[lace] Rauma Lace Week
While doing travel research on the web, I found that Rauma, Finland, has a Lace Week that's really nine days long. This year it starts tomorrow (July 20) and goes until July 28. There are lace displays in many places with people demo-ing, plus many other events. If this is held the same time next year, it would be the week leading up to the OIDFA Congress -- the week they offer classes. For a person not taking a class, it would be a fun visit before attending the Congress. If it were only a week earlier next year, it would be a great extension to an OIDFA trip, and not very far from Estonia. I'm still looking for more lace events next year in July in Northern Europe. Alice in Oregon -- where it's warm and hazy but not wet. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Rauma lace
Very nice Susan. Rauma looks similar to Beds.  A very nice pattern. Janice Janice Blair Murrieta, CA, jblace.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Rauma lace & climbing Halti
Finally had time to take a look. That is really pretty lace, and well done, too. Lyn from Lancaster, Pennsylvania, USA, where the weather has finally settled into seasonal. Warm, sunny. My antique roses smell heavenly. Susan wrote: Hello All! With much help from Arachne, I finally finished my first piece of Rauma lace--Kustaa Adolflai. It is posted to Flickr. Here's what I learned--there are many types of crossings & not all of them are in Practical Skills. Alex Stillwell came to my rescue so that issue was beautifully resolved. Next was running out of thread. Out of twenty-five pairs, I had to replace 4 pairs--ugh. Note to self--no matter how much thread you estimate, it always takes more! Thank you for your suggestions as to where to hide my new thread. I ended up using the plaits & I am very pleased with the results. While I wouldn't say I've conquered leaves, these are much better than my last effort & I'm looking forward to further improvement. The working direction of this lace was a big challenge for me & now that I see it off the pillow, the tension is incorrect in a number of areas. So--much remains to be learned! If anyone else is interested in learning Rauma lace, there are two ! nice sites that are worth a visit. www.raumalace.fi & nyplaajat.net. Raumalace has a short video that illustrates the three-pair edge & nyplaajat has a variety of pdfs of finished lace. FYI--Halti is the highest point in Finland & I felt like I climbed it on my way to Rauma! Sincerely, Susan Hottle USA - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Rauma lace & climbing Halti
Hello All! With much help from Arachne, I finally finished my first piece of Rauma lace--Kustaa Adolflai. It is posted to Flickr. Here's what I learned--there are many types of crossings & not all of them are in Practical Skills. Alex Stillwell came to my rescue so that issue was beautifully resolved. Next was running out of thread. Out of twenty-five pairs, I had to replace 4 pairs--ugh. Note to self--no matter how much thread you estimate, it always takes more! Thank you for your suggestions as to where to hide my new thread. I ended up using the plaits & I am very pleased with the results. While I wouldn't say I've conquered leaves, these are much better than my last effort & I'm looking forward to further improvement. The working direction of this lace was a big challenge for me & now that I see it off the pillow, the tension is incorrect in a number of areas. So--much remains to be learned! If anyone else is interested in learning Rauma lace, there are two ! nice sites that are worth a visit. www.raumalace.fi & nyplaajat.net. Raumalace has a short video that illustrates the three-pair edge & nyplaajat has a variety of pdfs of finished lace. FYI--Halti is the highest point in Finland & I felt like I climbed it on my way to Rauma! Sincerely, Susan Hottle USA - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Rauma lace,
Many thanks Janis! Yes, there are MILES of plaits in Rauma lace, hence my reference to Bedfordshire. Although I own some Bedfordshire books, I've never actually worked that lace. Rauma lace is new to me as well so this has been a steep leaning curve! Another Arachnean also recommended hiding the new thread in a plait so I will try that idea first--especially since I'm not near a leaf at the moment. My first inclination was to hide it in a giant crossing as I just came thru a six-pair & could easily back up a bit. I can never imagine what the best solution might be, but going forward instead of backward sounds like a better plan. Thanks for lending a hand. Sincerely, Susan Hottle USA. Sent from my iPad > On May 4, 2017, at 1:13 PM, Janis Savage <thelacepl...@hotmail.co.za> wrote: > > Hi Susan > > If your lace with tallies has plaits as well, like Bedfordshire, I find that a new thread can be hidden in a plait. > > Just add the new thread to the plait along with the old one. Do 2 or 3 cross, twists. depending on the length of the plait then throw out the old thread and continue. Cut off the end of the old and beginning of the new threads later when no tension will pull on it. If your plait is tensioned nice and tight, the join will not show and it will be held very firmly. > > I hope this helps > Janis in Honeydew, South Africa > > > Hello All! For the past few weeks, I have been slowly working my way thru the Kustaa Adolflai pattern for an exhibit of Finnish lace. It has been quite a challenge because I've never worked this type of lace AND it has an abundance of leaf tallies. At long last, I am getting the tallies under control thanks to Jean Leader's video & Practical Skills! Today, one of my bobbins is running out of thread. What to do? The lace is so skinny, there really isn't a good spot to exchange a thread. I looked in my Bedfordshire books but did not see a specific reference for this issue. Do the experts have a "best case" solution for this problem? Many thanks for any suggestions. Sincerely, Susan Hottle - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Rauma lace,
Hi Susan If your lace with tallies has plaits as well, like Bedfordshire, I find that a new thread can be hidden in a plait. Just add the new thread to the plait along with the old one. Do 2 or 3 cross, twists. depending on the length of the plait then throw out the old thread and continue. Cut off the end of the old and beginning of the new threads later when no tension will pull on it. If your plait is tensioned nice and tight, the join will not show and it will be held very firmly. I hope this helps Janis in Honeydew, South Africa Hello All! For the past few weeks, I have been slowly working my way thru the Kustaa Adolflai pattern for an exhibit of Finnish lace. It has been quite a challenge because I've never worked this type of lace AND it has an abundance of leaf tallies. At long last, I am getting the tallies under control thanks to Jean Leader's video & Practical Skills! Today, one of my bobbins is running out of thread. What to do? The lace is so skinny, there really isn't a good spot to exchange a thread. I looked in my Bedfordshire books but did not see a specific reference for this issue. Do the experts have a "best case" solution for this problem? Many thanks for any suggestions. Sincerely, Susan Hottle - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Rauma lace
Thank you Karen! I think I understand your explanation. It sounds like you are disguising the beginning of the new thread at a point where leaf tallies are clustered. That would make sense because there's a lot happening in a tally "flower". You are clearly fearless in the tally department while I still need to make at least 985 more to be proficient! Thanks again for your suggestion. Sincerely, Susan Hottle Sent from my iPad - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Rauma lace
When I have a lot of tallies in my work, and I do MANY tallies, I usually try to hide a knot in the centre of the tally. I switch threads, if need be, with a tally passive. Alternatively, if this is not positive and the thread is fine, I put the knot up and out of the work by lengthening the thread and support it on a pin. I carry on working as usual and then, eventually, cut that thread close to the pin and knot it, placing the knot as close to the work as usual. Since we work on the 'wrong side' of the lace, the knot is then on the underside of the work. Hope this reply is helpful and that I have explained myself clearly enough. Karen in Malta - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Rauma lace
Hello All! For the past few weeks, I have been slowly working my way thru the Kustaa Adolflai pattern for an exhibit of Finnish lace. It has been quite a challenge because I've never worked this type of lace AND it has an abundance of leaf tallies. At long last, I am getting the tallies under control thanks to Jean Leader's video & Practical Skills! Today, one of my bobbins is running out of thread. What to do? The lace is so skinny, there really isn't a good spot to exchange a thread. I looked in my Bedfordshire books but did not see a specific reference for this issue. Do the experts have a "best case" solution for this problem? Many thanks for any suggestions. Sincerely, Susan Hottle USA Sent from my iPad - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Rauma lace and Kortelahti
>I only know that Rauma was an important bobbin lace making area. I think the >lace was largely torchon with some guipure elements. I suspect Kortelahti's >work style derives from that tradition. I have a couple books of Rauma lace patterns but I don't have them right at hand. My memory of reading them is that Rauma lace is on the Torchon style. The thing I remember best is that they figured out that most edgings tend to pull up a bit on the footside and ruffle slightly on the headside. They wanted flat handkerchiefs with flat lace, so worked out a solution. Their corners are a few degrees off of 90 degrees. When the lace is forced to fit a 90 degree corner, it flattens out that extra bit of ruffle. Kortelahti's style is based on the Early 20th Century Dutch Lace development. When I got that book, I could see elements of the Kortelahti lace all through it. My guess is that she learned from someone who learned from the Dutch school. She adds some of her own tweeks to it. I have done lots of her lace, and some from the Dutch book. It's probably my favorite style of lace, though I do a bit of many kinds. Alice in Oregon -- where we are having (finally) a week of sunshine. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Rauma lace corners
It's not so much the pattern that affects how a corner will lie, it's the stitch combinations used to work up the patter that matters. To prove this try working a torchon sample, with a 90 degree corner. Work it once with the standard CTpCT ground and again with CTCTpCTCT. Allow both samples to relax, lay them on a flat surface and measure the angle of the corner. Almost certainly the angle of the CTCTpCTCT sample will be smaller than the CTpCT sample, especially if the thread used is a bit on the thick side for the pattern. I saw this happen quite dramatically several years ago, a student had a long-term project (between other pieces of lace) of making a table cloth edging about 3 inches wide. Her working, and tension was good but the finished lace was not. Although it laid flat each side curved inwards to accommodate a corner angle considerably less than 90 degrees. After much thought we decided that it was because she had worked CTCTpCTCT ground and also used a thread just a little bit too thick for the pricking. When the pins, and therefore the tension, were removed the lace spread out to it's 'natural' size. It probably shrank widthways, but the extra length of a CTCTpCTCT stitch caused it to *stretch* lengthways. If it had been just a straight length the change in shape just wouldn't have been noticed. Brenda On 12 Jan 2007, at 01:55, Alice Howell wrote: The amount of 'stretch' in a pattern and/or thread could affect how much extra, added to the 90 degrees, would be needed for a flat application. The Rauma lace book used 3 degrees extra, but I can understand that a different lace/pattern could take more. 103 degree corner would flatten out quite a bit of ruffle when pulled in to 90 degrees on the fabric. Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Rauma lace
Rauma lace now that is a new one for me can you give us a little bit more info on this (see it works both ways doesn't it) Happy lacing Sue M Harvey Rauma lace is combination of Torchon and Cluny/Beds. It's made of linen thread. Only handkerchief laces are made of cotton thread. Handkerchief laces of Rauma resemble Bucks Point Lace. All laces that are made at Rauma are continuous laces. Check also: http://lace.lacefairy.com/International/Finlandmap.html -Maria - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Fw: [lace] Rauma lace
I was pleased to see this because it was my question too. Sue T, Dorset UK Rauma lace now that is a new one for me can you give us a little bit more info on this (see it works both ways doesn't it) Happy lacing Sue M Harvey Rauma lace is combination of Torchon and Cluny/Beds. It's made of linen thread. Only handkerchief laces are made of cotton thread. Handkerchief laces of Rauma resemble Bucks Point Lace. All laces that are made at Rauma are continuous laces. Check also: http://lace.lacefairy.com/International/Finlandmap.html -Maria - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Rauma lace corners
There's two or three books of Rauma lace available -- straight edgings with corners added for hankies. Mine are hiding in the bookshelf right now and I couldn't find them so I'm writing from memory. Rauma is the only lace that figured out that the headside of the lace stretches more than the footside. Because of this, the corners of a hanky square are not 90 degrees. Rather, the corners are drawn three degrees wider. A square pricking cannot be made, like in Torchon. The start and end will not quite meet on paper when the four sides are taped together, but when forced together at the end, the lace will lie flat when finished. Forcing the 93 degrees lace to lie at 90 degrees will stretch the headside just enough for a flat finish. I have carried this concept to my other laces when making hanky squares. Open the corner angle just a bit and ease the headside pin spread a bit closer together. The finished lace lies flatter than previous Torchon hankies. Try it some time. And buy a Rauma lace book. The patterns are lovely. Alice in Oregon -- with 3 inches of fresh snow, and still falling. Snow to end soon but it'll stay cold. My cat's fascinated by the snowflakes out the window. Rauma lace is combination of Torchon and Cluny/Beds. It's made of linen thread. Only handkerchief laces are made of cotton thread. Handkerchief laces of Rauma resemble Bucks Point Lace. All laces that are made at Rauma are continuous laces. -Maria - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Rauma lace corners
Synchronicity! With my back issues of OIDFA bulletins out - I chanced on the article in Bulletin 1 - 2003 by Leena Haukanheimo, corners in point ground lace - but specifically Rauma. she wonders if other (point ground) laces used a wider angle at the corner, too. It all started with a person who was doing 'the dull work' of attaching lace to fabric, that she noticed corners weren't lying flat as they should be. IN her subsequent experiments with corner samples in different laces, she found that the wider the lace and the wavier the outer edge, the greater the compensation (in angle) required for the corner. Buckspoint corners aren't precise 45-degree turns (as in Torchon) but bulge outwards with an extra wedgeshape, which is worked often with extra pairs. I believe that is how the Buckspoint lace designers latterly solved the problem of the corner not lying flat. I will mention that 'corners' are recent - that traditionally edgings, if they would go around corners, were gathered. On 1/11/07, Alice Howell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Rauma is the only lace that figured out that the headside of the lace stretches more than the footside. Because of this, the corners of a hanky square are not 90 degrees. Rather, the corners are drawn three degrees wider. Try it some time. And buy a Rauma lace book. The patterns are lovely. Yes :) -- Bev in Sooke BC on a crisp bright sunny day (there *is* blue sky on Vancouver Island, west coast of Canada) blogging lace at www.looonglace.blogspot.com - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Rauma lace corners
Now this new thread (the true angle at corners...) is fascinating to me. Not long ago, I worked a handkerchief, and was aware from the beginning that the angle at the corner was *less* than 90 degrees. This made me curious, but I continued to work the pattern. The lace was, BTW, about 1.5 wide... and the lace was Binche. What I found, when the joining and the mounting were done, was that the acute angle of the corner, when attached to a true 90-degree handkerchief, forced the corner to relax and lie very well, not strained in any direction. Based on that experience, it would seem to me that a corner worked with an obtuse angle would force the outside (headside) edge to cup when joined and mounted. UNLESS (if I'm reading correctly), the particular difficulties presented by Bucks Point corners require the obtuse angle to offset the ruffle created by the Bucks corner. I'd be very interested in other observations!! Clay bevw wrote: Synchronicity! With my back issues of OIDFA bulletins out - I chanced on the article in Bulletin 1 - 2003 by Leena Haukanheimo, corners in point ground lace - but specifically Rauma. she wonders if other (point ground) laces used a wider angle at the corner, too. It all started with a person who was doing 'the dull work' of attaching lace to fabric, that she noticed corners weren't lying flat as they should be. IN her subsequent experiments with corner samples in different laces, she found that the wider the lace and the wavier the outer edge, the greater the compensation (in angle) required for the corner. Buckspoint corners aren't precise 45-degree turns (as in Torchon) but bulge outwards with an extra wedgeshape, which is worked often with extra pairs. I believe that is how the Buckspoint lace designers latterly solved the problem of the corner not lying flat. I will mention that 'corners' are recent - that traditionally edgings, if they would go around corners, were gathered. On 1/11/07, Alice Howell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Rauma is the only lace that figured out that the headside of the lace stretches more than the footside. Because of this, the corners of a hanky square are not 90 degrees. Rather, the corners are drawn three degrees wider. Try it some time. And buy a Rauma lace book. The patterns are lovely. Yes :) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Rauma lace corners
Based on that experience, it would seem to me that a corner worked with an obtuse angle would force the outside (headside) edge to cup when joined and mounted. UNLESS (if I'm reading correctly), the particular difficulties presented by Bucks Point corners require the obtuse angle to offset the ruffle created by the Bucks corner. um, ya. In Leena's article, she shows two corners prickings. One is a 90 degree corner. When it was made up and attached to a piece of fabric, the flat angle at the inside corner is 81 degrees. The other is a 103 degree corner. When it was made up and attached to fabric, the corner was a pleasing 90 degrees. Buckspoint evidently takes the opposite approach - the business at the headside is broadened to allow for the turn (I'm now thinking of how a marching band turns a corner - the folks on the inside take small steps or march in place, and those at the outside take long strides), and let the inside corner remain at 90 degrees. I was curious about the particular angle used for working the point grounds. In the PG study book, Buckspoint is listed as varying from 52 to 70; Rauma, 45 - 60 degrees. Now I need to measure the angle of ground used by Leena for her corner examples! I'll be back. -- Bev with finally a sunset to admire, after days of murk, in Sooke BC (on Vancouver Island, west coast of Canada) blogging lace at www.looonglace.blogspot.com - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Rauma lace corners
On Jan 11, 2007, at 18:53, Clay Blackwell wrote: Now this new thread (the true angle at corners...) is fascinating to me. Me too, since I've never heard of either method (widening or narrowing the angle) of coping with a problem I hadn't even noticed :) Not long ago, I worked a handkerchief, and was aware from the beginning that the angle at the corner was *less* than 90 degrees. At *which point* of the corner? Footside or headside? Because, if it was at the footside, then there's no real contradiction between that and the Rauma solution, which (if I understand Alice's description correctly) widens the angle at the headside -- either way, there's a degree of off 90deg calculated into the finished corner; it's just two different ways to skin the same cat :) Of course, my lack of geometry skills and imagination (turn a square 360deg; what shape to you get? had me sitting in class, weeping) is something that nearly kept me in highschool forever, so I could be wrong... -- Tamara P Duvallhttp://t-n-lace.net/ Lexington, Virginia, USA (Formerly of Warsaw, Poland) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Rauma lace corners
--- bevw [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: In Leena's article, she shows two corners prickings. One is a 90 degree corner. When it was made up and attached to a piece of fabric, the flat angle at the inside corner is 81 degrees. The other is a 103 degree corner. When it was made up and attached to fabric, the corner was a pleasing 90 degrees. Clarify, please. When making a hanky, and putting lace on four sides of a square evenly, each finished corner would have the lace sewn on at 90 degrees. How can you have a finished square corner with 81 degrees? The amount of 'stretch' in a pattern and/or thread could affect how much extra, added to the 90 degrees, would be needed for a flat application. The Rauma lace book used 3 degrees extra, but I can understand that a different lace/pattern could take more. 103 degree corner would flatten out quite a bit of ruffle when pulled in to 90 degrees on the fabric. I guess a person could test this by making a hanky edging with each corner at a different angle, then see which corner lay flattest. Hmmm...I have some hanky edges to make. This could be an interesting experiment to spice up a routine project. Alice in Oregon --very cold after the snow stopped - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Rauma lace corners
On 1/11/07, Alice Howell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: How can you have a finished square corner with 81 degrees? My mistake - it wasn't sewn to fabric. It was placed flat and the angle measured - so ignore the bit about sewing to fabric. Yes, the wider the lace, the more correction will be required, whichever approach is taken. I guess a person could test this by making a hanky edging with each corner at a different angle, then see which corner lay flattest. A good test. This is what the lacemaker did for the point ground examples in the OIDFA article. FWIW the grid angle seems to be 52 in the two examples. The lace pattern which was tested is 6 cm. wide. I should also clarify that she did her tests based on the work by another lacemaker who made corrections for Rauma Torchon edgings with corners. I am not familiar with Rauma Torchon, to know why the corners would not be strictly on the diagonal, as I would expect Torchon to be. Something else to pursue! -- Bev in Sooke BC (on Vancouver Island, west coast of Canada) Cdn. floral bobbins www.woodhavenbobbins.com blogging lace at www.looonglace.blogspot.com - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
