RE: [lace] 13th cent needlelace from China?

2004-11-19 Thread Bridget Marrow
Thank you, Devon, for the Met Museum link.  Its a wonderful piece and the 
photography is awesome.

http://www.metmuseum.org/Works_Of_Art/viewOne.asp?dep=20viewmode=0item=1987.277
A few years ago I saw a similar peice of Chinese needlelace at an antique 
dealer's in London.  It was dated early 14th century, the colours were as 
fresh as the day it was made.  The design was floral, more naturalistic than 
the Met piece, quite similar to later Chinese satin stitch embroideries.  
But the stitch was definitely detatched buttonhole.

The dealer showed me another example in a beautiful (very expensive) book on 
Chinese embroidery.  Alas, I could afford neither the book nor the 
embroidery!  I tried (with permission) to take photographs, but it was 
framed, behind glass and rather high up, so there was no chance of getting 
detail.

As others have said, this was the time of Marco Polo and the beginnings of 
trade between Europe and the Far East.  Even though the (male) explorers may 
not have been particularly interested in embroidery, some pieces must have 
been brought  back.  The only puzzle is why it took the Venetians so long to 
realise the potential of detatched buttonhole stitch and to develop it into 
their own art form - the exquisite needlelace which took fashionable Europe 
by storm in the 16th century.

Bridget in Watford, England
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RE: [lace] 13th cent needlelace from China?

2004-11-18 Thread David Collyer
Dear Friends,
My first thought was When did Marco Polo go to China?  Sure enough, his 
dates are 1254-1324.  Trade is always a two way street.  While I don't 
necessarily think that it was Marco Polo or his father or their expedition 
that was the most likely contact point, I do think that traders and 
travellers could have introduced some European needle work in that period.
My first thoughts too were of Marco Polo. His biography by McDONALD is well 
worth a read. But then, why would you think that European needlework was 
introduced as a result of his contact. Couldn it not just as easily have 
been the other way round?? Chinese influence came to Europe?

Similar arguments have been produced regarding other such things as noodles 
(spaghetti); roses and wisteria
Love
David in Ballarat

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Re: [lace] 13th cent needlelace from China?

2004-11-17 Thread Dmt11home
In a message dated 11/16/2004 2:48:14 PM Eastern Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

I do  think that traders and travellers could have introduced some European 
needle  work in that period.
I was thinking about Marco Polo, et al, too. But it really hadn't occurred  
to me that the technique was traveling to China from Europe but rather the 
other  way around. 
 
One problem is that I tend to associate these diamond patterns in the  work 
more with 17th century lace. 16th century lace is usually pretty solid  
looking. In fact, I just very unscientifically went through the plates in  
Levey and 
the first time I see this diamond phenomenon is in plate 183, dated  second 
half of the 17th century. So, in this case they are doing things in China  in 
the 13th or 14th century, that Europeans are doing in the 17th. 
 
However, the use of the interior diamond patterns may be a natural  
development that happens if the area of detached buttonhole stitch is  large.
 
Devon
 
Devon

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[lace] 13th cent needlelace from China?

2004-11-16 Thread Dmt11home
Since the list is quiet, perhaps I could introduce a subject that has me  
intriqued. The other day I saw a textile at the MMA which looks just like  
needlelace, being made of detached buttonhole stitch, but dates from the Yuan  
dynasty(1279-1368). I know that looping stiches have been made in the past. I  
have 
even seen some looped net bags in the American Southwest, but this piece so  
resembles Italian Needlelace, especially in its diamond shaped geometrical  
patterns that it is really quite stunning. To see the piece go to 
_http://www.metmuseum.org/Works_Of_Art/viewOne.asp?dep=20viewmode=0item=1987.277_
 
(http://www.metmuseum.org/Works_Of_Art/viewOne.asp?dep=20viewmode=0item=1987.277)
 
You can enlarge with a zoom, which helps. 
I had earlier seen on the wall at the Cooper-Hewitt in the non-public  areas, 
a huge enlarged poster of what appeared to be similar Chinese Needlelace  
depicting a figure. Recently I asked about it and was told that it was actually 
 
a small patch on a spectacular Chinese robe, dating, I believe to about the 
same  period.
In both cases the needlelace is set against a gold leaf background for  
ultimate glow effect.
 
Co-incidence? Clue to origin? Thoughts anyone?
 
Devon

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[lace] 13th cent needlelace from China?

2004-11-16 Thread Margot Walker
From the picture, it looks like embroidery to me - I can't see any 
detached buttonhole stitch..  I guess you have to see it in person.  It 
is a beautiful piece though.

On Tuesday, November 16, 2004, at 10:20  AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
The other day I saw a textile at the MMA which looks just like
needlelace, being made of detached buttonhole stitch, but dates from 
the Yuan
dynasty(1279-1368). I know that looping stiches have been made in the 
past. I  have
even seen some looped net bags in the American Southwest, but this 
piece so
resembles Italian Needlelace, especially in its diamond shaped 
geometrical
patterns that it is really quite stunning.
Margot Walker in Halifax on the east coast of Canada
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RE: [lace] 13th cent needlelace from China?

2004-11-16 Thread Patricia Dowden
Dear Devon,

My first thought was When did Marco Polo go to China?  Sure enough, his dates 
are 1254-1324.  Trade is always a two way street.  While I don't necessarily 
think that it was Marco Polo or his father or their expedition that was the 
most likely contact point, I do think that traders and travellers could have 
introduced some European needle work in that period.  As early as it is, the 
Chinese work could be a parallel development that petered out because it didn't 
suit the Chinese taste.  A lot of Chinese embroidery uses filament silk in 
acres of satin stitch for lustrous, lavish show.  The stitching required in 
this piece creates a much more matte appearance, even with the gold backup 
group!  

As for the appearance of the work, I think it looks more like Hollie Point.  
And I just love the color shading.  (Color should be my middle name.)

The edges of each element seem to be worked in an even button hole stitch, but 
not so closely worked as Point de Venise.  For me, this opens the question of 
whether the motif elements were worked separately and then applied or whether 
they are worked directly on the foundation fabric.  If the former, it is a form 
of lace, if the latter, it is a form of embroidery tantalizing close to lace.

My experience of Chinese textiles is that the rich embroideries are not nearly 
as 3-D as the European needle laces became.  The Chinese embroidery is 
sumptuous but essentially flat and full of shine.  (But I may have lead a 
sheltered life.)

Musingly,

Patty Dowden



Devon wrote:
 
Since the list is quiet, perhaps I could introduce a subject that has me  
intriqued. The other day I saw a textile at the MMA which looks just like  
needlelace, being made of detached buttonhole stitch, but dates from the Yuan  
dynasty(1279-1368). I know that looping stiches have been made in the past. I  
have 
even seen some looped net bags in the American Southwest, but this piece so  
resembles Italian Needlelace, especially in its diamond shaped geometrical  
patterns that it is really quite stunning. To see the piece go to 
(http://www.metmuseum.org/Works_Of_Art/viewOne.asp?dep=20viewmode=0item=1987.277)
 
You can enlarge with a zoom, which helps. 
I had earlier seen on the wall at the Cooper-Hewitt in the non-public  areas, 
a huge enlarged poster of what appeared to be similar Chinese Needlelace  
depicting a figure. Recently I asked about it and was told that it was actually 
 
a small patch on a spectacular Chinese robe, dating, I believe to about the 
same  period.
In both cases the needlelace is set against a gold leaf background for  
ultimate glow effect.
 
Co-incidence? Clue to origin? Thoughts anyone?
 
Devon

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Re: [lace] 13th cent needlelace from China?

2004-11-16 Thread Sue Babbs
Yes, it does look like needle lace when you zoom in. I, too, thought it 
reminded me of Hollie Point (but in colour not just white). How wonderful.

Sue Babbs
As for the appearance of the work, I think it looks more like Hollie 
Point.  


resembles Italian Needlelace, especially in its diamond shaped geometrical
patterns that it is really quite stunning. To see the piece go to
(http://www.metmuseum.org/Works_Of_Art/viewOne.asp?dep=20viewmode=0item=1987.277)
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