Re: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914

2007-07-05 Thread MaggiRos
Ooh, deeply glamourous! However, I've got a month
exactly till the event, so a heavy beading project
isn't gonna happen. I think I'm thinking of something
summery with pinks and greens, but the black does
sound yummy. Hmmm, maybe for next year. I look
terrific in black. ;-)

Something like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Pure-Silk-Satin-Charmeuse-Fabric-Fairy-Lillies-Per-Yard_W0QQitemZ130126819853QQihZ003QQcategoryZ28158QQcmdZViewItem
or
http://tinyurl.com/33bbjr

Or possibly that for the under dress and a solid green
for the tunic, if I can find the right color. Or maybe
the other way around. 

Thanks for the idea!

MaggiRos

--- Kathy Page [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 MaggiRos,
 
 Personally, I envision this one in black chiffon
 with both jet and iridescent black beading, both
 tube and round beads. Go for a scrolling pattern for
 the beads, keep the really heavy stuff away from the
 edge of the hems to keep it moving softly. Only a
 thing line of them at the hem to frame it.
 Concentrate the sparkly bits between knee and thigh
 to get maximum light, as the black on black might be
 lost. Same with the bodice, put the most work into
 where the light will catch it - across the chest and
 centre front. Go utterly crazy on the girdle where
 it will take the weight. You might even find a
 patterned chiffon out there to get you started.
 
 Kathy
 

~Fog is just a cloud that lacks the will to fly.
 Bill Bryson, A Short History of Practically Everything
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Re: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914

2007-07-05 Thread Katy Bishop

Nice fabric choice, very summery.  Would work for both evening and a
garden party or tea

Katy

On 7/5/07, MaggiRos [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Ooh, deeply glamourous! However, I've got a month
exactly till the event, so a heavy beading project
isn't gonna happen. I think I'm thinking of something
summery with pinks and greens, but the black does
sound yummy. Hmmm, maybe for next year. I look
terrific in black. ;-)

Something like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Pure-Silk-Satin-Charmeuse-Fabric-Fairy-Lillies-Per-Yard_W0QQitemZ130126819853QQihZ003QQcategoryZ28158QQcmdZViewItem
or
http://tinyurl.com/33bbjr

Or possibly that for the under dress and a solid green
for the tunic, if I can find the right color. Or maybe
the other way around.

Thanks for the idea!

MaggiRos

--- Kathy Page [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 MaggiRos,

 Personally, I envision this one in black chiffon
 with both jet and iridescent black beading, both
 tube and round beads. Go for a scrolling pattern for
 the beads, keep the really heavy stuff away from the
 edge of the hems to keep it moving softly. Only a
 thing line of them at the hem to frame it.
 Concentrate the sparkly bits between knee and thigh
 to get maximum light, as the black on black might be
 lost. Same with the bodice, put the most work into
 where the light will catch it - across the chest and
 centre front. Go utterly crazy on the girdle where
 it will take the weight. You might even find a
 patterned chiffon out there to get you started.

 Kathy


~Fog is just a cloud that lacks the will to fly.
 Bill Bryson, A Short History of Practically Everything
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--
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
[EMAIL PROTECTED]www.VintageVictorian.com
Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
 Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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RE: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914

2007-07-05 Thread otsisto
How about making the tunic out of lace and add a few pearls, pink, green and
clear beads to spots.

De

-Original Message-
Ooh, deeply glamourous! However, I've got a month
exactly till the event, so a heavy beading project
isn't gonna happen. I think I'm thinking of something
summery with pinks and greens, but the black does
sound yummy. Hmmm, maybe for next year. I look
terrific in black. ;-)

Something like this:
http://tinyurl.com/33bbjr

Or possibly that for the under dress and a solid green for the tunic, if I
can find the right color. Or maybe the other way around.

Thanks for the idea!

MaggiRos

--- Kathy Page [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 MaggiRos,

 Personally, I envision this one in black chiffon
 with both jet and iridescent black beading, both
 tube and round beads. Go for a scrolling pattern for
 the beads, keep the really heavy stuff away from the
 edge of the hems to keep it moving softly. Only a
 thing line of them at the hem to frame it.
 Concentrate the sparkly bits between knee and thigh
 to get maximum light, as the black on black might be
 lost. Same with the bodice, put the most work into
 where the light will catch it - across the chest and
 centre front. Go utterly crazy on the girdle where
 it will take the weight. You might even find a
 patterned chiffon out there to get you started.

 Kathy


~Fog is just a cloud that lacks the will to fly.
 Bill Bryson, A Short History of Practically Everything
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Re: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914

2007-07-05 Thread AlbertCat
 
In a message dated 7/5/2007 4:49:31 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

How  about making the tunic out of lace and add a few pearls, pink, green  and
clear beads to spots.



**
 
And of course they make the most opulent already embroidered / beaded  / 
beribboned fabrics in a host of colors. They are expensive, but when the  
pattern 
and cutting and form are so simple, you need a great fabric to make  is 
luxurious.



** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
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RE: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914

2007-07-05 Thread MaggiRos
That would be terrific, but again, there's a time
constraint. The black stuff I just ordered, though
will probably lend itself to some accent beads.

Thanks for the inspiration!

MaggiRos the Elizabethan

--- otsisto [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 How about making the tunic out of lace and add a few
 pearls, pink, green and
 clear beads to spots.
 
 De
 

~Fog is just a cloud that lacks the will to fly.
 Bill Bryson, A Short History of Practically Everything
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Re: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914

2007-07-05 Thread MaggiRos
I've found a green that will go under it perfectly. It
will also go under the embroidered black, so I'm going
to go for it and do both!  Mwahahaha. Two totally
different looks off the same idea

I'm feeling fairly evil, but it's payday, and I don't
do this kind of thing very often. No honest. I swear.
Not in silk. Never.

Uh hunh,

MaggiRos



--- Katy Bishop [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Nice fabric choice, very summery.  Would work for
 both evening and a
 garden party or tea
 
 Katy
 
 On 7/5/07, MaggiRos [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  Ooh, deeply glamourous! However, I've got a month
  exactly till the event, so a heavy beading project
  isn't gonna happen. I think I'm thinking of
 something
  summery with pinks and greens, but the black does
  sound yummy. Hmmm, maybe for next year. I look
  terrific in black. ;-)
 
  Something like this:
 

http://cgi.ebay.com/Pure-Silk-Satin-Charmeuse-Fabric-Fairy-Lillies-Per-Yard_W0QQitemZ130126819853QQihZ003QQcategoryZ28158QQcmdZViewItem
  or
  http://tinyurl.com/33bbjr
 
  Or possibly that for the under dress and a solid
 green
  for the tunic, if I can find the right color. Or
 maybe
  the other way around.
 
  Thanks for the idea!
 
  MaggiRos
 
  --- Kathy Page [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
   MaggiRos,
  
   Personally, I envision this one in black chiffon
   with both jet and iridescent black beading, both
   tube and round beads. Go for a scrolling pattern
 for
   the beads, keep the really heavy stuff away from
 the
   edge of the hems to keep it moving softly. Only
 a
   thing line of them at the hem to frame it.
   Concentrate the sparkly bits between knee and
 thigh
   to get maximum light, as the black on black
 might be
   lost. Same with the bodice, put the most work
 into
   where the light will catch it - across the chest
 and
   centre front. Go utterly crazy on the girdle
 where
   it will take the weight. You might even find a
   patterned chiffon out there to get you started.
  
   Kathy
  
 
  ~Fog is just a cloud that lacks the will to fly.
   Bill Bryson, A Short History of Practically
 Everything
  ___
  h-costume mailing list
  h-costume@mail.indra.com
  http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
 
 
 
 -- 
 Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]   
 www.VintageVictorian.com
  Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
   Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
 ___
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
 


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Re: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914

2007-07-05 Thread MaggiRos
I'm totally in love with this one, but I don't think
it will go with the pink/green charmeuse.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemih=013sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AITviewitem=item=230147316386rd=1rd=1#ebayphotohosting
or
http://tinyurl.com/2pvtf4

Oh I'm all in a dither. I've got to pick something and
start or it won't happen at all!

MaggiRos the twitterpated

--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  
 In a message dated 7/5/2007 4:49:31 P.M. Eastern
 Daylight Time,  
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 
 How  about making the tunic out of lace and add a
 few pearls, pink, green  and
 clear beads to spots.
 
 
 
 **
  
 And of course they make the most opulent already
 embroidered / beaded  / 
 beribboned fabrics in a host of colors. They are
 expensive, but when the  pattern 
 and cutting and form are so simple, you need a great
 fabric to make  is 
 luxurious.
 
 
 
 ** See what's
 free at http://www.aol.com.
 ___
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
 


~Fog is just a cloud that lacks the will to fly.
 Bill Bryson, A Short History of Practically Everything
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Re: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914

2007-07-04 Thread Kathy Page
MaggiRos,

Personally, I envision this one in black chiffon with both jet and iridescent 
black beading, both tube and round beads. Go for a scrolling pattern for the 
beads, keep the really heavy stuff away from the edge of the hems to keep it 
moving softly. Only a thing line of them at the hem to frame it. Concentrate 
the sparkly bits between knee and thigh to get maximum light, as the black on 
black might be lost. Same with the bodice, put the most work into where the 
light will catch it - across the chest and centre front. Go utterly crazy on 
the girdle where it will take the weight. You might even find a patterned 
chiffon out there to get you started.

Kathy

OK, 20s, I can go with that. Colors? Fabric
suggestions? Websites that don't require a
subscription? I'm not committed to perfect accuracy
but I'd like to be in the ballpark for whatever date
the dress is trying to be, and make a pretty, wearable
dress.

MaggiRos 
Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or 
barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert
(Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lions head erased gules. 
It’s never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
Tosach eólais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge. 
Where the spirit does not work with the hand, there is no art.
-Leonardo da Vinci





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Re: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914

2007-07-03 Thread Lynn Downward

MaggiRos,

I think we've talked about this pattern once before, when it first
came out, and I remember that it's not very period. I looked at the
pattern and the bodice, skirt and belt are three separate pieces made
up to look like a dress. It would be easier to make a dress.


From the GBACG Great Pattern Review:

#4093 - Making History: Tunic, Gown  Girdle circa 1914

Caren Johannes - Recommended with reservations.
I'm an experienced sewer but, I haven't sewn anything complicated in
years. This dress was fairly easy. It's probably not accurate, as are
many of the patterns in the Making History series. I couldn't find any
dresses from the period that resembled this when I researched it. The
abbreviated, awful instructions found in too many Butterick patterns
are here in force. Even worse, several of the illustrations are
incorrect or unclear. The pattern calls for 60-inch wide fabric for
the outer tunic, and they mean it because the tunic pattern won't fit
on the fabric! You can use 45-inch wide material for the tunic but.
you'll have a seam down the front which actually may help with fit and
prevent the tunic shoulders from drooping. Several careful fittings
during construction are a must. Ignore the instructions on seaming the
sleeves together if you're using sheer fabric; you're better off using
French seams. If you have heavy upper arms, you may have to cut the
sleeves larger at the shoulder. I used a satin and didn't bother to
add the trim called for at the bottom of the tunic, as the pattern
construction makes a self trim ribbon.

Carin's was the only review of this pattern.

There's got to be something better out there, unless you're really
hooked into the lower waisted dress. JoAnnPeterson's high-waisted
dress of the same period would look great on you. Folkware has their
own dress of the same time.

Hope some of that helps.

See you in a few weeks,
Lynn

On 7/3/07, Cin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

MaggiRos,
That seems like a remarkably low waist line for 1914.  The W should be
quite high, right under the bosom  the shape generally columnar.

As for what that is, um, dunno, but I'd bet it'd look lovely in
something strongly colored; perhaps a wispy chiffon over charmeuse? An
encrustation of beads? Embroidered lace? Metallic lace?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2007 09:58:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: MaggiRos [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Hi all,

I'm in over my head again, although the pattern itself
isn't the problem. I want to do this Butterick
historical (1914, they say) dress for Costume College
in August,

http://www.butterick.com/item/B4093.htm?search=B4093page=1

But I don't know anything about this period, realy. So
what colors and fabrics can anyone suggest? Silk seems
perfect, but does it have to be pale and watery? I'm
not really a pale and watery sort of person, as some
of you know. :-)

MaggiRos
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Re: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914

2007-07-03 Thread Penny Ladnier
This pattern is similar to the early 1920s.  The semi low waistline and the 
handkerchief style overskirt.


Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 


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Re: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914

2007-07-03 Thread MaggiRos
Lynnie, I don't think you're talking about the same
pattern, although I see the pattern number in the
review is the same.  But it's hardly a bodice and
skirt. There's an underdress (gown) cut on the fold of
45 fabric, and the overdress (tunic) cut on the fold
of 60 fabric. The girdle does look like it rides
below the hips, I'll grant you, but that's what
creates such waist as it has. The trim is beaded
ribbon, not self trim, although there is some
self-facing at the neckline. The sleeves just fall
from the shoulder, open along the top. No seaming that
I can see.

Maybe it's been revised since that review? Or maybe
it's more complicated than it looks, Butterick is
notorious for leaving things out.

I may not have been reading the list when the pattern
came out, but it's certainly not complicated. I'm not
in search of a low waist especially--not with my
waist! I just liked the look of the outfit, and the
pieces look adaptable to other things. I think.

Maybe I should just stick to the 16th century.

Maggie 


--- Lynn Downward [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 MaggiRos,
 
 I think we've talked about this pattern once before,
 when it first
 came out, and I remember that it's not very period.
 I looked at the
 pattern and the bodice, skirt and belt are three
 separate pieces made
 up to look like a dress. It would be easier to make
 a dress.
 
 From the GBACG Great Pattern Review:
 #4093 - Making History: Tunic, Gown  Girdle circa
 1914
 
 Caren Johannes - Recommended with reservations.
 I'm an experienced sewer but, I haven't sewn
 anything complicated in
 years. This dress was fairly easy. It's probably not
 accurate, as are
 many of the patterns in the Making History series. I
 couldn't find any
 dresses from the period that resembled this when I
 researched it. The
 abbreviated, awful instructions found in too many
 Butterick patterns
 are here in force. Even worse, several of the
 illustrations are
 incorrect or unclear. The pattern calls for 60-inch
 wide fabric for
 the outer tunic, and they mean it because the tunic
 pattern won't fit
 on the fabric! You can use 45-inch wide material for
 the tunic but.
 you'll have a seam down the front which actually may
 help with fit and
 prevent the tunic shoulders from drooping. Several
 careful fittings
 during construction are a must. Ignore the
 instructions on seaming the
 sleeves together if you're using sheer fabric;
 you're better off using
 French seams. If you have heavy upper arms, you may
 have to cut the
 sleeves larger at the shoulder. I used a satin and
 didn't bother to
 add the trim called for at the bottom of the tunic,
 as the pattern
 construction makes a self trim ribbon.
 
 Carin's was the only review of this pattern.
 
 There's got to be something better out there, unless
 you're really
 hooked into the lower waisted dress. JoAnnPeterson's
 high-waisted
 dress of the same period would look great on you.
 Folkware has their
 own dress of the same time.
 
 Hope some of that helps.
 
 See you in a few weeks,
 Lynn
 
 On 7/3/07, Cin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  MaggiRos,
  That seems like a remarkably low waist line for
 1914.  The W should be
  quite high, right under the bosom  the shape
 generally columnar.
 
  As for what that is, um, dunno, but I'd bet it'd
 look lovely in
  something strongly colored; perhaps a wispy
 chiffon over charmeuse? An
  encrustation of beads? Embroidered lace? Metallic
 lace?
  --cin
  Cynthia Barnes
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
  Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2007 09:58:51 -0700 (PDT)
  From: MaggiRos [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Subject: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914
  To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Message-ID:
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
 
  Hi all,
 
  I'm in over my head again, although the pattern
 itself
  isn't the problem. I want to do this Butterick
  historical (1914, they say) dress for Costume
 College
  in August,
 
 

http://www.butterick.com/item/B4093.htm?search=B4093page=1
 
  But I don't know anything about this period,
 realy. So
  what colors and fabrics can anyone suggest? Silk
 seems
  perfect, but does it have to be pale and watery?
 I'm
  not really a pale and watery sort of person, as
 some
  of you know. :-)
 
  MaggiRos
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Re: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914

2007-07-03 Thread Dawn




http://www.butterick.com/item/B4093.htm?search=B4093page=1

But I don't know anything about this period, realy. So
what colors and fabrics can anyone suggest? Silk seems
perfect, but does it have to be pale and watery? I'm
not really a pale and watery sort of person, as some
of you know. :-)



Oooh, that pattern is on my 'must make' list, too.

No, you don't have to use pale watery colors. Take a look at these 
prints from the period. Some are later than the teens, but you get the 
idea. Rich earth tones, black and red, some bold, contrasting prints. 
And this is the period when Rayon was developed as a silk substitute.




Dawn



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Re: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914

2007-07-03 Thread Gilbert
I'd have to agree. When looking in my trusty Patterns of Fashion c 1860 - 
1940 by Janet Arnold, the gowns pictured definitely have higher waists than 
the Butterick pattern--they almost look Victorian. The Butterick pattern 
gown more resembles the styles of the 1920's.


Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
- Original Message - 
From: Cin [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: h-cost [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 6:16 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914



MaggiRos,
That seems like a remarkably low waist line for 1914.  The W should be
quite high, right under the bosom  the shape generally columnar.

As for what that is, um, dunno, but I'd bet it'd look lovely in
something strongly colored; perhaps a wispy chiffon over charmeuse? An
encrustation of beads? Embroidered lace? Metallic lace?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2007 09:58:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: MaggiRos [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Hi all,

I'm in over my head again, although the pattern itself
isn't the problem. I want to do this Butterick
historical (1914, they say) dress for Costume College
in August,

http://www.butterick.com/item/B4093.htm?search=B4093page=1

But I don't know anything about this period, realy. So
what colors and fabrics can anyone suggest? Silk seems
perfect, but does it have to be pale and watery? I'm
not really a pale and watery sort of person, as some
of you know. :-)

MaggiRos
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RE: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914

2007-07-03 Thread otsisto
Maggie,
I have this pattern and have material set aside for it.
It is an early 1920s style, evening dress or can be a summer tea dress. The
girdle top is at waist level.
What I have found so far is that it would that you could make it in a darker
color. I am not sure of what you mean by watery but if you mean flowy, then
pretty much yes. There were some evening gown fabric that were a little
stiff but not really that stiff. Velvets, silks, lace, chiffon, crepe
What fabric/design(?) you could use for a tea dress.
http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_474.htm

dresses of the 1920s
http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_591.htm
http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_255.htm
http://www.antiquedress.com/item4453.htm
http://www.marquise.de/en/1900/pics/1920/192x_1.shtml
http://www.marquise.de/en/1900/pics/1920/1924_2.shtml
http://www.marquise.de/en/1900/pics/1920/1929_8.shtml
http://www.powerhousemuseum.com/collection/database/?irn=35224

I plan on adding long sleeves to the gown. trim will be lace and pearls. I
have Simplicity 4947 that is to go with the Butterick pattern for a full
outfit. I do not plan on making the girdle but may make a purse that will go
under the tunic and have a slit in the tunic for easy access.
You do not have to have a 60 wide fabric for your tunic, you can use 45
and have a seam down the center or cut the pattern so that you will have
princess seams and then cover over the seam with beadwork. Think of the
tunic as your canvas and the gown the frame.

De
-Original Message-
  Hi all,
 
  I'm in over my head again, although the pattern
 itself
  isn't the problem. I want to do this Butterick
  historical (1914, they say) dress for Costume
 College
  in August,
 
 

http://www.butterick.com/item/B4093.htm?search=B4093page=1
 
  But I don't know anything about this period,
 realy. So
  what colors and fabrics can anyone suggest? Silk
 seems
  perfect, but does it have to be pale and watery?
 I'm
  not really a pale and watery sort of person, as
 some
  of you know. :-)
 
  MaggiRos


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Re: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914

2007-07-03 Thread Katy Bishop

That pattern is just so not 1914 to me.  It make me think of 1920s
styles, or Norma Desmond (or Norma Desmond played by Carol Burnett
:~).  The waist in 1914, and for most of the 'teens for that matter
was high or natural, it's not until the later 'teens that you get a
slightly dropped waist.  The shape of the over skirt is much more
1916-17.

I have several pictures of evening dresses from the 'teens on my website:

http://www.vintagevictorian.com/costume_1910.html

I just love the 'teens, so many fun styles, and a different look for
each year of the decade.  I need to find the time to make a new dress
for Newport's ragtime ball this year.

Katy

On 7/3/07, Lynn Downward [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

MaggiRos,

I think we've talked about this pattern once before, when it first
came out, and I remember that it's not very period. I looked at the
pattern and the bodice, skirt and belt are three separate pieces made
up to look like a dress. It would be easier to make a dress.

From the GBACG Great Pattern Review:
#4093 - Making History: Tunic, Gown  Girdle circa 1914

Caren Johannes - Recommended with reservations.
I'm an experienced sewer but, I haven't sewn anything complicated in
years. This dress was fairly easy. It's probably not accurate, as are
many of the patterns in the Making History series. I couldn't find any
dresses from the period that resembled this when I researched it. The
abbreviated, awful instructions found in too many Butterick patterns
are here in force. Even worse, several of the illustrations are
incorrect or unclear. The pattern calls for 60-inch wide fabric for
the outer tunic, and they mean it because the tunic pattern won't fit
on the fabric! You can use 45-inch wide material for the tunic but.
you'll have a seam down the front which actually may help with fit and
prevent the tunic shoulders from drooping. Several careful fittings
during construction are a must. Ignore the instructions on seaming the
sleeves together if you're using sheer fabric; you're better off using
French seams. If you have heavy upper arms, you may have to cut the
sleeves larger at the shoulder. I used a satin and didn't bother to
add the trim called for at the bottom of the tunic, as the pattern
construction makes a self trim ribbon.

Carin's was the only review of this pattern.

There's got to be something better out there, unless you're really
hooked into the lower waisted dress. JoAnnPeterson's high-waisted
dress of the same period would look great on you. Folkware has their
own dress of the same time.

Hope some of that helps.

See you in a few weeks,
Lynn

On 7/3/07, Cin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 MaggiRos,
 That seems like a remarkably low waist line for 1914.  The W should be
 quite high, right under the bosom  the shape generally columnar.

 As for what that is, um, dunno, but I'd bet it'd look lovely in
 something strongly colored; perhaps a wispy chiffon over charmeuse? An
 encrustation of beads? Embroidered lace? Metallic lace?
 --cin
 Cynthia Barnes
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2007 09:58:51 -0700 (PDT)
 From: MaggiRos [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914
 To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

 Hi all,

 I'm in over my head again, although the pattern itself
 isn't the problem. I want to do this Butterick
 historical (1914, they say) dress for Costume College
 in August,

 http://www.butterick.com/item/B4093.htm?search=B4093page=1

 But I don't know anything about this period, realy. So
 what colors and fabrics can anyone suggest? Silk seems
 perfect, but does it have to be pale and watery? I'm
 not really a pale and watery sort of person, as some
 of you know. :-)

 MaggiRos
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--
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
[EMAIL PROTECTED]www.VintageVictorian.com
Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
 Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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Re: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914

2007-07-03 Thread AlbertCat
Well, doesn't look like anything I've ever seen from 1914.
 
I designed a Three Penny Opera that was set in 1914to compliment  the 
fox trots and 2 steps in the music...and so I researched that very  year. 
 
The waist was at a high-natural line..kinda like the late 1820s or where  men 
wore their pants in the 1950s...y'know, high but  at the waist. Bodices  
usually had no darts of any kind. The backs would be narrow...almost fitted,  
even 
on a shirtwaist... and the fronts would be full, but not baggy like the  
pigeon breasted look of just before in the 1900s. Lots of raglan and dolman  
sleeves with narrow cuffsV necks and high collars. Skirts were gored  
usually 
and slightly flaring stopping at the ankle. Sometimes the  front would be a 
single gore that was straight from the hips down and the  back would be 2 goes 
that flared a bit. Evening things had a layering of  shears effect with beading 
and embroidery, and skirts  were sometimes curiously draped. When the war 
starts, military influences  come into play, with things like large pockets 
with 
pleats and flaps, lots of  buttons, and high boots, that lace up the front...a 
great look with a wool  suit.
 
Hats could be wide and flat but not as large as in  the period before. The 
brim would often be oval with the long sides over the  shoulders. And you see 
less stuff on them. Also a whole range of fez-like  and novelty shapes of 
smaller hats appear. Hair is not short yet but often put  up. Crimping is 
popular.
 
It's a transitional period going out of La Belle Epoch into the 20's. You  
see all kinds of half-and-half combinations.



** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
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Re: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914

2007-07-03 Thread MaggiRos
OK, 20s, I can go with that. Colors? Fabric
suggestions? Websites that don't require a
subscription? I'm not committed to perfect accuracy
but I'd like to be in the ballpark for whatever date
the dress is trying to be, and make a pretty, wearable
dress.

MaggiRos



--- Gilbert [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I'd have to agree. When looking in my trusty
 Patterns of Fashion c 1860 - 
 1940 by Janet Arnold, the gowns pictured definitely
 have higher waists than 
 the Butterick pattern--they almost look Victorian.
 The Butterick pattern 
 gown more resembles the styles of the 1920's.
 
 Marjorie
 
 Marjorie Gilbert
 author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set
 Georgian England
 www.marjoriegilbert.net
 - Original Message - 
 From: Cin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: h-cost [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 6:16 PM
 Subject: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914
 
 
  MaggiRos,
  That seems like a remarkably low waist line for
 1914.  The W should be
  quite high, right under the bosom  the shape
 generally columnar.
 
  As for what that is, um, dunno, but I'd bet it'd
 look lovely in
  something strongly colored; perhaps a wispy
 chiffon over charmeuse? An
  encrustation of beads? Embroidered lace? Metallic
 lace?
  --cin
  Cynthia Barnes
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
  Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2007 09:58:51 -0700 (PDT)
  From: MaggiRos [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Subject: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914
  To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Message-ID:
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
 
  Hi all,
 
  I'm in over my head again, although the pattern
 itself
  isn't the problem. I want to do this Butterick
  historical (1914, they say) dress for Costume
 College
  in August,
 
 

http://www.butterick.com/item/B4093.htm?search=B4093page=1
 
  But I don't know anything about this period,
 realy. So
  what colors and fabrics can anyone suggest? Silk
 seems
  perfect, but does it have to be pale and watery?
 I'm
  not really a pale and watery sort of person, as
 some
  of you know. :-)
 
  MaggiRos
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  h-costume@mail.indra.com
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~Fog is just a cloud that lacks the will to fly.
 Bill Bryson, A Short History of Practically Everything
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Re: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914

2007-07-03 Thread MaggiRos
Oh yes, I was looking at this site this morning.
wonderful stuff. Thanks.

MaggiRos

--- Katy Bishop [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 That pattern is just so not 1914 to me.  It make me
 think of 1920s
 styles, or Norma Desmond (or Norma Desmond played by
 Carol Burnett
 :~).  The waist in 1914, and for most of the 'teens
 for that matter
 was high or natural, it's not until the later 'teens
 that you get a
 slightly dropped waist.  The shape of the over skirt
 is much more
 1916-17.
 
 I have several pictures of evening dresses from the
 'teens on my website:
 
 http://www.vintagevictorian.com/costume_1910.html
 

~Fog is just a cloud that lacks the will to fly.
 Bill Bryson, A Short History of Practically Everything
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Re: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914

2007-07-03 Thread MaggiRos
I'll adjust my searches. Thanks Penny!
--- Penny Ladnier [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 This pattern is similar to the early 1920s.  The
 semi low waistline and the 
 handkerchief style overskirt.

~Fog is just a cloud that lacks the will to fly.
 Bill Bryson, A Short History of Practically Everything
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Re: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914

2007-07-03 Thread Penny Ladnier

MaggiRos,

I made a dress similar to this pattern in a shimmery dark red.  I was going 
to a Red Cross Ball in August, so I wanted it to look period with a modern 
twist.  In our university's collection we have a black lace dress similar to 
this one.


Pastels were worn in the summer in the early 1920s.

We have some in the collection from the 1910s in nice peach shades.  One has 
green piping and is very lovely.  We have another dress of ecru netting with 
powder blue medallions.  I would love to make a reproduction of that dress 
one day.


Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 


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Re: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914

2007-07-03 Thread Penny Ladnier
For the general population, the waistline was at its normal placement in 
1910-1911.  By 1912-1914, the empire waist was fashionable.  From 1910 to 
1914 the waistline gradually moved up.  In 1912, I have Ladies' Home Journal 
with the mid waistline.  Delineator magazine shows the empire waist.


I tell my students that during World War 1 ladies' fashion was kinda like 
the 1980s; a little bit of everything went on. It was fashion design gone 
wild.  I personally like the WW1 fashions...very creative!  I have 1916-1918 
fashion plates of some of the same fashions that were worn in the 1980s.


Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com


- Original Message - 
From: Gilbert [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 7:29 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914


I'd have to agree. When looking in my trusty Patterns of Fashion c 1860 - 
1940 by Janet Arnold, the gowns pictured definitely have higher waists 
than the Butterick pattern--they almost look Victorian. The Butterick 
pattern gown more resembles the styles of the 1920's.


Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
- Original Message - 
From: Cin [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: h-cost [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 6:16 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914



MaggiRos,
That seems like a remarkably low waist line for 1914.  The W should be
quite high, right under the bosom  the shape generally columnar.

As for what that is, um, dunno, but I'd bet it'd look lovely in
something strongly colored; perhaps a wispy chiffon over charmeuse? An
encrustation of beads? Embroidered lace? Metallic lace?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2007 09:58:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: MaggiRos [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Out of my period again - 1914
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Hi all,

I'm in over my head again, although the pattern itself
isn't the problem. I want to do this Butterick
historical (1914, they say) dress for Costume College
in August,

http://www.butterick.com/item/B4093.htm?search=B4093page=1

But I don't know anything about this period, realy. So
what colors and fabrics can anyone suggest? Silk seems
perfect, but does it have to be pale and watery? I'm
not really a pale and watery sort of person, as some
of you know. :-)

MaggiRos
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