contacts (CAIG) Try a product called CAIG Deoxit. Best I've used. Radio Shack sells for (it ain't cheap) about $15 for a small spray can somewhat bigger than a man's thumb. The package also contains an equally small can of stuff for gold contacts. It will rejuvenate old flashlites. I used it on the plug which connects my RV to my truck and the electris brakes seem to work better. RS also sells a Deoxit pen which would work better if you can access the worksite easily. If anyone knows of a source of larger cans please let me know. Hope this is not a dupe. Tried to send earlier. George, N4YM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Folding Solar Panel
Hi I use 14 volts times the current delivered to calculate the wattage of a panel. The open circuit voltage is only useful to get an idea of how much overhead you have and is determined by the number of cells in series. Each cell will produce about .5 volts at a current determined by the size of the cell and the amount of light falling on the cell. This folding panel has 40 cells that are 1 1/4x 1 3/4 each. I measured 380 mA into a fully charged battery at 14 volts. .38 times 14 volts is 5.32 watts. This is what I based my statement of an output exceeding 5 watts. I have panels that output as low as 18 volts and some as high as 30 volts open circuit but as solar panels are constant current devices the open circuit voltage is really not critical as long as it is somewhat over the batteries maximum terminal voltage plus any circuit drops in the wiring or controller. My controllers use power fets with very low on resistance and shottkey blocking diodes so the drop is less than 2 volts at full rated power. I would prefer the panels were rated in current but that is not the case. Most of them are rated in watts and I have found that using 14 volts (assuming a 12 volt system) as the charging voltage gets you fairly close to the rated current the panel can produce in typical situations. This allows you to at least compare panels from different sources as well as give you an idea of what your charging current will be before you spend money on a panel. Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: Mike Harris [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 4:40 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Folding Solar Panel G'day folks, SNIP Calculating the wattage of solar panels by using the open circuit voltage and short circuit current does not represent a real world operating condition, albeit a common method used by manufacturers to mug the unwary. From bitter experience (hill top solar powered microwave telephone network repeaters) I reached the conclusion that once you have got the nominal solar panel/system voltage matched all you are interested in is current into and out of the battery. Batteries operate in a world of current, Ah capacity, watts are virtually meaningless, only giving a rough guide to panel dimensioning for a given load. Regards, Mike VP8NO ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Folding Solar Panel
Hi All I finally got the solar panels mentioned below so here is a report on them. The panel is 5.5x8 when folded and has 5 sections 4 of which have solar cells. There are 4 metal grommets in the corners of the end panels for mounting with rope or bungee cords. It comes with a 10ft cord that can be removed and a cigarette lighter socket adapter. The panel is housed in a nylon fabric and is simi-flexiable. I measured the output at 20 volts open circuit and 380mA in noon sun. This is over 5 watts and the sun is not as bright this time of year so it should do even better in the summer when the sun is higher overhead. I connected it to one of my low power controllers and a 2.8 amp gel cell battery and it had the controller cycling within a few minutes although the battery was not really discharged much. The bottom line is this would make a great panel for backpackers as it folds up into a small package and is only a few ounces. It is much more practical and lighter than a VW panel as well as more powerful. It can charge a small gel cell or a 10 cell pack of NiMH batteries to run a K1 or KX1 in addition it could also charge a cell phone, GPS, IPod or lamp as long as you monitored the charge time. With one of my low power controllers and a small 1-3 amp hour gel cell you could leave the battery on charge all day without worry of overcharging. Don Brown Hi All I just ordered 2 solar panels from Northerntool.com to experiment with. These panels are on close out and are rated at 5 watts. They appear to be about 4x5 when folded and fold out into 5 sections. It has a weather proof nylon shell with grommets at the corners for mounting. This looks like a great little panel for backpacking or other portable use. They are only $35 on sale now catalog number 339974-1615. I have seen similar panels go for much more than this and these are higher power than the popular VW panels. A small 2-5 amp gel cell and one of my low power solar controllers would be great for a K1 or KX1. You can also easily charge a 10 cell 2000-2500 mAH NiMH battery pack without a controller as long as you did not leave them on charge too long, about 4-5 hours with full sun. Usual disclaimers no connection with Northern Tool Don Brown KD5NDB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Frozen K2
Hi Did you try a master reset. Hold down buttons 3,4 and 5 while powering on. If this fixes the problem you will need to run CAL PLL and reset all of your filters as well as any other settings you may have made. This resets everything to factory defaults. This may clear the lock up. Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: Rolf [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Friday, December 30, 2005 11:05 AM Subject: [Elecraft] Frozen K2 Hi, My K2 #4979 has worked fine until now. Suddenly the poor thing appears to be dead. When powered on the display first shows ELECRAFT then 7100.00 and a constant sound hears. It does not respond to any buttons or knobs, except for the power knob. I believe that a bad extension cord is to blame. But what can I do get live in my dear friend again? Anyone who knows? Best 73s Rolf SM0YQC Stockholm, Sweden ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Folding solar panel
Hi All I just ordered 2 solar panels from Northerntool.com to experiment with. These panels are on close out and are rated at 5 watts. They appear to be about 4x5 when folded and fold out into 5 sections. It has a weather proof nylon shell with grommets at the corners for mounting. This looks like a great little panel for backpacking or other portable use. They are only $35 on sale now catalog number 339974-1615. I have seen similar panels go for much more than this and these are higher power than the popular VW panels. A small 2-5 amp gel cell and one of my low power solar controllers would be great for a K1 or KX1. You can also easily charge a 10 cell 2000-2500 mAH NiMH battery pack without a controller as long as you did not leave them on charge too long, about 4-5 hours with full sun. Usual disclaimers no connection with Northern Tool Don Brown KD5NDB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KPA100
Hi The 8T signal is not used in any Elecraft option. It is unlikely you would use it in a homebrew project as the 8R line is the inverse and allows an adjustable delay for keying or relay switching. The key in the plug is much more useful as it prevents you from installing the connector backwards possibly damaging components on the K2 control board or KPA100. I do not cut the pin off. I heat it on the back of the board and gently pull it out with pliers after all the other pins are soldered. At least doing it this way allows the pin to be reinserted if it should ever become necessary. Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: Evert Bakker (PA2KW) [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Elecraft e-mail reflector Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2005 2:45 PM Subject: [Elecraft] KPA100 Hello all, Finally after 8 month I'm building the KPA100 module and hope to install this option next weekend. But when reading the manual on page 21 it is suggested to cut pin 4 of the P4 connector (used for the ribbon cable) as to introduce some kind of a key. Except if you expect to use this pin (8T 8-volt transmit) for any reason. I can't figure out at this stage if I will need this signal for any kind of homebrew option. I hate cutting pins and find out next month that I shouldn't have done it. Does anyone know about any kind of modification that might need this 8T line? Thanks in advance. Evert, PA2KW K2 : sn 4836 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] A question about low sensitivity
Hi Double check T7. Make sure the green winding is in 1 and 2 and the red winding is in 3 and 4 closest to the IC U12. If it is backwards the sensitivity will be low, the audio will be low and the AGC will not work properly although everything else will appear OK. Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: Joseph Reed [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Wednesday, December 28, 2005 8:35 AM Subject: [Elecraft] A question about low sensitivity Hi guys, Been a while since I last kept up with the list. You were a great source of help back when I built K2 #1133. Now I have #5226 and have completed the second section of construction. The receiver works, I can hear stations on 40. Yesterday I listed to Mid-Cars, Southcars, and Eastcars. But they were only moderatly loud and I had AF gain full out. On the IC-756 Pro they were booming. On the radio I thought the AGC voltage might have been too high. 3.80 volts on the nose. T-34 tunes very well, as do L-1 and L-2. Every other test and alignment to this point was well within specs. Any ideas as to why it is not hearing well? Or should I not be concerned at this stage of construction and press on to stage 3. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] New Solar controller Kits
Hi I have a new version of my Solar Controller Kit for low to medium power systems. The new version uses the same circuit and PC board as my high power kit but replaces the more expensive 75 amp FET and two 8 amp shottkey diodes with a less expensive 12 amp FET and a 3 amp shottkey diode. This version also does not need the heat sink on the FET as well. I have added another couple of pages to the documentation with information on proper sizing of the battery and panel as well as a color photo of the completed board, bringing it up to six pages total. The new low power version will work with solar panels from 3 watts to 35 watts (I include information on increasing this to 70 watts) It can charge SLA batteries from 1 amp/hour to over 100 amp/hour ratings with proper sizing of the solar panel. A 3 watt Volkswagen panel, a 1 to 3 amp hour SLA battery and this controller is perfect for a KX1 or K1. For a QRP K2 a 10 to 15 watt panel and 3-7 amp battery is ideal. This controller could even run a K2/100 for several hours per day with a 30 watt panel and a 35 amp/hour battery. The price for this new low power version is $20 or $35 for two kits with one set of documentation. Cash check or money order. I have also been supplying the high power version of the Solar Charge Controller Kit for several years. This controller will keep a SLA or LA 12 volt battery charged from solar panels of 3 to about 200 watts. Batteries of 2 amp hour to 110 amp/hour have been used with these controllers. This kit includes the above documentation and the high power FET, diodes and heat sink to allow up to a maximum of about 200 watts of solar panels to be connected. The kit is $30 or $55 for two kits with one set of documentation. Cash check or money order. The kit includes a 2x3 inch silk screened and solder masked fiberglass circuit board, all the parts and documentation required to build the controller, less a box to mount it into. There is also a 6 volt version available. These controllers use a precision regulator IC in an analog design that does not generate RF noise. There are no adjustments required and the assembly and check out time should be under one hour. I also still have about 6 of the low power version one of the controller. This controller will handle up to 1.5 amps or about 20 watts. This version will power a KX1, K1 or QRP K2. The price for this version is $16. The above low power controller will replace this version when these are gone. order from: Don Brown KD5NDB 19132 Falls Creek Drive Flint, Texas 75762 The price includes US postage Thanks Don ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Other uses for the Solar Controller Kit
Hi Tom Hammond suggested I mention that my solar controller does not really need a solar panel to work as a battery charge controller. Any power supply that can be current limited in the 16 to 24 volt range can be used as well. A 18 volt transformer, rectifier and filter cap and large limiting resistor will work. To figure the limiting resistor use ohms law to get the value. For example for 2 amps charging current and a 20 volt power supply subtract 11 volts for the discharged battery voltage from the power supply voltage. That is 9 volts divided by 2 amps is 4.5 ohms. To get the power rating for the resistor square the voltage drop that equals 81 and divide by the resistance 4.5 ohms that equals 18 watts. Add some margin to the resistor for safety and a 2 amp fuse to protect the power supply in case the battery should have a shorted cell or other defect. I would use a 20-25 watt resistor. You can use this power supply or a solar panel to charge the battery with the controller depending on your needs. The controller can be mounted in your battery box and either the power supply or solar panel can plug into the controller. Thanks Don Brown KD5NDB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Hakko 808 users ?
Hi It is also the best way to strip and tin toroid leads short of ordering them from Mychael the torid guy Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: Tom Hall [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Friday, December 09, 2005 8:57 AM Subject: [Elecraft] Hakko 808 users ? Bill, I went to http://www.n0ss.net for Hakko Help; lots of good advice. The 808 is a great tool - I look at it as a builders undo button. Tom, AK2B ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: RE: [Elecraft] K2 BFO Test
Hi Don and All I have used this method on 3 or 4 of the K2's I have built. I use a 1pF or 2pF NPO cap to lower the bottom end of the range to get it to meet the spec. I agree with you on pulling the crystal much with this method. I would not recommend cap values above maybe 3 or 4 pF. I have never needed more than 1 pf. Padding C173 and C174 is a better method if the radio needs more than 1 or 2 pf. I believe this method was suggested by Gary at Elecraft some time back. At any rate it is a little easier to do than the padding or change out of C174 and C173 The other Don Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Thursday, December 08, 2005 5:03 PM Subject: RE: RE: [Elecraft] K2 BFO Test Sverre, I have not tried that small capacitor from the junction of the crystals and L33 so I cannot comment on it from that standpoint. What I would like to state is that when one pulls a crystal by any method, the stability becomes worse as the amount of pulling becomes greater. One should be aware of this and related facts when modifying any circuit in a way that is not 'approved and tested'. Also due to the nature of crystals, something that happens to work in one situation may not work the same for all cases. Remember that I am only bringing up cautions here, I am not makeing a firm statement about the operation one way or another. It certainly would be nice if someone (or better yet, several someones) with access to suitable instrumentation could try this or any other mod and report the results. The fact that it worked on a sample of one does not create a statement that it will work in other cases - that is simple statistical knowledge - I would like to see something that says it works in at least 5 or 10 trials before drawing any firm conclusions. So, yes I think it should be left on your website, but you may want to put a Use at your own peril disclaimer on all those that are not 'approved by Elecraft' or otherwise adequately tested (and I invite you to add any of my mods to that group as well, even though I have absolute confidence in my own work). 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- The preferred method of padding the BFO capacitors is to maintain the ratio between C173 and C174 by paralleling them with capacitors. A single capacitor from the junction to ground will be in parallel with the series combination of C173 and the varactor D38 and could make the BFO less stable than it should be. Don, How about a single capacitor (1-4 pF) from the junction of the crystals and the L33 inductor as in http://www.ac6rm.net/mailarchive/html/elecraft-list/2005-08/msg00562.html? Does that create potential stability problems also? I've got this link on my K2 mods page and just wanted to make sure I can recommend it and keep it there. I have never had any problems with BFO range myself so I have no personal experience with this myself. 73 Sverre LA3ZA http://www.qslnet.de/la3za/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Soler Controllers
Hi I have been supplying a Solar Charge Controller Kit for several years. This controller will keep a SLA or LA 12 volt battery charged from solar panels of 3 to about 150 watts. Batteries of 2 amp hour to 110 amp hour have been used with these controllers. The new batch of circuit boards I received had a problem from the board supplier and had to be made over. This delayed shipment on a few orders but I have the corrected circuit boards now and all orders have shipped. (The silk screen was on the wrong side of the board.. go figure.) The kit is $30 or two for $50 check or money order and includes all the parts and documentation required to build the controller, less a box to mount it into. I also still have about 8-10 of the low power controller. This controller will handle up to 1.5 amps or about 20 watts. This version will power a KX1, K1 or QRP K2. The price for this version is $16 order from: Don Brown KD5NDB 19132 Falls Creek Drive Flint, Texas 75762 The price includes US postage Thanks Don ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 stripped final's screw removal
Hi I believe the screws loosen due to the thermal pads compressing not the screws backing off. The lock washers should prevent the screws from backing off and locktite may make the screws impossible to remove. Once the pads are fully compressed the screws should not loosen, but it may take a couple of times at 10-20 hour operation intervals to fully compress the pads. These pads are not insulators, they are for heat transfer only and they have a coating that slightly melts under high temperature. This coating fills all of the gaps under heat and compression and forms a good thermal path to the heatsink. Sears sells a small kit of stripped screw removal tools. These tools bite into the head of a stripped screw making it easy to remove. Screwdrivers will ware out and start slipping in the slots. Mt favorite screwdriver is a magnetic hand tool that holds the bits for power drivers. These bits are much harder than most standard screwdrivers and can be easily swapped out if they are worn. The magnet also holds the screw for starting or removing and the handle of the screwdriver holds several different bits. The handle of this screwdriver locks or it can ratchet in either direction. Most large hardware stores carry these screwdrivers. Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: Bob Evans [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Monday, November 21, 2005 7:40 PM Subject: [Elecraft] KPA100 stripped final's screw removal Hi Folks, This may not be a very high tech solution, but it got me out of a perceived pickle. I had stripped one of the screws securing the final transistors to the heat sink in one of my K2/100s. I was thinking how the heck am I going to remove a stripped screw in such a tight space?. A friend had suggested super gluing a Phillips screwdriver into the stripped screw. I tried it and the super glue didn't hold. Then I thought I could drill and tap the screw out, but I couldn't find a tap that was small enough. What finally worked was simply to drill into the center of the screw until the screw head detached from the screw shaft. It took a 5/64 bit. I had loosened all the other screws on the board and the board simply lifted away from the heat sink when the screw head separated from the shaft. With the board removed, the screw shaft could easily be unscrewed from the heat sink and replaced with a new screw. By the way, I turned the KPA100 board screw-head-down when I drilled so there wouldn't be much of a chance for metal splinters getting into the board. It worked! I have always used a high quality #1 screwdriver when I tightened these screws, but it stripped out anyway. I use my K2/100s exclusively for contesting and have been finding I need to re-tighten those screws after 20-30 hours of full bore operating (100 watts, lots of CQs). Maybe a Lock-tight type product is needed to keep the screws from backing out after thermal cycling, but some of you may have some advice whether this should be done or not. Anyway, in case you find your final's screw stripped, this method worked for me. P.S. I played around in ARRL SS SSB this past weekend. The K2 is a GREAT side band radio too! I know, I know.I can get ejected from this reflector for such heresy. ;-) 73, Bob K5WA K2s #4687 and #5119 in SO2R configuration ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Replacement K1 tune pot.?
Hi The P/N is 652-3540S-1-104 Don Brown - Original Message - From: Sandy, W5TVW [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Monday, November 21, 2005 7:50 AM Subject: [Elecraft] Replacement K1 tune pot.? Some time ago someone posted a Mouser or whoever's catalog number for a metal shaft replacement tuning pot. I can't find the e-mail in my messages received file. Can someone give me correct number for this item? Mine is just about worn out now and getting sloppy. 73, Sandy W5TVW K1 #1178 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Microphones
Hi I have used the model 701 hand mike sold by TenTec on the K2. This mike comes with a 4 pin connector but if you change it to the 8 pin used on the K2 and add the 5.6K resistor from the +5 volt pin to the AF pin on the front panel board it works fine. It only costs $28. If you add the bias resistor most headsets for cell phones should work also if you change the connector or build an adapter cable with a PTT button. Most dynamic mikes do not have enough output to properly drive the K2 without a preamplifier. The electrit capacitor mikes like the TenTec or headsets work fine. The MH2 hand mike sold by Elecraft has been discontinued. This mike had a electrit element inside it. Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: Wayne Reed [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2005 2:09 PM Subject: [Elecraft] K2 Microphones Gang, Just put the SSB board in my K2 [S/N 4858]. I have tried my Shure 444 with the K2 and seem to have no drive. I think I will try a portable telephone headset. I will need to get some bias for the mike from the K2 then I'll find out if I have a problem with the SSB board or my old trusty 444. Would like to hear from those who have used cheap/nonstandard microphones with the K2. Wayne K9NE ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Solar Controller
Hi I have been supplying a Solar Charge Controller Kit for several years. This controller will keep a SLA or LA 12 volt battery charged from solar panels of 3 to about 150 watts. Batteries of 2 amp hour to 110 amp hour have been used with these controllers. I have a new batch of circuit boards that have just arrived. The kit is $30 check or money order and includes all the parts and documentation required to build the controller, less a box to mount it into. Below is a FAQ about the controller. I also still have a small quantity of the low power controller. This controller will handle up to 1.5 amps or about 20 watts. This version will power a KX1, K1 or QRP K2. The price for this version is $16 order from: Don Brown KD5NDB 19132 Falls Creek Drive Flint, Texas 75762 The price includes US postage Thanks Don Solar Controller FAQ: What is it and what does it do? This is a small 2x3 circuit board that allows you to connect a solar panel to a 12 volt sealed lead acid or lead acid battery to keep it charged. The kit comes with instructions, application notes and all parts required to build the controller. The included circuit board is FR4 fiberglass with silk screen and solder mask. The kit does not include a box as most people build it into their battery box. How much power can it handle? The controller uses a 45 amp power fet to switch the solar panel on and off. The current that the controller can handle is limited by the shottkey blocking diodes. I use two of them in parallel rated at 8 amps each so 12-15 amps is the maximum safe charging current. This equates to about a 150 to 200 watt panel What size battery will work with the controller? You can use almost any size battery with the controller although for best results the battery should be sized to the solar panel you are going to use. A rule of thumb is about 2 watts per amp hour has worked well for me although your mileage may vary. For the K2's 2.9 amp hour internal battery a 5-10 watt panel would keep you on the air. For a K2/100 running 70-100 watts a 90-110 amp hour battery and 80-150 watts of solar panels would work. I have used 2 35 watt panels and a 80 watt panel in parallel for 150 watts into a 110 amp hour sla battery. Can I charge the K2 internal battery with the solar panel and controller? Yes the internal battery can be charged as long as the charge controller is connected directly to the battery through a properly sized fuse. You cannot connect the controller to the normal K2 power connector. You will need to supply a connector on the K2 to connect the charge controller or build the controller into the K2 lid and install a connector for the solar panel. Will it work with other types of batteries like NiCad's or NiMH? No it is designed to work only with 12 volt Lead Acid or Sealed Lead Acid (gel cell) batteries Is there a 6 volt version? Yes the instructions explain how to change the controller to 6 volts. I will supply the parts on request for 6 volts. How does it compare with the MicroM+? My controller functions exactly the same as the MicroM+ although I use a different IC and different circuit design. My controller is much simpler and includes a circuit to turn off the charge indicator LED when the solar panel is not outputting enough voltage to charge the battery. My controller will handle more current than the MicroM+ and because of the precision voltage reference in the IC it does not have or require any adjustments. Does the controller generate any RF noise? No this a purely analog switch circuit. It does not have any switching power supplies that generate RF noise How much does it cost? $30 check or money order. Sorry no credit cards or paypal Thanks Don Brown KD5NDB 19132 Falls Creek Drive Flint, Texas 75762 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 receiver problem - AGC alignment, CAL S LO/HI
Hi The last K2 I built had strange AGC and S-meter operation that sounds like the one you are working on. The problem was I had skipped installing the toroid RFC11 on the bottom of the board. It is amazing the K2 worked at all but it received fairly well. I could even hear the 1 uV signal from the XG2. Anyway installing the RFC solved the problem. May be worth a look to see if you have the same problem Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: Gerhard Schwanz [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, November 11, 2005 2:23 AM Subject: [Elecraft] K2 receiver problem - AGC alignment, CAL S LO/HI Hi list, hi all those who answered my first question. I had 4V at Pin5 U2. So I replaced R1 with a pot of 50k and set it to 3.65, 3.72 and 3.8V. It got better for sure. The difference between AGC on and off is in all cases noticable, but slightly. But I think it's significant, because... When I CAL S LO and exit it then immediately 1-2 bars of the s-meter start lighting. So I guess AGC sets in. And this should not be the case, I guess? Any idea? Have a nice day, Gerhard - Original Message - From: Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: GS [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, November 09, 2005 3:35 PM Subject: RE: RE: [Elecraft] K2 receiver problem Gerhard, If you have a K2 with serial number greater than 3000, the AGC adjustment pot is on the Control Board near the right end - the designation is R1. For K2 with SN under 3000, there is no pot, and R1 is a fixed resistor. Same procedure applies - change the value of R1 to set the AGC threshold. It is easy to substitute a temporary pot (50K will do fine) to make the adjustment - once the right value is found, solder in the closest value fixed resistor. In my experience, the fixed resistor that one would end up with will vary between 33K at the low end and 47k at the high end. BTW, if this receiver has worked properly before and suddenly developed this problem, look more closely for a failed component - it will likely be in the AGC area - see the control board schematic in the lower left corner. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- From: GS [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, November 09, 2005 9:48 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Ant: RE: [Elecraft] K2 receiver problem Hi Don, I can't find how to set the AGC threshold for optimum receiver sensitivity, neither in the manual nor is there any hint in the circuit. At least not for me ;-) Only threshold mentioned in the manual is for the NB... WHAT do I have to adjust to achieve max. voltage at U2 pin 5, ctrl board? Thanks!!! Gerhard --- Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] schrieb: Gerhardt, It sounds like the AGC Threshold is not set properly. I would proceed by first checking the alignment of the bandpass filters in Transmit mode (at 2 watts) and then set the AGC Threshold for optimum receiver sensitivity - with no antenna connected and AF and RF Gains set to max, adjust for the highest voltage at Control Board U2 pin 5 which yields no change in the audio noise when switching the AGC between OFF and ON. That will usually result in a voltage in the range of 3.65 to 3.8 volts at U2 pin 5. Set the S-meter end points (CAL S Hi and CAL S-Lo) after setting the threshold. If that does not cure the problem, then look for a problem in the IF receive chain - that will be where the signal tracing is required, follow the p[rocedure for receiver signal tracing in the Troubleshooting appendix of the K2 manual. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- got a K2 from another OM on my workbench. It's got a receiver problem and I just want to make sure I do the checks in the correct order and I'm looking for hints, if available! Thanks in advance! So here's the problem and what I want to do. It seems the receiver runs with handbrake on. So the s-meter shows 3 bars without an antenna but the rf gain is fully clockwise. I can reduce signals to zero (using RF gain) with this K2 which I can't using my own K2. So mine has a higher sensitivity. Any idea what's wrong? What I want to do: - s-meter alignment - I.F. amplifier alignment - (maybe band pass alignment) - signal tracing receiver and synthesizer Kind regards Gerhard DH3FAW ___ Gesendet von Yahoo! Mail - Jetzt mit 1GB Speicher kostenlos - Hier anmelden: http://mail.yahoo.de -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version
Re: [Elecraft] Ques on Elecraft/Heil headset mic
hi mine has the ic label on it also. The Heil mikes for Elecraft radios use the Icom element as it has a higher output than the dynamic elements. Check the menu to make sure you don't have the mike attenuator turned on. Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: Steve Uhrig [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Friday, November 11, 2005 9:13 PM Subject: [Elecraft] Ques on Elecraft/Heil headset mic Hi all, I'm trying to shoot down an ongoing low TX audio problem on 75 meters with my K2 s/n 661 upgraded to latest everything courtesy of N0SS. I bought a Heil headset from Elecraft to replace a thoroughly worn out $2 computer headset. The computer headset worked fine, but was uncomfortable and wore out in only a few years. The Heil headset works seemingly OK, but I notice the mike boom on the headset has the first two letters of the iC (OM) logo on it. Could someone else check their Heil/Elecraft headset and advise what label is on the boom where it attaches to the side of the headset? Mine has a small round white label. Want to eliminate a potential wrong mic element in the headset before digging any deeper. Tks all Steve WA3SWSK2 s/n 661 *** Steve Uhrig, SWS Security, Maryland (USA) Mfrs of electronic surveillance equip mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] website http://www.swssec.com tel +1+410-879-4035, fax +1+410-836-1190 In God we trust, all others we monitor *** ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] running an external amp?
Hi If you build the KPA100 into an EC2 box externally and your K2 has a KAT2 the firmware will place the KAT2 into bypass mode and select Ant 1. This is the same as using a amp made by some other supplier except the K2 will not be able to detect the amp. The KAT2 bypass mode and Ant 1 can be selected manually in this case. Another option would be to disconnect the RF cable to the KAT2 and just use the BNC output on the back of the K2. Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: Vic K2VCO [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2005 10:17 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] running an external amp? K6MR wrote: Not sure if you mean the KAT-2 or the KAT-100, but I drive both my amps with the KAT-100s in line from both radios. I don't know how the tuner would know the difference between an antenna or an amplifier input network. I just let the tuner cycle (it's real quick) using the tune button the first time I activate the amp. Then use the keyer to tune with dits. The KAT2 and KAT100 are pretty similar. The difference between an antenna and an amplifier input network is that the impedance seen when driving an amplifier changes as the amplifier is driven harder! So you can get a sort of unstable condition in which the tuner tries to match a varying impedance. This is probably not harmful since you are tuning at reduced power, but it's not clear that the tuner will find an appropriate match. That's why I recommend tuning the K2 into a 50-ohm dummy load first, and then using it to drive the amp. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] New CP1 kit and WM-2
Hi All Elecraft has a new minikit, a directional coupler model CP1. This kit can be built as a 20 db or 30 db directional coupler. The coupler is usually used with a spectrum analyzer but I find it works perfectly with my OHR WM-2 QRP wattmeter. Just connect the CP1 in series with your dummy load and connect the WM-2 to the forward output of the CP1. Set the reverse switch to terminated and the forward switch to the output connector. I you have a 20 db CP1 then select 0-1 watt on the WM-2 and the meter will read 0-100 watts with very good accuracy. If you have a 30 db CP1 then use the 0-100 mW range on the WM-2 for a 0-100 watt scale. This setup is great for testing and calibrating a KPA100 or KPA100/KAT100. I use a OHR 100 watt dummy load or a TenTec #239 300 watt dummy load. Either of these dummy loads work great with this setup and they are both available in kit form. For up to 20 watts you can use the Elecraft DL1. The 20 db version of the CP1 is exactly 20 db in reduction so the accuracy is very good. Elecraft specifies the 20 db version at 25 watts but I have not seen any problems with it at 100 watts in this 50 ohm environment. If you build the CP1 as a 30 db coupler the accuracy is not quite as good as the divide ratio is really 29.8 db but it is rated at 250 watts. You could tweak the 100 mW range of the WM-2 to account for the divide ratio on the CP1. You can do a quick check of the calibration with a scope and a X10 probe. Check at 10 watts, 50 watts and 100 watts. 10 watts is 63 volts pk to pk, 50 watts is 141 volts pk to pk and 100 watts is 200 volts pk to pk across the 50 ohm load measured with the scope. Remember scopes measure peak to peak not RMS. You should use a X10 probe as most scopes will not measure this high of voltage without the probe and the X10 probe also isolates the input capacitance of the scope so you do not load the dummy load with capacitance making it reactive. Don Brown KD5NDB BTW As Elecraft is no longer supplying a hand mike for the K2. I have found the hand mike from TenTec works fine if you change the 4 pin connector out to the 8 pin that fits the K2 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Solar controller Kit
Hi I have been supplying a Solar Charge Controller Kit for several years. This controller will keep a SLA or LA 12 volt battery charged from solar panels of 3 to 150 watts. Batteries of 2 amp hour to 110 amp hour have been used with these controllers. I am currently sold out of the kits but I have just ordered another batch of circuit boards that should be here in about 3 weeks. The kit is $30 check or money order and includes all the parts and documentation required to build the controller, less a box to mount it into. I still have a few of the low power version of this kit (1.5 amp) in stock at $16. This kit will supply plenty of power to charge a small SLA battery for a K1, KX1 or QRP K2. order from: Don Brown KD5NDB 19132 Falls Creek Drive Flint, Texas 75762 Thanks Don ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Top Posting
Hi If you have cats it must roll from the back or it will be all on the floor Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: Paul T. Rubin [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; 'Elecraft Reflector' elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Monday, October 03, 2005 11:57 PM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Top Posting OK guys and gals, this is getting very close to the neverending discussion of which way the toilet paper should roll. It rolls clockwise in the northern hemisphere. (Sorry folks, I just couldn't resist.) Paul N8NOV Houston (Northern Hemisphere) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] 160 fixed in KPA100 and some tips.
Hi Elecraft uses the convention that pin one of most components has a round pad and all other pads are rectangular. The round pad at pin one can be easily mistaken for a board feed through and can be missed when soldering. I have made this error several times on the 15 K2's I have built. I now always solder pin one first on all parts to make sure this does not happen (although it still happened on the one I am building now on a relay pin in the VFO) Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: Jess Gypin [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Elecraft@Mailman.Qth.Net elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2005 11:08 PM Subject: [Elecraft] 160 fixed in KPA100 and some tips. SNIP I pulled the board and DOH!! found that I had not soldered pin 1 of U2. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Tilt Stands
Hi Yes the K2 comes with the stand. The EC2 and Kat100 do not come with the stands so that is why they are for sale on the price list Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: Nick Waterman [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Sunday, September 18, 2005 11:40 AM Subject: [Elecraft] Tilt Stands Quick Q - still choosing my options and saving my pennies for a K2... K2 comes with a tilt stand, right? ETS15 and ETS2 are not required unless you're playing with other EC2 / KAT100 enclosures? -- Nosey Nick Waterman, G7RZQ, Senior Sysadmin. #include stddisclaimer[EMAIL PROTECTED] If you think before you speak the other guy gets his joke in first. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K1 tuning range ideas/questions
Hi I did this on one of the K1's I built a while back. To change from 150 kHz to 80 KHz you change a capacitor from 120 pf (I think) to 82 pf. If you want 100 KHz then use 100 pf. Use a NPO type cap or you may get too much frequency drift. I looked for 20 turn pots also but all of the pots I found are too big to fit on the front panel and cost $50 to $100. However there is a metal shaft version of the pot used in the K1 that has a better feel and is more rugged and only cost $13 from Mouser. I have installed this pot on the five K1's I have built for people. Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: David Toepfer [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2005 5:56 PM Subject: [Elecraft] K1 tuning range ideas/questions I know the K1 comes with a standard tuning range choice of 2 (80k or 150k). But I was wondering if it were possible to do something like 100k. I ask because there is almost a concensus that the 150k tuning range is too fast, so I would like to avoid this. But I would also like access to 3.575-3.585, which seems beyond the 80k tuning range choice. I suppose I could just choose 150k and buy a 20-turn pot and have the best of both worlds. And if this were the case, I wonder if I could make a 250k tuning range with a 30-turn pot. Help/Feedback? David, K3TUE ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Switching Power Supply in EC 2
Hi Although I never got around to it, I did some measurements and the power supply will fit into the EC2 if you remove the rubber feet on the bottom of the power supply. I guess you could also remove all of the electronics and fan from the case and install it all into the EC2 and have even more room but that should nor be required. All that is needed is to cut out the back of the EC2 to fit the power supply and drill come holes in the bottom of the EC2 for air flow. There is even enough room for a K2 type battery that could be float charged from the power supply and or a solar panel with controller. This would give you a back up supply in case of a power failure to run at QRP levels. A while back someone on the list posted some pictures of the set up with the power supply in the EC2 so it has been done. Don Brown KS5NDB - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2005 10:54 AM Subject: [Elecraft] Switching Power Supply in EC 2 Don Brown KD5NDB posted (2002) an interesting proposal to install a MFJ-4125 power supply into an EC-2 Case. Has any one attempted this project? KI4DGH Chuck G. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K1 tuning range ideas/questions
Hi The metal shaft pot part number for the K1 is 652-3540S-1-104 from Mouser Electronics. The last time I ordered some they were about $13 plus shipping. When mounting do not use the plastic washer that came with the K1 pot. Use a nut then the star washer then the panel followed by the flat washer and nut. adjust the back nut so only one or two threads are showing on the top nut. This moves the pot shaft and VFO knob back closer to the panel. I think this looks better with the knob close to the panel. Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: Bart W0IIT [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Don Brown [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2005 9:59 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 tuning range ideas/questions Don, Would you know the part number for the metal shafted pot you have used? I have my K1 tore down to put the backlight mod in---perfect time to change out the pot!! tia es 72, Bart ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
