RE: [lace] Earnshaw, Diaper

[Annette Meldrum]

Pat Earnshaw was a scientist, not a lacemaker. She did however make a huge
contribution to the study of lace and how it was made and had a good eye for
lace identification.

Marie Laurie who wrote the only instruction book on Halas Lace, wrote to Pat
correcting Pat’s notes on Halas Lace in her book: Outlines and Stitches and
Pat wrote back very apologetically saying that she only studies the lace
through a microscope!



Annette Meldrum, in sunny Australia



From: Devon Thein 
I find it staggering to learn that Pat Earnshaw didn’t make lace. Although I
suppose it is possible that you could draw stitch diagrams from observation





---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] RE: Earnshaw, Diaper

[Cynce Williams]

Weaver person here. A diaper pattern is a small pattern arranged in a
half-drop repeat. A birdseye twill makes a nice diaper pattern. Hence in the
US we had Birdseye diapers (nappies) which were woven in a birdseye twill.

Cynthia

On Apr 3, 2018, at 5:10 PM, DevonThein  wrote:

> My American dictionary defines diaper in the second definition as 2. A
linen
> or cotton fabric with a woven pattern of small constantly repeated figures,
as
> diamonds. 3. Such a pattern (originally used in medieval weaving of silk
and
> gold.)

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] RE: Earnshaw, Diaper

[Marianne Gallant]

No I don't think diamond would be a preferred term, since diamonds can 
be any size. Diaper patterns are a very common term for weavers, and is 
understood as being a small repeating pattern, not even necessarily in 
diamond shape

*Marianne*

Marianne Gallant
Vernon, BC Canada
m...@shaw.ca
http://threadsnminis.blogspot.ca, https://www.facebook.com/GallantCreation/

On 2018-04-03 3:10 PM, DevonThein wrote:
> Would I be correct in assuming that the preferred term would be diamond?
> Devon
>
>

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

[lace] diaper an all-over pattern

[Bev Walker]

Continuing from Adele's message, diaper (cloth) was woven with such a
pattern built-in, for absorbency and so became the name for the cloth used
for babies. In weaving terms, I believe it was called a 'rosepath'
threading, cf. 'roseground' in lacemaking.

For those interested, the word origin is Middle English "diapre" from Old
French "diapres" rooted in Greek "dia" (all-over maybe?) + "aspros" (white)

On Tue, Apr 3, 2018 at 3:09 PM, Adele Shaak  wrote:

> I’ve always understood that those patterns - very popular in medieval
> times - where there’s a matrix of diamond shapes, are called diaper
> patterns. So, a repeating shape, usually in a diamond form. I think the
> North American use of “diaper” for baby’s nappies comes from the
> traditional triangular shape of the pinned garment.


--
Bev in Shirley BC, near Sooke on beautiful Vancouver Island, west coast of
Canada

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

[lace] RE: Earnshaw, Diaper

[DevonThein]

I find it staggering to learn that Pat Earnshaw didn’t make lace. Although I
suppose it is possible that you could draw stitch diagrams from observation,
the Merehurst Embroidery Skills book Needlelace has a great many photographs
of the stitches and the processes which is part of its charm. Did she have
someone else do these samples and set up the process shots?
You are correct, “diaper” is nappy here. But, I think I have seen the term
used for diamond shaped patterns in gros point. Perhaps I have picked up the
term from reading antiquated lace identification guides or museum catalog
cards.
My American dictionary defines diaper in the second definition as 2. A linen
or cotton fabric with a woven pattern of small constantly repeated figures, as
diamonds. 3. Such a pattern (originally used in medieval weaving of silk and
gold.)
Would I be correct in assuming that the preferred term would be diamond?
Devon

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] Bath-changing style of contemporary Needlelace 1970s onwards

[Adele Shaak]

I’ve always understood that those patterns - very popular in medieval times - 
where there’s a matrix of diamond shapes, are called diaper patterns. So, a 
repeating shape, usually in a diamond form. I think the North American use of 
“diaper” for baby’s nappies comes from the traditional triangular shape of the 
pinned garment. 

Adele
West Vancouver, BC
(west coast of Canada)

> I've not come across the word 'diaper' in this context before (I thought it 
> was a word used in the US for baby's nappies!), has it any other meanings? 

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

[lace] Re: Bath-changing style of contemporary Needlelace 1970s onwards

[Jane Partridge]

I think where Pat Earnshaw was concerned, it would have been through study - on 
a visit to London, I met up with Elaine Merritt and we attended one of Pat's 
Tuesday afternoon talks at the V Afterwards, we had tea with her in the 
museum's tea room. During our discussion I discovered that Pat didn't actually 
make lace, she studied and wrote about it, and her stitch diagrams in her 
various technique books were from observation rather than experiment.

Devon, I've not come across the word 'diaper' in this context before (I thought 
it was a word used in the US for baby's nappies!), has it any other meanings? 
I'm taking it to mean the type of needlelace fabric produced in Hollie Point, 
where the pattern is formed by spaces, similar in effect to Assissi work in 
embroidery (and an absolute pain to work - Hollie Point was not an enjoyable 
part of the C course for me!).

Jane Partridge
I've been away for a few days, and am now trying to type with a cat draped 
across my arms!


Devon wrote:
 Pat Earnshaw's Needlelace, Merehurst Embroidery Skills book, 1992, relied more
heavily, even in contemporary work, on the buttonhole stitch, be it corded,
twisted, or multiply twisted. 

Perhaps this was a result of the continuing study of the techniques of
historical laces where there was not such a large repertoire of different
stitches. Perhaps these discoveries were then imported into contemporary
needle lace.
Devon

-

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] Color in lace

[Maria Greil]

Hello arachnians,

to the question why *black embroidery on shifts in Elizabethan times*: I
read in several English, German and Spanish books that
the black silk embroidery was introduced in England by the first wife of
Henry VIII who happened to be a Spaniard (Katherine of Aragon).
One of the reasons this was accepted may be: because '*the black dye did
not run'*.
If this is right, I do not know, but it could be.

Source: Janet Arnold: Patterns of Fashion 4, p. 8

Maria Greil
a German living in Spain



2018-04-03 20:13 GMT+02:00 Branwyn ni Druaidh :

> On Mon, Apr 2, 2018 at 7:29 PM,  wrote:
>
> >   Linen shifts and shirts were the next to the skin layer, and were meant
> > to be washed, so white would have to be the color of choice.  Remember
> that
> > in Germany clothes have been boiled in recent memory.  How this explains
> > the black embroidery on shifts in Elizabethan times I have no idea.
> > Lyn from Lancaster, Pennsylvania , USA, but presently in hot, sunny dry
> > Arizona, hoping that the weather back home will be good by the time we
> get
> > home.
> >
> >
> > ​The same way we explain a Lamborghini or Bugatti.  Embroidered items,
> like lace, were very expensive; from the creating them ("true" blacks were
> extremely hard to do in Elizabethan times) to the keeping them nice (many
> old records show a fortune for the time spent on laundry services).
>
> Just like today, a person who can afford the Bugatti or Lamborghini can
> also afford the upkeep, and think that getting 5 gallons/liters per
> mile/kilometer is a worthwhile trade for the joy of owning the car that
> purrs, the person who could afford the highly embroidered undergarments
> also considered it a worthwhile trade for the ability to show off their
> riches and social status.
>
> Jennifer in Colorado​
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> Per pale argent and purpure, two phoenixes counterchanged sable and argent
> each rising from flames proper.
>
> -
> To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
> unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
> arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
>

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

RE: [lace] Bath-changing style of contemporary Needlelace 1970s on

[DevonThein]

Cynthia makes an interesting observation, that in 1974 needle lace was
considered needle-work or embroidery.
Do you think it would be an accurate observation that the early contemporary
needle lace books from the 1970s, such as Jill Nordfors’s Needle Lace and
Needle Weaving and Bath’s book, had more varied stitches, derived from
embroidery, whereas later books like Catherine Barley’s 1993 and Pat
Earnshaw’s Needlelace, Merehurst Embroidery Skills book, 1992, relied more
heavily, even in contemporary work, on the buttonhole stitch, be it corded,
twisted, or multiply twisted. Pattern was being achieved, as historically was
the case, by making the buttonhole stitch in singles, or doubles and in pea
stitch. Patterns, such as diaper patterns where the pattern was an outline of
missing stitches forming a void were used. Solid areas with portes were also
used.
Perhaps this was a result of the continuing study of the techniques of
historical laces where there was not such a large repertoire of different
stitches. Perhaps these discoveries were then imported into contemporary
needle lace.
Devon

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] color in lace-Virginia Churchill Bath

[Cynce Williams]

At that time I was a member of embroidery guilds and needle lace was
considered needle-work or embroidery.

Cynthia


On Apr 3, 2018, at 12:53 PM, DevonThein  wrote:

> published in 1974 by my side. (I am now
> reading these books as historical documents of the 1970s lace revival,
whereas
> I first read them as contemporary “how to” books.)

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] Color in lace

[Branwyn ni Druaidh]

On Mon, Apr 2, 2018 at 7:29 PM,  wrote:

>   Linen shifts and shirts were the next to the skin layer, and were meant
> to be washed, so white would have to be the color of choice.  Remember that
> in Germany clothes have been boiled in recent memory.  How this explains
> the black embroidery on shifts in Elizabethan times I have no idea.
> Lyn from Lancaster, Pennsylvania , USA, but presently in hot, sunny dry
> Arizona, hoping that the weather back home will be good by the time we get
> home.
>
>
> ​The same way we explain a Lamborghini or Bugatti.  Embroidered items,
like lace, were very expensive; from the creating them ("true" blacks were
extremely hard to do in Elizabethan times) to the keeping them nice (many
old records show a fortune for the time spent on laundry services).

Just like today, a person who can afford the Bugatti or Lamborghini can
also afford the upkeep, and think that getting 5 gallons/liters per
mile/kilometer is a worthwhile trade for the joy of owning the car that
purrs, the person who could afford the highly embroidered undergarments
also considered it a worthwhile trade for the ability to show off their
riches and social status.

Jennifer in Colorado​





--
Per pale argent and purpure, two phoenixes counterchanged sable and argent
each rising from flames proper.

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] Color in lace - Bath's book

[Jeri Ames]

Every so often, I write a book review for an old book that is still relevant
and useful.  November 2016, I sent a review of Virginia Churchill Bath's 1974
LACE book to Arachne.  You can very easily locate it on the New England Lace
Group's web site by selecting Book Reviews from the menu on the left.  You
can see the colored lace of the book jacket, which is technically impossible
on Arachne.  It occurred to me that some of you might like to print the
review, and put in your copy of Bath's book.   
 
www.nelg.us 
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

 
In a message dated 4/3/2018 1:20:36 PM Eastern Standard Time,
d2one...@comcast.net writes:

 
 The original jacket cover on Lace by Virginia Churchill Bath (published 1974)
is of a fragment of colored lace flowers, identified in the book as from
Italy, 19th century. The author once remarked to a group of us that she
wondered why we were so awestruck when we saw the actual tiny piece in the
Chicago Art Institute's collection. but, of course, it was because at that
time we had not done lace in colors ourselves.

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

RE: [lace] color in lace-Virginia Churchill Bath

[DevonThein]

Thanks to Doris for her observation about the cover of Virginia Churchill
Bath’s book. I have this book, published in 1974 by my side. (I am now
reading these books as historical documents of the 1970s lace revival, whereas
I first read them as contemporary “how to” books.)
Does anyone know how she learned needle lace? Did she have a teacher? Did she
use books from earlier lace revivals?
I can’t think of anyone else who has done large needle lace. Maybe I am
blanking out on that, but it seems like working large is more likely to be a
bobbin lace thing.
It is unfortunate that most of the photos in the book are in black and white.
I would like to see the pieces in color.
Devon

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

[lace] color in lace

[DORIS O'NEILL]

The original jacket cover on Lace by Virginia Churchill Bath (published 1974) 
is of a fragment of colored  lace flowers, identified in the book as from 
Italy, 19th century.   The author once remarked to a group of us that she 
wondered why we were so awestruck when we saw the actual  tiny piece in the 
Chicago Art Institute's collection. but, of course, it was because at that time 
we had not done lace in colors ourselves.   

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

RE: [lace] Color in lace

[David C Collyer]

Dear Friends

Dyes have not been known for fastness until recently

I vividly recall that back in 1979 at an auction in Melbourne my friend bought 
a beautiful bright scarlet velvet dress from the 1860s. We placed it gently in 
the back of her car and by the time we got home to Belgrave (about 90 minutes) 
the entire rear seat of the car was bright red!! Goes without saying that no 
water ever went near that dress!
David Downunder in Ballarat, AUS

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] Lia Looga

[AGlez]

Although I did not know her personally, I also have a nice story to tell
about her. When one of my daughters was an Erasmus student in Norway, in
2009, she visited Estonia, and bought one of Lia Looga's jewellery books
for me! I did not even know there was lace in Estonia, but she found it
out! The book has always been a nice memory to me! I have never worked a
piece of jewellry from the book though. Perhaps it is now the moment, as a
homage to Lia... May she rest in peace.

Antje González
in Guadalajara, Spain
www.vueltaycruz.es

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

[lace] colour in lace

[Gon Homburg]

Kathleen wrote:

Some years ago I visited a village in southern Belgium which had specialised
in making black Chantilly lace. It’s name escapes me. The lace we saw was
fantastic, but we were told that there was little of it left, because the
black dye used to colour the thread, (or maybe the process used) rotted the
thread over time. I wonder if anyone else has heard this, and also, what dye
was used?

The town in southern Belgium is Geraadsbergen. There they make or made black
Chantilly lace.
The silk was dyed with iron oxide to make it black. This rotted the silk, so
very few old black Chantilly laces of other old black laces are left.
There are also metallic laces in which the metal thread was originally wound
up with black silk. Now the black silk is rotten away and only the metallic
lace is left.

Happy lacing


Gon Homburg, in a wet Amsterdam, The Netherlands, where finally spring
arrives.

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

[lace] Lia Looga

[miriam gidron]

I met Lia at the OIDFA congress in Prague, she spoke very little English
and tried to figure out how to use a public telehone and asked for my
help.  Since then we have been in touch . I have one of her books which I
used several times. She  was a wonderful lace maker and a wonderful person.

May she rest in peace.

Miriam
In Arad
Israel

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] Colour in lace

[Catherine Barley]

Yes I've heard that too Kathleen - Perhaps it was Nenia Lovesey who told us?

Catherine Barley Needlelace
www.catherinebarley.com

Original message

Subject : [lace] Colour in lace

Some years ago I visited a village in southern Belgium which had specialised in 
making black Chantilly lace. It’s name escapes me. The lace we saw was 
fantastic, but we were told that there was little of it left, because the black 
dye used to colour the thread, (or maybe the process used) rotted the thread 
over time. I wonder if anyone else has heard this, and also, what dye was used?

Kathleen, in a damp and dreary Berkshire, UK.

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

[lace] Colour in lace

[Kathleen Harris]

Some years ago I visited a village in southern Belgium which had specialised in 
making black Chantilly lace. It’s name escapes me. The lace we saw was 
fantastic, but we were told that there was little of it left, because the black 
dye used to colour the thread, (or maybe the process used) rotted the thread 
over time. I wonder if anyone else has heard this, and also, what dye was used?

Kathleen, in a damp and dreary Berkshire, UK.


Sent from my iPad

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/