Re: [h-cost] Overlocker thread

2008-05-12 Thread Katy Bishop
You can use the serger a bit and be historically accurate for early
20th century dresses.  I have a lingerie dress, lightweight cotton
with lace insertion, from approx 1905, with some overlocked/serged
seams.

I had a very early Viking home serger, bought about 25 years ago, that
was always such a pain to thread and the tension would get screwed up
easily.  I haven't had a working serger for about 10 years now and I
miss it.  Does anyone have a recent Viking serger, any
recommendations?

Katy

On Sun, May 11, 2008 at 8:27 PM, Sylvia Rognstad [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I think it is necessary for woven fabrics, not so for knits, since they
 don't fray.  Of course, if you're doing historically accurate costumes,
 you probably don't want to serge them, but since I'm not into that, I
 always serge, and can't stand costumes or clothing that aren't serged
 anymore

 Sylvia

 On May 11, 2008, at 5:35 PM, Lavolta Press wrote:

 I've never liked serging but:  Is it useful for fabrics besides knits?
 I
 know it can be used on woven fabrics, but there are a variety of seams
 that can be used on those but less of a variety for knits. Thing is, I
 never sew knits. And I never wanted a serger before but now that I'm
 adding to the machine collection. . .

 I'm really regretting selling that early electric Singer with the
 bentwood case that I had years ago, it worked perfectly and had a great
 straight stitch. It's just that I was a college student, I also had
 another machine, and I didn't want a lot of stuff to haul around. Is it
 easy to get them into good condition?  Mine was like new.

 Fran
 Lavolta Press
 http://www.lavoltapress.com

 Kim Baird wrote:

 You need a strong thread for serging, because there is a bit of
 jerking
 going on, and high speed. I use polyester thread for serging, whether
 it's
 dedicated serger cones or just spools of Guterman or Metrosene. I
 also like
 to use wooly nylon in the loopers, because it covers the edge so well.
 However, you have to be careful when pressing the garment. Too much
 heat,
 and wooly nylon becomes stiff and scratchy.


 snip
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-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
[EMAIL PROTECTED] www.VintageVictorian.com
 Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
 Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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[h-cost] Menstruation in Middle Ages

2008-05-12 Thread Zuzana Kraemerova
Hi, 

I'm sorry if this has been discussed before - I've glanced through the archives 
and didn't find much - please point me to an earlier discussion if so. 

But my question is, is there any evidence and info on how did the medieval 
women deal with menstruation? Did they use special clothes (could they use 
something like pants???)? 

I've also heard that menstruation in the earlier times was much different from 
today and the menstruation could not have been such a big deal after all (not 
to talk about the fact that women were very often pregnant)

I'm also interested in later periods - up to the 18th century - I think the way 
of dealing with it would have been similar to how it was done in the middle 
ages...but I really don't know much about this topic, that's why I rather post 
here and ask:-)

Thanks,

Zuzana
 
   
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Re: [h-cost] Menstruation in Middle Ages

2008-05-12 Thread Frau Anna Bleucher
Off the top of my head, I've read about the use of rags, sea sponges, 
and corks. I've also read references of women letting it run down their 
legs, but that would be both disgusting and dangerous.

My personal theory is that women with poor nutrition or those of 
especially athletic bodies would have little to no menstrual cycle. I 
base this on studies done on modern day women with extremely low body 
fat and their reduced or non-existent cycles.

I don't have much time now, but will find my references and point you to 
them as soon as I can.

Connie

Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:
 Hi,

 I'm sorry if this has been discussed before - I've glanced through the 
 archives and didn't find much - please point me to an earlier discussion if 
 so.

 But my question is, is there any evidence and info on how did the medieval 
 women deal with menstruation? Did they use special clothes (could they use 
 something like pants???)?

 I've also heard that menstruation in the earlier times was much different 
 from today and the menstruation could not have been such a big deal after all 
 (not to talk about the fact that women were very often pregnant)

 I'm also interested in later periods - up to the 18th century - I think the 
 way of dealing with it would have been similar to how it was done in the 
 middle ages...but I really don't know much about this topic, that's why I 
 rather post here and ask:-)

 Thanks,

 Zuzana

   

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Re: [h-cost] Number of machines.Was Sewing and Embroidery Machines

2008-05-12 Thread S Young
I only have a simple Janome sewing machine and a basic Janome over
locker (Serger), they do me well. I imagine as my skills increase I
will look to better machines, but it would be logical to keep the
existing ones as back ups.


Sidney


On Mon, May 12, 2008 at 10:03 AM, Dianne [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I, for one, collect them.  I specialize in old treadles and
  handcranks.  I make mine fully functional. I have found the old
  Singers, prior to the 600 series, can sew through almost anything
  without a problem. 

  Amen! My little Singer 99K is a gorgeous machine. The two Brother machines
  (one sewing, one embroidery only) are functional, and look it. They create
  beautiful things, but they aren't beautiful things in and of themselves.

  Of course, I still want a treadle machine, and a handcrank, and a
  Featherweight, and ooh of course that shiny Duetta with the HUGE embroidery
  field. :-)

  Dianne
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Re: [h-cost] Number of machines.Was Sewing and Embroidery

2008-05-12 Thread Catherine Kinsey
18?? No wonder you need that big house :).
 
I learned to sew on my grt-grandmother's treadle machine and my mothers
dependable singer and have four of my own right now.  Currently my main
machine is a Bernina (basic model, not to many bells and whistles but I
love it).  The backup is my 30 yr old White.  I also have a veteran
Kenmore that a friend used for sewing canvas and left me when she moved.
  I use it for the heavy duty sewing I don't want to push the Bernina on
(which isn't much).  There is also an old singer in a cabinet that used
to be the back-up machine but is now looking for a good home.
 
I have never felt the need for a serger, not sure why, just never
appealed to me.  Ditto with an embroidery machine altho I can see where
they could be very handy for some things if I was still sewing more
commercially.
 
Another question might be how many motors have we gone through on our
machines :)?  The White, which was my main machine during my heaviest
sewing time, is on it's second and could probably do with a third.
 
Catherine
 
***
I have 18 sewing machines in my house; two on loan making a whopping
20. 
Four are treadles, two feather weights, and the earliest dates (that I
can 
tell) from 1919 I may have earlier models but I cannot trace them. This
also 
includes my one lone serger and my industrial machine. My main machine
is my 
Singer Stylist c.1969
 
My favourite is my hand crank portable c.1920 that save my bacon back
the 
year we had Hurricane Juan and we were without power for over a week
and I 
had sewing to do; sad irons, a hand crank and oil lamp...somehow
fitting in 
my c1870s house
 
Sarah Paterson
Great Village, NS
Canada
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Re: [h-cost] Menstruation in Middle Ages

2008-05-12 Thread Cynthia Virtue
I know we've discussed it some, but that was 7 or more years ago!

For those who are curious about more recent menstruation habits, there's 
the online Museum of Menstruation: http://www.mum.org/

-- cv
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Re: [h-cost] Overlocker thread

2008-05-12 Thread Audrey Bergeron-Morin
 My new
 computerised Viking sews fine with brands like Metrosene and Mettler,
 but shreds silk thread.

When I had that problem with my Viking I found out it was the needle,
not the machine, that was shredding the thread.
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Re: [h-cost] Menstruation in Middle Ages

2008-05-12 Thread Mary
There was a great discussion on this topic in January of 2006.

While medieval medical literature doesn't necessarily reflect true life one 
gets the impression that medieval people were fanatically interested in 
periods. Not having one meant that your humors were out of balance and there 
are lots of herbal remedies to bring on the menses. (Now, some of these amount 
to early chemical abortions but that's another topic entirely.) 

It's possibly a medieval woman did not greet her period with the desire to hide 
it that modern marketing has instilled in many of us. It was part of life and 
meant that you were healthy. 

However, I suspect flauting it wasn't good either and I have a completly 
unsubstantiated theory the part of the humilation of being publicly stripped to 
one's shift showed off some old blood stains. 

Another aspect I intend to investigate someday is how much flow a woman who is 
not surrounded by so many artificial hormores has. There are so many 
phyoestrogeons in the environment that I'm not sure we can take modern 
experience as typical.

Cheers,
Mary Haselbauer



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Re: [h-cost] Menstruation in Middle Ages

2008-05-12 Thread Sylvia Rognstad
The museum appears to have been closed.


On May 12, 2008, at 7:22 AM, Cynthia Virtue wrote:

 I know we've discussed it some, but that was 7 or more years ago!

 For those who are curious about more recent menstruation habits, 
 there's
 the online Museum of Menstruation: http://www.mum.org/

 -- cv
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Re: [h-cost] Number of machines

2008-05-12 Thread Pixel, Goddess and Queen

I have five, in total. I have two Viking basic machines, a Daisy and a 310 
or 315. That one is over at the Consort's house for the sewing of his 
armor. I also have a Kenmore quilter's machine that was a gift from my 
mother*, her old avocado green metal Kenmore, with table, and an ancient 
electric with the brand name Stradivaro that scares me--it's very fast, 
and I don't think it understands can't sew through X. And I'm trying to 
acquire a treadle machine and cabinet from a friend. Not sure where I'm 
going to put that one, though, the sewing room is kind of full at the 
moment.

Jen/pixel/Margaret

*I'd said to my sister that I needed a sewing machine to sew tents, 
because my first Kenmore (has since been sold to a friend) really wasn't 
up to it. Then I bought the first Viking. At Xmas, Mom hands me a very 
large box and says You can open that and then I have to kill you. And 
she was very very confused when she offered to return the quilter's 
machine and I wrapped myself around it. How many sewing machines do you 
*have*, now? Only three... But you won't use them all... Yes I 
will.
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[h-cost] 1830s-40s Boots and Shoes

2008-05-12 Thread Serena Dyer
Can anyone recommend a good maker of 1830s-40s ladies' boots or shoes? Accurate 
ones seem to be a very hard to come by thing!

Thanks

Serena Dyer
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[h-cost] 1830s-40s Boots and Shoes

2008-05-12 Thread Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker
 Can anyone recommend a good maker of 1830s-40s ladies' boots or shoes? 
 Accurate ones seem to be a very hard to come by thing!

I haven't heard lately, but Amazon Drygoods used to have a great reputation for 
period shoes.  http://www.amazondrygoods.com/
The Shoe Catalog
Amazon Drygoods has been supplying the footwear need of the entertainment 
industry - films, stage, TV, Opera and ballet - for years. This catalog has 162 
styles of historic reproduction shoes from all periods, in all sizes and colors 
for men, women and children.
THE SHOE CATALOG: $5.00

To receive our catalogs send the correct amount (US funds only) for each 
catalog to:

AMAZON DRYGOODS
411 Brady Street
Davenport, IA 52801-1518 USA
Phone: 1-800-798-7979
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Happy sewing,
Deb

The Mantua-Maker
www.mantua-maker.com
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Re: [h-cost] 1830s-40s Boots and Shoes

2008-05-12 Thread Lynn Downward
JoAnn Peterson, owner of Laughing Moon Mercantile Patterns, has a new store
in Old Sacramento, Calif. JoAnn caters to Gold Rush/Civil War
reenactors. She has lots of great shoes/boots in her store, one or two of
which are 1830s-40s appropriate. I don't know where she gets her shoes, but
check out her website.

http://www.saccitydrygoods.com/category-s/31.htm

LynnD

On Mon, May 12, 2008 at 10:34 AM, Serena Dyer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 Can anyone recommend a good maker of 1830s-40s ladies' boots or shoes?
 Accurate ones seem to be a very hard to come by thing!

 Thanks

 Serena Dyer
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Re: [h-cost] 1830s-40s Boots and Shoes

2008-05-12 Thread Lynn Downward
The last time I tried to get a catalog from Amazon Dry Goods, they sent me a
3 year old catalog and wouldn't give me my money back when i called to say
that I already had that catalog. Maybe they've finally updated their catalog
and improved their customer service.

YMMV,
LynnD

On Mon, May 12, 2008 at 11:27 AM, Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  Can anyone recommend a good maker of 1830s-40s ladies' boots or shoes?
 Accurate ones seem to be a very hard to come by thing!

 I haven't heard lately, but Amazon Drygoods used to have a great
 reputation for period shoes.  http://www.amazondrygoods.com/
 The Shoe Catalog
 Amazon Drygoods has been supplying the footwear need of the entertainment
 industry - films, stage, TV, Opera and ballet - for years. This catalog has
 162 styles of historic reproduction shoes from all periods, in all sizes and
 colors for men, women and children.
 THE SHOE CATALOG: $5.00

 To receive our catalogs send the correct amount (US funds only) for each
 catalog to:

 AMAZON DRYGOODS
 411 Brady Street
 Davenport, IA 52801-1518 USA
 Phone: 1-800-798-7979
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 Happy sewing,
Deb

 The Mantua-Maker
 www.mantua-maker.com
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Re: [h-cost] 1830s-40s Boots and Shoes

2008-05-12 Thread Gilbert
I don't know whether this site will help or not, but yum: 
http://www.sarahjuniper.co.uk/index.html. If anyone could make you period 
shoes and boots, I bet this woman could...

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
http://historicalfictionbooks.ning.com/profile/MarjorieGilbert
- Original Message - 
From: Lynn Downward [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 2:30 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1830s-40s Boots and Shoes


 The last time I tried to get a catalog from Amazon Dry Goods, they sent me 
 a
 3 year old catalog and wouldn't give me my money back when i called to say
 that I already had that catalog. Maybe they've finally updated their 
 catalog
 and improved their customer service.

 YMMV,
 LynnD

 On Mon, May 12, 2008 at 11:27 AM, Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker 
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  Can anyone recommend a good maker of 1830s-40s ladies' boots or shoes?
 Accurate ones seem to be a very hard to come by thing!

 I haven't heard lately, but Amazon Drygoods used to have a great
 reputation for period shoes.  http://www.amazondrygoods.com/
 The Shoe Catalog
 Amazon Drygoods has been supplying the footwear need of the entertainment
 industry - films, stage, TV, Opera and ballet - for years. This catalog 
 has
 162 styles of historic reproduction shoes from all periods, in all sizes 
 and
 colors for men, women and children.
 THE SHOE CATALOG: $5.00

 To receive our catalogs send the correct amount (US funds only) for each
 catalog to:

 AMAZON DRYGOODS
 411 Brady Street
 Davenport, IA 52801-1518 USA
 Phone: 1-800-798-7979
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 Happy sewing,
Deb

 The Mantua-Maker
 www.mantua-maker.com
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Re: [h-cost] 1830s-40s Boots and Shoes

2008-05-12 Thread Bambi TBNL
Sarah Juniper is a DREAM!!!
YEars and YEARS ago...let me stt is ust have beenabout 15 or so yers ago I was 
in England and ran into this woman at a Cavalier reenactment. I ordered shoes 
from her tht I have literally worn out...they were not !8hundreds shoes but she 
can do anything...and they hold up like noboies business and are of course 
repairable if they wear out...its just that 15 years welll..when you wear them 
at least 200 days a yearis gonna wear ANYTHING out completely..I highly 
recomend her nomatter what the price is now...she is a genius.!
Bambi

Gilbert [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I don't know whether this site will help or 
not, but yum: 
http://www.sarahjuniper.co.uk/index.html. If anyone could make you period 
shoes and boots, I bet this woman could...

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
http://historicalfictionbooks.ning.com/profile/MarjorieGilbert
- Original Message - 
From: Lynn Downward 
To: Historical Costume 
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 2:30 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1830s-40s Boots and Shoes


 The last time I tried to get a catalog from Amazon Dry Goods, they sent me 
 a
 3 year old catalog and wouldn't give me my money back when i called to say
 that I already had that catalog. Maybe they've finally updated their 
 catalog
 and improved their customer service.

 YMMV,
 LynnD

 On Mon, May 12, 2008 at 11:27 AM, Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker 
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  Can anyone recommend a good maker of 1830s-40s ladies' boots or shoes?
 Accurate ones seem to be a very hard to come by thing!

 I haven't heard lately, but Amazon Drygoods used to have a great
 reputation for period shoes.  http://www.amazondrygoods.com/
 The Shoe Catalog
 Amazon Drygoods has been supplying the footwear need of the entertainment
 industry - films, stage, TV, Opera and ballet - for years. This catalog 
 has
 162 styles of historic reproduction shoes from all periods, in all sizes 
 and
 colors for men, women and children.
 THE SHOE CATALOG: $5.00

 To receive our catalogs send the correct amount (US funds only) for each
 catalog to:

 AMAZON DRYGOODS
 411 Brady Street
 Davenport, IA 52801-1518 USA
 Phone: 1-800-798-7979
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 Happy sewing,
Deb

 The Mantua-Maker
 www.mantua-maker.com
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Bambi (To be named ater) TBNL

I am made for great things by GOD
and walk with Pride
Walladah bint al Mustakfi c 900ad
(please correct me if i have the date wrong!)
   
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Re: [h-cost] 1830s-40s Boots and Shoes

2008-05-12 Thread Lavolta Press
Amazon buys all their shoes from Annello  Davide in London and I at 
least have bought direct from Annello  Davide.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Lynn Downward wrote:
 The last time I tried to get a catalog from Amazon Dry Goods, they sent me a
 3 year old catalog and wouldn't give me my money back when i called to say
 that I already had that catalog. Maybe they've finally updated their catalog
 and improved their customer service.
 
 YMMV,
 LynnD
 

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Re: [h-cost] 1830s-40s Boots and Shoes

2008-05-12 Thread Melanie Schuessler
I also have a pair of shoes by Sarah Juniper (1570s), and I can't say  
enough good things about them.  She will make them as accurate as you  
wish, and you have never worn anything so comfortable.  Two caveats:   
as far as I know, she does not have email, and she does not take  
credit cards.  For those of us across the pond, it makes doing  
business less convenient, but it is SO worth it.

Melanie Schuessler


On May 12, 2008, at 2:44 PM, Gilbert wrote:

 I don't know whether this site will help or not, but yum:
 http://www.sarahjuniper.co.uk/index.html. If anyone could make you  
 period
 shoes and boots, I bet this woman could...

 Marjorie

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Re: [h-cost] Medieval Clothing Textiles V.4

2008-05-12 Thread Catherine Olanich Raymond
On Tuesday 06 May 2008 8:52:26 pm Ann Catelli wrote:
 My copy of the title journal arrived in my hands today, on the east coast
 of the US.  It was ordered directly from Boydell  Brewster.

 Ann in CT
 only two papers read so far
 more treats to come :)

I ordered my copy from Boydell  Brewer also.  It arrived Friday, but I've 
only read one of the papers so far.  Great stuff!


-- 
Cathy Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED]

You affect the world by what you browse.-- Tim Berners-Lee

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[h-cost] Fwd: Cambridge History of Western Textiles - special offer from DBBC

2008-05-12 Thread Catherine Olanich Raymond

Some of us have said before what an evil tempter Ian Stevens of David Brown 
Book Company (Oxbow Books' American affiliate) can be.

This time he's outdone himself.  Heaven knows *I'm* tempted.  Look!

--  Forwarded Message  --

Subject: Cambridge History of Western Textiles - special offer from DBBC
Date: Monday 12 May 2008
From: Ian Stevens [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]


Dear Catherine Raymond,


We have managed to secure some copies of The Cambridge History of Western 
Textiles to sell at the amazing price of $99.98. This two-volume set usually 
sells for $460.00.

Order before the end of May to get that price. After that, the price is very 
likely to increase.

Simply follow the link below to place your order securely online. Copies will 
be with us in the next week or so and we will bill and ship your orders as 
soon as we can thereafter.

With regards,

Ian Stevens
The David Brown Book Company
Tel_ 1-800-791-9354


-


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Re: [h-cost] Menstruation in Middle Ages

2008-05-12 Thread Cynthia Virtue
I think you may have happened upon a server error or somesuch; it was 
working fine this morning and is likewise this evening.

Sylvia Rognstad wrote:
 The museum appears to have been closed.


 On May 12, 2008, at 7:22 AM, Cynthia Virtue wrote:

   
 I know we've discussed it some, but that was 7 or more years ago!

 For those who are curious about more recent menstruation habits, 
 there's
 the online Museum of Menstruation: http://www.mum.org/
 

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[h-cost] Norris' Medieval Costume and Fashion

2008-05-12 Thread Genie Barrett
Hello all,

Having just received Norris in a gift basket this last weekend, I am 
wondering how good his TEXT is.  I've heard so many of you mention 
this as one of the least desirable of costuming books, but no one 
says why.  Some of that is obvious, just looking at the pictures, but 
I wanted to get your opinions.  The date of origin is a big one, I'm 
sure, but what else?

Thanks,
Genie
Who would rather look at Chinese costume more than European these days.

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Re: [h-cost] Norris' Medieval Costume and Fashion

2008-05-12 Thread Melanie Schuessler
I have his Tudor volume rather than the Medieval one, but the text in  
the Tudor volume is entirely suspect.  Just as in his drawings, in  
his text there are some good bits of information and some that are  
almost entirely invented.  Since he doesn't cite anything, the only  
way you'll know the difference is to check up on him with other sources.

My favorite example from the Tudor book is a lovely drawing of Queen  
Elizabeth riding a horse in a black gown.  When I first saw it, I  
thought, Neat!  I don't recognize that portrait--I wonder where it  
is...  since he often redraws from 16th-century images.  Looking in  
the text, however, I found that he had invented the picture based on  
a short description from a 16th-century text.  He included the  
description in full.  Looking at the date on the description and the  
picture, I found that he hadn't really paid attention to what was  
fashionable in that year when he was drawing.  Much later, I found  
the actual description in the original source and realized that not  
only had he invented the picture on rather scanty evidence (and done  
a fairly poor job of it), he had embellished the description in his  
text as well, adding in details not found in the original!

I have also found the originals of some of his redrawings, and he is  
very prone to correcting the images so they'll be in line with his  
own sense of current fashion, including adding a cute little bow on  
top of a french hood in one redrawing of a memorial brass.

I don't trust him an inch.

Melanie Schuessler


On May 12, 2008, at 9:28 PM, Genie Barrett wrote:

 Having just received Norris in a gift basket this last weekend, I am
 wondering how good his TEXT is.  I've heard so many of you mention
 this as one of the least desirable of costuming books, but no one
 says why.
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Re: [h-cost] Menstruation in Middle Ages

2008-05-12 Thread Sharon Collier
I've heard that even today, in countries where women work hard and/or have
poor nutrition, menopause sets in much earlier, around the 30's. 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Zuzana Kraemerova
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 5:01 AM
To: h-costume
Subject: [h-cost] Menstruation in Middle Ages

Hi, 

I'm sorry if this has been discussed before - I've glanced through the
archives and didn't find much - please point me to an earlier discussion if
so. 

But my question is, is there any evidence and info on how did the medieval
women deal with menstruation? Did they use special clothes (could they use
something like pants???)? 

I've also heard that menstruation in the earlier times was much different
from today and the menstruation could not have been such a big deal after
all (not to talk about the fact that women were very often pregnant)

I'm also interested in later periods - up to the 18th century - I think the
way of dealing with it would have been similar to how it was done in the
middle ages...but I really don't know much about this topic, that's why I
rather post here and ask:-)

Thanks,

Zuzana
 
   
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