Re: [Elecraft] Seeking loop Antenna Parts

2016-02-11 Thread Kevin Stover

Totally agree.
I built a dipole one time and fed it with the 450 Ohm window line 
everybody likes to use.
I twisted the ends of the window line and crimped a couple of terminals 
on the ends. If it was going to be a permanent antenna I would have 
soldered it.


Two years later when I took it down I disconnected the window line from 
the 1:1 current balun and the terminals came off in my hand. Apparently 
when I twisted the strands before crimping the connectors I removed some 
of the copper. The steel wire underneath had rusted to dust a good six 
inches back. No more window line here, doesn't matter who sells it, and 
no more copper weld.


On 2/10/2016 5:59 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Copperweld is "nasty" stuff IMHO.  If you can support it so it will 
not flex, you can tension it greater than plain copper.  But it 
'remembers' the coils it had on the wire spool and will spring back to 
those coils if allowed to remain free and untensioned.  If you pull it 
while it has a kink in it, the game is over, that kink will become a 
spot for failure.






--
R. Kevin Stover
AC0H
ARRL
FISTS #11993
SKCC #215
NAQCC #3441


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Re: [Elecraft] Seeking loop Antenna Parts

2016-02-10 Thread Don Wilhelm
Copperweld is "nasty" stuff IMHO.  If you can support it so it will not 
flex, you can tension it greater than plain copper.  But it 'remembers' 
the coils it had on the wire spool and will spring back to those coils 
if allowed to remain free and untensioned.  If you pull it while it has 
a kink in it, the game is over, that kink will become a spot for failure.


That is part of why I prefer hard drawn copper wire for my antennas.  I 
use stranded #14.  The stranded will endure more flexing than solid 
wire, and will not kink as easily as copperweld.


Any antenna wire will be subject to some flexing (from wind if nothing 
else), so plan on that - that is especially true if you are using trees 
as supports.  Even though you may have a system that allows the trees to 
move in the wind without stressing the antenna wire, there will still be 
flexing of the wire when those trees move.


Those reasons are why I use stranded hard drawn copper wire.  All my 
antennas are resonant.  For those who are using non-resonant antennas, 
stranded copper wire (not hard drawn) will usually suffice because some 
elongation of the wire is not likely to hurt anything.


So the bottom line answer is "it all depends" on your planned antennas 
and how much variation you can tolerate.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/10/2016 6:42 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

On Wed,2/10/2016 10:37 AM, Nels Nelsen wrote:

multistrand copper coated steel is longer lasting.


Not in my experience -- my neighbor hung a dipole strung with 
copperweld (what you're describing, I think) in some trees with 
tension on it and with pulleys and weights to deal with tree sway. It 
was on the ground a day or two later -- the stuff was quite brittle, 
and simply broke.


I really hate copperweld, and would never consider using it.

Just remember this when you start trouble shooting strange swr in a 
couple of years. Copper breaks so easy.Go to the Wireman.com for some 
good wire.


The wireman is a decent vendor, but I buy my antenna wire from big box 
stores.




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Re: [Elecraft] Seeking loop Antenna Parts

2016-02-10 Thread Jim Brown

On Wed,2/10/2016 10:37 AM, Nels Nelsen wrote:

multistrand copper coated steel is longer lasting.


Not in my experience -- my neighbor hung a dipole strung with copperweld 
(what you're describing, I think) in some trees with tension on it and 
with pulleys and weights to deal with tree sway. It was on the ground a 
day or two later -- the stuff was quite brittle, and simply broke.


I really hate copperweld, and would never consider using it.


Just remember this when you start trouble shooting strange swr in a couple of 
years. Copper breaks so easy.Go to the Wireman.com for some good wire.


The wireman is a decent vendor, but I buy my antenna wire from big box 
stores.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Seeking loop Antenna Parts

2016-02-10 Thread w5sum

Clay
Hard drawn, copper weld, copper plated steel stranded is all GOOD STUFF. 
BUT.. you DON’T NEED IT HERE!
I live 12 miles from you as the crow flies. My 80 meter full wave loop made 
out of THHN has been up for
16 years and has never broken or developed high standing wave. I DO see some 
of the clear
coating coming off but the insulation itself is intact.  I will GIVE you all 
the THHN you need.


PLEASE save your money for other things you need.

Ronnie W5SUM

-Original Message- 
From: Ron D'Eau Claire

Sent: Wednesday, February 10, 2016 3:59 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Seeking loop Antenna Parts

That support rope Jim referenced has done a great job here for a number of
years supporting wire antennas over 100 feet long hung in tall fir trees. I
did provide strain relief - a pulley at one end attached to a weight so the
tree can move freely. We do get winds gusting over 60 mph here most winters
and the rope has handled the shock load of the tree whipping and jerking on
a 20 lb weight.

The wire I use is hard drawn stranded copper.  I purchased mine through Ham
Radio Outlet back when I lived near one of their stores. It is also on line
at:
http://www.hamradio.com/detail.cfm?pid=71-001462

73, Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-
Pulleys yes. Cord at a marine store will be expensive.  Here's a link to the
company that makes great antenna rope that is resold by several large ham
vendors. 3/16-in is enough for strength, but 5/16-in is easier to grip if
you need to pull it to put a lot of tension on it.

http://www.synthetictextilesinc.com/supportham.html


I would recommend using hard drawn copper for the wire rather than
THHN.  You can find THHN at your local DIY store.  For hard drawn
copper, look at The Wireman www.thewireman.com.



73, Jim K9YC



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Re: [Elecraft] Seeking loop Antenna Parts

2016-02-10 Thread Bob McGraw K4TAX
Yes, with copper weld it is copper plated over steel.  Once the copper 
gets pitted or scored, the elements can get to the steel core, it will 
rust, expand under the copper causing the copper to further shed and the 
steel will rust and break.  If one must uses solid or stranded, hard 
drawn is preferred.


73
Bob, K4TAX
K3S, s/n 10163



On 2/10/2016 2:57 PM, j...@kk9a.com wrote:

I never had a problem with THHN, but stranded copper weld had a very short
life in Aruba.

John KK9A - P40A


N2TK, Tony tony.kaz at verizon.net
Wed Feb 10 14:00:43 EST 2016

In the Caribbean the sun and salt spray gives short life to most wires. I
bought on eBay  several years ago stranded silver-solder tinned copper wire
with a Teflon coating. It doesn't seem to have stretched much and the Teflon
coating is holding up very well. I used #14 on 160M and #12 on 80M. Here in
NY I use #20 for receive antennas.

So, I guess it depends on your climate what works best and what is the best
value.

GL.
N2TK, Tony

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Re: [Elecraft] Seeking loop Antenna Parts

2016-02-10 Thread Clay Autery
The rigging you describe is almost exactly what I am planning.

I can replace broken 14 AWG THHN 3 times for the price diff...  IF it
breaks... and I will simply use a non-stretching down-line on the
tension weight and monitor its descent toward the ground to determine if
and when to trim the loop back and re-terminate.

I'd use that snazzy, 30% copper over steel stuff if I didn't have the
system/access to maintain/replace the loop and I needed it to stay put
for years and years...  the insulation vs. bare wire has some measurable
impact on radiation characteristics, but at this point, I'll just get a
loop in the air so I can get on the air when I finish assembling and
testing my K3s.

Thank you and ALL of y'all for y'alls help and opinions, et al.  I have
lots of new information and docs to read/study.  :-)

__
Clay Autery
KG5LKV
(318) 518-1389

On 2/10/2016 3:59 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> That support rope Jim referenced has done a great job here for a number of
> years supporting wire antennas over 100 feet long hung in tall fir trees. I
> did provide strain relief - a pulley at one end attached to a weight so the
> tree can move freely. We do get winds gusting over 60 mph here most winters
> and the rope has handled the shock load of the tree whipping and jerking on
> a 20 lb weight. 
>
> The wire I use is hard drawn stranded copper.  I purchased mine through Ham
> Radio Outlet back when I lived near one of their stores. It is also on line
> at:
> http://www.hamradio.com/detail.cfm?pid=71-001462
>
> 73, Ron AC7AC
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> Pulleys yes. Cord at a marine store will be expensive.  Here's a link to the
> company that makes great antenna rope that is resold by several large ham
> vendors. 3/16-in is enough for strength, but 5/16-in is easier to grip if
> you need to pull it to put a lot of tension on it.
>
> http://www.synthetictextilesinc.com/supportham.html
>
>> I would recommend using hard drawn copper for the wire rather than 
>> THHN.  You can find THHN at your local DIY store.  For hard drawn 
>> copper, look at The Wireman www.thewireman.com.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Seeking loop Antenna Parts

2016-02-10 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
That support rope Jim referenced has done a great job here for a number of
years supporting wire antennas over 100 feet long hung in tall fir trees. I
did provide strain relief - a pulley at one end attached to a weight so the
tree can move freely. We do get winds gusting over 60 mph here most winters
and the rope has handled the shock load of the tree whipping and jerking on
a 20 lb weight. 

The wire I use is hard drawn stranded copper.  I purchased mine through Ham
Radio Outlet back when I lived near one of their stores. It is also on line
at:
http://www.hamradio.com/detail.cfm?pid=71-001462

73, Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-
Pulleys yes. Cord at a marine store will be expensive.  Here's a link to the
company that makes great antenna rope that is resold by several large ham
vendors. 3/16-in is enough for strength, but 5/16-in is easier to grip if
you need to pull it to put a lot of tension on it.

http://www.synthetictextilesinc.com/supportham.html

> I would recommend using hard drawn copper for the wire rather than 
> THHN.  You can find THHN at your local DIY store.  For hard drawn 
> copper, look at The Wireman www.thewireman.com.


73, Jim K9YC



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Re: [Elecraft] Seeking loop Antenna Parts

2016-02-10 Thread j...@kk9a.com
I never had a problem with THHN, but stranded copper weld had a very short
life in Aruba.

John KK9A - P40A


N2TK, Tony tony.kaz at verizon.net
Wed Feb 10 14:00:43 EST 2016

In the Caribbean the sun and salt spray gives short life to most wires. I
bought on eBay  several years ago stranded silver-solder tinned copper wire
with a Teflon coating. It doesn't seem to have stretched much and the Teflon
coating is holding up very well. I used #14 on 160M and #12 on 80M. Here in
NY I use #20 for receive antennas.

So, I guess it depends on your climate what works best and what is the best
value.

GL.
N2TK, Tony

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Re: [Elecraft] Seeking loop Antenna Parts

2016-02-10 Thread Bob McGraw K4TAX
One point to consider if running the antenna wire through a pulley. It 
will work back and forth in the wind and as trees move.  The constant 
flexing will take its toll on the wire.  A stranded wire with insulation 
I have found preferred and lives longer.Also, use large diameter 
pulleys to keep the bending to a minimum.   With a fixed terminating 
point and three pulleys, forming somewhat of a square,  only one counter 
weight is required at one corner to keep the wire tight.


And yes, feed it with a balanced line of your choice.  Do bring it all 
the way into the house, thus avoiding any coax runs to the balun or 
matching network.   On QRZ.COM, you can see my balanced line section 
from the tuner,  running up the wall, through the ceiling, to the attic 
and to the outside.  Lightning protection is on the outside before the 
line enters the house.


73
Bob, K4TAX
K3S, s/n 10163



On 2/10/2016 12:37 PM, Nels Nelsen wrote:

Copper is fine for conductivity but:

multistrand copper coated steel

is longer lasting. Just remember this when you start trouble shooting
strange swr in a couple of years. Copper breaks so easy.Go to the
Wireman.com for some good wire.

NE7LS



On Feb 10, 2016 1:59 AM, "Clay Autery"  wrote:



3) 500' nominal, 14 AWG, THHN stranded annealed copper, gray.

4)

n_n
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Re: [Elecraft] Seeking loop Antenna Parts

2016-02-10 Thread N2TK, Tony
In the Caribbean the sun and salt spray gives short life to most wires. I
bought on eBay  several years ago stranded silver-solder tinned copper wire
with a Teflon coating. It doesn't seem to have stretched much and the Teflon
coating is holding up very well. I used #14 on 160M and #12 on 80M. Here in
NY I use #20 for receive antennas.

So, I guess it depends on your climate what works best and what is the best
value.

GL.
N2TK, Tony 

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Nels
Nelsen
Sent: Wednesday, February 10, 2016 1:37 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Seeking loop Antenna Parts

Copper is fine for conductivity but:

multistrand copper coated steel

is longer lasting. Just remember this when you start trouble shooting
strange swr in a couple of years. Copper breaks so easy.Go to the
Wireman.com for some good wire.

   NE7LS



On Feb 10, 2016 1:59 AM, "Clay Autery"  wrote:
>
>
>
> 3) 500' nominal, 14 AWG, THHN stranded annealed copper, gray.
>
> 4)

   n_n
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Re: [Elecraft] Seeking loop Antenna Parts

2016-02-10 Thread Nels Nelsen
Copper is fine for conductivity but:

multistrand copper coated steel

is longer lasting. Just remember this when you start trouble shooting
strange swr in a couple of years. Copper breaks so easy.Go to the
Wireman.com for some good wire.

   NE7LS



On Feb 10, 2016 1:59 AM, "Clay Autery"  wrote:
>
>
>
> 3) 500' nominal, 14 AWG, THHN stranded annealed copper, gray.
>
> 4)

   n_n
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Re: [Elecraft] Seeking loop Antenna Parts

2016-02-10 Thread Jim Brown

On Wed,2/10/2016 4:41 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Clay,

You should be able to find suitable pulleys and cord at a marine 
supply store.


Pulleys yes. Cord at a marine store will be expensive.  Here's a link to 
the company that makes great antenna rope that is resold by several 
large ham vendors. 3/16-in is enough for strength, but 5/16-in is easier 
to grip if you need to pull it to put a lot of tension on it.


http://www.synthetictextilesinc.com/supportham.html

I would recommend using hard drawn copper for the wire rather than 
THHN.  You can find THHN at your local DIY store.  For hard drawn 
copper, look at The Wireman www.thewireman.com.


The only issue with THHN is that it stretches if under load. I have high 
dipoles under about 100# tension, and I have to trim them every few 
years. Another way to do hard drawn copper is to buy #8 bare copper at 
your local big box store and stretch it yourself.  Cut a few hundred 
foot length, tie one end to a tree or telephone pole, the other end to a 
trailer hitch, and pull VERY slowly until it breaks. The result is hard 
drawn copper that is 15-20% longer.


Before you commit resources to a loop, take a look at the antenna 
planning applications notes on my website.   k9yc.com/publish.htm


In general, low horizontal antennas have poor efficiency. Antennas that 
lack common mode chokes at the feedpoint are noisy on RX, and it's not 
practical to choke most non-resonant antennas. If ground conductivity is 
good in your area, a roof-mounted multi-band vertical could be an 
excellent choice.  Study the FCC map. To choose a vertical, study the 
N0AX/K7LXC report on their measurements of the performance of a dozen or 
so HF verticals. Available from Champion Radio Products. Well worth the 
$35 or so that it costs. While you're there, also buy the report on 
tri-band Yagis -- you'll benefit when buying something to put on that 
tower when you get around to it. This work was done about 15 years ago, 
but the laws of physics don't change. :)  N0AX is now editor of the ARRL 
Handbook and the ARRL Antenna Book -- he's a fine engineer who really 
knows his stuff.


https://www.fcc.gov/media/radio/m3-ground-conductivity-map

73, Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] Seeking loop Antenna Parts

2016-02-10 Thread Russ Tobolic
For the rope, try qualitynylonrope.com  I'm not sure if they have grey or brown 
but I bought a 500ft spool of 3/16"  black polyester for $42.  AND they have 
free shipping for orders over $25. Russ, N3CO

  From: Clay Autery 
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Wednesday, February 10, 2016 4:58 AM
 Subject: [Elecraft] Seeking loop Antenna Parts
   
So, based on a brief survey today, my first "real" antenna will be a
nominally horizontal delta loop, while I save for and get construction
designs approved for my tower.  I'm seeking some specific parts and
"preferred" vendors:

1) 3 each, 3" / 75mm MINIMUM diameter "plastic" (UV resistant) hanging
pulley with swivel eye, sealed ball bearings, for cable/cord diameter of
3/16"
I don't see what I want readily available.  I can build them, but I'd
prefer to not have to.  Yes, 75mm minimum diameter to minimize loop wire
wear/hardening and maximize freedom of movement.

2) 500-1000' Dacron/Polyester cordage in grey, brown, OD green, black in
that order.

3) 500' nominal, 14 AWG, THHN stranded annealed copper, gray.

4) telescopic pole, preferably cable of free-standing with loop
attachment NLT 30' with minimal tip flex.  I can build this using
locally sourced materials, some drilling, welding of supplemental
retention nuts, and tapping, etc, but I'd prefer to get this up in the air.
Alternatively, I could provide counter loop guy(s).

The rest I can likely source locally.  If I wasn't trying to get
operational "with dispatch", I'd simply custom build the pulleys and
station point pole.  I may still do so.

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Clay Autery
KG5LKV

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Re: [Elecraft] Seeking loop Antenna Parts

2016-02-10 Thread Ronnie Hull
Clay I have rolls and rolls of thhn. As for pulleys and etc Home Depot can 
help. Keep it simple. It will work
Better
Hard drawn is totally not necessary for your loop. And it's expensive
How are you feeding the loop? 450 or 300 ohm line is best. If your going to use 
it on multiple bands stay away from coax.
You will need a good outdoor Balun that the window line will hook to then you 
feed the bottom of the Balun with a short run of RG8 or 214. 
The impedence matcher in your K3s ( PLEASE tell me you ordered it with one, 
some people call it an antenna tuner ) will handle this setup very sweetly !
Go over and look at k5sl's setup since he is closer to you than I am

Call me anytime

Ronnie
Sent from Ronnie's IPhone

> On Feb 10, 2016, at 06:41, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> Clay,
> 
> You should be able to find suitable pulleys and cord at a marine supply store.
> 
> I would recommend using hard drawn copper for the wire rather than THHN.  You 
> can find THHN at your local DIY store.  For hard drawn copper, look at The 
> Wireman www.thewireman.com.
> 
> A 32 foot heavy duty telescoping pole can be found at The Mast Co. 
> www.themastco.com.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
>> On 2/10/2016 4:58 AM, Clay Autery wrote:
>> So, based on a brief survey today, my first "real" antenna will be a
>> nominally horizontal delta loop, while I save for and get construction
>> designs approved for my tower.  I'm seeking some specific parts and
>> "preferred" vendors:
>> 
>> 1) 3 each, 3" / 75mm MINIMUM diameter "plastic" (UV resistant) hanging
>> pulley with swivel eye, sealed ball bearings, for cable/cord diameter of
>> 3/16"
>> I don't see what I want readily available.  I can build them, but I'd
>> prefer to not have to.  Yes, 75mm minimum diameter to minimize loop wire
>> wear/hardening and maximize freedom of movement.
>> 
>> 2) 500-1000' Dacron/Polyester cordage in grey, brown, OD green, black in
>> that order.
>> 
>> 3) 500' nominal, 14 AWG, THHN stranded annealed copper, gray.
>> 
>> 4) telescopic pole, preferably cable of free-standing with loop
>> attachment NLT 30' with minimal tip flex.  I can build this using
>> locally sourced materials, some drilling, welding of supplemental
>> retention nuts, and tapping, etc, but I'd prefer to get this up in the air.
>> Alternatively, I could provide counter loop guy(s).
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Seeking loop Antenna Parts

2016-02-10 Thread Don Wilhelm

Clay,

You should be able to find suitable pulleys and cord at a marine supply 
store.


I would recommend using hard drawn copper for the wire rather than 
THHN.  You can find THHN at your local DIY store.  For hard drawn 
copper, look at The Wireman www.thewireman.com.


A 32 foot heavy duty telescoping pole can be found at The Mast Co. 
www.themastco.com.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/10/2016 4:58 AM, Clay Autery wrote:

So, based on a brief survey today, my first "real" antenna will be a
nominally horizontal delta loop, while I save for and get construction
designs approved for my tower.  I'm seeking some specific parts and
"preferred" vendors:

1) 3 each, 3" / 75mm MINIMUM diameter "plastic" (UV resistant) hanging
pulley with swivel eye, sealed ball bearings, for cable/cord diameter of
3/16"
I don't see what I want readily available.  I can build them, but I'd
prefer to not have to.  Yes, 75mm minimum diameter to minimize loop wire
wear/hardening and maximize freedom of movement.

2) 500-1000' Dacron/Polyester cordage in grey, brown, OD green, black in
that order.

3) 500' nominal, 14 AWG, THHN stranded annealed copper, gray.

4) telescopic pole, preferably cable of free-standing with loop
attachment NLT 30' with minimal tip flex.  I can build this using
locally sourced materials, some drilling, welding of supplemental
retention nuts, and tapping, etc, but I'd prefer to get this up in the air.
Alternatively, I could provide counter loop guy(s).



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[Elecraft] Seeking loop Antenna Parts

2016-02-10 Thread Clay Autery
So, based on a brief survey today, my first "real" antenna will be a
nominally horizontal delta loop, while I save for and get construction
designs approved for my tower.  I'm seeking some specific parts and
"preferred" vendors:

1) 3 each, 3" / 75mm MINIMUM diameter "plastic" (UV resistant) hanging
pulley with swivel eye, sealed ball bearings, for cable/cord diameter of
3/16"
I don't see what I want readily available.  I can build them, but I'd
prefer to not have to.  Yes, 75mm minimum diameter to minimize loop wire
wear/hardening and maximize freedom of movement.

2) 500-1000' Dacron/Polyester cordage in grey, brown, OD green, black in
that order.

3) 500' nominal, 14 AWG, THHN stranded annealed copper, gray.

4) telescopic pole, preferably cable of free-standing with loop
attachment NLT 30' with minimal tip flex.  I can build this using
locally sourced materials, some drilling, welding of supplemental
retention nuts, and tapping, etc, but I'd prefer to get this up in the air.
Alternatively, I could provide counter loop guy(s).

The rest I can likely source locally.  If I wasn't trying to get
operational "with dispatch", I'd simply custom build the pulleys and
station point pole.  I may still do so.

__
Clay Autery
KG5LKV

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