Re: [Elecraft] KX3 not working on receive

[Rick Dettinger]

Thanks for the suggestions to help with my ailing KX3.
I have tried them, and also a factory reset.  No joy.
Looks like the rig is not going into the receive mode.  The fact that injecting 
an S9 signal at 7040 KHz does not indicate on the S Meter makes me think the 
KX3  is staying in the transmit mode.
Looks like a trip to the Mothership is in the rigs future.

73,
Rick  K7MW

>> 
>>> On Aug 22, 2019, at 8:01 PM, Rick Dettinger  wrote:
>>> 
>>> My KX3, SN 3271, is completely dead on receive.  The transmitter, side tone 
>>> and monitor control are working as ever.  Everything on the front screen 
>>> seems the same as ever.  I don’t get any S meter reading when I inject the 
>>> 50 microvolt 7040 KHz signal from my XG1.  Not sure if it is staying in the 
>>> transmit mode with a transceiver switching problem, or just a problem with 
>>> the receiver circuitry.  
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[Elecraft] KX3 not working on receive

[Rick Dettinger]

My KX3, SN 3271, is completely dead on receive.  The transmitter, side tone and 
monitor control are working as ever.  Everything on the front screen seems the 
same as ever.  I don’t get any S meter reading when I inject the 50 microvolt 
7040 KHz signal from my XG1.  Not sure if it is staying in the transmit mode 
with a transceiver switching problem, or just a problem with the receiver 
circuitry.  I can transmit with the KX3, and receive with my Collins 75A4.  I 
get 100 watts key down from my KXPA Amp.  I would like to use the fine receiver 
in my KX3, and would appreciate any comments.  While I only operate on CW, I 
listen to AM and SSB signals.  I can’t even here anything when tuned to a 
strong local AM station, using a wide filter.
Besides the KXBC3, my KX3 is equipped with the internal tuner.  
Extra Credit for answering the following; If I am not going to use internal 
batteries anymore, is there any problem with removing the cell holders and 
cable.  Can I also remove the KXBC3 board for possible resale?  Would I need to 
order a battery retainer if I am not using internal batteries? 

Thanks and 73,
Rick Dettinger K7MW
 
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Affordability of the *NEW* K-Line

[Rick Dettinger]

> 
And, that was for an amplifier that would have been closer to the KPA500 amp.  
About 500 watts out.

73, Rick, K7MW 

> Collins 30S-1 Linear Amplifier (1 KW), 1958, original cost: $1556, cost in 
> 2017 dollars: $13,264
> 
> 
> 
> So, a new technology K-Line is not that bad as something equivalent from 
> Collins back in the 1950s
> could easily cost 4 times as much today!
> 
> 73, phil, K7PEH
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Ground rods and concrete

[Rick Dettinger]

Thyir’er we go!

73,
Rick  K7MW





> On Apr 18, 2017, at 6:01 PM, Matt Zilmer  wrote:
> 
> Time to update that list of frequently misspelled words. It is very long, but 
> also distinguished.
> 
> How about it's versus its?  The first is a contraction, and the second is a 
> possessive.  I think, from experience, that this is the single most common 
> spelling error that I see from English-first writers.
> 
> /me ducks.  I'm SURE this is off topic.
> 
> 73,
> 
> matt W6NIA
> 
> 
> On 4/18/2017 5:03 PM, Randy Lake wrote:
>> This has been bugging me for a while and I am now in a mindframe to comment.
>> Lightening:
>> light·en·ing
>> ˈlītniNG/
>> *noun*
>> 
>>1. a drop in the level of the uterus during the last weeks of pregnancy
>>as the head of the fetus engages in the pelvis.
>> 
>> Come on !!
>> 
>> Randy
>> N1KWF
>> 
>> 
>> On Tue, Apr 18, 2017 at 7:39 PM, Ken G Kopp  wrote:
>> 
>>> I was the first to use the term "exploding tower base" in this discussion.
>>> The term "exploding" was probably not correct.  As several others have
>>> phrased it, an instant expansion of steam is more correct. Concrete is
>>> never totally "dry" in the context of this conversation.
>>> 
>>> I witnessed lightening blowing apart the two tower bases I spoke of in
>>> person, directly, and in real-time. It happened in the mid-sixties at the
>>> St. Petersburg, FL Coast Guard base.  As someone else has mentioned;
>>> the Tampa Bay region has the highest incidence of lightening in the
>>> Western Hemisphere.  To the one of you who accused my of lying ...
>>> I was there ... you weren't.
>>> 
>>> At the time I was an ET aboard the USC (Now NOAA) Oceanographic
>>> Survey ship Hydrographer/WTEI and we were in the area deliberately
>>> attracting lightening with balloon-hoisted cables.  I -do- know something
>>> about the infinite uncertainty of lightning.
>>> 
>>> I'm a retired electric power company two-way radio tech and have probably
>>> dealt with more types of towers than most of you.  Large electric
>>> transmission
>>> line towers are almost always set on four concrete piers, and are grounded
>>> with (usually) copper straps cad-welded to each tower leg and connected to
>>> ground rods a bit away from the cement.  Each of us can search long enough
>>> to find "facts" that support our various positons, especially on today's
>>> Internet.
>>> 
>>> Here in the mountains of the West ... as well other regions ... finding and
>>> maintaining a "good" ground at a radio site atop a mountain can be a
>>> "challenge".  It's almost never done with ground rods.  My power company
>>> employer has several hundred mountain-top microwave and/or radio sites.
>>> Been there, done that, as they say.
>>> 
>>> One responder spoke of fitting a copper pipe with a garden hose fitting and
>>> "flushing" it into the ground.  That works very well, and is how some of my
>>> 14 grounds are installed.  It helps if the downward end is partly
>>> flattened, BTW.
>>> 
>>> A much bigger problem overall than lightening is water collecting in tower
>>> legs,
>>> especially in climates where it can rust (undetected) from the inside and /
>>> or
>>> freeze and split one or more legs.  There's an accepted way to avoid this.
>>> 
>>> 73!
>>> 
>>> Ken Kopp - K0PP
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Apr 18, 2017 at 4:30 PM,  wrote:
>>> 
 some 40 years ago, maybe longer I put up a 50' rohn 25G tower. Dug the
 hole
>>> and set the tower base in it alone with a 12' 3/4" ground rod and
>>> poured the
>>> cement, left about 6" of ground rod protruding. I bonded to that rod
>>> and grounded
>>> the tower. 3 years later I had a huge lightning strike on my tower and
>>> yes.. it cracked
>>> that base.
>>> 
>>> never again
>>> 
>>> Ronnie W5SUM
>>> 
 __
 
 
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>> 
>> 
> 
> -- 
> "A delay is better than a disaster."
> -- unknonwn
> 
> Matt Zilmer, W6NIA
> [Shiraz]
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Ground rods and concrete

[Rick Dettinger]

Here is an article that described a Ufer ground failure that prompted the 
installation of an extensive external grounding system on a 1900’ BC tower.

http://www.radioworld.com/headlines/0045/proper-grounding-and-bonding-are-crucial/338510

The Broadcast industry doesn’t seem to put their faith in Uber grounding.

Rick
 
> On Apr 18, 2017, at 12:25 AM, David Gilbert <xda...@cis-broadband.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> You also have many thousands of ham radio towers in northwest 7 land with 
> either Ufer grounds or embedded tower bases.  You tell me how many of them 
> have exploded during lightning strikes, and how that justifies the admonition 
> to "never encase a ground rod in a tower base".
> 
> I once did an extensive internet search trying to find documented examples of 
> concrete structures that had exploded from the inside out due to internal 
> grounded conductors.  I couldn't find a single one.  Maybe you can find one, 
> and if so I'd like to see the link.  I did find several instances of damage 
> to concrete structures from lightning hits, but all of them had external 
> damage from simple lightning strikes.  Most other damage was attributed to 
> the fact that there wasn't any grounding at all ... i.e., an ungrounded 
> structure on top of a concrete base.
> 
> From a theoretical point of view, I could picture a discharge causing more 
> damage from insufficient metal in the concrete rather than too much.  Spread 
> the current ... minimize the heat buildup. If you want to argue that a single 
> ground rod in a concrete base is a poor idea, OK ... I can buy that.  But 
> these other blanket statements are garbage science.
> 
> Dave   AB7E
> 
> 
> 
> On 4/17/2017 10:45 PM, Rick Dettinger wrote:
>> A Uber ground was developed for dry areas during WW2.  In damp areas, the 
>> concrete can do just what happened in the concrete pole test.
>> 
>> Per Wikipedia article:
>> "A disadvantage of Ufer grounds is that the moisture in the concrete can 
>> flash into steam during a lightning strike or similar high energy fault 
>> condition. This can crack the surrounding concrete and damage the building 
>> foundation.”
>> 
>> We have plenty of damp soil in northwest 7 land.
>> 
>> Best,
>> Rick
>>  
>>> On Apr 17, 2017, at 9:57 PM, David Gilbert <xda...@cis-broadband.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> That isn't even close to being the same condition and only serves to help 
>>> perpetuate a stupid myth that refuses to die among the ill informed.  
>>> Anyone that doesn't understand that a Ufer ground is essentially multiple 
>>> ground rods encased in concrete is indeed ill informed.  And anyone who 
>>> doesn't understand the mechanisms and considerations behind a Ufer ground 
>>> shouldn't be making contributions to threads like this.
>>> 
>>> Sorry for the ire displayed by me here, but this stupid topic keeps 
>>> surfacing year after year in ham radio circles ... and specifically this 
>>> forum ... without the least bit of thoughtful consideration behind it.  I'm 
>>> tired of our hobby, supposedly a technically based one, being subject to 
>>> definitively stated exhortations that are so demonstrably wrong.
>>> 
>>> Dave  AB7E
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On 4/17/2017 9:09 PM, Rick Dettinger wrote:
>>>> I don’t think its a myth.  In the early 1970’s, the power company I worked 
>>>> for was testing out some hollow reinforced concrete poles.  There was 
>>>> considerable concern by the line workers that the poles might be more 
>>>> dangerous to work on than wooden poles, in the event of an accident.  To 
>>>> check this, we installed one of the poles in a sub station, and wrapped a 
>>>> 26KV 1200 amp feeder conductor around the pole.  When the station breaker 
>>>> was closed, the pole exploded dramatically, with a large fireball.  The 
>>>> results might have something to do with moisture content in the concrete.  
>>>> The results convinced us to only use the poles on transmission lines that 
>>>> wouldn’t be worked hot, like we did with distribution lines.  Of course, 
>>>> the power levels are much higher in lightening strikes.  The conduction 
>>>> paths should similar from encapsulated ground rods in a tower base to 
>>>> Earth.
>>>> 
>>>> 73,
>>>> Rick  K7MW
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>>> On Apr 17, 2017, at 8:32 PM, Doug Renwick <ve...@sasktel.net> wrote:
>>>>

Re: [Elecraft] OT: Ground rods and concrete

[Rick Dettinger]

The Electric Utility Industry spends a lot of money bypassing steel reinforced 
concrete tower legs with copper conductor to a ground system for lightening 
protection.

73, Rick  K7MW

 
> On Apr 18, 2017, at 7:16 AM, JOE  wrote:
> 
> Well, in my cellular experience of watching many tower and monopole 
> installations, tower grounds going thru concrete was generally not allowed.  
> Several reasons that I have been told are moisture in the concrete can turn 
> to steam during a direct lightning hit, damaging the concrete base material.  
> Ground conductors can be damaged by chemical reaction from contact with the 
> concrete and moisture.  Lastly, you cannot do routine inspections on ground 
> conductors that pass thru the tower base.
> 
> Tower grounding specifications are detailed in Motorola R56 Standards and 
> Guidelines Manual.  This shows the ground conductors outside the concrete 
> tower base.
> 
> Joe
> 
> On 4/18/2017 8:05 AM, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:
>> Message: 3
>> Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2017 21:32:02 -0600
>> From: "Doug Renwick"
>> To: "'Elecraft Reflector'"
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Ground rods and concrete
>> Message-ID: <191B5755E4654B65951378A9EF28A8F1@DOUG8PC>
>> Content-Type: text/plain;charset="us-ascii"
>> 
>> That myth refuses to die. I have 5 concrete tower bases with ground rods
>> partially encased and never a worry about an exploding base.
>> 
>> Doug
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Ground rods and concrete

[Rick Dettinger]

A Uber ground was developed for dry areas during WW2.  In damp areas, the 
concrete can do just what happened in the concrete pole test.

Per Wikipedia article:
"A disadvantage of Ufer grounds is that the moisture in the concrete can flash 
into steam during a lightning strike or similar high energy fault condition. 
This can crack the surrounding concrete and damage the building foundation.”

We have plenty of damp soil in northwest 7 land.

Best,
Rick
 
> On Apr 17, 2017, at 9:57 PM, David Gilbert <xda...@cis-broadband.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> That isn't even close to being the same condition and only serves to help 
> perpetuate a stupid myth that refuses to die among the ill informed.  Anyone 
> that doesn't understand that a Ufer ground is essentially multiple ground 
> rods encased in concrete is indeed ill informed.  And anyone who doesn't 
> understand the mechanisms and considerations behind a Ufer ground shouldn't 
> be making contributions to threads like this.
> 
> Sorry for the ire displayed by me here, but this stupid topic keeps surfacing 
> year after year in ham radio circles ... and specifically this forum ... 
> without the least bit of thoughtful consideration behind it.  I'm tired of 
> our hobby, supposedly a technically based one, being subject to definitively 
> stated exhortations that are so demonstrably wrong.
> 
> Dave  AB7E
> 
> 
> 
> On 4/17/2017 9:09 PM, Rick Dettinger wrote:
>> I don’t think its a myth.  In the early 1970’s, the power company I worked 
>> for was testing out some hollow reinforced concrete poles.  There was 
>> considerable concern by the line workers that the poles might be more 
>> dangerous to work on than wooden poles, in the event of an accident.  To 
>> check this, we installed one of the poles in a sub station, and wrapped a 
>> 26KV 1200 amp feeder conductor around the pole.  When the station breaker 
>> was closed, the pole exploded dramatically, with a large fireball.  The 
>> results might have something to do with moisture content in the concrete.  
>> The results convinced us to only use the poles on transmission lines that 
>> wouldn’t be worked hot, like we did with distribution lines.  Of course, the 
>> power levels are much higher in lightening strikes.  The conduction paths 
>> should similar from encapsulated ground rods in a tower base to Earth.
>> 
>> 73,
>> Rick  K7MW
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Apr 17, 2017, at 8:32 PM, Doug Renwick <ve...@sasktel.net> wrote:
>>> 
>>> That myth refuses to die. I have 5 concrete tower bases with ground rods
>>> partially encased and never a worry about an exploding base.
>>> 
>>> Doug
>>> 
>>> 
>>> -Original Message-
>>> 
>>> -NEVER- encase a ground rod in concrete ... especially a tower base.
>>> 
>>> As a retired 2-way radio tech, I'm aware of two towers that had to be
>>> re-installed because of lightening strikes exploding their concrete bases.
>>> 
>>> 73!
>>> 
>>> Ken - K0PP
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ---
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Ground rods and concrete

[Rick Dettinger]

I don’t think its a myth.  In the early 1970’s, the power company I worked for 
was testing out some hollow reinforced concrete poles.  There was considerable 
concern by the line workers that the poles might be more dangerous to work on 
than wooden poles, in the event of an accident.  To check this, we installed 
one of the poles in a sub station, and wrapped a 26KV 1200 amp feeder conductor 
around the pole.  When the station breaker was closed, the pole exploded 
dramatically, with a large fireball.  The results might have something to do 
with moisture content in the concrete.  The results convinced us to only use 
the poles on transmission lines that wouldn’t be worked hot, like we did with 
distribution lines.  Of course, the power levels are much higher in lightening 
strikes.  The conduction paths should similar from encapsulated ground rods in 
a tower base to Earth.

73,
Rick  K7MW



> On Apr 17, 2017, at 8:32 PM, Doug Renwick  wrote:
> 
> That myth refuses to die. I have 5 concrete tower bases with ground rods
> partially encased and never a worry about an exploding base.
> 
> Doug 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> 
> -NEVER- encase a ground rod in concrete ... especially a tower base.
> 
> As a retired 2-way radio tech, I'm aware of two towers that had to be
> re-installed because of lightening strikes exploding their concrete bases.
> 
> 73!
> 
> Ken - K0PP
> 
> 
> 
> ---
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> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
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Re: [Elecraft] EFHW

[Rick Dettinger]

10% efficient is for a “short” end fed antenna and a ground rod or similar.
Something near a quarter wave and a typical one or two wire counterpoise is 
much better.
It doesn’t take much effort to get to 50% efficient with a quarter wave or 
longer wire, and a few short radials.
After that, there are diminishing returns for a given amount of effort.  The BC 
120 radial, half wave long ground systems are a good example.  
And, as QRP and mobile operators have shown, contacts with a 10% efficient 
antenna system do happen!
 
73,
Rick  K7MW

> On Feb 11, 2017, at 9:19 PM, Kevin - K4VD  wrote:
> 
> ​So what we are saying here is that all the local and DX QSOs we make from
> a picnic bench with an end fed or random wire thrown up in a tree and a
> short or no counterpoise doesn't really happen or, at best, is a fluke. The
> end fed is only 10% efficient (did I get that right) and most of our QRP
> signals are going to heat worms. Pretty hopeless situation I guess. ​I
> might have to just stick with the local repeater and Google Hangouts for
> communications.
> 
> Or, for those of you that are thinking the situation isn't so hopeless,
> grab your portable antenna, head out to the campsite, throw your wire up in
> the tree and I'll catch you on the air. Let's warm up the worms.
> 
> 73,
> Kev
> 
> 
> On Sat, Feb 11, 2017 at 11:54 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire  wrote:
> 
>> Ha, ha!!! Well put Wes!
>> 
>> Some mountain portables erect low "horizontal" antennas on the side of a
>> steep mountain. The result is a very low angle of radiation because, even
>> though the main lobe is "straight up" from the mountainside from the
>> antenna, the slope puts that lobe at a fairly low angle relative to the
>> earth.
>> 
>> 73, Ron AC7AC
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Wes
>> Stewart
>> Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2017 8:02 PM
>> Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] EFHW
>> 
>> It is with some reluctance that I smack this whole EFHW tarbaby, but here
>> goes.
>> Comments in no particular order:
>> 
>> 1)  A resonant antenna (even one that is self-resonant), e.g. one with a
>> non-reactive feedpoint, isn't necessarily "efficient."  A
>> quarter-wavelength monopole over lossy earth leaps to mind.
>> 
>> 2)  A non-resonant antenna isn't necessarily inefficient.  The ever
>> popular G5RV isn't resonant on the band of interest (20M) but when fed
>> appropriately, was as efficient as a resonant dipole.
>> 
>> 3)  Consider a BC band 1/2 wavelength vertical antenna.  Does the station
>> designer say, "Well, this EFHW doesn't really doesn't need much of a
>> counterpoise, so I'll just throw a 100' long wire on the ground and call it
>> good enough?"  No, he install 120 radials that are even longer than the
>> ones he would use under a 1/4 wavelength monopole.  Devoldere in "Low-Band
>> DXing, Chapter 9, Section 4.3 says: "Here comes another surprise. A
>> terrible misconception about voltage-fed verticals is that they do not
>> require either a good ground or an extensive radial system.'"  Later in the
>> same section he says, "Therefore it is even more important to have a good
>> radial system with a voltage-fed antenna such as the voltage-fed T or a λ/2
>> vertical. These verticals require longer radials to do their job
>> efficiently compared to current-fed verticals."
>> 
>> 3)  When you backpacking mountain goats say, "Hey my wire isn't a
>> vertical, it's mostly horizontal", I say, if your radio is sitting on a
>> boulder or the ground, it's a vertical and your wire-on-the-ground
>> counterpoise proves it.
>> 
>> Wes  N7WS
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On 2/11/2017 2:33 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
>>> All efficient antenna systems are "resonant" (jX=0) but the shorthand
>>> often used is "resonant" to mean "self resonant". That is true of any
>>> 1/4 wavelength long radiator (again our common shorthand is usually
>>> "1/4 wave
>>> wire") or any multiple thereof worked against ground. It is also true
>>> of any half wave length radiator or any multiple thereof. (Note that
>>> these are electrical lengths, taking into account any surroundings
>>> including the radiator itself.)
>>> 
>>> While self-resonant antennas do not present a reactive load to the
>>> source of RF power, the value of R, the resistance, may vary widely.
>>> There is nothing magic about the 50 ohm load most of our transmitters
>> are designed for.
>>> 
>>> However, a half wave radiator fed at the center presents a resistive
>>> value near 50 ohms when fed at typical heights above ground (in free
>>> space it is
>>> 75 ohms). Half wave antennas became very popular after WWII because
>>> 50-ohm coaxial feed line became abundant and cheap on the "surplus"
>>> market and Hams were taking steps to deal with needing to avoid
>>> interfering with the rapidly growing number of TV sets in nearby
>>> homes, including the Ham's own living room.
>>> 
>>> In the following 

Re: [Elecraft] 50 Ohm Load - source?

[Rick Dettinger]

Yes, you are.
Dummy loads are not fun, like nice radios.
When I built a Heathkit HW100, 45 years ago, I needed a dummy load to align the 
transmitter section.
Not having one, and having just spent all my discretionary funds on the radio, 
I used a pencil lead to make a resistor element.
I had to experiment with different drafting pencils to find the correct 
resistance.  I carefully removed the wood with a razor blade, and attached clip 
leads at the points that gave me 50 ohms.  I dunked the result in a container 
of motor oil (probably not the best choice), and finished the alignment.  It 
worked well and was a one shot deal.
Later, following instructions in a ham radio magazine, I built a dummy load 
using two copper disks and 10 resistors.  This was also installed in a quart 
can filled with oil of some kind.  I put the dummy load under my shack and ran 
coax up to my rigs.  Also worked well.  
Now, I use an Elecraft 20 watt load, and have used it for short periods of time 
at higher power to make quick measurements.  This included the alignment work 
on my K3/100.

73,
Rick Dettinger  K7MW
   








On Mar 30, 2015, at 2:43 PM, Dave Baxter wrote:

 I often wonder about people who will buy expensive (but excellent) radio's,
 then baulk at spending a few bucks, quid's or ?, on basic test kit like a
 half decent dummy load!
 
 Am I missing something?
 
 Dave G0WBX.

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Re: [Elecraft] New Product to help many K3/KX3 users

[Rick Dettinger]

Looks like its made in the same plant that also produces duck calls!

73,
Rick Dettinger  K7MW


On Mar 16, 2015, at 5:24 PM, James kvochick wrote:

 https://factualradio.wordpress.com/2015/03/16/geen-idee-engineering-companion-radio-assistant-peripheral/
  
 https://factualradio.wordpress.com/2015/03/16/geen-idee-engineering-companion-radio-assistant-peripheral/
 
 Now we’re getting some place!
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] KX-1 - cleaning up the squarewave sidetone?

[Rick Dettinger]

I have used an outboard audio filter to clean up square wave sidetones, like 
on my K1.
Worked well.
I remember when the modes came out to do this to the K2 sidetone.
However, listen to an old spark audio file.  After that, everything sounds 
good.  Spark sounds like what you might expect a 5KW damped arc to sound like 
in a receiver.
 
73,
Rick Dettinger  K7MW




On Mar 12, 2015, at 1:08 PM, J wrote:

 Thanks Phil  list-
 I may get a scope and have a look at the waveform of the ST.
 73
 Jay
 W6CJ
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil
 Wheeler
 Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2015 10:56
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX-1 - cleaning up the squarewave sidetone?
 
 Hmm .. I've never noticed that problem, J.  I'll go listen again later
 today.
 
 Phil W7OX
 
 
 On 3/12/15 10:05 AM, J wrote:
 I did not want to reinvent the wheel, and hoped some mods existed to 
 clean up the KX-1 sidetone.
 
 At times, I find it difficult to zero in on a station's 600-hz with my 
 600 hz squarewave.
 
 Has someone come up with a mod?
 
 
 
 I'm thinking that plenty of audio is available at the sidetone level 
 setting (STL), so it might be possible to make an RC filter.
 
 
 
 It looks like the sidetone enters AF amp via a 1M resistor, R15, to 
 IN1 and
 IN2
 
 
 
 Thanks
 
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] General coverage hijacks ham band

[Rick Dettinger]

Yes, they work that way.
That is why I use the memories to navigate through the ham bands.

73,
Rick Dettinger  K7MW



 
On Feb 14, 2015, at 7:01 PM, d...@lightstream.net wrote:

 I am probably doing something wrong, but I cannot find any reference to
 the following issue in the K3 manual.
 
 It seems that if one tunes to a non-ham band (general coverage) frequency
 (I used numerical direct frequency entry), the ham band closest to the
 target frequency now assumes the targeted general coverage frequency.
 
 For example, I was on 40m and wanted to check a local broadcast AM station
 at 1100 KHz. I entered 1.100 via the FREQ ENT button, and the radio
 tuned to 1100 KHz as expected. However, now when I cycle through the ham
 bands, the 160 meter slot is set to 1.100 Mhz instead of 1.8XX MHz.
 
 Is this the way it is supposed to work? It's a bit of a deterrent to use
 the KBPF3 to explore general coverage frequencies if a ham band gets
 hijacked as a result.
 
 73, Dale
 WA8SRA
 
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] getting started with QRP

[Rick Dettinger]

No need to do so, but I have used /QRP to try to snag another QRP operator 
around on  of the the QRP watering holes.
Two way QRP QSO's have been some of my nicest ham radio experiences.
We generally spend quite a bit of time discussing our equipment, that we 
probably built, and in some cases, designed.

73,
Rick Dettinger  K7MW


On Jan 4, 2015, at 12:47 PM, Jim Allen wrote:

 I've never seen the need to sign /QRP or give it away in any fashion.  If
 the other guy hears you adequately, he will respond; otherwise, what
 difference does it make?
 
 It is the flip side of the Old Timer's oft repeated advice:  When you hear
 'em, call 'em!
 
 73 de W6OGC  Jim Allen

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[Elecraft] KXPA100 connections

[Rick Dettinger]

Guess what? I need assistance!
I am attempting to connect my KX3 to my new KXPA100, and am stumped with the 
Key Line Cable shown on page 8.
This is a doubled ended RCA plug type cable.  It references fig 5 on pg 18 for 
the basic installation, (no KXPACBL).
Paragraph 6, pg 19, seems to say that the Key Line Cable goes to ACC2 on the 
KX3.  Great, except the RCA plug does not  come close to fitting the 3.5 mm 
ACC2 jack.  What am I doing wrong? 

73,
Rick Dettinger  K7MW 

 
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Re: [Elecraft] KXPA100 connections

[Rick Dettinger]

Thanks Don,

I did read the instructions wrong.  I was distracted by the idea that the 
KXPA100 would be plug and play with the companion KX3 transceiver.  Since it 
is unlikely that I will be able to find a cable with an RCA plug on one end, 
and a 2.5 mm stereo plg on the other, without tip wire, it looks like a custom 
job.
I don't know if I would have a use for the features of the KXCABLE, since I 
don't have a high power amp, a KXAT100 or a computer in my shack. 
I do appreciate the fact that it would be necessary to modify connection cables 
for unknown brand X transceivers.


73,
Rick Dettinger  K7MW









 
On Dec 15, 2014, at 3:35 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

 Rick,
 
 The manual does *not* state that an RCA plug will be used on both ends of the 
 Keyline cable.
 Yes, the KXPA100 end is an RCA plug and that is clearly shown, but the other 
 end must match the transceiver and since several types of connectors are used 
 on transceivers for KEYOUT, the KXPA100 must be ambiguous about the connector 
 on the transceiver end (i.e. the FT-817 uses a DIN connector IIRC).
 
 In the case of the KX3, a 2.5mm stereo plug is needed.  The ring contact is 
 keyline output and the shield or common conductor of the cable connects to 
 the shell.
 
 It may be easier to just order the KXPACBL than cutting your cable and wiring 
 in the 2.5mm stereo plug.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 On 12/15/2014 5:19 PM, Rick Dettinger wrote:
 Guess what? I need assistance!
 I am attempting to connect my KX3 to my new KXPA100, and am stumped with the 
 Key Line Cable shown on page 8.
 This is a doubled ended RCA plug type cable.  It references fig 5 on pg 18 
 for the basic installation, (no KXPACBL).
 Paragraph 6, pg 19, seems to say that the Key Line Cable goes to ACC2 on the 
 KX3.  Great, except the RCA plug does not  come close to fitting the 3.5 mm 
 ACC2 jack.  What am I doing wrong?
 
 73,
 Rick Dettinger  K7MW
 
 

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[Elecraft] FS: N3NZ Straight Key

[Rick Dettinger]

N3ZN Straight Key model ZN-HK.

Black base with brass uppers.

Non smoking environment. 

Like new, very little used.

Includes cord with 1/8 inch stereo plug.

Original cost $315 plus shipping.

I will sell for $275 including USPS shipping to CONUS.

Will be shipped in original packaging. 

PayPal or USPS MO.

Rick Dettinger K7MW 

k...@arrl.net

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 IF Amp Mod?

[Rick Dettinger]

Maybe not.
The Sierra has been shown on the Wilderness Radio website as out of stock for 
quite a while now.
Too bad.  It was a very versatile kit.


73,
Rick Dettinger  K7MW





On Oct 19, 2014, at 11:02 AM, Mike Morrow wrote:
 
 The...er...Sierra is the commercial version of the Sierra.  :-)
 It's still sold by Wilderness Radio.
 

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Re: [Elecraft] End Fed Half Wave

[Rick Dettinger]

I have a similar antenna.
I would use the inverted V or L configuration.  You want the center of the 
antenna as high as possible.
Mine is an inverted L, but the far end actually is about 20 feet below the 
center, which is 50 feet high.  The maximum radiation is where the current is 
greatest, a quarter wave from the far end, which has no current.  Mine works 
quite well for a single wire.  I made it a little more than a half wave at the 
lowest frequency, so I can use a remote tuner at the base for other bands.  I 
feed it against a less than great radial system for all bands, but for a half 
wave, this might not be very important.  The base is 140 feet from my shack, 
fed with coax in a conduit.  I also have a 43 foot vertical, which I can select 
by remote switch.   Except on 20 M, the inverted L usually works better.

73,
Rick  K7MW  





On Sep 22, 2014, at 2:49 PM, w7...@cox.net wrote:

 Hi All,
 
 Here's a question for the antenna gurus among the group.  It's about the best 
 way to deploy an end fed half wave antenna.
 
 First of all, I assume most would say to put the entire antenna up in the air 
 as high as possible, and in a horizontal plane.  I understand the advantage 
 of doing that.  However, what about a situation where you only have one 
 support?  My first inclination would be to deploy the antenna like a sloper, 
 with the far end at the top of the support, and the other end at, or near, 
 the rig.  I started wondering, though, about where the maximum radiation 
 occurs.  In a half wave antenna, the current max is more or less in the 
 center of the antenna.  So, would it be better to get the center of the 
 antenna as high as possible (taking advantage of the one support you might 
 have), and then maybe bending the other half back downwards, sort of in 
 inverted vee fashion?  That would be as opposed to just running the antenna 
 up in a straight line to the top of the support, thus possibly only getting 
 the center about half as high as the top of the support.
 
 Here's a more definitive description of what I am thinking about, and 
 compares to the situation I have.  I have a pole that goes up approx. 40 
 feet.  If I deploy the EFHW in sloper fashion, with one end near the ground 
 close to the rig, the center of the antenna would only be at approx. 20 feet. 
  Also, On 40 meters (the band I would be using), the pole would need to be 
 some 50+ feet from the rig.  Alternatively, what if I move the center of the 
 antenna up closer to the top of the pole, and have the rest of the antenna 
 slope back down to another tie point?  Wouldn't this be apt to work better, 
 even though I have created something similar to an inverted vee?
 
 I know a couple of RVer's who do something similar.  They have two poles in 
 use, one of which is much taller.  They deploy their antenna so that the mid 
 point of the antenna is near the top of the tallest pole, then over to 
 another shorter pole, and then back down that 2nd pole vertically--almost a 
 somewhat slanted U shape.  Their results seem to be decent, but I don't 
 know if there is a better way to do it.  Their method condenses the lateral 
 space required to deploy the antenna, thus fitting within most RV sites.  I 
 don't know exactly what this does to the impedance at the feed point, but 
 they use tuners to resolve any mismatch.  The pole I have is somewhat taller 
 than either of the ones they use.
 
 Anyway, I assume I could do the sloper approach without creating any serious 
 issues, but I'm curious about what others think of the vee approach to get 
 the antenna center higher.
 
 I appreciate any suggestions.
 
 Dave W7AQK
 
 
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[Elecraft] FS: KXPD3 paddles

[Rick Dettinger]

Paddles sold.

Thanks,
Rick
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[Elecraft] FS: KXPD3 Paddles for KX3

[Rick Dettinger]

KXPD3 paddles, in like new condition.  Non smoking environment.  
Includes all supplied hardware, instructions, wrenches, and USPS shipping to 
CONUS.
$100 Pay Pal or MO. 

73,
Rick Dettinger
k...@arrl.net

 

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Re: [Elecraft] test

[Rick Dettinger]

Thats kind of refreshing!

73,
Rick  K7MW

On May 5, 2014, at 10:32 AM, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote:

 Just checking the reflector server. (Mighty quiet!)
 
 73,
 Eric
 elecraft.com
 
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Re: [Elecraft] High quality stereo cables

[Rick Dettinger]

We could make this thread on topic by using this cable for our KX1's.      
..

73,
Rick Dettinger  K7MW



On Jan 23, 2014, at 6:37 AM, Dave Hachadorian wrote:

 Well, I'm not Jim Brown, but since you asked in a public forum,
 I'll throw in my two cents.
 
 I buy all my A/V cables from monoprice.com
 
 Their standard cables are very good, and are the way to go if
 flexibility is required.  Their premium cables are thick and
 rugged, and are a better choice for applications that don't
 require frequent movement.  Here are some Monoprice 3.5 mm stereo
 cables:
 http://www.monoprice.com/Category?c_id=102cp_id=10218
 
 As you can see, prices are very reasonable.
 
 Dave Hachadorian, K6LL
 Yuma, AZ
 
 
 
 -Original Message- From: James Robbins
 Sent: Thursday, January 23, 2014 6:34 AM
 To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] High quality stereo cables
 
 To Jim Brown,
 
 Thanks for the recommendations about brand name coax and coax
 connectors.
 
 Can you recommend brands and/or vendors for stereo cables with
 similar high quality construction?  Would be a great help.
 Many thanks.
 
 73,
 Jim
 N1JR
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Shipping experiences

[Rick Dettinger]

Sounds like Kingston Trio lyrics.

73,
Rick Dettinger  K7MW






 
 The only one to go astray was due to me typo-ing a
 digit wrong in a ZIP code.  The auto sorting routine had
 it shuttling between Los Angeles and Seattle for almost
 a month!
 
 73!
 
 Ken - K0PP

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Re: [Elecraft] Shipping a K3

[Rick Dettinger]

If you pack it, the USPS will advise when you go to the Post Office.
I think its called Priority Mail these days.
Double packing is a good idea.
I have purchased boxes from shipping supply stores.  They also have packing 
material if you haven't saved any.  USPS doesn't want any other writing on the 
boxes.  It confuses the computer.

73,
Rick Dettinger  K7MW


On Dec 30, 2013, at 9:12 PM, Gary Smith wrote:

 I'm going to be shipping my K3. Any suggestions on the most 
 affordable way considering insurance? I'll be packing it myself, 
 double boxed with good padding and am thinking USPS 1st class. 
 Haven't sent out anything pricey in years.
 
 Thanks  Happy New Year
 
 Gary
 KA1J
 
 ---
 This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus 
 protection is active.
 http://www.avast.com
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Importance of good coaxial jumpers

[Rick Dettinger]

I solder one hole and go do something else.
Another hole when everything has cooled off.  Until all holes are soldered.
Pros can't do this, but Amateurs can.
I don't want to melt the dielectric and cause a short.
The solder surfaces need to be real clean.
I use a 250 W gun.  Plenty of heat.  Bought it at a thrift store.

73,
Rick Dettinger  K7MW


On Nov 11, 2013, at 6:46 PM, Randy Farmer wrote:

 The only way to do UHF connectors right is with a big-a** soldering iron. I 
 mean a 200W IRON, not a gun. You need something with enough heat capacity to 
 heat up the entire connector body. Once you get it hot enough, the solder 
 will magically wick down into the shield with no problem at all. If you plan 
 to make PL-259s invest in a big iron and you'll never have trouble again.
 
 73...
 Randy, W8FN

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Re: [Elecraft] End fed antenna - length and SWR

[Rick Dettinger]

I scaled the 44 feet up 4 times to 176 feet to get a reasonable match on 160 
meters with my poor ground system.
Its 55 feet high with the rest sloping somewhat down to about 25 feet.
It is tuned at the base with a remote coupler.  There is 140 feet of coax 
berried from the coupler to my 3rd floor (loft) shack. 
I am happy with the performance.  
Before I built the remote antenna, I had an end fed wire with no coax tuned in 
the shack.  It was fed with a ground wire hanging down the house from the peak. 
 It worked OK on transmit, but was noisy on receive.  Getting the feed away 
from my house really knocked the noise down.

73,
Rick Dettinger  K7MW




On Oct 8, 2013, at 8:25 PM, Ariel Jacala wrote:

 My version using the same matchbox is 44 feet long and tunes well 40 - 6 
 meters and a piece of cake for the KX3. It is loud on 30m
 
 Ariel NY4G
 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and whats next from Elecraft

[Rick Dettinger]

It took about 8 years for the K3 to replace the K2.  Of course, you can still 
get a new K2, and some due.
It took about 11 years for the KX3 to replace the K1.  And, K1's are still 
available.  And still great rigs.
I didn't include the KX1, as I think of it as a niche rig, for those who want 
the lightest transceiver over other considerations, for back packing, etc.
Even if the K3 is mature, it is definitely not obsolete!
I have owned all of the kits, and have settled on the KX3, as it meets all of 
my needs.  Which are fairly limited.  Fixed and portable HF CW!  But, I 
appreciate good quality.

73,
Rick Dettinger  K7MW


 
On Aug 18, 2013, at 12:57 PM, Scott Manthe wrote:

 Wayne and Eric have repeatedly said than any K4-style improvements will be 
 retrofittable to the K3. Here is Wayne's response to a recent thread on the 
 subject: 
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Wait-For-The-K4-Direct-RF-Sampled-SDR-tp7571211p7571223.html
 
 Given the fact that the big three bring out new radios every couple of 
 years, it's understandable to wonder why there is no K4. It seems that Wayne 
 and Eric's business model doesn't include soaking people for the price of a 
 new model when suitable improvements can be made to an existing platform. To 
 me, this is a good thing. The fact that there haven't been any firmware 
 updates recently is also good thing- it means that the K3 is inching ever 
 closer to being a mature product.
 
 I don't think you'll have to worry about seeing your new K3 replaced by a K4 
 in a couple of weeks.
 
 73,
 Scott, N9AA
 
 
 On 8/18/13 3:39 PM, Trevor Dunne wrote:
 Hi All
 
 I have been reading the mail here for some time while I debate the purchase 
 of a K3 in my head. I can't help to notice the lack of subjects covering the 
 K3 and the lack of new firmware in over 4 months.
 
 
 Would if be fair to think that development has finished on the K3 and that 
 now all the accessories(amp,P3,ATU,ect) are in place, also the KX3 and 
 matching amp are out there, Have the good people in Elecraft moved on to 
 develop a new radio a K4 maybe 
 
 Nothing worse than getting something new only for it to be replaced by a 
 newer model a few weeks after getting it.
 
  Thanks
 Trevor
 EI2GLB
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K4? No, I want a KX2!

[Rick Dettinger]

My idea of a KX2 would be to rework the K2 with a factory built DDS, maybe from 
the KX3,  but the rest would be the user built K2 in a K2 box.  This could 
include general coverage.
I think many hams would like to build from parts and use their soldering irons. 
 This would be a cross between the KX1 block diagram and the K2 performance.

73,
Rick Dettinger  K7MW


  
On May 23, 2013, at 9:30 AM, Gil G. wrote:

 Hello,
 
 Personally, I'd rather see an updated KX1… Same features as the current one, 
 but SMT.
 CW only, but with the same SW listening capabilities. Four bands if fine.
 Internal 12V batteries for a full 5W, or more… Built-in charger...
 It would be of course smaller, and should be waterproof. Now that would be 
 something!
 
 Gil.
 --
 PGP Key: http://keskydee.com/gil.asc
 
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Re: [Elecraft] KXPA100 AMP and KXAT100 ATU pics and info

[Rick Dettinger]

Morse Express sells SO-239 to BNC Conversion Kits.  They are just metal plates 
the same size as the SO-239 jacks.  They have the same 4 holes and are punched 
for an included BNC panel jack.
I have used them to convert my non Elecraft QRP kits and OHR watt meter.  But, 
I had thought that BNC was only for QRP power levels.  Elecraft uses SO-239 for 
their 100 watt kits that I have bought.

73,
Rick Dettinger  K7MW






On Apr 25, 2013, at 8:09 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

 They are my favorite for anything under 1000 watts on HF too. Of course
 there are screw-on adapters for the SO-239 UHF connectors. 
 
 73 Ron AC7AC
 

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Re: [Elecraft] Chinese Broadcast on 18 .180.mhz

[Rick Dettinger]

Its not on the emergency frequencies below.  These are from the CW list.

 Beijing time at 8:02 on the April 20, 2013, Ya'an City, Sichuan Province, 
 Lushan County (latitude 30.3, longitude 103.0) 7.0 earthquake occurred
 
 Chinese amateur radio emergency communications frequency
 7.030 + / - 5KHz
 14.100 + / - 10KHz
 21.200 + / - 10KHz
 28.200 + / - 10KHz
 50.100 + / - 10KHz
 144.100 + / - 10KHz
 145.000 + / - 10KHz
 433.000 + / - 10KHz
 433.500 + / - 10KHz
 Please do not operating at frequencies above ...
  




 Does the broadcast have anything to do with the large earthquake they had 
 yesterday?
Kevin.  KD5ONS
 
 
 On 4/20/2013 9:51 AM, Bob-AC2FA wrote:

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Re: [Elecraft] Felt washer source?

[Rick Dettinger]

Make sure that these washers are not chemically treated.  I think some are.  
This is done to neutralize battery corrosion.
Might not be what you want on electronic equipment. 

73,
Rick Dettinger  K7MW




On Apr 14, 2013, at 7:12 AM, Joel Black wrote:

 You can get felt washers at Walmart. Go to the automotive batteries. I don't 
 know if the hole would be too big or not, but you can try it and see.
 
 73,
 Joel - W4JBB
 
 On 4/14/13 8:42 AM, Barry N1EU wrote:
 I know this was discussed WAY back when in the earlier days of the K3.
  I need a felt washer, the type that sits between the vfo tuning knob
 and the front panel.  Can anyone suggest a local source?
 
 Thanks  73, Barry N1EU
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[Elecraft] OT: Energy cells (batteries)

[Rick Dettinger]

I have experienced problems with corrosion (white deposits) in battery 
compartments of electrical gear.  This has been with AA alkaline cells.
My question is, would I have less problems using Lithium (Energizer Ultimate) 
cells.  I know that I should probably remove the cells in equipment that is not 
used on a regular basis, but I don't always bother or remember.  I just 
replaced the cells in my GPS receiver, and found quite a bit of corrosion.   I 
cleaned it up with baking soda and water, and it looks good.  Device still 
works fine.  
Thanks for any information on this subject.  

73,
Rick Dettinger  K7MW
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Re: [Elecraft] OT - Titanic II 2016 ...and CW?

[Rick Dettinger]

Actually, it was spark that played a role, and we probably won't hear that from 
the Titanic II, since it hasn't been legal on the air since 1938.  
CW was still at least a decade off, though the date seems to be elusive.  
Spark was still the mode used in 1920 for ships at sea, as chronicled in the 
novel The Nymph and the Lamp, by Thomas Raddall, a good read.   
And, yes, it would be nice if Morse Code could be heard from the Titanic II, in 
any mode.

73,
Rick Dettinger  K7MW

On Mar 2, 2013, at 4:28 PM, stan levandowski wrote:

 I heard about Titanic II on CNN this evening.  I don't think there will be 
 any hams operating from the radio room in today's post-911 days of paranoia 
 about security but I sure do hope that between now and 2016, those 
 DXpedition- caliber hams with influence and the $$$ will approach the right 
 people to start talks on putting some kind of plan in place that acknowledges 
 the full historical account of the Titanic including the Radio Act of 1912 
 that followed the disaster.  CW played a role and who better to celebrate 
 that around the world than we hams!  What great publicity this could be for 
 amateur radio, CW, and the sponsors of such an effort.  73, Stan WB2LQF
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT-500 Antenna Tuner question

[Rick Dettinger]

In Washington State, a few decades ago, we had problems with the State putting 
spaces, and even dashes, in Ham Call license plates.
It took persistence to get them to understand that there are no spaces or 
dashes in ham calls.  
In related news, I worked a ham today on CW, and was told that he was using a 
KX2.  I asked for a repeat and he confirmed a KX2.  I replied that I understood 
he said a KX2, without getting any correction from him.  Are you guys doing a 
new rig Beta test that I haven't heard about?  This is exciting.  A KX2 might 
be just the rig for me! 
But, my KX3 is doing everything I could ask for in a rig the size of a medium 
paperback.  Maybe I will wait on the KX2!

73,
Rick Dettinger  K7MW

On Feb 27, 2013, at 9:28 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

 Mot an answer, but just a reminder.  Elecraft does not use dashes in their 
 product designations (the only exceptions are the N-Gen and the 2T-Gen mini 
 kits).
 
 Yes, we understand when one writes KAT-500, but the real designation is 
 KAT500 (no dash).
 Leave the 'dash designation' to the other manufacturers.  Often that is used 
 to designate an upgrade to an existing product.  With Elecraft gear, the 
 equipment can be upgraded with firmware changes and mod kits to the latest 
 level, hence no dash designations' are required.  For instance, there will 
 not be a KAT501 from Elecraft unless the policy changes drastically.
 
 As another example, the K3 is not an upgrade for the K2 - it is an entirely 
 different product design.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 with external coupler

[Rick Dettinger]

Rick,
I use my new KX3 with a 200 watt SGC 230 tuner.  The tuner is remotely mounted 
at the base of my 176 foot inverted L antenna.  The tuner is 140 feet of 
underground co-ax from my shack. The tuner requires 3 watts to get a tune, but, 
under some conditions of mis match, that takes as much as 10 watts to get the 3 
watts at the tuner.  Once tuned, I can lock the tuner and use it at QRP levels. 
 It seems to work well, but I have only used it on a few bands so far.  I am 
ordering the built in tuner for portable operations.  One of the things I like 
about my KX3 is its self contained nature.  That is also why I have ordered the 
paddles.  And, I have the internal NiMH cells and charger.  All that's 
necessary to set up is to attach some kind of antenna, and I will be good to 
go.  

73,
Rick Dettinger  K7MW


On Feb 7, 2013, at 3:21 PM, Rick Robinson wrote:

 I am thinking of ordering the KX3 tonight. I will most likely order it with
 all accys. I have looked through the manual and some archives and would
 like to verify one thing and ask about another.
 First is the built in ATU. It looks like it can be set to bypass even if
 the atu is instaled. Am I correct in this assumption ? The other is ...has
 anyone used the KX3 with a coupler such as the SGC
 models. I really enjoy using the SGC as my antennas at home are limited and
 for portable use it makes for a easy setup. Thanks in advance...W8ZT
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[Elecraft] KX3 Kit Builder Alert #1: Battery holder attachment screws

[Rick Dettinger]

I experienced a hot cell when I loaded Lithium cells into my new KX3 kit.  I 
thought that it might have been caused by the cell shorting at the spring.  I 
removed the cells and used my station supply until I could get some 
rechargeable cells.  
I saw the subject Alert and checked my hold down screws and found that they 
did stand proud and protrude above the base.  I thought that the screws were 
too long, but when I removed them, I noticed that the holes in the battery 
holder were not countersunk for the flat head screws, and this was what was 
keeping the screw heads from being flush with the holder.  The heads is quite 
sharp, and may have been cutting into the cells.  I also noticed that I had 
difficulty getting the two halves of the radio to come together completely .  I 
thought that the cells were over size, but now I think that they weren't lying 
against the base of the holder.  I am thinking that I should countersink the 
holes, but wanted to check what others had experienced.

Thanks,
Rick Dettinger  K7MW 
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[Elecraft] Builder's Alert #1 KX3 Battery Holder screw length

[Rick Dettinger]

Don,
Thanks for the response.
My battery holder seems to be made of a rather hard plastic.  I am sure that I 
would strip the screw threads, or, much worse, the threaded inserts in the 
circuit board, if I tried to seat the screws without countersinking the holes.
I used a 5/32 drill bit to countersink the holes, by hand, until I got a flush 
fit with the flat head screws.  
I have installed my new NiMH cells, and everything seems to be working well.
The tip of the screwdriver didn't seem to make any depression in the plastic.


73,
Rick Dettinger  K7MW

Rick,

The plastic of the battery holders is normally soft enough that you 
should be able to drive the heads of the proper length screws into the 
plastic. Since you will have to apply a bit of extra torque, make 
certain you have a #1 Phillips screwdriver with a good tip to prevent 
the screwdriver from camming out of the screwhead. Countersinking the 
holes with the tip of the Phillips driver is certanly an alternative.

If there is any doubt about the screw length, I would suggest you obtain 
4 of the proper length screws from Elecraft.
Elecraft has tightened up on the length tolerance for those screws with 
the vendor, so the new screws may be the best answer.

73,
Don W3FPR


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Re: [Elecraft] UPS has lost my KX3 :-(

[Rick Dettinger]

I'm  still waiting for my box of clothes!

73,
Rick Dettinger  K7MW




On Jul 27, 2012, at 1:15 PM, stan levandowski wrote:

 This thread caused me to check up on my own expected shipment of a new 
 LNRPrecision (PAREndFez) 40/20/10 dipole I've been waiting for.
 
 I went to the tracking website and look at what I found:
 
 Poughkeepsie, NY, United States  07/27/2012  8:25 A.M.  Transportation 
 accident occurred.
 
 Can you believe this!!!
 
 73, Stan WB2LQF
 
 
 On Fri, Jul 27, 2012 at 3:14 PM, Wes Stewart wrote:
 
 Lately UPS has not been very, very good...
 
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Re: [Elecraft] KX-3 - Thank you Elecraft for dropping over 10lbs off my pack weight

[Rick Dettinger]

In the 1950's, intrepid hams like Wes Hayward, W7ZOI, used to haul tube gear up 
mountains!
These rigs would have had interesting power requirements; several heavy 
batteries.  We have it pretty good today, with our K1's and a small AA battery 
pack.  

73,
Rick Dettinger   K7MW



On Jul 25, 2012, at 10:22 PM, Jessie Oberreuter wrote:

 
  I can't believe you lugged an 857 on a hike! Before the KX3, if you 
 really wanted 5-10 watts of SSB on a hike, it was hard to go wrong with 
 one of MFJ's adventure radios!  'Course, I try to limit my average pack 
 weight to 30lbs :).
 
   - kb7psg
 

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Re: [Elecraft] JT65 requirements, and a possible external reference-locking option for the KX3

[Rick Dettinger]

Sounds like a K4 and a KX4!

73,
Rick  K7MW



On Jul 17, 2012, at 5:17 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:

 If we took this route, we'd have three categories of KX3 users: (a)  
 wants the ultimate in stability but doesn't need 2 meters; (b) wants 2  
 meter coverage and is OK with nominal stability; (c) curses me for  
 making the KX3 too small :)
 
 Wayne
 
 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 HEAVY Knobs ???

[Rick Dettinger]

In my case, I don't like the heavier knobs so that I can spin them.  I  
don't think that I have done that since the mid 1950's, when we got  
chased out of CG Electronics in Tacoma for seeing who could spin the  
slide rule knobs hard enough to move the pointer all the way across  
the dial!  Instead, I like the feel of the heavier knobs.  It is  
easier to stop at just the right spot, and when the fingers move away  
from the knob it is more likely not to move.  A moment of inertia  
thing.  Probably, the more finger coordination, the less this  
matters.  But, I did find that it was easier to tune my K1 with 150  
Khz tuning range when I installed a K2 knob, reamed to 1/4 inch shaft  
size.

  73,
Rick Dettinger  K7MW





On May 25, 2012, at 6:21 AM, Jim Miller KG0KP wrote:

 WHY?  Set your knobs for very little or no drag at all.  Why replace  
 them
 with non-standard knobs so you can spin them?  Mine spin very well  
 when
 needed.  I turn my knobs with one finger riding on the outside edge  
 of the
 knob and tuning does not place virtually any pressure on the knob at  
 all.
 This requires that there is no turning friction on the rotation of  
 the knob.
 I set my knobs that way when I built my radio.  I don't need heavy  
 knobs to
 spin them.

 What is it I don't understand about the problem that required heavy  
 knobs?
 I have never understood the heavy knob threads.

 73, de Jim KG0KP


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Re: [Elecraft] HEAVY KNOBS??

[Rick Dettinger]

Great!  That should be good for about a 1 kilogram knob.  Above that,  
we might need a double set of tapered roller bearings.

73,
Rick  K7MW


On May 27, 2012, at 12:18 PM, Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft wrote:

 Ron is incorrect. The K3 has a ball bearing bushing in its VFO A and  
 B encoders.

 73,
 Eric
 www.elecraft.com
 _..._


 On May 27, 2012, at 11:55 AM, Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz wrote:

 I wonder if anyone has studied the long-term effects on the encoder  
 bushings
 and shafts that must support those knobs? AFAIK, it's just a simple  
 bushing
 - no ball or roller bearing races - so all of the wear is on the  
 lower side
 of the bushing.

 Ron AC7AC
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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna for a KX1

[Rick Dettinger]

Sometimes, I have had to reposition my radials to get a good match on  
some bands.  I think that the KX1 tuner has the least matching range  
of all the Elecraft rigs, and you may need to experiment a little.

73,
Rick   K7MW



On May 4, 2012, at 8:45 PM, ka2zey wrote:

 I have tried the suggested lengths given for KX1. I have a 24' wire  
 running
 vertical up about 22' (the rest comes down to the KX1) and 2 16'  
 radials
 connected to the black connector on the Poloma Banana plug. I am  
 able to get
 a good SWR reading on 10 and 20 (still no contacts) but 40 is  
 nothing below
 4:1. Am I doing something wrong?

 Another user posted that they were using 42' with a 1/4 wave radial  
 for each
 band.

 thanks,
 D

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 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Antenna-for-a-KX1-tp5196274p7529252.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Would a matching speaker be nice??

[Rick Dettinger]

I suspect so, as some of us spent over $100 on a tuning knob!

73,
Rick Dettinger  K7MW




 I would postulate that there are many folks who would gladly shell out
 $150 or more for a matching speaker.

 73,
 Doug, W7KF
 http://www.w7kf.com


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[Elecraft] FS: K1-4 SOLD

[Rick Dettinger]

My K1-4 has been sold.

Thanks,
Rick  K7MW
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[Elecraft] K1-4 FS - Price reduced

[Rick Dettinger]

I am selling my K1-4 SN 2078. The bands are 40, 30, 20 15 M. The VFO  
bandspread is 150 Khz. The K1 is in like new condition and has been  
kept in my shack in a non smoking environment. It works as specified  
by Elecraft. It is the second K1 that I have built and uses toroids by  
the Toroid Guy, AA3WF. Included is the KNB1, KAT1, KTS1 and the back  
light. All documentation is included. Current cost is $610 plus  
shipping. I will sell for $425, including shipping to CONUS. Paypal or  
MO.  PRICE REDUCTION: New price: $395.



Thanks,

Rick Dettinger K7MW


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Re: [Elecraft] Current K3 serial numbers?

[Rick Dettinger]

Hi Doug,


I think I have seen numbers in the over 6K range reported.  When the  
K3 first came out, I was speculating about when the K3 would pass up  
the K2 numbers, and I think that may have happened.  Now, we can think  
in terms of when the KX3 numbers will surpass the K3 numbers.

73,
Rick  K7MW




On Mar 26, 2012, at 4:41 PM, Doug Shields wrote:

 Hello everyone,

I am curious what are some recent K3 serial numbers?  I am thinking
 about purchasing a very slightly used K3 and I was curious how long  
 it has
 been out.  Anyone receive a new K3 recently that might share a serial
 number?  Thanks.



 Doug  W4DAS

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Re: [Elecraft] OT-old vs. new 6L6 to K3

[Rick Dettinger]

I think that Lyle, KK7P, will probably want to get to work on that  
right away!:-)

73,
Rick   K7MW



 I also miss the days when CW signals were distinctive.  Nowadays, I
 actually seek out QSOs with hams with chirpy or hummy CW notes, since
 it often means unusual DX, or someone with a good story to tell.  It
 would be interesting if we had the option in modern rigs to dirty up
 our transmitted CW note.

 73,
 Andy, N2CN

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[Elecraft] FS: K1-4

[Rick Dettinger]

I am selling my K1-4 SN 2078.  The K1 is in like new condition and has  
been kept in my shack in a non smoking environment.  It works as  
specified by Elecraft. It is the second K1 that I have built and uses  
toroids by the Toroid Guy, AA3WF.  Included is the KNB1, KAT1, KTS1  
and the back light.  Current cost is $610 plus shipping.  I will sell  
for $425, including shipping to CONUS.  Paypal or MO.

Thanks,

Rick Dettinger  K7MW
k...@arrl.net



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Re: [Elecraft] Make the Feet Stickier

[Rick Dettinger]

There was discussion earlier about advantages of a KX3 v a K3.  Even  
though the KX3 is much lighter, it shouldn't slide when pressing  
buttons, since it is mostly a vertical press.  I will, however, need  
to wait until I acquire one to verify the advantage.


73,
Rick   K7MW






 Perhaps a firmware enhancement to adjust the weighting...

 73,
 Drew
 AF2Z


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Re: [Elecraft] OCF antennas

[Rick Dettinger]

Probably the most elegant solution is to actually change the physical  
length of the element(s).  Mike, KK5F, does that with jumpers on his  
portable dipole, and SteppIR does it by spooling up the un-wanted  
portion of the element.  There was a design in QST that used air  
pressure to operate relays that accomplished the same thing.  Maybe,  
this could also be done with relays powered by the signal.

73,
Rick  K7MW



 A FAR better solution, if we can do it, is resonant antennas for each
 band, well choked.  If you're limited on space that can be done with  
 fan
 dipoles or traps or loading coils.

 73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] Can't we move on

[Rick Dettinger]

Don't forget the custom knobs!

73,
Rick  K7MW



 On Wed, 22 Feb 2012 14:32:38 + k.alexan...@rogers.com writes:
 I think we're due for a repeat of the endless thread on soldering
 irons, aren't we?  :-)

 73,

 Ken
 VE3HLS



 No

 No its not that

 which is the best mike to use with my K3 and do I have to change the
 equalizers settings
 best power supply
 best color coax
 ( black or gray )
 is a 5 to 1 swr OK
 why cant you stack the K3 on top of the
 KPA 500

 or'

 do I have to put my antenna up in the air

 HAR !

 its all a lot of fun

 Bob K3DJC
 
 53 Year Old Mom Looks 33
 The Stunning Results of Her Wrinkle Trick Has Botox Doctors Worried
 http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4f451d9fe73234263fm03vuc
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Display LEDs

[Rick Dettinger]

I think that mil is short for milli inch, which is really mixing  
systems.
I think that power folks do even worse.  Wires larger than 4/0 are  
given in circular mils, or cm.  When I started with a power company 42  
years ago, one thousand circular mils was MCM, where the M was from  
Roman Numerals for thousand.  That was confusing, as it could also  
refer to Mega, so the M was changed to K for Kilo, so we had Kcmils.

73,
Rick  K7MW  (not megawatts)


On Jan 2, 2012, at 9:20 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

 Unfortunately, one has to be cautious of common technical slang in  
 an
 international community.  Yes, common in US machinist's talk is for a
 'mil' to equal 0.001 inch.  I am not certain of the origin and even
 though I looked it up at Wikipedia, I still don't have any answer to  
 why
 'thou' is equal to 'mil' (even though I use and understand that unit
 myself).

 73,
 Don W3FPR

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Re: [Elecraft] Info on whip antenna shown in KX3 photo

[Rick Dettinger]

I am wondering if this type of whip antenna is entirely supported by  
the BNC antenna connector?  It seems like that would put an unfair  
strain on the poor little jack!
Also, it would be interesting to know the lowest band that you have  
had successful contacts on.  The concept of a totally self contained  
HF rig is one that I have long been interested in.  But, I never  
really thought that it could be done due to antenna considerations.   
Someone brought up the question of the bolt on paddles being worth the  
price.  I think that the answer is yes, since that is part of the  
station integration.


73,
Rick  K7MW



On Dec 28, 2011, at 12:25 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:

 We've had some questions about the whip antenna shown in the KX3 data-
 sheet photo. It's a Maldol AH-C14 20-meter loading coil and AH-R
 telescoping whip. Total length is about 48 inches.

 I've made QSOs of up to 3000 miles using this type of whip, handheld,
 while walking with the KX1 and dragging a 13' counterpoise wire. It's
 a very compact emergency antenna, with two parts that disassemble and
 have a max length of just over 7.

 That said, I strongly recommend using longer whips for the HF bands
 whenever possible. I found that just increasing the length of this
 whip by about 1' made a noticeable difference in signal strength on
 both RX and TX.

 I'm still searching for the perfect stealth whip for lightweight
 hand-held use. What I'd like is a nearly invisible antenna that's 6 to
 7 feet long, self-supporting but able to survive collisions with
 trees, and either telescopes or rolls up to less than 8 long. It
 should cover 40-6 meters, preferably with the aid of the internal ATU
 in the radio so there's no need to change taps or elements while
 walking.

 73,
 Wayne
 N6KR

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[Elecraft] KX3 whip antenna and paddle

[Rick Dettinger]

I tried responding to the post that Wayne sent on the KX3 whip  
antenna, and it bounced, so I am sending a new post.

I am wondering if this type of whip antenna is entirely supported by  
the BNC antenna connector?  It seems like that would put an unfair  
strain on the poor little jack!
Also, it would be interesting to know the lowest band that you have  
had successful contacts on.  The concept of a totally self contained  
HF rig is one that I have long been interested in.  But, I never  
really thought that it could be done, due to antenna considerations.   
Someone brought up the question of the bolt on paddles being worth the  
price.  I think that the answer is yes, since that is part of the  
station integration, though it looks like the KX3 might easily accept  
a home brew paddle or an adaption of a commercial one.  I haven't been  
able to do that with my K1, due to the jack being located on the rear  
panel.
I am looking forward to seeing typical measurements of the rig  
performance, either by Elecraft or others.

73,
Rick  K7MW



On Dec 28, 2011, at 12:25 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:

 We've had some questions about the whip antenna shown in the KX3 data-
 sheet photo. It's a Maldol AH-C14 20-meter loading coil and AH-R
 telescoping whip. Total length is about 48 inches.

 I've made QSOs of up to 3000 miles using this type of whip, handheld,
 while walking with the KX1 and dragging a 13' counterpoise wire. It's
 a very compact emergency antenna, with two parts that disassemble and
 have a max length of just over 7.


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[Elecraft] KX3 and general coverage on receive

[Rick Dettinger]

I thought that I had seen that the KX3 would have an optional general  
coverage filter board.  This is not shown with the other options.  Was  
I wrong?  Or is this something for the future?

Thanks,
Rick  K7MW


  
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 - ...and a long wire inverted L

[Rick Dettinger]

I moved my inverted L, a 176 foot long, 55 foot high wire in the  
trees, from my shack to a post with an SGC 230 tuner about 100 feet  
away from the shack.  The noise level on receive went down about 3 S  
units.  I live in a quiet, rural location, and, as a side benefit, the  
antenna is no longer visible.  Its located just into a wooded area and  
the neighbors and XYL are happy, too.  Only problem is, with a total  
of 140 feet of coax, it requires more than QRP power to tune, on some  
bands.  The SGC 230 requires 3 watts, but the loses on an untuned line  
are great enough that I can't use my K1 on 15 meters.  The KX3 should  
have enough power to tune on all bands.
Another possibility would be to use a remotely tuned network for each  
band to get the SWR close, and do the final tuning in the shack.

73,
Rick Dettinger   K7MW






 I have an inverted L myself, and have often thought of adding the  
 SGC230 to
 allow me to have a feed point farther from the 'shack'.


 73,

 Ron AC7AC


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Re: [Elecraft] solder / lamp

[Rick Dettinger]

OptiVisors also restrict peripheral vision.  Keep that in mine while  
reaching for the hot soldering iron.  I had to interrupt work on a kit  
for a trip to the emergency room!  I thought that I knew just where to  
reach. I was a little off.

73,
Rick   K7MW



On Dec 9, 2011, at 10:07 AM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

 I've got #4 lenses in my OptiVisor. Since it is designed to wear it  
 over my
 normal reading glasses I can change the magnification by taking my  
 reading
 glasses off, but seldom do.

 In addition to Hamfests, you can find Optivisors at most hobby and  
 crafts
 stores.

 Ron AC7AC

 -Original Message-
 Choose the magnfication carefully - some powers require that you  
 place the
 soldering iron at your nose - not a comfortable situation. Choose
 carefully, and try several different diopters at a hamfest (if you are
 able) before making a decision about which is best for you.

 73,
 Don W3FPR


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Re: [Elecraft] My new KPA500

[Rick Dettinger]

Do they charge for storage?  ;-)

73,
Rick Dettinger,  K7MW



 They are living up to their name, my KPA500 has been sitting
 in UK customs for a week with no sign of movement and Parcel Farce
 claim there is nothing they can do to speed things up and it's nothing
 to do with them (customs say it is, according to their web site)!

 Dave, G4AON
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Re: [Elecraft] AC Pole Interference

[Rick Dettinger]

For 36 years, I worked as a pole engineer for a large municipal  
electric utility.  When I was new at the job, my boss got a call from  
a concerned citizen.  He was told that a young feller (that was 1969)  
driving a city car was banging on poles with an ax and drilling holes  
near the ground.  My boss said good!  Meant that I wasn't down at  
the Tug Tavern getting rehydrated!  We were taught to sound'  the  
poles and listen for for the pole to ring.  Rot in the upper  
sections of the pole doesn't support vibrations and has a dead sound.   
And we drilled into the rot zone just below the ground line with 18  
inch bell hanger bits.  This is definitely a hard hat zone, but I  
never had anything other than old bird dropping dust and wood flakes  
rain down on me!  I learned to step back and not look up after  
delivering a good blow with the back side of my ax.
A lot of cyclic noise from poles actually comes from defective street  
lights.  They make noise when they start up, and some lights cycle off  
and on every few minutes.  This can be quite strong for several blocks.
In the old days, we had two technicians with a well equipped van to  
locate radio noise.  Their jobs got eliminated in budget cuts.   
Complaints were handled on a hit and miss basis after that by  
employees with little training and equipment.

73,
Rick Dettinger  K7MW








 I agree. There's also the matter of HOW you whack the pole.  Many  
 years
 ago, I spent time on a service bench fixing things, and later spent  
 time
 doing field service.  Banging on things can be a good way to find
 intermittent problems, but HOW and WHERE you choose to do your banging
 can be a bit of an art.

 73, Jim K9YC












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Re: [Elecraft] AC Pole Interference

[Rick Dettinger]

There were persistent rumors that some of our lineman intentionally  
left a few of the hot line clamps loose, to enhance the overtime pay  
when the wind blew hard, like last night in western Washington!

73,
Rick  K7MW



On Nov 22, 2011, at 10:45 AM, Milt -- N5IA wrote:

 Poor connection in hot line clamps used for taps off a main line or  
 for equipment connections, etc. are notorious for causing RF noise  
 as well as creating fires and shock hazards in situations like Tom  
 mentions.

 Hot line clamps are used where it is not cost effective to install  
 disconnect switches.

 The older hot line clamps did not have spring loading, and in time,  
 with wind vibration, the clamps had a tendency to loosen.

 Three things have been done to mitigate this problem of burning a  
 tensioned conductor in two.

 1.  Hot line clamps now have spring loading.

 2.  Hot line clamps typically have a dab of oxide inhibitor in the  
 mouth of the clamp as it comes from the factory.

 3.  Most utilities crimp install a Saddle loop on the conductor,  
 and then connect the hot line clamp to the saddle.  Then, if the hot  
 line clamp connection fails it only burns the saddle loop, and not  
 the tensioned conductor.

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Re: [Elecraft] US 60 Meter Band Changes Approved by FCC - CW Issues

[Rick Dettinger]

I am wondering what restrictions are placed on frequency accuracy?   
Would simple QRP rigs like the Sierra or maybe a modified K1 be  
suitable for operation on the 60 meter band?  We are probably talking  
about less that 200 Hz. deviation from the specified center frequency.
Also, I don't think that the FCC engineers have randomly monitored any  
ham frequencies for at least two decades.  We are now self policing.

73,
Rick Dettinger   K7MW




On Nov 19, 2011, at 12:55 PM, Sandy wrote:

 The CW signal must be radiated on the center frequency.  This won't  
 make ANY
 difference except that you will have two memory settings for the same
 channel.  One for SSB and data  and RTTY modes, and one for CW mode  
 which
 will simply occupy 10 memory slots.  If the FCC engineers want to  
 hear a 1.5
 khz tone, that's THEIR problem, not ours.  Maybe there will be some  
 simple
 simon type doing any monitoring and he will have a reference  
 frequency of
 1500 hz. plus or minus what ever the tolerances are in PPM.  As I  
 said
 this ISN'T OUR WORRY.

 Will be nice to have a CW place to go that will be unmolested by
 contesters on weekends!

 When is this supposed to appear in the Federal Register anybody know?

 73,

 Sandy W5TVW

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[Elecraft] FS: Alberto Frattini Pro Bug

[Rick Dettinger]

Bug has been sold.

Thanks,

Rick  K7MW
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[Elecraft] FS: Alberto Frattini Pro Bug

[Rick Dettinger]

I am selling my Alberto Frattini Pro Bug that I have had for about 18  
months.  This bug has been little used and has been kept covered on my  
desk in a no smoking environment.  This is the all brass bug.   
Original cost was $580 including shipping, with a 90 day wait.  I will  
sell for $395 shipped to CONUS in the original shipping box with the  
Styrofoam protective blocks that came with the key.  The key is in  
like new condition, with no scratches or other marks.  The serial  
number is 0394.  The fingerpieces are the large red ones and the hex  
wrench is included to install them.  Paypal or money order please.   
Works great with K3!

Thanks,
Rick Dettinger
K7MW in La Conner,  WA.
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 dimensions?

[Rick Dettinger]

On this side of the State we have the opposite problem.  Too many  
trees.  Its often hard to get a line over one tree without getting a  
hang up in another.  This is true in the mountains as well as my back  
yard!

73,
Rick Dettinger   K7MW
Mount Vernon,  Wa.


On Oct 21, 2011, at 8:09 AM, Dave KK7SS wrote:

 Wayne wrote:
 I usually carry 1 oz. of #26 antenna wire and a 1-oz.
 fishing weight to get the wire into a tree

 This part of WA state is famous for having the highest tree-less  
 mountains/trees in the USA  :(
 It was part of the sea-bed of the prehistoric lake that covered NW  
 USA.
 If there's a tree on it... someone planted it :) And there's not  
 many of those open to the public. !

 So... BYO poles !
 I have an ATX Walkabout and a very old MP1.

 --
 Dave G  KK7SS
 Richland, WA

 PS We also have lots of tumbleweed covered desert!
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Re: [Elecraft] question about Elecraft receivers

[Rick Dettinger]

There are some exceptions like communication towers where it is known  
in advance that they will receive multiple hits over the years, and  
need to be engineered to survive.  And I can't even think about what  
it must have been like in a fire lookout tower during a storm.  I have  
seen the rods on each corner of the towers in the mountains of western  
Washington and the #4/0 copper stapled to the rock in the vicinity.  I  
understand that the lookout occupants had a special stool with glass  
legs that they sat on, feet off the floor, until the storm passed.   
Lightening is pretty much ignored in the lowlands of western  
Washington, but the Cascade Range is a different matter.  And, since  
the lookout towers were usually built on bare rock , ground is poorly  
defined.

73,
Rick Dettinger   K7MW





 A direct strike does pretty much what it wants to regardless of what
 prevention you have in.

 73, Guy

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 - ground wire between the AC earth and RF output socket

[Rick Dettinger]

A power supply transformer can't be considered to be totally isolating  
for safety purposes unless there is a shield between the primary and  
the secondary that is grounded to the primary.  Some marine shore  
power isolating transformers have this shield, but they are quite  
expensive and not usually used.  Without the shield, there is a  
possibility for an internal short that would tie the secondary  
directly into the AC mains.  Thus, the rig that is powered by the  
supply needs to be grounded to the AC ground system.

73,

Rick Dettinger   K7MW





 I have not seen the manual mentioned in this thread, and
 I may be unclear regarding this, but as all ham radios derive power  
 from
 their separate power supply, isn't the switch-mode type isolated?

 then the required green wire in the AC line should be tied to the
 power supply, not the radio.

 Please correct me if I'm wrong.

 72
 Ron, wb1hga
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 praise

[Rick Dettinger]

You can take my K1 when you pry it from my cold, dead fingers!


73,
Rick Dettinger   K7MW




 I hope to have a KX3 someday, but nothing would ever make me
 get rid of my K1 except the eternal dirt nap. :-) [That would
 make a great advertising quote from a satisfied customer.]

 Mike / KK5F

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[Elecraft] KX3 AF/RF gain control

[Rick Dettinger]

In the photo of the KX3, the gain control is labeled AF/RF.  Since  
this is not a concentric control, it must adjust the gain at both  
stages with one knob.  I am wondering if we will be able to change the  
balance of the effect that this control has on the two stages.  With  
superhet designs, my thinking has always been to set the AF control to  
match the requirements of the speaker or headphones and use the RF  
control to adjust for changes in signal strength, but I have no  
experience with DC radios.  The KX3 seems to be a very big step up in  
the design of DC radios, so I would like to see what others think on  
this subject.

73,
Rick Dettinger   K7MW


  
  
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 AF/RF gain control

[Rick Dettinger]

Tap and Hold.  After 11 years with Elecraft radios, I might have  
figured that one out!

73,
Rick   K7MW




On Aug 23, 2011, at 7:18 AM, Lyle Johnson wrote:

 Rick,

 You tap to toggle the control between RF Gain and AF Gain.

 73,

 Lyle KK7P

 In the photo of the KX3, the gain control is labeled AF/RF.  Since
 this is not a concentric control, it must adjust the gain at both
 stages with one knob...

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Re: [Elecraft] A modest proposal...

[Rick Dettinger]

It should be possible to just treat them like any other option, such  
as filters or tuners.  They would need a part number.
If a customer wants one, they would order and pay for it.  If not,  
they would not have to buy for something that they didn't need.  In my  
case, I would need them, as I don't have a computer in my shack.

73,
Rick Dettinger   K7MW






 Meanwhile, I'll ask Lisa and Eric if there's a practical way for us to
 make printed manuals optional.

 73,
 Wayne
 N6KR


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[Elecraft] FS: K3/100

[Rick Dettinger]

I am selling my K3/100 SN 556. The rig is like new and little used in  
non smoking home shack only. Options include the KBPF3 General  
Coverage Module, and three filters, the KFL3A-500, KFL3A-1.0K and the  
KFL3A-6K. Current kit price with options is $2440 plus shipping. I  
will sell for $1700, including ground shipping to CONUS. PayPal or  
MO.  I will consider selling rig with out any or all of the options.

  73, Rick Dettinger K7MW
k7mw at arrl.net

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[Elecraft] K3 FS

[Rick Dettinger]

The K3 has been sold.
Thanks,
Rick   K7MW
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Re: [Elecraft] Looking for miniature 14-V power supply for travel use

[Rick Dettinger]

Well, Chief Engineer Wayne, sounds to me like a good idea for a mini  
kit !

73,
Rick Dettinger   K7MW




On Jul 4, 2011, at 2:23 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:

 I'm going to take a KX3 with me on vacation this summer, and I like to
 travel light. I'll have internal batteries for field operation, but
 for indoor use, I'm hoping to find a miniature power supply that meets
 these criteria:

 - very small (say 4 x 3 x 1 inches)
 - light weight (less than 1 lb)
 - 2 A min. peak output current
 - 13 to 14 VDC output voltage
 - input AC voltage range of 100-130 V
 - low noise

 I'm sure it will have to be a switching supply. The question is
 whether any exist with this form-factor that are also quiet from an RF
 perspective.

 Anyone know of such a unit?

 73,
 Wayne
 N6KR



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Re: [Elecraft] Looking for miniature 14-V power supply for travel use

[Rick Dettinger]

OK, but it would still make a great mini kit.  Especially since there  
may not be an acceptable substitute.

Rick   K7MW





On Jul 4, 2011, at 2:44 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:

 Can't roll our own in time for my vacation :)

 Wayne
 N6KR

 On Jul 4, 2011, at 2:39 PM, Rick Dettinger wrote:

 Well, Chief Engineer Wayne, sounds to me like a good idea for a  
 mini kit !

 73,
 Rick Dettinger   K7MW




 On Jul 4, 2011, at 2:23 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:

 I'm going to take a KX3 with me on vacation this summer, and I  
 like to
 travel light. I'll have internal batteries for field operation, but
 for indoor use, I'm hoping to find a miniature power supply that  
 meets
 these criteria:

 - very small (say 4 x 3 x 1 inches)
 - light weight (less than 1 lb)
 - 2 A min. peak output current
 - 13 to 14 VDC output voltage
 - input AC voltage range of 100-130 V
 - low noise

 I'm sure it will have to be a switching supply. The question is
 whether any exist with this form-factor that are also quiet from  
 an RF
 perspective.

 Anyone know of such a unit?

 73,
 Wayne
 N6KR



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Re: [Elecraft] securing toroids in K2, why not?

[Rick Dettinger]

Hi Jim

Good story!  I think that was a few years ago.  Rolls-Royce acquired a  
license to produce the HydraMatic in 1952!   I remember 1952 well, as  
that was the year we got our first TV,  The last ones on the block to  
do so.

73,
Rick Dettinger   K7MW





 Reminds me of a story that I heard years ago while on an assignment in
 England.

 Seems that the Rolls Royce company didn't have an automatic  
 transmission
 in their cars. Since automatic transmissions were the up-and-coming
 thing they decided that they needed one to offer in the Roolls Royce.
 Rather than design one from scratch they surveyed the field and  
 decided
 that the best of breed was one made by General Motors. They entered  
 into
 an agreement with GM to use theirs.

 They took a GM automatic transmission into their shop and tore it down
 completely. They wanted any transmission that was going into a Rolls
 Royce to be top quality, inside and out.  Everything passed muster
 except for one part.  It had a rough surface.  That just wouldn't do  
 so
 they machined the surface to a Rolls Royce standard.  The trouble was
 that when the transmission was assembled it wouldn't work.  They
 contacted GM and found out that the surface in question had to be  
 rough
 or the transmission wouldn't work.

 Best to trust the judgment of the design engineers.

 72,

 Jim - W4BQP
 K2 #2268

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[Elecraft] W6JD SK

[Rick Dettinger]

I don't think I have seen this on the reflector. I didn't know Doug  
personally, but a friend who worked with him at Stanford suggested  
that I post this here since Doug was an avid K3 fan and an occasional  
poster.

~~
Doug, W6JD, Silent Key

Doug was ex-KN2CHN (NY, 1952), K2CHN, W7UYE (Tucson), W0QFD (NE, MO,   
CO), and K6TZX.  B.S. Stanford 1960 (mathematics).

He made DXCC Honor Roll barefoot with dipoles and verticals on a city  
lot, only getting a tribander and amplifier much later.  He was a  
skilled high-speed CW op, rarely using phone.  Recently, he liked  
working with his Elecraft at 10 watts output.  Doug was 72.
~~
Douglas E. Westover

Late of Palo Alto

Entered into rest at his home on June 9, 2011. A software research  
engineer, he retired after years of service with SRI [Stanford  
Research Institute]. A graduate of Stanford University, in addition to  
his research career, he enjoyed being a ham radio operator for many  
years.

Douglas is survived by his wife, Myrna of Palo Alto, son, Daniel of  
Sacramento; daughter, Meredith of Madison, Wisconsin; grandchildren,  
Mary and Davis of Sacramento and one sister, Connie Haseman also of  
Sacramento. Private services are pending under the direction of Roller  
Hapgood  Tinney Mortuary in Palo Alto.

Published in San Jose Mercury News/San Mateo County Times on June 15,  
2011

http://www.legacy.com/obituaries/mercurynews/obituary.aspx?n=douglas-westoverpid=151945070


73,

Rick Dettinger   K7MW
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Re: [Elecraft] Boots for the XG3...

[Rick Dettinger]

Would the Boots need type acceptance if offered by Elecraft?
Does the 15 dB gain maximum rule apply?
Are QRP amplifier kits legal in any case?
Maybe Elecraft could offer a 1watt beacon kit based on the XG3.  There  
seems to be a lot of interest in QRP beacons.

73,

Rick Dettinger   K7MW

On Jun 25, 2011, at 3:14 AM, John Ragle wrote:

 A few days back I inquired of the list if anyone knew of a small
 post-amp that would prefilter the XG3 square wave and give it about 30
 dB boost. There were no answers. The problem seems to be that most QRP
 or QRPp amps already require a few tenths of a watt input, and the 1  
 mW
 from the XG3 is just too tiny...

 I have been specifically thinking about using the XG3 (in its spare
 time) as a 6 meter beacon. Just hooking it up to a resonant  
 antenna is
 not (IMHO) legal, since antennas (think center-fed half wave doublets)
 do not discriminate against ODD harmonics. FCC requires better...see
 §97.307 Emission standards, section (e).

 I have been thinking this over, and it looks like the best answer is  
 to
 build around a 20 dB gain block running in to a power module, such as
 the MAR-6 gain block into a M57735 power module. The output from the  
 XG3
 would need to be low-passed before the gain block, since the usual  
 gain
 blocks are quite wide band (e.g. DC-3 GHz, etc.).

 HOWEVER, a glance at the manual for the XV series transverters already
 shows a transmit path designed and ready, in the schematic for the  
 XV50.
 Aside from ~dozen SMD caps in the filtering (not needed!) connecting  
 the
 mixer to the SGA7489 gain block, the needed component list is rather
 short, about 26 parts, most of which are mundane. I asked Wayne if
 Elecraft would bag up these parts and sell them to me as a partial  
 kit,
 and his response was more or less positive, but he requested that I  
 poll
 the list to see if there is any other interest:

 - A partial kit, no enclosure or circuit board, to assemble a 6
 meter post-amp for the XG3 that would produce 1-5 watts. -

 Note: the SGA7489 gain block is obsolete but the device remains in the
 supply chain.
 Note: the RA30H0608M power module is designed to put out 30 watts in  
 the
 68-88 MHz range. To drive it to this power level from the XG3 might
 require cascading two gain blocks. A substitute part is the M57735
 mentioned above, designed for 25 watts at 50-54 MHz.

 I think that a post amp built ugly style around these ideas would  
 fit
 into an Altoids tin. The only hitch is proper heat-sinking of the  
 power
 module. The layout used for the XV50 takes care of the biasing.

 *

 So, I am asking the list: Is there any interest out there amongst XG3
 owners in having Elecraft bag up a partial kit as outlined above?

 *

 This note is also going directly to Eric at Elecraft, who holds the
 reins for manufacturing...

 John Ragle -- W1ZI

 P.S. The schematics for the XV50 is included in my manuals for my  
 XV144,
 which BTW works wonderfully...




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[Elecraft] FS: K3

[Rick Dettinger]

I am selling my K3/100 SN 556.   The rig is like new and little used  
in non smoking home shack only.
Options include the KBPF3 General Coverage Module, and three filters,  
the KFL3A-500, KFL3A-1.0K and the KFL3A-6K.  Current kit price with  
options is $2440 plus shipping.  I will sell for $1800, including  
ground shipping to CONUS.  PayPal or MO.  I will consider selling rig  
with out any or all of the options.

73,
Rick Dettinger   K7MW

k...@arrl.net
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] AGC-OFF

[Rick Dettinger]

My introduction to Morse code was in 1955.  Our Boy Scout Troop used  
an Instrograph to teach the code for a merit badge.  Its been 55 years  
and I still consider the note from that machine to be the gold  
standard for code practice oscillators.  I don't know if it was a pure  
sine wave, but it was music to my ears.  I know that real music is  
definitely not a sine wave.  I suspect that spark was about as far as  
its possible to get from a pure sine wave!


73,
Rick Dettinger   K7MW



 Also, all the concern over a 'sine wave' tone is a modern  
 affectation that still gets a chuckle out of me and many other OTs.  
 Professional CW operators and Hams alike seldom cared if the tone  
 they heard was a sine wave, a square wave or even some odd-ball  
 sawtooth or triangular waveform. For many, many years my personal  
 favorite sidetone monitor was an RF-activated sawtooth wave  
 generator. I operated some gear in professional/military  
 installations which the sidetone heard while sending was no tone  
 at all, just a confused bunch of bloops, squeals and blasts of hum  
 from a monitor receiver. No one thought anything of it.

 The bottom line is expectations change. Back then we thought nothing  
 of taking five or ten minutes to tune up on a different band. Many  
 Hams built their stations to operate on only one band.

 And some of us are still out there, Hi!

 Ron AC7AC



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[Elecraft] FS: K3/100

[Rick Dettinger]

I am selling my K3/100 SN 556.  This was built by me.  My kit building  
experience goes back to the late 1950's.  I used both a grounded wrist  
strap and pad during construction.  The rig is like new and little  
used in non smoking home shack only.
Options include the KBPF3 General Coverage Module, and three filters,  
the KFL3A-500, KFL3A-1.0K and the KFL3A-6K.  Current kit price with  
options is $2440 plus shipping.  I will sell for $1900, including  
ground shipping to CONUS.  PayPal or MO.

73,
Rick Dettinger   K7MW

k...@arrl.net

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Re: [Elecraft] The last of the through-hole kits

[Rick Dettinger]

I suspect that the spark guys had similar thoughts about the new  
triode vacuum tubes in the 1920's.  Fragile glass tubes that they  
probably didn't fully understand, yet.  I took an electronics class in  
1967 and tubes were still the main focus.  We did play around with  
transistors, and managed to melt several leads.  We didn't need any  
Optivisors in those days.

73,
Rick Dettinger   K7MW



On Jun 3, 2011, at 8:39 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

 Lo, many years ago (1950's) I said that I didn't particularly like  
 working
 with transistors either. They were so tiny and fragile. Vacuum tubes  
 were so
 friendly and they made a beautiful glow in the dark. Besides, many
 technologists pontificated that transistors would never be able to  
 work at
 radio frequencies, much less develop useful power there.


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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 pics

[Rick Dettinger]

The front panel cover would be nice, but a Pelican box can give ample  
protection, also.  A different way of accomplishing the same thing.   
And, also, a good way of keeping the whole kit together.

73,
Rick Dettinger   K7MW



On May 20, 2011, at 7:18 PM, drewko wrote:

 I would be a little worried about damaging in transit the knobs or
 display on such a portable little rig. A snap-on or removable hinged
 hardshell front panel cover might be useful. (Actually, wouldn't mind
 having same for my K3...)

 73,
 Drew
 AF2Z



 On Fri, 20 May 2011 15:24:42 -0400, you wrote:


 Looks nice; but I would have expected a little lower profile knobs.

 But, I am more interested in the KX3P100 with ATU...

 73,
 Henry - K4TMC


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Re: [Elecraft] Something *really* new at Dayton from Elecraft

[Rick Dettinger]

At 44.0 cu in, the KX3 is just about mid way between the K1 and KX1.
Nice job.

73,
Rick Dettinger  K7MW


On May 18, 2011, at 8:44 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:

 unless I misunderstand what the KX3 is all about.

 Ultraportable:

   1.5 lbs
   1.7x3.5x7.4
   KX1 form-factor
   internal battery pack  charger
   internal wide-range ATU
   new adjustable, attached keyer paddle

 ...and a K3-like front panel, including the same LCD.

 73,
 Wayne
 N6KR



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[Elecraft] FS: KAT3 Auto tuner for K3

[Rick Dettinger]

I use a remote auto tuner so I don't need my KAT3.  Used in non  
smoking environment  and always handled with anti static protection.   
Current cost $299.95.  Very little used and works as new, with  
manual.  I will sell for $225. incl. ground shipping to CONUS.  PayPal  
or MO.

Thanks,
Rick Dettinger   K7MW

k...@arrl.net 
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[Elecraft] FS: KAT3

[Rick Dettinger]

KAT3 has been sold.

Thanks,
Rick Dettinger   K7MW
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 - Can someone quantify faint wiper noise from VFO pot?

[Rick Dettinger]

A few years ago, someone on this list recommended a metal body pot.  I  
bought one and think it was a good investment for my K1.  I no longer  
have the original plastic model, or I can't find it, so I can't do a  
direct comparison, but the metal replacement has a very nice feel.   
I also use a heavier K2 knob on my K1, which likely helps in the  
smoothness department.

73,
Rick Dettinger   K7MW



On May 17, 2011, at 1:39 AM, VK7JB wrote:

 Hello Stan,

 This is an interesting observation.   For reasons I'll not elaborate  
 on here
 :), I ended up with two front panels for my K1,  serial #2822.  Both  
 panels
 were bought from Elecraft within a few weeks of one another.  Both  
 have the
 same brand VFO pot with same ID markings, so I believe they are  
 identical
 parts with the same nominal specs.   However, each has a very  
 different
 feel.  One is very smooth indeed - I can't feel the wire effect  
 or hear
 any noise as I move the wiper. It's smooth and creamy.  The second  
 is like
 yours - it has a definite wire feel to it and I can easily hear it  
 when I
 move the wiper.  The wire effect pot is  the one that ended up  
 being wired
 into my K1.  I intend to swap it over for the smooth and creamy  
 one, which
 is currently sitting in the cupboard attached to the unused FP board.

 So, I figure there are significant differences between individual  
 instances
 of this pot.  Perhaps I have two at opposite ends of the spectrum.   
 I know
 which I prefer.

 73,
 John
 VK7JB
 K1 #2822, K2/100 #6998,  K3/100 # 7102


 --
 View this message in context: 
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K1-Can-someone-quantify-faint-wiper-noise-from-VFO-pot-tp6368965p6372211.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] K3 ESD safety

[Rick Dettinger]

Hello,

I am removing the antenna tuner from my K3 and would like information  
on how to protect the module from ESD after removing it from the  
transceiver.  I use the wrist strap and mat, so I am talking about  
storage and shipment.  Should I wrap it in aluminum foil before  
putting it in a baggie?  Obviously, I didn't save the original  
protective bag.  Any ideas?

73 and Thanks,

Rick Dettinger   K7MW
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Re: [Elecraft] UK SSB Elecraft Net

[Rick Dettinger]

I guess they would GB1 and GB2!  JY1's  XYL was JY2.  When you are the  
king, you don't need a suffix!

73,
Rick Dettinger   K7MW


On Apr 29, 2011, at 2:08 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

 Ha, ha! Somebody needs to convince William and Harry to get Ham  
 licenses and
 install a K-line station.

 I can just hear it now, Gotta QRT OM, Grandma and Kate are calling!

 Be more fun than when the King of Jordan, JY1, was on the air.

 Ron AC7AC


 -Original Message-

 Who is getting married?
Kevin.  KD5ONS


 On Fri, 29 Apr 2011 10:50:41 -0700, Fred Jensen k6...@foothill.net  
 wrote:

 You mean it isn't canceled because of some little family wedding?

 73,

 Fred K6DGW
 - Northern California Contest Club
 - CU in the 2011 Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2011
 - www.cqp.org

 On 4/29/2011 12:52 AM, Ian Maude wrote:
 Hi all,There will be no net this week due to my absence.  The net
 will run next week as normal.

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Re: [Elecraft] New Elecraft product: XG3 All-Band RF Signal Source

[Rick Dettinger]

0 dbm.  OK, how do I key this QRP transmitter.  Is it type accepted? :-)

73,

Rick Dettinger  K7MW



On Apr 13, 2011, at 1:31 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:

 The XG3 is a miniature, programmable, 160-2 meter (and higher)
 synthesized RF signal source that puts out highly accurate levels of
 -107 dBm (1 uV), -73 dBm (50 uV or S9), -33 dBm (S9+40), and 0 dBm.

 You can find the XG3 on our order page:

http://www.elecraft.com/elecraft_prod_list.htm

 There a high-resolution color photo of the unit on the cover of the
 XG3 manual:

http://www.elecraft.com/manual/XG3%20Owner%27s%20Manual%20Rev
 %20B.pdf

 Built into a T1-sized enclosure, the XG3 runs on an internal 9-V
 battery or from an external power supply. Auto power-off is provided
 to save battery life, but you can override this when necessary.

 The XG3 includes band switches and LED indicators for 160-2 meters.
 Harmonics of the output can be used to produce signals on bands well
 into the microwave range.

 Any of the band switches can be programmed to cover any frequency in
 the 1.5 to 200 MHz range (or higher, using harmonics) by connecting a
 PC to the unit. Resolution is 1 Hz on all bands. You can set up
 frequency sweeps over any range, and even use the XG3 as a VFO or
 local oscillator for homebrew projects. The PC application can also be
 used to update the unit's firmware.

 The primary use of the XG3 is for receiver calibration, sensitivity
 testing, and signal tracing. However, since it's very small,
 lightweight, and rugged, it's also useful outdoors--for antenna
 evaluation, field strength measurements, micro-power beacons, etc.

 Please refer to the XG3 manual for additional details.

 73,
 Wayne
 N6KR



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Re: [Elecraft] Groundi loops

[Rick Dettinger]

Thanks, Don.  I am always happy to learn that something I don't  
understand is meaningless!  I even like to think that was the reason  
that I didn't understand it!

73,
Rick Dettinger   K7MW





On Apr 12, 2011, at 8:02 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

  Jim,

 You are correct, the term ground loop is not meaningful.

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Re: [Elecraft] Xyl/KPA500

[Rick Dettinger]

A wise man builds a comfortable dog house.  With 240 volts available.

73,
Rick Dettinger   K7MW





On Apr 9, 2011, at 4:38 PM, george fritkin wrote:

 Boy we sure have a bunch of wimps here.  Just tell the old lady you  
 are buying some more ham gear!  (Would some one pass me the cheese  
 and an extra blanket for the couch!!)
 Love my two K3s
 George, W6GF


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Re: [Elecraft] K1 #2973 on the Air (Choosing the K1 or KX1)

[Rick Dettinger]

They sorta did.  Its called the Wilderness SST!  Wayne designed it a  
couple of decades ago.  And its big brother, the NorCal 40A.

73,
Rick Dettinger   K7MW





 One other thing: I really wish Wayne and Eric would peal off one of
 their talented junior engineers and design a K0. (K zero).  A single
 band superhet with 2-3 watts out and super compact.

 73, Doug -- K0DXV

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Re: [Elecraft] New K1 Owner -- Which ATU?

[Rick Dettinger]

The external tuner also makes it much easier to change filter boards,  
if that is in your plans.  You need to remove the internal tuner to  
change boards if you want more than 4 bands. And, yes, you can use the  
external tuner with other rigs.  But without the tune up memory that  
you get with Elecraft kits.  I have often thought that I would like an  
external enclosure with the T1 tuner and a battery pack.  Then I would  
attach my portable paddles to the enclosure and benefit from the weight.

73,
Rick Dettinger  K7MW


On Apr 4, 2011, at 5:22 PM, Mike WA8BXN wrote:

 An external one may have a wider tuning range. If you plan to use  
 the radio
 for portable operation the internal tuner is very nice to have, cuts  
 down on
 what you have to carry, hook up and provide power to.

 73 - Mike WA8BXN




 ---Original Message---

 From: af6ni
 Date: 4/4/2011 8:08:32 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] New K1 Owner -- Which ATU?

 I just purchased a used (#2917) K1 at the TRW Ham swap meet last  
 weekend.
 It's a 2 bander - 40  20 and works well now that I aligned it.
 I am thinking of either the internal K1 auto tuner or perhaps the  
 external
 One. I would like to hear the plusses and minuses of the internal  
 board vs.
 The external unit. I am leaning toward the external unit presently  
 since I
 Could use that with other QRP rigs.

 Thanks in advance.
 Joe
 AF6NI

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Re: [Elecraft] Lightning in New Mexico

[Rick Dettinger]

The ground police would be the local electrical inspector for new  
construction.  If the antenna system is constructed after occupancy,  
the ground police would consist of the local fire dept.  
investigation team after the fire.  Any penalty will come from the  
insurance company, not the Sheriff!

73,
Rick Dettinger   K7MW



On Mar 28, 2011, at 10:46 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

 Our concern is not the ground police  (the local Electrical  
 Inspector)
 --  it's LIGHTNING or a serious fault on the power line that can make 
 you a very unhappy guy if you do it wrong.

 73, Jim Brown K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] OT police was Lightning in New Mexico

[Rick Dettinger]

Sometimes, the inspections come after the sparks!

73,
Rick Dettinger   K7MW





On Mar 29, 2011, at 2:25 PM, Edward R. Cole wrote:

 What are electrical inspectors, ground police, construction permits,
 any permits?  We doan gots dem up heah in da norte!

 I put up my towers, constructed 12x38 foot shed, wired same, had
 drive-way put in back yard, rewired the shack with 240vac...not any
 one's business what we do. ;-)

 Well, a little stretch of truth as electrical requires inspection to
 make code and keep insurance and mortgage folks happy.  But we did
 all those things without any permits or inspections.


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Re: [Elecraft] Maxwell's Equations.

[Rick Dettinger]

I also have been enjoying this discussion.  And the thread is nicely  
described in the subject line, making it easy to filter for those not  
interested.  It would be nice if this was always the case, on this  
reflector and others.


73,
Rick Dettinger   K7MW





On Mar 10, 2011, at 8:25 AM, dave wrote:

 I for one have been enjoying the thread.

 Ditto!

 It is, unfortunately, somewhat rare that there is an interesting
 discussion on here.


 73 de dave
 ab9ca/4





 On 3/10/11 9:58 AM, Gary Ferdinand wrote:
 I for one have been enjoying the thread.

 Gary W2CS



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 - just 500 watts?

[Rick Dettinger]

I don't know about majic, but 500 watts out closely mimics the maximum  
legal power of  the era that many of us got into ham radio.  The power  
was specified in input power and was limited to 1 KW.  I suspect that  
the KPA-500 is close to that.
500 watts seems to be a good figure for a 120 volt supply voltage.
And while it might be an expensive way to go, the KPA-500 could be  
driven to 200 watts with about 7 watts, giving what some have wished  
for with a K3.  200 watts of very clean SSB output.  I only do CW so  
this is just a thought.
And I think there is a full power amplifier in the works.

73,
Rick Dettinger
K7MW



 OK...

 Got my flame suit on

 Why just 500 watts with te KPA-500?  Is that a majic number?  I am  
 just asking.
 It seems that 500 watts would be OK if you are on a DXpedition...but  
 if you are
 in the fray of a contest in the USofAthe more watts the better.


 Don't get me wrong...I love the idea of the KPA500 and the KAT500.   
 But what is
 majic about 500 watts when many amps will run much more than that  
 and are a lot
 less money?  Cost vs 

 Please don't kill mejust...wondering what the big deal is!

 Lee - K0WA
 K3/100 with the AL-82



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Re: [Elecraft] just 500W ?

[Rick Dettinger]

I know the feeling!  I was fooling around sending into a cantenna with  
my HW 100.  This was in the early 1970's, and I thought that a  
resistor inside a grounded metal can would not let any signal out!  It  
was a major surprise, to say the least, when someone came back to me.   
Only about a mile away, but this was my first QRP contact.  The next  
was still 25 years in the future.

Rick Dettinger
K7MW



 I connected a hand key and a battery in series, paid out a roll of guy
 wire and tossed it on the roof, then started listening around the
 rig's 40-m frequency with my Hallicrafters SX101. A guy up in Los
 Angeles was calling CQ, and when he came back to me, I nearly fell off
 my chair. 200 miles on 200 mW, with an unmatched wire laying on the
 roof and a 9-V battery!

 Wayne
 N6KR


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