[lace] Prickings for patterns from 44-year-old book?
Greetings all, I've found some very nice photos of finished lace in a book written in 1973 in Swedish, called Knypplerskan, by Inga-Lisa Olsson. Our guild library has volumes 1, 2, & 3. There is an English translation tucked in each volume too. In the back there is a "list of the patterns which can be purchased for the illustrated laces in this book." But no idea how to go about that. I found some e-books online, which I've never dealt with before, and I don't know if they are just the books (which I have at hand), or if they would also contain the patterns. Any ideas? Thank you, Sally in Oregon where it is supposed to be in the mid-90's Fahrenheit tomorrow - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Prickings
Hi Arachnids When making Flora Bucks I photocopy my pricking onto coloured paper and stick it to a thin coloured card, one that I know will stand up to my tension. I pre-prick the ground and fillings to make sure they are regular but prick-as-I-go around the motifs. That gives the the possibility of moving pinholes when I wish to. A cautionary note. The narrow edging in my christening bonnet booklet was made on an antique parchment and moving pins was not an option. The pricking has been very well made and the repeats accurate so I had to use the pins as determined in the parchment. It was a very interesting lesson on interpreting a pattern with unusual results. Blow the dust, lets make lace Alex - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] ] Prickings
Leonard, a now sadly gone old lacemaker who learned the craft in Northern England many, many years ago, was taught to just draw out the pattern with lines, and then put up the pins where necessary as she worked! I saw her patterns and also her work, - and it was just as good as those of us who place pins in dots!!! Certainly move the pin holes if necessary to get the lace more even, and more to your own liking. I am a bit of a rebel in this - I use the pattern and dots as Guide lines, and if I feel a pin hole needs to be moved a fraction - then I move it!! Regards from Liz in Melbourne, Oz. lizl...@bigpond.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Prickings
Dear All One further thought on prickings: I am working on/working out a fairly complex Beds pattern, and am at present on version 3.  I have pricked out, from the paper draft, the pinholes for the pattern features and trails, and foot and headside, but on Mrs Underwood's advice, just marked where the veins in the leaf and plaits would go, pricking the holes for the veins and picots on the plaits, as needed and where needed.  This allows some scope for moving plaits slightly to start or finish in a more convenient place, and again, how a leaf is attacked will affect where the vein's pinholes go; there she said to treat an old pricking's pinholes as suggestions, not orders.  This works best, I should think, on traditional card with permanent ink markings and no covering film.  Using permanent ink means a bottle of white typing correction fluid finds a place in my work box... I think this is similar to the Honiton approach, where of course thick card pre-pricked is traditional, to allow the use of a straight needlepin for sewings: the  fillings are often pricked in on the pillow when the surrounding work is completed, to allow the holes to be shifted slightly for ease of working. I think it depends on whether you make lace like a train, following the tracks, a trolley bus, with some scope for deviation, or a car, with the freedom of the road!  I sometimes imitate the (UK, not Dutch) bicycle - ignore the one way street signs, traffic lights, and use the pavements if it suits! leonard...@yahoo.com, who doesn't ride a bike, but has some unpleasant close encounters with them on the pavements of London - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Prickings
Sorry not to snip but need both posts to explain my answer. When I make a mistake on the lines on my pricking, I very, very gently scratch the line out and the rub the offending place down with the wooden end of my bulbous pricker. After I've made my first piece of lace with the pricking you wouldn't know the was a correction. Correction fluid can flake do I avoid it but not to say it's not right for others. L Kind Regards, Liz Baker On 16 Jun 2015, at 09:04, Brenda Paternoster paternos...@appleshack.com wrote: Can you still get that now? If not a small tube of acrylic paint could be substituted, but choose an opaque colour, not a transparent one! Yellow ochre is opaque as is titanium white. Brenda On 16 Jun 2015, at 08:33, Leonard Bazar leonard...@yahoo.com wrote: Using permanent ink means a bottle of white typing correction fluid finds a place in my work box... Brenda in Allhallows paternos...@appleshack.com www.brendapaternoster.co.uk - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/ - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Prickings
Can you still get that now? If not a small tube of acrylic paint could be substituted, but choose an opaque colour, not a transparent one! Yellow ochre is opaque as is titanium white. Brenda On 16 Jun 2015, at 08:33, Leonard Bazar leonard...@yahoo.com wrote: Using permanent ink means a bottle of white typing correction fluid finds a place in my work box... Brenda in Allhallows paternos...@appleshack.com www.brendapaternoster.co.uk - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Prickings
Hi Arachnids If you use a good quality pricking card, not necessarily a thick one, your holes will not enlarge and you will be able to reuse it many times. Hence, no need for plastic. Happy lacemaking Alex P.S. Check that your pricker needle has the same diameter as your pins. Then the pins will pass through easily and at the same time they will be held firmly upright and not wobble as they would if the holes were larger, much better than relying on the plastic to reduce their size. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Prickings
Hi Beth Re: Copying a brown pattern-clear contact paper - I still prefer to prick my patterns the traditional way ... It is good to see some lacemakers are continuing to make good prickings, as you say, you learn a lot about the pattern by doing so. I can understand why needle lacemakers use plastic covering on their patterns, they need it to prevent their needles from getting caught on the paper, but am puzzled why so many continue to use it on bobbin lace prickings. When access to photocopying first became cheap enough for lace teachers to use for passing on patterns to students coloured paper was not an option, also the print would easily smudge. Hence we used plastic to seal the print and the colour the background when using white thread. Now that coloured paper is easily accessible and print does not come off it is no longer necessary. Using plastic makes it harder to prick patterns, harder to insert pins and can result in sticky pins. So, why use it ? Happy lacemaking Alex - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Prickings
And I found that my carefully pricked holes closed up in the plastic cover. Cynthia On Jun 8, 2015, at 4:47 PM, Alex Stillwell alexstillw...@talktalk.net wrote: Hi Beth Re: Copying a brown pattern-clear contact paper - I still prefer to prick my patterns the traditional way ... It is good to see some lacemakers are continuing to make good prickings, as you say, you learn a lot about the pattern by doing so. I can understand why needle lacemakers use plastic covering on their patterns, they need it to prevent their needles from getting caught on the paper, but am puzzled why so many continue to use it on bobbin lace prickings. When access to photocopying first became cheap enough for lace teachers to use for passing on patterns to students coloured paper was not an option, also the print would easily smudge. Hence we used plastic to seal the print and the colour the background when using white thread. Now that coloured paper is easily accessible and print does not come off it is no longer necessary. Using plastic makes it harder to prick patterns, harder to insert pins and can result in sticky pins. So, why use it ? Happy lacemaking Alex - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/ - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
RE: [lace] Prickings
I'm assuming laser dots are colour fast? I use a HP Laserjet 1022 and no, it is not color fast. In fact I can even erase it off the paper. Susie in Illinois cjohnson0...@comcast.net - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Prickings
Reply all: We were told to use it because the black dots can transfer ink if using home based ink jet printers. So the plastic is used to protect the dots. I'm assuming laser dots are colour fast? Also the plastic cover keeps the pricking holes from getting larger or losing accuracy due placing pins somewhere near the actual dot. Plus if we are into saving and not wasting etc. we can use the same pricking many times. May all your dreams be in colour! Jocelyn in Canada Sent from my iPhone - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Prickings (why use plastic)
Alex Stillwell alexstillw...@talktalk.net wrote: but am puzzled why so many continue to use it on bobbin lace prickings. I usually cover my prickings with clear plastic, for several reasons: 1. As others have said, to protect from moisture. Those of us living in dry climates (humidity here can be so far below 1% that instruments register it as 0!) sometimes need to rehydrate the threads, and don't want to risk the paper pricking getting warped. 2. Many printers can't take heavy card stock, so my patterns are on paper (I prefer gray background). I reinforce the paper, sometimes by putting card stock under it and plastic over it, with the plastic and cardstock sticking together beyond the edges of the pattern. This method I use for yardage on a roller pillow, where I will be re-using the holes many times. For a motif that I may make once or just a few times, I put plastic over and under the paper, without the card stock. 3. The plastic makes holes sturdier, so the plastic makes finding a pinhole easier when there's a forest of pins or poor lighting, and the pinhole location remains accurate when you re-use that hole. 4. I can mark on my pricking before I cover it. I can edit the holes (sometimes some are missing, or sometimes I want to alter an element) and I can make sure the pattern name and creator are on the piece of paper with the pinholes. I don't want to test every pen/pencil to make sure it won't smudge--I'll just grab whatever pen is handy and cover it with plastic. These reasons are just off the top of my head, late at night. There may be others that I don't remember at the moment, but those are probably minor reasons anyway. Robin P. Los Angeles, California, USA robinl...@socal.rr.com Parvum leve mentes capiunt (Little things amuse little minds) - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Symbols on lace prickings
Following Jane's question about rose ground. Another thought has come to me.We all know the most common symbols for features of, a dot in the centre of a space for a tally or a mayflower, a diamond for Roseground, a circle for honeycomb etc., but I wondered if anyone had their own favourite symbols on prickings to show various different features. I know that Alex Stillwell's book Lace Dictionary shows several variations I wondered if there were any others which have not yet been recorded. Maureen East Yorks UK - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Symbols on lace prickings
I always mark in the crosses at the corners of Roseground. It makes it easier to avoid taking the wrong pairs in at the corners (particularly where beginners are concerned) and for visualising the pattern. In message 002d01cf9cdf$ea1b9530$be52bf90$@roger.karoo.co.uk, Maureen maur...@roger.karoo.co.uk writes a diamond for Roseground, a circle for honeycomb etc., but I wondered if anyone had their own favourite symbols on prickings to show various different features. -- Jane Partridge - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Copying lace prickings
One thing the discussions of this - using heelball, pricking through original prickings etc - makes very clear that the photocopiers we now take for granted are a very modern invention, and most of us can remember when they were unreliable - distorted, shrunk patterns on odd shiney paper that disappeared after a while in sunlight. This I think is yet another thing we need to bear in mind when considering how lacemakers of old worked. I started when the best way of making an accurate pricking was meant to be working on graph paper, using one and a half squares (or whatever) one way, and one the other to get a Bucks grid - and that relied on accurate graph paper, and indeed cheap paper, itself not available in the early days of lacemaking. With all these problems in reproducing patterns, freehand lace may well have continued longer and into more elaborate patterns than we consider practical, and to me, it seems quite unlikely that working diagrams or similar would be readily available when the workers would have found it hard enough to get accurate patterns; a piece of worked lace would probably be the most practical way of letting someone know what to produce. It would be fascinating to know how the designs were first turned into lace, and what knowledge the designer, pricker and maker had of each others' skills. leonard...@yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] prickings
Hi Arachnids When I learned patterned drafting with Pam Nottingham she reprimanded me when I was drawing the guidelines in pen. She told me to ALWAYS draw in pencil first in case you make a mistake and you can correct it easily at this stage. Then trace over it in ink and, when the ink is dry, erase all the pencil lines that could otherwise transfer to the lace and soil it. I have gratefully followed her advice ever since. I wonder where you got your heelball Maureen. Was it part of that box I got from my local shoe mender? It was his last one tucked right at the back of the shelf. Happy lacemaking Alex - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] prickings
Hi I probably got my heelball from you, have had it since I lived in Essex. Just got back from a day of demonstrating lace in our local garden centre which is based in an old commercial greenhouse. Well I didn't do a lot of lace but several kids went home with fish. It was not as hot as last time either, which was in the middle of a heat wave in July. Am back there tomorrow. Feet ache though!! There was a tame robin who kept coming to see what we were doing and kept landing on the artificial trees above us which have artificial snow on them and the snow is now on the table. Festive. Maureen E Yorks UK - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] prickings
i found many years ago while demonstrating that if i put my feet up on a flat brick, that little bit saved not only my feet but my lower back too. it is tense work sharing our lovelies. because of the weight, i didn't want to carry 2 bricks with me so i got styrofoam and used that. you can cover the pieces (one for each foot - or one longer one) but the damp from the ground makes it look tacky. one old timer saw this and made little foot stools for each of us demonstrating and while a bit heavier, blends great with our costumes of being pioneer women/men. i am sure you can look around and find something to help ease your later aches. i never feel the pain until afterwards because it is too much fun. now i don't have to be concerned and with my tripod table, piano stool with a full back, my tote with my pillow and supplies (including my little stool), i go and come home having not only the pleasure of the day but the glow afterwards for the benefits sharing always grants me. Happy lacing. Hugs, Lin and the Mali *I just realized I am so old, I have forgotten I have been there and done that.* - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] History and Conservation - Lace Prickings Past Present
I can remember those days as well. My first lace teacher used to have the lace patterns which we pricked through them, there were no instructions, no technical drawings and sometimes not even a sample of the lace to look at. Those were the days before Pamela Nottingham books, my first lace book was Maidment. But you quickly learnt to read the pricking. Then I went to a teacher who taught me to draw out patterns on graph paper and never looked back. I Even have some heelball in a box somewhere. Maureen E Yorks UK - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
RE: [lace] History and Conservation - Lace Prickings Past Present
Geesh Maureen Had to look up what heelball is! You taught me something today. Agnes Boddington - Elloughton UK Then I went to a teacher who taught me to draw out patterns on graph paper and never looked back. I Even have some heelball in a box somewhere. Maureen E Yorks UK - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/ - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Prickings
I also started my lacemaking (in 1970) with pre-prepared prickings on glazed card. These were sometimes bought, or made by pricking very carefully and accurately through another pricking. The books I started with were Maidment, and Mincoff and Marriage. Then came new books by Doreen Wright and Pam Nottingham, and I learned how to chart patterns on graph paper, or to photocopy them from a book. At first the chart or photocopy was pinned onto glazed card and pricked through. Markings were added with a fine Indian Ink pen. I first went to a class with Marjory Carter in 1980 and I can remember how very particular she was about making an accurate pricking. I can't remember when I first used blue film over a photocopy, but it made life so much simpler! All the markings were clearly visible, no need to draw them in. I sometimes stuck the photocopy onto thick paper before covering it, and it was then necessary to prick first, before using the pattern. But if I wanted a quick fix and was planning only to use the pricking once, I didn't bother - I just pinned the covered photocopy onto the pillow and pricked as I went. Nowadays, I still sometimes design a pattern on graph paper, and then I usually prick through onto card. So I use both methods, ancient and modern. I have two parchment prickings. One is a narrow Bucks point fan edging. The other is a 2.5inch wide Bedfordshire edging which has line end pieces sewn on - I have forgotten what they are called. Both prickings have been tightly rolled, and I have wondered whether they could ever be unrolled and used. I imagine that the parchment would have to be treated in some way to soften it. Kathleen In sunny and cold Berkshire, UK - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Prickings
Sorry - that should be linen ends, not line ends! Kathleen - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] RE: History and Conservation - Lace Prickings Past Present
Yes, Devon, I am young enough (old enough? :-) ) to remember pre-blue film days. I still have some of my early prickings that were done on blue cardboard (maybe it's the glazed kind that someone - Mary Carey maybe? - referred to a couple of days ago). One side of the card has a 'matte' finish and the other side has a smoother, glossier finish. A pattern was traced with 'tracing' paper (think like baking parchment, but a little lighter in weight), laid over the card, wrapping the edges and held with paper clips or bulldog clips, and then one went to work with the pricker, and pricked each pinhole, followed by hand marking the lines with an indelible fine tip marker. And that's how I learnt my lacemaking from Mum, in late 1976, as she retaught herself from Margaret Hamer's little books and Miss Channer's PG book. She then found classes locally taught by the wonderful Margaret Cardinaletti, and the rest is history. Seems like I started to use the copier onto cardstock in the late 1980's. The research facility had it's own print shop, and they were very kind to give me offcuts of cardstock from report covers, and I also saved covers from library bibliography lists that came in and were about to be discarded, once we'd used them. I still have a few A4 sheets left in various colours and good weight for pricking card. I've found that the blue film is nice to use if I'm using a white thread, but I'm deciding that since it's so hard to find now, I'm just going to go for coloured cardstock, and use clear film on the pricking if it's one that the cardstock is a little on the light side, or one that's going to get used a lot (say, yardage). There are times where the film can be of benefit - if the ink from the copier hasn't bonded correctly, it can smudge, and it would be a disaster to smudge onto one's threads. I have had some cases where the ink hasn't totally bonded to the paper and I've discovered that in advance (thankfully). A rare case, but it can happen. (and if you get photocopier ink on yourself - it's a powder - use cold water to remove, as the heat bonds it). Cheers, Helen in frosty Duvall, WA, where it's about 31F, but the sun is shining, and we had a glorious sunrise with the moon still high in the sky earlier this morning. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Prickings
When I first learned to make lace at Kempston School's evening classes, near Bedford, UK We had to first trace the pricking from the original, then prick through onto brown pricking card, mark in the relevant lines with pencil(which could be rubbed out in case of a mistake) and then go over it with ink and rub out the pencil lines. I also still have my piece of heelball for taking a rubbing of a pricking too. When I first started to teach in the early 1990's, I taught the same method, until I realised the benefit of the photocopy machine. Blue contact was cheap then so we used it to cover the white photocopy but still used pricking card underneath. Now I still recommend using glazed pricking card for a pattern that is going to be used more than once, otherwise I have learned to print onto regular coloured project card and only use clear contact if the lace is going to be starched. I still preprick a pattern to save on eye strain trying to get pins in accurately and to prevent backache trying to see where the pin-holes are. When in Malta I learned to use the blue contact with the pricking sandwiched between the blue front and the backing paper. No cardboard needed. Mind you the Maltese pillows are so hard that I never want to use one again. I still cannot bear to see lace being made on a single sheet of photocopy paper. -- Janis Savage t/a The Lace Place www.thelaceplace.co.za - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Prickings
Called 'eaches' (sp?). :) On Fri, Nov 22, 2013 at 3:31 AM, Kathleen Harris ec...@cix.co.uk wrote: ...I have forgotten what they are called Sorry - that should be linen ends, not line ends! -- Bev in Shirley BC, near Sooke on beautiful Vancouver Island, west coast of Canada - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] History and Conservation - Lace Prickings Past Present
I remember that when I first started to learn BL we were taught to prick through one card to make another. You soon learned who not to lend your prickings to! The black substance Devon referred to would be heelball, which is a mixture of wax and lamp-black (soot!), and used for polishing leather shoes or making rubbings of church brasses - that was a popular hobby in the 70s when I first started BL, and it led to a lot of brasses being damaged by over zealous rubbers. Brenda On 21 Nov 2013, at 21:44, dmt11h...@aol.com wrote: Surely others recall the pre-blue film days? Brenda in Allhallows www.brendapaternoster.co.uk - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] ...Lace Prickings Past Present/blue film
Hello Devon and everyone Maybe it was in the late 1990's that I first heard of covering a pricking with blue film, was it from another lacemaker, could even have been on Arachne?! When I bought a lace kit from Pussy Willow Lace Supplies, about 1990, the pricking was on blue card. The prickings in the nice little kits from Springett were on coloured card also. My first and only lace teacher (1986) gave us the patterns, photocopied on plain white paper from a photocopy done with heat-transfer paper of the hand-drawn original. The copied copies had charming residual splotches captured by the most recent photocopy lens, surrounding the lines of the pattern. We didn't cover the prickings. I still have them, in a binder. In my how-to book of the time, and some time after, Pam Nottingham's Bobbin Lace Making, she instructs us to draw in any markings using a pencil, on to the pricked card (thick brown glazed card 'from suppliers' or dark coloured manilla card that I suppose one would have around), and mark them in permanently with India ink - not a ballpoint pen which ink would discolour the thread. No mention of covering the pricking with film. On Thu, Nov 21, 2013 at 1:44 PM, dmt11h...@aol.com wrote: Surely others recall the pre-blue film days? -- Bev in Shirley BC, near Sooke on beautiful Vancouver Island, west coast of Canada - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] History and Conservation - Lace Prickings Past Present
It was definitely the photocopy machine that led to the adoption of blue film. When I started taking lace lessons in 1971 my teacher pricked the prickings. She would draw them on graph paper because it is more accurate to prick the intersection of two lines, than a dot. Then she would prick through several layers of a brown card on a surface of piano felt. She also had a diagram which she had copied using pencil and tracing paper from some master diagram and colored with fine felt tipped pens. Then she would wrap the tracing paper around a piece of white cardboard to make an immaculate little diagram. I believe it was originally standard practice to give the diagram to the student to trace on tracing paper, etc., but it being 1971 and the library being equipped with a xerox machine that made copies on awful clay covered paper, she suggested that I photocopy the diagram and then color it with pens. I still have some of these relics of a bygone era of photocopying. The entire process was so labor intensive that I can remember now where I was when I first saw someone whip out some blue film and put it on a pattern. It was after my daughter was born in 1985, but before she started school, and my husband let me take an evening lace class once a week while he watched the baby. It was somewhat revolutionary in that prior to that I had to buy the prickings or else try to find a source for piano felt. I have often seen quite identical looking patterns to the ones produced by my teacher in bins of old patterns in lace communities, usually dark tan, as hers were. So, I don't know if that was because the dark tan was considered the best for the eyes, or was the most widely available. I don't know when people stopped using vellum. I suspect it may have persisted longer in needle lace than in bobbin lace. I have always been a little bit suspicious that the Ipswich lace pillows were redone, if not actually made new during the fever of excitement that occurred during the US centennial in 1876. A lace pillow that doesn't show a lace in process is not much of an exhibit item, so it would make sense to set it up in order to provide the teaching experience of seeing what lace making as it was practiced in Ipswich looked like. So, they may be more indicative of the lace practices of the 1870s, than of the 18th century. Of course there are many stories of people using some kind of black substance (related to shoe maintenance?) to transfer a pricked pattern from one pricking to another piece of card when the first was worn out. This leads inevitably to the question of what did people do with grubby, discolored lace in the olden days, and the answer was that the dealer whitened it with white lead. Unfortunately white lead tends to cause lead poisoning resulting in the conclusion that not every substance used in the 19th century was healthful, and also the conclusion that it might be a good idea to wash your hands after handling old lace. I really think it was also the classroom situation with a desire to prick and go that led to the use of the film, especially if the teacher did not want to prick all the patterns ahead of time, or for that matter carry them with her. Of course at that time it would have been impossible to transfer a pattern to a piece of card without visiting a specialty reproduction service, and most photocopying was being done in offices on white paper (often at the boss's expense :-)). We didn't have home printers. If you were going to prick a pattern at home, in its entirely, before starting it, you might as well afix the photocopy to the card with pins and prick though, although you would still have to add any construction detail lines, like gimp by hand, which was a bother. My first teacher persisted in doing things the traditional way and was porting her entire inventory of prickings in multiple suitcases when I took a class with her around 1990, at a local museum. But she was very unusual in that regard. Surely others recall the pre-blue film days? Devon - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] History and Conservation - Lace Prickings Past Present
Well, we have covered the Blue Film (and alternatives) subject to death, so I thought to look at some of my bobbin lace books for photos of old and not-so-old lace makers and lace pillows for a sense of history and with a sense of present-day conservation experience. For centuries, lace makers did very well without modern lighting, and used acid-free card prickings. I noticed in one early Springett book that she recommended the film for protecting thread from ink dyes when a pricking was marked. In this case, she did not mention vision and color contrast. The lace makers in old photos are often quite advanced in years, yet managed to see without much contrast between card and thread color. They used naked card prickings! See prickings on antique and post-World War 2 pillows: 1. Luxton's Honiton Lace book jackets (3) 2. Nottingham's Bucks and Bobbin Lace book jackets (4) 3. Skovgaard's Tonder Lace book jacket 4. Stott's Bucks Point Lace book jacket 5. Raffel's Laces of Ipswich book jacket and inside text, and many more books. Pillows with intact antique card prickings have survived in collections and museums. You can see more in lace maker post cards from European nations and in Lace Guild magazine articles. They do not have film on prickings before World War 2. For a museum lace exhibition I curated over 25 years ago, I borrowed some 19th C. dark green velum prickings from an old lace collection. I would be surprised if the orange card prickings were in use in the 19th C. If a pricking is attached to an antique pillow being offered on eBay, it is a piece of card. Many times I have cautioned against using Scotch tape, adhesives, and glues on all laces (even lace ID scrapbooks), because they off-gas fumes. Some lace makers leave pillows idle for long periods of time, and should be aware of this. Off-gasing is in the form of chemical fumes which can affect thread color and strength and leave permanent stains. Anything sticky is bad - microcosms may feed on substances in the adhesive. They leave stains. Think of what has happened to your old Scotch-tape-mended correspondence, photo and scrap albums when non-archival products were used.. Also, there is the transfer of sticky to lace pins, and maybe thread. A nuisance to remove, if even possible (from the thread). Since 21st C. lacemakers rarely re-use a pricking, why not make one of a dye-fast heavy paper that you prick, and pin the paper pattern instructions to the side of a roller pillow, or prop on a small easel? Pre-World War 1 lace makers did not incur any unnecessary expense when making lace to earn their bread and butter! I am beginning to think that someone of influence 45 years ago, when lace books with patterns first began to be widely published, dreamt this up. The idea spread, and now everyone thinks it is necessary. Devon gave us a very clear memo about using heavy colored paper or card stock for prickings. I took a sheet of Staples acid-free lightish blue 67 lb. cover stock, laid it on my kitchen counter, laid a piece of white DMC embroidery floss (very absorbent) on the paper, wet 2 sheets of acid-free Bounty paper towels and laid them on top, slopped more water on, and weighted with a cutting board. I went back later, and the thread was still white. We can test in our home laboratories. Again, I suggest you think of the consequences when you use lace supplies and methods not used in the 16th to 20th centuries. There were many thousands more lace makers than today. They would have used acid-free card made from old rags, not tree pulp. They would have experimented to find the most efficient and safe ways to make lace. Are some of these new practices really necessary? Please save in your Conservation binder. Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Subject: Re: [lace] prickings
Read the posts about storing used prickings. Lots of good information. I, too, like to keep them in the book the pattern came from if possible. I keep them in plastic page protectors...cut to fit the book if need be...keeps them from falling out when you open the book. I've found out the hard way that the ink from regular ball point pens like Bic tends to fade as the years go by so I make notes in an indelible ink...a Pentel brand Onyx pen is a good one...fine lines and inexpensive. If you're going to make any markings on the pricking before you cover it with clear contact film, a pencil works well. Inks of all kinds seem to bleed into the contact film after a while. BTW...if you use the plastic page protectors to store your notes and prickings, make sure they're made of polypropylene, which is chemically inert. Peg in Fairview Park OH USA...not too far from the shores of Lake Erie - Original Message - From: lace-digest owner-lace-dig...@arachne.com To: lace-dig...@lists.panix.com Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2011 12:15 PM Subject: lace-digest V2010 #431 - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
Re: Subject: Re: [lace] prickings
Peg, A suggestion re using pens, etc., may I suggest you invest in some lignin free pens. You can get them in the scrapbook section of Michaels or Hobby Lobby. They work great have no acid properties on them as regular pens have. Sallie in Wyoming Sent from my iPhone Thanks, Sallie. It's good to know where to get those kind of pens other than a place that sells mail order archival supplies. I'll have to check out Michaels this weekend. Peg in Ohio - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
[lace] prickings
Jenny I use a variant of the last option you mentionned for storing prickings, diagrams and such. But I sort them out by structural type rather than trying to keep a libtrary like system (what you descirbed seemed to have such elements). So: torchon, Beds, Cluny, Russian tape, Cantu, etc. The really large ones are stored in artist's portfolios. Back in the 80s one could buy large cardboard folders at art supply stores for keeping artwork flat and safe. They came as large as 24 x 30 inches. They have cloth tabs that fold over to keep dust out of the inside, and little tapes to tie the front to the back so all the papers won't slither out. I've noticed that a lot of art supplies that used to be easily available just don't exist any more. I suppose the age of computer art has destroyed all the felt markers, colored plastic sticky film. But there are still people who use actual paints, aren't there? And they still need to store their artwork flat. I then store this portfolio flat on a shelf in my pillow keeper cupboard. Lorelei - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
Re: [lace] prickings
Lorelei Halley lhal...@bytemeusa.com wrote: I've noticed that a lot of art supplies that used to be easily available just don't exist any more. I suppose the age of computer art has destroyed all the felt markers, colored plastic sticky film. But there are still people who use actual paints, aren't there? There are still art stores, such as Dick Blick and William Smith. There are also many online sources for markers, colored pencils, technical pens, portfolios, etc. That stuff is also often available in Office Supply stores and even JoAnne's and Michael's craft stores. [All of these are US places, sorry I don't know the international market.] Drawing painting, like making lace, is not a lost art. Robin P. robinl...@socal.rr.com Los Angeles, California, USA - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
Re: [lace] Prickings
Dear Alice and other Friends, Many thanks for this interesting email. I too use paper prickings with plastic contact covering. However, I very rarely use the same one twice. I've always meant to make a folder for these finished prickings, but at present they are all in a drawer. I do make a point of writing on the back of each one: the date started and finished; the threads used; and if I remember, who it was for. For an edging, the thought process needs to be a bit different. The easy way to do a long edging is with a roller pillow. In this case, there is a relatively short pattern around the roller that is used repeatedly for the length of the edging. I am currently working on a long length of fairly wide Toender lace which is to be exhibited later this year in the Geelong annual scarf show. Now I hadn't used a roller pillow in years and had to resort to my very tatty 1903 Princess Pillow, which I've always hated. So far it's doing the job well (about 3 completed in 2 days). But I can foresee a problem. The repeat of the pricking itself was too long to wrap round the roller, so I have joined about 4 A4 pages length together and this is currently hanging out the back of the pillow. My question is: how can I guarantee that the pricking will remain in a straight line??? I can envisage it oh so slowly wandering over to one side. Any helpful hints greatly appreciated. David in Ballarat - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com
Re: [lace] Prickings
If you have cut the edges of the pricking parallel to the pricking, perhaps you could wrap a tape or ribbon around the roller at the edge of the pricking as to act as tramlines; as you work you just need to keep the pricking sitting squarely between them and do tiny tweaks as necessary. Obviously it is a good idea to make sure that you have started with your pricking absolutely parallel to the edge of the roller. After that, I find it helps to put a pin or two in as low down on the front of roller as I can get, to make sure it is feeding straight, and if it's moving sideways a little this is where you can tweak it; pin in several places across the pricking to move it back to straight. A tiny amount of ease just sort of works in, but if it is more than a a millimetre, you maybe need to straighten it back up over two or three sections. I never pad the roller to fit the pricking, so nearly always have a loop of pricking hanging below the roller - I don't see that your long straight feed should cause any more difficulty. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com
Re: [lace] Prickings
I will admit I've never been patient enough to get up and find a ruler and measure a set distance from the side of the roller to the footside. I've always been to keen to get the pricking on the pillow and get started, and found that just eye-balling it isn't completely reliable, and the pricking does wander diagonally. Fortunately this has never yet been disastrous enough to need to remove all the pins and re-pin! However I suspect that starting off by pinning the pricking at a measured even distance from the edge of the roller around as much of the length of the roller as you can fit the pricking would probably help a lot! Sue For an edging, the thought process needs to be a bit different. The easy way to do a long edging is with a roller pillow. In this case, there is a relatively short pattern around the roller that is used repeatedly for the length of the edging. foresee a problem. The repeat of the pricking itself was too long to wrap round the roller, so I have joined about 4 A4 pages length together and this is currently hanging out the back of the pillow. My question is: how can I guarantee that the pricking will remain in a straight line??? I can envisage it oh so slowly wandering over to one side. Any helpful hints greatly appreciated. David in Ballarat - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com
RE: [lace] Prickings
Dear Charlotte and other kind Helpers, I tried using pins along the sides to keep the pricking in place and as I recall that helped some. But basically I would have to lift the pricking, lace and pins and move them back into position. I couldn't stand to have to do that. There are 90 pairs of bobbins in this piece and I keep the pins in for at least 1. IF I did end up having to lift the entire work, I imagine I'd have to remove as many pins as possible and leave just 2 or 3 rows deep from the front. Is that correct? Let's hope it doesn't come to this David in Ballarat - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com
Re: [lace] Prickings
No you'd have to put back in more pins than just 2 or 3 rows deep from the front. I forget what lace this is (I am thinking Tonder) but I think you would need most of your inch of pins back in the lace or you are running the risk of gathering it. And, of course, the footsides would need pins going even further back along the pattern Sue - Original Message - From: David C COLLYER dccoll...@ncable.net.au To: Charlotte Moore nhsmo...@cox.net; lace@arachne.com Sent: Thursday, January 06, 2011 8:05 AM Subject: RE: [lace] Prickings I couldn't stand to have to do that. There are 90 pairs of bobbins in this piece and I keep the pins in for at least 1. IF I did end up having to lift the entire work, I imagine I'd have to remove as many pins as possible and leave just 2 or 3 rows deep from the front. Is that correct? - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com
Re: [lace] Prickings
David, You have enough pattern hanging off the back of the roller to reach back, match up the top and bottom sections of the pricking and hold the two together when you are ready to roll up your work. Pull firmly in place and pin the next inch or two of the pricking (depending on your roller size. By lining up the pricking every time, it will stay straight. My pattern freguently 'travel' a bit on a roller but I've never found it a problem. Just tweak the next section back the way you want it to go and pin. Narrow patterns can be tweaked easily. A very wide pattern could need the full 'remove lace and reset pattern' procedure. It's a nuisance but only takes ten minutes. Unpinning and repinning goes faster than one would guess. Happy lacing, Alice in Oregon ... off to lace meeting today. - Original Message - I am currently working on a long length of fairly wide Toender lace which is to be exhibited later this year in the Geelong annual scarf show. Now I hadn't used a roller pillow in years and had to resort to my very tatty 1903 Princess Pillow, which I've always hated. So far it's doing the job well (about 3 completed in 2 days). But I can foresee a problem. The repeat of the pricking itself was too long to wrap round the roller, so I have joined about 4 A4 pages length together and this is currently hanging out the back of the pillow. My question is: how can I guarantee that the pricking will remain in a straight line??? I can envisage it oh so slowly wandering over to one side. Any helpful hints greatly appreciated. David in Ballarat - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com
[lace] lace prickings
David When I have an edging pattern where the repeats don't fit right on the roller I pad the roller with several layers of wool to make its diameter larger. Of course there are limits to this. The limiting factor is the depth of the box the roller sits in -- how much clearance there is under the roller. Lorelei - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com
Re: [lace] lace prickings
Lorelei Halley wrote When I have an edging pattern where the repeats don't fit right on the roller I pad the roller with several layers of wool to make its diameter larger When I'm using my roller pillow it is because I'm making a long length. In my opinion it is better to have the pattern a little larger than the roller so that as you go over and over the pattern the pin holes are not always in the same place. If the roller is padded to make the pattern fit snuggly round the roller then the pins are always going in to the same hole. Possibly not a problem with a straw filled roller, but with a foam roller it will break down if a long length is made. Malvary in Ottawa, Canada where we are forecast to get 5-10cm of snow over night. The skiers will be happy as we lost a lot of snow cover last week. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com
[lace] lace prickings
Malvary Two of my roller pillows have rollers wrapped tightly with wool cloth, so sticking the pins into the same spot doesn't damage anything. But one of my pillows has a polyethylene (Ethafoam) roller, so that ones doesn't present a real problem either. I hadn't thought about the issue of what the roller is made of. For me it isn't, but now that you mention it, I see that it might be for others. Lorelei - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com
[lace] lace prickings
David, if you have to remove and re-pin make yourself a felt pad that becomes larger in the centre than at the front and back edges, then work onto it (tuck it up under your pricking) You can them remove the lace, pins and all, and straighten it up on the roller, push down some of the pins, and gradually work off the pad, back onto the roller. I made a length of lace with the pattern hanging out the back, - and started getting it all working to one side. I managed to tweak it reasonably straight, and completed the piece before I ran out of sideways roller!! Regards from Liz in Hot Melbourne, Oz. lizl...@bigpond.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com
Re: [lace] Prickings
The modern lacemaker seems to do a wide variety of patterns rather than concentrating on just a few for her lifetime. If a pattern is going to be used only once, there's little concern that the pricking will endure. However, I have found that I will repeat some patterns several times, or many times, if I particularly like it. I have at least three patterns that I keep returning to, and have made as many as 30+ times. Since I tend to use a paper pattern on file folder and covered with plastic film, I can use a pricking 8 or 10 times before it becomes ragged. I have remade prickings several times on those favorite patterns. This is for smaller patterns like bookmarks or ornaments. For an edging, the thought process needs to be a bit different. The easy way to do a long edging is with a roller pillow. In this case, there is a relatively short pattern around the roller that is used repeatedly for the length of the edging. The paper/folder/film sandwich has been known to break down before completing a long edging. This is more like repeating a pricking 100+ times so should be more sturdily constructed, or replaced when it shows wear. I have made edgings with two short sections of the pattern that were alternated. I could really see the wear on the pattern pieces as I progressed. I can usually do two or three yards on the pattern. If I had gone further, I would have had to remake the prickings. I have one friend who uses just the paper pattern for a small, quick project. She doesn't make it sturdy unless it's going to be used more than once. She does beautiful work so it seems to work with her. I want something a bit thicker, even for a small quickie. My prickings are usually saved cause I never know when I may want to do the project again. I do admit to needing a better system of storing these prickings. I started putting them in three ring notebooks with plastic sheet protector pockets. The notebooks were divided by the type of lace. Sometimes I put the pricking in the book the pattern came from. However...there's this stack of prickings that didn't get put anywhere. Maybe I need a private secretary to do these things so I can just make lace. G Alice in Oregon .. on a very cold morning with icy streets, but it's supposed to warm up soon. - Original Message - I would like my prickings be to retained on quality stock and not only endure, but increase my ability to use them more than once for myself, though I don't know how many really go back and rework a pricking in their lifetime? - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com
[lace] prickings/needlelace
Janice Blair wrote: The pattern was drawn on the plastic and then placed down on the felt so the ink would not come off on the threads. We were not working on any type of pillow and the plastic gave the work some stability. My piece is finished and framed! It may not be the best tensionwise, but I was happy with the effect. Now I am working on a heart pattern I bought at convention and looking for other ones to try. Hi Janice I don't use Architect's linen myself but a dark blue matt sticky backed plastic, as the majority of my work is in white and using very fine threads. I find the architect's linen does not give a great enough contrast for working with these fine white threads but the dark blue is so much better. However, if one is using coloured or thicker threads, then it's great! I don't use a pillow either but hold the work in my hand, but do use a pillow when working a piece of Venetian Gros Point, as it essential to have one hand free to manipulate the sometimes large bundle of threads required for the padding. You may like to see my 'Parasol for Iris' on the Guild of Needlelaces web site. Click on 'Gallery' at the top, then Catherine Barley and you will see a small selection of my work. Click on individual pictures to enlarge - 'Parasol for Iris' is the first image and I had some multi-purpose greeting cards printed of the parasol which with the help of colleagues/friends I was able to raise £1,512.00GBP ($2,440.33USD - 2,936.20AUD) which I sent earlier this year to Breast Cancer Research. Iris was a student of mine who over the years became a very dear friend but sadly died of breast cancer and this little antique parasol originally belonged to her. When she passed away, I asked if I might have it and complete the parasol for her but the work of two different hands was so evident that I decided to start from scratch with a design of my own and here you see the result of six years work from the initial design process to the completed parasol. To read more about the parasol click on 'click here' towards the bottom of the page. Catherine Barley Henley-on-Thames. UK http://www.guildofneedlelaces.org/ - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] prickings/needlelace
Dear All I also use architects linen where I can when I work needlelace but agree with Catherine that architects linen is very pale. I had a reasonable store of this as I worked in a solicitors office and they used to use it for the plans on legal documents but now that everything is computerised they no longer have the linen. Other than this I use the sticky backed plastic which is either dark green or a darkish blue which does, in my view, work just as well.But it is a case of what works for you is best and as long as the lace looks good then the ends often justifies the means!!! The most important thing to do is to enjoy what you do. I do generally work on a pillow for my needlelace. For me it works very well but I have worked it in my hand but again it is a case of what suits you best. As for the Parasol for Iris that Catherine has worked, it is wonderful. Apart from the Lace Day for the GofN do you teach any courses nowadays Catherine? Maureen East Yorkshire (where it is sunny/cloudy but dry, for the moment) No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.409 / Virus Database: 270.13.73/2338 - Release Date: 08/31/09 17:52:00 - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] prickings/needlelace
Catherine wrote: I have been given to understand that computers have now replaced the need for Architect's linen but anyone you know who makes needlelace would be most grateful to receive some. I am not sure if I have seen Architects linen, but this summer I took my first ever needlelace class with Nancy Evans. She had thoughtfully prepared the patterns for us and they were made up of a folded piece of soft felt and covered with a stiffish plastic sheet which was thicker than plastic bags but I don't know the mm size. The pattern was drawn on the plastic and then placed down on the felt so the ink would not come off on the threads. We were not working on any type of pillow and the plastic gave the work some stability. My piece is finished and framed! It may not be the best tensionwise, but I was happy with the effect. Now I am working on a heart pattern I bought at convention and looking for other ones to try. Janice Janice Blair Crystal Lake, 50 miles northwest of Chicago, Illinois, USA where it was nice and sunny today. www.jblace.com http://www.lacemakersofillinois.org - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Re: Ipswich lace prickings
She doesn't have a book, but Karen Thompson has been reproducing the Ipswich patterns from the lace samples in the Library of Congress. I've purchased about 6 or 8 different patterns from her. Karen is listed in the IOLI directory, has written several articles for Piecework magazine, and I think she's on this list. Diane Williams drswilli...@yahoo.com Galena Illinois USA My blog - http://dianelaces.wordpress.com/ From: Tamara P Duvall t...@rockbridge.net To: Lace Arachne lace@arachne.com Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2009 10:43:18 PM Subject: [lace] Re: Ipswich lace prickings On May 12, 2009, at 18:20, Elise Hays wrote: I have the book The Laces of Ipswich by Marta Cotterell Raffel on order, but from what I can gather it is more of a history and has no patterns. It does have some patterns in it; 6, to be precise. As far as I know, it's the only book that has ever attempted the reproduction of the Ipswich lace. -- Tamara P Duvall http://t-n-lace.net/ Lexington, Virginia, USA (Formerly of Warsaw, Poland) - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Ipswich lace prickings
Dear Arachnids, Elise lives near me. I'm able to take care of her questions. Jeri Ames Lace and Embroidery Resource Center In a message dated 5/13/2009 9:14:11 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, drswilli...@yahoo.com writes: She doesn't have a book, but Karen Thompson has been reproducing the Ipswich patterns from the lace samples in the Library of Congress. I've purchased about 6 or 8 different patterns from her. Karen is listed in the IOLI directory, has written several articles for Piecework magazine, and I think she's on this list. Diane Williams drswilli...@yahoo.com Galena Illinois USA My blog - http://dianelaces.wordpress.com/ From: Tamara P Duvall t...@rockbridge.net To: Lace Arachne lace@arachne.com Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2009 10:43:18 PM Subject: [lace] Re: Ipswich lace prickings On May 12, 2009, at 18:20, Elise Hays wrote: I have the book The Laces of Ipswich by Marta Cotterell Raffel on order, but from what I can gather it is more of a history and has no patterns. It does have some patterns in it; 6, to be precise. As far as I know, it's the only book that has ever attempted the reproduction of the Ipswich lace. -- Tamara P Duvall http://t-n-lace.net/ Lexington, Virginia, USA(Formerly of Warsaw, Poland) - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com **Dell Mini Netbooks: Great deals starting at $299 after instant savings! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221972443x1201442012/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214819441%3B36680237%3Bi) - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Re: Ipswich lace prickings
On May 13, 2009, at 11:22, jeria...@aol.com wrote: Dear Arachnids, Elise lives near me. I'm able to take care of her questions. The question was asked on the list and answered on the list. I don't see a problem with that. -- Tamara P Duvallhttp://t-n-lace.net/ Lexington, Virginia, USA (Formerly of Warsaw, Poland) - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Ipswich lace prickings
Does anyone know of a book of prickings (preferably with diagrams) for Ipswich lace? I have the book The Laces of Ipswich by Marta Cotterell Raffel on order, but from what I can gather it is more of a history and has no patterns. I know that examples of the lace and prickings exist, but I don't know if anyone has compiled them into a collection or diagramed them. I tried to contact the Ipswich museum but they are closed till Memorial Day. Anyone out there know of such a thing? Thank you! Elise - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Re: Ipswich lace prickings
On May 12, 2009, at 18:20, Elise Hays wrote: I have the book The Laces of Ipswich by Marta Cotterell Raffel on order, but from what I can gather it is more of a history and has no patterns. It does have some patterns in it; 6, to be precise. As far as I know, it's the only book that has ever attempted the reproduction of the Ipswich lace. -- Tamara P Duvallhttp://t-n-lace.net/ Lexington, Virginia, USA (Formerly of Warsaw, Poland) - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Prickings and pillows....
Michele Griffin motherch...@gci.net wrote: what is a good, inexpensive pillow for teaching a new person and for someone that can't afford to go pillow comparison shopping. All of our lace purchases (save thread) are made onlineso links would be great too. - Hey, don't go back to lurking. Stay and chat awhile! Anyway, the best deal I know of for beginners in the US is Snowgoose, in Colorado. They have the one and only, which is a kit. It has an ethafoam disk with rounded outer corners and a recangular hole in the center, plus round cardboard to glue it to, foam-core to line the hole, and square and rectangular blocks and a cylinder to use in various combinations in the hole. You cover it yourself and glue the foam core and cardboard to the ethafoam, and voila! you have a block pillow *and* a roller pillow, all for USD30 (last time I checked, which was a couple of years ago). The pillow is perfectly serviceable, although not a work of art (depending on what fabric you choose, of course!). The only drawback, IMO, is that it is rather light-weight and prone to slide toward you when tensioning. I use a pillow stand with a stop on the front, so that's not a problem for me. Some people consider it a drawback that you have to cover it yourself, but I know people who never covered theirs. I cut mine in half before covering, so that I can fold it to pack in a suitcase. I could never do that with an expensive pillow! The Snowgoose home page is http://www.snowgoose.cc/ and I've been quite happy with the service. If you want *really* cheap, you can make your own pillow from a block of industrial insulation (the blue stuff). Padding with a couple of layers of felted wool (like an army blanket) or craft fleece (sold alongside quilt batting but not nearly so thick) is an excellent idea, but not crucial. I've known people who started with a large block of packing styrofoam, but I don't recommend it. Not only doesn't it hold the pins all that well, it squeeks a lot and quickly breaks down, shedding those tiny foam balls that it's made of. just my opinions, of course Robin P. Los Angeles, California, USA - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Prickings and pillows (2)....
Clay Blackwell clayblackw...@comcast.net wrote: Assuming you only work one piece at a time, this pillow will serve you for almost anything you want to make. (But... in honesty, only working one piece at a time is way more disciplined than most of us want to be!!) Ah, but Clay, you can have a second project going on one of the extra blocks! One of the things I like about the OO (like other block pillows) is being able to swap out blocks to change projects (like at convention, to take two BL classes but travel with only one pillow). When I was doing Rosa Libre pieces, comprising flower plus leaves plus dragonfly, I had each pricking on a separate block and started the second component while the first was still in pins. Robin P. Los Angeles, California, USA robinl...@socal.rr.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Prickings and pillows (2)....
Yes, but to be strictly accurate, if you're using the pillow for more than one project, then you'll need to order and cover at least one extra block for each extra project!! (But... that's a pittance, compared to buying another pillow!!) Also, I've known people who headed off the light-weight issue by mounting their OO on a 1/2 plywood base before covering it. This makes it quite a bit heavier. However, it's not quite as travel-friendly then. Clay robinl...@socal.rr.com wrote: Clay Blackwell clayblackw...@comcast.net wrote: Assuming you only work one piece at a time, this pillow will serve you for almost anything you want to make. (But... in honesty, only working one piece at a time is way more disciplined than most of us want to be!!) Ah, but Clay, you can have a second project going on one of the extra blocks! One of the things I like about the OO (like other block pillows) is being able to swap out blocks to change projects (like at convention, to take two BL classes but travel with only one pillow). When I was doing Rosa Libre pieces, comprising flower plus leaves plus dragonfly, I had each pricking on a separate block and started the second component while the first was still in pins. Robin P. Los Angeles, California, USA robinl...@socal.rr.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Prickings and pillows....One and Only
I have a One and Only that I got soon after learning BL and it's been in almost constant use for 15 years. None of the blocks have needed replaced yet. I also have a second one (which a friend is currently using) and plan to cover a third one which I won't lend out. G I put a circle of felt on the bottom of mine to offset the slippery bottom problem. With several of my pillows, I carry a square of rubber shelf padding to put under them when in use. The OO's 20 width is my favorite size for most projects. For transport in a suitcase, I cut 2.5 inches off the top of the pillow (making it D shaped). It fits in an 18 width suitcase that way. This section of the pillow at the top is not really used, anyway, and the resulting pillow is very attractive.Buy an extra block or two when getting the kit so blocks can be changed out when taking more than one class at a conference. One hint...for anyone covering an OO: Cut a finger hole under one of the blocks through the cardboard backing. The blocks fit tightly and a hole aids tremendously in removing a block from the pillow. The OO pillow is great for projects less than 4.5 inches wide since the blocks are 5 blocks. It would be good for a lacemaker to also have a basic cookie pillow, perhaps 22-24 size, for circular projects more than 4.5 inches wide. This basic pillow could be made from insulation board inexpensively. Alice in Oregon -- with 12-14 inches of snow on the ground and predictions of 4 more days of snow before it warms up. This is the most snow I've seen on the ground at one time in the 36 years I've lived here. I alternate sweeping/shoveling snow, making cookies and etc in the kitchen, and finishing lace projects. 3 done and another getting close. I'm planning my next projects as I finish the ones that are waiting. - Original Message From: robinl...@socal.rr.com robinl...@socal.rr.com To: Arachne lace@arachne.com The [One and On;y] pillow is perfectly serviceable, although not a work of art (depending on what fabric you choose, of course!). The only drawback, IMO, is that it is rather light-weight and prone to slide toward you when tensioning. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Prickings online? WOW
Thank you everyone, on- and off-line. An embarrassment of choice. This was the most ridiculous situation and you've helped me avoid embarrassment. Three chairs for Arachne! Sr. Claire On Sat, Nov 1, 2008 at 8:35 AM, Sister Claire [EMAIL PROTECTED]wrote: Hi all, I've got myself in a terrible pickle and I have to make a meter of Torchon edging... tonight! I don't have any pattern on hand. Does anyone know where on line I could find a Torchon edging either for free download or that I could pay for with Visa or PayPal and dowload right away? - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] prickings
I went on a course recently with Christine Springett. Before the course, I received a questionaire, asking about my skills in lacemaking, and Bedfordshire lace in particular. She then send a sheet with her own patterns on it, suggesting the ones suitable for me. I was asked to prepare a pricking of a couple of these, and possibly the next level of difficulty up, in case I finished the first ones very quickly. Agnes Boddington - Ellourghton, UK Bobbin maker - will ship worldwide - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Prickings for workshops
This is an exception, I'm quite sure, but Gunvor Jorgenson, who teaches Tonder lace, comes to class with prickings already pricked on card stock and distributes them to her students at the beginning of class! Tonder is a Danish point-ground lace, similar in some ways to Bucks, but with some very different techniques. Although Gunvor was born and grew up in Denmark, she has been in this country for many years and speaks fluent English. If you ever have a chance to take a class from her, by all means do! Barbara Joyce Snoqualmie, WA USA I've been having a discussion with some Australian lacemaking friends about whether photocopied prickings should be supplied to participants before a workshop, so that they can prepare their prickings properly before the workshop begins. Some of us have been told that this is not done by European tutors, that paper prickings are only distributed at the workshop - indeed, the last two workshops I have been to in Australia with European tutors, we were expected to just place Contact over the paper pricking and start working. I much prefer to prepare my pricking on thin board beforehand, and pre-prick. Can spiders let me know the usual practice please. Noelene in Cooma With Spring in the air, at least, even if it is still a bit chilly. [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://members.ozemail.com.au/~nlafferty/ - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Prickings for workshops
From: Noelene Lafferty [EMAIL PROTECTED] I've been having a discussion with some Australian lacemaking friends about whether photocopied prickings should be supplied to participants before a workshop, so that they can prepare their prickings properly before the workshop begins. In my opinion, it can depend on the lace. A coarse or simple pattern doesn't necessarily need pre-pricking anyway, or only takes a little while. The tape laces could fall into this category, or Honiton (not that it's coarse! but it takes relatively few pinholes to make a tiny motif). However, with the finer point ground laces, where there are a lot of pinholes close together, I'd sure like the pattern in advance. But then some teachers come prepared with several patterns for students to choose among, and the students need to talk to the teacher about their ability so she can steer beginners to the simpler patterns and find appropriate challenges for the more advanced. And someone who doesn't know this particular lace (after all, that's often why we take the class) may not be able to judge how difficult the pattern really is just from its pricking. It would be very hard for a teacher to send the prickings in advance so they could be pricked. Who should she send each pattern to? Robin P. Los Angeles, California, USA (formerly Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania) [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Prickings for workshops
In my experience, this varies with the teacher and the lace. At Arachne 98 conference, we met the teachers the evening before classes started and got our patterns. We were to have them pricked by the time class started. This gave a brief meeting with the teacher for choosing an appropriate pattern without using class time. Some teachers contact their students in advance of class to find out the skill level, and mail the pattern so it can be ready. Some teachers or laces don't require pricked patterns, and just ask that the students come with some cardboard and clear film to set up their pricking at the start of class. There may be some restriction if a copyrighted pattern is being used. Each class member would need to have a copy of the book in order to use the pattern. If the teacher designed the pattern, then he/she can send it out as they choose. There's probably as many variations of pattern procedure as there are teachers. Do what the teacher asks, or, if you are the teacher, do what works best for your lace. (Personal opinion, of course. G) I have a little kit of tagboard pieces, clear and blue film, pricker, permanent ink pen, highlighter and scissors that I take to class -- just in case. Alice in Oregon -- with my wedding edging just tied off and ends finished, waiting for the linen center. Best 'end to beginning' attachment I've ever done. Brag--brag--brag - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [lace] Prickings for workshops
Well, neither the Australian, nor the English tutors who visit Australia seem to have any trouble distributing patterns in advance. The complete set of pattern handouts is sent to either the Administrative Committee of the Australian Lace Guild, or the local person organising a workshop. When a lacemaker registers for the workshop, she includes a large stamped, addressed envelope for the return to her of the set of patterns. If a tutor wishes everyone in the workshop to start at the first pattern, she says so. Usually the patterns are either identified by skill-level or technique, so that the lacemaker can decide which ones she needs to prepare. Only last week I sent off multiple copies of all the patterns for three different workshops to the leader of a group, together with clear indications of the technical skills in each piece and guidance of how a student should choose which patterns to prepare. Certainly it takes a fair bit of preparation for the tutor, but it saves a lot of time in the workshop, and means the student is better prepared. Ruth Budge (Sydney, Australia) -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: 17 September 2006 10:45 To: lace@arachne.com Subject: Re: [lace] Prickings for workshops It would be very hard for a teacher to send the prickings in advance so they could be pricked. Who should she send each pattern to? Robin P. Los Angeles, California, USA (formerly Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania) [EMAIL PROTECTED] - - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Prickings for lace
At 09:27 AM 16/08/03 -0400, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi, can I suggest you are not using the right sort of blue film. The one me and my friends use is not shiny but matt and does not make your pins sticky. Dear Friends, Can I also suggest that the shiny transparent plastic we get here is less than $1 for a long roll. You can very simply make it matt by a gentle rub with a NEW dish scourer. I use it all the time - no need for any pricking at all and even though I rarely make anything twice, I do have a couple of favourites which I've made about 4 times and the pricking is still very useable. I find that the pale blue is best for white and ecru while green seems to suit black threads better. Regards David in Ballarat KEEP LACING, VIVIENNE, BIGGINS - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Prickings
An alternative method is to cut the pricking slightly smaller than the card, and take a piece of 'blue transparent film' slightly larger, and use this to attach the pricking to the card. You then have to prick all the holes, as before, but you don't have to draw any lines. The main disadvantage of this is the lack of accuracy, and the difficulty of getting the pins in (and out). I was told to do it this way and haven't had any problem with getting the pins in. As to accuracy, I'm not sure how it would be worse with this method - I just try hard to prick dead vertically. I don't have anything to prick onto yet, so I use the bottom of my polystyrene mushroom pillow. I've just bought a block pillow, and intend to use the side of the blocks to prick. I suppose I ought to go and get a polystyrene ceiling tile from BQ! Regards, Annette, London - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Prickings
Linda, Laminating - what a brilliant idea! My office has a photocopier, a lot of blue paper and a small laminator - I'm all set! Thanks for the idea. Annette, London - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Prickings for lace
In message [EMAIL PROTECTED], Milada Marshall [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes Following recent local talk about the method of doing prickings, may I ask what is your normal / preferred method? I usually use the first of Milada's two methods - although as I mostly work my own designs, I rarely use photocopies. Most of mine are pricked straight from the graph paper draft, or from a print out if I have used the computer to design the pattern (I use FastCAD - not one of the specific lace programs, simply because we already have it on the computer - it serves the purpose!). In class, if a student brings in a book from which she wishes to do a pattern, she is given the choice of either walking down to the local photocopy shop to make a photocopy, redrafting the pattern onto graph paper, (particularly if it is not a very true pattern to start with!) or tracing the pattern onto tracing paper. The pricking is then made on pricking card, the pattern markings transferred first in pencil (easier to correct if you make a mistake in copying at that stage), then drawn over with a fine, *waterproof* pen. Finally the pencil markings are erased. I (personally) mainly use one of Winslow's prickers but if using my pin vice use a size 8 Sharp/Quilters needle in it. An alternative method is to cut the pricking slightly smaller than the card, and take a piece of 'blue transparent film' slightly larger, and use this to attach the pricking to the card. You then have to prick all the holes, as before, but you don't have to draw any lines. The main disadvantage of this is the lack of accuracy, One of the main reasons I only use this method for very complex patterns (and in some methods of needlelace, though I still have some architects' linen) is that it adds to the cost of the pricking rather unnecessarily. In changing the colour of the card away from the standard manilla brown, it is more likely to blend in with the colour of thread I am using at the time (often greens and blues). I don't really see how it affects your accuracy, Milada - if you use a photocopy to produce the pricking in both methods, then accuracy is down to whether or not the photocopy is distorted, not the film covering it; and the first method leaves more room for mistake. Also, the pattern is less likely to slip if it is stuck in place! I was taught to use this latter method when I first started making lace, and in addition to using the film to hold the pattern to the card, we were taught to use a Pritt stick (solid PVA glue stick) to glue the photocopy to the card first. Of course, working Honiton patterns, you dispense with the need for ink markings altogether - pattern indications are marked by pin holes. Here I do tend to use a photocopy or tracing of the original - my present very long term project being one of Ann Orr's Quilting designs (the prick and pounce markings on the pattern sheet were usefully at the right spacing for the pinholes!). One method of copying a pattern I haven't tried is the old heel-ball method, where a rubbing is made of a pricking, and then the new pattern pricked from the rubbing. Does anyone still do this? -- Jane Partridge - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Prickings
On Sat, 16 Aug 2003 07:26:16 +0100, Annette wrote: I don't have anything to prick onto yet, so I use the bottom of my polystyrene mushroom pillow. I've just bought a block pillow, and intend to use the side of the blocks to prick. I suppose I ought to go and get a polystyrene ceiling tile from BQ! When I first started making lace I used an odd bit of polystyrene tile as a pricking board. After about a year someone persuaded me to blow an entire GBP1.50 on a cork pricking board. This is so much better to use than the tile, that you should order one Annette. Then go to Sainsburys and look for wax coated paper for baking and wrap the cork tile in the wax paper. Every time you prick the needle picks up a tiny bit of wax from the paper, making it slide more easily through the card. One wrapping of the paper lasts ages, so one roll is a lifetime's worth (well unless you use it for cooking as well). -- A liberal is a person whose interests aren't at stake at the moment. - Willis Player Steph Peters [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tatting, lace stitching page http://www.sandbenders.demon.co.uk/index.htm - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Prickings for lace
On Fri, 15 Aug 2003 16:34:04 +0100, Milada wrote: Following recent local talk about the method of doing prickings, may I ask what is your normal / preferred method? I use 2 methods, depending on whether I need to work repeats on the same pricking for that piece of lace. My choice of methods is determined by the fact that I find working on sticky plastic unpleasant. It makes the pins sticky, makes doing sewings harder and reflections from the shiny surface make it hard to see the lace in some lighting set ups. So I put a bit of effort in to prepare a pricking I find pleasant to work with. For a single use pricking I scan the pattern into the computer, adjust its size and print it on light blue 160g/square meter card. I find light blue a good colour for most of my lace, but some day soon I shall buy a pack in a darker colour as well. A pack of 100 sheets of this card from one of the office supply warehouse places is quite cheap and lasts for years. If I want to make the same pattern again I just reprint on another piece of card. This method does depend on keeping all the scans saved at the right size on the computer, and having computer backups to restore them if anything goes wrong. The card is light enough to use without pre-pricking; the pins go through it easily. As a result I can use this method for laces like Withof that don't have premarked pinholes. The possible drawback to computer printed prickings is that the ink might run if it gets wet. My laser printed prickings won't run, but test your printer because some inks will run when wet. If I'm doing an edging where I will work over the same pricking more than once then I like to preprick through brown card. The needle I use for pre-pricking has a smaller diameter than the pins for the piece. Thicker and sturdier card is better for Honiton, because the same pin comes in and out several times and the pinhole is used to make the sewing. I find glazed card is nicer to work on than unglazed. -- A liberal is a person whose interests aren't at stake at the moment. - Willis Player Steph Peters [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tatting, lace stitching page http://www.sandbenders.demon.co.uk/index.htm - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Prickings for lace
Hi, can I suggest you are not using the right sort of blue film. The one me and my friends use is not shiny but matt and does not make your pins sticky. KEEP LACING, VIVIENNE, BIGGINS - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Prickings for lace
If I'm going to use the pricking only once, I photocopy it on blue paper and iron fusible interfacing to the back. There's no need to prick and I've had good results with this easy method. Margot Walker in Halifax on the east coast of Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Prickings
At 08:32 AM 8/16/2003 +0100, you wrote: Laminating - what a brilliant idea! My office has a photocopier, a lot of blue paper and a small laminator - I'm all set! A word of caution -- there are different weights of laminating film. Be sure you have the very lightest/thinnest weight for patterns. Some of the heavier weights are very difficult to pin through. Try one and test it before making a bunch of them. For myself, I do the common paper pattern on file folder (tagboard) with a transparent adhesive film on top. The color of the adhesive film is determined by the thread color. Clear for colored threads and colored for light threads. I found colored transparent removable bookcover films in the dollar store (and stationery stores) that give me a color choice. However, since the film is removable, it does not stick permanently. The edges of the film need to be taped to the tagboard backing to be sure that they don't loosen or shift. This work fine for one-time patterns. I find that I can use these pattern 6-8 times before the holes become worn. If a pattern is needed more than that, I make another one. In fact, if I'm in production (like making a rose bouquet), I set up two patterns on two pillows and just alternate them. One can be worked on while the other is resting the completed lace. Happy lacing, Happy lacing, Alice in Oregon - Gained 2 students from county fair demo!! Oregon Country Lacemakers Arachne Secret Pal Administrator Mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Prickings
I use a cork mat, and pricking parchment that I get from lace suppliers. I have two sizes of cork mat, as it's not easy having to move large prickings halfway through. I put a photocopy of the piece on top, fixed with paper clips and use drawing pins to hold the two sheets firmly in place on the cork. I rub over the top sheet with a piece of beeswax. Wax paper is not easily available (not the same as baking parchment, which is more similar to greaseproof paper). I used to use it for making collars for royal iced cakes. Don't forget that some pieces of lace need a mirror image copy for the second half (collars and lappets particularly) . Edith North Nottinghamshire [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Prickings
The inner packet of cereal boxes used to be grease-proof paper (nice and waxy), but now they all seem to be going for foil. Jean in Poole - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
