EV digest 6909
EV Digest 6909 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) What happened when I went to cash in on my battery warrenty by Steve Powers [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: BB600 ni-cads, Re: What batteries to try next? by Michaela Merz [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: BB600 ni-cads, Re: What batteries to try next? by Tehben Dean [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Source for BB600 by Thomas Brannan [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: Made the jump by Dennis Foulke [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) RE: What happened when I went to cash in on my battery warrenty by damon henry [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Motor backemf solved? by GWMobile [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Re: Motor backemf solved? by Cory Cross [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Re: Motor backemf solved? by Danny Miller [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: Motor backemf solved? by Dan Frederiksen [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: Dumb question time by David Roden [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re: Source for BB600 by John G. Lussmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Re: What batteries to try next? by David Roden [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: TS cell exchange... WAS:Re: New Subscriber by David Roden [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Peukert's Exponent by Joseph Tahbaz [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Re: Peukert's Exponent by Joe Smalley [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: EVision sneak preview by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: EV achilles' heel - Trailer thoughts by =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Jukka_J=E4rvinen?= [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Re: BB600 ni-cads, Re: What batteries to try next? by jerryd [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) Surplus Railway Flooded Nicads? by Michael Barkley [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- I am posting this for the benefit of anyone else comtemplating getting anything other than a starting battery from the Wal-Mart. Maybe Sams is the same, I don't know, but I am guessing they use the same tools. I'm trying to get to the bottom of my battery issue. So, I took out the one I knew to be the worst. Literally, the case is warped. The plates are obviously warped and shorting. It failed in a very severe manner. But, it looks like only one of the 10 met this fate. Maybe it sacrificed itself for the others, or maybe it truely had a defect from the get go. I always noticed since Day #1 of install that it lagged the others. Step #1 - I took it back to Walmart and showed them the warped case. I also took the other one that was sitting next to it. No issues with that one. So, I expected they would just replace it. They put it on their tester if you can call it that. Programmed it for Marine / deep cycle / 550 CCA / 71 degrees F. A few seconds later, it poped out a printout saying good battery I wasn't really surprised. The tester gave the battery a rating of 497 CCA out of the rated 550 CCA. Hey I said, that is no good. But, the printout says it is fine ... The other one read 527 CCA. Also somewhat degraded. So, for kicks I had him test a known bad battery that I took out of my original string. One that I couldn't even get 1 mile range out of. Put a load on it, and it goes to 10 V immediately. It read 639 CCA. I about fell over. Come on. That thing is completely toast, 639 CCA ... yea right! Anyway, I walked out with my severely degraded batteries that they refused to honor the warranty on - because they are still good !?!? So, I am going to put them back in tomorrow, drive up and down the big hill in my neighborhood 5-6 times and that will be the end of them. Then, I'm going to take them back when I know for sure that they are completely destroyed. At no point have I mistreated them. I kept them charged, watered, etc. Never took them over 50% DOD. I know for sure that at least the one with the warped case had to be defective - internal short of some kind ... Bottom line, don't buy batteries from someone who knows nothing about them. They won't know how to test them, and even when they are bad, you won't get replacements. All you will get is a long run around. Hope this helps someone. In the meantime, I know that if I want to cash in on any battery warranty at the Walmart, I have to be certain that they are completely wasted before I bring them back. I tried to do the right thing and treat them right. Didn't get me very far at all. Again all I can say is 500 lousy miles. I'd really like to take this up with Johnson Controls who made those things. I still say at least some of them are in fact starting batteries labeled wrong, labeled as deep cycle. How else could this have happened? In the meantime, I'm without my EV until I get this worked out. Steve Shape Yahoo! in your own image. Join our Network Research Panel today! http://surveylink.yahoo.com/gmrs/yahoo_panel_invite.asp?a=7 ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Hello all: a stupid question
EV digest 6910
EV Digest 6910 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) RE: Brake booster pressure by Dewey, Jody R ATC COMNAVAIRLANT, N422G5G [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Prius conversion by Tom Gocze [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: EVision sneak preview by John Wayland [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) RE: What happened when I went to cash in on my battery warrenty by Martin Winlow [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: EVision sneak preview by Frank John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Trouble getting into the ev-list-archive by Mark Fisher [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Re: What happened when I went to cash in on my battery warrenty by Bill Dube [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Re: What happened when I went to cash in on my battery warrenty by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Wanted: Knife switch for battery disconnect by Eric Poulsen [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: Wanted: Knife switch for battery disconnect by Jeff Major [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: Wanted: Knife switch for battery disconnect by Jeff Major [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re: Wanted: Knife switch for battery disconnect by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) RE: Wanted: Knife switch for battery disconnect by Alan Brinkman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: Wanted: Knife switch for battery disconnect [clarification] by Eric Poulsen [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Wheelchair batteries by Brandon Kruger [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Re: What happened when I went to cash in on my battery warrenty by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: What happened when I went to cash in on my battery warrenty by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: Surplus Railway Flooded Nicads?RR thoughts by Bob Rice [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Re: EV Library, What Books Would You Recommend? by Deanne Mott [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) Internal Resistance by Joseph Tahbaz [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) RE: Wheelchair batteries by Dewey, Jody R ATC COMNAVAIRLANT, N422G5G [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) Re: Prius conversion by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) RE: Prius conversion by Dewey, Jody R ATC COMNAVAIRLANT, N422G5G [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- It really depends on how big the booster is on your car. I don't know of any engine that was able to pull 20 inches of vacuum. Most pull around 19 at idle. When hotrods go below 13 they usually add an accumulator to the system to get a little more but I think you will be fine with 11 or 12. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, June 15, 2007 18:09 To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Subject: Brake booster pressure I bought a vaccum pump off ebay - to operate the power brakes. It is from a superduty ford diesel - its pretty small and quiet - but it only pulls about 11 to 12 in. Hg of vaccum (according to a gage..) Do you think this will be enough, or do I need to get something else? A friend has a unit that pulls 20-25; and his brakes work fine. I'm wondering if mine will work ok, or if I need more help - Thanks! Best Regards all - Ed Cooley Charlotte, NC ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- As I pick away at the rebuild of my '04 Salvage Prius, I cannot help but think about pulling out the ICE and making it a pure EV with more batteries. We all pine for the inexpensive EV parts that are rare, given the volume of the current market and here is Toyota cranking out all these AC EV parts. As I look for replacement used parts, it is amazing how reasonable their battery packs (albeit small), inverters and motor/transaxle units are.\ on the used market. These are the basics for some great DIY projects, aren't they? If you add in the aerodynamics of the Prius and the fact that they seem to run 150-250wh/mile, it seems reasonable (at least to me!) that they will become the source of our antics on this list as they get a little age on them. So far, I am into this rebuild, which is an '04 with 14K on it, $4900 for the unit, $2600 for bits (including new airbags) and probably have another grand to go. This will be a rebuilt title, with the body work being done by someone who knows what they are doing. We spend more than this on a lot of our EV projects. Just seems that between what Toyota and Honda have been putting out, IF we can get by some of the re-programming issues, we will have a wealth of EV parts that are already road tested. That '04 drive motor is 50kw. That's not bad for an EV that only needs 150-250 wh/mile. Tom in Maine ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Hello to All, I somehow missed the original thread about Victor's new EV battery-vehicle performance meter, only catching the one from John and Victor's response to it. I've held a prototype model in my hands and will say, that this is going to be one of those 'must have' devices for anyone's EVs! Victor has put a lot of thought into this new
EV digest 6911
EV Digest 6911 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) mechanical regen and silicon carbide controller by john fisher [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: What batteries to try next? by Stefan Peters [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: Internal Resistance by Marcin Ciosek [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Quiet Vacuum Pump by Mark Hanson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: What happened when I went to cash in on my battery warrenty by Danny Miller [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: What happened when I went to cash in on my battery warrenty by Zeke Yewdall [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) EV conversion legislation: tax breaks by Kaido Kert [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Engine parts to keep? by Tehben Dean [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Clutch by Phelps [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) RE: gas taxes... by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: Trouble getting into the ev-list-archive by David Roden (Akron OH USA) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re: [EV] Clutch by Eduardo Kaftanski [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) RE: Clutch by Michael Wendell [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) RE: Sevcon 128/12V DC/CD Wanted by Roger Stockton [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: Clutch by Andrew Kane [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) RE: Sevcon 128/12V DC/CD Wanted by Tim Humphrey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) RE: Battery Warranties - How to get them to give me replacements by Roger Stockton [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: Wanted: Knife switch for battery disconnect [clarification] by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) RE: full size truck conversion by Tim Humphrey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) RE: Prius conversion by Tom Gocze [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) RE: Clutch by Freddie Hartsell [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) Re: Clutch by Andrew Kane [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) RE: Clutch by Freddie Hartsell [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24) Big tax credits!! Re: EV conversion legislation: tax breaks by jerryd [EMAIL PROTECTED] 25) Re: Engine parts to keep? by MIKE WILLMON [EMAIL PROTECTED] 26) PML 640BHP+ Electric Mini Video by Simon Chambers [EMAIL PROTECTED] 27) Re: Engine parts to keep? by Mark Ward [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- for those of you who dont read greencarcongress... an interesting, very light, mechanical regen system planned for use in F1 cars http://www.greencarcongress.com/2007/06/torotrak_and_xt.html If you could buy one for less than $100k it would work in an EV, in theory. A grant to work on a more efficient motorcontroller http://www.greencarcongress.com/2007/06/uqm_technologie.html possible trickle-down to DIY in 10 years, but maybe good news for the OEMs. ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Mike Willmon wrote: The price sheet is for VRLA (lead acid) 2 volt cells, not the Ni-Cd's. A 220AH VRLA cell weighs about 36 lbs. To get 120V worth it would be 60 x 35 lbs = 2160 lbs for a 24KWH pack. Way too much for a little car. Not to mention the price. Keep scrolling down. The NiCads are under KMP and KHP. ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- IR for li-ion varies with the SOC (the lower SOC is the higher IR you get). Factories usually provide IR value measure at 1kHz frequency on batteries charged to 60%. But you need to ask. Widely discussed here Kokam specs some of their big capacity cells 1mOhm other factory that I'm cooperating that produces LiFePO4 gives me value of IR49 mOhms I know that this is very big difference but I'm just giving you factory details. In both cases I can confirm that they are pretty accurate. Regards, Marcin On Monday 18 June 2007 18:42:58 Joseph Tahbaz wrote: What is a good internal resistance number? If I call the battery manufacturer, will they have such information? ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Hi Folk's, Put a CL-60 (inrush surge protector) in series with your vacuum pump. Mine runs a lot quieter when I did that. www.alliedelectronics.com has some. (The usual disclaimer, I'm not affiliated with Allied, nor is my grandmother or pet Ardvark.) Have a renewable energy day, Mark in Roanoke. _ Make every IM count. Download Messenger and join the im Initiative now. Its free. http://im.live.com/messenger/im/home/?source=TAGHM_June07 ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Just to clarify: The Wal-Mart battery is called a MAXX-29. It is sold as a deep cycle battery. Actually I take that back, there's not much about what it's supposed to be used for listed on it. Might just say marine. It USED to have a reserve minutes rating, several years ago. For unknown reasons they removed this spec from the batt's label, it only lists cold cranking amps now. It is a big, cheap, crappy battery. I've killed several in far lighter service and I expect it to be degraded if not dead in a few weeks of EV service. It is NOT useful as an EV battery in my opinion and there's not much reason to continue to discuss it
EV digest 6912
EV Digest 6912 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Clutch by Andrew Kane [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: Engine parts to keep? by Tehben Dean [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: Big tax credits!! Re: EV conversion legislation: tax breaks by Chip Gribben [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Adaptor? by Phelps [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: Engine parts to keep? by MIKE WILLMON [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: Clutch by joe [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Batteries for the Newbie! by Joseph Tahbaz [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Re: EVision sneak preview by John O'Connor [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Re: Big tax credits!! Re: EV conversion legislation: tax breaks by jerryd [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: Big tax credits!! Re: EV conversion legislation: tax breaks by Michael Barkley [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: EVision sneak preview by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re: Clutch, Keepin' it. by Bob Rice [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) RE: EVision sneak preview by Roy LeMeur [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: Clutch by Jeff Shanab [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) woops sorry by Rob Hogenmiller [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) AC Motor? by Rob Hogenmiller [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) by Rob Hogenmiller [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: Engine parts to keep? by Bob Rice [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Current generation of Thundersky by David Sharpe [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) AC Motor? by Rob Hogenmiller [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) Re: EVision sneak preview by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) Re: PML 640BHP+ Electric Mini Video by Roderick Wilde [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) Re: AC Motor? by Zeke Yewdall [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24) Re: Motor backemf solved? by Geopilot [EMAIL PROTECTED] 25) CutOff by Rob Hogenmiller [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- That's good to hear. Evidently the lower rotational mass (compared to an ICE) of your motor means that the synchros can easily spin it up so that these shifts can be made. If I'm reading you correctly you are not using the throttle on these downshifts. I must admit (if I haven't already) that I've never driven an EV, with clutch or without. My experience with clutchless shifting comes exclusively from ICE cars. From what you are saying I was making it much more complex than need be. Of course, my original suggestion of electronic rpm matching still stands, as one would then be able to shift at any old time, as quickly as one liked, without learning any technique or knack. Also I wonder how long the synchros will last in your setup. IIRC you said you've been driving the truck for some time, and you are evidently gentle on the tranny, but I wonder how long a more ham-handed person could drive it that way before failure. No doubt the transmission would outlast the battery pack in any case. On 6/18/07, Freddie Hartsell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I shift the same way when I down shift. Let's say that I am going to make a left turn just ahead. I let off of the pedal and let the truck slow down on it own as much as possible. I use the brakes very little because I have learned to anticipate how much I need to let the truck slow down before I make the turn. Just before I make the turn I take the shifter out of gear and then while I am making the turn I down shift into either 2nd or 3rd depending on the road and how fast I make the turn. Again I do not force the gear change I allow the transmission to shift when it is ready. As I have told my wife, you just have to learn how to do this. I am teaching her how to drive the truck so that she can drive it to work. I seldom use the clutch any more. Freddie. -Original Message- From: Andrew Kane [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, June 18, 2007 5:50 PM To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Subject: Re: Clutch This is in fact the technique I meant when I said speed-shifting. I know it's probably incorrect but that's what I have been accustomed to call this method of clutchless shifting. I'm not surprised that you have had success with this method, upshifting under these conditions is relatively easy. It's down-shifting that represents a problem (if you have no clutch) because ideally the motor should be revved to match rpms with the new (lower) gear, which I suspect is tough to do without overspeeding the motor while it's unloaded. Of course this applies mainly to DC motors AFAIK. On 6/18/07, Freddie Hartsell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I handle shifting a little different in my Dakota EV. I let off of the accelerator then move the shifter out of the gear that it was in. I then gently move it to the gear that I need it to be in without forcing it to go in. If I gently nudge the gear lever into the next gear as the motor slows down, the transmission will slip into the right gear by itself. I do not force anything, I just wait until the motor and the transmission is close enough
