[Elecraft] Clock accuracy and JT-65
As I understand it, JT65 requires a highly accurate clock, accurate to less than a second. However, unless the KX3 is capable of encoding/decoding JT65, that accuracy is required in the computer doing the encoding/decoding, not the radio. Sure, it would be nice if the KX3 clock were more accurate, but I can't see what practical use that feature would have, other than preventing you from jumping the gun at Field Day. And setting the clock the night before Field Day would solve that problem. 73, John AA0VE __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Test serial-to-USB converter
Jan, In the "good old days", you could check a serial port by connecting pin 2 to pin3 at the end of the serial cable. Set the port to software handshaking (or else connect the control pins together in a similar manner-I don't recall the pin numbers). Then run a dumb terminal program. What you type will be echoed to your screen, even with "echo" turned off. If echo is turned on, you'd see what you typed twice. That would prove the signal made it out and back and the interface works. The baudrate doesn't matter, as long as it's the same for transmitting and receiving. 73, John AA0VE Jan, The best way to test a USB to serial converter is by substitution with a known good one, or by substitution of a known good working serial device connected to the questionable converter cable. Yes, a power surge or a lightning event can damage serial interfaces as well as USB interfaces. Since your USB ports on the computer seem to work, borrow a known good USB to serial converter and try it out - preferably one with an FTDI chipset. If you have any other devices that use a serial COM port interface, see if they work with your USB to serial adapter - if so, the adapter is probably OK, but remember that in the event of a power surge, multiple failures are possible even though in normal troubleshooting we assume only a single failure. You can test the USB to serial converter with a 'scope and an RS-232 breakout box, but you have to know the proper RS-232 levels to understand what is happening. A null modem loopback cable can be helpful if you have to proper driving software application for that testing. I did that during my years of PC modem testing, but that was more than 30 years ago and the software ran under DOS - not helpful now. 73, Don W3FPR __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX3 VSWR problem (WD4SDC)
Steve: Is it possible your dummy load is not 50 ohms at 6M? In other words, is your dummy load designed to work at VHF frequencies? Maybe it's only designed for HF frequencies. Just a thought, but it could possibly explain your problem. 73, John AA0VE Jim Rodenkirch wrote I'm not sure I understand..are you saying with the ATU removed the VSWR is 1.2:1 and with it installed but not tuned it's 1.8:1 until the ATU "kicks in and does its job??? Hi Jim, Sorry for the confusion. I'll pull everything into this post to put it in the correct context: Problem: 6M band -> VSWR 1.8:1 (KX3 meter) on 50ohm load connected directly to ant connector (no cable). ATU - bypass mode Load verified good. All other bands good. ATU will match to 1:1 if enabled and tune requested. After ATU match, 25ohm load yields 2:1 (KX3 VSWR meter test - OK). So the issue was that the ATU in bypass mode on 6M into good load gives a 1.8:1 VSWR. Working with Elecraft support, I removed the ATU board to check VSWR w/o the ATU in the line. That checked good 1.2:1. The ATU in bypass mode on 6M does not quite function as a 50 ohm transmission line. For my particular unit, it was higher than expected. 1.4:1 is considered OK. If the ATU is enabled and tune is engaged, it has no problem matching the output stage to the load and delivering rated power. So, operationally not really an issue. Just leave the ATU enabled and tuned. The reason for going into bypass mode was to perform a TX gain cal procedure, which specifies the ATU must be set to bypass. I used the KX3 utility to do this and it sets the ATU to bypass and steps thru each band. When it got to 6M, it failed - probably because the foldback circuit was kicking in @ 1.8:1 and/or the output stage can't deliver the 6 watts need to complete the cal into that mismatch. Doing the cal manually with the ATU on and matched for 6M band works fine. Hopefully, this provides a more useful note for anyone else that may have a similar issue. Trying to contribute back to the list - as I have learned a lot using this resource. Steve WD4SDC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Mic Preamp for K2
Many years ago, I decided to build the mic preamp that was posted somewhere on the Elecraft website by Mike N0MF. I believe it is still there. It boosts the signal from a Heil Proset dynamic element up to a level sufficient to drive the K2/VOX. Since that time, I believe Heil has produced a special element that does away with the requirement for this preamp. Nonetheless, I built one and even designed a simple PCB to hold the 8 parts. The board was so small that I made a couple while I was at it. Not having any need for two of these preamps, I've had the 2nd board sitting around, gathering dust all these years. I could just throw it away (it's unpopulated), but before I do that, I'm offering it (board only) to anyone who wants it, free (tis the season). It does not come with any parts, but an enlarged picture of the PCB will be included with it, showing the parts placement. The board is small enough to easily fit inside an old 35mm film can (remember those?). I'll gladly send photos of the board and the finished product to anyone interested in seeing how it looks. I'm NOT giving away the one I built, just the spare unpopulated board, of which I have only one (1). That being said, the first person to request this board gets it (no foreign addresses). If nobody requests it, I'll go with plan A and pitch it. Please reply to me, rather than the list, to cut down on list traffic and to make sure I receive it, as I only get the digest version of the list these days. and don't always read it end to end. Thanks and 73, John AA0VE __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Anderson PowerPoles
I refuse to get into the plus/minus arguments about Powerpoles, but I do have a warning about a particular product I bought a few years ago. It is a plastic frame designed to hold a bank of powerpoles, which I installed on a little battery pack/charger storage case I built. It contains 4 pairs of powerpoles in the following configuration (B = black, R = red): R B R B R B R B It allows one to plug in 4 different powerpole accessories at once. Unfortunately, it turns out that it is possible to get the polarity wrong when using this bank of powerpoles. While groping around one Field Day, trying to plug in a K2 without adequate light to see what I was doing, I accidentally plugged it into the center two connectors, thus getting the polarity wrong (B R instead of R B). Fortunately, being a K2, there is a trusty little reverse polarity protection diode which prevents any damage from occurring. After correcting the mistake, the K2 came to life. I know the battery voltage indication on the K2 is low because of this diode, but that's a small price to pay for this Murphy-proofing feature. Thanks, Elecraft. 73's, John AA0VE __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] (spectrogram) K2 crystal filter question
LS: As a test, I just installed spectrogram 16 on my Sun VirtualBox virtual Windows XP machine (Ubuntu). It installed with no problems and seems to run. I didn't take the time to insert an audio input to the sound card, but I suspect that should work as well. Haven't tried VMware. lstavenhagen wrote: Will Spectrogram work in a Windows VM (i.e. through VMWare)? If so might be nice to tweak the filter settings for CW anyway... Tnx es 73, LS W5QD __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 - Isolation box construction for digital
My metal isolation box shares ground with the computer. That way I can use normal audio jacks and cables. On the other side, I use a DB9 connector to isolate the box from any wires going to the radio. My PTT connection is isolated via an optoisolator (4N33), requiring another DB9 to the computer serial port for control. If you isolate the audio signals but not PTT, then you've again un-isolated everything. If you use VOX for PTT, this isn't an issue. 73's, John AA0VE Tim N9PUZ wrote: I would buy a) isolated jacks, b) mount regular jacks in plastic to isolate them, or c) use an all plastic box to isolate them. That was you don't have to remember to use a specially wired cable to preserve the isolation. Tim, N9PUZ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] COAX for audio cables ???
Bob: If you go to www.cablesondemand.com, they have all kinds of Amphenol cables for sale. I've only ordered from them once (absolutely no affiliation), but the cables I bought seemed very high quality and reasonably priced. They have all kinds of cable, not just audio, but coax and computer cables as well. 73's, John AA0VE Bob - W0GI wrote: I will need to make some audio cables for the new K3 for the LP-PAN to the audio box, and also to the other soundcard. I think I read somewhere in one of the K3 manuals that it is best to use small coax, as it has better shielding. Makes sense to me, and LMR100 seems to fit the bill, but at $0.64 per foot, I wonder what else is available? Not cheesy RS audio cable, but decent coax? Considering the length involved, the LMR100 isn't going to break the bank. :) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 xmit problem
Mike: This is a shot in the dark (I don't even own a K3). Did you tune the rig when you installed the dummy load? If it is like the K2 (and I think it is in this regard), the antenna tuner stays at the settings it last made for whatever load was placed on the antenna input. Putting a dummy load on it doesn't guarantee the SWR is 1:1. You need to tune the rig for the dummy load. Then it should be close to 1:1 if all is working properly. The fact that it seems to work fine with antenna 2 aroused my suspicion that this is the only problem you are facing. 73's and good luck, John AA0VE Mike wrote: K3/100 #3539 with KAT3, KXV3, KTCX01-1, 2.8, 400, 250 filters. MCU 3.57, FPF 1.06, DSP1 2.45. Transmitting into a dummy load, with nothing else in line, Antenna 1 shows an SWR of 7.1-1 on 20 meters. On 10 meters, SWR is 1.1-1 and I have a HI CUR flag. On all the other bands SWR is OK. SWR on antenna 2 is OK on all bands. What should I be looking at to fix this? Thanks, Mike NF4L __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Cables
Phil: I've bought cables with Amphenol connectors from www.cablesondemand.com and have been very happy with them. Besides high quality RCA cables, they sell 6 pin mini-din cables (all 6 pins connected) and 50 ohm BNC or SMA or N-terminated coax. I can't say the RCA audio cables are 100% shielded, but I wouldn't be surprised. You can email them and ask. When I had a question, they sent me an entire data sheet on some mini-din cables I bought. No relation to the company other than being a satisfied customer. 73's, John AA0VE Phil LaMarche wrote: Is there anywhere to purchase RCA cables with 100% shield? __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Toroid stripping/tinning
This reminds me of a slick solution to the toroid stripping and tinning problem I saw on another reflector (I think). Get an old soldering iron (I used a wood-burning iron) and drill a small blind hole in the tip to make a mini solder pot. When you are ready to strip the toroid leads, get the iron hot, melt some solder into the hole until it is full, then dip the leads into the hole, one at a time. After a few seconds of bubbling, the lead comes out professionally stripped and tinned. I wish I knew this trick when I was building my K2 many years ago. That was the only part about winding toroids I didn't like and felt unsure about. 73's, John AA0VE Don Wilhelm wrote: Check that toroid carefully for poorly tinned and soldered leads. If you can see any enamel on the solder side of the board, that is a sure sign that the lead was not wellstripped and tinned. Removal and re-tinning is the only cure. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 - computer communications
Phil: The easiest way to check things out is by substitution. First try a different computer, preferably one with a built-in serial port. Do you have a spare one that wasn't affected by the event? If not,do you have a friend with a laptop (and a USB-serial adapter) who wouldn't mind having Logic 8 installed temporarily as a test? Do you have another radio (not necessarily a K-3) that you can check with your current computer? It seems to me it might be possible to substitute all 3 components (radio, computer, USB-serial adapter) one at a time and come up with the answer. If Logic 8 worked with no problems before, I doubt the software is the issue, but you could also try different logging software as well. Hope this helps. John AA0VE Phil and Christina wrote: I use Logic 8 as a logging program, and it has communicated fine over a serial port with my K3 (s/n 1826). Today a windstorm dropped a tree across a power line, and the power surged on and off several times before going off completely. The computer is a Dell laptop in a docking station. The computer is powered through a UPS. My K3 is powered by a stout Astron RS-35M linear supply (that is not on the UPS). I don't know if there is a causal agent at work, but now I have communications issues. If I turn the radio on and launch Logic 8, the computer and radio seem to communicate OK at first. Then after maybe 5 to 10 minutes, the computer puts up a message that the link has been lost and the communications stops (no frequency updating, etc.). If I close and reopen Logic 8, they communicate for a bit before the message comes back. Any suggestions? Thank you. 73, Phil, NS7P __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Update on Micro M+ solar charge controller
Gary: I built one of those M+ controllers many years ago. For Field Day this year, I had two 5 Watt solar panels hooked up in parallel going to it and then to a 5 AH gel cell. After about 6 hours of operating (search and pounce) with my K2 at 5 Watts, the micro M+ was cycling, indicating the battery was still fully charged. That was in full sunlight, only a few days from the summer solstice. Depending on how portable you want to be and how much operating you intend to do, I would suggest a panel in the 5-10 Watt category might work well for you. The controller itself can handle larger panels (higher current), but you don't want more than about an Amp going into a 7 AH gel cell, to keep from damaging it. Also, naturally, larger panels (current-wise) tend to be less portable. 73's, John AA0VE Gary W. Marklund wrote: I've just ordered a M+. I'm using a 7AH 12v gel cell. I would appreciate some suggestions for appropriate solar panels for this application. TNX and 73, Gary KJ7RT __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Kx-1. Dc power connector size
Russ: It uses a 5.5 x 2.1 mm power connector. I don't have a KX-1, but I downloaded the manual at one point in time. This morning I checked the parts list and I see the size of the connector isn't listed. However, the part number is E620032, which is the same part number as the connector on my K2. The K2 manual specifically lists the connector as a 5.5 x 2.1 mm size, so there's your answer. 73's, John AA0VE Garrett, Russ wrote: Anyone know the size of the dc power connector (male) end that fits into J1? I need to construct a dc power cable (with a fuse) to connect to a 13.7v battery. I have searched the manual with no luck. Any assistance would be appreciate on the parts/construction of that piece. 73 Russ Kd7mpk __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Upgrade question
Jim: I don't think that should be a problem. The crystal has only 2 leads, so if you can pull it a little while heating up one of the leads, the end you are heating will break loose. Do the same with the other lead and it should come out painlessly. Then clean up the holes in the PCB. You probably won't even damage the old crystals. If you want to remove a component with more than 2 leads, then it gets trickier because the multiple leads that aren't being heated are enough to hold the component in place. That's when it's usually best to destroy the component and remove the leads one at a time. Not so with a crystal (or other 2 lead components). Good luck and 73's, John AA0VE Jim Giercyk wrote: Thanks guys! I purchased all of the updates from A to B. It looks like there are some substantial improvements, and I can't wait to get it up and running again to hear what the new and improved rig sounds like. I also bought a new set of XTALs, but I am dreading taking the old ones out. Any tips on removing them without damaging the board? Since they are up against the board it's impossible to cut the leads, and since the xtal basically acts as a heat sink, I'm thinking it would take a lot of heat to get it out. Thanks again, Jim N2SUB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT Slightly: PC Board Recovery -Plated Through Holes
Lee: Besides using solder wick (available at Radio Shack, I think), you can use a needle to clear out the hole. Solder doesn't seem to stick to needles very well. Just heat the needle near the point while trying to push it into the hole. Usually works like a charm. 73's, John AA0VE Lee Buller wrote: I was putting together a kit this evening (non Elecraft) and discovered I was using the wrong instruction sheet version to the parts and board I was using. (Always check your parts before beginning - which I did not) I had to putt about 10 resistors of the board. They are plated through holes. I did not have a vacuum desoldering station...so I have to think of somethingto get the solder out of the holes. A small drill? Anyone has some comments? Lee Buller - K0WA Embarrased to say the least ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Walwart power?
Hey, everyone: While using a wall-wart directly is probably not a good idea, you might want to see what Terry (WA0ITP) did to solve the problem. Essentially, he epoxied an LM7812 and heatsink to the back of a wall-wart, added a couple of capacitors, and checked the output for any ripple. Finding none, he dubbed it the Motel Power Supply and is good to go for QRP operation from a motel. But you can go to his website (below) and read for yourself. He has quite a few good ideas on that website. http://www.wa0dx.org/wa0itp/mps.html Happy holidays to all! 73's, John AA0VE michael taylor wrote: On Tue, Dec 23, 2008 at 5:43 PM, Burke Jones tacg...@gmail.com wrote: Could I use a 12V 500ma to power my KX1 when at home? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Please put the rig name in subject line
I agree about putting the radio in the subject line, but there's at least one gotcha. I've had my email program put all email with K3 in the subject line into a separate folder for quite a while. I was mildly surprised when I found a few emails in that folder that referred to the K2. They were talking about implementing PSK31 with the K2. Of course, K3 is smack dab in the middle of PSK31. John AA0VE Tom McCulloch wrote: Yes, yes, yes...Please put K1, K2, K3 etc. in subject line!...Thanks Tom, wb2qdg K2 1103 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2: Accidentally reversed RP2 - OK?
Kristinn: Looks like the resistor gods were with you this time. If you look at the schematic for the KSB2, you'll see (upper right corner) that RP2 is 4 separate resistors with no pins in common (1-2, 3-4, 5-6, 7-8), so you can keep RP2 installed reversed. The same is true for RP1. HOWEVER, RP5, for example, has a common pin (pin 1), so if you had reversed RP5, you would have had to desolder it and install it correctly. Good luck with the rest of the installation, but watch out for those polarizing markings! They are usually there for a reason. 73's, John AA0VE TF3KX wrote: I was staying up a bit too late last night, assembling my KSB2, and accidentally installed the 2.7K resistor network RP2 reversed (pin1 is where pin 8 should be, etc.). Now, if RP2 simply consists of four equal and individual resistors (pins 1-2, 3-4, 5-6, 7-8) I would believe this does not matter. Furthermore, the symmetry of this part of the KSB2 circuit would also support this. I don't like taking up the soldering iron and desoldering pump to fix something that does not need messing with. So, it would be reassuring to hear if any one seconds my conclusion to leave RP2 as is... 73 - Kristinn, TF3KX ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] CW rise time mod topic
Hi everyone: I have Thunderbird check for the magic characters K3 in the subject. When they are found, those emails are put into a separate folder. Not owning a K3, that makes it easier for me to quickly scan through topics that probably aren't of interest to me. Some folks don't bother to put K3 in the subject, although the topic refers to some aspect of that radio. That's OK. I'm not complaining about that. However, when people start talking about radio mods, it seems imperative to me that they mention somewhere, preferably in the subject line, which radio they are referring to. In this case, there are CW mods for both the K2 and K3 (and probably K1 and KX1 as well). This was not meant to be a criticism. It's just a suggestion to possibly prevent unnecessary confusion. 73's, John AA0VE ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Solar power for the K2
Andrew: This is exactly what we do at Field Day every year. We search and pounce, so our transmit duty cycle is relatively low, but after operating all afternoon, the 7 Ahr battery used with the QRP K2 is almost fully charged (assuming sunny weather, of course). We use two 5 Watt solar panels in parallel, each costing less than $40, hooked up to an inexpensive gelcell charger, to keep the battery from overcharging (probably not necessary with these solar panels). 73's, John AA0VE Paul wrote: Andrew, When reading the other posts and seeing those large Solar Panel wattages, I think they are using a K2 but with the 100W option. I can't imagine needing a 33W solar panel to power the base K2 model. On a nice day, I guessing you could hook up a 7 Ahr gel cell and have it charged with a 5-10 Watt panel and work for a long time. The battery supplies the TX power when you need it and during the RX cycle the Solar Panel is catching it for power used. You might try posting your question on the Yahoo QRPSolarPower newsgroup. 73, Paul ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Solar power for the K2
Brian: We have plenty of gel cells for Field Day, and, as you noted, don't really need to use the solar panels at all. However, we get 100 bonus points when we make QSOs using a battery charged via solar energy. You can't forget bonus points! 73's, John AA0VE Brian Alsop wrote: It seems like it would be cheaper and easier to do away with the solar panels and charger. Use the money to buy a few more batteries. Charge them before FD and you're good to go. Think about this. It may even rain on FD! The solar panels would only be good as an ad hoc umbrella or tent during the rain. 73 de Brian/K3KO John R. Lonigro wrote: Andrew: This is exactly what we do at Field Day every year. We search and pounce, so our transmit duty cycle is relatively low, but after operating all afternoon, the 7 Ahr battery used with the QRP K2 is almost fully charged (assuming sunny weather, of course). We use two 5 Watt solar panels in parallel, each costing less than $40, hooked up to an inexpensive gelcell charger, to keep the battery from overcharging (probably not necessary with these solar panels). 73's, John AA0VE Paul wrote: Andrew, When reading the other posts and seeing those large Solar Panel wattages, I think they are using a K2 but with the 100W option. I can't imagine needing a 33W solar panel to power the base K2 model. On a nice day, I guessing you could hook up a 7 Ahr gel cell and have it charged with a 5-10 Watt panel and work for a long time. The battery supplies the TX power when you need it and during the RX cycle the Solar Panel is catching it for power used. You might try posting your question on the Yahoo QRPSolarPower newsgroup. 73, Paul ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K1 toroid winding
Bud: Here's a little tip (I'll leave the poetry to Wayne): The first winding tends to be the loosest, so wind N + 1 turns and then remove the first one, ending up with the correct number. But make sure you double check the number of turns. Being off by only 1 turn may not sound bad, but in many cases it represents a big increase in inductance, possibly over 10%. As others have said, just count the number of times the wire passes through the center of the toroid. I've easily wound well over 100 toroids in the past few years and have never had a problem with winding them. Be especially careful stripping the wire before soldering it into the circuit. You can search the archives for various techniques. One thing I do in that regard is insert the part BEFORE stripping the wire, to check for proper fit. Then I trim it, leaving maybe 1/8 extra on each lead. Finally I remove it and concentrate on stripping the wire where I know it's going to be contacting the solder pad. If you don't trim it first, you'll end up spending lots of time stripping parts of the wire that will either be snipped off after soldering or will be nowhere near the solder pad. 73's and good luck, John AA0VE [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I just ordered a K1 four band transceiver. I am worried about the torroids should I be? Bud ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Separate list for K3
My solution is to filter out any email with K3 in the title. It all goes to a separate folder. The same goes for email with elecraft in the title. As a result, I have 3 in folders. The third has most of my non-radio communications in it. That is the folder I check daily. I also try to keep any responses short and infrequent. I use Thunderbird, but I assume other email programs have similar provisions. 73's, John AA0VE G4ILO wrote: Marteinn Sverrisson wrote: Hi If you feel that the list is out of hands, then do as I did long ago, unsubscribe and just read the MARC list archives, subjects are neatly sorted and grouped. No clogging of your Mail inbox. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Microphones for K2/3
John and Charles: The Heil Prosets with the HC-4 or HC-5 elements don't have quite enough output to drive the K2 without either an external preamp or tweaking of the K2's internal circuitry. The version with the electret element seems to work better with the K2. I believe the Heil K2 Proset is essentially the version with the electret element, but I'm not 100% certain on that matter. All Prosets require an adapter to match your particular mic jack configuration, so that is not a factor. No idea about the K3. 73's, John AA0VE Charles Harpole wrote: I see that now Elecraft is offering sale of a Heil K2 Pro Set mic/headphone unit, saying it is optimized for K2. I assume that also means K3. Charles brings up a good point. What is it that makes any microphone optimized for any radio. Pin outs are obvious of course. - Impedance? - Bandwidth? - Signal Strength? John ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Spectrogram for Linux
Gary: I've experimented with baudline (www.baudline.com) and it seems to work pretty well. 73's, John AA0VE Gary Montalbine wrote: Is there an equivalent of spectrogram for use in Linux? I found xoscope. However it does not seem to be supported. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] BNC To Twin Lug Adapter
Chris: If I understand what you mean by twin lug, Jameco has it (www.jameco.com, part number 99354) for a little more than $5.00 plus shipping. This item has a BNC male on one end and twin banana jacks/binding posts on the other. 73's, John AA0VE Does anyone know a source where I can obtain one of those BNC to twin lug adapters for the KX1? I am thinking of puuting up a G5RV fed with 300 ohm ladder line. Thanks and very 73/72! Chris NV9Z Hagerstown IN www.eciqrp.org ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 options KDSP2 KAF2
Scott: I suggest you return or sell the KAF2. You can install EITHER the KAF2 OR the KDSP2, but not both. They both go in the same spot. I don't have the KDSP2, so I can't compare the two, but I believe most people agree it is superior to the KAF2, although the KAF2 works pretty well if you are operating mainly CW. 73's, John AA0VE Scott McDowell wrote: Hi I just received the KAF2 and the KDSP2 options for my K2 from the xyl as birthday presents (73rd). I notice that both options have the real time clock. My question is what does the KAF2 option do that the KDSP2 option doesn't do? Or, is there any reason to have both installed ? Thanks Scott N5SM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 microphone wiring for TenTec 705
Mike: If it's an electret mic, it requires power. Assuming the power is coming from the K2, then it needs the resistor. The 1201 mic kit doesn't come with a connector (I just checked), so you are free to wire it any way you want, after you buy the proper connector. Just make sure the K2 is configured the same way you decide to wire the mic. If the K2 is your only radio and the 1201 is your only mic, any random configuration would work, but it makes a lot more sense to wire both to some standard, usually ICOM or Kenwood. 73's, John AA0VE Mike Geddes wrote: Greetings Elecrafters. I have ordered a TenTec Model 1201 microphone kit for SSB use with my K2. It is an electret mike, and is their kit version of the 705 desk mike. I liked the looks of it and understand these mikes work pretty well with the K2. My questions: Does it connect to P1 using the ICOM configuration? Does it require the resistor? 73, Mike N4JX ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 SSB menu question...
Steve: PTT is the same as the dit line for CW, so that works because all you are doing is closing the dit line with your mic PTT switch. John AA0VE [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: This morning I connected a Heil - Elecraft MH2 mic after installing all 8 RF board header pins and the requisite 5.6K resistor on Pins 1-6 of the K2 mic jack and was surprised to discover that the PTT function works fine, but there seems to be no way to turn on any SSBa or SSBc menu choices. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Antenna Analyzer
Tom: I've got an MFJ-259 (not the -B model). It has performed pretty well over the years, not perfect, but it always seems to work for me. You can get by a lot cheaper with an absorptive SWR bridge and your QRP radio. Go to www.ad5x.com (Phil Salas' website) for some suggestions (tenna-tune and tenna-tune2) on how to build one. Or go to www.qrpkits.com (Doug Hendricks' site) for a kit that is similar. Someone else suggested www.4sqrp.com (4 states qrp group) for another solution. None of these are as fancy as the MFJ, but if all you want to do is adjust an antenna after assembling it, they will probably all work fairly well for you. I have no financial interest in any of these products, but I've used some of Phil's ideas and have purchased kits from Doug and the Four States group and have been well satisfied in each case. 73's, John AA0VE KJ3D wrote: Hello Group, I purchased a 17 m add-on to a Hustler 6-BTV vertical and the instructions recommended I use an antenna analyzer to tune it up. Anyway, I have enormous respect for the brain trust available on this reflector and it seems like I know some of you - unlike the more-or-less disembodied reviews on eHam. Any thouhts about the 259B? Any other suggestions? - 300 bucks is ALOT more than I would like to spend, so please don't suggest any of the AEA jobs - I would have to get a second job. Thanks in advance, es 73 Tom, kj3d ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Question from a newbie
While it is true these trucks were probably diesels and therefore there was no IGNITION noise, it is certainly still possible for them to have produced electrical noise. If nothing else, they have alternators. I'm sure we've all heard alternator noise and I suspect the alternators on these trucks are heavy duty, capable of producing heavy duty noise. I'm not up to speed on modern diesel engine technologies, but the fuel pump and fuel injectors might also be electrical these days, not mechanical, as in days of yore (35 years ago when I was a diesel mechanic in the army). 73's, John AA0VE Ken Kopp wrote: The 4 concrete trucks and two large pickups were almost certain to have had diesel engines and therefore would have had minimal ... if any ... electrical noise to be heard. Even the motors operating the concrete-handling mechanisms would have been hudraulic. Not a good test for a noise blanker/eleminator. (;-) 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Coil winding novice
Nick: One problem I had winding coils was the first turn always was looser than the rest. So I would intentionally wind an additional turn and then remove the first turn. Just make sure you end up with the correct number of turns. Also, after the coil is wound, before I try to strip the insulation from the ends, I do a fit check and trim the wires so they are only perhaps 1/8 longer than need be. I then remove the coil and know exactly where I need to remove the insulation. If you don't do that, you will end up spending lots of time stripping insulation from parts of the wire you are going to trim off anyway. Once you think you've stripped off the insulation, do a resistance check before installing the coil. After you install it, other components in the circuit might lead you to believe all is well when it isn't. Good luck. If you are careful, you should have no problems. 73's, John AA0VE Nick Henwood wrote: I am just starting on my K2 and feeling apprehensive about coil winding - never having wound a toroidal coil.My inclination is to wind them myself rather than give way and buy a set. It all looks straightforward in the instruction manual. Would welcome encouragement or cautionary advice. 73 Nick G3RWF ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] spurious signals problem solved
Terry: Better the UPS than the K2. It did its job of protecting what was plugged into it. Remember, the gel-cell inside can be removed and used as a great power supply for any of your QRP rigs. I don't think I've run my K2 on anything but gel-cells so far. If you are lucky, maybe you can also salvage the charging circuit for the battery. 73's, John AA0VE Terry Wilkinson wrote: Hi everyone: Thanks for the replies to my post regarding spurious signals. Just discovered the problem: I have an uninterruptible power supply, so I tried plugging my K2's power supply directly into a wall plug, then unplugged the UPS, and the hash went away. Looks like my UPS got fried. Time for a new one. Regards to all, Terry W1BPJ K2 #5944 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Heil Proset Ic with K2
I just went to the Heil website and verified the ProSet-Ic has an electret mic. That means you need to do what Don W3FPR suggested. (When in doubt, do what Don suggests! You'll seldom go wrong.) 73's, John AA0VE Soaring Eagles wrote: One more quick question: I've got the Heil ProSet-Ic with the Icom (blue) adapter from Heil. However, I'm not sure if I need to connect the K2 mic connector pin 2 to the 5V line. In other words, I'm still confused whether this microphone/headset has the preamp in the mike or not. Thanks a lot for your help. Otherwise, I think that's the last question I should have about the KSB2 and the K60XV is ready to put in, but I think I've got that covered! #5757 is getting nearly fully populated! ...you simply wire your K2 mic configuration header for the Icom pinout and attach a resistor (5600 ohms is good) from the AF pin to the 5 volt pin on the mic jack - the best location for the resistor is on the back of the mic jack, not the header just because it is easier mechanically. If indeed your adapter is Icom, the resistor goes between pins 1 and 2 on the mic jack. 73, Don W3FPR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Quiet cooling
Tom: I have only the QRP K2 and have no experience with KPA100 fan noise. But my recommendation to you is to first build the thing stock before you start thinking about modifying it. In other words, don't try to solve a problem that might not be a problem to start with. If you build it stock and are happy with it, you've saved yourself some extra work. And remember the silent majority: those who are totally happy with their fan. I'm sure there are at least a thousand KPA100's out there and we've heard complaints from maybe 20 people. 73's, John AA0VE Tom Zeltwanger wrote: I am getting ready to build my KPA100 and am a bit concerned about the fan noise, after hearing recent comments here. There are many fans out there for PCs, and some of the newer ones are fairly quiet. Isn't there a specific alternative cheap fan that can be used, if the stock one is so noisy? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Component Body Colours
I too am colorblind (red-green) and have always had trouble reading resistor values. In the good old days, reading the colors was difficult, but the XYL (or my mother when I was younger) was usually around to help. They would tell me a 33K resistor was brown, orange, brown, orange, brown, orange, brown, silver (hi). Nowadays, I can't ask the XYL anymore because, while she can still see colors perfectly, her visual acuity has gotten worse, as has mine. They may have large print books, but I haven't seen many large print resistors these days (1/2 -2 Watt). I too thank Elecraft for presorting the resistors. It saved me lots of time and possibly a mistake or two. John AA0VE Fred Jensen wrote: Ever considered that you might be colorblind? :-) Just kidding, but I am a monochromie, although I didn't really know it until I got to college. I'd figured out I was having a hard time distinguishing the color bands on the big molded caps and carbon resistors when I was a teenage ham [they were much bigger then], but everyone (and I) just put it off to bad light. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KIO2 Problem
Lynn: This sounds to me like the classic bad solder connection: sometimes it works perfectly and sometimes it doesn't work at all. If you can tune in the oscillator when the interface isn't working, you might concentrate your inspection from J1 to U1 and J2. Also, your tests indicate the K2 can send data, but is not receiving it. That narrows your search even more. Look at the schematic. Follow the signal from J1(pin 3) to U1(pins 6 and 11) and finally to J2(pin 3). But the board is so small that I'd double check all the connections, including the RS232 cable, just to make sure. Hope this helped. 73's, John AA0VE [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have a K2/100 with KAT100. The antenna tuner is working fine when I first tried Ham Radio Deluxe, it did not work. Then a couple of days later, unexpectedly, it started working. Well, it worked a couple of weeks just fine, and now, it has quit working. When I run HRD, I get an error message that says something to the effect of unable to obtain frequency. 3. Ck'd for the oscillator on 16293 kHz found it. Verified with separate shortwave rcvr noted that signal goes away when K2 is turned off. 4. Connected using Hyperterminal switched to Port on menu...when I pressed Display...I read FA3922180 on Hyperterminal. However, when I typed 'SW01;' the K2 did not respond. Hmmm.is it time to pull the cover off start troubleshooting internally??? Suggestions? Tnx 73 de K5AVJ Lynn (K2#1411) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Help in hooking up my straight Key
Paul: Ditto on the IC-706. Use a stereo plug - shell and tip. Put it in CW mode first(important) and enter Q4 menu (press and hold disp). Select CW Paddle OFF. You can use other Q menus to change pitch and break-in delay. 73's, John AA0VE Don Wilhelm wrote: Paul, I can answer with certainty on the K1 and KX1: Yes, you must use a stereo plug - but you need only to connect to the shell and the tip. Enter the menu in the K1 and KX1 and set INP Hnd. That is all there is to it. I do not have access to the '706 manual, but you can check your manual to see how to connect the key. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Paul Gates, KD3JF Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2006 9:31 AM To: Icom Icom Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Elecraft] Help in hooking up my straight Key I am on my way to the District Wash. DC to see the model train display at Union Station before they take it down and when I get back I want to be ready for SKN this evening. I have my key ready to go i thought but can't figure how to configure the plug into the radio Icom 706, Elecraft K1, KX1. I would like to use the 706 to begin with. I figure I must use a stereo plug. I figure in using a 2 wire cable from my straight key into the stero plug that one of the contacts in the plug is not used?? Any way I tried a mono plug into the 706 and could not get it to work. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Sidetone volume
Bob: One solution might be to set one of your programmable function keys to be sidetone level. At least that would eliminate the problem of going through the menu each time you needed to change it. 73's, John AA0VE Bob Tellefsen wrote: Hi Sverre The problem with the in-line volume control is that it will reduce the desired signal also. What is really requested here is a way to reduce the sidetone level when using headphones, but leaving it relatively loud when on speaker. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 CW Audio Note
Steve: I believe the problem is you can't just adjust the pitch of your sidetone on the K2. I realize it looks like just another menu item that you can tweak, but once you change the pitch, you have to go through filter alignment again, to position the passband in the right place. My guess is you adjusted the filters with the sidetone at 800 Hz and then tried to bring it down to 600 Hz. If that's what you did, you need to do the filter alignment again with your new sidetone. The raspy note should go away. 73's, John AA0VE [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I've noticed that the CW audio note (600hz) on my K2 has a raspy quality to it. It sounds much better is the pitch is set higher. I'm wondering if others have the same observation. 73, Steve K8IDN ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Raspy audio from K2 - conclusion
Well, despite not thinking I'd have time to correct my K2 raspy audio until after the holidays, I managed to squeeze in a little time early this morning and here's what I discovered: 1) There is probably nothing wrong with the K2 or the KSB2 board, as far as wiring is concerned. 2) Don (W3FPR) asked me a few questions, MOST of which I answered yes to. For example, my LSB and USB did sound similar (but raspy). The carrier was balanced well. The two things I DIDN'T do were adjusting the LSB and USB BF1 values for best transmitted signal quality. I guess those little check boxes next to the instructions are important after all (hi). The one remaining question I have is the following: The instructions for optimizing the BFOs say you can move the BFO as much as +/- 200 Hz from the frequencies in Table 3. Moving them about 100 Hz removed the raspiness, but I had to move them about 350 Hz total before I considered the signal optimum. Is this setting OK or should I back down to around 200 Hz? Thanks to all for the suggestions on this little problem and 73's, John AA0VE ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Heil mic adapter question
Cary: I have a Heil Proset which I've tried with my K2. I'm using the Kenwood adaptor, which is the right one IF you have configured your K2 for Kenwood mics. You just have to be consistent: If you configure the K2 header for Kenwood, you need to use the Kenwood adaptor. Several people have complained about some of the Heil mics not quite putting out enough audio for the K2, but that's a different issue and many opinions on that subject (and solutions) can be found in the reflector archives. I haven't used mine enough to decide one way or the other. I just got my SB filters more or less adjusted properly earlier today. Good luck and 73's, John AA0VE H.Cary III wrote: For Christmas, I will be getting a Heil Dual side Traveler head set and boom mic to use with K2. Heil doesn't list Elecraft on its website (strange considering all the good press from Elecraft for Heil!) to determine which adapter connector to use. I'm thinking it is likely the Kenwood 8-pin but that's just a guess since Kenwood hand mics work so well with this radio. Do any of you use a Heil mic/headset with a K2 and which adapter do you use? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Merry Christmas/Happy Holidays 73, Cary, K4TM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Raspy audio from K2
I recently finished building the KSB2 and did the alignment on the filters. Everything seems to be working as advertised, except on transmit my voice sounds raspy. I haven't had time to dig into the problem yet, but I did try 3 separate mics and got the same result. For my test, I transmitted at 1 Watt into a dummy load while listening on my Icom 706 with headphones. My first assumption is that I simply need to tweak the transmit filter, but I'm asking if anyone else has had the same symptom that was perhaps caused by something else. For example, is it possible the two radios are simply too close to each other for a good audio test? They are on separate supplies and were about 6 feet apart during the test. Thanks and 73's, John AA0VE K2#3401 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KBT2 charging question
Don et al: I've never tried this, but I've been wondering if any protection would be given the K2 if there were a reverse-biased diode running from the +13.8V input to ground. Put a 5 amp fuse in the positive line between the diode and the power socket and it should immediately blow if the diode senses a reverse hookup. With a correct hookup, the K2 would get the full voltage from the power supply. My guess is the K2 might still experience some damage before the fuse blew, but I'm not smart enough to know that for sure and I'm definitely NOT going to try it on mine! I haven't noticed any problems with the series diode. Just some food for discussion, but let's not have a food fight over it (hi). 73's, John AA0VE Don Wilhelm wrote: Fred, Not a design glitch IMHO - there is no way that Elecraft can redesign the float voltage for an SLA battery!! plus: I for one would not eliminate the series protective diode, so unless someone comes up with a protective diode with zero voltage drop, we just have to deal with those two parameters. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: Fw: [Elecraft] 50 vs 75 ohm N-connectors
Actually, that's the main reason Type N's are better for VHF/UHF. There's no impedance bump in the feedline at the joints. Not true for PL259's. 73's, John AA0VE Ken Kopp wrote: Jim's correct - There ARE differences between 75 and 50 ohm coax connectors ... especially Type N. 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP [EMAIL PROTECTED] or [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Looking for source for wire and fuses
Tom: I don't know about the fuses, but www.dcpwr.com has a good selection of zip-cord wire. They also sell powerpole parts. No affiliation, but I have placed an order with them and was very happy with their response. Obviously, you can get the fuses locally from any number of automotive supply houses. 73's, John AA0VE Tom McCulloch wrote: Hi gang, I'm looking for an online source for those automobile fuses which are used in the RigRunner power distributors. While I'm at it I'd like to order some zip-cord wire in various gauges and colors. Does anyone have a good online source for these? Thanks for your help, Tom WB2QDG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 is too good
While I agree the K2 is a great radio, just remember the other station may have been putting out a whole lot more than 10 Watts. Then it would make perfect sense for you to hear him, but not vice versa, even if his radio had as good a receiver. 73's, John AA0VE Ken Alexander wrote: I think we should have some special Almost QSL cards printed up. They would say: If you had been using a K2 as well, we would have QSOed on -Date-, -Time-, -Freq- etc. Your signal was RST 579 with my K2 connected to a wet noodle. Strange that you couldn't hear me... I may make some up myself! 73, Ken Alexander VE3HLS --- Ian Stirling [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I just called an N4 from New Jersey - that op was 519 in my stock FL4 filter setting, otherwise in the noise. I received a sri no copy. It could be that my ten Watts from my bare K2 wasn't sufficient - but that op heard me. What good is a superb K2 if the other guy isn't using one? ;) Ian, G4ICV, AB2GR, K2 4962 - ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] FOBB = BB #17
Karl: Do a Google search on Flight of the Bumblebees. You will find it points you to: www.arsqrp.com/ars/pages/bumblebees/bb_rules.html 73's, John AA0VE Karl Larsen wrote: Where can I learn about this contest Ron? Do you have a website? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] SMT project
Vic: While I was at Ozarkcon 2006 in April, I saw a demo of SMT soldering using a toaster oven. For a tutorial, go to www.qrpradio.com and click on projects and then SMT oven soldering. At Ozarkcon, Cecil (KD5NWA) soldered all the resistors onto the NORCAL QRP dummy load board (both sides) in one 5 minute operation. And he slowed down the process for the sake of the demo. You can also solder the resistors using a Hobby Lobby Embossing Gun, but he didn't demo that technique. The finished board looked like it had been done at the factory. Of course, if you want the joys of soldering each resistor in place, then you don't want to look into this process. Regardless, it is very interesting reading. I was highly impressed. The downside is once you use a toaster oven for soldering, you don't want to use it for cooking food anymore. The embossing gun might be a better (and cheaper) choice for occasional SMT soldering, but if you get it too close to the board, it could start blowing SMT parts all over. Now that could be fun. (No financial interest in Hobby Lobby.) 73's, John AA0VE michael taylor wrote: On 6/10/06, Vic K2VCO [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Can someone suggest a kit using SMT components that would be a good learning experience for someone wanting to learn SMT techniques? I would prefer something useful like test equipment rather than YACQR (Yet Another Cute QRP Radio) of which I have several! ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Building KX-2 SN 1482 Question
Larry: You can also buy a BNC - banana plug adapter from Jameco (no affiliation) for a few bucks. Take it off when not using it and you have a stock K2. 73's, John AA0VE Larry Wright wrote: The build is going well. My question is this: has anyone used alligator clip outputs in place of the BNC connector? What do you see as the pros and cons of using alligator clips? I have been using the SST and the L-tuner (which has alligator clip outputs) since last fall and so am accustomed to using alligator clips. I anticapate mostly using the KX-1 for camping, backpacking, and portable use with an endfed wire and counterpoise.. So instead of using the BNC and an adapter, I am considering contructing it with alligator clip outputs. It would appear to me to be easy to put the BNC connector in later if I decide the alligator clips are not a good choice. Removing the BNC looks like a difficult task if I later decide I don't like it. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] GROUNDING STRAP
Bill: You only NEED to use the wrist grounding strap when handling some ICs and some of the transistors. To be safe, I use it for all ICs and transistors, but especially the ones that are supplied in anti-static foam. Resistors, capacitors, and inductors are not sensitive to static and are easier to handle if you don't have one wrist on a leash. 73's and good luck, John AA0VE BILL COCHRAN wrote: Do I use the wrist grounding strap at all times when I building the kit at all times, or when I am handling the ICs? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Heil Proset question
Bill: There is a mic preamp schematic on the Elecraft website. Just go to Builders Resources, then KSB2 SSB Adaptor Notes, and finally look at Microphone Preamp. 73's, John AA0VE Bill Coleman wrote: I couldn't find a schematic for a pre-amp on this web site. (I found a bunch of other stuff, though) Could you cite the actual circuit you used? Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASEL ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] DST info on WWV and WWVH
I don't know if my previous post made it. If not, that's OK because there was an omission: I did a Google search on NIST 432 and got the NIST Special Pub 432 - Time and Frequency Services. It seems like WWVB bits 57 and 58 transmit the DST data (page 20). WWV and WWVH have DST data on bit 55 (page 47). I have an older edition of the same publication (which is why I knew the publication number) and it is interesting reading. 73's, John AA0VE [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Did WWV ever send any DST coding? I'll bet not. Setting DST is not rocket science, just a simple algorithm. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Question regarding paddle wiring
Tom: On my paddle, the tip represents the dit and I believe all of my rigs are set to right-handed. 73's, John AA0VE Tom McCulloch wrote: Can anyone tell me if the tip connection of the plug generates the dots and the middle (is that considered the 'ring'?) the dashes, or is the other way around? Tnx for your help Tom. WB2QDG k2 1103 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement
Mine has a bug in the DST function. I disable that feature and then do what Alexandra does to make it read properly in the Spring/Summer. John AA0VE Rich Lentz wrote: My Radio Shack desk Atomic Clock switched as required. Rich, KE0X -Original Message- Meanwhile my dumb atomic clock has decided it doesn't believe in this stuff either, right now I have it on mountain time to keep it ahead an hour of where it was. Is WWV/WWVH not sending info that accounts for daylight savings time any more? 73 de Alex NS6Y ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] MH2 Microphone Plug
Jim: Radio shack has it for about four bucks. Go to their website and search on 8 pin microphone connector and you'll find it. No affiliation with Radio Shack and no idea how good or bad the quality of the part is. I'm sure all of the usual electronics parts houses also carry it. 73's, John AA0VE Jim Campbell wrote: I have a need for the microphone plug to match the mike socket in the K2 front panel. Can anyone give me a source for this part? Many thanks, Jim W4BQP K2 # 2268 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] QRP freq?
Dave: The US CW QRP calling frequencies are: 160M 1.810 80M 3.560 and 3.710 (Novice) 40M 7.040 and 7.110 (Novice) 30M 10.106 20M 14.060 15M 21.060 and 21.110 (Novice) 12M 24.906 10M 28.060 and 28.110 (Novice) I know I'm supplying more than you asked for, but it can't hurt to mention all the QRP frequencies now and then. 73's, John AA0VE Dave Sublette wrote: Can someone tell me what the QRP hang out frequency is on 80m CW? Thanks Dave, K4TO ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 microphone question
Werner: I went to the ICOM website and did a search on the SM-8 microphone. I found the IC-718 uses the same mic, so I suggest you download the manual for the IC-718 and you should find enough info about the microphone and the connector to get it working on your K2. I don't think there's a circuit diagram for it, but there is a pin-out for the connector on the radio and you can figure it out from there. You can do the same for other mics you may be interested in interfacing with the K2. 73's and good luck, John AA0VE Dr. Werner Furlan wrote: I have one Icom SM-8 microphone - is there a circuit diagram around for this type of microphone? 73! de Werner OE9FWV ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] problem identifying capacitors
Looking back on it, to me the biggest advantage of doing a complete inventory before starting construction was the problem of identifying capacitors. I remember how thankful I was that the resistors were packed in order and wanted the same convenience with the capacitors. I laid out several sheets of paper on a table, separated the capacitors into little piles on the paper, then marked down the value and quantity of each pile. Using the parts list as ground truth, if there was a discrepancy at that point, I knew either I did something wrong in sorting (always the case for me) or I was sent the wrong part or quantity (never the case for me). I'll admit this took some time, especially with my soldering station begging for attention, but once I started soldering, it was more like running an assembly line than solving a 1000 piece jigsaw puzzle. At least it worked for me. 73's, John AA0VE ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] 2.5mm DC power plug ?
Clint: The while line might designate the positive lead, but why guess? The best way to check is with an ohmmeter. The lead that measures 0 ohms with the outer barrel would be the negative lead. You can check the inner connector while you are at it, to make sure there are no opens or shorts anywhere. John AA0VE Clint Sprague wrote: I have a 2.5mm DC female coaxial power plug moled on a cord. One of the leads on the cord has a white line ... does this white line designate the center pin on the plug? 12VDC needs to be on the center pin, so I need to make sure I install the power pole connectors on the power souce end correctly. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] How can the KNB2 be tested?
I haven't installed my KNB2 yet, but I was thinking that a hair dryer with an AC/DC motor (i.e., with brushes) should be a fine noise generator. Other possibilities might include an electric shaver or a power drill. Good luck, John AA0VE ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] speaker
John: The external speaker jack is mono. When you plug a stereo plug into a mono jack, you only get sound on the speaker connected to the tip of the plug. I guess you could either replace the mono jack with a stereo one or replace the stereo plug with a mono one. Either way, you'd have an impedance mismatch. If you are using amplified speakers, maybe it would work if you plugged them into the headphone jack, which is a stereo jack. Some think the K2 audio output is marginal. I can't imagine it getting better if you try to drive 2 non-amplified speakers instead of 1. Good luck, John AA0VE n3drk wrote: I connected an external speaker to the ext speaker jack on the back of the k2. However only one speaker has audio coming from it. I plugged the same ext speaker into the mark v and the two speakers have audio. These are stereo speakers. Should not the k2 have audio coming from both speakers? john ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Power calcs and simple charging mod
Paul: Here's the way I'd figure it out: Transmit current = 1000 ma Receive current = 70 ma Xmit duty cycle = 12.5% (25% transmit x 50% duty cycle while transmitting) Average current drawn = 0.875 x 70 ma + 0.125 x 1000 ma = 186.25 ma. Using a 2400 ma hr battery, you'd think you could get 2400/186.25 or 12.9 hours from that battery. However, I think you'll find you'll get less than that in practice. I'm not familiar with the K1, but transmitters usually draw more current as the supply voltage drops, assuming the power out stays constant. Also, the battery is rated at 2400 ma hr, only if it is discharged over 20 hours. This means you should be able to draw 120 ma from it for 20 hours. But you couldn't drawn 1 amp for 2.4 hours. My guess is that you could use the K1 for at least 8 and maybe 10 hours at that duty cycle. That's still a long time. I'm sure my fist would get tired way before the battery died. If you took a break or your transmit duty cycle wasn't really 25%, you could get close to the 12 hours. 73's, John AA0VE Paul Webb wrote: HI all The current drain is about 65-75mA ,depending on volume setting about 70mA for normal listening. I have fitted 2400mA cells that just fit . I have checked the current drain at 4 watts from these cells and it seems about 1000mA (1Amp) So I have worked the following out but would just like a check done Irx = 60 Itx=1000 Tx duty cycle 50% (since CW) Ratio tx/rx 25% So in one hour I would be in tx mode for 15mins drawing 1000mA but since it’s at 50% duty that’s 500mA for 15mins Which works out to 250mA for 30 mins or 125mA for 1 hr Plus the rx drain of say 70mA so that’s 70mA/Hrs Total drain then is 125+70=195mA/Hr Since I have 2400mA/Hr cells that’s 2400/195=12.3Hrs use That just seems at lot of use at 25% tx/rx ratio and with 4 watts output power but it seems right to me., anyone confirm ? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Internal Battery Voltages
Don: The K2 internal battery is a gel-cell (or sealed lead-acid) battery, not NiCd or NiMH, but much of your discussion probably still applies. It may take a while for the equalization charge to get all the (6) cells charged to full potential, which is always true, but might be more so when the battery is totally drained, as it was in this case. John AA0VE Don wrote: Carl, I know little about the K2 battery but assume that it is nickle-cadmium or nickle-metal-hydride and probably consists of 10 or so cells in series. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Split indicator
Fred: You are doing it right. This discussion is mainly by people who think the down arrow isn't a good enough indicator of split mode. Either that or they just like to constantly improve their K2. I have too many project boxes around the house with 1 or 2 spare holes in them, due to design second thoughts and I don't want my K2 starting to look like that, so my mods are few and far between. Also, it would be hard for me to believe I could significantly improve upon the factory design of my K2. 73's, John AA0VE Fred Jensen wrote: OK folks, what am I missing here? There are so many things about my Elecraft radios I still don't understand or know how to use, but ... the little down-arrow blinks for me when I have held the SPLIT button down. I've always thought that was the indicator that I was in split mode. It did when I worked K7C. I just did when I tried it right now. Have I screwed up yet again? Fred K6DGW Auburn CA CM98lw ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Here we go ... stupid newbie questions ...
Keith: Just so you aren't misled, the 100 Watt PA CAN indeed go into a separate enclosure and serve as a linear, but ONLY for a K2. It CANNOT be used as a general purpose linear for any other rig. I wasn't sure this point has been made yet. 73's, John AA0VE Keith Darwin, wrote: Can the 100 watt PA go into a separate enclosure and serve as a linear?.. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Auto Tuner
Jerry: The K2 autotuner seems to work FB for me. I don't think you can go wrong getting one. It's a lot more convenient than having a separate tuner. Just push the tune button and away you go. And it seems to tune just about anything. 73's, John AA0VE NR5A wrote: I'm finially getting off my tail and ordering stuff to upgrade my K2 to a B version and adding the 160m, and Noise Blanketer options before anything else happens. lol. I'd like comments on how well the auto tuner works, what you think of it, bla bla. I've got the T-1 which I just love, think it would be nice to have tuner in rig also, then T-1 could be used for portable, mobile what ever else. Jerry - NR5A - South Dakota ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT: Electronic curriculum for middle school wanted
I replied privately to Craig, but for the benefit of the reflector, I found that the Heathkit electronics courses are still available. Just go to www.heathkit.com for details. I have no idea how expensive they are these days - might be pretty pricy. I recall they weren't cheap 20 years ago when I bought one of them for myself. I have no affiliation with Heathkit. In fact, I just found out this evening that these courses still existed, with the help of a Google search. John AA0VE On 8/11/05, Craig Rairdin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I'd like something that covers the basics of electricity and electronics that includes some simple projects. In the end I'd like them to be able to take the Technician exam, so I'll have to supplement it with rules and operating practices. I'm also going to supplement it with basic home wiring just for fun. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 Portable Battery Pak Question
Jonathan: There would be no problem using the 7ah gel cell if you ran the K2 at 5 Watts. 50 Watts is something else. First of all, the 7ah rating is based on a 20 hour discharge. This means you will get 7ah out of the battery if you draw 350 ma for 20 hours. But you won't be able to draw 7 amps for 1 hour. With the K2, you'd get about 24 hours of receive-only with that battery. And I suspect the K2 running 50 Watts will draw a lot more than 7 amps. At 50 Watts, I'm guessing you might be able to do some heavy operating for 2-3 hours before the battery bites the dust. My suggestion would be to stick to 5 Watts, unless a desired contact can't hear you, then crank it up as needed. Good luck and 73's, John AA0VE Gottlieb, Jonathan wrote: Does anybody have any experience using the HFProjects Power-Pak with a K2/100? It is a nice 12v 7ah gel cell with built in trickle charger (www.hfprojects.com). I wouldn't expect it to power the K2/100 at full 100 Watts, but I'm thinking it would be a good way to have a nice power supply for camping or traveling and run the k2/100 at 35-50 watts. Please let me know if anybody has used this successfully. Jonathan Gottlieb WA3WDK k2/100 #4856 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: FW: [Elecraft] Elecraft Kit suggestion
For me, the most important part of doing inventory is identifying all the components, especially the tricky capacitors - like the ones labelled 270 and 271. It's pretty darn easy to use the 270 for a 270 pf capacitor and then later on complain that the 27 pf capacitor is nowhere to be found. The same goes for inductors that look just like resistors. If you notice these subtleties while sorting parts, it's a lot easier to correct them, since the soldering station hasn't even been turned on yet. Like the old adage: measure twice, cut once. For these kits, it is identify twice, solder once. FWIW, John AA0VE PS: K2 #3401 performed admirably this past weekend. W3FPR - Don Wilhelm wrote: I would like to emphasize Ian's comments on doing an inventory, and IMHO, the most important part is knowing where the components are when each is needed. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] stranger than real life
Like it or not, the US is still using feet and yards, not centimeters and meters. The shortwave bands have traditionally been specified using the metric system. However, we don't typically have meter sticks handy. So if the ARRL would say to use an antenna 10.52 meters long, the first thing most hams would have to do is convert to feet. So why not specify it in feet to start with? It's inconsistent, but sometimes handy to mix units. Just my opinion, John AA0VE mc wrote: When studying the HAM workbooks from ARRL, I found a few inconsistency in statements, example one of many: Is there a reason why HAM's use 40 meters (or other band) at 7.125 kHz (or other frequency) then say the antenna should be 34.5 feet would it not be easier to keep everything in metric ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] ethanol/isopropyl
Nobody has mentioned denatured alcohol yet. Since it also is not drinkable (more than once), it does not have any liquor tax and is quite a bit cheaper than Everclear. I'm wondering if there is some reason NOT to use this product, which I believe is mainly ethanol and methanol. John AA0VE [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: In a message dated 5/17/05 2:25:49 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I use Graves USP 190 proof grain alcohol. You can buy it at the liquor store. It does a good job on the boards, and if you have any left over, it tasts pretty good in orange juice. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Resistors
Maybe I missed it, but I didn't see anyone mention that the K2 resistors are packed in the correct order from the factory. Also being color-blind, I never bothered to try to read the color codes. I just grabbed the next one from the string of resistors, checked it with the DVM, and installed it. It's been a couple of years now, but I seem to recall the hardest part was finding which end of the string of resistors to start from. 73's, John AA0ve ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] XG1... other frequencies possible?
Joe: I tried it with a 3.57 MHz crystal and it worked FB. I'm guessing it will work with most HF crystals in the 80-20M range. John AA0VE Joe Daring wrote: Hello' Elecraft community... I have just received my XG1 Kit... I'm wondering if I have any chance to use a different XTAL to make it work somewhere on 14.XXX MHz... What should I do for this? Any hint *VERY* appreciated! ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] k2 control board r18, r19
Jon: If you are sure you intend to buy the audio filter, you can buy the kit now and install the proper connectors right away. You can then use a couple of scrap resistor leads as jumpers to make the required connections - the same as if you had the audio filter installed and wanted to remove it for some reason. The filter instructions tell you how. Or perhaps you could buy and install just the headers now. You can get the part number from the audio filter instructions on line. That would allow you to choose between the filter and the DSP unit later on and you'd only be out the cost of the header. BTW, I'm not a great fan of desoldering, but I was able to remove the jumpers on my K2 with no problem. 73's and good luck, John AA0VE jon howe wrote: Any thoughts on a solderless solution to R18 and R19? 73, ve8jj ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] what should I hear using cw reverse vs normal?
Tim and Tom: Tom's answer is ideally the correct one, but if you experience no difference at all in your sidetone pitch when you switch from cw to cw-rev with your K2, you should consider yourself very lucky. They should be close (within perhaps 20 Hz), but don't expect them to be identical. You just can't calibrate the K2 accurately enough to get those results. So don't be surprised if the sidetone pitch changes a little when you switch to CW-rev. And don't waste all weekend trying to make that difference zero. It most likely isn't going to happen. At least that's my experience. 73's, John AA0VE Tom Arntzen wrote: Hi Tim! If you are 100% zerobeat with the signal u will not nessecary hear any difference at all. cw and cwr is like lsb and usb. Normal differences will be a little change in the noicepitch due to switching sidebands. In some rare cases where you are troubled with qrm you could try to switch opposite sideband , e.g. cw to cwr. Not always , but in some cases you can improve your reception. Also if you don't hear any difference in pitch of the cw signal when toggling between cw and cwr you are 100% on frequency with your qsopartner. 73 de Tom LA1PHA - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Thursday, February 03, 2005 5:51 AM Subject: [Elecraft] what should I hear using cw reverse vs normal? If I am listening to 1.00 in vw mode and chenge between cw and cw reverse - what should I hear as a difference and why? Thanks in advance, 73/Tim NZ7C ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Which Mods Are Applicable??
Jim: I guess my approach would be to buy and build the basic K2 first. My S/N 3401 just missed having the temperature stability mod included (I think they started with S/N 3425 or so). Anyway, the only mod I ended up making on it was that one. I am totally happy with the radio in that configuration. Looking back on things, I probably didn't even need the temp stability mod, since I'm not planning to add the amplifier. I added several options, but have made no other mods. I've heard the key click mod is another important one, and I might end up building that one, but for now I'm happy with what I have. I believe that if there were truly any important mods that needed to be made before the radio performed well, they would have been included with the basic kit. It works well right out of the box - after many hours of soldering (hi). My 2 cents worth. John AA0VE Jim Harris wrote: How does one determine which should/need be purchased? If needed why are they not included with the appropriate kit? It appears I could spend a hundred dollars or more on modifications to make a new radio work. That could wreck my radio budget. Thanks for the help, Jim, AB0UK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 RF board part C72 Identity
Tim: I am using my Rev E manual for reference. It might be slightly different in yours. There is a 2.7 pf capacitor (C22) listed and I'm wondering if you have identified that when you did your inventory. I suspect the blue 2.7C cap you found might be that one. Also, there is a 27 pf capacitor (C198) which in my manual is erroneously described in the parts list as 27 or 271, but I believe it should have said 27 or 270. The really confusing aspect of it all is a 270 pfd capacitor should be labelled 271, so you have the case where something marked 270 isn't a 270 pfd capacitor. I found all of this while doing inventory and made sure I marked them unambiguously so I wouldn't get them mixed up when it was time to install them. Good luck and 73's, John AA0VE Tim Logan wrote: I'm having trouble locating this part. Manual says it should be labeled 271. I have a small blue cap that is labeled 2.7C. Could this be C72? Thanks for any help. 73/Tim NZ7C ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Checkout - Excess current?
Gordon: Also, the current drain depends on your input voltage. With a slightly drained battery showing 11.9 volts on the K2, my current drain on 40M is about 2.2 Amps. At 13.8 volts (showing 13.0 on the K2), it is 2.0. John AA0VE W3FPR - Don Wilhelm wrote: Gordon, 2.2 Amps is probably OK - it is only 10% above the nominal, and that is within the range of acceptable tolerance for an assembly of 5% tolerance parts. - Original Message - I am almost done assembling #3108. During the 40 meter Transmitter Alignment (page 72) the radio is drawing 2.2 amps for 10w power. The manual says much higher than 2 A is a problem. Is 2.2 a problem? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 problem at page 43 of Rev. F manual - need some help
Tim: Here's my put on the topics: 1) I guess the default has to be something for the PRE/ATT switch. As long as it seems to work and the K2 remembers the last setting per band, it sounds to me like it is working OK. I can't remember what my settings initially were. 2) Do the secondary functions of the RATE switch work (lock and 0)? Without digging out the schematic, my guess is that switch is just an input to the main processor. If the LOCK and 0 functions work, but the RATE doesn't, it sounds like a problem with the firmware, which would be pretty strange indeed. So I'm guessing the LOCK and 0 functions don't work either, which means either a bad solder joint or perhaps a short or a defective switch. That's my 2 cents worth. Hope it helps. John AA0VE Tim Logan wrote: 1 - The PRE annunciator is turned on for all bands - even after a reset to factory defaults. The PRE/ATT switch works and activates relays. If I go through each band and turn off the PRE and then turn the K2 off and on again, the bands WILL retain the status of having the PRE turned off. However, I do not understand why it defaulted to being turned on from the factory settings. Can you point me in the right direction to understand this? 2 - The RATE switch does not change rates. I checked the secondary menu and the basic 3 rate default is set. Can you suggest where I start to solve this issue? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Atomic Clocks and Aluminum Siding
A GPS receiver inside an aluminum-sided house may also have some trouble. Mine, which has no external antenna, has trouble picking up satellites in my (brick-sided) house and in my (metal-sided) car, other than on the dashboard near the windshield. If I ever get lost in my basement, the GPS receiver won't help (hi). My cell phone has much better coverage, but I'd need a magnifying glass to read the time from that display. John AA0VE At 12:34 AM 1/9/2005, Robert Rennard wrote: Why not just use a cheap GPS receiver instead of a WWVB receiver. It should work anywhere in the world, and give time keeping accuracy better than 1 microsecond relative to UTC. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Birdy on 28020 with K2?
I found a birdie at 28.000 (QRP K2 #3401), but that's too close to the band edge to worry about. None at 28.020. I'm guessing my birdie is a harmonic of the 4.00 MHz oscillator. Is it possible your tuning is off by 20 KHz? Until I got it right, my K2 dial clibration was off quite a bit on 10M. Good luck. 73's and happy new year, John AA0VE Tom Althoff wrote: I'm getting a birdy near 28.020MHz with my K2/100. Is there anything that can be done to eliminate this or move it a few kHz? Tom K2TA K2 #1117 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] T6 continuity checks
Mike: If you look at the schematic, you'll see that pin 3 of T6 is attached to pin 2 of T6. You should get continuity between all leads. If you DON'T, something is wrong. Continue with your building... 73's, John AA0VE Mike wrote: I just finished installing T6 on the RF board, and did continuity checks just like all the other toroids up to this point. I found continuity existing between all leads. By all visual inspections, it appears to be no shorts anywhere. Is this normal for T6? Thanks, Mike, NJ2OM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Low voltage on AGC threshold
Mike: How accurate is your DMM? The 8v and 5v regulators should still produce 8 and 5 volts even with a slightly low supply voltage. Also, if the K2's internal voltmeter reads the same as your DMM, that tells me your DMM is reading low because there is a diode in the K2 power line which will make the K2 internal voltmeter read LESS than an accurate external DMM. Only if the external DMM reads low would the two voltmeters agree. Try to check your voltages with a different DMM. My guess is your problem is NOT low voltage all around. Good luck. 73's John AA0VE Mike, W8ENG wrote: This is an update to my earlier post. I touched up a solder joint and reassembled the radio. The voltage on pin 5 of U2 was still 3.78 volts, with the RF gain set fully clockwise. The input voltage from my power supply was 12.4 volts, both on my DMM and on the K2's internal voltmeter. The voltage out on the 8v regulator was 7.8,a nd on the 5v regulator was 4.9. I'm thinking that the problem may be low voltage all around. I don't have a better power supply to check with at a higher voltage. Any addational help or comments would be appreciated. 73, Mike, W8ENG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Parallel line lightning arrestors
Mike: I've had an ICE model 309 for just about 9 years now. It's been outside all that time and, other than the label getting faded, it looks as good as new. I have it attached to a 64 ft. doublet with ladder line and have put up to 100 watts through it many times, but not since I finished my K2 (hi). I still disconnect all antennas from my rigs unless I'm operating, but the ICE helps prevent static buildup, even when there are no storms in the vicinity. Don't know how well it would protect if I ever had a direct hit, but you can say that about most lightning suppressors. I also don't know anything about the Cerbik doublet but I am satisfied with my ICE lightning arrestor with my application. John AA0VE Mike B wrote: In a painfully slow, round-about way, I'm getting a Cebik 44' doublet put up. I'm curious if anyone is familiar with the ICE brand of lightning arrestors (http://www.arraysolutions.com/Products/ice/impulse1.html#2)? I'm familiar with PolyPhaser products, too, but the ICE equipment sounds well-built good for the job, too. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Low Power ?
Larry: I haven't measured my K2 output power for a while, but I recall I can get 10 Watts out on 10 meters and at least 15 on 80 meters when I'm using a 13.8 volt power supply. A 12 volt gelcell doesn't allow for full output, especially at the higher frequencies. If you are using 13.8 volts, you might try to go through the alignment procedure one more time. With your readings, it's hard to imagine there is much wrong with the rig. Of course, you also need to be fairly confident your power meter is accurate at these levels. 73's John AA0VE Larry Dodson wrote: I wonder if my K2 (Serial # 2424 with latest mods and software) is set up correctly and would appreciate comments. Output power with CAL CURR set at 3.0 amps is as below. 40 Meters = 10.0 watts out 30 Meters = 12.0 watts out 20 Meters = 11.0 watts out 15 Meters = 8.0 watts out 12 Meters = 9.5 watts out 10 Meters =7.0 watts out ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Mouser Part # Needed
Folks: Also, I suspect replacement parts sales (other than warranty service) contributes to Elecraft's bottom line and helps them keep product prices where they are. Unless their replacement prices go sky high or their service goes south, we might as well get our parts directly from them. In this case, there's no reason to avoid the middle-man and all kinds of reasons to support him. 73's John AA0VE David N. wrote: I have found that From my expereience with Elecraft That it is cheaper to go to them for the parts that I needed from when I dropped my Egg carton full of parts and some of them went into the Air conditioning Duct I called out to them got 3 Capacitors with 3 day shipping $5 Dollars. You can't Beat that David KR4OW K2 4320 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: FW: [Elecraft] K1 Battery Question
Hi Dan: As I wrote the reply, I was thinking that 40% duty cycle was way too high, because, as you say, there's lots of dead time even while transmitting, but I figured the example would show John how to go about estimating the life of his battery using his own guesses. There are lots of unknowns involved. I have no idea what power setting he uses, how efficient the K1 transmitter is, his SWR, etc. My K2 draws anywhere from 1.5-2.4 Amps at 5 Watts into a dummy load, depending on the band. Another thing not factored in is the 4.0 Amp Hr battery rating assumes a 20 hour discharge. A 1 Amp load would finish off the battery in less than 4 hours. Battery temperature is also a factor, but not so much in the Summer. In my case, I'm sure I'd be asleep well before the battery died. Thanks for the clarification. I should think twice before I hit the send key. This group's too smart! 73's John AA0VE Dan Barker wrote: Actually, the 40% Tx duty is only 50% key down (there's spaces betewwn the elements). So, you use .2 for the Tx factor. .8 Ir + .2 It = .24 or 16 hours. Now, after you work the 9 hours, you might fall over and hit your head on the key, and then the CW duty cycle goes to 100%. But the Tx duty cycle would go to 100% also, and you'd be off the air sooner. Not that it matters much as you are napping on the keyg. Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft You must subscribe to post. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, Unsub etc): http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft page: http://www.elecraft.com
